There are way too many climbing shoes and brands and I wish there was a "softness rating" that each brand would give. I like UnParallel because their website tells you how good each shoe is for each climbing move (smearing, edging, etc) as well as the Shore-A hardness. Though they definitely oversold how good the Flagship is at those categories.
Hi im curious about your wrist wraps at 2:19 , what was the purpose of them and how did you wrap them? I had injured/overtrained wrists and found that wraps helped stability wise but caused pain as well.
Climbing shoes are honestly the only real flop in BD's entire product line. They're my go-to for about 95% of my gear. But for some reason, they just can't quite get this one thing down.
I think its a targetting issue, I think their beginner and intermediate shoes are decent but they position them at the high end (mostly talking about the focus and the zones, momentums are a pretty solid beginner shoe)
Mine do really well for heel hooks. I went with my exact shoe size i cant bend mine forward anywhere near as far as you were i think had you gotten one size down you wouldn't be feeling like they struggle with heel hooking.
I agree, pretty sure I mentioned in the video that I just totally messed up the sizing being my first "aggressive pair". I think fit wise its pretty ok, but the delamination I think is probably my biggest concern for the shoe at this point with most of the outer rubber just wavey all the way around by the end of its use.
@@davidguzman5333 Appreciate the love man, Ill try breaking them in as quick as I can.. cant give em an honest review without really trying them out for a while after all... but first impression, rubber feels nice..a bit tight (but obvious for breaking in period) heel feels a little loose but we'll see if it holds out. Again I appreciate the following =]
@@gisgier mine have loosened a bit... still far from broken in, even harder when I cant get out of my house =[ The fit is nice though, heel a bit looser than Id like...Im actually liking the fit of my hi angle pros a lot more. Bear with me though guys... I want to make sure Im able to break it in AND put them through a proper run both indoor and out to get my full opinion on it =]
The E-motion or the rave-x? personally if your on a budget I reckon butora acro is pretty value for money but happy to throw a review in for ya, though I do have the furia airs, theorys and hi angle pros in the pipeline so not entirely sure when Ill be able to get to it.
Head to decathlon, they sell climbing shoes for 60-150 depending on the model and they're a very solid shoe. Popular in Europe, pretty sure the brand Is simond
Same for me, the only shoe that really fits me. My second toe is longer and that hurts a lot on stiff toe patches (e.g. scarpa instict is pure torture for me). Hope they just keep it as it is and will produce it forever. Also the only shoe that perfectly fits my heel. So it might be a niche, but for people like us it is essential to have it.
There are way too many climbing shoes and brands and I wish there was a "softness rating" that each brand would give.
I like UnParallel because their website tells you how good each shoe is for each climbing move (smearing, edging, etc) as well as the Shore-A hardness.
Though they definitely oversold how good the Flagship is at those categories.
Hi im curious about your wrist wraps at 2:19 , what was the purpose of them and how did you wrap them? I had injured/overtrained wrists and found that wraps helped stability wise but caused pain as well.
You are my fave yt channel and i lovw ur content and love love love rockclimbinh
Wow thanks dude! Make sure to hit me up if your ever in australia for a climb
Climbing shoes are honestly the only real flop in BD's entire product line. They're my go-to for about 95% of my gear. But for some reason, they just can't quite get this one thing down.
I think its a targetting issue, I think their beginner and intermediate shoes are decent but they position them at the high end (mostly talking about the focus and the zones, momentums are a pretty solid beginner shoe)
I used to agree with this but I just got the method s and they feel like my Skwamas but more comfy and sticky
@@matthiasnm4279 Yeah, actually - their new line-up is looking pretty good compared to their old models.
Mine do really well for heel hooks. I went with my exact shoe size i cant bend mine forward anywhere near as far as you were i think had you gotten one size down you wouldn't be feeling like they struggle with heel hooking.
I agree, pretty sure I mentioned in the video that I just totally messed up the sizing being my first "aggressive pair". I think fit wise its pretty ok, but the delamination I think is probably my biggest concern for the shoe at this point with most of the outer rubber just wavey all the way around by the end of its use.
When is the theory review coming? :)
I have to put them in their paces first so im in the middle of breaking em in..and boy is it painful lol
@@BeorOng Hahaha, no worries! Can't decide between those and the Evolv phantom so looking forward to comparing your reviews for the two!!
@@davidguzman5333 Appreciate the love man, Ill try breaking them in as quick as I can.. cant give em an honest review without really trying them out for a while after all... but first impression, rubber feels nice..a bit tight (but obvious for breaking in period) heel feels a little loose but we'll see if it holds out. Again I appreciate the following =]
Love the theory! My favorit so far for gym climbing.
@@gisgier mine have loosened a bit... still far from broken in, even harder when I cant get out of my house =[
The fit is nice though, heel a bit looser than Id like...Im actually liking the fit of my hi angle pros a lot more. Bear with me though guys... I want to make sure Im able to break it in AND put them through a proper run both indoor and out to get my full opinion on it =]
Can you do a review on ClimbX shoes? Im pretty broke and they cost like $80 on ebay, wanna see if they are hood or not.
The E-motion or the rave-x? personally if your on a budget I reckon butora acro is pretty value for money but happy to throw a review in for ya, though I do have the furia airs, theorys and hi angle pros in the pipeline so not entirely sure when Ill be able to get to it.
@@BeorOng Either Emotion and RaveX should be fine. Both should be same quality, Cheap (not trying to be condescending, but its on ebay for about $80).
Head to decathlon, they sell climbing shoes for 60-150 depending on the model and they're a very solid shoe. Popular in Europe, pretty sure the brand Is simond
I only wear black diamonds! They the most comfortable by far for me
I just cant do it, i need an updated better last to fit my foot better before i try again
Same for me, the only shoe that really fits me. My second toe is longer and that hurts a lot on stiff toe patches (e.g. scarpa instict is pure torture for me). Hope they just keep it as it is and will produce it forever. Also the only shoe that perfectly fits my heel. So it might be a niche, but for people like us it is essential to have it.
Those look cool
haha unfortunately the looks are one of the only things I like about em for now
Wait you live in engaland
Nah australia