Mazda 6 Front Brake Pads Replacement
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- The front brakes are squealing on my wife's 2018 Mazda 6, time to replace 'em. The original front brake pads reached the end of their life just before 70,000 miles. Time to install new pads and clips. See the links below for the parts and tools I used:
Front Brake Pads:
amzn.to/427iz8W (affiliate*)
*Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!
Front Brake Pads:
amzn.to/427iz8W (affiliate*)
*Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!
Under 5 minutes and you covered everything. Excellent. Well, almost everything. There's the level of brake fluid in the reservoir to keep an eye on as you push that piston in.
Thanks! Yes, I did neglect to mention keeping an eye on the reservoir, but I've never had an issue with it overflowing when replacing brake pads. However, my experience is limited.
Nice informative video. With good elements of detail regarding the refitting of the pads and calliper. Thank you, it certainly provided some information that may not be obvious when you first come to refit the parts. Thank you for your time and effort.
Thank you for taking time to leave a comment, I appreciate the feedback! :)
Thank you, Mike! First video I've watched from you and it really helped! Doing my girlfriends brakes tomorrow!
Welcome to the channel, I'm glad the video was helpful!
Same I'm about to change all 4 pads on my Mazda 6 myself tomorrow for first time. Great video. My son will also help walk Mr thru it over video call if needed. It used to be his car but he's too far away to help. Wish me luck. Lol
@@shirleycummings9259 Thanks! I ordered pads for the front and rear too. However, I quickly realized the rear pads had a lot of life left in them, so I haven't changed those ones yet. Good luck, let me know how it goes!
I am going to replace all the pads on my Mazda 6 2019 and watched many videos. This one is best Mike, thank you so much for the clarity. Do the back break pads require something different?
Thanks, I really appreciate the feedback! It's good to know my videos are standing out from the pack a bit. :) I haven't done the back pads yet (soon though) but, besides the pad size, the procedure should be pretty much exactly the same.
Wrong wording on my part, criticism, wrong word, sorry. Keep up the good work😅👍
139.56 canadian on Amazon for the linked pads, thats never going to happen, robbery
Hmm, only $70.77 US. I think I paid under $120 for the front and rear pads (haven't installed the rear yet). The important part was the pad model number, obviously you can buy 'em anywhere you find the best price.
Good video. Remember to release hyd reservoir cap, when pushing back piston.
I did remove the master cylinder cap and kept an eye on the fluid level to be sure it didn't overflow while compressing the caliper pistons. I neglected to include that in the video, but I guess I should have.
Wasn't criticising, mate, best vid I've seen. I know you can't include everything. 👌👌👍
@@paultaylor3294 I didn't take it as a criticism, I really appreciate the feedback! :)
What does replacing front pads cost done by a commercial workshop in the US?
I'm not sure, I didn't even bother checking, probably around $300-$400.
Perfect video, thank you. Kept it short and sweet, just the facts👍
Thanks! :)
Great explanation. I am sure this has been said, always clean and grease the caliper slide pins while you are there. I reuse my old clips after cleaning everything out just knowing they already seated right and have a bucket full of spares. My tourer is brutal on pads (every 20k miles.)
Yeah, I only replaced the clips since they came with the new pads. New pads every 20k, you must drive like you just robbed a bank! ;) This was the first pad change at almost 70k.
@@Mikeattempts Close enough mate, the tourer carries an ass like a Kardashian and I have a camper with it so its a heavy stop but no complaints the car has 220,000 on the clock.
These brakes are almost identical to the ones i changed on a Toyota. Parts and technology sharing. You should have removed the cap from the brake master cylinder before forcing all that fluid back into the reservoir. But otherwise, nice and to the point.
I did remove the master cylinder cap and kept an eye on the fluid level to be sure it didn't overflow while compressing the caliper pistons. But, you're right, I neglected to include that in the video. Thanks for the feedback.
@@Mikeattempts Heres another one: After the job is complete, pump the brake pedal several times to push the caliper piston back up against the pads to ensure proper brake function. Of course its optional, if you want to see your wife or whoevers driving scream and freak out for a moment when the pedal hits the floor the first time they try to stop.
@@Mach141 I haven't done a ton of brake jobs in my life but I've yet to have that happen. :) I always personally test the vehicles myself first. If I made a mistake, I want to be the first to know.
@@Mikeattempts I'm surprised to hear this. Its very common. Likely because I compress the piston different. I push it all the way in. By using the brake pad your not getting it compressed fully, so you don't have the huge space to make up when 1st pushing the pedal.
@@Mach141 Yeah, that's gotta be it. I only compress 'em just enough to clear the rotor.
if you dontt have a c clamp like me you can undo the brake fluid bleeder on the caliper and push the piston with your hands. be sure to not let in air by pulling the piston. REFILL BRAKE FUILD to proper levels.
Yep, but then I'd feel the need to bleed the calipers too, at least a little, to be sure no air got in.
1:57 you show a side by side of the old and new pad. Looks like the old pad is a good inch longer
I see what you mean but I think that's just a bit of an optical illusion since the new pad is so much thicker. If the new pad was shorter, it wouldn't have fit properly.
And also lubricant the caliber pin with copper grease
Yep, good tip, thanks!
Hey Mike, I'm in to a problem where the caliper pin boots are the same size as the hole in the bracket and of course, will not fit. Any suggestion on how to make them fit when the hole is the same size?
I'm no pro but, if I understand correctly, the pin boots aren't supposed to go in the holes. They just sit between the caliper and the bracket to keep dust and debris off of the parts of the pins that slide in and out as you press and release the brakes.
@@Mikeattempts Thanks for your quick response there Mike. Turns out there was a lip that the seal needed to go past, and then there was a bit more room in the hole. I didnt notice that lip and of course that is what keeps the tight seal. Dust and debris would certainly get in if they just stayed flush. Happy car-ing!
@@Nathan_Breeze Cool, I'm glad you got it figured out! I've never replaced a caliper boot so that's good info for the future.
What tools do I need to replace the brake pads?
At minimum you'll need a jack, a tire iron, and a wrench.
What are those handy tools that you have?
@@ImNeverHavingKidsPodcast I used an air powered impact wrench to remove the wheel and an air ratchet to remove the caliper bolt. Both of mine require an air compressor but you can buy battery powered versions too.
@@ImNeverHavingKidsPodcastI wouldn’t mess with your car if you don’t even know what tools are
Is it the same for 2021 gtr
The brake pads are probably a different part number, but the procedure should be pretty much the same.
No torque specs?! Amateur. Thumbs down.
I am an amateur. My channel is called Mike Attempts, not Mike the Certified Mechanic. :) If anyone is concerned about the torque spec, they can easily look it up for their specific vehicle.
These dont need torqued, amateur...or is it douchebag? Its not a cylinder head.
Well said mike👍👍
. Good vid👍👍