Edited comment: OK, even though this is going to sound a little critical and bossy, I am writing this for your own benefit. Pretty much everything you are doing here is incorrect. Thankfully nothing looks dangerous, like using smokeless powder. Your hammer .500 BPE originally used paper patched soft lead bullets, and it will only shoot paper patched bullets accurately. Unless its bores are heavily pitted, the gun will most likely shoot two-inch groups at 100 yards, from both barrels combined. Originally, anywhere from 130 to 140 grains of Curtiss & Harvey's #6 black powder was used, which may be engraved or stamped on the gun itself, and the bullet weight was probably 330-380 grains, again either stamped or engraved on the water tables or the barrels. Today you can use Swiss FFg or Olde Eynsford 1.5FG or FFG to accurately replicate the original strength of Curtiss & Harvey's powder. Swiss is much more expensive, but it is truly highest quality. After shooting bare lead bullets, you will have to really scrub the lead out of your bore. So pour properly weighted smooth-sided paper patch bullets and wet-patch them with two wraps of old typing paper. Let them dry, snip off the tail, and put a card wad over the powder and then either a lubed felt wad or a grease cookie. Then insert the bullet into the fire formed case, and gently crimp with a sizer die and or use a crimping tool.
1. Black powder does NOT detonate! You might ring a barrel if you do not have the bullet resting on the charge, but this is to do with shockwave interaction not detonation. 2. You do not have to compress a BP load. As long as there is no air gap, you are fine. Some folk attempt to compress a charge to get and original charge into a modern case. Modern cases have a smaller capacity than the old "balloon" cases and often it is difficult to get enough powder in. I would suggest "packing" the powder with a drop tube to get maximum density. Not convinced compressing the charge is sensible as you are damaging the grains, leading to inconsistent performace. 3. 777, pyrodex and other "bulk" powders are NOT "synthetic BP". They are "BP subsitutes" and only perform in a similar way to BP . Many BP substitutes are much more pressure sensitive than BP and can cause high peak pressures if compressed. Many are also highly corrosive and rust barrels very easily. BP is easy, if not a bit dirty, to clean using modern cleaning materials. It WILL NOT rust your barrel like some BP substitutes will.
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
Edited comment: OK, even though this is going to sound a little critical and bossy, I am writing this for your own benefit. Pretty much everything you are doing here is incorrect. Thankfully nothing looks dangerous, like using smokeless powder. Your hammer .500 BPE originally used paper patched soft lead bullets, and it will only shoot paper patched bullets accurately. Unless its bores are heavily pitted, the gun will most likely shoot two-inch groups at 100 yards, from both barrels combined. Originally, anywhere from 130 to 140 grains of Curtiss & Harvey's #6 black powder was used, which may be engraved or stamped on the gun itself, and the bullet weight was probably 330-380 grains, again either stamped or engraved on the water tables or the barrels. Today you can use Swiss FFg or Olde Eynsford 1.5FG or FFG to accurately replicate the original strength of Curtiss & Harvey's powder. Swiss is much more expensive, but it is truly highest quality. After shooting bare lead bullets, you will have to really scrub the lead out of your bore. So pour properly weighted smooth-sided paper patch bullets and wet-patch them with two wraps of old typing paper. Let them dry, snip off the tail, and put a card wad over the powder and then either a lubed felt wad or a grease cookie. Then insert the bullet into the fire formed case, and gently crimp with a sizer die and or use a crimping tool.
Good two see you back at it
1. Black powder does NOT detonate! You might ring a barrel if you do not have the bullet resting on the charge, but this is to do with shockwave interaction not detonation.
2. You do not have to compress a BP load. As long as there is no air gap, you are fine. Some folk attempt to compress a charge to get and original charge into a modern case. Modern cases have a smaller capacity than the old "balloon" cases and often it is difficult to get enough powder in. I would suggest "packing" the powder with a drop tube to get maximum density. Not convinced compressing the charge is sensible as you are damaging the grains, leading to inconsistent performace.
3. 777, pyrodex and other "bulk" powders are NOT "synthetic BP". They are "BP subsitutes" and only perform in a similar way to BP . Many BP substitutes are much more pressure sensitive than BP and can cause high peak pressures if compressed. Many are also highly corrosive and rust barrels very easily. BP is easy, if not a bit dirty, to clean using modern cleaning materials. It WILL NOT rust your barrel like some BP substitutes will.
I doubt both bullets went in the same hole. One bullet key holed (hit sideways) and the other missed
It looks like a John Lyell, but the tulipping doesn't look so. Who is the maker?
Sweet
How do you load a .500 nitro express cartridge into a .500 BPE rifle anyway?
is it snowing? it was 90 here today
Close. Got pelted with hail and the day before it was 78. High desert weather is weird.
Nice