Here is a technique from an old wagon tire man. Save a piece of the wood you use for the mallet head. Slowly heat your metal rings over the forge to expand them. Keep touching the mallet wood to the metal, and stop heating when the heat from the hoop starts to brown the wood. Put the hoop on the mallet and drive home. The shrinkage from cooling will make the hoop even tighter. And there will be no charring to crumble away and loosen the ring.
Like not looking !!! Well done as always! A hand-made thing always pleases its owner and serves him for many years !!!! Keep up the good work !!! Greetings from Russia!!!
I love how you take care of the insects before starting the fire! Everytime I see you doing it, it feel so great! Great work for the mallet, as usual! You are very talented!
Saw it on ista loved the thought of it . I hope your house cleaning is going great . Love the vids and keep up the good work . You have inspired and taught me how to work with leather good trait to have thanks for everything
this is way to make charcoal *Turn on captions for written commentary (CC in bottom right corner of screen). Charcoal is a valuable fuel that reaches a higher temperature than the very wood it’s made from. I’ve made some before, but with supplies running low due to furnace experiments, I decided to make another large batch of charcoal in a mound. I stacked the wood into a roughly conical shape (about 1 m wide and 75 cm high) and then built a thick wall of mud around the heap (this took 6 hours). Eight air entries were made in the base of the mound and one air exit hole was left at the top of the mound to allow the volatile components of the wood to escape while creating a natural draft to keep everything burning. The mound was lit and the flame burned backwards down the heap in the opposite direction to the draft. This protects the coal made above the level of the fire from burning as carbon dioxide rushes past instead of oxygen, preventing combustion of charcoal. Each air entry was sealed only when fire became visible through them. This is an easy way to tell when to close them up, i.e. when the fire had burned down all of the wood in the heap. When the last air entry was closed, the air exit at the top of the mound was sealed, 5 hours after starting. The next day when cool, a large arched opening was made in the side of the mound to extract the charcoal. Despite a few unburnt brands the yield and quality was good filling almost 2 baskets. To see if the kiln was reusable, I restacked it with timber cut from a fallen gum tree branch up the mountain. Due to the difficulty in reaching into the mound I stacked the wood in criss-crossed horizontal layers. The opening was sealed with mud and the mound lit as before. This time the mound burned quickly and I had to seal it early as the timber was burning at different rates, 3 hours after starting. Some large logs remained unburnt while charcoal that had already formed started to burn up being wasted as ash. When I opened it the next day it had still produced an ok amount of charcoal but was disappointingly low compared to the first batch. This may partly be due to some of the wood being still green though it’s probably more likely to be due to how it was stacked. The lesson here is that when making charcoal the wood needs to be tightly stacked with few air spaces between. If not, the mound admits too much oxygen that quickly burns the timber. Another thought I had was that wood may convert to charcoal better if laid vertically (or roughly so, like the cone in the first firing) so that the fire starts at the top of the wood and burns down. Stacking the wood in horizontal layers means that each layer has to set the one bellow alight leading to problems if the wood is green (use dry wood if stacking horizontally). By stacking wood vertically each piece is alight already and simply burns down towards the air entries. Stacking in this way also makes it easier to see fire in the air entries letting you know when to seal the mound. For the reasons above I may make another charcoal kiln in future in the shape of a cylinder with air entries around the base and an open top. The kiln would be re-usable and easily stacked. A conical pile of wood would protrude above the walls of the kiln and be plastered in a temporary cover of mud. The kiln would be fired as with a normal mound and when finished the temporary cover of mud would be removed to extract the charcoal
I think you got the idea from Jalager. When you was watching one of your parents channels on tv lol Looks great and great job making it!!!! Enjoyed your video and gave it a Thumbs Up
I sincerely think that using heartwood for the handle of your mallet may be better and more durable than sapwood. Anyway, that was a very nice video. Thank you for sharing. Greetings from France
heartwood is not preferable for handles since it's more brittle and thus more likely to crack or break. Sapwood on the other hand is more flexible and will act more as a spring and absorb the impact instead of cracking. Thank you very much!
I'm curious what it will look like after hitting a steel wedge a few hundred times. I have something similar but hitting the wedge off center bashed up the sides enough to cause issues.
Make N' Create: uses wooden mallet to make wooden mallet Me: what is this? Also me: that looks cool. Sort of dwarfish looking. (What is the correct version? Dwarfish? Dwarvish? Dwarven? ) Also, at 1:28 I thought the saw was actually going that fast, because it wasn't sped up, it was CUTS. (Get it? Like cuts in the video, but also because it's a saw? Hahaha, I'm so lame.) I wish I had a saw that was that fast though.
It looks like a round version of the giant square one the guy who runs The Old Hickory Forge. Did his video inspire you to make this one yourself? Because it made me want to make one when I saw his.
If you were to put the wedge slot and wedge itself perpendicular to the grain, that way it butts up right at the start of the grain inside the mallet eye. It won't want to wedge apart side to side, but forwards and back. This will reduce cracking very well.
Great video. But the wedge in the handle realy should be across the grain of the head. I tink it is mainly because of your nice steel rings on the head why the head did not split when you hammered the wedge in.
Here is a technique from an old wagon tire man. Save a piece of the wood you use for the mallet head. Slowly heat your metal rings over the forge to expand them. Keep touching the mallet wood to the metal, and stop heating when the heat from the hoop starts to brown the wood. Put the hoop on the mallet and drive home. The shrinkage from cooling will make the hoop even tighter. And there will be no charring to crumble away and loosen the ring.
*THATS IT IM GETTIN ME MALLET*
Ohhhhhh now Heustus
16:05 "oh god what is he going to do with those chickens"
16:07 "Oh he's just feeding them lol"
Yes, that had me thinking, too! A bit overkill just to spatchcock a chicken! 😉
Wood: *exists*
Make N' Create:im about to end this mans whole carrier
Coisas aleatórias apple: exists
Mallet: im about to end this mans whole carrier.
Career*
GumShoe sorry
Don't know what it is, but I absolutely LOVE the handle making part of these videos.
Haha thank you very much. I was actually thinking that people were getting tired of watching me using the drawknife.
@@MakeNCreate no the drawknife parts are always the best
Like not looking !!! Well done as always! A hand-made thing always pleases its owner and serves him for many years !!!! Keep up the good work !!! Greetings from Russia!!!
Thank you very much!
thank you for not charring it. I see so many people do i. It is not for everything. Your mallet looks amazing.
I love that you went out of your way to move that little bugger!
That's it! I'm gettin' me mallet!
Moth: *exists*
Make n' Create: *stops everything to admire and get to safety so it doesn't burn*
This needs to be pinned!
That seemed like a friendly moth. Cool paddle drill bit I've never seen one like that.
I love how you take care of the insects before starting the fire! Everytime I see you doing it, it feel so great! Great work for the mallet, as usual! You are very talented!
The apple smash made the whole video! Awesome man
3:35 Moth has no right being that cute
Very cute moth and cat!
10 extra points for not wasting the apple, Gallagher.
Saw it on ista loved the thought of it . I hope your house cleaning is going great . Love the vids and keep up the good work . You have inspired and taught me how to work with leather good trait to have thanks for everything
Glad to inspire :) Working mostly on cleaning out the workshop these days. Going home to make videos again on sunday :)
Splendid craftsmanship.
3:24
möth
bruder i need the lämp
The sounds of wood working at high speed is strangely soothing.
this is way to make charcoal
*Turn on captions for written commentary (CC in bottom right corner of screen). Charcoal is a valuable fuel that reaches a higher temperature than the very wood it’s made from. I’ve made some before, but with supplies running low due to furnace experiments, I decided to make another large batch of charcoal in a mound. I stacked the wood into a roughly conical shape (about 1 m wide and 75 cm high) and then built a thick wall of mud around the heap (this took 6 hours). Eight air entries were made in the base of the mound and one air exit hole was left at the top of the mound to allow the volatile components of the wood to escape while creating a natural draft to keep everything burning.
The mound was lit and the flame burned backwards down the heap in the opposite direction to the draft. This protects the coal made above the level of the fire from burning as carbon dioxide rushes past instead of oxygen, preventing combustion of charcoal. Each air entry was sealed only when fire became visible through them. This is an easy way to tell when to close them up, i.e. when the fire had burned down all of the wood in the heap. When the last air entry was closed, the air exit at the top of the mound was sealed, 5 hours after starting. The next day when cool, a large arched opening was made in the side of the mound to extract the charcoal. Despite a few unburnt brands the yield and quality was good filling almost 2 baskets.
To see if the kiln was reusable, I restacked it with timber cut from a fallen gum tree branch up the mountain. Due to the difficulty in reaching into the mound I stacked the wood in criss-crossed horizontal layers. The opening was sealed with mud and the mound lit as before. This time the mound burned quickly and I had to seal it early as the timber was burning at different rates, 3 hours after starting. Some large logs remained unburnt while charcoal that had already formed started to burn up being wasted as ash.
When I opened it the next day it had still produced an ok amount of charcoal but was disappointingly low compared to the first batch. This may partly be due to some of the wood being still green though it’s probably more likely to be due to how it was stacked. The lesson here is that when making charcoal the wood needs to be tightly stacked with few air spaces between. If not, the mound admits too much oxygen that quickly burns the timber.
Another thought I had was that wood may convert to charcoal better if laid vertically (or roughly so, like the cone in the first firing) so that the fire starts at the top of the wood and burns down. Stacking the wood in horizontal layers means that each layer has to set the one bellow alight leading to problems if the wood is green (use dry wood if stacking horizontally). By stacking wood vertically each piece is alight already and simply burns down towards the air entries. Stacking in this way also makes it easier to see fire in the air entries letting you know when to seal the mound.
For the reasons above I may make another charcoal kiln in future in the shape of a cylinder with air entries around the base and an open top. The kiln would be re-usable and easily stacked. A conical pile of wood would protrude above the walls of the kiln and be plastered in a temporary cover of mud. The kiln would be fired as with a normal mound and when finished the temporary cover of mud would be removed to extract the charcoal
Great job friend , I gotta try this Thankyou for sharing
You are very talented man and I hope you keep up the good work.
Sweet build, I could certainly find a use for one of those!
That looked like a really fun project! I need one!!!
3:30
the moth: screw lamp i want F O R G E !
The master has Golden hands
That’s it! I’m makin’ a mallet!
Nice build!
Saw it on your insta page and couldnt wait for the video. Awesome
Thank you!
Excelente herramienta!!! Un gran trabajo!
Nice, but you forgot to soak the mallet ends in water then mushroom the edges back to hold the hoops on.
Amazing, as always
Looks like a paladin's hammer from wow, amazing by the way!
Yes it does! Playing Vanilla soon ;)
Excellent Mallet, thank you for sharing :) ATB
I think you got the idea from Jalager. When you was watching one of your parents channels on tv lol
Looks great and great job making it!!!!
Enjoyed your video and gave it a Thumbs Up
Nice bit of impromptu wildlife spot!
"For steel wedges" pfft, please, you and I both know it's to smash chicken feed
Lol
That is a cool mallet. Looks really strong
Beautiful.
I sincerely think that using heartwood for the handle of your mallet may be better and more durable than sapwood.
Anyway, that was a very nice video. Thank you for sharing.
Greetings from France
heartwood is not preferable for handles since it's more brittle and thus more likely to crack or break. Sapwood on the other hand is more flexible and will act more as a spring and absorb the impact instead of cracking. Thank you very much!
Those are some great welds though
Hi 👋 good project, good job 👍
I'm curious what it will look like after hitting a steel wedge a few hundred times. I have something similar but hitting the wedge off center bashed up the sides enough to cause issues.
I've always called a one handed wooden hammer a mallet and a big two handed wooden hammer a maul - 'cause that's what it does to things! ;-)
Sehr gute Arbeit
Warum hast Du die Ringe nicht heiss aufgezogen das geht leichter
Make N' Create: uses wooden mallet to make wooden mallet
Me: what is this?
Also me: that looks cool. Sort of dwarfish looking. (What is the correct version? Dwarfish? Dwarvish? Dwarven? )
Also, at 1:28 I thought the saw was actually going that fast, because it wasn't sped up, it was CUTS. (Get it? Like cuts in the video, but also because it's a saw? Hahaha, I'm so lame.) I wish I had a saw that was that fast though.
Awesome as always :) what does adding the metal bands do for the hammer?
keeps it from splitting
It looks like a round version of the giant square one the guy who runs The Old Hickory Forge. Did his video inspire you to make this one yourself? Because it made me want to make one when I saw his.
Nice work...😉
Wants one of these mallets!
...........................please.
*ALRIGHT LET ME GET ME MALLET*
If you were to put the wedge slot and wedge itself perpendicular to the grain, that way it butts up right at the start of the grain inside the mallet eye. It won't want to wedge apart side to side, but forwards and back. This will reduce cracking very well.
Fantastic
Wow just wow ❤❤❤❤❤❤
Ghallager would be proud.
What’s the ratio for handle size to head size? Is it like for a six inch head the handle has to be at least an inch and a half?
An Orc basher! Nice. 👍
Great video thanks for the information
What type of coal do you use for forge please ?
What type of wood were you using?
syndes du er super god til at lave sådan noget
Ah yes, Muscled Hammer Guy's new hammer.
Are you making replacement mallets for Gallagher? 😂😂😂
And kids... That's how the sledge-o-matic was made...
That moth had no idea the fiery death it could have had
Now i know where all those level 1 human paladins get their weapons.
Why not forge weld the hoops ???
A brass mallet would also work right, since the brass can't wear out or break the steel, you also don't need a giant mallet if it is made of brass
Way cool 😎
make n' create is an animal friendly channel
Hi, What kind of wood did you usted please?
7:30 Lord Of The Rings !
That there is a Kirby-clobberin tool, don't try to fool us
Thought you were about to start clubbing chickens for a second lol
What wood is that head????
Great video. But the wedge in the handle realy should be across the grain of the head. I tink it is mainly because of your nice steel rings on the head why the head did not split when you hammered the wedge in.
True, I did not think of this! Head wouldn't have split though: There may be a lot of cracks in it, but I have no feeling that it's gonna split.
Thanks now im gonna use it on my annoying tia that acts as a lawyer to my little sister
long video for just apple sauce...... good work
New hammer wood
have you ever gained any injuries while doing this?
Slight injuries like sander paper or a wire brush
Not often but the occasional burn or cut does happen every once in a while.
**hears Eustis from the distance**
This makes me wanna play paper Mario again
Bravo
Wait can I recommend a movie for you to watch? ( if so you will laugh your ass off ;) )
If you boil the wood in water or steam just before putting the ring on, the wood will accept it better
I could really clobbah dat dere Kirby with that!
The cat was like the moth made an appearance its my turn
15:53 an apple a day keeps the doctor away
Bel realisation
No machine noise
Trying to keep it to a minimum.
Отличная работа!
ps бабочка!
Im disappointed that you didnt heat the metal and let it shrink over the mallet...
15:45 i wish it be my head
Why?
Things not going well?
Я то думал, чо он делает.? А это тот самый яблобой!
Apple Sauce Video ... : )
+Hay hay Apple
-What?!?!
15:56
Fantastic...bon travail.. continuez
Un fan marocain...contactez-moi
Svp...
What in the world is that tattoo on your arm lol
It looked like a ruler...
@@jacobbenns6090 I know...I was wondering why he has it
It's a ruler to measure stuff in a pinch.
4:18 rip headphone users