Thanks Peter, I'm a builder but don't do much lead work, however every time I do a chimney I watch this great series of videos. So, thanks again . . and thanks also from all the people I work for who get good leadwork on their chimneys.
This is great to see. It is far superior to the methods we use in the states. Everything is about speed here. I wish i was able to do this sort of work. We use the lead as soakers (as you call them) and step flashing all in one piece. We step the lead up and flash under the shingles with the same piece of lead, so for each step a different piece of lead is used. The next piece is then flashed over the preceding one. It is water tight, but the quality of work is not the same as your method.
Thanks for sharing this video. I have just completed flashing my chimney and dormer, following your instructions, and it looks fantastic. This was a diy-job on a last century house based in northern Germany. My builders where flabbergasted by this technique, but liked it very much. No silicon or sealant where used, great!
Thanks for that, its good for the sole. The purpose of the film is to share bits and pieces with other interested people and promote the sale of the various flashing we make and sell online. Our company is Just Lead. From what i can see, no body seems to be offering similar in the USA. I consider it to be an opportunity for someone over there. Good Luck
Yes I am. Well Holloway, Nr Nags Head. Thanks for you comments. Practicing with filming gear at moment. I will be starting on a lead welding video in the New year. Good Luck
@c6gav Hi With both slates and tiles (not intelocking) soakers are used. These can be made from sheet lead, copper or zinc. The piece will be 180 mm wide and bent with 100 mm for between slates / tiles and 80 mm up the brick, stone or block work, this upstand is covered by the flashing .
As Steve Berg says, these step flashings are different in Wales, being cut from individual lengths of 300mm (1ft) flashing usually Code 4. We have real wind and rain here. Also Steve you can use a grinder to cut out, so long as you cut out all the mortar with it. My 115mm grinder with a diamond disc gives me 32mm depth max. There are many kinds of caulking (not corking!) iron, which sort do you use m8?
Thanks for this.. the plonker who 'renovated' my house before I bought it did a lazy arse job and did not step the flashing in, he just did a straight line down! I'm now paying the price for that with leak/damp seeping through the spare room where the chimney comes thru. Wish my surveyor had flagged the crappy job! Should have knocked off a load of money off the house price to compensate the cost! I'm going to be replacing slipped tiles and lead valley myself... depending how well I get on I may attempt to fix the chimney flashing whilst up there now! But what is the deciding factor on the angle of the cut? I'm not in a coastal/exposed area... so is the 45% cut fairly standard? When would you advocate 90% cut? Is it more waterproof?
I can tell you have done that before.....I very rarely come across a plumber who can do step-flashing.....that's why I usually end up doing it myself.....I find it useful to fit 2 diamond -discs in the cutter to get the groove wide enough with one cut...I also think it looks better if the last step finishes on the same course as the front apron.I like your bending method with the groove in the lath,I will be using that next time.....Good educational video for you plumbers out there.
I really like the video, it is an inspiration to Do It Myself but in copper. Your marking method does not seem to work on a low pitch roof. Mine is a hip roof (over the front porch), with a less than 3:12 pitch, against a brick facade. Your marking method gives very acute angles; any suggestions? I plan to just make a template with a good looking angle and mark to the edge of my copper from the "water line".
First of all, the person who mentioned counter flashing, all building techniques differ through out the world depending on climate etc. Counter flashing a chimney with plastic and silicone would destroy the chimney over time in the UK. I have just taken down (unfortunately) a church chimney below roof line. The stone crumbled as I dismantled it. In the UK this man is classed as a skilled craftsman (and is) Dont sit in usa and comment on UK techniques with ignorantly disrespecting UK skills..
@justlead1 can you up load a vid showing how it works..?? I think your work is great..! if sumone who dosen,t know what they are doing like myself. if they get it wrong the roof can leak.! under the slate!its like half the video is missing going from the front apron and then to finshing the step flashing! thanks
Can I ask you how do slate a roof using double slates on every other run. when u use the standed way. u start with 250m then your 350m half so u get the over lap on each slate. and so on up the roof. but dose it work with the doubles
Hi. Give it a try with a length of paper. say 170 mm /200 mm wide, 65 mm water line The steps will be long, and the angle between courses can be formed to create the aesthetics you like. Defiantly paper first.
Hi. Jim see ware you are coming from. The reason how ever is with only 3.5 inches you are restricted in achieving the diagonal over lap. When turning at the front there would be insufficient height. Thanks for your comments
dose anyone know how the under flashing works which runs up the side of the chimney and under the slates..?? water can run under the step flashing and drip in to the roof..! dose the flat stop it if it was being used..??
Thanks for the video. Im planning a DIY conservatory and now realise I should get the flashing done by a pro for a neat job like yours… HOWEVER, please PLEASE use a dust mask when grinding the mortar. Grinding can releases free silica from the sand in the mortar. Silicosis kills thousands of people every year, its like asbestoses, you can breath it 200 times but only takes once to get you… and kill you 10 years later.
why is there 3inch cuts of slate up the chimney? should cut a blank slate down to a slate and a half.i would be thrown off site if i slated a roof like that,and why did you have the front apron made???? carnt you boss one??
Thanks for your interesting point. Each situation differs, Methods change in the regions of the UK and the world. Tradition applies by area as to match local methods nominated in some cases by Architecs and severity, etc. Single overlapping steps seem to be favoured as example in the Bristol / Avon area of Britain. Tools have evolved making the flashing tasks of cutting chases to brickwork, stonework etc much easier, which allows visual change of the situation but with compliance when flashing to keep the internal structure of the building dry.
@@1starshot as long as you give plenty of overlap there shouldn't be a problem with waterproofing, it's just the way I would have done it. But I know exactly what you mean
This is horribly wrong, please do not follow the example shown here. Consult the British Lead Association’s guide for the correct dimensions and details for installing step flashing and lead aprons. Work of this nature requires skilled professional undertaking and should not be attempted by enthusiastic amateurs, doing so will only incur expensive corrective measures at a later date, not long after the next heavy rainfall.
This video should be called “HOW NOT TO DO A STEP FLASHING!! Lead is far to wide, you simply need 150mm/ 6 inch lead what you done is extreme and a waste of lead, id ask you to leave the site if you did this. It’s a disgrace. Also you over complicate the simplest of flashing. Maybe you should reconsider your job.
Thanks Peter, I'm a builder but don't do much lead work, however every time I do a chimney I watch this great series of videos. So, thanks again . . and thanks also from all the people I work for who get good leadwork on their chimneys.
7l
Thanks Peter you just described and demonstrated this better than anywhere else I could find.
This is great to see. It is far superior to the methods we use in the states. Everything is about speed here. I wish i was able to do this sort of work. We use the lead as soakers (as you call them) and step flashing all in one piece. We step the lead up and flash under the shingles with the same piece of lead, so for each step a different piece of lead is used. The next piece is then flashed over the preceding one. It is water tight, but the quality of work is not the same as your method.
Thanks for sharing this video. I have just completed flashing my chimney and dormer, following your instructions, and it looks fantastic. This was a diy-job on a last century house based in northern Germany. My builders where flabbergasted by this technique, but liked it very much. No silicon or sealant where used, great!
I need to do mine as it has a leak but damn I think it is far above me. I can redo my roof but that damn Chimney.
Hi Thanks for your comments. I used that method on the other side of the hock chimney but have not posted the video.
Regards
Peter Scholey
the man knows what hes at, good job and explained well
brilliant, I'm studying plumbing right now and part of my course consists of sheet lead weathering and chimney flashing, this vid helps alot, thanks!
Thanks Peter, easy instructions to follow, clear and concise thank you very much indeed Sir !!!!
Thanks for that, its good for the sole. The purpose of the film is to share bits and pieces with other interested people and promote the sale of the various flashing we make and sell online. Our company is Just Lead. From what i can see, no body seems to be offering similar in the USA. I consider it to be an opportunity for someone over there. Good Luck
Yes I am. Well Holloway, Nr Nags Head.
Thanks for you comments. Practicing with filming gear at moment. I will be starting on a lead welding video in the New year.
Good Luck
Nice video.Good explanation of why everything is done the way it is.
@c6gav
Hi With both slates and tiles (not intelocking) soakers are used. These can be made from sheet lead, copper or zinc. The piece will be 180 mm wide and bent with 100 mm for between slates / tiles and 80 mm up the brick, stone or block work, this upstand is covered by the flashing .
Thanks Kurt
Its comments like that which push me to create more.
Thanks again.
怎样装天窗
Thank you so much for this video
Thanks for the video!
@sssam80 Thanks for your comments its nice to here from an expert. Perhaps i can look forward to you posting a video of you work?
Totally agree with you mate.
very good clear instruction no bull thankyou for that. any info on creating a box by bossing or is welding the way to go ?
are you from islington?
As Steve Berg says, these step flashings are different in Wales, being cut from individual lengths of 300mm (1ft) flashing usually Code 4. We have real wind and rain here. Also Steve you can use a grinder to cut out, so long as you cut out all the mortar with it. My 115mm grinder with a diamond disc gives me 32mm depth max. There are many kinds of caulking (not corking!) iron, which sort do you use m8?
Thanks for this.. the plonker who 'renovated' my house before I bought it did a lazy arse job and did not step the flashing in, he just did a straight line down!
I'm now paying the price for that with leak/damp seeping through the spare room where the chimney comes thru.
Wish my surveyor had flagged the crappy job! Should have knocked off a load of money off the house price to compensate the cost!
I'm going to be replacing slipped tiles and lead valley myself... depending how well I get on I may attempt to fix the chimney flashing whilst up there now!
But what is the deciding factor on the angle of the cut?
I'm not in a coastal/exposed area... so is the 45% cut fairly standard?
When would you advocate 90% cut? Is it more waterproof?
Thanks pete very helpful!!!
I can tell you have done that before.....I very rarely come across a plumber who can do step-flashing.....that's why I usually end up doing it myself.....I find it useful to fit 2 diamond -discs in the cutter to get the groove wide enough with one cut...I also think it looks better if the last step finishes on the same course as the front apron.I like your bending method with the groove in the lath,I will be using that next time.....Good educational video for you plumbers out there.
Great explanation 👌 thank you
Great video 👌
great job thumbs up
you got the vid of when you welded up that stack tray, nice work by the way.
I really like the video, it is an inspiration to Do It Myself but in copper. Your marking method does not seem to work on a low pitch roof. Mine is a hip roof (over the front porch), with a less than 3:12 pitch, against a brick facade. Your marking method gives very acute angles; any suggestions? I plan to just make a template with a good looking angle and mark to the edge of my copper from the "water line".
First of all, the person who mentioned counter flashing, all building techniques differ through out the world depending on climate etc. Counter flashing a chimney with plastic and silicone would destroy the chimney over time in the UK. I have just taken down (unfortunately) a church chimney below roof line. The stone crumbled as I dismantled it. In the UK this man is classed as a skilled craftsman (and is) Dont sit in usa and comment on UK techniques with ignorantly disrespecting UK skills..
snidger33. 6
@justlead1 can you up load a vid showing how it works..?? I think your work is great..! if sumone who dosen,t know what they are doing like myself. if they get it wrong the roof can leak.! under the slate!its like half the video is missing going from the front apron and then to finshing the step flashing! thanks
great stuff.
Very nice thanks
Can I ask you how do slate a roof using double slates on every other run. when u use the standed way. u start with 250m then your 350m half so u get the over lap on each slate. and so on up the roof. but dose it work with the doubles
Brilliant, very well explained, top man!!!!
Hi. Give it a try with a length of paper. say 170 mm /200 mm wide, 65 mm water line
The steps will be long, and the angle between courses can be formed to create the aesthetics you like. Defiantly paper first.
Hi. Jim see ware you are coming from. The reason how ever is with only 3.5 inches you are restricted in achieving the diagonal over lap. When turning at the front there would be insufficient height.
Thanks for your comments
Proper 👍🏻
Peter are you a roofer or just specialise in lead??
Can you do installing soakers video thanks
so didn't grind them in the recommended 25mm?
allso its 6/7 inch lead for cover flashing god knows what size you used
dose anyone know how the under flashing works which runs up the side of the chimney and under the slates..?? water can run under the step flashing and drip in to the roof..! dose the flat stop it if it was being used..??
@josifulis Zinc is no good in mortar because of calcium and steel rusts
why use lead wouldnt zink or steel flashing do the same thing?
Is it possible just to wedge fix the old flashing back in and re-point?
Pat Breslin do you want the tradesman to turn up on a horse aswell? 🤠
Thanks for the video. Im planning a DIY conservatory and now realise I should get the flashing done by a pro for a neat job like yours… HOWEVER, please PLEASE use a dust mask when grinding the mortar. Grinding can releases free silica from the sand in the mortar. Silicosis kills thousands of people every year, its like asbestoses, you can breath it 200 times but only takes once to get you… and kill you 10 years later.
cheerz m8 ur a diomond!
Hi. There was a lead association in Madison Ave NY. You may be able to check it out on the internet? Good Luck
regards
Peter Scholey
@justlead1 Any roofing supply house. Home Depot also has rolls of lead.
look this vid : "THE REAL ROOFER "
click on the first vid
thats quality
how awkward did he make that red line black line complicated way of doing it I'll give you that mate
I thought lead flashings are not often used due to health issues, and that aluminum or zinc is a better alternative.
at 33 secs sat down and broke a slate
why is there 3inch cuts of slate up the chimney? should cut a blank slate down to a slate and a half.i would be thrown off site if i slated a roof like that,and why did you have the front apron made???? carnt you boss one??
No fun messing with asbestos roof tiles
Water will piss through that.
Wouldn't it be easier to use individual flashings? Much easier and quicker
Thanks for your interesting point. Each situation differs, Methods change in the regions of the UK and the world. Tradition applies by area as to match local methods nominated in some cases by Architecs and severity, etc. Single overlapping steps seem to be favoured as example in the Bristol / Avon area of Britain. Tools have evolved making the flashing tasks of cutting chases to brickwork, stonework etc much easier, which allows visual change of the situation but with compliance when flashing to keep the internal structure of the building dry.
@@justlead1 great reply Peter.
And you've got a valid point
This is far superior to individual flashings imo. The less cuts there are the better for waterproofing.
@@1starshot as long as you give plenty of overlap there shouldn't be a problem with waterproofing, it's just the way I would have done it. But I know exactly what you mean
TOO MUCH......merci
OMG.. That's a terrible way to counterflash. What are you drinking? Wind blown rain goes in at every course.
Carton dental maynooth
This is horribly wrong, please do not follow the example shown here.
Consult the British Lead Association’s guide for the correct dimensions and details for installing step flashing and lead aprons.
Work of this nature requires skilled professional undertaking and should not be attempted by enthusiastic amateurs, doing so will only incur expensive corrective measures at a later date, not long after the next heavy rainfall.
looks awfull omg
This video should be called “HOW NOT TO DO A STEP FLASHING!! Lead is far to wide, you simply need 150mm/ 6 inch lead what you done is extreme and a waste of lead, id ask you to leave the site if you did this. It’s a disgrace. Also you over complicate the simplest of flashing. Maybe you should reconsider your job.