Chevrolet S10 Vacuum Leak Repair
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- For quite some time, my truckling has been suffering from a vacuum leak that would sometimes make the climate controls not work (especially under hard acceleration--needed to keep after the Keykeeper's supercharged Pontiac!). Also, when the engine was off, airflow would revert to the dash vents due to vacuum loss. (GM vehicles have a failsafe position that is a mix between the heater outlet and defroster vent. Why mine went to the dash vents I don't know.)
If you are not able to switch between HOT and COLD airflow, your blend door actuator has probably failed. On a 2003 truck and probably anything 98-up, the blend door is operated by an electric motor. Failures are usually due to one of the gears stripping out or cracking. If you're faced with this repair, you may find this video from UA-camr Steve Crosier worthwhile: • Blazer Jimmy Blend doo...
A number of people have indicated that the vacuum line going down into the fender well area connects to a vacuum reservoir. I never had to troubleshoot that and can't speak to where it goes.
As of April 2013, I don't own this truck any longer. Anyone seeking detailed service advice about this or any other repair should get the GENUINE GM FACTORY service manual. Do NOT waste your time or money on the Haynes or Chilton's manuals -- they are just about worthless.
Thank you for the tutorial, it really saved the day. This saved hours of aggravation. I googled the symptoms and your video came up. I watched it and didn't bother looking at any other information went to the truck and touched the line only to have it disintegrate. Went to my parts store and asked for a couple inches of vacuum line and picked up a couple other things and got the line free. Put the new line on and mama (and state inspector) will be happy. A quarter million views! You can figure that's the amount of hours you saved with this video.
Again Thank You!
Hey, thanks for the video. I had no idea what was causing my weak airflow out of the vents. I stumbled across this video searching for advice on freon psi. After watching I replaced both the long piece (7/32 width hose) and the short piece (5/32 width hose). Then added about 1/3rd of a can of freon. For about $25 total - with a lot of leftover hose - my AC is stronger and colder than ever. 2002 2.2l 4cyl. Chevy S10 Pickup. 145k miles. I really appreciate it.
Yep, exact same problem & hose here. For those questioning where the 3rd (5/32") line goes, there is barb fixed in the inner fender well. It's tucked up under the wiring harness that runs through there. You can see it with a mirror and can get it reconnected with a little patience. Thanks for the video! It was a huge help.
Thank you so much. You gentlemen saved me a bunch of money. My problem was exactly the same as yours. Thanks to you, I was able to fix it myself. Keep up the good work.All of us non mechanic guys need guys like you.
Thanks for the video! I found the broken vacuum line a couple weeks ago, but didn't realize what its purpose was. I also was trying to figure out why my selector was not working, but this video saved the day. Thank you!
I've owned a 1995 GMC Sonoma and now a 1999 S10 and I always thought it was peculiar that the little 4 bangers had the same response to climbing a steep hill with the gas to the floor. The air flow would always switch from defrost to dash heat. Recently the defrost stopped working altogether. I saw your video and checked the tubing you demonstrated and sure enough it was rotten with a hole in it. Has to be the easiest you tube fix I have ever had. Never dawned on me that vacuum was even used anymore. Thanks for posting.
Thank you for this video! I just bought a 2003 s10 yesterday, and on the ride home from the dealership I noticed that no matter where I set the vents to blow, they'd always continue to blow out of the dash panel. I did some research online and found out that it may be due to a vacuum leak, and then I found your video that shows the exact same problem! I'm going to go take a look at it right now and see if the hose is torn. Thanks again! +1!
I know that this is old, but still very good information. I just walked out to my son's Chevy S-10 and the vacuum hose was in the same condition as yours! The A/C now switches the hose was long enough to cut off the bad and reconnect. It looked as though mine had too much slack and caused the hose to have a force bend in it. Thank you ever so much!!!!
This video was a life saver for me. I thought that the guys at Best Buy knocked my lines off when they put my new radio in during the summer. Before I went there to complain, I looked under the hood, and just like in this video, that hose was rotted. I replaced it and the other short one. The long one will have to wait, but my controls are working again. Great video guys. Thanks.
Didn't even know I had this problem on 2003 Sonoma until I saw this video. Sure enough I checked the hose and it was dust! Defrost burns me out now. Thank you.
I just replaced all three hoses leading into the tee on my Chevy S10. All three were rotten and the climate control wasn't working at all. Thanks for posting this video.
I ordered a flap door actuator for $40. Then I found your video. I pinched off the hose and reconnected and the vents worked better. I have a 94 Sonoma and I see a lot of vac lines dry rotted. Now I am on a mission to change all the lines.
What a lifesaver - new vacuum hoses fixed this for me. All 4 actuators working great now and it didn't take nearly as long to put the dash back together as it did to take it apart (and it would have gone back in a lot faster if I hadn't been so busy cussing myself for not finding this video until I had already pulled most of the dash out looking for a broken actuator or blend door). Thank you very much for posting this video!!!
Last week I noticed that I had no air out of the defroster or floor. I originally thought it was something mechanical. Thanks to your video I discovered the hose from the right side all the way to the middle of the engine was dryrotted. Got a new hose in, but busted that tiny hose you commented on. Thanks to duct tape and that valve piece, I have full air in all positions again. If you are ever in Oklahoma I'd like to shake your hand and buy you a beer!
Thanks a million. Same exact problem that you had. I was giving serious thought to selling my S-10 truck (13 years old), versus paying a garage or trying to tear apart dash and fix myself. I actually replaced all vacuum hoses going to the T-fitting and HVAC works like a champ. Cost me under $10. Thanks again for posting the video.
Thank you for this video, saved me hours of troubleshooting. Popped the hood went to the vacuum line and found it had disconnected from the vacuum reservoir, problem solved, thanks again!
So on the way to work this morning I had no controls work other than max a/c. We had a long rain overnight and windshield needed defrost. I had nothing. Was pondering all day at work about it and I knew that I was going to end up taking the dash out. BOOOO on that! Just wanted to tell you thanks for the video. The vacuum line was dry and rotten all the way through. My AC is blowing like a champ( force wise) and every other control is working too. All for about three bucks!! You DA MAN! Thanks again.
I have one of these trucks like yours. I cannot express how much I would like to see the engineers did designed some of this stuff talk to each other and figure out where repair problems might be as considerable issue smiles everyone.
Thanks for this video. I had exactly the same problem, ordered my actuator, was taking all the under dash parts apart prepping for when the part come in. I got aggravated as the area is to darn small for me. So I come in and was going to try youtube one more time for maybe another fix and I found this. Watched it, went back out, had the same rotten vacuum line that you showed. Went to Advanced Auto, got me a 2" piece for like .60 cents, put it on and it did fix my problem, so got my money back on the actuator, not to mention, they ordered the wrong one anyway.
Thanks for the heads up. This video helped solve the same problem on my s10. Seems the hose just mutates into a black mush. Removed and replaced the 2" hose and that did the trick!
Man! Your video just saved me TONS of money and troubles! God Bless You!! It was the same problem, Same location! Many Thanks!
You're very welcome. Thank you for watching (and yes, I really do mean that)!
Thank you for posting this video. It has been hard driving to work in my S10 without the defrost function. (dangerous) Watched your video, found the cracked hose. I wend down to auto store and paid 5 dollars for new hose. Works like new. Thanks.
I have this problem too...looks like someone took the vacuum hoses out...I have no defrost either. Do you know where I can get a vacuum diagram for my 96 S10? Haynes sux
You guys nailed it! I had the same problem. I was fortunate enough to watch your video after the one where you tear out the truck interior to get to the actuators. My lines were rotten and I still havent found the other line that six inch line goes to off one of the tees! previous comment said its in the fender weld somewhere so I'll check that but thanks again
hey ya wanna know a REALLY fun repair job? the heater core went out on my dad's 2001 chevy s10 last christmas and me and him had to strip the WHOLE ENTIRE dash outta there just to get to that stupid heater core, that was the most fun we evar had workin on a vehicle
This video saved me from tearing my dash apart.
Thanks for the video. Headed to the parts store in a minute to see if new hoses will cure me -- mine were shot. The mystery hose that many keep mentioning goes to a charcoal canister as sk8r365 said -- the nipple for the air hose on my 2001 S10 is completely hidden beneath the flat bracket that holds the ABS module to the drivers side body / fender -- I found it with my finger and confirmed with a mirror.Absolutely devilish place to hide something that apparently comes loose on all these S10s.
The hoses from that tee go to the vacuum reservoir inside the left front fender behind the anti-lock module, the other goes to the HVAC controller in the dash (black hard plastic line) and to the transfer case vacuum switch 5/32 rubber line.
What I wouldn't do for a diagram for the vacuum hoses
@@scottlawder7617 no shit its subhuman dont have any sense to take a photo anyone can understand ... they always skip over what you need like where do that hose lead to
Where do the other 2 sides go acadentily ripped it off doing a motor swap
Thank You!! I had the same symptoms and after watching your video i found the exact same little hose broken. You saved me so much time taking my dash apart. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Great Video. I have just repaired my 1999 Blazer 4WD, working fine now. I can now control the air direction but one more problem, the A/C compressor is running but it is not getting cold.
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AND WATCHED YOUR VIDEO AND HOLEY MOLEY I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM... YOU DID GOOD..THANK YOU
You nailed it, thank you. I did have to replace the hose from that T to the motor, it collapsed about half way right where it turns over the break booster.
Great vid. I have a 2000 S10 4.3 4x4. I have owned it since I bought it in Nov of 1999. Being a mechanic, I know these trucks inside out. The servo under the battery tray is surly to be replaced on these. As well as all vacuum lines from the three tubed ball valve underneath. I've changed all these vacuum lines three times so far. If anyone has any questions about these trucks, feel free to ask me. Oh, and my beer bottles are real.
The heat in my blazer doesnt work got any advice
Yes would love vacuum diagram for my 96 S10...no heat from vents
I think I owe you a beer uxwbill. I was just about to tear out my dash and replace the whole control panel. The vacuum hose was trashed. Thank you so much for posting this video.
thank you for this video, i had the same problem with my 1999 chevy s-10 pick up truck, that vacuum line with the tee connection coming from the wheel well was so corroded.. the moment i touched it, it turnt to dust... :) i bought replacement vacuum hose and fixed it myself for under $9.00 .. THANK YOU ONCE AGAIN..
thanks bill. been driving my 2000 s-10 like this for a couple of years lol. but i live in ca. where it dosent get to cold. thanks for the post. now it works like a champ.
Seems that the brake booster area hoses like to leak, thankfully its usually easy to get to. My last Durango had a stuck blend door, probably a leaking hose to one of the vacuum servos under the dash, and the heater core was bad. Was dreading the repair, but in a bittersweet turn of events it ended up getting totaled. My year newer (2001) Durango now has a lovely mess of wires instead. And thankfully no leaks!
this video was very helpful i have a 2000 blazer and the heat controls along with the 4 hi and 4 lo was not engaging after changing the vacuum lines all works perfectly i can now drive through snow with confidence ty
just bought the....hell i forgot what i bought....haha... think it was the 7/32 and the 5/32 vac hose, in a prepackaged form at Oriellys. didnt quite understand the whole deal from your video, but i figured it out, got all three lines replaced.... fan freakin tastic! i actually can switch air to anywhere i want again!..... ty ty ty ty ty..... i cant believe how rotten that hose was..... still not getting quite as much heat as i should..... the heat control does work, but doesnt get quite as hot as it should..... next step, flush out heater core... when i get a round tuit ...
Thank you! save me a lot of money.I was checking for CO sensor replacement when I click with this Vacuum leak repair video, that was the problem I had.
I was having the same problem a for a few days then watched this and no more problem THANK YOU!!!
thanks!!! my problem was with my differential and heard about vacuum leak could have been the problem. i located disintegrated hoses in the same spot. but my hose was the one shown going down to nowhere and your video nailed where to look. saved myself alot of $. cost 1.98 for the hose and repaced a few others for that price. very cool ! thanks again !
Peter Vanek could you please tell me where the hose plugged into !
Thanks,
Barbara Jean
barbara barfield The one he wasn't sure about pulling out and knowing where it went was attached to a bolt on the firewall. I literally just solved this problem with an O'Rielly's associate. I have the same year and model as the truck hopefully you fixed it by now. I had done some research where it goes and everyone said there's was attached to the bolt but they were not sure it officially went there and it does
Jacob Lenart same truck as in the video*
I got a 97 blazer and had the same problem a while back. I was glad I just need to replace an easy vacuum line. Some fixes are easy.
Thanks for this video. I watched this video last night, went out this afternoon, popped the hood on my '98 S10 Blazer and in the exact same place by the brake booster my vacuum lines were collapsed from the engine block to that same TEE and to the left fender (were does that go anyway?). So I replaced 2 foot of 7/32" hose and about a foot of 5/32" hose. All for less than $5 in hose.
Thanks again
Okay, after the mechanic winked at his buddy and offered to fix it for $150, I see this video and doggonit repaired and working. Thanks!
big thank you for keeping me from pulling the dash
I just replaced the hose coming coming from the throttle body to that little plastic piece and that little piece the keykeeper was pulling that you said was there for a reason it had affected my mileage and was messing with my air fuel mixture to the point it had flooded my motor. after fixing that and a tune up my little 03 S10 is purring like a kitten :)
Dean
@uxwbill William, just a heads-up...some of the newer GM AC compressors do run full time. They are known as variable-displacement. Simply put, the compressor constantly adjusts it's output pressure internally and does not cycle the clutch.
Also some AC systems that use an expansion valve instead of an orifice tube run the compressor full time.
@uxwbill An airbag will not harm a properly belted adult. My mom was in a crash when the airbag in her '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee deployed and all she got was a little scratch on her chin. This was with the early full-power Chrysler airbag design, too. Since 1998, automakers have used smaller "depowered" airbags.
Great video. My S10 hvac had similar probs so I after watching this I checked mine and it was all shot. Going to advanced auto tommorrow thank you!!
Thanks Bill, You just saved me an amazing amount of stress, blazer is fixed. Thanks again.
I am looking into buying one of these trucks in the future...sure hope I don't have computer troubles with it!
Well, good thing it was not a vacuum line under the dash or a leaking servo for the vents. Got lucky there!
Love the cassette radio, I seem to have a knack for buying lots of cassettes on eBay now a days, must have around 65 now.
I enjoyed this! Great info and camaraderie. When you made the comment about Delphi it cracked me up you think a lot like I do LOL thanks for the informative video you guys are awesome
@uxwbill In the event of an airbag deployment, the collision damage would most likely be significant enough that you'd be replacing the entire truck, not just the airbag itself!
On my 97 and 98 Lesabre the module was behind the glovebox. (probably there on the Bonneville too) They contain solenoids which directs the pressure. It's well noted that the nipples on those style modules tend to get soft over time and lose vacuum pressure. Also the harness itself might begin to leak.
Luckily, I was able to go find a decent module out of a junkyard for $8 (AC Delco wants $450 for a new one.)
Thanks for the video! My son-in-law is having the same problem with his truck. Now we know where to start. Thanks again!
well you are the one that has recently commented lol, all others are 8 years ago, what does that vacuum line go to I have no heat, and my hose there is rotted and about to break, Ive checked all my actuators lol Ive did it all and that line , i happened to think of this video today same thing wrong with mine just wonder what it vacuums?
@@suzieq8379 One part goes under the top of the engine.....then into a "splitter", and then into the driver side fender. I didn't even re-connect the one going into the fender, and everything worked fine.
@@kelly806 well got my line fixed now I have heat
@@suzieq8379 Just in time for winter:)
Kelly Meacham hey I fixed mine I have heat now that’s what I was wondering if I would have heat and I do
@uxwbill Actually on the old systems before they had the orifice tube and pressure switches. They had an expansion valve that would open and close between the high side and low side to regulate pressure, and cause the freon to cool as it passed through the expansion valve. On those systems when the ac was on the compressor stayed on all the time. But yeah any modern system cycles the compressor.
Thanks. My ac went out and I thought it was low on free on. Went all summer without air. Then the other morning it was cool so I cut heater on and got nothing but vent air. Mine also would not come out at feet. Was going to check fuses because I have not heard of ac and heater going out at same time. Decided to check online first. Just saw your video, went outside popped the hood and sure enough my hose fell apart in my hand as soon as I touched it. Crossing fingers and hoping this is the issue. The age of the internet is great for things like this. Thanks for uploading sir.
***** well me and my dad just got done replacing all three lines and it still wont blow out feet and not getting warm or cool. Guess well have to try something else. Any suggestions? Thanks, I just knew this was my answer here.
***** where are other lines. There were two smaller ones coming off of a larger one. The ones in your video. One small end went on a plastic (valve/stem?) on side of the hood. Those were the only three that I saw. We replaced all of those. Sorry for inadequate vocabulary. I am def. not an automotive expert.
***** Hey thanks again for the videos. Things like this really help average people. Update on mine: Took it to a shop and they said actuators were good and seemed like the blend door was stuck for some reason. They said it would take 10 hours labor and cost at least $650. Dad told em put it back together and we would come get it. Low on money here. This morning me and dad removed the defrost under the hood and could see the door from the hole. When cutting heat on it only moved maybe half an inch. Took a long rod and pushed on it. It unstuck the door and it moved freely as it is supposed to. That was all it took. The heat works as good as ever. Took maybe thirty minutes and cost nothing. Glad I saw your video though, so my hoses have all been replaced. I had trouble finding blend door info on the web, so I plan on posting my fix on a few spots. Hopefully it can help others as you did. Your the man Bill. Much appreciated.
***** its worked fine since the last post. It was just stuck for some reason but after closing by hand one time, it now operates properly and the heat will smoke you out of there. Thanks for all the help sir.
Freon
OMG
Watching this and I go out and check and all three of the vacuum lines coming off of that T thing on my truck were rotting and crumbling away!
Now, I just gotta go get new vacuum lines and fix it,
(apparently, I'm not the only one saying THANKS lol)
thanks for the info, tried to fix mine its 95 s10 4 cylinder. on the four cylinder the vacuum 1line goes across the back of the engine to a larger tube, another end goes to a plastic bubble on the hood and the tee you fixed on yours goes back into the firewall with the main wiring harness. I rechecked all connections across back of engine. also I disconnected the temperature sensors thats on the passenger firewall up top near the blower motor. and removed it. there are three screws , after that you can take it out and see if it needs replacing mine was clean. put everything back together and my starting working again..
I have the same truck as you do, but my has no heat i have check everything. I have good air flow but no heat. I flush the heater core and change the thermostat. I need help (95 s10 chevy, 4x4, pickup truck) thanks
do you know where that rubber hose runs to down the fender? the one on my s10 blazer came off and i cant find where it goes to. any help?
Bill, my 99 Ford Ranger does this also, but under hard acceleration, the vents just close and stop blowing at all. And the truck does not idle down like it supposed to, it takes a little bit for it to get back down to idle after you push the clutch in, I have not looked into it too much for the fear of tearing the whole thing appart. But I think tomorrow I'll give it a visual look over to see if I'm as lucky as you were!
The hose, where it disappears under the fender, plugs into the vacuum reservoir! Other years had a big black bubble attached to the hood, or the driver fender.
@uxwbill Engine driven. They look like any compressor but have a variable "arrangement" for lack of a better term that controls how much pressure the compressor outputs at any given time.
Google Delphi V5 compressor if you want to learn more.
@uxwbill My 1997 VW Passat has a variable displacement A/C compressor. But then again it also has drive-by-wire (the accelerator is merely a potentiometer), so Volkswagen was pretty far ahead of their time back then. My Mazda, which is over a decade newer, has neither of these features!
Wow thanks!!! I have a check engine light and a p440 code - I went out and that exact same hose on my truck is falling apart!
thanks for posting this video it fixed my vacuum leak
Thank you for this video. I watched for another reason, and found that my S10 has an identical failure. To Advance Auto for some vacuum hose!
the vacuum line that runs in to the fender goes to a vacuum reservoir that in the fender instead of the little ball thats on the hood in the older models
THANK YOU! My '99 S-10 had the same problem, and after watching this video, I was able to replace that short hose coming off the T and now all is well. Maybe it's just the "car wash effect", but the engine seems to run better too! One question, tho: I used 7/32" hose (that's what that much longer piece is) but I saw another video that suggests it's 5/32". The 7/32" is working fine, but I want it to be right.
Yes I can direct the air anywhere (dash vents, defroster) except floor vents
Thanks
Love how you call it a truckling heheheeh because it is. Love it
Cool funnel... Hey I had issues with my cruise control and traced it back to a vacuum leak. Cheers. B. Champagne
Hey, I’m not gonna question if it’s a beer bottle, my dam truck drove me to work, drove me to poverty, and drove me to drinking………even more.
Thanks Much!! This was exactly my problem.
Same here. I replaced the short hose but the one going toward the fender really looks bad, would like to replace it if I knew how to find the other end.
Never mind, I found the other end but it was kinda hidden behind the anti-lock stuff. It just fits on a little nipple going to the vacuum reservoir behind the fender but it sticks out enough to stick the hose on it..
I still don't know what the real purpose of that line is. My actuator to change the vents wasn't working, I found that hose just hanging and since I didn't know where it went, put a plug in the end of it and that fixed my actuator. Now that I know where it goes, I tried connecting a new piece of hose to the nipple but it just fell right off again. I don't know if the nipple is bad or what but it's impossible get inside to do anything so I guess I'll just plug the line again.
where does the other hose go to?? i replaced the one for climate control and from/to block/tee but the other hose isn't attach to anything??
Tyler McGonigal the hose will go to the vacuum connector- it goes to the hose barb under the breather (you just pop the breather off using a spring loaded clip on the back side under the edge of the breather--and remove a couple connectors and then you can see where it goes under the breather/intake )where it gets its pressure from the engine and the white things are also hose barb connectors you can get at any autoparts store usually 8-ten different sizes and shapes straights-tees-l's ... for about 5 dollars.www.autozone.com/fittings-and-hose-line-connectors/vacuum-connector-and-tubing......this is all I know without seeing the video or having the manual in front of me...hope this helps.
barbara barfield i discovered on my 97 sonoma 2.2 ext cab the other hose goes to a canister mounted on the inside of the hood just above the t
I have a video but don't know how to put on here,trying to figure out it's on my facebook page , barbara.barfield.94@facebook.com
and I took the air filter out and didn't see anything is it under the canister itself ?
This is so funny I’ve come from being a small engine mechanic to now venturing into working on cars... small engines use the engine vacuum to pump fuel all the time and I always thought that was silly and probably specific to small engines. Apparently old cars drove the entire AC control setup with engine vac 😂
Engine vacuum still has its uses on modern cars. It provides for the power braking. On an old enough car, you'll also find it used to operate the spark advance.
That rust spot should be pretty easy to fix. Once on my 92 Olds I've fixed large rust holes with some computer casing tin.
@uxwbill What do you think about Volvo 850's? Are they worth buying? Or should i spend my money on something else like Volvo 740/940? what do you think about the Volvo 850?, you seem to know about cars :) Thankx!
Don't know If you didnt knew i was talking about Volvo 850? Well, i hope you can answer now =)
Kinda funny that you made this video cause I have had problems like this too. I have already replaced a few of my lines but it still acts up from time to time.
yes i have fixed it. for me it was the vacuun hose that runs from the T-Case Switch to the front axle acuator, it was completely dry roted all the way through the hose. first off i would check the actuator to see if it has any problems, if the seems to be ok then go and check your vac lines, they run from the switch over the transmission, goes up the passenger side of trans and then up into the motor area. watch these vids they help me
I have had 2 of these trucks a 98 and 03, and both had this same problem. Cheap hose causing a failure.
***** yea, seriously..... that factory hose was unbelievably crappy..... it wasn't even really close enough to any heat..... mine was almost like powder between intake and brake booster
Thanks for posting. Your problem was my problem to a T.
hey I want to thank you for your video it solved my problem with my S10 Chevy thanks a lot !!!!!
@uxwbill sony and kenwood make rds aftermarket stereos, they even make modules to keep the naughtieac's steering wheel controls in commision
That was rotted off on mine. The stub that it fits onto goes into the fender just behind that flat bracket holding the braking computer. It's easy to see in the evening with a flashlight and a mirror.
you guys are lovely and acceptable !! :D priceless video for s10 owners !! i have this hose exactly rotten but never figured out what was it for !! :D . thank u .
sure is
Thank you, sincerely.
Thanks for watching. I certainly hope you were able to get your truck and its vacuum lines fixed.
so after completely undoing most of my dash underneath i find this post... yep its 2 am and im outside under the hood in my robe and i find 3 completely rotted vacuum hoses which is keeping my ac from doing anything other then blow on all three areas... will let you know the outcome after a visit to autozone in the morning
i had same issue was but in my case the vacuum leak was causing 4x4 not to engage on my 01 zr2 blazer. And FYI The line that goes into the fender goes to the evap canister.
Thanks for the help. Have identical issue.
Oh and the line that you were tugging on at 6:22 goes to a little plastic block, i was stuppied and pushed the break booster out of the way and all the crap just to fine that inside the double wall is a little plastic block :/ all you need to do is get a flash light and look into the fender from the engine compartment, and just follow the line, trust me, if you have any issues i can make you a video :)
They both do. I get warm air and thats it. It never gets too hot...
My problem exactly. Thanks
I just did the same repair today for only $3, thanks guys really useful video. Any ideas on changing the blend door actuator? I have no heat.
nice video guys. My 98 s10 wont switch to the floor.
I got the same exact truck mine is a 98' it is now 2022 still have no rust on my truck and no I don't live in a region where they don't use salt on the road
I had the same issue with the deteriorated vac hose off that T.
ok when your working on a 1998 chevy blazer 4.3 lt to remove the valve covers the only side that's a pain in the but is the driver side this is how you get the driver side off first step take off surp belt then there are 3 or fore long bolts that are in the air conditioning bracket do not again do not try and remove the star bolt that sits in the bracket remove the nut that sits on the star bolt pull the ac unit back and its going to be a tight fit but you will get it hope this helps you es
Note do not use motor oil as lubricant on rubber hose it will break down the rubber making it not last as long.