Thanks for the post flow tip. I was welding aluminum with PoF set to the machine default of 2 seconds. My tungsten was always a dull black, and often times the start of the weld would be dirty. Changed the PoF to 6 seconds. The tungsten is shiny and the start of the bead is clean. Many thanks.
The post flow tip was fantastic! I couldn't figure out why my tungsten was burned after a pass. Now I have adjusted the post flow it always remains shiny.
I cannot express enough gratitude for you putting these videos together - Top notch quality. Excellent and informative content. Keep up the great work! Your tips are indeed helping!
1977 I learned how to weld with an AC/DC machine. It had a lever for AC setting or DC setting. Had a lever for High range or Low range. A wheel dial to set amps. The decal for amps faded and rubbed off. Turn the wheel to that should do it. Strike arc on practice piece turn wheel up or down to that might be right! Strike arc on practice piece awww that’s it! I welded by the seat of my pants,,,,,,,feel,,,,,,,sound,,,,,,,sight. I’m 67 and think back on the “O.J.T.” Listening to the old timers,,,,,,,watching the old timers then go to the welding table and try to imitate what the old timers were doing! Thanks to all the old timers who took time to show me the right and wrong of various types of welding!
Ive been tig welding stainless for 2.5years… sheet metal, just recently started dabbling into aluminum work this helped me spot what may have been my issue the entire time trying this aluminum project, not enough post flow and taking the torch away from workpiece to soon
I have a job at the shop right now & I totally failed at it. I have scanned UA-cam & Google for suggestions on my HTP221 inverter & man … am I glad I found your channel. . THANK YOU!
Thanks! You are correct. Even though the charts give a ballpark, I'm trying to make notes in a book of heat settings with my materials, and see what works, and what doesn't........ A learning experience for sure! So grateful that you take the time to explain things!!!!!!!!!!!👍
I find your channel very informative & subscribed. I have zero experience TIG welding, but plan to buy a machine soon. I have only used flux & mig the past few years. No professional experience or training. Just learning as I go. A hobby I picked up after retiring the military. Glad I found your channel. Thank you
The different settings is fact. Where I work we mig and tig aluminum I get the joy of getting the new people set up and started, every mig machine will put the same beads down with different settings gotta find the right settings for each one.
Dang, that was text Book explanation, I'm just getting started, ( no school ). You did a very good, simple explanation. You should be teaching classes under your own private school. Thank you !!
I like to check in on fabrication and welding videos from time to time....most are very useful but yours is by far the most useful for welding. Keep up the great work and sharing your information...I'll be glad to share your work and subscribe.
You are a very talented Tig welder! You mentioned balance control should be around around 80 neg & 20 pos. Which is fine, but you can only achieve that using an inverter. With conventional transformer types you will be limited from 68 to possibly 72 with different brands. Most will me 68 percent neg max on the balance. The tungsten will not stay sharp. You can not adjust frequency on transformer power sources ,so you loose arc focus. And third, with some inverters you have a amplitude setting also called offset to focus every move energy farther to the pos or neg side of the arc. Which also can improve tungsten life and keep the tungsten sharp when welding thicker aluminum. 😎🇺🇸👨🏭
Your video’s are awesome. You’ve helped me tremendously. One video I would like to see is the feeder Rod hand in action. Camera set up on your hand as you weld and feed the rod. Thanks for all your help. Jimmy
Your cleaning or balance settings will greatly affect your current settings with AC welding. With the cleaning set high positive, your electrode will glow much more and melt the tip much easier. I heard him talk about this as I was typing. I typically run 30%.
I have a vintage Lincoln Square wave tig 175, and the pre flow is 5 secs, post flow is 10 secs and you can’t change that, nope! This transformer 84kgs beast has an auto balance 😳 meaning that you turn the knob up or down for your desire Amperage! Shining welds and shiny tungsten everytime, guaranteed 😁
You probably already know this, but if you press in the adjustment dial while adjusting, you'll move by 10-amp increments on your PowerTIG 255EXT. Cool feature. Great video. Thank you!
one thing I would like to see in a video of the future is how to analyze heat input while welding. I understand penetration but sometimes I have high amperage and the weld is glowing hot. The same with low amperage. A lot of welders talk about "saturating" but don't really explain it very well. A tutorial on this would be nice.
And time is money so stop dragging out the videos with all the stupid childish funny haha's from tattoo boy. Get to the point and don't belabor it, we can rewind on jTube. This video could have been 3 minutes yet it was almost 13 ffs!!
Tighten up your arc length the tig is a scalpel, tighter arc will minimize your heat affected zone, large arc is like gas oxy ace welding. Tig is tight!
Also never forget along with amperage, Tungsten arc length and Time all effect the heat effected zone. So even if you have the amperage set right & the arc length good if you dwell in one spot to long you will still dump to much heat. Also what helps is the size of the filler rod, if you're welding 1/16" stock and using 1/8" filler rod you will over heat the weld. I have the same issue.
I weld hardened thick tool steel like D-2 and A-2 that’s pre heated to around 500 degrees , I keep my amps at around 175 amps , capping a chipped cutting edge sometimes melts leaving voids if the amps are too high
One thing that caught me was when welding aluminum, you speak about Balance being DC.. but we're welding AC. Am I missing something here with understanding ?
Very clear and valuable information for anyone not yet great at TIG welding, and that definitely include me. 😟 Now, is there any way to ensure the tungsten electrode don't touch the weldpool, or the filler rod for that matter, apart from skillful control, or to some extend, by using a "walk the cup" method to basically wriggle the ceremic gas nozzle so it, "walk along" at an angle and pace to suit the job.? 🙄 ☆ Niels.
I will try this. My shop is letting me practice TIG when the flux core work is done. Nobody around to guide me so I am toying my way through learning. I practice filets on 1/4 carbon steel. I knew it was too low tonight at 120a. Will try 250a next time. I was able to do a pretty nice lap joint on stainless (for the handle of my hanging Skyjack toolbox) with 110a. It was about 1/8” thick
@@1979Spica I'd be willing to bet 250 is too high at full pedal but as he said it's a good place to start and work from. Just remember welding is about balance, keeping travel speed, filler diameter, amperage, etc all in balance. Higher amps will often require higher travel speed, and at some point larger filler to match the puddle size created from all that amperage. Experience will help you refine the amp per thou guideline and you'll just memorize ranges per thickness after enough arc time
the chart doesn't mean anything. i could crank my Lincoln 450 to the max , my brain controlling everything. the foot pedal my travel speed is a skill. it depend on people.
@@bjireton Late to the party, but I think you missed the point in your rush to boast. No matter how good your foot pedal control is you're gonna struggle not to melt both you and the piece you're working at 19k amps. You'll need 43 of your Lincolns connected in parallel to reach that level.
I would also add another item for a source of contamination. This would be that all the components on the torch are properly tightened. I recently had a problem when welding aluminum where I could not get a decent bead. I check my torch and the collet and screen had become loose. I tightened them up and the problem was solved.
80/20 is a bit extreme. Is that that you normally use? General recommendation is 70/30. I usually use that. Sometimes 75/25, but that’s rare unless I’m using a lot of current on thick aluminum where a smaller amount of cleaning is still a lot of power. I’ve done 60/40 for thinner material with low current.
Why does my tungsten ball always get bad spots on it. I can ball it and it want be a min and it starts to have particles on tip . Thanks and enjoy your videos.
Dusty, Can I make suggestion for us that are learning and in the vids we sometimes can't see what material you are welding for any certain tip you are talking about? I know that sounds confusing but there are so many variables in welding each materials (I know some ate constant) but some of us get confused with the variables on each material. Hope you understand this request?
Im not welder , don't have license just hobby and I got my first machine for Christmas. I'm good in electronics and programing,so I'm curious if I make a wire feeder with arduino and stepper motor ,just like 3d printer,then is will work? I mean if you can feed the wire by hand then with stepper motor should work also isn't?
Just a question, when welding aluminium I thought you were meant to us AC? You mentioned DC during the sine form explanation. Other than that a great video as per normal Dusty. Thank you. 😀
It's just a way to explain it. You could say that if you pass the AC current through a diode to cut off the bottom part of the sine wave then you're left with a DC + voltage even though it's a sine. It's just semantics.
We use AC for welding as a polarity, you are correct about that:) When using AC, this will cycle between the two polarities of DC+ and DC-. It took me a bit to get this one when I was going to school, but happy to share it here🤙 Thanks for watching🔥
AC is alternating direction of current flow. From the outlet that's 50% positive, 50% negative 60 times per second (or only 50 in europe). An invertor welder converts that to DC in the direction of your choice, making your electrode either the positive or negative side of the circuit. It can invert the direction of current flow anytime you want. If you chose to alternate that direction frequently we simply refer to that as alternating current again. Some prefer to think of it as AC, some as switched direction DC. Referring to it as DC+ for 20% of the cycle seems simpler than throwing in another new term like "duty cycle" which is probably a good thing for quick videos. On the other hand, some people tend to think of AC as being a sinusoidal waveform, but most welders would be a square wave. It's just a semantic battle.
@@twinchargedmr2 Not sure what’s going on in your life to be so negative. I’m an electrician by trade so know quite a lot about it’s uses. TIG welding; however, I am new to and am learning. But thanks for your input all the same.
I rtry to go by the gauges but I still go by how it performs , I turn up if the welder is crackling too much and turn down if it gets to much a hum and that black on edges , some welders just weld hot and some weld cold , could be dirty or just cheap
I just got a inverter Tig welder and while practicing the torch arc will sometimes strobe (turns off and on rapidly) other times it give a continuous arc from the torch. Can you tell me what is causing the strobing of the arc and how to eliminate it.
jody at welding tips and tricks done a video on a machine that didn't have ac balance but i forget which machine and he said it had a little to much cleaning for new clean material and it left a large area of cleaning around the weld.. personally I wouldn't touch a machine that didn't have an adjustable ac balance because it has to much cleaning for new clean material and probably not enough cleaning for the old crap i normally weld and it'd be near completely useless for welding cast, plus if you had something that was really pushing the limits in thickness you wouldn't be able to clean the hell out of it and set more ac negative to get the most heat possible.. having no ac balance adjustment is really limiting what you can do
Could you guys please do a real world video of how to fix alluminum tig welding where everything clumps up and does not penetrate and blows hole into the base material? You keep showing perfect situations where we are not achieving or even getting close to. All youtubers that I have watched does the same perfect weld that i barely achieve one second then lose.
The most important thing is to be able to see the weld properly, what I mean by that is, the right brightness in the helmet, extra glass with if it doesn't help with glasses. Then it is important to always keep the same width of the weld, look at the melt, keep the same width and drip in filler wire at an even speed, eg 1 2 3, 1 2 3, 1 2 3, etc..
I'm an old skool welder. Not a lot of tig welding. More mig and cracker box welding. Working in a big shop with lots of guys. All the settings are changed on the welders all the time. Mostly by guys who have no idea what they are doing in the 1st place. They can't weld to begin with. So they twist on every knob hoping to make magic happen. So I never change the settings unless I just absolutely have to. I've learned to adapt to how it's set and move on. So settings is not something I'm good at. That's why I might ask what settings you use. Regardless of the machine. It would give me a starting point. This might give you the idea I'm not a very good welder. But, I can weld a bulls ass if you can hold him still. LOL
Post flow should not be to protect the tungsten which is a consumable, but to protect the stop start from oxidisation on a joint which is subject to radiographic test. Eg: wormhole.
Unless you're grinding your tip before every weld any contamination on it will go straight into your weld pool. So sure the tip is consumable but having a few seconds post flow even when welding aluminium is good advice.
@rexp5350 If your tungsten touches the weld, no post flow will eliminate tungsten inclusion. And aluminium requires a rounded off tungsten. Sharpen it after every start if you want.
@@scoobeydoooo You're right about the tip shape, but then I didn't say sharpen. Obviously the post flow won't help if you've dipped but it does prevent oxidation, which is probably the word I should've used to prevent confusion. You don't have to take my word for it, here's what my Miller manual says "Postflow is required to cool tungsten and weld, and to prevent contamination of tungsten and weld. Increase postflow time if tungsten or weld are dark in appearance."
💎💎💎Take a FREE online Tig class on my website HERE👉 www.pacificarctigwelding.com/
Thanks for the post flow tip. I was welding aluminum with PoF set to the machine default of 2 seconds. My tungsten was always a dull black, and often times the start of the weld would be dirty. Changed the PoF to 6 seconds. The tungsten is shiny and the start of the bead is clean. Many thanks.
The post flow tip was fantastic! I couldn't figure out why my tungsten was burned after a pass. Now I have adjusted the post flow it always remains shiny.
I cannot express enough gratitude for you putting these videos together - Top notch quality. Excellent and informative content. Keep up the great work! Your tips are indeed helping!
1977 I learned how to weld with an AC/DC machine. It had a lever for AC setting or DC setting. Had a lever for High range or Low range. A wheel dial to set amps. The decal for amps faded and rubbed off. Turn the wheel to that should do it. Strike arc on practice piece turn wheel up or down to that might be right! Strike arc on practice piece awww that’s it! I welded by the seat of my pants,,,,,,,feel,,,,,,,sound,,,,,,,sight. I’m 67 and think back on the “O.J.T.” Listening to the old timers,,,,,,,watching the old timers then go to the welding table and try to imitate what the old timers were doing! Thanks to all the old timers who took time to show me the right and wrong of various types of welding!
Ive been tig welding stainless for 2.5years… sheet metal, just recently started dabbling into aluminum work this helped me spot what may have been my issue the entire time trying this aluminum project, not enough post flow and taking the torch away from workpiece to soon
I have a job at the shop right now & I totally failed at it. I have scanned UA-cam & Google for suggestions on my HTP221 inverter & man … am I glad I found your channel. . THANK YOU!
How do you like your machine? HTP 221
Nice video! Im in my TIG/Orbital class right now and the rule we learned in 1 second postflow per 10 amps as a baseline
For steel. More for stainless, less for aluminum. Same on cfh #'s too.
Thanks! You are correct. Even though the charts give a ballpark, I'm trying to make notes in a book of heat settings with my materials, and see what works, and what doesn't........ A learning experience for sure! So grateful that you take the time to explain things!!!!!!!!!!!👍
Well said dude. I really appreciate the dude on the fabrication series when he does give out his settings.
I find your channel very informative & subscribed. I have zero experience TIG welding, but plan to buy a machine soon. I have only used flux & mig the past few years. No professional experience or training. Just learning as I go. A hobby I picked up after retiring the military. Glad I found your channel. Thank you
On that aluminum I like to crank it up!! That foot peddle does the rest for me!! Your welds look good!! Perfect push
The different settings is fact. Where I work we mig and tig aluminum I get the joy of getting the new people set up and started, every mig machine will put the same beads down with different settings gotta find the right settings for each one.
Thanks!
Your right on what you said boss , the best setting is it depends on your machine, different brand different size of machine different settings.
I really appreciate the time and effort you put into these videos Dusty. Lots of great information here.
Dang, that was text Book explanation, I'm just getting started, ( no school ). You did a very good, simple explanation. You should be teaching classes under your own private school. Thank you !!
Haven't welded in years,learned to tig with petal..
But i always set machines by sight and sound..and experience is definitely key..
I like to check in on fabrication and welding videos from time to time....most are very useful but yours is by far the most useful for welding.
Keep up the great work and sharing your information...I'll be glad to share your work and subscribe.
Thanks man. Cleared up some stuff. Nobody ever taught me. I’m just teaching myself. And I tried.034” aluminum today and failed miserably. Lol.
You are a very talented Tig welder! You mentioned balance control should be around around 80 neg & 20 pos. Which is fine, but you can only achieve that using an inverter. With conventional transformer types you will be limited from 68 to possibly 72 with different brands. Most will me 68 percent neg max on the balance. The tungsten will not stay sharp. You can not adjust frequency on transformer power sources ,so you loose arc focus. And third, with some inverters you have a amplitude setting also called offset to focus every move energy farther to the pos or neg side of the arc. Which also can improve tungsten life and keep the tungsten sharp when welding thicker aluminum.
😎🇺🇸👨🏭
I'm really diggin' your videos! Very helpful and well explained. Thanks!!
Your video’s are awesome. You’ve helped me tremendously. One video I would like to see is the feeder Rod hand in action. Camera set up on your hand as you weld and feed the rod. Thanks for all your help.
Jimmy
Your cleaning or balance settings will greatly affect your current settings with AC welding.
With the cleaning set high positive, your electrode will glow much more and melt the tip much easier. I heard him talk about this as I was typing. I typically run 30%.
Thanks!
I have a vintage Lincoln Square wave tig 175, and the pre flow is 5 secs, post flow is 10 secs and you can’t change that, nope! This transformer 84kgs beast has an auto balance 😳 meaning that you turn the knob up or down for your desire Amperage! Shining welds and shiny tungsten everytime, guaranteed 😁
Awesome video, now I understand the post flow on the tungsten. Thank you so much.
Thankyou very much for going into detail wirh these 3 best settings , very helpful and apreciated well done mate 👏👏👏👏👌
Good advice... your videos are helpful as I develop this skillset.
Thanks so much for checking it out!
You probably already know this, but if you press in the adjustment dial while adjusting, you'll move by 10-amp increments on your PowerTIG 255EXT. Cool feature. Great video. Thank you!
one thing I would like to see in a video of the future is how to analyze heat input while welding. I understand penetration but sometimes I have high amperage and the weld is glowing hot. The same with low amperage. A lot of welders talk about "saturating" but don't really explain it very well. A tutorial on this would be nice.
And time is money so stop dragging out the videos with all the stupid childish funny haha's from tattoo boy. Get to the point and don't belabor it, we can rewind on jTube. This video could have been 3 minutes yet it was almost 13 ffs!!
Tighten up your arc length the tig is a scalpel, tighter arc will minimize your heat affected zone, large arc is like gas oxy ace welding. Tig is tight!
@@douglassmith2055 I see. How tight are we talking. Like as close as possible or like half a mm
Also never forget along with amperage, Tungsten arc length and Time all effect the heat effected zone. So even if you have the amperage set right & the arc length good if you dwell in one spot to long you will still dump to much heat. Also what helps is the size of the filler rod, if you're welding 1/16" stock and using 1/8" filler rod you will over heat the weld. I have the same issue.
Depends on torch rating too. Max amps on one of my torches is 90A.
Very good informative information as always Dusty. Thank you.
just getting back to aluminum tig welding, this is a great re-fresher video. i keep saying oh ya.
Thanks for sharing these tips, cleared up some questions I had while a dabbled with tig welding😅
I weld hardened thick tool steel like D-2 and A-2 that’s pre heated to around 500 degrees , I keep my amps at around 175 amps , capping a chipped cutting edge sometimes melts leaving voids if the amps are too high
Great info. I like learning the tips and tricks that make a pro.
Very well put together, with simple and detailed info, thanks!
Thanks so much! I appreciate you watching, all the best to you🤙🔥
One thing that caught me was when welding aluminum, you speak about Balance being DC.. but we're welding AC. Am I missing something here with understanding ?
Do you have any sugestions for how long on witch amperage to leave postflow on. Is there some.sort of a chart? Like for cup size and gas flow chart.
Very clear and valuable information for anyone not yet great at TIG welding, and that definitely include me. 😟
Now, is there any way to ensure the tungsten electrode don't touch the weldpool, or the filler rod for that matter, apart from skillful control, or to some extend, by using a "walk the cup" method to basically wriggle the ceremic gas nozzle so it, "walk along" at an angle and pace to suit the job.? 🙄
☆ Niels.
Thanks so much.
One of the best welding video I've seen 👍😜
1 amp for every thousandths of inch of piece is a good rule of thumb to start
Goes out the window with stainless, but yeah that's pretty good for aluminum and steel, Ti to an extent
Normally way to hot for a tig 200 Lincoln
I will try this. My shop is letting me practice TIG when the flux core work is done. Nobody around to guide me so I am toying my way through learning. I practice filets on 1/4 carbon steel. I knew it was too low tonight at 120a. Will try 250a next time.
I was able to do a pretty nice lap joint on stainless (for the handle of my hanging Skyjack toolbox) with 110a. It was about 1/8” thick
@@1979Spica I'd be willing to bet 250 is too high at full pedal but as he said it's a good place to start and work from. Just remember welding is about balance, keeping travel speed, filler diameter, amperage, etc all in balance. Higher amps will often require higher travel speed, and at some point larger filler to match the puddle size created from all that amperage. Experience will help you refine the amp per thou guideline and you'll just memorize ranges per thickness after enough arc time
What about when you have two thicknesses?
Great video thanks! Can you do some intercooler piping video? that be awesome, having hard time sometimes.
Hello from Puerto Rico.
Thanks! I leave a msg right know. ✅️
This works best for me on a Miller Dynasty 200 for Aluminum
*TIG HF Impulse
*RMT STD
* AC
* Post Flow 3.4 or more
* balance 69
* AC Frequentcy 80
19200 Amps for 3/16 material (from the amperage chart at 1:38) is a bit much unless you are trying to vaporize it or travelling very very fast.
the chart doesn't mean anything. i could crank my Lincoln 450 to the max , my brain controlling everything. the foot pedal my travel speed is a skill. it depend on people.
@@bjireton Late to the party, but I think you missed the point in your rush to boast. No matter how good your foot pedal control is you're gonna struggle not to melt both you and the piece you're working at 19k amps. You'll need 43 of your Lincolns connected in parallel to reach that level.
I would also add another item for a source of contamination. This would be that all the components on the torch are properly tightened. I recently had a problem when welding aluminum where I could not get a decent bead. I check my torch and the collet and screen had become loose. I tightened them up and the problem was solved.
Nicely explained. Thanks for the refresher.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching!
can you weld 6061 aluminum with different type of filler rod?
80/20 is a bit extreme. Is that that you normally use? General recommendation is 70/30. I usually use that. Sometimes 75/25, but that’s rare unless I’m using a lot of current on thick aluminum where a smaller amount of cleaning is still a lot of power. I’ve done 60/40 for thinner material with low current.
Why does my tungsten ball always get bad spots on it. I can ball it and it want be a min and it starts to have particles on tip . Thanks and enjoy your videos.
great vid. i have a esab 220ic. it definitely has advanced setup. welds beutiful. definitely great tutorial
Excellent advice as always.
Im really loving your channel
Do you ALWAYS clean your aluminum with inox brush ? I dont see any stain of brush on your aluminum, do I miss something ?
Dusty, Can I make suggestion for us that are learning and in the vids we sometimes can't see what material you are welding for any certain tip you are talking about? I know that sounds confusing but there are so many variables in welding each materials (I know some ate constant) but some of us get confused with the variables on each material. Hope you understand this request?
I am looking at getting the Lincoln Tig 200 can you please advise on pros and cons? Thanks, Tommy
That's all nice, but' I use a Lincoln aspect 375. And' since I'm used to a Miller, it's hard to find the right settings. I tog weld Aluminum every day
Can you tell me what kind of welding rod I should use for light Tig welding.
Hello if the aluminium part is not prep good an it has contamination. Can this contamination make the arc unstable ?
How do you control this on older units that don't have adjustable post flow? I have a Lincoln 175 square wave
It’s really difficult to explain and share but I can totally give it to you in my online class. 😂
Excellent video. Thanks 😎
I would like to find a quick reference chart for different metals exc. Where can I find?
Great info ,thanks!
Im not welder , don't have license just hobby and I got my first machine for Christmas. I'm good in electronics and programing,so I'm curious if I make a wire feeder with arduino and stepper motor ,just like 3d printer,then is will work? I mean if you can feed the wire by hand then with stepper motor should work also isn't?
also if you dont have post flow on aluminum , your tungsten will oxide right?
Great lesson 👍✨
I wish I could afford your courses, I appreciate the free videos though
The use of helium mixed in with argon helps on thicker parts.
can the online course be done in uk ?
Thanks for the video. Why are the tungstens in this video all rounded? Shouldn’t they maintain sharpness at all times?
I was wondering this too! I was told to always keep them sharp
So good 👍
Just a question, when welding aluminium I thought you were meant to us AC? You mentioned DC during the sine form explanation. Other than that a great video as per normal Dusty. Thank you. 😀
It's just a way to explain it. You could say that if you pass the AC current through a diode to cut off the bottom part of the sine wave then you're left with a DC + voltage even though it's a sine. It's just semantics.
Read about alternating and direct current, since you seem to lack basic understanding of electrical theory
We use AC for welding as a polarity, you are correct about that:) When using AC, this will cycle between the two polarities of DC+ and DC-. It took me a bit to get this one when I was going to school, but happy to share it here🤙 Thanks for watching🔥
AC is alternating direction of current flow. From the outlet that's 50% positive, 50% negative 60 times per second (or only 50 in europe). An invertor welder converts that to DC in the direction of your choice, making your electrode either the positive or negative side of the circuit. It can invert the direction of current flow anytime you want. If you chose to alternate that direction frequently we simply refer to that as alternating current again. Some prefer to think of it as AC, some as switched direction DC. Referring to it as DC+ for 20% of the cycle seems simpler than throwing in another new term like "duty cycle" which is probably a good thing for quick videos. On the other hand, some people tend to think of AC as being a sinusoidal waveform, but most welders would be a square wave. It's just a semantic battle.
@@twinchargedmr2 Not sure what’s going on in your life to be so negative. I’m an electrician by trade so know quite a lot about it’s uses. TIG welding; however, I am new to and am learning. But thanks for your input all the same.
Good job
I rtry to go by the gauges but I still go by how it performs , I turn up if the welder is crackling too much and turn down if it gets to much a hum and that black on edges , some welders just weld hot and some weld cold , could be dirty or just cheap
An excellent video. Thank you.
now i just need to get a tig welder.
im still mucking about with a flux core Mig welder
I just got a inverter Tig welder and while practicing the torch arc will sometimes strobe (turns off and on rapidly) other times it give a continuous arc from the torch. Can you tell me what is causing the strobing of the arc and how to eliminate it.
You've pulse turned on .
I want more tig welding methods
Thank you Dusty great video
I had a question about the miller welding helmet digital elite 2.0 if u could help me out that would be great
great info on postflow
Excellent explanation!
Miller econo tig has no ac balance adjustment, how necessary can it be? What's do machines like this have it set at?
jody at welding tips and tricks done a video on a machine that didn't have ac balance but i forget which machine and he said it had a little to much cleaning for new clean material and it left a large area of cleaning around the weld.. personally I wouldn't touch a machine that didn't have an adjustable ac balance because it has to much cleaning for new clean material and probably not enough cleaning for the old crap i normally weld and it'd be near completely useless for welding cast, plus if you had something that was really pushing the limits in thickness you wouldn't be able to clean the hell out of it and set more ac negative to get the most heat possible.. having no ac balance adjustment is really limiting what you can do
Good tips,thanks for the video🤗😎🤗😎
I have lotos tig unit and the balance shows numbers + and - . The center is 0 . First - 1 is this 10% neg ?
Could you guys please do a real world video of how to fix alluminum tig welding where everything clumps up and does not penetrate and blows hole into the base material? You keep showing perfect situations where we are not achieving or even getting close to. All youtubers that I have watched does the same perfect weld that i barely achieve one second then lose.
Very very good job bro
awsome video, what are your thoughts on frequency settings?
ive found that i just set my amps a bit higher than i think and then i just use the pedal to keep the puddle looking right
The most important thing is to be able to see the weld properly, what I mean by that is, the right brightness in the helmet, extra glass with if it doesn't help with glasses. Then it is important to always keep the same width of the weld, look at the melt, keep the same width and drip in filler wire at an even speed, eg 1 2 3, 1 2 3, 1 2 3, etc..
I'm an old skool welder. Not a lot of tig welding. More mig and cracker box welding. Working in a big shop with lots of guys. All the settings are changed on the welders all the time. Mostly by guys who have no idea what they are doing in the 1st place. They can't weld to begin with. So they twist on every knob hoping to make magic happen. So I never change the settings unless I just absolutely have to. I've learned to adapt to how it's set and move on. So settings is not something I'm good at. That's why I might ask what settings you use. Regardless of the machine. It would give me a starting point. This might give you the idea I'm not a very good welder. But, I can weld a bulls ass if you can hold him still. LOL
Good advice as usual 🪙
Appreciate it! Thanks for checking it out!
With my 185 tig I just leave that machine cranked all the way up but my 355 machine i need to have my settings close
Debating on fronius 230i magicwave vs everlast 325ext ... wondering if it's insanely diff . For my first AC machine woo
*CHALLENGE* CAN YOU purchase a TOOLIOM Multi welder, that's got scratch start tig, and demonstrate on there?
My machine does not have hertz control, only balance. How important is this?
Post flow should not be to protect the tungsten which is a consumable, but to protect the stop start from oxidisation on a joint which is subject to radiographic test. Eg: wormhole.
Unless you're grinding your tip before every weld any contamination on it will go straight into your weld pool. So sure the tip is consumable but having a few seconds post flow even when welding aluminium is good advice.
@rexp5350 If your tungsten touches the weld, no post flow will eliminate tungsten inclusion. And aluminium requires a rounded off tungsten. Sharpen it after every start if you want.
@@scoobeydoooo You're right about the tip shape, but then I didn't say sharpen. Obviously the post flow won't help if you've dipped but it does prevent oxidation, which is probably the word I should've used to prevent confusion.
You don't have to take my word for it, here's what my Miller manual says "Postflow is required to cool tungsten and weld, and to prevent contamination of tungsten and weld. Increase postflow time if tungsten or
weld are dark in appearance."
Also a great idea to wipe off the tig rods. You'd be surprised on how dirty they really are.