Honda certainly make great engines and I'm one of their fans having a Honda outboard on my Trailer-Sailer, ride a Honda scooter, use a Honda brush-cutter, have a Honda generator as well as a few Honda stationary engines around our farm, however I'm not totally convinced they're the best engine for an inboard installation. Yours seems to be doing a great job but two things worry me. One, I don't see an overboard exhaust to get rid of those deadly carbon monoxide gases and secondly the engine heat from an air-cooled engine must bother anyone sitting close, How far away can you get in a 12 foot dinghy, particularly when one would expect the only time one would use the engine on a sailboat is when there's no wind. At least that's the way I use my sailboat. I notice from the previous video you have a stuffing box that is leaking a bit of water, and I do know they have to a bit to keep them cool and lubricated. I do realize stuffing boxes are traditional and that may be why you have one but in my case I detest the leaky things and prefer to keep the salt water on the outside of an otherwise lovely dry boat. The best way of doing this I've found is to remove the gland and locknut from the fixed inboard bearing and fit a piece of radiator hose to the outside of the housing with enough length to be hose-clamped to a simple bronze bush with two seals both facing aft and a grease nipple between. You would have a completely dry boat if you try this. I used to use this method on my ski boats many years ago with big V8's driving them at 4k revs. Never a drop from the shafts. Cheap, easy and most effective. You can remove the tension spring of the seals if you wish and replace them with an appropriate o-ring but it's not really necessary as the grease keeps the salt water from them.
I have found that the outboard stuffing box stays cools because it is immersed.. the inboard one has a grease nipple. A a squirt of grease and a nip to tighten it up and I get zero leakage. I've done this once in 40 years, (about 15 years ago) looks like its time to do it again. I do grease the stuffing box every other time I go out, and the stern tube is by now fully packed with grease. It runs perfectly cool and perfectly dry. The water in the bilge is from a vigorous sail earlier in the day. this is a dry boat presently but that changes over the years as different things work a bit and the shift in humidity causes the timber to shrink and expand. The most recent leakage was around the center-case which is understandable for of a boat of her age. Thank goodness we have sikaflex these days. The butyl mastic in the garboard seam broke down and I had a lot of water coming in at one stage. I raked it out, did away with the caulking cotton, and used top grade sikaflex there and long the seams below the waterline, and gave it a good coat of paint and the boat has been perfectly dry regardless of the weather and how long she has been out of the water ever since.
I need to replace the muffler, as this one is getting noisy and I am guessing it is rusted out to some extent inside. We never have an issue with fumes, because we are moving forwards at 3 knots - no neutral in this boat. If you were idling it might be an issue. Apart from sitting on the opposite side to avoid burning yourself on the muffler, its not an issue for me. I recall the original wing had a riser that helped, but that was a very noisy oily thing by nature being side-valve and long stroke. It is part of the character of old powered boats. A bit like a Harley on the sea for those that like the sound. Personally I sail whenever possible.
@@SmallSailboatCruising I loved the sound of the Wing as it puttered along, for some reason mine had an adapter that allowed the use of old threaded galv water pipe, it allowed suitable extensions to the side of the hull and down to almost the water line
You can add a dog clutch. It would be handy but uses a lot of space and ads complexity. Honda used to make a reverse gearbox. Not sure if they still do. Again complexity, weight and space. Used it with neither for 40 years. Very workable in such a small boat. Rarely if ever need to unstow the oars.
Love the videos. I want to build an inboard setup, such as this. I am so sick of outboard motors. They are expensive, overly complicated for an average person to work on. Parts are ridiculously expensive. Just wondering no clutch is a bit awkward? Does this make the motor harder to start when in the water. Also the drag from the prop would slow the sailing down , not being able to free wheel.
The inboard option is very simple and reliable. No clutch is not a problem in a small boat like this, but it might be better to use a clutch for a larger heavier boat. Prop drag is there for sure but I have never had it any other way. I did take the prop off once when we went in the gaffers race. We still came last regardless!!
Other than the engine, what is the other stuff like the shaft and all the other things called? I don’t know much about engines but I am trying to make a homemade inboard engine but I don’t know what else I need to make it work with a propeller
Stuffing box acts as a bearing. Seals out the water. Thrust bearing takes the load of the motor. Flexible coupling compensates for minor alignment issues.
you have used an air cooled static motor, do you think I could use an air cooled motor on my yacht inplace of the seized diesel which is outrageously expensive to replace.It is only 8hp.
Great video, would you happen to know the pitch of that prop? I have one of those engines sitting around and have been thinking about using it in my winter project boat
Had a Villiers engine in my 5.4m skiff for over 30 years recently replaced with honda. Here are a few tips. 1. Large diameter propeller is more efficient, it comes at a cost of reduction gearing, aim for 1000 - 1200 rpm at the prop. 2. Use belt drive reduction, is clean and won't corrode, I use approx 3:1 reduction and twin V belt system. Multiple belts are good insurance against breakdown. 3. Corrosion is something to be managed. After every outing at sea, spray the engine with WD or CRC. Modern engines corrode faster than the old timers. 4. If using Honda engine a clutch or reverse is unesesary even around the wharf or sand bank just learn to turn off engine at the right time. 5. Exhaust. I've added a short extension to the muffler to direct away from the crew. Always an issue depending on which way the wind is blowing. 6. Remember: Keep it simple!
Very good summary. I like the bit about no reverse. Mine is direct drive too. People don't understand how that works in practice but oars work well if you cant judge when to turn it off.
Considering that the knockoff of this engine is 120bucks on amazon... I'm really interested in how to locate the rest of the kit. What's the prop dia and pitch? Seems from. The video that it's just idling... does it cavitate bad when reved up?
The bits and pieces came from an industrial bearing supplier. The stuffing boxes and the prop were from an old Couta boat. Yes just above idle for best performance reaching hull speed. Too slow can cause overheating. Zero cavitation. Cheers Chris.
You get used to it John. It is just a small boat, and I think there is some value in keeping it simple. Neutral would be very handy, but the mechanics of that take up a lot of space.
Sailing Moonlight I am looking to do the same thing I got a putt putt with all running gear just deciding on motor so you would recommend the neutral gear my sailing boat is 18 foot flat barge always hard to find a decent gear box ...
I'm currently building a small inboard motor boat, and I need to order some kind of bearing that can seal water out. Any idea what it's called or where to get it?
It is variable, using the throttle on the engine. The lower limit is determined by the point the decompressor kicks in. It needs to rev just enough to prevent this as it loses power and will cut out if the decompressor kicks in (The decompressor is there to help with ease of starting). Also at low revs, it does not generate enough airflow to properly cool the engine. Upper and lower rev limits are set by turning a screw on the throttle mechanism. Once set, you can vary the speed within the upper and lower limits you set.
You lose internal space i guess with this setup, what would be the benefits over an outboard? I have neither so just interested to understand the reasoning behind this type of propulsion.
FAB Manly you don’t get any tea bagging. Lower centre of gravity. Motor is dry so not exposed to salt as much. Air cooled. Just another quirky thing I guess. Been around since fishermen decided they could make a better livelihood and travel longer distances safely. Driven by the need to provide for their families or save enough to buy a bigger boat.
Im many US states. (Missouri and Arkansas are examples) if you use an outboard you have to title and insure the motor and the boat separately. But if its an inboard the motor and boat are titled and insured as one item.... Making it cheaper to use an inboard in titling costs, taxes, and insurance.
John Colley yes it’s a bit noisy, but not as noisy (or messy) as the original Wing. Generally prefer to have it ticking over at low revs. I’m in no hurry to get anywhere.
Honda certainly make great engines and I'm one of their fans having a Honda outboard on my Trailer-Sailer, ride a Honda scooter, use a Honda brush-cutter, have a Honda generator as well as a few Honda stationary engines around our farm, however I'm not totally convinced they're the best engine for an inboard installation. Yours seems to be doing a great job but two things worry me. One, I don't see an overboard exhaust to get rid of those deadly carbon monoxide gases and secondly the engine heat from an air-cooled engine must bother anyone sitting close, How far away can you get in a 12 foot dinghy, particularly when one would expect the only time one would use the engine on a sailboat is when there's no wind. At least that's the way I use my sailboat.
I notice from the previous video you have a stuffing box that is leaking a bit of water, and I do know they have to a bit to keep them cool and lubricated.
I do realize stuffing boxes are traditional and that may be why you have one but in my case I detest the leaky things and prefer to keep the salt water on the outside of an otherwise lovely dry boat. The best way of doing this I've found is to remove the gland and locknut from the fixed inboard bearing and fit a piece of radiator hose to the outside of the housing with enough length to be hose-clamped to a simple bronze bush with two seals both facing aft and a grease nipple between. You would have a completely dry boat if you try this. I used to use this method on my ski boats many years ago with big V8's driving them at 4k revs. Never a drop from the shafts. Cheap, easy and most effective. You can remove the tension spring of the seals if you wish and replace them with an appropriate o-ring but it's not really necessary as the grease keeps the salt water from them.
I have found that the outboard stuffing box stays cools because it is immersed.. the inboard one has a grease nipple. A a squirt of grease and a nip to tighten it up and I get zero leakage. I've done this once in 40 years, (about 15 years ago) looks like its time to do it again. I do grease the stuffing box every other time I go out, and the stern tube is by now fully packed with grease. It runs perfectly cool and perfectly dry. The water in the bilge is from a vigorous sail earlier in the day. this is a dry boat presently but that changes over the years as different things work a bit and the shift in humidity causes the timber to shrink and expand. The most recent leakage was around the center-case which is understandable for of a boat of her age. Thank goodness we have sikaflex these days. The butyl mastic in the garboard seam broke down and I had a lot of water coming in at one stage. I raked it out, did away with the caulking cotton, and used top grade sikaflex there and long the seams below the waterline, and gave it a good coat of paint and the boat has been perfectly dry regardless of the weather and how long she has been out of the water ever since.
I need to replace the muffler, as this one is getting noisy and I am guessing it is rusted out to some extent inside. We never have an issue with fumes, because we are moving forwards at 3 knots - no neutral in this boat. If you were idling it might be an issue. Apart from sitting on the opposite side to avoid burning yourself on the muffler, its not an issue for me. I recall the original wing had a riser that helped, but that was a very noisy oily thing by nature being side-valve and long stroke. It is part of the character of old powered boats. A bit like a Harley on the sea for those that like the sound. Personally I sail whenever possible.
@@SmallSailboatCruising Thankfully sikaflex is a wonderful product as many boaties have found.
@@SmallSailboatCruising I loved the sound of the Wing as it puttered along, for some reason mine had an adapter that allowed the use of old threaded galv water pipe, it allowed suitable extensions to the side of the hull and down to almost the water line
You can add a dog clutch. It would be handy but uses a lot of space and ads complexity. Honda used to make a reverse gearbox. Not sure if they still do. Again complexity, weight and space. Used it with neither for 40 years. Very workable in such a small boat. Rarely if ever need to unstow the oars.
Keep it light, keep it simple. Oars are still good for reverse.
can you please tell me does it get hot or it maintain heat ok fred thank you
I had an earlier model that overheated but with this one it has never been an issue despite our hot climate.
Brilliant idea...
Thank you! Cheers!
Love the videos. I want to build an inboard setup, such as this. I am so sick of outboard motors. They are expensive, overly complicated for an average person to work on. Parts are ridiculously expensive. Just wondering no clutch is a bit awkward? Does this make the motor harder to start when in the water. Also the drag from the prop would slow the sailing down , not being able to free wheel.
The inboard option is very simple and reliable. No clutch is not a problem in a small boat like this, but it might be better to use a clutch for a larger heavier boat. Prop drag is there for sure but I have never had it any other way. I did take the prop off once when we went in the gaffers race. We still came last regardless!!
Starting has never been an issue. The Honda has a decompressor built in, but of course, you are underway straight away as you are aware.
They don’t look pretty hanging odd the back either.
Other than the engine, what is the other stuff like the shaft and all the other things called? I don’t know much about engines but I am trying to make a homemade inboard engine but I don’t know what else I need to make it work with a propeller
Stuffing box acts as a bearing. Seals out the water. Thrust bearing takes the load of the motor. Flexible coupling compensates for minor alignment issues.
you have used an air cooled static motor, do you think I could use an air cooled motor on my yacht inplace of the seized diesel which is outrageously expensive to replace.It is only 8hp.
Surprising it’s not more common. Ventilation is important.
Mine is in an open boat. Overheating could be an issue. And heating the boat up as well. I wonder if there is any precedent?
Petrol fumes not a good idea.
The motor I was looking at was a diesel so no petrol fumes, the only down side would be extra ventilation to dissipate the heat.
@@charlieford5523 you might need an engine box with a fan in there.
Great video, would you happen to know the pitch of that prop? I have one of those engines sitting around and have been thinking about using it in my winter project boat
That one has been lost in the mist of time Im sorry. It probably came out of a Tasmanian Couta boat.
Clueless on the pitch sorry.
Does anyone have a method for working out the pitch on the prop?
Had a Villiers engine in my 5.4m skiff for over 30 years recently replaced with honda. Here are a few tips.
1. Large diameter propeller is more efficient, it comes at a cost of reduction gearing, aim for 1000 - 1200 rpm at the prop.
2. Use belt drive reduction, is clean and won't corrode, I use approx 3:1 reduction and twin V belt system. Multiple belts are good insurance against breakdown.
3. Corrosion is something to be managed. After every outing at sea, spray the engine with WD or CRC. Modern engines corrode faster than the old timers.
4. If using Honda engine a clutch or reverse is unesesary even around the wharf or sand bank just learn to turn off engine at the right time.
5. Exhaust. I've added a short extension to the muffler to direct away from the crew. Always an issue depending on which way the wind is blowing.
6. Remember: Keep it simple!
Very good summary. I like the bit about no reverse. Mine is direct drive too. People don't understand how that works in practice but oars work well if you cant judge when to turn it off.
this is the type of engine/setup used by fishermens here in the Philippines on their outtriggers called (Pumpboat).....direct to the prop
Interesting. Such rugged and reliable little engines.
Considering that the knockoff of this engine is 120bucks on amazon... I'm really interested in how to locate the rest of the kit. What's the prop dia and pitch? Seems from. The video that it's just idling... does it cavitate bad when reved up?
The bits and pieces came from an industrial bearing supplier. The stuffing boxes and the prop were from an old Couta boat. Yes just above idle for best performance reaching hull speed. Too slow can cause overheating. Zero cavitation. Cheers Chris.
Thank you for sharing your story. I take it that not having a reverse gear is not a problem?
You get used to it John. It is just a small boat, and I think there is some value in keeping it simple. Neutral would be very handy, but the mechanics of that take up a lot of space.
Sailing Moonlight I am looking to do the same thing I got a putt putt with all running gear just deciding on motor so you would recommend the neutral gear my sailing boat is 18 foot flat barge always hard to find a decent gear box ...
I'm currently building a small inboard motor boat, and I need to order some kind of bearing that can seal water out. Any idea what it's called or where to get it?
It’s called a
Stuffing box. Very common bit of gear. Get a 5/8” one for my size of
Boat.
Sometimes called a packing box or stern gland
How do you change how fast the propeller spins? I’m thinking about building a boat but I have no clue about engines.
Ben With the modern motors you’ve gotta cut the idle speed right back and set the high speed at a limit that’s acceptable
Sailing Moonlight so is it only able to go one speed, or are you able to speed/slow down while moving
It is variable, using the throttle on the engine. The lower limit is determined by the point the decompressor kicks in. It needs to rev just enough to prevent this as it loses power and will cut out if the decompressor kicks in (The decompressor is there to help with ease of starting). Also at low revs, it does not generate enough airflow to properly cool the engine. Upper and lower rev limits are set by turning a screw on the throttle mechanism. Once set, you can vary the speed within the upper and lower limits you set.
Does this mean that you are always moving forward with the engine on?
Ben correct. No neutral either. If it’s on your moving forward. Works well in practice. Simple system with fewer parts to go wrong.
You lose internal space i guess with this setup, what would be the benefits over an outboard? I have neither so just interested to understand the reasoning behind this type of propulsion.
FAB Manly you don’t get any tea bagging. Lower centre of gravity. Motor is dry so not exposed to salt as much. Air cooled. Just another quirky thing I guess. Been around since fishermen decided they could make a better livelihood and travel longer distances safely. Driven by the need to provide for their families or save enough to buy a bigger boat.
Im many US states. (Missouri and Arkansas are examples) if you use an outboard you have to title and insure the motor and the boat separately. But if its an inboard the motor and boat are titled and insured as one item.... Making it cheaper to use an inboard in titling costs, taxes, and insurance.
cost is also a factor. an inboard setup using a small engine like this can be done for less than half the cost of an outboard motor.
Thrust bearing is a must otherwise the engine will not last long
Some motors can take thrust. But most can’t so beat to er on the safe side.
Love this approach to the problem! ua-cam.com/video/gfeZ5O4G0SA/v-deo.html 🤔
as noisy as my 2 horse Honda outboard.
John Colley yes it’s a bit noisy, but not as noisy (or messy) as the original Wing. Generally prefer to have it ticking over at low revs. I’m in no hurry to get anywhere.
bearing placement ....people
Not sure what you mean? Can you explain?