Making a 4 way boring bar holder for my cheap Chinese lathe
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- This amateur machinist wannabe shows of his incredible skills by making a fantastic, awesome and amazing 4 way boring bar tool holder. The one tool holder holder to rule them all!!!
So hold on to your chair and try to get trough this boring video that probably should have been barred from the internet for safety reasons.
Want to support my video efforts, you could buy some shit through my Ebay and Banggood affiliated links below :)
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I really enjoyed your video. I loved that you did not cut out the sections where mistakes were made. I am new to machining and make mistakes all the time. I think I learned how to avoid a few after watching this! That is a nice boring bar holder you have made.
You crack me up! I love seeing your progress, been with you for a while and seeing your honest videos is refreshing. Thank you
May i suggest that you support the underside of your drill press table when drilling . It would take away the flex and make for a straighter hole.
I do have an old car jack for that, but I guess I forgot about it.
please buy a cheap drill press vice before you loose a finger
I might recommend using a bar clamp, as a substitute for no vice, set against the drill press column to control the grabbing bits.
That's a good idea for next time.
It's amazing how satisfying it can be watching drilling through a chunk of steel!
I think it's because it's almost the same as watching other people work :)
14:20 "Well, that's new!" Love it! Thanks for the laughs, good times!
I try to keep away from that trick these days :)
@@Rolingmetal You have some real cat like reflexes. Impressive!😜🍺
10:09 "oh now i got the punch stuck!!!" LOL - I feel so much better, welcome to my world HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHA
For things that won't fit in your vice, get a piece of plate (steel or aluminium, and thick enough to take a thread) as big as your drill table. Drill/tap a series of 8mm holes across the diagonals to match up with the slots in the table. Then screw in a couple of longish bolts, upwards through the slots in the table and close to the sides of your work-piece. This fastens the base plate to the table, and the bolts act as anti-rotation posts and save you from losing fingers when the drill grabs and stops the work-piece wanting to take off.
That's a good idea. Next time I'll make something like that.
first of all, don't hold the piece your drilling with your hands. Your hands move and it might get the drill to catch will reduce the accuracy (accuracy of the size of the hole, that is) at least try to use a wrench or woodworking clamps,
The biggest issue I saw in your setup considering the drill press, is it's sturdiness. You can see the table bending down when you apply pressure (this makes your drills catch like crazy!), maybe support the table with something (a jack for example).
Also, don't apply too much pressure, a good technique for weaker, less solid drill presses is 'pulsing' applying pressure for a half a second and then releasing, this helps in chip clearance and prevents the drill from catching (seems like a big problem in your case)
Thanks for the advice. That drill press table surely isn't the most sturdy piece of kit :)
You can easily re sharpen your twist drills on a bench grinder free hand. Plenty of videos on UA-cam. Stephon Wintergatan has a great one.
Reminds me of the hundreds of foul-ups I have had in the past. And at 68 still have my share.
It's the best way learn things. It also keeps things interesting :)
This guy needs to take a machine shop course. He is breaking every safety rule in the book I don't understand why he has not hurt himself real bad. He is an accident waiting to happen. He just keeps making the same mistake over and over.
The safety Nazi's got this guy as well. I though he would be more resistant at his age :)
I'm subscribing just so I can watch you eventually lose a finger.
When I stop uploading videos you can assume I lost a finger :)
peterthinks
We dont need discouraging comments here. He’s got a very entertaining channel. He knows the risks. We all get a little bold sometimes.
You know, between the "reaming action" and the "amateur action" you talk about in this video, you should have something that everyone wants to watch.
You know, I am an amateur action kind of guy :)
Good idea.
I like this idea, I hope you don't mind me copying it. BTW I do have a decent drill press vise so I won't be copying your finger smashing technique! I also have the same Banggood reamers. I drill .5mm undersize and the reamers cut very nicely. I was told to always leave a fair bit of material for the reamers to remove,and so far that was good advise. Nice video thanks for posting.
Go ahead, there is no patent and I doubt I would be the first to make it this way :)
I now also drill 0.5 mm undersize before reaming. Works fine.
Was this meant to be a comedy? After the third time the part went spinning around on the drill I was in tears. Hey thanks for the laugh, and glad you finished the project!
There were a few more spins of camera :)
The video description is hilarious! I liked the video though....Reminds me of some things that have happened to me in my hobby machine shop.....I expected to see more scarring on your hands....You must be a lucky guy...
I think the hole may have been oversized due to the combined run out of the spindle and the chuck. I suggest that if possible , you invest in some collets for tool holding. The other point to be wary of is if the hole is a proper size after drilling using oil on the reamer can make the hole oversized although I don't think that in most situations of hobby machining it really makes that much of a difference. Good luck and be safe.
why not chuck it back up in the lathe and counter bore the top center so you can get more than 3 or 4 thread engagement in the tool post stud. far easier than making a longer stud.. and the nice crank you showed at the end will clear the allen cap screws just fine. only take a few minutes..
You're right it needs a bit more thread engagement.
So I removed about 3 mm of the top. There's still more then enough thread for the setscrews.
I really should have started this project turning down the underside to create a nice boss to fit the compound slide.
how about counterboring the bottom for an disc to fit and align the block perfectly. make the disc first.. so it fits the pocket in the Fischer perfectly.
great video just an heads up when you ream, shut the spindle off then pull it out it will cut on the way out
Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try.
If you mounted the piece in a four jaw church and centered on the broken drill. Then clamp securely a small hole saw in the tailpost without the center drill ( using say an ER collet). Take out a slug with the piece of drill bit in it. Fill with a pre tapped dowel using locktite or equivalent.
But before that ...Turn your drill table to one side and drill a 6mm hole near the edge. Do the same on the opposite side. Then drill more holes in at intervals in the table spaced regularly between the two holes. Then go to your lathe and make two 'safety stoppers' 6mm on one end and about 12mm other end...These should slip snugly into your holes in the drill table with the large end sticking up. Now when you drill, drop in your 'safety stoppers' and drill safely.
Thank you for those tips. Getting good ideas/tips/feedback is the main reason I started this channel :)
Tell us you have got a vice by now.....? 🤣
For larger project like that that doesn't fit into Vice I like to use magnets that turn on and off nice project though give me a lot of good ideas
Interesting! Fortunately, I think I can bypass this for a while... videos are getting better man! Also, I dug out my computer. New lathe vid is up
Yeah, you probably have other priorities. Like playing with that new toy :)
Hello, use a vice to drill, so you won't break the drill bits.
Cheers!
I will, when I get one big enough :)
would have blocked it in with wood side screwed onto base then clamped it to the drill
I cringe when I see you hand hold the work on the drill press. I was not surprised at the small drill breaking due to the piece moving. You likely have clamps which can hold this, metal G clamps or wood work clamps.
Clamp a piece of wood across the drill press table, then clamp the work to the piece of wood.
Breaking through the bottom of holes is when my drill bits often spin in the chuck due to the forces.
I am glad you were able to complete the project. Looks good.
It wasn't ideal ,but I never felt in any danger, as my manhood was well below the possible flight trajectory of the workpiece :)
I tried an F clamp but the underside of the drill press table is not flat. Also the big clamp hits the workbench.
ps. I bought a "new" woodlathe :) Ever heard of the brand name Ramator?
You were lucky when the metal whipped around on the drill it did not hit your hand. A recent post on a machining forum a person said he broke his left wrist in a few places when a piece of metal he was hand holding on the drill press caught on the drill. These things happen fast.
I have not heard of Ramator lathes. I will have to look up. You do have a quite a collection of machines.
I agree, it's easy to get caught out.
Here's a picture of my new lathe. I've shot some video but I still need to edit it. We're having some nice weather, so that limits my time behind the computer.
lh3.googleusercontent.com/-KLFqcgFUEqg/WUKb2D8wPqI/AAAAAAAAALk/WsRN85pX4yA6bsel1si0KulbFEx4_f27QCJoC/w530-h298-p/P1110807.JPG
Thanks for the picture. That looks like a very nice lathe. I look forward to when you have time to make a video. Nice weather can mean outdoor activities.
If you cannot get clamps to hold the work down to the table secure the clamps horizontally to the work and hold the clamps instead, gives you more leverage and is safer although it would still tend to go up the drill bit when it gets through unless you'hold it down with some force.
Just an observation. Everyone else has mentioned vice for stability and the life of your drill bits so I'm not going there. But could you have annealed it first then re harden it when you are done? Just curious my friend. Keep up the good work though.
I don't know the material type, but annealing might have worked. But unfortunately I don't have the equipment to that.
Dude your one of them dangerous shop guys LOL
Very, you better believe it :)
Haha better to be more safe then sorry later BE SAFE brother!
....why are you not using a vice....?
See 14:40
Dont let the negative Nancy’s get to you!
btw...although expensive, Solid Carbide drills would make a cakewalk of drilling that tough stuff.
You Gatta be careful man! Take it from me, I use mills and lathes welders drill presses surface grinders, etc all just home hobby shop stuff. Always wore a face shield and gear. You know what almost took my eye tho? Tapping a hole! 1/4-20 carbide tap broke and shattered and an piece went THRU my eyeball. I lost about 25% of my vision in that eye but have 20/30. Wasn't fun. Always take precautions because when you fuck up, sometimes it sticks with you forever.
I am enjoying this, but surely you must have heard of "clamps"/ THEY CAN SAVE YOU A LOT OF MONEY IN DRILLS AND ALSO PREVENT NASTY ACCIDENTS
I'll google clamps :)
I actually tried to clamp it down using a F-clamp but the underside of the drill table isn't flat.
why did you not clamp it down? good idea though
If you want precision in the hole, you have to slow down the reamer, 50rpm is a good speed. nice project :)
Thanks for the advice I'll keep that in mind. Although the minimum speed of my lathe is a bit over 100 rpm. Another good reason to think about installing a VFD.
I feel it in my fingers
I feel it in my toes ♪ ♫ LOL
Please get yourself a larger drill vise! You'll save drill bits, parts and body parts.
Although a cheap drill press, its still powerful enough to tare a lump of skin from your hand . . and thats if your lucky .
This one doesn't bite.........hard :)
But I did make a clamp that bolt onto the table.
ua-cam.com/video/JNb3lOlwJpk/v-deo.html
I used to work for an engineering firm. There was this guy who had a finger missing and one eye missing. The lads christened him 'dangerous bob'
Thats a good nickname :)
why dont you use a nut and bolt on the drill bed so to have a stop to stop the job grabing and sping huggy
Probably because I'm lazy and not all that bright.
why dont you put a bolt through the drill plate and hold the job down to save your hand
I could say that bolting things down make it harder to line up the drill but.
But honestly, I didn't think about that option.
15:02 you have nuts and bolts for sure clamp it. anything is better than nothing
14:23 mayby now you clamp it down
Hahaha your idea of a high note is different than mine 😁. I'm not even a beginner machinist, but would it have been possible to swing your drill table and use two clamps .. or ? Don't want to see you get hurt just to entertain us. I saved your multi boring bar tool block idea for, hopefully. future. Thanks.
You could have done 2 other things to prevent loosing the part in the drill
Clamp it or put up a small backing plate to prevent it from rotating.
In my lathes video I do a similar job but this time I have the workpiece clamped down. Still I break two drill bits at the moment the drills break through :(
Use more oil to drill such big chunk
and use low rpm on reamers
Thanks for the advice.
Go for it. To hell with crybabies saying you will get hurt. Cool project.
People seem to be a bit obsessed with safety these days :)
16:21 you clamp it there nicely
Master of Desaster, but a very good Project😂
:)
Dude! I was adjusting the abortion lathe's apron and came back to see this video playing on the big screen. Have you ever invested in cobalt drill bits? I have been using nothing but cobalt since I first got them and haven't broken one yet...just sayin 🙂😀
you should euthanise that lathe and buy something American, like an Atlas ;)
Last summer I bought a small set of Banggood M35 cobalt drill bits. They are very decent. A lot better then the drill they sell in those red drill indexes.
BTW, have you seen these M42 cobalt drills: bit.ly/2Wu4qBt
Expensive but they have a very interesting grind.
I got a new BG contact and he's going to sent me the 1-10mm set :)
@@Rolingmetal nice...I have a set of BG cobalt bits..last thing I ordered from them..took 6 weeks to get to me. Had an Atlas...1934 vintage...and a 618...1965 vintage. I am getting this afterbirth from the birth of a real lathe actually working. I say they should describe these as a 90% completed machine and provide instructions on scraping, fitting, adjusting and just general finishing what they started. But...it is pretty well completed...until new bearings are called for.
Use vise to hold...
damn that tool length... nice idea anyway
kolay gelsin arkadaşa helalinden bir boru anahtarı alıverin sevabına saygılar yoksa matkap ucu kalmayacak bu gidişle
use vice
Now there's a thought :)
Hi! Can you make a review for your chinese lathe? Is it bvb25 model?
I could do that at some point. Never really considered it.
It's called the HBM BB25-3L but I'm sure it was also sold under other names.
Mine was made in 2009, I bought it slightly used in 2016.
Here's a picture. goo.gl/FvuY2K (I do have the milling attachment but it's defective)
It would be nice if you make review and tell about positive and negative sides of the lathe. And yes, it's the same lathe under different brand and name. I want to by it new, but not to much users information about it.
I'll see what I can do for you.
Meanwhile, you can watch this beauty: ua-cam.com/video/6xnnwLFikRU/v-deo.html
Thank you. Already watched it. Looks like that lathe had a hard life.)
Clamp the jobs down before you lose a hand
Solid advice. Will do, next time :)
olie, olie en nog eens olie
zowel voor boren alsook voor ruimen
stukje boren/ruimen , eruit, olie erop en verder gaan enz.
ruimen doe je trouwens op een veel lager toerental, werkt veel beter en de ruimer gaat veel langer mee
het verstellen van de hoek van de boorbeitel om op centerhoogte te komen zal niet echt werken
de hoek mag niet te groot worden
zodra de diameter toeneemt verandert de hoek ten opzichte van het materiaal
je kunt op die manier slechts een pass maken en dan moet de beitel weer gedraaid worden
je kunt wel het snijvlak van iedere beitel apart op centerhoogte slijpen dan is het probleem opgelost
afgezien daarvan: leuke video in de zin van dolkomisch
Bedankt van voor de tips, ik zal proberen ze toe te passen.
3 van de 4 beitels in de video hebben hun snijvlak redelijk in het midden van de beitel diameter.
De 12mm zit er behoorlijk naast dus daar zal een andere beitel voor moeten zoeken of maken.
De hoek van de beitel ten opzichte van het werkstuk (of center hoogte) verander niet als de diameter van het gat toeneemt. Of bedoel je misschien iets anders?
niet als de centerhoogte overeenkomt met een snijhoek van 0 graden
als je de centerhoogte bereikt door de hoek te veranderen , verandert de snijhoek wel als de diameter toeneemt
voorbeeld: de centerhoogte is eigenlijk te laag, je draait de beitel zo dat de punt van de beitel omhoogt wijst en op centerhoogte uitkomt, je hebt dus de snijhoek veel groter gemaakt
als je dan de diameter groter maakt wordt de snijhoek steeds groter
hetzelfde gebeurt als je boven of onder centerhoogte gaat werken
een beitel met een snijhoek van 0 graden precies op centerhoogte maakt een hoek van 90 graden ten opzichte van het werstuk
breng de beitel omhoog en de hoek neemt af, breng de beitel naar beneden en de hoek neemt toe
let wel ik heb het over inwendig draaien, bij uitwendig is het omgekeerd
trouwens het probleem van het meedraaien van het werkstuk bij het boren is eenvoudig op te lossen door een stel bouten in de sleuven van de tafel te draaien, het werkstuk stut zich dan af tegen de bouten, de dreukvan de boor houdt het naar beneden en de bouten voorkomen heet draaien
Put a c clamp on it
I LOVE IT.....complete with mistakes
MAN, was yelling the whole time. Get a Vise or a Clamp. Do not hold the piece with your hand. I'm Surprised you have all your Fingers.
Don't yell, you'll get spit on the monitor :)
take care till next time.
Kamikadze :)
I made one like yours and broke 2 taps lol. The story of my struggle.
Buy an EDM machine. Once you got one, you'll never break a tap again. :)
@@Rolingmetal hahaha I think I'm seriously considering it. But I've never operated one.
Makes me mad I broke 2 american-made taps vintage Craftsman brand.
Would have been better if you just broke a drill bit like I did :)
@@Rolingmetal you are right about that.
12:06 mayby you clamp it now
👍👍
get some large c lamps
G Clamp !
Don't have one. I have some F clamps but the underside of the drill table is not flat and that make them hard to use. The big ones also hit the workbench.
I saw the way you ream it's like you drilling, not good.
Slowest speed, lots of oil. But the holes drilled in this video were almost all oversized.
I'm sure you have threaded rod in the shop used that with large washers and nuts.you are beginning to scare me......you are a lucky guy, maybe we should call you lucky, only kidding...........always use a holding device no matter what....please..
Other people have pointed that out as well.
And I'm actually somewhat ashamed that I didn't come up with that idea myself.
Better stupid and lucky than smart and unlucky. Just hoping the luck won't run out :)
Nice project and I'm glad you didn't get injured, there was a lot of potential disaster waiting to happen. Just an idea, next time be sure to have the correct size bits if you're going to ream holes.
Yeah, but what are the right drill bit sizes. I think they should be at least 0.3mm underside.
I already have 0.5 undersized drills but that might be too much to ream.
This could get expensive because they don't sell these in sets and my biggest reamer is 20mm. A 19.7 mm drill isn't cheap.
Although it's probably fine to use a 19.5mm drill for a 20mm reamer but using a 4.5mm drill for a 5mm reamer might be a problem. Something to investigate a bit further someday :)
Hi Rolingmetal ! Looks like your drills have a good amount of runout what makes them drill oversize. Consider checking for that!
And if you like your fingers you might think twice about you drilling setup. A vise would be wise 😉
Ic. The vises are too small. How about a clamp?
What a clown this guy is .Is it a parody account how not to machine things . Some of the worst and dangerous action i have seen on you tube not be long before you are picking your hands up of the floor after they have wrapped round a drill press or drill bit.
Relax, the belt on the drill press is so loose you can almost stop it between thumb and finger.
Cringe worthy.Part doesn't fit your vice.
The part has a through holeBolt the bloody thing to the table.
Yep. A bolt would have been the best solution.
I'm still ashamed I didn't think of that.
Rolingmetal
Everything's simple In hindsight.
Nearly lost my fingers last weekend. Tightening up my cheap qctp a bit more amd the handle snapped. Glancing blow off the chuck. Very lucky.
The less risks taken the better.
clamps
Are a good idea.
not even a G clamp??? you want to hurt yourself and break tools...
I don't own one of those :)
یعنی خاک تو اون سرت با این کار کردنت60 تا مته شکوند!!!!
Poor workshop practices
Yes. Maybe I'll get better :)