Diagnostic mode and temperature logs on 600 & 700 series Sub-Zero Refrigerators
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- Опубліковано 23 січ 2022
- Most sub zero fridges after serial starting with 181 have a more comprehensive diagnostic mode.
To access it press and hold the “colder” and “unit on/off” buttons at the same time and then let go.
You will be brought into diagnostic mode.
Certified Refrigeration is an independent family owned business that specializes in Sub-Zero & Wolf appliance repair in the NY, NJ, CT area. We share tips and tricks with you that we feel are good information for appliance owners. If you are in the Tri-State area, you will not find a better service provider for these appliances.
For independent service on your Sub-Zero or Wolf from the technicians in this video, give us a call.
1-800-200-2306
or schedule an appointment on our website:
www.certifiedrefrigeration.com/ - Розваги
Thank you! My freezer functioning fine but woke up to the fridge side at 58'. Which feels hot compared to 38'. I called Subzero they suggested turning off breaker 30 seconds then back on so I did. Then I also took canned air and blew off condenser. We clean our condenser 2 times a year. It had a little dust on it but really didn't seem like much to cause an issue. But after an hour of the 2 things I did the temp is going back down. I saved your video though for future reference.
Thank you for posting this!
Great video! I cleaned my intake and vents and now refer is cooling. Hopefully that was the fix for the 50 EC code.
Excellent video 📹 👏 👍 👌
Gracias por estar ayudando
Hi! Thanks for all your suggestions! We went on vacay for a week and upon getting back the freezer had gone to 40 degrees and wasn’t working properly. Any idea what might have happened? Was working great until we left and now we’re just at a loss as to what happened. Thanks!
Very helpful video, any idea why my freezer temperature would be all over the place?
Your videos are awesome. Thanks for your help to the community. So we don't have a service logo on our 630 display but through the night everything in the frig got frozen. Temp dropped to 14 degrees on the display and no matter what I set temp to (even at 45 degrees as I type this) it still appears to be running freezing temp on the frig side and running non stop. I just power cycled it on and off and also now just shut off only the refrigerator side as per your other very helpful video. Frig still appears to be running non stop however and compressor isn't cutting out. Must be something silly (possibly bad tstat related I am gathering) but appreciate any suggestion. I'm a technically capable guy so hoping I can handle whatever needs to be done.
Very informative! I have a 632 and the back wall of my refrigerator keeps freezing/icing up. When this happens I must unload and remove the back panel and remove the ice. Do you have any videos on this?
Sounds like a refrigerant leak I would hire a local appliance repair
Thanks for posting. I get the 50 ec. Problem is i camt get into diagnostic mode nor can i clear codes. The keypad is unresponsive.
It currently says 32 rE
I have the same issue
Thx
GREAT video. Can you offer up a suggestion as to why all of a sudden my 700 series IC-27R tall refrigerator's light went off and will not come on? I do have an EE code, but the refrig is working like a champ 38F all the time.
have you tried to change the light bulbs?
@@subzerorepair Nope. Would it be normal for both to go out at once? MANY THANKS for your reply. I'll put in a test bulb to see.
@@subzerorepair Well, I didn't thinking, "what are the odds BOTH would go bad at once?" Turns out one must have been bad, and then the other went out. New bulbs solved the issue. I feel like a DOLT. MANY THANKS for your reply. Not all UA-camrs do that.
Very informative and well done video, thank you. Where do you have the diagnostic codes?
www.certifiedrefrigeration.com/repair-tips/error-codes/the-lay-mans-guide-to-sub-zero-error-codes
Very informative vids, thank you! I have a 700 TC with lights out. I bought a new switch. But the instructions say I need to remove the side molding strips first, so I can get at the top trim molding and then the switch bracket. How do I remove the side molding strips without damaging them?
I’m not so sure you’ll need to, but if you do, a large flat head does the trick, or you can pull from the bottom or top, they are put in place by pressure not any screws.
Getting into that switch box on the top is pretty easy, it’s just a screw or two and the switches pop forward giving you access to the switch you need to change.
@@subzerorepair Got it done! Thanks for your help!
Hi
How about a 650 / f ? Do they have a codes ?
Hi ,thank you for a very well explained informative video.
I was able to follow how to reset the service alarm for my subzero 650 ref.
but it came back saying service -my ice machine is off.
the inside refrigerator wall is icy.Is it defrost issue?
thanks for reading and if you can give some hint on what diagnostic mode i should perform.
Very much appreciated.
Go into diagnostic mode and read your code, that will be your first clue. Also, watch my video on a manual diagnostic test to determine that all mechanical functions are working.
@@subzerorepair Thank you kindly for your quick reply. 06 EC was the code= thermister issue? Do you think this was brought by the 9 hrs.outage by our electric company? again thanks sincerely.
Thanks for the video. I have a 2005 model 648Pro Sub-Zero. I have a little frost in the middle of the back wall of the Refrigerator (door Section). It appears to be holding temperature fine and I do not see any door seal damage. I have manually defrosted it a couple of times but it comes back next day. Any suggestions on cause or what I should check.
Absolutely! I love the 648 pro!!! What a machine.
Okay some stuff. Let’s talk analog for a second, then digital.
A frost up can be cause by a few things. Most notable, air flow issues. I would confirm that when you close your door, your evaporator fan is turning on. I like to do this by putting my phone on video and putting it on the top shelf of the unit. Replay the video. Do you hear the fan turn on?
If not it could be a bad fan, causing no air flow and the coil to be icing up. The switch for the fan is inside the door hinge on the 648 pro, there is an Allan key you can adjust on the hinge so that it hits every single time you close the door.
Make sure your condenser is clean!
Next thing you should check is your evaporator temperatures!! You can do this on the 648 pro by lifting your grill! It’s right there on a screen. Your evaporator is covered in frost, so that evap temp should be super low like around zero degrees. If it isn’t, and it’s reading something wacky like say.. 70 degrees or something, I would say you have a bad sensor.
Lots of stuff to check, let me know how it turns out.
Error codes that may be flashing can definitely lead us in the right direction also, I would check them and reference them on sub zeros website. Good luck
Check to make sure the drainage tube (pull the drawers at the bottom out), grab a soft pipe cleaner (like the kids play with) and carefully run it thru the hose ;) fix is like $0.04
Hello, love your videos and web site. I wish you were located in CA! I have a SubZero 736TC and the condenser fan doesn't seem to start. Freezer is cold, Refrigerator got hot as did the front tank. I hear a click ever once in a while, which I assume is the relay trying to turn it on. I get 11.5 vt at the fan connector, but not sure if that's enough voltage or if it's ac or dc, since I haven't pulled it yet and my voltmeter is on 'auto'. The error codes seem to be fine. Is there any test I can do to confirm it's the fan and not a thermistor or relay? Much appreciated! -J
What I can't figure out is what are good RE (Refrigerator Evaporator) temperatures in relation to the 38 deg F that the refrigerator is commonly set to.
It depends on the evaporator and thermistor location, older evaporators with the thermistor mounted on the side rarely deviated from the set point temp, while the newer aluminum evaps with the thermistors located inside the coil could get down quite lower, especially while the door was open and the fan wasn’t producing a load on the coil. Just depends on the models evaporator thermistor location really.
Some of these don't seem to work on my 650. Warmer + unit off just turns off the unit.
Have a 700TC and freezer is fine but fridge is warm. I know it's a two tier cooling system. Does it have two condenser coils or just one? Freezer coil is not that dirty so I'm thinking it could be the fridge thermistor or control board as the issue. Thanks for your anticipated response.
Yah one condenser, the gas never mixes but they run the lines through the same condenser unit. 700 tc unit at this point is a little older, couldn’t guess at it, but the issue is definitely isolated to your fridge. Hire an appliance tech.
(Thanks for the video.) I think 700TC is the chiller model and 700TF is the freezer model? We have a TC still going good at 22 years old, there is no on/off switch on the panel. The adjacent 700BR freezer drawers iced up at least twice, we just left it to de-ice, always happy to pay a tech but so far nothing to pay them for!
I have a SB 690 refrigerator that does not automatically defrost. I want to learn how to enter the diagnostic mode and test if the heater coil will work before calling a technician. Any other ideas on how to diagnose the issue - heater, thermostat, control board etc.
ua-cam.com/video/6vxtezNIeQ0/v-deo.html
I made this video for you
Any recommendations if model 650 freezer not cooling?
Clarke company does not want to repair.
You may be local to us, why don’t you reach out? 1-800-200-2306
My condenser fan runs continuously (even when neither compressor is running). Any ideas?
I have a subzero 680/f and I'm trying to troubleshoot. The fridge is working fine. The freezer has stopped. Freezer Evaporator and compressor are not running. The control panel blinks 'vacuum' and 'ice' and I can hear a click from the control board. I have replace the control board with same result. I am unable to get it into diagnostic with your procedure in the video with both boards installed. Please help
Hmm. Control boards don’t click. Try your freezer compressor relay if we are guessing.
If not guessing, confirm whether you have 120V at the freezer compressor using a non contact voltage meter. If you do have voltage, the board is doing its job and the fault lies within the sealed system or the compressor not starting. Step one would be to change relay located on the compressor, or hard start it with a 3/1 hard start. If that gets the compressor started and it works, great!
But why did the compressor fail? There may be an underlying reason ( ie a leak, a restriction, a failed condenser fan ?) or maybe it just got old. Who knows. Right now, the name of the game is to get that compressor started and see what it does.
I’ll make a video for diagnostic modes on early 600 series. Basically you need to hit the power button once on the thermistor you want to see the reading for.
Change that relay, buy it from your sub zero parts distributor. Have your serial number ready.
My subzero keeps tripping my circuit breaker. Any idea why ?
help. my sub zero 700 TC just stopped cooling the refigerator but the freezer is still cooling but it still sounds like its running. is this something i can repair myself? how much am i looking at to get it fixed? my error code is EC 40
a 700TC is dual refrigeration, so you have two separate systems there. A freezer system, and a fridge system.
While there could be something wrong with your sealed system, ie your compressor, evaporator, etc… the best thing for you to do right now is to vacuum your condenser located beneath the lower freezer drawer.
While down there, without pulling anything out, you should feel the fan spinning behind the condenser. If the fans dead, it can cause what you are experiencing.
However, if cleaning doesn’t help, it may be time to call a professional.
I apparently didn't close my door completely today on my 611 and the unit turned itself off. Now the Unit On switch doesn't turn it on either by one press or press and hold. Any suggestion?
The lights turned off because they got too hot, then you accidentally hit the power button and shut it off. Common mistake. I’m sure it’s working now!!
I have a Sub Zero 650 refrigerator. I have a Temp, Ice Off , Service and rE code showing up. I tried going to the diagnostic mode but the panel is not responding. What could be wrong?
Sounds like a bad touch panel or board, i would change panel first then board but most likely both.
@@subzerorepair so it’s stuck in the diagnostic mode showing the refrigerator evaporator temperature. But unit on/off or any other switch is not responding. Bell button does work but it doesn’t reset the error. I have done reset using circuit breaker. This started happening after there was a power outage at my home.
Videos won’t play
Not working anymore?
How can become factory train tech with sub zero.
Find an authorized servicer in your area and apply, or learn about general appliance repair and work your way into it.
Hi, thanks for informative video. Have a 650 which works fine - that is, the refrigerator keeps things cold and the freezer keeps things frozen and the ice maker works. For several years, the illuminated control panel does not function at all and there is no illumination either on the panel or in the refrigerator. Is it a loose wire or is there something I can replace myself? Thanks for any guidance. Joe
The panel is illuminated by the light bulbs in the ceiling of the 650 refrigerator. I would make sure my lights are working first.
If the lights are working and the screen is still not displaying temperature, then the control board which the screen is a part of is the problem. If the panel still doesn’t work once a cpu board is installed, then I would probably get a panel.
@@subzerorepair Great thanks! Just took out the upper cover, unscrewed one of the four light bulbs and tested it. Bulbs are ok. I illuminated the panel from behind with a flashlight and I can see the freezer & frig temps (05 & 34). What does it sound like to you? Should I review your video again & see if the code checking you demonstrated works? Thanks again for any guidance.
I see that there are several models of cpu board available for the 650. Ours is a 650/S. Mfg date Feb 2002, s/n: P1895690.
Change your light switch dude!!!!
It’s more than likely not your cpu
hello i have a problem with my 700TC fridge where it is running far too often and its making extrmely annoying humming sound. when i do the diagnostic it shows EC 50. How do i get the dam compressor to shut off? also why is my refigrator door not closing properly so its flush with the cabinentry? there is always a small gap. is there any way to quiet down this fridge?
Diagnosing a Sub-Zero Refrigerator not cooling - testing motors and electronics - part one
ua-cam.com/video/goxpNQ6EoqQ/v-deo.html
Do a manual diagnostic test. Check your fans, compressors lights etc make sure you condenser is clean. Your door is probably sagging due to the weight of the door, it can be adjusted. Clean your condenser. It’s hard to know what’s wrong but start small and use common sense to figure it out.
@@subzerorepair hi, do you think the humming sound is extra loud because the motor of the fan is old and needs to be replaced? the fridge is 12 years old and i had the fan replaced but not the motor. is the humming sound coming from the fan motor?