Thanks for an excellent video. Great technical content, sensible approach to the problems found and a pleasure to see you care about the family who probably don’t even understand what was wrong! Top bloke - all the best… 🙏👍👏
if its easy fix i would fix it , i would always want to give landlord a pass on test day .thats why EICR should cost £300 on property that you have not worked on .if you did rewire it should cost £150 because you know everything been done right and won't get any surprise when testing ( might be few new lights you need checking )
2:18 apparently undergone a full rewire. Wonder if they still had some old red and black on their van then. Makes you wonder if they charged for all new cabling?
Rewired means put new sockets, new boxes but used the old cabling. Also apparently are also very colour blind, or just did the old touch no yelp test, and used the good old finger tight screwdriver test.
What about if you extend the old coloured wiring because they were too short, with the current setup, wire it all up correctly and your socket tester still shows a reverse polarity ?? What then ? What is the solution to this ?
I would test each socket on their own. Depending on their usage pulling out a plug vs leaving one in there for a while could affect the readings through the contacts, or am I just anal on this?🤔
Nice job. I think personally think it's better and quicker to make good as you go along. If you come across a problem as you can't leave it and hppe the client calls you back. To sort it?
If that property has had a full rewire then i’am a monkey’s uncle . Full rewire the conductors would be brown and blue with green/yellow sleeving on the earth
Could you show me in BS 7671 where it says that a back box should be fixed with a washer on the screw, or is this just something that you would do as it doesn't make a difference to the result of the EICR.
I am a bit confuse if this property was rewired so how you still got the red and black cable not running a Fly lead from the box is not a fail just good practice
I am curious what type of earthing arrangement you had for this property, and what was the value of Ze or Zs at DB. For a value of 0.27 for R1+R2 and 1.01 for Zs, using formula Zs=Ze+(R1+R2) means you had a value of 0.74 for Ze or Zs at DB, which is close to maximum Ze for a TN-S system. Now if we take in consideration that calculated Zs using formula is usually slightly higher than the measured Zs, and measured Zs is 1.01, resulting in Ze or Zs at DB for your installation around 0.80 or higher I assume. 0.27(R1+R2) + 0.80(Ze I assumed) = 1.07 Zs calculated, and 1.01 measured, like I said calculated is slightly higher than measured. So, was TT system? Thanks
No you can’t leave that fault. Well done hope you charged more but if not, you can sleep well knowing it’s now safe. Absolutely shocking tho, Full rewire but reusing the original cabling. 🤔
Washers on the fixing screws are not a requirement but a personal preference but the screws holding the box should not be a counter sunk type as these can cause damage to the cable the screw type should be a pan head type in my humble opinion.
That fact Matt said it’s had a full rewire but there’s no paperwork should have rang some alarm bells. But as usual Matt soon got it sorted and made safe 👍
It's had a rewire, with old colours? haha can clearly see his mate the kitchen fitter has hacked out the old single boxes and chopped in a double , explains why the cables are short.. brilliant video mate
A rewire with un harmonised cables no gromits & an earth wire in a connector block?? Dog rough that's some one with out any idea of what they're doing!!!
Fantastic job, it amazes me how many so called sparks can’t get the basics done properly line to neutral , i hate to think what the rest of the insulation is like, and then real sparks like you and me and Gaz Have to go in and put it right and make safe , as for using washer’s it’s not a requirement I don’t use them except for CUs and outside socket outlets. Job well done 👍 Fantastic video as always 👍👍👍👍❤️
Sean, I think the 'spark' has assumed the neutral goes on the left because they're always on the left on the front of the sockets. It just shows a lack of knowledge/experience and lack of even the most basic of testing. I agree no need for washers. It's overkill for back boxes. Mike.
I suspect that the electrical part of the so-called refurb was not done by a competent electrician, there are landlords out there who wouldn’t pay you for small repairs and demand “a pass”, these are the same people who only want to pay £60 for a full EICR
Your avving a laugh i really hope... Yes it doesnt really matter if your a chancer.... unless your a professional electrician doing an honest proper paid skilled job .... and then it DOES matter...ffs.🙄
It can be a huge issue. Sockets are single pole switches and are supposed to switch the line conductor. If they are reversed then they switch the neutral. This means that when an appliance is plugged in even with the switch off the line is still connected through the appliance and the circuit prevented from completion on its return to the socket via the neutral. Hence, I'd someone were to think the appliance were turned off an inadvertently make contact with a live part they could make a path to earth and get a nasty shock. Also as someone else has said, the fuse in the plug of an appliance would then be connected to the neutral meaning it would not be protecting the appliance from potential high current on the line conductor.
Yes, the fuse on the plug is on the live. If the device gets a ground fault the fuse will be completely bypassed. Now with the breaker and RCDs is is not so serious but it still is a clear error. Similarly if there is a short and the fuse blows it will leave voltage on the device.
When was this video made? Matt says that it was recently had a rewire. I dont tink so, looking at the cable colours it would seem to be earlier than 20006.
Sorry but there so many things wrong with this video.1 If it had a full rewire then this is clearly not the case as there are red black cables in the back box with dark green sleeving .Meaning that wiring is around 50 years old .Inspector should have known this.2.Outer grey cable sheathing is below the back box and should be brought into the back box.3 You earthed the cpcs of the ring to the back box then brought a flying lead to the socket .So now you have a 1.5 or even 1.0 single earth protecting a socket outlet connected to a 32 amp ring .If the rcd failed, you would not have sufficient earth protection to blow the mcb ,instead it could possibly blow the 1.0mm cable leaving the live fault on the earth.
Thanks for an excellent video.
Great technical content, sensible approach to the problems found and a pleasure to see you care about the family who probably don’t even understand what was wrong!
Top bloke - all the best…
🙏👍👏
bit of a fib to claim it's just been rewired if they are still using the old wiring surely?
or is that allowed?
thanks
A Colour-blind Sparks that did that first install , well done mate on correction ..
if its easy fix i would fix it , i would always want to give landlord a pass on test day .thats why EICR should cost £300 on property that you have not worked on .if you did rewire it should cost £150 because you know everything been done right and won't get any surprise when testing ( might be few new lights you need checking )
2:18 apparently undergone a full rewire. Wonder if they still had some old red and black on their van then. Makes you wonder if they charged for all new cabling?
Great point 🦾
@@GSHElectrical also just watched rest of video. @ 7:04 solid green earth (sorry cpc). By recently rewired they mean pre ‘77?
I'm not an electrician but I spotted the old colours🤦🏻♂️
Rewired means put new sockets, new boxes but used the old cabling. Also apparently are also very colour blind, or just did the old touch no yelp test, and used the good old finger tight screwdriver test.
Rewired my arse... just swopped out what you can see.... charged you for what you can't.... yehah ...
What about if you extend the old coloured wiring because they were too short, with the current setup, wire it all up correctly and your socket tester still shows a reverse polarity ?? What then ? What is the solution to this ?
Very useful video thanks. Just passed my 2391 and love these real life scenarios please do more 👍
The CPC should be wired directly to the socket and not to the back box unless it's continuous
How they re-wired the house using the old colour scheme cables? Not a re-wire...
Nice job. Loved the video.
Another great video
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😀
What reg number is it regarding washers on back boxes? 😂
I would test each socket on their own. Depending on their usage pulling out a plug vs leaving one in there for a while could affect the readings through the contacts, or am I just anal on this?🤔
The white plug top at 11:09 looked a bit discoloured
Nice job. I think personally think it's better and quicker to make good as you go along. If you come across a problem as you can't leave it and hppe the client calls you back. To sort it?
Hi mate, on the megger you have the max button when doing the earth loop reading. Keeps the highest reading
If that property has had a full rewire then i’am a monkey’s uncle . Full rewire the conductors would be brown and blue with green/yellow sleeving on the earth
Could you show me in BS 7671 where it says that a back box should be fixed with a washer
on the screw, or is this just something that you would do as it doesn't make a difference
to the result of the EICR.
This is Matts best practices 👍🏻
I am a bit confuse if this property was rewired so how you still got the red and black cable not running a Fly lead from the box is not a fail just good practice
I am curious what type of earthing arrangement you had for this property, and what was the value of Ze or Zs at DB. For a value of 0.27 for R1+R2 and 1.01 for Zs, using formula Zs=Ze+(R1+R2) means you had a value of 0.74 for Ze or Zs at DB, which is close to maximum Ze for a TN-S system. Now if we take in consideration that calculated Zs using formula is usually slightly higher than the measured Zs, and measured Zs is 1.01, resulting in Ze or Zs at DB for your installation around 0.80 or higher I assume.
0.27(R1+R2) + 0.80(Ze I assumed) = 1.07 Zs calculated, and 1.01 measured, like I said calculated is slightly higher than measured.
So, was TT system?
Thanks
No you can’t leave that fault. Well done hope you charged more but if not, you can sleep well knowing it’s now safe. Absolutely shocking tho, Full rewire but reusing the original cabling. 🤔
Washers on the fixing screws are not a requirement but a personal preference but the screws holding the box should not be a counter sunk type as these can cause damage to the cable the screw type should be a pan head type in my humble opinion.
I also love a pan head screw for this type of fixing 👍🏻
Keep it up bro..
Don't understand why you need to put washers on a back box with the screws. If the screws hold it solid what is the reason.
Just makes a more secure fix,
How much could you charge a customer for such a job Im new to all this but qualified and waiting to do my inspection and testing
Hi mate
Seems u hv forgotten to sleeve brown and blue the old colors red and black in the video
That fact Matt said it’s had a full rewire but there’s no paperwork should have rang some alarm bells. But as usual Matt soon got it sorted and made safe 👍
It's had a rewire, with old colours? haha can clearly see his mate the kitchen fitter has hacked out the old single boxes and chopped in a double , explains why the cables are short.. brilliant video mate
Thanks ☺️👍🏻
A rewire with un harmonised cables no gromits & an earth wire in a connector block?? Dog rough that's some one with out any idea of what they're doing!!!
Fantastic job, it amazes me how many so called sparks can’t get the basics done properly line to neutral , i hate to think what the rest of the insulation is like, and then real sparks like you and me and Gaz
Have to go in and put it right and make safe , as for using washer’s it’s not a requirement
I don’t use them except for CUs and outside socket outlets.
Job well done 👍
Fantastic video as always 👍👍👍👍❤️
Sean, I think the 'spark' has assumed the neutral goes on the left because they're always on the left on the front of the sockets. It just shows a lack of knowledge/experience and lack of even the most basic of testing. I agree no need for washers. It's overkill for back boxes. Mike.
@@KendalMike I agree a bit but we should always look at the markings next to each terminal ie L- E - N , not always in that order .
This is the typical diy dave on facebook saying he can sort stuff out for 50 or 100 quid cash in hand pleased it got sorted
A full rewire with old colour wires? I don't think so...
I suspect that the electrical part of the so-called refurb was not done by a competent electrician, there are landlords out there who wouldn’t pay you for small repairs and demand “a pass”, these are the same people who only want to pay £60 for a full EICR
Does it really matter if phase and Neutral are reversed in AC voltage?
Its only important not to reverse with DC voltage, as far as I know.
Your avving a laugh i really hope...
Yes it doesnt really matter if your a chancer.... unless your a professional electrician doing an honest proper paid skilled job .... and then it DOES matter...ffs.🙄
FfT = Fast Fourier Transform?
It can be a huge issue. Sockets are single pole switches and are supposed to switch the line conductor. If they are reversed then they switch the neutral. This means that when an appliance is plugged in even with the switch off the line is still connected through the appliance and the circuit prevented from completion on its return to the socket via the neutral. Hence, I'd someone were to think the appliance were turned off an inadvertently make contact with a live part they could make a path to earth and get a nasty shock.
Also as someone else has said, the fuse in the plug of an appliance would then be connected to the neutral meaning it would not be protecting the appliance from potential high current on the line conductor.
Depends if you want your plugtop fuse to be in the neutral mate and all your equipment connected up wrong. Can you think of any issues with that... 🤣
Yes, the fuse on the plug is on the live. If the device gets a ground fault the fuse will be completely bypassed. Now with the breaker and RCDs is is not so serious but it still is a clear error. Similarly if there is a short and the fuse blows it will leave voltage on the device.
Shouldn't twist conductors together either
When was this video made? Matt says that it was recently had a rewire. I dont tink so, looking at the cable colours
it would seem to be earlier than 20006.
Sorry but there so many things wrong with this video.1 If it had a full rewire then this is clearly not the case as there are red black cables in the back box with dark green sleeving .Meaning that wiring is around 50 years old .Inspector should have known this.2.Outer grey cable sheathing is below the back box and should be brought into the back box.3 You earthed the cpcs of the ring to the back box then brought a flying lead to the socket .So now you have a 1.5 or even 1.0 single earth protecting a socket outlet connected to a 32 amp ring .If the rcd failed, you would not have sufficient earth protection to blow the mcb ,instead it could possibly blow the 1.0mm cable leaving the live fault on the earth.
The 🤠🤠🤠🤠 boyz are in town 😂😂😂😂 said in Marshall 'matt to 🔫🔫🔫 sling them outta town YEEEEHHAA
Looks like Stevie wonder’s been freelancing as an electrician!
Criminal way to be left 😐