This helped me tremendously I have the same problem . The wife wanted to ditch the refrigerator but I followed your video and it turned out to be the cold controler now I hope I can find the part … many thanks for this 8 year old video ….
Tremendous thanks for making this video. Had the same problem & this really helped sort it out. Just FYI, on a 532, the fan cover / light bulb assembly has to be removed to locate the fan wires.
dfgrego on the 532 the control goes thru the evaporator panel, instead here on the left. Can it be easily removed as the wire harness seemed hard to access from the front? Should I remove the knob first then will the control come off.
@@williamchow1624 I was lucky and was able to buy it locally from a repairman for about $120 cash, I could have ordered it for a little less but getting it the same day on a Saturday got my refrigerator working right away was better than waiting for the part to come!
Thanks for the video it was most useful in detailing the steps for disassembly , however on my model 590 when the thermostat failed the compressor and condenser fan motor did not run . , you can also test the circuit at the condenser fan relay ( located top middle)the black wire at that relay also supplies power to the thermostat and should be live , the gray wire is the power return from the thermostat , it supplies power to the compressor as well as the condenser fan relay and should be live when the thermostat is calling for cool . you can easily follow the wires on your schematic hopefully still located in the brown envelope up top hope this info is helpful to someone thanks again
I have the same 590. You gave great info on repairing, though my issue is my freezerside is not working. At least i learned something about the refridgetator side. I probably need to call someone to repair mine 😢😢😢
Not sure if you saw my other video, but I had a problem with the defrost system on my 590 and found the issue. If nothing else, it'll help you take apart the freezer to inspect the evaporator. Here it is - ua-cam.com/video/mfaXuj3zdVw/v-deo.html&ab_channel=PIFDIY
Thanks for this!! I have exact model, luckily not same prom but needed to replace lights for the refrigerator control. The steps and comme tray to get at the panel were helpful to get the refrig/freezer control off. Replaced both bulbs, problem solved. Pretty straightforward....
Ironic I have the same model! Feel the quality of these so called older models are more user friendly for repairs and accessibility was simpler than I thought
Nice job with the diagnostics. Next time you could simply check the grey wire to the refrigerator section compressor for 120vac. That comes direct from your cold control.
presuming the grey goes back to the compressor, and the black goes up to the evap fan? i have the wires off the refrig controller, but without a jumper to bypass what am i checking for on this end?
That is really useful. I have one of those little gadgets that gives you a red light when you put it near an energized 120VAC wire. I did that to the gray wire that goes into the compressor from the thermostat and found that it was energized.
Thanks for the info it was very helpful. I traced MY issue back to the cold control (part #4201260) as well. It seems the internal points were not closing until the control was turned almost all the was up to 10! FWIW, after closer examination of the control itself, I saw that there were two very small adjustment screws with access holes on the bottom of the unit. I assumed that they were probably limit adjustments for low and high settings. After rotating the temp setting knob the full range a number of times and listening for when the points closed, I was able to adjust the high end range to where I could hear the points closing at a much normal position! Saved $100 for replacement part cost. Now the only question is; how did the unit get so far out of calibration? I'm thinking that the mechanical spring/metal assembly must have lost some of its tension over the years. Will still probably eventually have to replace the part but thought I would pass this info along in case someone is in need of a quick fix to try and get things back up and running. Who knows, maybe it will be good for another 15 years????
Amazing report!! I got stuck with the wiring holding the evaporator panel. It seems to be attached in the back and perhaps removable, but how do you reach back there. This video allows easy access, but with the 532 the control unit seems attached with limited access. How did you get it off and back on given it seems you have to reach around to disconnect and connect the control through the panel? Thanks. The 532 access seems harder. I also had the old grey fan (original) which circulated air in reverse. The listed part is white and blows down, as in this video.
Great video on repairing evaporator fan problem! I need help with the ice maker problem, it not producing ice with this same model Subzero 590. can you put up a video on this topic? Thank you!
We bought a new cold control unit and installed it. It turned the fridge on and began cooling. Problem now is, it doesn't turn off! We noticed that the temperature "coil" or probe that leads right into the control is much shorter than the one that was originally there. The original one snaked through the back of the panel, and the new one is only about 6 inches long. Firstly , do you think the length is the issue? If so , can we simply solder the probe wire from the old one onto the end of the new one so that the length increases and therefore has a better gauge of the temp?
Rich, I think I paid around $10 for a double pole single throw switch. I went through a couple until I bought a higher rated switch. I think it was rated for 25A at 120V; found it on Amazon or Ebay. Good luck.
Hi, I purchased a house recently, and it had a Subzero old model (either 532 or 590). The freezer is working good but not the fridge side, and the control dials are at 1 for the freezer
@@thelariat6587 I too am working on this same problem, although the fridge compressor does run, just not for long enough, no matter what the temp control is set for. I suspect the thermostat has a partial failure, but that is really tough to troubleshoot without just buying a new one and installing it.
Could use your help. Great video and explanation. I have a 532 model and basically same set up except for location of thermostat which is on back panel that you removed. I replaced the thermostat, reassembled everything and the fan on top now seems to have a problem. The pin that holds the fan has some up and down flexibility which was helpful when putting back panel. Now the fan seems to be sticking and makes sound. If I put my finger on pin and push it up very slightly the fans works fine and is quiet. The minute I let go it drops a little and starts a grinding noise and then push up slightly then fine. Any suggestions? Please. Thanks Michael
i have the same refrigerator and my fan seems to run when i press the lever but the refrigerator does feel warmer than it should be. do you think it could be the cold control or something else possibly wrong?
my mother has a subzero 601 r/f fridge. it does this weird thing where it cools good then stops cooling and shows error code 06 ec. she has been unplugging it when this code shows up to get it to cool again. this fridge has always gave her problems meanwhile I've been using the same cheap 300 fridge that I got from a salvation army for like 15 years already and it still keeps my beer ice cold. I think my mothers subzero fridge cost her 6000 usd.
I have a similar unit, the 561 subzero model. Freezer works fine, but refrigerator is warm. In initial stages of troubleshooting. The refrigerator evaporator fan doesn't go on. so i am back tracking now to see if it is the thermostat like in your video or possibly the compressor. My question is, when looking at the top compartment, sub zero has '2' compressors 1 for freezer one for refrigerator. When i turn the freezer to 10 (coldest) the compressor goes on (i hear it) and the compressor fan turns on. If i turn that 'off' it turns off. However the refrigerator Side i have at 10 (coldest), so i am thinking that the compressor for that should be on and the compressor fan should still be 'on' if the refrigerator setting is at 10. So am i right in thinking it may be the refrigerator compressor or as in your video the temperature sensor that maybe just isn't calling for cold.
I had the same symptom so it could be the cold control (thermostat). Try jumping it and see if the compressor runs. I added my source for parts in the video description. Good luck.
Thank you soooooo much. It is a 15 yr old unit so although they say sub zero should last 20 years, i think it lasted pretty long. To have a service tech come out just to diagnose is around $150, then depending on the issue not sure if it is worth repairing or just getting a new fridge for $1500. I looked at the parts and they don't seem too expensive, even the compressor is only $300, but not sure what labor would be. So if i can diagnose and hopefully if it is the temp conrol, it may be something i can attempt myself. again thanks again, great video!
And we all paid extra for this unreliability. Never again. I have old "home depot" fridges that I have neglected forever and they still run reliably in my garage.
@pifdiy298 I went to a retailer earlier today and got prices ranging from 14k to 20k for a newer sub zero unit. It's pricey but I can't argue when the pervious model lasted 25+ years
@pifdiy298, apologies. I'm not sure what BI48 is, but there were three different models they showed us. One was the 48in side by side with dispenser (14k), there was a 48in French door style (~16k) and the 48in pro series (20k).
Correct.... my model was manufactured in 1996. Long past warranty. I continue to repair or review videos like this to see if I can save a few $$ to repair. I have had to replace my ice maker twice, and water inlet valve once over past 10 years. I dont buy knock off parts, but call Subzero, get contact info of their distributor, and order parts direct. Knock on wood, my unit is still going strong. Big $$ will be compressors....
hi can some one tell me if the 590 sub zero have a built in water filter. I can't find it so I in stall a filter. I really want to know if it has a filter. thank you.
The 590 does NOT have a built in water filter. Usual configuration is to run water through a RO system first (implied filtered/RO'd - typically under kitchen sink, then home is pre-plumbed to bring water over to the frig/freezer. This is my configuration.
This helped me tremendously I have the same problem . The wife wanted to ditch the refrigerator but I followed your video and it turned out to be the cold controler now I hope I can find the part … many thanks for this 8 year old video ….
Glad to hear it! Try certifiedapplianceparts.com/ for parts.
Tremendous thanks for making this video. Had the same problem & this really helped sort it out.
Just FYI, on a 532, the fan cover / light bulb assembly has to be removed to locate the fan wires.
dfgrego on the 532 the control goes thru the evaporator panel, instead here on the left. Can it be easily removed as the wire harness seemed hard to access from the front? Should I remove the knob first then will the control come off.
Thank you for this video. It walked me through a repair at a client’s house. Just waiting on the part!
This video was spot on! I actually diagnosed and fixed my refrigerator this morning!
How much was the part?
@@williamchow1624 I was lucky and was able to buy it locally from a repairman for about $120 cash, I could have ordered it for a little less but getting it the same day on a Saturday got my refrigerator working right away was better than waiting for the part to come!
Thank you for posting this video. My problem is solved with your clear and precise guidance. 👍
Thanks for the video it was most useful in detailing the steps for disassembly , however on my model 590 when the thermostat failed the compressor and condenser fan motor did not run . , you can also test the circuit at the condenser fan relay ( located top middle)the black wire at that relay also supplies power to the thermostat and should be live , the gray wire is the power return from the thermostat , it supplies power to the compressor as well as the condenser fan relay and should be live when the thermostat is calling for cool . you can easily follow the wires on your schematic hopefully still located in the brown envelope up top hope this info is helpful to someone thanks again
Good to know. Thanks!
I have the same 590. You gave great info on repairing, though my issue is my freezerside is not working. At least i learned something about the refridgetator side. I probably need to call someone to repair mine 😢😢😢
Not sure if you saw my other video, but I had a problem with the defrost system on my 590 and found the issue. If nothing else, it'll help you take apart the freezer to inspect the evaporator. Here it is - ua-cam.com/video/mfaXuj3zdVw/v-deo.html&ab_channel=PIFDIY
Wow an average home owners will know all this details amazing thank you 🙏
Thanks for this!! I have exact model, luckily not same prom but needed to replace lights for the refrigerator control. The steps and comme tray to get at the panel were helpful to get the refrig/freezer control off. Replaced both bulbs, problem solved. Pretty straightforward....
EXCELLENT video. Thank you.
Thank you! Got me the info I needed to fix a 561 using part 4201260 .
Ironic I have the same model! Feel the quality of these so called older models are more user friendly for repairs and accessibility was simpler than I thought
Thanks, I am going to replace mine with your help.
Great video! Now I know what to look for should this happen.
Nice job with the diagnostics. Next time you could simply check the grey wire to the refrigerator section compressor for 120vac. That comes direct from your cold control.
presuming the grey goes back to the compressor, and the black goes up to the evap fan? i have the wires off the refrig controller, but without a jumper to bypass what am i checking for on this end?
That is really useful. I have one of those little gadgets that gives you a red light when you put it near an energized 120VAC wire. I did that to the gray wire that goes into the compressor from the thermostat and found that it was energized.
Thanks that is real helpful. My 590 master power switch has failed before and I'm almost certain that is the problem this time.
Good video!
Thanks for the info it was very helpful. I traced MY issue back to the cold control (part #4201260) as well. It seems the internal points were not closing until the control was turned almost all the was up to 10! FWIW, after closer examination of the control itself, I saw that there were two very small adjustment screws with access holes on the bottom of the unit. I assumed that they were probably limit adjustments for low and high settings. After rotating the temp setting knob the full range a number of times and listening for when the points closed, I was able to adjust the high end range to where I could hear the points closing at a much normal position! Saved $100 for replacement part cost. Now the only question is; how did the unit get so far out of calibration? I'm thinking that the mechanical spring/metal assembly must have lost some of its tension over the years. Will still probably eventually have to replace the part but thought I would pass this info along in case someone is in need of a quick fix to try and get things back up and running. Who knows, maybe it will be good for another 15 years????
Amazing report!! I got stuck with the wiring holding the evaporator panel. It seems to be attached in the back and perhaps removable, but how do you reach back there. This video allows easy access, but with the 532 the control unit seems attached with limited access. How did you get it off and back on given it seems you have to reach around to disconnect and connect the control through the panel? Thanks. The 532 access seems harder. I also had the old grey fan (original) which circulated air in reverse. The listed part is white and blows down, as in this video.
Thank you very much! It is very useful video!
Great video. Thanks for sharing
Great video on repairing evaporator fan problem! I need help with the ice maker problem, it not producing ice with this same model Subzero 590. can you put up a video on this topic? Thank you!
thank you
We bought a new cold control unit and installed it. It turned the fridge on and began cooling. Problem now is, it doesn't turn off! We noticed that the temperature "coil" or probe that leads right into the control is much shorter than the one that was originally there. The original one snaked through the back of the panel, and the new one is only about 6 inches long. Firstly , do you think the length is the issue? If so , can we simply solder the probe wire from the old one onto the end of the new one so that the length increases and therefore has a better gauge of the temp?
You are right on target. Very good info. You are a pro! How much is a master switch? Is there a good parts house online?
Rich, I think I paid around $10 for a double pole single throw switch. I went through a couple until I bought a higher rated switch. I think it was rated for 25A at 120V; found it on Amazon or Ebay. Good luck.
Can the Freezer side operate normally when working on the Refrigerator side?
Hi, I purchased a house recently, and it had a Subzero old model (either 532 or 590). The freezer is working good but not the fridge side, and the control dials are at 1 for the freezer
Same problem did you figure out what was?
@@thelariat6587 I too am working on this same problem, although the fridge compressor does run, just not for long enough, no matter what the temp control is set for. I suspect the thermostat has a partial failure, but that is really tough to troubleshoot without just buying a new one and installing it.
Could use your help. Great video and explanation. I have a 532 model and basically same set up except for location of thermostat which is on back panel that you removed. I replaced the thermostat, reassembled everything and the fan on top now seems to have a problem. The pin that holds the fan has some up and down flexibility which was helpful when putting back panel. Now the fan seems to be sticking and makes sound. If I put my finger on pin and push it up very slightly the fans works fine and is quiet. The minute I let go it drops a little and starts a grinding noise and then push up slightly then fine. Any suggestions? Please. Thanks Michael
How do you start the defrost cycle?
i have the same refrigerator and my fan seems to run when i press the lever but the refrigerator does feel warmer than it should be. do you think it could be the cold control or something else possibly wrong?
Have you cleaned the condenser on top of the refrigerator? Performance will decline if it is really dirty.
and 3 for the refrigerator. Are these the correct #s??
my mother has a subzero 601 r/f fridge. it does this weird thing where it cools good then stops cooling and shows error code 06 ec. she has been unplugging it when this code shows up to get it to cool again. this fridge has always gave her problems meanwhile I've been using the same cheap 300 fridge that I got from a salvation army for like 15 years already and it still keeps my beer ice cold. I think my mothers subzero fridge cost her 6000 usd.
the fan I have was turning but the frigidaire would get cold, it says between 48 degree to 60 degree
What is the part number
I have a similar unit, the 561 subzero model. Freezer works fine, but refrigerator is warm. In initial stages of troubleshooting. The refrigerator evaporator fan doesn't go on. so i am back tracking now to see if it is the thermostat like in your video or possibly the compressor. My question is, when looking at the top compartment, sub zero has '2' compressors 1 for freezer one for refrigerator. When i turn the freezer to 10 (coldest) the compressor goes on (i hear it) and the compressor fan turns on. If i turn that 'off' it turns off. However the refrigerator Side i have at 10 (coldest), so i am thinking that the compressor for that should be on and the compressor fan should still be 'on' if the refrigerator setting is at 10. So am i right in thinking it may be the refrigerator compressor or as in your video the temperature sensor that maybe just isn't calling for cold.
also where did you get the parts??
I had the same symptom so it could be the cold control (thermostat). Try jumping it and see if the compressor runs. I added my source for parts in the video description. Good luck.
Thank you soooooo much. It is a 15 yr old unit so although they say sub zero should last 20 years, i think it lasted pretty long. To have a service tech come out just to diagnose is around $150, then depending on the issue not sure if it is worth repairing or just getting a new fridge for $1500. I looked at the parts and they don't seem too expensive, even the compressor is only $300, but not sure what labor would be. So if i can diagnose and hopefully if it is the temp conrol, it may be something i can attempt myself. again thanks again, great video!
How did you make the jumper cable?
Just use a couple spade connectors. You can get them from any hardware/auto/big box store.
And we all paid extra for this unreliability. Never again. I have old "home depot" fridges that I have neglected forever and they still run reliably in my garage.
is there another way to jump the cold control?
No
What if the evaporator is full of ice
I could be wrong, but I think the most likely cause is a refrigerant leak.
Darn, the evaporator is leaking on ours and I don't think it's worth paying to repair it. We'll time for a new one
Sorry to hear that. Let me know what you replace it with. 48" fridge's are not cheap these days!
@pifdiy298 I went to a retailer earlier today and got prices ranging from 14k to 20k for a newer sub zero unit. It's pricey but I can't argue when the pervious model lasted 25+ years
Bi48?@@mohibsiddiqui8273
@pifdiy298, apologies. I'm not sure what BI48 is, but there were three different models they showed us. One was the 48in side by side with dispenser (14k), there was a 48in French door style (~16k) and the 48in pro series (20k).
how do u replace evaporator motor in the same model freezer
Do you mean evaporator fan motor?
Unfortunately all of this will void your warranty..
Not sure if you're joking but the fridge is over 20 years old...
Correct.... my model was manufactured in 1996. Long past warranty. I continue to repair or review videos like this to see if I can save a few $$ to repair. I have had to replace my ice maker twice, and water inlet valve once over past 10 years. I dont buy knock off parts, but call Subzero, get contact info of their distributor, and order parts direct. Knock on wood, my unit is still going strong. Big $$ will be compressors....
@@Mark-ji5ve I guess they are expensive to repair? Looking at a house that has the 590 model. Guess it could go at any time with its age.
hi can some one tell me if the 590 sub zero have a built in water filter. I can't find it so I in stall a filter. I really want to know if it has a filter. thank you.
The 590 does NOT have a built in water filter. Usual configuration is to run water through a RO system first (implied filtered/RO'd - typically under kitchen sink, then home is pre-plumbed to bring water over to the frig/freezer. This is my configuration.