thanks again- very useful vid to watch- just fixing a slight weep from the domed nut and washer that hold the cam blade tensioner so thought whilst i was getting down and dirty i'd check the valves- first time- thankfully all in tolerance. still going to watch shims vid for when it's not so good!!!!
I agree with your question 100% and I will "loosen" up I1 when I replace the shims. I feel it can be much more damaging if your valves are tightening up on the clearances because the rim of the valve is actually grooving into the head of the motor hence the saying 'it is better to hear valves versus smelling your valves.' Another good trick to try is if I2 measures out at being too large, then take that shim on I2 and placing it on I1 to loosen up the measurement.
Thanks for the reply. Will be interesting to compare the ones that were still in tolerance with the shims you replaced that placed them mid range. At least you're being thorough in the face of austere conditions. Good work.
Thank you for the comment and I am glad you are able to get use out of it. I will be doing second part of the shim replacement video this weekend if we don't get hit with the tropical storm heading our way right now.
Yes I am. I recently put the Dynojet 5121 needles and that made the bike run rich. Keep watching as I am making a video on how to re-jet and I will show the comparison between stock springs & needles to the Dynojet ones. After that I will need to synchronize the carbs after doing all this so keep watching!
FYI... a TORX bit (T15 or T20) was perfect for locking the backlash gear in the cam. Did need to grind the hex sided down to fit. Put the bit 1/2 way into a cordless screwdriver in lieu of a bench grinder.
it took a while to source the weep- after checking the usual suspects- valve head, oil lines, oil pressure switch....it's actually not the tensioner itself but the smaller nut and copper washer further up that just hold the blade. in fact i didn't even know it was there until i got in with the mini mag lite and inspection mirror!!!!
Nice vid, much appreciated. Would you ever consider going up to 'center' of spec, ie. 2mm thinner shims on I1 to get you to like .17mm? The theory being that if you re-center all then it'll take longer for them to fall out of spec (individually), hopefully reducing wear.
I haven't done this yet on my 07 Bonneville. I don't quite understand the position of the lobes. Theyre not straight up at 12 o'clock...one is at one o'clock and the other at eleven. Or so it appears on the video. Is that correct?
That is part 2 of the shims video. Everything is ready to go & I have replacement shims. As soon as the monsoon season is done here in Japan, I will get the video made. One of the downfalls of not having a garage and having to do this work outside :(
Were you able to source the weep? I know that nut on that puts tension on the cam chain has a gasket for it or at least is should have one. Was that the source of your problem? Sometimes a slight rip in a gasket is enough to stop making something oil tight...someone having a bad day....not paying attention...hope you source the problem
I enjoyed your video but can I ask why you've chosen minimum clearances when as far as I've always been taught, valves recess into heads so gaps close leading to burnt valves, poor performance and cutting out.
+HORNET6 I went with minimums that were still in the tolerance range as prescribed by the manual. I have been told that these motors loosen up after the 12,000 mark going to the 24,000 servicing. I would like to point out though that even if they were set at minimums, they were still within the tolerance ranges.
You said to put the cam lobe straight up to take the measurement but when you actually did it you had the lobe at about 45 degrees from the vertical. Why did you do that? Were you matching some mark down below?
I will play with it to see if I get any differences on readings. You have the tear shape on the one side of the lobe while the other side is rounded. I just experiment to see if I get any variances on the readings which I didn't.
If you use the 5th gear / back wheel method to adjust the lobes to the correct position , and don't take off the alternator cover , do you have to drain the engine oil ?
do you know anything about a carb cleaning, or at lease I think its the carb. It has been unbelive cold here in texas I mean 20's 30's and I let the bike sit ofr a week on one of the days It was nice 60's the bike just gave me a click while I push the ignition button real slow click about .5 sec so I took the battery out recharged it and still nothing, I also did an oil change since it was about that time but i'm not sure what to do now.
I will be doing a carb cleaning video soon as soon as my screw kit arrives that I ordered. What year is this bike? There is a very good possibility you need to perform a cleaning. Best thing to do is take the bowls off and have a good look at them. The bottoms of them will give you a very good indication if you stuff is gummed up. Also, when was the last time you changed your spark plugs?
Christopher Segura If it is a 2012, then the bike is EFI and not carb'd. You should be able to just get some injector cleaner fluid and run that. I wouldn't imagine that the injectors on a '12 would be that bad off
I didn't have any choice unless I wanted to wait two years to do it. Sometimes you have to make do with what you have and you don't always get to work in the conditions you want.
Thank you for the comment and I am glad you are able to get use out of it. I will be doing second part of the shim replacement video this weekend if we don't get hit with the tropical storm heading our way right now.
Excellent video! My Bonnie is at 12,080 miles so I need to get in and check those valves, this video is a big help! Cheers for uploading it.
thanks again- very useful vid to watch- just fixing a slight weep from the domed nut and washer that hold the cam blade tensioner so thought whilst i was getting down and dirty i'd check the valves- first time- thankfully all in tolerance. still going to watch shims vid for when it's not so good!!!!
You are welcome. I am glad you are able to get something from it!
I agree with your question 100% and I will "loosen" up I1 when I replace the shims. I feel it can be much more damaging if your valves are tightening up on the clearances because the rim of the valve is actually grooving into the head of the motor hence the saying 'it is better to hear valves versus smelling your valves.' Another good trick to try is if I2 measures out at being too large, then take that shim on I2 and placing it on I1 to loosen up the measurement.
Thanks for the reply. Will be interesting to compare the ones that were still in tolerance with the shims you replaced that placed them mid range. At least you're being thorough in the face of austere conditions. Good work.
Excellent video.
Very well done video!
Thank you for the comment and I am glad you are able to get use out of it. I will be doing second part of the shim replacement video this weekend if we don't get hit with the tropical storm heading our way right now.
Thanks a million man.
Yes I am. I recently put the Dynojet 5121 needles and that made the bike run rich. Keep watching as I am making a video on how to re-jet and I will show the comparison between stock springs & needles to the Dynojet ones. After that I will need to synchronize the carbs after doing all this so keep watching!
thanks. I would not open the engine head outdoor though.....
FYI... a TORX bit (T15 or T20) was perfect for locking the backlash gear in the cam. Did need to grind the hex sided down to fit. Put the bit 1/2 way into a cordless screwdriver in lieu of a bench grinder.
it took a while to source the weep- after checking the usual suspects- valve head, oil lines, oil pressure switch....it's actually not the tensioner itself but the smaller nut and copper washer further up that just hold the blade. in fact i didn't even know it was there until i got in with the mini mag lite and inspection mirror!!!!
Ah, yeah, that's a good point. Yeah, I've heard that it's always better to keep them on the loose side. Didn't think of swapping the shims, though!
Nice vid, much appreciated.
Would you ever consider going up to 'center' of spec, ie. 2mm thinner shims on I1 to get you to like .17mm? The theory being that if you re-center all then it'll take longer for them to fall out of spec (individually), hopefully reducing wear.
I haven't done this yet on my 07 Bonneville. I don't quite understand the position of the lobes. Theyre not straight up at 12 o'clock...one is at one o'clock and the other at eleven. Or so it appears on the video. Is that correct?
That is part 2 of the shims video. Everything is ready to go & I have replacement shims. As soon as the monsoon season is done here in Japan, I will get the video made. One of the downfalls of not having a garage and having to do this work outside :(
Were you able to source the weep? I know that nut on that puts tension on the cam chain has a gasket for it or at least is should have one. Was that the source of your problem? Sometimes a slight rip in a gasket is enough to stop making something oil tight...someone having a bad day....not paying attention...hope you source the problem
I enjoyed your video but can I ask why you've chosen minimum clearances when as far as I've always been taught, valves recess into heads so gaps close leading to burnt valves, poor performance and cutting out.
+HORNET6 I went with minimums that were still in the tolerance range as prescribed by the manual. I have been told that these motors loosen up after the 12,000 mark going to the 24,000 servicing. I would like to point out though that even if they were set at minimums, they were still within the tolerance ranges.
"Shims" at 16.00 are what I have been calling 'feeler gauges" for the last 60 years.
Yeah I thought the same thing... He obviously got that bit wrong
Hell no! That is a perfect way to damage the casing that your cover mates up to. Rubber mallet and patience and the vaccuum will break!
You said to put the cam lobe straight up to take the measurement but when you actually did it you had the lobe at about 45 degrees from the vertical. Why did you do that? Were you matching some mark down below?
I will play with it to see if I get any differences on readings. You have the tear shape on the one side of the lobe while the other side is rounded. I just experiment to see if I get any variances on the readings which I didn't.
If you use the 5th gear / back wheel method to adjust the lobes to the correct position , and don't take off the alternator cover , do you have to drain the engine oil ?
No, you would not have to drain the oil in that scenario.
+B06Tang Thanks for getting back to me , that was quick .
Convention is cylinder 1 is on the the left as you sit on the bike. Might be confusing if someone uses this video and a manual.
do you know anything about a carb cleaning, or at lease I think its the carb. It has been unbelive cold here in texas I mean 20's 30's and I let the bike sit ofr a week on one of the days It was nice 60's the bike just gave me a click while I push the ignition button real slow click about .5 sec so I took the battery out recharged it and still nothing, I also did an oil change since it was about that time but i'm not sure what to do now.
I will be doing a carb cleaning video soon as soon as my screw kit arrives that I ordered. What year is this bike? There is a very good possibility you need to perform a cleaning. Best thing to do is take the bowls off and have a good look at them. The bottoms of them will give you a very good indication if you stuff is gummed up. Also, when was the last time you changed your spark plugs?
it's a 2012 still new changed the rear breaks and done the oil changes i havent messed with the other stuff till it has an other year
Christopher Segura If it is a 2012, then the bike is EFI and not carb'd. You should be able to just get some injector cleaner fluid and run that. I wouldn't imagine that the injectors on a '12 would be that bad off
roger that will do
Bonnie ville ok so I did the injector cleaner and I even tried to bump start it totally failed
At 7:00 you used the screwdriver didn't you? Come on now, we won't tell !
You opened up your engine on a windy day in a park??? Dude...that is not cool!
I didn't have any choice unless I wanted to wait two years to do it. Sometimes you have to make do with what you have and you don't always get to work in the conditions you want.
Thank you for the comment and I am glad you are able to get use out of it. I will be doing second part of the shim replacement video this weekend if we don't get hit with the tropical storm heading our way right now.