I generally don’t make comments. I have done four of these myself. I agree once you have broken everything apart it can take you about 15 minutes. However, in my experience you need to have a large slide hammer to remove the axle the first time. I did like all of your other information and the marking pen was a good idea. Overall nice job.
Great video!! Have seals leaking and put it off way to long ,keep fluid checked..now my bearings are making a noise.. guessing got some sand and junk in them..going to be replacing with new ones soon.
Very helpful video. When I did mine, two of the four press fit studs were rotating so I couldn’t get the nuts off. Had to buy a nut splitter to remove them. Other than that it went fine. Thanks for the video. Without it I probably wouldn’t have tackled this job myself.
Nice write up. I just removed my rear axle shafts this past weekend. Easy job IF you live in a rust free zone. 4 of the 8 bolts spun. I used the 3 ft pry bar with a ton of force on the brake mounting bracket while using a 5 lb slide hammer. Took about 50 hits before they broke free. So a 15 min job took me 3 days. I have new shafts, bearings, seals and seal cover coming this week. I went with 10 factory chromoly. Thanks for the video!
I took the ebrake assembly off for better access. Then I used a vice grip to hold the spinning bolt from the front side. Slowly backed off the nuts on the back side. Pb blaster was key. Spray it and lt sit especially if its rusty. Those bolts should only be torqued to 45 ft lb.
You can leave the ebrake plate in place and just pull the shaft out. It takes a little bit of movement to get it around the springs though. And your new shaft should come with new races to go with the new bearings that are installed on the shafts.
yea sometimes the plate is easy to take off, sometimes it's not. so i just pull it all off together. can also use the backside of the rotor as a way of pulling the shaft off. put rotor on upside down, couple nuts just threaded on. and use it as a puller.
Thanks! My son just bought a used JK that has a slight wobble in the left rear. Can't feel it but it has the "squeeksqueeksqueek". I'll probably be doing this real soon since it's a little embarassing. Like others said, ratcheting box's. I'm lazy so I have them from 22mm down to 6mm.
I was wondering the same thing. Other vehicles I've seen needs the differ to be drained and a pin pulled out to remove the shaft. This video makes it seem like that's not required
Question buddy, i have a 2007 JK unlimited sport, what measurement are my axel? I need to replace the rear passenger side. Can someone pleas help me with this?
My rotors had clips over the threaded studs that kept them on. Wasn't as easy to get off as yours. Had you already removed yours? Also, I didn't see you pull the old bearing race out of the axle housing. Did it come out with the bearing?
Investigate your least expensive problem first then move on to more expensive fixes. bearings usually drone and can be heard at all speeds. Check your brake pads, you may be down to the squealer.
I have a powerstop brake kit on my wrangler and I love it .my jeep is a damn heavy vehicle with factory brakes I had to push the brake so hard so that it would stop after 300feets ! It would slide on the rotors!but the new kit is a game changer !
If you do not change the seal at least put some oil on it before you install in the woods .if you are not out in the woods then change the seal and save a lot of @###@ing @#@#@#ing ( bad words) if it leaks on your e brake.
unless you are driving around with the brake on or pulling a J turn the e brakes won't wear very fast. It is a great time to check the adjustment of the e-brake though.
good observation, wrong conclusion. axles at this point had 65k miles on them. the brakes on the other hand, were newer. but im sure you're aware that removing the brakes doesn't involve taking shafts out, so theyre obviously not related. good call tho Eduardo.
I disagree tone ring looks new wheel studs look new axle plate studs look very clean and the axle face looks after market. It's a good video to show someone how to do it. But don't try to show how fast you can get the job done.
@@richcreek465 like I said, good observation. incorrect conclusion. shafts had about 50k miles on them. diff cover (axle face) was likely year or two, but doesn't affect shaft. tone ring was clean because it was just clean. I have no answer for that. but this was MY jeep, so im FAIRLY confident when I say, they were not new parts. to give you some side info, I own an off road shop. I do this everyday. from jeeps with high miles to low miles, they all come apart. the only ever problem that could happen would be spinning one of the studs to the axle retainer, but thats only problem ive ever run into.
great video. I need to pull the axel on a 2017 Jeep Wrangler JK and I was not sure what needed to come apart. This helped.
I generally don’t make comments. I have done four of these myself. I agree once you have broken everything apart it can take you about 15 minutes. However, in my experience you need to have a large slide hammer to remove the axle the first time. I did like all of your other information and the marking pen was a good idea. Overall nice job.
Using the rotors as a slide hammer works wonders.
Excellent how to video... you made it look easy man!
Great video!! Have seals leaking and put it off way to long ,keep fluid checked..now my bearings are making a noise.. guessing got some sand and junk in them..going to be replacing with new ones soon.
Very helpful video. When I did mine, two of the four press fit studs were rotating so I couldn’t get the nuts off. Had to buy a nut splitter to remove them. Other than that it went fine. Thanks for the video. Without it I probably wouldn’t have tackled this job myself.
Nice write up. I just removed my rear axle shafts this past weekend. Easy job IF you live in a rust free zone. 4 of the 8 bolts spun. I used the 3 ft pry bar with a ton of force on the brake mounting bracket while using a 5 lb slide hammer. Took about 50 hits before they broke free. So a 15 min job took me 3 days.
I have new shafts, bearings, seals and seal cover coming this week. I went with 10 factory chromoly.
Thanks for the video!
2 of mine are spinning, could you elaborate more on how you got yours off?
I took the ebrake assembly off for better access. Then I used a vice grip to hold the spinning bolt from the front side. Slowly backed off the nuts on the back side. Pb blaster was key. Spray it and lt sit especially if its rusty. Those bolts should only be torqued to 45 ft lb.
You just made my day. This is soooo easy and just saved my weekend and allot of cash
You need a set of ratcheting wrenches, full set at HD is cheap around Black Friday. Great video!!!
Rich Beach got a few sets. But this spot required an angled wrench to reach.
Gotcha, hard to tell from the camera angle. Looked like a perfect opportunity.
You can leave the ebrake plate in place and just pull the shaft out. It takes a little bit of movement to get it around the springs though.
And your new shaft should come with new races to go with the new bearings that are installed on the shafts.
yea sometimes the plate is easy to take off, sometimes it's not. so i just pull it all off together. can also use the backside of the rotor as a way of pulling the shaft off. put rotor on upside down, couple nuts just threaded on. and use it as a puller.
.....I may have used my rotor and promptly destroyed it while pulling the shaft. Be careful would be my advice to folks reading this tip.
but Dennis at teraflex said it was a good way! ;)
Thanks! My son just bought a used JK that has a slight wobble in the left rear. Can't feel it but it has the "squeeksqueeksqueek". I'll probably be doing this real soon since it's a little embarassing. Like others said, ratcheting box's. I'm lazy so I have them from 22mm down to 6mm.
great video brother...
your sneeze was adorable lol
Adorable?really. Caitlin jenner status right there.well said miss.
@@itiswhatis5656 lol snowflake
@@javierreyes786 definitely a snowflake
You said those two famous words "pretty easily" been there many many times Brotha
BUT THE INTERNET SAID IT WAS SIMPLE!
"three, years, later ..."
Big help thanks !!!
Awesome straightforward yet thorough guide. Appreciate you sharing!
Friend please tell me why after replacing the rear axle bearing 50 miles later it breaks again? Thank you
Love your install videos bud! Keepm coming
please show us brake replacement and adjustable barke thanks a lot
Well, this seems easy enough... I have a set of G2 alloys going in this week :)
Can you pull the axle out without removing the emergency brake?
Wow you really know your stuff. So cool 👌🏼
Couple questions, do you need to drain the diff before? Also what are some signs that they need to be replaced?
I was wondering the same thing. Other vehicles I've seen needs the differ to be drained and a pin pulled out to remove the shaft. This video makes it seem like that's not required
@@cameronmckay3504 the JK wrangler does not have a clip on the diff side, I would check and top off the fluid level once done.
Signs you need a new one is slight wobble and squeak squeak squeak as you drive
What's the part number for the rear driver side axle
Don’t need to pull that axle breading brace out too?
Question buddy, i have a 2007 JK unlimited sport, what measurement are my axel? I need to replace the rear passenger side. Can someone pleas help me with this?
Would you please share link of where you bought your axle shafts and which complete kit they are?
What yr JK do you have ? I'm hoping mine goes easy as yours.. iown a 2015 JK 2 dr
Great video 👍🏻
26 👎🏻 mechanics because you won’t be paying them $2000 to do the job
I have a leak in my rear driver side axle shaft .do I have to open the rear diff if I want to change the axle shaft??
You did this in 15 min and a shop is trying to charge me 900 bucks. Did you also need to drain the fluid?
Wat brand you put ,,recomendé one brand jk rubicon 10aniversary
My rotors had clips over the threaded studs that kept them on. Wasn't as easy to get off as yours. Had you already removed yours? Also, I didn't see you pull the old bearing race out of the axle housing. Did it come out with the bearing?
that's a factory clip
How can i know if I bought the right rear axle shaft, I mean like how long it is in the treads
Alexitto Chavez The Rubicon model has different sized rear shafts, the other models have the same length rear shafts so left and right don't matter.
They all have same length just make sure you get correct spline count
Ben what do you mean get correct spline count
@@Ben-lo7cy Nope, Rubicons have different lengths and 32 spline. All non Rubicon JK's post 2007 have Dana 44 and have same length and 30 spline count.
THANKS!!!
What’s the part number
Killer video
What brand did you go for the axle shaft
Wat axle shafts brand you put
My YJ squeals in rear left wheel when I am decelerating. Is it a bad bearing???
Investigate your least expensive problem first then move on to more expensive fixes. bearings usually drone and can be heard at all speeds. Check your brake pads, you may be down to the squealer.
What axles did you go with?
Why you no show how to put the bearing and retainer on shaft or at least show it...
J H because some brands come pre-pressed where you aint messing with that.
How do you like the Dynatrac brake kit ? I heard complaints about squeaking.
I have a powerstop brake kit on my wrangler and I love it .my jeep is a damn heavy vehicle with factory brakes I had to push the brake so hard so that it would stop after 300feets ! It would slide on the rotors!but the new kit is a game changer !
If you do not change the seal at least put some oil on it before you install in the woods .if you are not out in the woods then change the seal and save a lot of @###@ing @#@#@#ing ( bad words) if it leaks on your e brake.
Is an alignment necessary after replacing one of the shafts?
no, the axle alignment is adjusted at the links and pan-hard bar
Will this fix the squeaking noise from my passenger rear wheel on a jku?
that might be brake pad squealers
You may have several possibilities. Let an experienced Jeep mech look at it.
Why not put new parking brakes on as long as all this was done?
unless you are driving around with the brake on or pulling a J turn the e brakes won't wear very fast. It is a great time to check the adjustment of the e-brake though.
yeah but you didnt show us how to remove ring ,bearing and how to press it back to axle.15 min my ass
I was thinking the same thing, He didn't pull out the old bearing race.
I totally checked my phone
what rotors are those? mine are rust only.
these are the dynatrac upgraded "big brakes".
Looks to me like you are removing a new axle. Old ones in the real world don't come out that easy. So how about you make a real video.
good observation, wrong conclusion. axles at this point had 65k miles on them. the brakes on the other hand, were newer. but im sure you're aware that removing the brakes doesn't involve taking shafts out, so theyre obviously not related. good call tho Eduardo.
I disagree tone ring looks new wheel studs look new axle plate studs look very clean and the axle face looks after market. It's a good video to show someone how to do it. But don't try to show how fast you can get the job done.
@@richcreek465 like I said, good observation. incorrect conclusion. shafts had about 50k miles on them. diff cover (axle face) was likely year or two, but doesn't affect shaft. tone ring was clean because it was just clean. I have no answer for that. but this was MY jeep, so im FAIRLY confident when I say, they were not new parts. to give you some side info, I own an off road shop. I do this everyday. from jeeps with high miles to low miles, they all come apart. the only ever problem that could happen would be spinning one of the studs to the axle retainer, but thats only problem ive ever run into.
What axles did you go with?