Try focusing closer to the edge first. Much easier to split a log closer to the edge. Rather than trying to either wedge it or split it with a Maul or Axe directly from the center. You are also much more likely to get a wedge stuck in the center of a very knotty log, than if you work from the edge inward. Once you get the edge split open with a wedge, you can usually switch over to the Maul and finish the rest of the log relatively easily.
I was getting ready to comment pretty much the same thing. It’s always easier to start from the outside edge and work your way towards the center. Splitting of small flat pieces similar to taking off pieces from a deep fried blooming onion.I won’t use my wedges, unless I absolutely have to. it always feels like more work than just using the mall. It’s common for them to pop out and come after you. Sometimes striking you in the shin. That’s always fun 😎. A good way to get them started if you’re having trouble is cut a groove with the saw.
Took the words out of my mouth lol...Start in the middle? Wtf haha no don't do that...And get the Fiskars 8 lb. maul...Yesssss...And ALSO: Having trouble getting it to go in? Try flipping the log over, wood likes to worked one way more than another just like planing
To add to this: dried out logs will usually have a crack in the core that you should sort of follow out to the edge of the log and begin splitting from there. Makes it MUCH easier to get the initial split
When I was growing up as a young boy my dad and older brothers taught me to split woods without injuries. First, it is better to use a short small sledgehammer to easily pound the steel wedge in the heavy cutted log without hitting your hands to avoid injuries and without a struggle and let the steel wedge sit deep in the wood. After that, start using the long heavy sledgehammer. The firewood log 🪓 splits apart. Use two 2 steel wedges at the same time.
I've been starting with a 4 pound short handed sledgehammer to get the wedge started. Then when it's in there good you have some options. Starting at the edges of the log instead of dead center will be easier too.
When I'm bucking up the logs with my chainsaw, if they're real big rounds I'll dig the tip of my saw in the top of the round 3 times across the diameter. Perfect place to set your wedge when your ready to split
I know this is a late reply, but I'm just leaving this here if anyone has the same question. It's probably because a maul has a harder surface. Smack that with a hardened sledge and you have a recipie for chunks of steel shattering off into your face. Wedges are soft on purpose and will eventually mushroom out. You'll have to grind that away regularly to prevent shrapnel. That's not to say that it's always a bad idea, though. I have batoned hatchets through smaller logs, though with a 4-6" diameter piece of wood as a hammer. I have also seen others use a soft-faced mallet.
These days I just use my electric battery-powered 18'' EGO chainsaw to cut along the grain those big round logs into more manageable pieces. Takes a little longer, but its a lot less work than a wedge and a sledgehammer, which I used to do. Earlier, I was using either chainsaw or circular saw to make an initial cut, making about 1 inch deep groove, and then drive a couple wedges with a sledgehammer into the gap, but that was still a lot of work and took time, especially for freshly-cut Spring wood, full of Spring sap and water -- I had situations there where I would drive two to three wedges all the way in, and the piece still would not split. Now I am just cutting the big pieces all the way though with a chainsaw, and maybe split only smaller pieces.
My go to wedge is a ? 4 pound Twisted Cone Wedge they work very well ! The point on the diamond wedge make it easy to start. Plus they don't mushroom out and break off. Sending flying metal pieces. Only thing those flat ones are good for is? Cutting down trees with
For big rounds, like a metre across, steel wedge and a lump hammer is used to quarter it, so much easier and less effort than trying to split it with an axe..
I threw the head off my maul last weekend. Going to try the wedge method this weekend. Hell with a gas/hydraulic splitter that will need constant maintenance🤘🏻🤘🏻
I don't see why the wedge is needed -- I make one swing with the maul; if it sticks, the maul head *IS* the wedge I now use with the small or medium taps with the sledgehammer. I don't swing hard enough to risk levering the handle of the maul up into my face (I generally just need one hand on the sledgehammer). This solves the problem of having a difficult time starting the wedge.
At least some maul manufacturers will tell you not to pound on the maul. I think this is because of chipping/flying shrapnel risk. Do not know if this is a universal rule or if it depends on the brand.
That wood was still wet. You should have split that before letting it sit inside for a year. That's why everywhere you hit with the maul or wedge water would come to the surface of the round. That thing is going to build up so much creosote on the inside. Slip the wood then dry then once dry you can burn.
Slamming a maul into a log with a wedge already buried is a dangerous and dicey proposition. Buy a few wedges. If one gets wedged in, then you can work another one into a different area of the split line. You can even push the long over on the side and insert in lower down the split to finish up a tough split. This way you can control your attack on the log without the risk of metal edge meeting a blunt metal object by accident. Also, get one of your first wedges sharpened so that it sets more easily. Having it bounce out after wasting energy getting it started with a 10lb sledge is a waste of energy. Also hard on the wrists with those short taps choked up on the hammer handle. You may want to get initial sharper wedges started with a shorter 4 pound hammer that takes less energy. Granted, you're introducing a variety of tools with my recommendations, but your energy will be used more efficiently, you'll last longer, and you'll get more wood cut in any given session. Its you against the wood. Make sure you win every time.
First mistake you made was letting the wood sit a year, also that chunk you’re splitting looks like it has a knot in that end and if you flip it to the other end it may split. I use a x27 fiskars and split lot of 20 inch plus wood but I split it the same day I cut it. There also are some chunks that don’t split by hand.
Force = Mass x Acceleration. Lighter weight hammer or maul moving faster is much easier. Just enough to penetrate is perfect. Also you don't wear yourself out just picking the thing up and carrying it around. Also split from the edge not the center and for large logs split tangentially.
You took a bit of grief here, but i think youre on the right track. The only thing i would add is t experiment with different types of wedges. In the situation you showed here, a pointed wedge might have been the answer. A lot of people mentioned that you should have done the splitting while the wood was green. I think they missed the point that it was dead when you cut it. As most ash trees are these days. Also, real life doesnt always allow for splitting or even cutting at optimal times. Sometimes you just have to grab the wood when its alailable and get it home. Then do the rest through the year.
It seem like once you get the log split with the diamond wedge 👉👉 its easy with the maul, after using the wedge, to get it split... Go to town with the maul > BUT once it split down > where i can pick it up. Then i just take it over to the log splitter
Just the new mauls the edges are sharp> but to BLUNT! I have to slender them down. If they don't penetrate? There not going to split. Most of the time i bust a log with the wedge> makes easier with the maul
That's what i have. One side is a sledge head the other is the splitter. And my wedge is way better then his. Mines shaped like a spear and sinks into the wood like hot butter.
Split it after cutting and as others say, at the sides first, you did this to yourself, also you slam every spot like a pizza even if it doesnt crack just go one more round, this video is totally useless.
Try focusing closer to the edge first. Much easier to split a log closer to the edge. Rather than trying to either wedge it or split it with a Maul or Axe directly from the center. You are also much more likely to get a wedge stuck in the center of a very knotty log, than if you work from the edge inward. Once you get the edge split open with a wedge, you can usually switch over to the Maul and finish the rest of the log relatively easily.
i agree, start on an edge, away from any knots or start on a crack that may already be there. this guy will learn eventually!
I was getting ready to comment pretty much the same thing. It’s always easier to start from the outside edge and work your way towards the center. Splitting of small flat pieces similar to taking off pieces from a deep fried blooming onion.I won’t use my wedges, unless I absolutely have to. it always feels like more work than just using the mall. It’s common for them to pop out and come after you. Sometimes striking you in the shin. That’s always fun 😎. A good way to get them started if you’re having trouble is cut a groove with the saw.
Took the words out of my mouth lol...Start in the middle? Wtf haha no don't do that...And get the Fiskars 8 lb. maul...Yesssss...And ALSO: Having trouble getting it to go in? Try flipping the log over, wood likes to worked one way more than another just like planing
To add to this: dried out logs will usually have a crack in the core that you should sort of follow out to the edge of the log and begin splitting from there. Makes it MUCH easier to get the initial split
I use a wedge called The Bomb. It’s a tapered round metal, so the force goes out in more than one direction. I love it!
This is so calming. No noise at all in your back ground. No cars , no dogs, Nice video.
and boring.
@@hereticleader4187 A place cannot be boring. People are.
If you are bored in this place, thats because you are boring.
I am never bored.....
When I was growing up as a young boy my dad and older brothers taught me to split woods without injuries.
First, it is better to use a short small sledgehammer to easily pound the steel wedge in the heavy cutted log without hitting your hands to avoid injuries and without a struggle and let the steel wedge sit deep in the wood.
After that, start using the long heavy sledgehammer.
The firewood log 🪓 splits apart.
Use two 2 steel wedges at the same time.
When cutting the logs to length with the chainsaw, cut a groove into the log to give yourself a place to start the wedge.
I've been starting with a 4 pound short handed sledgehammer to get the wedge started. Then when it's in there good you have some options. Starting at the edges of the log instead of dead center will be easier too.
Just cut a tree down about the same size as that one and picked up a couple wedges, this video was helpful. You got a new subscriber
If you bring that wedge to a grinder and make the tip as thin as a good axe, it wont bounce out like that
When I'm bucking up the logs with my chainsaw, if they're real big rounds I'll dig the tip of my saw in the top of the round 3 times across the diameter. Perfect place to set your wedge when your ready to split
Thanks, why don't you hit the maul with the sledge once its a little bit in?
I know this is a late reply, but I'm just leaving this here if anyone has the same question.
It's probably because a maul has a harder surface. Smack that with a hardened sledge and you have a recipie for chunks of steel shattering off into your face.
Wedges are soft on purpose and will eventually mushroom out. You'll have to grind that away regularly to prevent shrapnel.
That's not to say that it's always a bad idea, though. I have batoned hatchets through smaller logs, though with a 4-6" diameter piece of wood as a hammer. I have also seen others use a soft-faced mallet.
Have you heard of the diamond wedges?
The eastwing splitter wedge,best on d market, fiskers isocore splitting maul is a great splitter, love d video,👍🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪
I have been splitting knotty red fir with an 8lb maul since I was 6 years old. Works just fine.
These days I just use my electric battery-powered 18'' EGO chainsaw to cut along the grain those big round logs into more manageable pieces. Takes a little longer, but its a lot less work than a wedge and a sledgehammer, which I used to do. Earlier, I was using either chainsaw or circular saw to make an initial cut, making about 1 inch deep groove, and then drive a couple wedges with a sledgehammer into the gap, but that was still a lot of work and took time, especially for freshly-cut Spring wood, full of Spring sap and water -- I had situations there where I would drive two to three wedges all the way in, and the piece still would not split. Now I am just cutting the big pieces all the way though with a chainsaw, and maybe split only smaller pieces.
My go to wedge is a ? 4 pound Twisted Cone Wedge they work very well ! The point on the diamond wedge make it easy to start. Plus they don't mushroom out and break off. Sending flying metal pieces. Only thing those flat ones are good for is? Cutting down trees with
Bad idea to get a steel wedge near a spinning saw chain
@@ronfox5519 Who does that? Not me
For big rounds, like a metre across, steel wedge and a lump hammer is used to quarter it, so much easier and less effort than trying to split it with an axe..
I threw the head off my maul last weekend. Going to try the wedge method this weekend. Hell with a gas/hydraulic splitter that will need constant maintenance🤘🏻🤘🏻
I don't see why the wedge is needed -- I make one swing with the maul; if it sticks, the maul head *IS* the wedge I now use with the small or medium taps with the sledgehammer. I don't swing hard enough to risk levering the handle of the maul up into my face (I generally just need one hand on the sledgehammer). This solves the problem of having a difficult time starting the wedge.
At least some maul manufacturers will tell you not to pound on the maul. I think this is because of chipping/flying shrapnel risk. Do not know if this is a universal rule or if it depends on the brand.
That wood was still wet. You should have split that before letting it sit inside for a year. That's why everywhere you hit with the maul or wedge water would come to the surface of the round. That thing is going to build up so much creosote on the inside. Slip the wood then dry then once dry you can burn.
Slamming a maul into a log with a wedge already buried is a dangerous and dicey proposition. Buy a few wedges. If one gets wedged in, then you can work another one into a different area of the split line. You can even push the long over on the side and insert in lower down the split to finish up a tough split. This way you can control your attack on the log without the risk of metal edge meeting a blunt metal object by accident. Also, get one of your first wedges sharpened so that it sets more easily. Having it bounce out after wasting energy getting it started with a 10lb sledge is a waste of energy. Also hard on the wrists with those short taps choked up on the hammer handle. You may want to get initial sharper wedges started with a shorter 4 pound hammer that takes less energy. Granted, you're introducing a variety of tools with my recommendations, but your energy will be used more efficiently, you'll last longer, and you'll get more wood cut in any given session. Its you against the wood. Make sure you win every time.
I have an idea now, of what I'll face next week when my tool arrives from USA, I have bigger logs😥
Hehe try using a husky thicc flathead and a regular hammer, works gewdd, def just a one situation where axe wasn't available. Great fire and shashlik
First mistake you made was letting the wood sit a year, also that chunk you’re splitting looks like it has a knot in that end and if you flip it to the other end it may split. I use a x27 fiskars and split lot of 20 inch plus wood but I split it the same day I cut it. There also are some chunks that don’t split by hand.
Force = Mass x Acceleration. Lighter weight hammer or maul moving faster is much easier. Just enough to penetrate is perfect. Also you don't wear yourself out just picking the thing up and carrying it around. Also split from the edge not the center and for large logs split tangentially.
You took a bit of grief here, but i think youre on the right track. The only thing i would add is t experiment with different types of wedges. In the situation you showed here, a pointed wedge might have been the answer.
A lot of people mentioned that you should have done the splitting while the wood was green. I think they missed the point that it was dead when you cut it. As most ash trees are these days. Also, real life doesnt always allow for splitting or even cutting at optimal times. Sometimes you just have to grab the wood when its alailable and get it home. Then do the rest through the year.
It seem like once you get the log split with the diamond wedge 👉👉 its easy with the maul, after using the wedge, to get it split... Go to town with the maul > BUT once it split down > where i can pick it up. Then i just take it over to the log splitter
Just the new mauls the edges are sharp> but to BLUNT! I have to slender them down. If they don't penetrate? There not going to split. Most of the time i bust a log with the wedge> makes easier with the maul
My grandpa taught me this
Why don't you just hit the maul once it's in?
Thank you!!!!!
You hit that one piece like 60 times bro! Nothing easy about that
Get an x27 bro
Ash is easy to split & that maul is not a good one. 😁
Your putting more energy with the sledgehammer just buy a bigger maul with a sledge on the back on it for if you need it
That's what i have. One side is a sledge head the other is the splitter. And my wedge is way better then his. Mines shaped like a spear and sinks into the wood like hot butter.
a guy who splits wood with a maul starts at the edge.
Split it after cutting and as others say, at the sides first, you did this to yourself, also you slam every spot like a pizza even if it doesnt crack just go one more round, this video is totally useless.
No.
That is some ugly wood!
Weak bro go to gym