Great video (I recently acquired a .458 Win Mag. rifle and want to start relaoding for it). I was taught by my dad 40-years ago to place a bullet upside down into a powder-charged cartridge to ensure that I don't accidently double charge a cartridge. It is a practice I still employ.
I THINK SIR WINSTON WOULD HAVE ENJOYED A COUPLE OF GOOD CIGARS AND WOULD HAVE DRANK UP A FIFTH OF SCOTCH WHISKY WHILST YOU FELLOWS WERE MAKING YOUR BULLETS - HE WOULD HAVE ENJOYED THE ADVENTURE!!! BRAVO, GOOD VIDEO!!!!!!!
Tips to reloading your 458: 1) Use TWO cartridge holder trays. Work from left to right, for each stage, passing each processed empty from the left to the right tray. When finished swap over for the next stage of the process (eliminates errors). 2) Roll 5 or 6 empties at a time on a lightly oiled RCBS lube pad before de-priming - its easier on your elbow, and the die! 3) Dip the case mouth in graphite and bell mouth each, prior to bullet seating - as the 458 is a straight walled case. 4) Drop out 10 primers at a time and place them in an enclosed pan (less handling = less fumbling and dropping a box of primers all over the floor!!). Also check that each primer is seated flush with the base by swiping your finger across it as you take it out of the press ("proud" primers can lead to jamming). 5) In setting up my powder thrower I drop 10 times the charge I want, and weigh it on a balance scale. This magnifies any thrower error by a factor of ten. Then adjust out any error on your thrower. 6) If NOT weighing each charge, I then use a torch to visually inspect the entire batch for a uniform level of powder in each. (Sometimes a residual grain or two of a different powder, dead insect, or fluff will dislodge from inside the thrower, potentially dropping an over charge - something to avoid with a 458!! 7) If going for DG I double weigh each individual powder load by hand: first on a digital scale, and then on a balance scale. This cancels out any discrepancies. 8) I then seat and crimp the projectile - crimping makes for a flawless, slick, chambering. My load? 72gr of AR2206H (ADI Powder) with Woodleigh 500gr (RNSN OR FMJ) projectiles. A damn accurate, and effective, load!! Enjoy the calibre!!
That’s a whopper of a bullet and the recoil looked pretty solid. A true case could be made for “one and done!” Maybe on both ends, LOL! Thanks for posting!
I've got a CZ 550 Safari Magnum with a European stock. I'm not terribly happy with the groups I am getting with IMR 3031 powder. In developing your load, did you try other powders, and if so, may I ask, which ones did you like or not like?Great video, many thanks for posting, but I must say I agree with other respondents that lubricants and primers make poor bedfellows!
Thanks for watching and the valuable comment, I'am now using much much less lube !! The powders my brother used were IMR, RE loader 19 and Hodgdon hope this helps you out? Thanks for watching.
Jared Noah, I generally start with loads listed in either Hornady or Speer manuals, or, with the advent of some Barnes bullets, load data that they recommend. I "stay between the lines" in terms of minimum/maximum loads. I weigh each charge down to the tenth of a grain in an old fashioned balance type scale, identify and document each charge weight, combination of primer, case, bullet, seating depth, whether the case is new full length resized or fired neck-sized only, case trim length, powder type, date, etc. I do, after a fashion, work up my own loads, although I won't try a powder that isn't listed somewhere by a powder or bullet manufacturer (I'm not that brave!) I was merely curious about Mr. Yaylor's experiences, if he cared to share them - - many don't for fear of liability, which is understandable. Thanks for your concern though, working up loads oneself is the way I do it, but I do like to refer to a reliable starting point. :)
@@silverback7659 You do understand that following a reloading manual IS copying other people's loads? But as the manuals all say, work up from the bottom.
Can you use a lot less powder and still use the same load and use it for deer hunting purposes… heard of people reloading them to the power of a .45/70 load
good video--question --did you put the primers on the same work rag that you sprayed the hulls on? May have missed something-- my son and reload and he uses the 450 marlin-- again enjoyed the vid
I'll ask my brother he's the reloader not me, I was there having fun and shooting down at the range.👍 Thanks for taking the time to comment, All the best Mark
they dont recommend those in a 45-70 even in my ruger number 1 they dont recommend them, said its to hard on the gun.bullet size doesnt matter if your arnt going to load them hot enough.
You make a good point. Regardless, I stil use them in my 45/70 for fun. Obviously, not full power, but managed loads. You need to do more reloading videos with your brother when you get a chance this summer.
@@tank2449 I realize this is an old comment, but I must say that bullet types and weights are not hard on the gun; excessive pressure is. Work loads up according to what the rifle is rated to handle- the bullet's weight is amaterial.
+TheProfessor Fate Hi there, the reloading for this film was Made in Montreal Canada. It was at my brothers place. I live in England we have no real issues here with reloading, you just have to have the correct paperwork for the bullets, powder etc.That is here in the England you are cleared by the police for various calibers depending on the game your hunting. So yes some restrictions but you apply and if you have a good reason say hunting, pest control or target shooting and belong to a club your in. other than criminal conviction then your just stuffed and prohibited for life from owning any type of fire arm or even an air gun!!! Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. All the best Mark
The .458 is a magnum and should use magnum primers only not WLR . p.s you will be happier with hornaday 350gn 76gn h335 at 2450fps dont need slow 500gn for anything. try it 350 will out shoot any 500+ gr you have been miss led with more 500. PP.s Machinists use there hands and make it right the first time, Engineers use paper and never get it right.
HORNADY. Large rifle primers work just fine as long as it’s not a compressed load. Always have. THEIR hands. 350 grain bullets are for a different use than 500. Talk about not getting things right...
Vanilla Gorilla it was a while ago, but if memory serves me well it would have been about 10 rounds we made up. Hope this answers your question, thanks for watching merry Christmas Mark
I can't believe you are handling the primers with your fingers! You should never touch the primers but, especially for a dangerous game cartridge!Your just asking for a misfire! Use a primer tray and a pick up tube! I've been loading the .458 win mag for over 40 yrs and have shot a lot of game including buffalo in Argentina. H4895 has always been the best powder with hornady 500 gr. bullets, CCI 250 magnum primers and a 24" barrel. If you have a chronograph start with 71 grs and gradually increase the charge until you reach 2130 to 2150fps. Usually 73grs will get you there with new hornady brass and 74grs with once fired cases. This is a compressed charge but if you seat the bullets slowly and use a heavy crimp it works great. This gets the great .458 win mag up to it's full intended potential with no pressure problems in hot weather and the brass lasts forever! I have many bigbore rifles including .416 Ruger and Rigby, .458 Lott, 450/400 nitro and many more but my favorite bigbore is still the .458 win mag.
Putting your primers where you just sprayed case lube is not what I call good reloading practice! Especially with a load you might use against dangerous game.
If hands are clean, the 'oil' problem is not a big deal. One notes the cartridges all seem to have fired. Yes, avoiding touching primers with bare hands is good practice. Lubricated cases are not all the same. Most current case lubes are designed to evaporate quickly and not foul primers. But being more careful is never amiss.
@@phmj Why on earth would you think guns other than air gun can't be owned in the UK? You can own all sorts of guns in the UK, from 22LR right up to 50cal. You just need a licence.
I was told that unless you owned a farm or something, you couldn't own firearms ,I know you don't need a license for a Air rifle in the UK where as you do in Australia,
Great video (I recently acquired a .458 Win Mag. rifle and want to start relaoding for it). I was taught by my dad 40-years ago to place a bullet upside down into a powder-charged cartridge to ensure that I don't accidently double charge a cartridge. It is a practice I still employ.
A very good film, many thanks for your time and effort.
+Moorvale55 thanks for the positive feed back. All the best Mark
I THINK SIR WINSTON WOULD HAVE ENJOYED A COUPLE OF GOOD CIGARS AND WOULD HAVE DRANK UP A FIFTH OF SCOTCH WHISKY WHILST YOU FELLOWS WERE MAKING YOUR BULLETS - HE WOULD HAVE ENJOYED THE ADVENTURE!!!
BRAVO, GOOD VIDEO!!!!!!!
Tips to reloading your 458:
1) Use TWO cartridge holder trays. Work from left to right, for each stage, passing each processed empty from the left to the right tray. When finished swap over for the next stage of the process (eliminates errors).
2) Roll 5 or 6 empties at a time on a lightly oiled RCBS lube pad before de-priming - its easier on your elbow, and the die!
3) Dip the case mouth in graphite and bell mouth each, prior to bullet seating - as the 458 is a straight walled case.
4) Drop out 10 primers at a time and place them in an enclosed pan (less handling = less fumbling and dropping a box of primers all over the floor!!). Also check that each primer is seated flush with the base by swiping your finger across it as you take it out of the press ("proud" primers can lead to jamming).
5) In setting up my powder thrower I drop 10 times the charge I want, and weigh it on a balance scale. This magnifies any thrower error by a factor of ten. Then adjust out any error on your thrower.
6) If NOT weighing each charge, I then use a torch to visually inspect the entire batch for a uniform level of powder in each. (Sometimes a residual grain or two of a different powder, dead insect, or fluff will dislodge from inside the thrower, potentially dropping an over charge - something to avoid with a 458!!
7) If going for DG I double weigh each individual powder load by hand: first on a digital scale, and then on a balance scale. This cancels out any discrepancies.
8) I then seat and crimp the projectile - crimping makes for a flawless, slick, chambering.
My load? 72gr of AR2206H (ADI Powder) with Woodleigh 500gr (RNSN OR FMJ) projectiles. A damn accurate, and effective, load!! Enjoy the calibre!!
That’s a whopper of a bullet and the recoil looked pretty solid. A true case could be made for “one and done!”
Maybe on both ends, LOL!
Thanks for posting!
My brother made me shoot all the rounds I loaded the evening before!! Great fun 🤩. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment.
I've got a CZ 550 Safari Magnum with a European stock. I'm not terribly happy with the groups I am getting with IMR 3031 powder. In developing your load, did you try other powders, and if so, may I ask, which ones did you like or not like?Great video, many thanks for posting, but I must say I agree with other respondents that lubricants and primers make poor bedfellows!
Thanks for watching and the valuable comment, I'am now using much much less lube !! The powders my brother used were IMR, RE loader 19 and Hodgdon hope this helps you out? Thanks for watching.
Jared Noah, I generally start with loads listed in either Hornady or Speer manuals, or, with the advent of some Barnes bullets, load data that they recommend. I "stay between the lines" in terms of minimum/maximum loads. I weigh each charge down to the tenth of a grain in an old fashioned balance type scale, identify and document each charge weight, combination of primer, case, bullet, seating depth, whether the case is new full length resized or fired neck-sized only, case trim length, powder type, date, etc. I do, after a fashion, work up my own loads, although I won't try a powder that isn't listed somewhere by a powder or bullet manufacturer (I'm not that brave!) I was merely curious about Mr. Yaylor's experiences, if he cared to share them - - many don't for fear of liability, which is understandable. Thanks for your concern though, working up loads oneself is the way I do it, but I do like to refer to a reliable starting point. :)
@@silverback7659 You do understand that following a reloading manual IS copying other people's loads? But as the manuals all say, work up from the bottom.
Can you use a lot less powder and still use the same load and use it for deer hunting purposes… heard of people reloading them to the power of a .45/70 load
good video--question --did you put the primers on the same work rag that you sprayed the hulls on? May have missed something-- my son and reload and he uses the 450 marlin-- again enjoyed the vid
I'll ask my brother he's the reloader not me, I was there having fun and shooting down at the range.👍 Thanks for taking the time to comment,
All the best
Mark
Came here from Wind River shootout scene
No crimping?
You can use those 500 to reload your 45-70 cartridge. It has a little more recoil, but manageable!
they dont recommend those in a 45-70 even in my ruger number 1 they dont recommend them, said its to hard on the gun.bullet size doesnt matter if your arnt going to load them hot enough.
You make a good point. Regardless, I stil use them in my 45/70 for fun. Obviously, not full power, but managed loads.
You need to do more reloading videos with your brother when you get a chance this summer.
@@tank2449 I realize this is an old comment, but I must say that bullet types and weights are not hard on the gun; excessive pressure is. Work loads up according to what the rifle is rated to handle- the bullet's weight is amaterial.
Do you folks have any problems acquiring reloading components in England?
+TheProfessor Fate Hi there, the reloading for this film was Made in Montreal Canada. It was at my brothers place. I live in England we have no real issues here with reloading, you just have to have the correct paperwork for the bullets, powder etc.That is here in the England you are cleared by the police for various calibers depending on the game your hunting. So yes some restrictions but you apply and if you have a good reason say hunting, pest control or target shooting and belong to a club your in. other than criminal conviction then your just stuffed and prohibited for life from owning any type of fire arm or even an air gun!!!
Hope this answers your question.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
All the best Mark
Mark Yaylor Thank you for answering.
Enjoy!
FPS with 500gr bullet ?
venomman93 it’s around about 2000 FPS Thank you for watching 👍
It's a devastating caliber.
Meine CAM funktioniert nicht. Am Tag gute Bilder aber in der Nacht grottenschlecht echt schade
England and Australia need to take back their gun rights.
It sucks living in Marxists countries!
The .458 is a magnum and should use magnum primers only not WLR . p.s you will be happier with hornaday 350gn 76gn h335 at 2450fps dont need slow 500gn for anything. try it 350 will out shoot any 500+ gr you have been miss led with more 500. PP.s Machinists use there hands and make it right the first time, Engineers use paper and never get it right.
HORNADY. Large rifle primers work just fine as long as it’s not a compressed load. Always have. THEIR hands. 350 grain bullets are for a different use than 500. Talk about not getting things right...
How many bullets in a box ?
Vanilla Gorilla it was a while ago, but if memory serves me well it would have been about 10 rounds we made up. Hope this answers your question, thanks for watching merry Christmas
Mark
Normally 50 per box on 458 win mag, but some come 100 per box.
I can't believe you are handling the primers with your fingers! You should never touch the primers but, especially for a dangerous game cartridge!Your just asking for a misfire! Use a primer tray and a pick up tube! I've been loading the .458 win mag for over 40 yrs and have shot a lot of game including buffalo in Argentina. H4895 has always been the best powder with hornady 500 gr. bullets, CCI 250 magnum primers and a 24" barrel. If you have a chronograph start with 71 grs and gradually increase the charge until you reach 2130 to 2150fps. Usually 73grs will get you there with new hornady brass and 74grs with once fired cases. This is a compressed charge but if you seat the bullets slowly and use a heavy crimp it works great. This gets the great .458 win mag up to it's full intended potential with no pressure problems in hot weather and the brass lasts forever! I have many bigbore rifles including .416 Ruger and Rigby, .458 Lott, 450/400 nitro and many more but my favorite bigbore is still the .458 win mag.
I’ve fed primers by hand for decades. Never a misfire. But then I reload with clean hands.
I prefer the .416 calibers myself.
oil kills primers
Putting your primers where you just sprayed case lube is not what I call good reloading practice! Especially with a load you might use against dangerous game.
Ammo must be locked in a safe in Australia, I thought rifles other than airguns were not allowed in the UK
If hands are clean, the 'oil' problem is not a big deal. One notes the cartridges all seem to have fired. Yes, avoiding touching primers with bare hands is good practice. Lubricated cases are not all the same. Most current case lubes are designed to evaporate quickly and not foul primers. But being more careful is never amiss.
@@phmj Why on earth would you think guns other than air gun can't be owned in the UK? You can own all sorts of guns in the UK, from 22LR right up to 50cal. You just need a licence.
I was told that unless you owned a farm or something, you couldn't own firearms ,I know you don't need a license for a Air rifle in the UK where as you do in Australia,