Hi Jason. Very good points! Besisides my photography I am an electronic engineer and have worked as such for more than 40 years, and I agree with you, that often People - technical or not - seem to know what different sides of the technology that will give precisely what we are looking for instead of focusing on what photographical specs, that are wanted. But OK, we all do this from time to time, and it might just be interesting... Nerding interesting. I am looking forward to watch your videos! Jan, DK
Thanks for the video - I love how your videos take a topic and break it down so the viewers can get a general grasp of the workings involved. A R5-II topic I'd like to see when you get back to it is a dive into the auto focus functions that can be customized to buttons - depending on how you count them there are easily more than 20 that can be assigned to the various buttons, and their individual differences aren't always explained well in the manual. Some are fairly obvious but I'm sure there are some useful roles for some that I'm just not cluing in on. (Specifically I'm trying to figure how I can integrate eye-control auto focus with some back button auto focus setups I've seen out there.)
I'd like to see an R5C vs R5II 8kRaw comparison from FB groups they're saying the dynamic range difference with Clog2 is significant in 4k modes but the difference in 8kraw is negligible. As an R5C owner if this checks out i'll probably buy a 2nd one used for a b cam rather than the R5II
Good question, I don't know. I'll try to remember to check next time my batteries are low though. That said, in theory, once the camera is on PD, the battery isn't used anymore. So it shouldn't be limited. At least that's how the R5 and R5C work. However, there may be some edge cases that crop up.
I don’t know about everyone else but I’m a bit disappointed in the R5 ii. First of all in 75 degree weather after 1/2 hour of photos only…I DON’T do video, the camera started heating up to five bars and the heat from the camera started to get uncomfortable to hold. The autofocus is NOT groundbreaking at all…. I have lots of shots that are blurred that the autofocus point was right on yet not on the final product. I am an experienced wildlife photographer so I am hoping that there will be a firmware update or I need to work on my settings because something is not right.
That's disconcerting to hear. Couple of questions: What frame rate are you shooting at? Are you using the electronic shutter or mech? Also do you have the EVF set to high FPS or standard? RAW or CRAW? Also are you in the sun or the shade? Edit: Also what brand cards are you using?
@@PointsInFocus I am shooting at continuous high electronic shutter, I have the EVF set to high FPS smooth. I only shoot craw, I was in the shade under a tree and I am using a brand new ProGrade 512 gb CF express only.
Okay thanks... In the mean time I took my camera outside for maybe 5 minutes (it's 95°F out right now, hotter in the sun, and there's a thunderstorm coming [I know excuses, excuses]) and shot continuously for most of that time at 30 FPS (which even though I'm shooting stills, at that frame rate it's effectively shooting video). I didn't notice a temperature change, but I also don't think I was shooting long enough either. That said, having the VF set to smooth will increase the sensor read to 120 FPS and that does up the heat things up (as well as run the battery down). Craw is also more computationally complex than raw, and I don't think that the smaller files will offset that appreciably in terms of less card activity. I asked about the card, as I have some brands that get hotter than others. For example, my 256GB ProGrade Gold tends to stay cooler than my 1TB AngelBird. I also didn't see any focus errors in the images I looked at, though I didn't go though ever one of the ~500 frames I shot either. That said, I'll keep an eye out as I do more with the camera.
@@PointsInFocus I appreciate that, I think I am going to reset the camera to default and do my own settings and take your advice of course! I’ll report back
@@PointsInFocus I just wanted to thank you, I reset the camera and took your advice with settings and now the camera is working fine, no temp bar and it didn’t get warm to the touch! Thanks again!
In reality the critical aspect of photo quality in today technology should not go backwards but rather a fraction better. The truth is the R5 is coming up 5years old and was technologically ahead of it time and in fact it's still relevant today. So what fundamentally was added is a bit of speed.Much like camera phones they have peaked .
Hi Jason.
Very good points! Besisides my photography I am an electronic engineer and have worked as such for more than 40 years, and I agree with you, that often People - technical or not - seem to know what different sides of the technology that will give precisely what we are looking for instead of focusing on what photographical specs, that are wanted.
But OK, we all do this from time to time, and it might just be interesting... Nerding interesting.
I am looking forward to watch your videos!
Jan, DK
Thanks for making this video, Jason!
Thanks for the video - I love how your videos take a topic and break it down so the viewers can get a general grasp of the workings involved. A R5-II topic I'd like to see when you get back to it is a dive into the auto focus functions that can be customized to buttons - depending on how you count them there are easily more than 20 that can be assigned to the various buttons, and their individual differences aren't always explained well in the manual. Some are fairly obvious but I'm sure there are some useful roles for some that I'm just not cluing in on. (Specifically I'm trying to figure how I can integrate eye-control auto focus with some back button auto focus setups I've seen out there.)
Digging into the customization and AF settings is one of the things on the top of my list.
I'd like to see an R5C vs R5II 8kRaw comparison from FB groups they're saying the dynamic range difference with Clog2 is significant in 4k modes but the difference in 8kraw is negligible. As an R5C owner if this checks out i'll probably buy a 2nd one used for a b cam rather than the R5II
I wish to confirm the
01) quality of the 4K oversampling vs r5c
02) And probably the battery life
03) auto focus for video
Video AF and quality are both on my list. AF is something I use all the time so it's kind of important for me so it's up towards the top.
Thank you for the reply,
I have to say that I can’t trust auto focus for the on the go shots from the r5c, while i love the video formats…
If the lpe6p battery is low and you connect PD, will all modes still be available?
Good question, I don't know. I'll try to remember to check next time my batteries are low though.
That said, in theory, once the camera is on PD, the battery isn't used anymore. So it shouldn't be limited. At least that's how the R5 and R5C work. However, there may be some edge cases that crop up.
I don’t know about everyone else but I’m a bit disappointed in the R5 ii. First of all in 75 degree weather after 1/2 hour of photos only…I DON’T do video, the camera started heating up to five bars and the heat from the camera started to get uncomfortable to hold. The autofocus is NOT groundbreaking at all…. I have lots of shots that are blurred that the autofocus point was right on yet not on the final product. I am an experienced wildlife photographer so I am hoping that there will be a firmware update or I need to work on my settings because something is not right.
That's disconcerting to hear.
Couple of questions: What frame rate are you shooting at? Are you using the electronic shutter or mech? Also do you have the EVF set to high FPS or standard? RAW or CRAW? Also are you in the sun or the shade?
Edit: Also what brand cards are you using?
@@PointsInFocus I am shooting at continuous high electronic shutter, I have the EVF set to high FPS smooth. I only shoot craw, I was in the shade under a tree and I am using a brand new ProGrade 512 gb CF express only.
Okay thanks...
In the mean time I took my camera outside for maybe 5 minutes (it's 95°F out right now, hotter in the sun, and there's a thunderstorm coming [I know excuses, excuses]) and shot continuously for most of that time at 30 FPS (which even though I'm shooting stills, at that frame rate it's effectively shooting video). I didn't notice a temperature change, but I also don't think I was shooting long enough either.
That said, having the VF set to smooth will increase the sensor read to 120 FPS and that does up the heat things up (as well as run the battery down). Craw is also more computationally complex than raw, and I don't think that the smaller files will offset that appreciably in terms of less card activity.
I asked about the card, as I have some brands that get hotter than others. For example, my 256GB ProGrade Gold tends to stay cooler than my 1TB AngelBird.
I also didn't see any focus errors in the images I looked at, though I didn't go though ever one of the ~500 frames I shot either.
That said, I'll keep an eye out as I do more with the camera.
@@PointsInFocus I appreciate that, I think I am going to reset the camera to default and do my own settings and take your advice of course! I’ll report back
@@PointsInFocus I just wanted to thank you, I reset the camera and took your advice with settings and now the camera is working fine, no temp bar and it didn’t get warm to the touch! Thanks again!
I know people who will not buy the C400 because it does not have DGO even though it has the same dynamic range as Canon cinema cameras that have DGO.
In reality the critical aspect of photo quality in today technology should not go backwards but rather a fraction better.
The truth is the R5 is coming up 5years old and was technologically ahead of it time and in fact it's still relevant today. So what fundamentally was added is a bit of speed.Much like camera phones they have peaked .