This video should have gotten a more clickbaity title, something like... Scale Model Painting gone HORRIBLY WRONG - CRACKED HULL! POLICE CALLED! This kit is weird lol
There are many, many tutorials covering this subject on UA-cam, but I found this one the most informative by far. You always seem to strike the right balance of a professional 'how to' injected with brilliant comedy moments. You're never monotone in your speech (like some tutorials that I could mention 'YAWN') and they always get me chuckling! Well done mate, and carry on the good work, its appreciated by us all.
If you are concerned about colour balance then manual white balance is your friend. After you've set up your lights etc but before you start filming, use a white sheet of paper in your target area to manually adjust the white balance. This is a lot easier and quicker than adjusting in post. Really enjoying and learning from your work. Thanks.
Thanks Mark. Yeah, I use manual balance. Somehow the colors are always a bit off on video when compared to photos. I realised it also depends a lot how I hold the model against the camera. Under certain angles it reflects so much light into the sensor the color looks deep yellow.
It's not hard to see the crack in the video, I spotted it immediately and with the back hatch as well. Great camera angles and great lighting. Exceptional technique. Thank you for this.
I'm glad you made the disclaimer that this is NOT realistic, but artistic. I'm so tired of modelers trying to BS some fake science explanation about the surface being smaller therefore shadows are smaller.. yeah. it's a miniature. EVERYTHING is smaller. You can do what you like, just don't lie about it. :) I was also going to mention the difference between the video and photo colors, but it seems like you handled it!
I think I figured that color difference already. It just needed more time spent in post production and playing a little with all the color balance switches. It should be noticeable a few videos later :)
Colour modulation with oils is waaaay better than colour modulation with the airbrush! Way more control about location, colour, opacity...and if you mess up you just wipe it off with thinner rather than repainting the whole thing :) Oils are always the best!
WORD But from now on we're calling this technique Ambient Occlusion! Many people commented this and it honestly sounds so much cooler. That means I'll be doing an update video on this (with more clickbaity title)
Really great video's! I've been painting wargame figures for over 15 years and have only this year picked up a 1/35, the learning curve is quite daunting to say the least (but I've learned from you quite a bit already, thanks!)
you say the technique isn't realistic Martin, however, when you reduce the scale of a model you start to loose definition and it makes it harder for the eye to understand the shapes of a volume. Whilst the technique isn't 'accurate', I'd argue it actually make the model more realistic as you replace the definition and depth you loose from the reduction of scale :) The idea of painting in shadows and highlights to better represent 3D surfaces is something we do all the time in mini painting.
Well of course, but then again miniatures like figures, busts etc have natural light and dark zones which are determined by the light source. In this case it's really artificial. But as many pointed out, it resembles ambient occlusion from video games. So I guess I'll start calling it that!
Martin I'm not sure I agree with calling this forced contrast. As a professional video game artist we use very similar techniques to this with Ambient Occlusion maps and a grime or dirt pass. I think you are correct on flat panels it is not realistic, but it does mimic real life Ambient Occlusion on most of the areas you used it. Which to simplify is areas where light can't get to do to geometrical issues. Now we aim for scientifically correct ideas most of the time, so most things like color modulation we would never do, but this is so similar to game texture passes on AO and dirt I thought I should mention it. Really what this step seems to me is a pass where places the pin wash would go with a much softer falloff and wider coverage.
Thanks for the incredible amount of info Adam! Does ambient occlusion work with "fake" lights too? Like, if I decided to add some highlights in the same unnatural way just to boost the contrast?
The white background looks pretty good and white on my monitor mate. Not a model maker myself but I really enjoy watching your videos and skill in model making. Sadly I dont have the patience or time these days. Regards Wayne
I love this technique! I agree that it's not particularly realistic, but it gives a really nice impressionistic effect that helps emphasize all the detail-y goodness. I love all your stuff, Martin =D
This is only the second time I've seen plastic crack the way its happened here, and that was only on the "rubber" portion of my T-62 road wheels, which were molded in very strange brittle plastic compared to the "normal" plastic the rest of the kit was molded in. I agree this forced contrast... ambient occlusion... look the cat is flying around the room causing soft shadows on the ceiling... whatever you want to call it, draws visual interest to this piece. Keep up the great content! :) Cheers mate!
Interesting, one of those rubber rims cracked on my T-62 build too, but that was because I attempted to glue it in place with Mr. Cement S which is very aggressive. I dry-fitted the remaining ones and had no more cracks.
@@NightShiftScaleModels Strange indeed. I noticed the cracking after I applied filters and washes. Perhaps the thinners within these products were too aggressive... who knows?
@@geekyrocket9714 I suppose some Japanese kits are just designed to have a very tight and precise fit. This results in a lot of stress in the plastic and something as simple as white spirit or other type of enamel thinner can push it past the breaking point.
LOL! Your bloopers sound awfully familiar. I feel your pain Martin. I can't tell you how many takes I do in my videos as well...you know obviously. Another great video and I really like this technique and I'm glad you used the word "artistic". I've heard others say, "this isn't art"! I call BS on that comment as we all have to use some artistic licence when modelling or the things we create would be boring and dull as a butter knife. Keep up the great "ARTISTIC" works!! Cheers.
@@SmallSoldier yes, doing a live voiceover would be absolutely impossible with me :) I'd stutter all the time and I always listen to podcasts and audiobooks while working, so... there would be 2 narrators talking over each other :)
My dude! Quick question: do you add any kind of varnish between your oil streaking/filter stage and this one? If not, how long do you wait for the oils to dry before using thinner again during this step?
@@MidwinterMinis hi, 1. I think Night Shift covered this question in his guide about washes, but not sure 2. strugling with oil washes myself, did some research, someone shared a good video - ua-cam.com/video/oE_9XijaHP8/v-deo.html guy drops a bit of oil paint on cardboard, this cardboard sucks oil from mixture and you have the pigment. This way it dries faster and you have more control. He says that after this pile of pigment can be reactivated during 3-4 days, but its a "big" chunk of oil paint, so thin layer of oil should dry in 1-2 days But, I havent tested it yet
Nope, I never seal any weathering layer with varnishes. I'd give oils, washes, enamel dust or rust at least a day to dry. Depends on the surface of course. You can layer these effects on top of each other on a matt surface after 30 minutes of so. Of course, if you're careful and don't flood the surface with thinner and don't maul the surface with your brush, just tap gently. This question is so frequently asked it begs to become a video :)
A solution for color calibration is to use a color chart/white balance card before your shots, from there you can easily correct for variations in color, exposure and the like. There are plenty of videos on color checkers and how to use them.
I absolutely LOVE your work Night Shift. Look fwd to every video u post. I think UA-cam and the web in general has been a great help to the hobby. While it doesnt appear it's ever gonna be a mainstream hobby (from the looks of confusion I get from my friends about doing it) it's made me feel a bit less "strange" for being so into it 🤣. One quick question, have you ever tried making the contrast and color "cartoony" and over exaggerated on purpose?
Another great video. I'd like to see you paint and weather turret interiors and what I'd really like to see is how you paint hull red primer colours with the chalk handwriting like on your Maus thumbnail.
whoa first! and nice video! :) I clicked so fast as always. you teach me so many techniques and never shy away from "you want a better looking model, don't cut corners and take your time and paint all the details."
Nice one. This is my first comment on one of your videos. I like your channel a lot. To my opinion your Videos are always a lot of fun to watch because you add some fun to your videos. You don't take it too seriuos with your comments. Always make some jokes.
I tried this effect on my test model (the HL 1/16 M1 Abrams). First I put down a coat or two of Vallejo acrylic yellow...but the paint was too thin! I found this out when I tried to do weathering with oil paints. All the scrubbing from the brush scrubbed clear through the paint to the base coat. I realized for next time I need to put down a thicker base coat AND not scrub quite so much - that plus put the clear coat of gloss over the base coat, too, which you should do anyway for the pin washes etc. to flow. Then later you come back when you are doine weathering and spray with flat clear.
Hi, I am really enjoying your videos. Great work. Regarding the colour shifting problem you mentioned. This is likely due to the tank’s yellow resembling what the camera sees as a tungsten light cast and it automatically tries to adjust to it. To correct this, set the camera to your studio light’s colour ‘temperature’. Probably 6500k or daylight.
Some plastics don't react well with oil paint. I ALWAYS do a few layers of primer before i start painting then I use a couple coats of flat or semigloss topcoat before I start with weathering and using oil paints as some oil paints like to eat at plastic just like enamel paints do! I hope this helps everyone or anyone! Great work by the way on the tank... minus the cracks. OUCHIE!!!!
Well I basically do all of that, primer, varnish, everything. It's really weird as this never happened to me before. Oh well, at least it can be partially fixed.
I suppose with tanks it's not too bad having cracks as they could easily be made to look like battle damage. Also with that in mind it is as if the tank was used in heavy artillery strikes but by some miracle survived to see another day?
As for your white balance "problem": Have you tried putting a white/grey card in some frames? This gives the camera or post software a "known color" starting point
Hello! Fantastico job My friend!😂 Can I ask you what sequence of whethering you use? 1) oil Paint for PIN wash 2) oil Paint for contrast 3) chipping 4) oil Paint for aging camouflage 5) mud and dust 6) other? Thank! I've seen all your videos Mat
Thanks for going over such things in great detail! It makes them very tempting to try:) I assume oil forced-highlights are also done on this step. But what if I want to put some gradients on my model with oils (as an alternative to modulation without an airbrush)? It seems to fit well before distressing. Does distressing make sense at all when we already have color modulation underneath? There is probably no universal answer, but what does your experience tell? Thank you for your videos and potential answers.
Fine Molds is not the only Japanese kit manufacturer that uses this kind of styrene. I recently built a 1/72 x-wing from Bandai and that thing basically fell apart just before I finished it (though I fortunately managed to put it back together).
Great videos. Thank you so much. I wonder if you can explain how to get contrast and Chipping, Rust Effects, in a black tank. I thik black is quite difficult to apply this techniques and I don´t know even how to begin. Thank you!
Well I think the black tank shouldn't be really pure black, more like a very dark grey, so you have some room to play around. You can then add more contrast with black oil paints... add light chips with lighter shade of grey and the dark steel chips with dark brown paint. Rust will pop nicely on a surface like that, same with dust effects.
Ahoj, prosimte olejove barvy jako tady na videu nanasis na zalakovany model pololesklym lakem? A prelakovavas kdyz mas hotovo nebo uz se to znova nelakuje. Diky moc.
I work almost exclusively with acrylic paint (barring the occasional rattle can), and I think it's a lot easier to use oils. Better control, mostly. The better wargaming modelers (like Piers Brand) use oils for that, not acrylic paint.
This can be compared to dodging and burning in photography, dodging is the lightening or specific areas and burning, as in this video, is the darkening of specific areas
Thanks. The reason I was asking is because I already have black enamel paint and don't have any oil paints. So it looks like I'm going to have to buy some :)
And here I'm trying to catch up with your channel. 27 videos already viewed, 15 more to go :) When you apply this ‘force contrast’ tecnhique, for instance, near the hatches, the diluent will not reactivate the previous pin washes? Thanks!
Hi Night, I just wanted to ask your opinion on something, I'm about to start on a tamiya M551 sheridan and I'm debating having a go at replicating a metallic texture based as you did on this tank. Problem is the Sheridan was build out of aluminum, it was after all an Airborne tank, and looking at photos the metal doesn't appear to have all that much a noticeable texture. I know from experience that aluminum tends to have a very 'flat' surface. So should I bother or not?
Old comment, but the Sheridan had a steel turret on that aluminum hull, so you could experiment with some rolled-armor-texture on the turret while leaving the hull alone.
I really enjoy watching your films. I have one question for you: could you make a video about making zimmerit? I m building a panther A tank , and i have done a lot of tests with many materials, but most of them doesn't look good. I would be so greatfull if you make a video about it ;)
YAAAY 2 pools of enamel thinner! :] enamel thinner does work into plastic, no matter the type or brand. however the ps has to be somewhat weakened (or inherently very thin) for ex like bent etc. either during moulding or afterwards, and/or extra thin type of cement or something nitro cellulose based is introduced into the mix. weird stuff like this does happen especially with small parts like plastic tow cables that are bent to shape on the hull or more interestingly around highly polished surfaces like ac canopy for ex: instant disaster. not in this case tho, you'r lucky it's an armor model, cheers. :)
It's a creepy thing in its own way. Like, you never know if it can happen again. I literally heard the model crack several times when it happened, but felt like nah, that can't be. Then, the next day, I saw the damage and well... now I feel a little paranoid about this model.
You don't need to varnish your model if you use lacquer paints like I do on this model. However yes, it was varnished after the airbrush work was done with satin varnish, but by now the surface is quite flat because of blended oil dots from the previous video.
Let me prove you wrong in the next video :D I'm building it as a vehicle stored outside in the US for some time... in a sort of tank scrapyard? There's a photo of it with some other Japanese tanks, but it's very low resolution i.ytimg.com/vi/4mkS8EodQbA/maxresdefault.jpg
Hello! I was just wondering, I’m not experienced at making models I’m starting my first right now and you’re a massive help, but is there a reason why you use oil paint specifically? Can you use acrylic for this kind of work?
Thanks! I shoot in RAW. This issue was bugging me so I played a little bit more with color correction and think I fixed the problem. It should become apparent in 2-3 videos from now.
What paints would you recommend for different nations' tanks? I see with the Sharotank what I can use for Soviet models, but what about German or American tanks?
@@NightShiftScaleModels What I meant was that different nations use different colors because of different climates. So which colors should you use for different tanks? It would be nice if you'd made a video on proper color schemes for different models.
Oh, I'm not a huge expert on this. If you're unsure I'd recommend getting one of the accurate color sets made by either Lifecolor, AMMO, or AK-Interactive.
Wash is enamel, so it's much harder to blend into a smooth transition. It wouldn't create the same effect and would be more difficult to achieve a similar result
This video should have gotten a more clickbaity title, something like...
Scale Model Painting gone HORRIBLY WRONG - CRACKED HULL! POLICE CALLED!
This kit is weird lol
You forgot "In the 'hood -- gun pulled -- gone sexual -- 2019 (not clickbait!)"
YOU WILL NEVER BELIEVE WHAT HAPPENED TO THIS MODEL AFTER I APPLIED THINNER!!!
(nice video, thanks again :) )
8YO KID SPENDS 10,000$ ON SCALE MODELS IN FORTNITE + PROOF
I wanna thank you for getting me back into armor modeling. Maybe now with your wisdom o-great one, I won’t suck as bad at it.
@@headwaves6986 That's so awesome!! Thank you!
My life was empty. Now I look forward to every Friday.
Aww!
Finally! Somebody who Says: "4BO" instead of "Russian Green" 😁
I can't decide which is better: the tutorial, the russian accent, or the jokes. Anyway, thanks for the help and greeting from Brazil.
Hi Martin, I'm a fan of your sense of humor on your vídeos, much more funny then the "monocromatic" vídeos around
Haha, thanks!
There are many, many tutorials covering this subject on UA-cam, but I found this one the most informative by far. You always seem to strike the right balance of a professional 'how to' injected with brilliant comedy moments. You're never monotone in your speech (like some tutorials that I could mention 'YAWN') and they always get me chuckling!
Well done mate, and carry on the good work, its appreciated by us all.
If you are concerned about colour balance then manual white balance is your friend. After you've set up your lights etc but before you start filming, use a white sheet of paper in your target area to manually adjust the white balance. This is a lot easier and quicker than adjusting in post.
Really enjoying and learning from your work. Thanks.
Thanks Mark. Yeah, I use manual balance. Somehow the colors are always a bit off on video when compared to photos. I realised it also depends a lot how I hold the model against the camera. Under certain angles it reflects so much light into the sensor the color looks deep yellow.
It's not hard to see the crack in the video, I spotted it immediately and with the back hatch as well. Great camera angles and great lighting. Exceptional technique. Thank you for this.
I've watched a lot of these types of videos lately, and yours are humourous and a delight to watch.
Another awesome, easy to understand and replicate. Thanks for all of your videos!!
I'm glad you made the disclaimer that this is NOT realistic, but artistic. I'm so tired of modelers trying to BS some fake science explanation about the surface being smaller therefore shadows are smaller.. yeah. it's a miniature. EVERYTHING is smaller. You can do what you like, just don't lie about it. :)
I was also going to mention the difference between the video and photo colors, but it seems like you handled it!
I think I figured that color difference already. It just needed more time spent in post production and playing a little with all the color balance switches. It should be noticeable a few videos later :)
Colour modulation with oils is waaaay better than colour modulation with the airbrush! Way more control about location, colour, opacity...and if you mess up you just wipe it off with thinner rather than repainting the whole thing :) Oils are always the best!
Unless it's on a seagull
WORD
But from now on we're calling this technique Ambient Occlusion! Many people commented this and it honestly sounds so much cooler. That means I'll be doing an update video on this (with more clickbaity title)
@@NightShiftScaleModels It should be interesting hearing you say Ambient Occlusion. :)
@@SmallSoldier IS THAT A FREAKIN CHALLENGE? :)
@@NightShiftScaleModels That is a good name for it :) Now I'll need to remember that for next time...
Really great video's! I've been painting wargame figures for over 15 years and have only this year picked up a 1/35, the learning curve is quite daunting to say the least (but I've learned from you quite a bit already, thanks!)
That's great to hear, thanks!
Great tutorial, as usual, many thanks. I think you have nailed the late war Japanese "Parched grass" color, don't worry about it.
Another nice and stronk piece of online entertainment! Tenk you very much for your work, dear Uncle Night Shift!
been wondering how people did it until you finally showed this technique in its full detail ! thank you !
I love all of your playlists. Especially this one. Please make more 1/35 scale full list like this.. You are the best. love it
Sooooooooo. Good! Video quality, background music, steps, etc. 👍👍
you say the technique isn't realistic Martin, however, when you reduce the scale of a model you start to loose definition and it makes it harder for the eye to understand the shapes of a volume. Whilst the technique isn't 'accurate', I'd argue it actually make the model more realistic as you replace the definition and depth you loose from the reduction of scale :)
The idea of painting in shadows and highlights to better represent 3D surfaces is something we do all the time in mini painting.
Well of course, but then again miniatures like figures, busts etc have natural light and dark zones which are determined by the light source. In this case it's really artificial. But as many pointed out, it resembles ambient occlusion from video games. So I guess I'll start calling it that!
Great! I apply an effect on my models with water color pencils, now I know I was doing Forced Contrast all the time. Cheers from Brazil.
Or as others pointed out, Ambient Occlusion! :) Really cool stuff doing it with watercolors.
Martin I'm not sure I agree with calling this forced contrast. As a professional video game artist we use very similar techniques to this with Ambient Occlusion maps and a grime or dirt pass. I think you are correct on flat panels it is not realistic, but it does mimic real life Ambient Occlusion on most of the areas you used it. Which to simplify is areas where light can't get to do to geometrical issues. Now we aim for scientifically correct ideas most of the time, so most things like color modulation we would never do, but this is so similar to game texture passes on AO and dirt I thought I should mention it. Really what this step seems to me is a pass where places the pin wash would go with a much softer falloff and wider coverage.
Thanks for the incredible amount of info Adam! Does ambient occlusion work with "fake" lights too? Like, if I decided to add some highlights in the same unnatural way just to boost the contrast?
Always a pleasure to cosy down with a cup of coffee and some great tips.
The white background looks pretty good and white on my monitor mate. Not a model maker myself but I really enjoy watching your videos and skill in model making. Sadly I dont have the patience or time these days.
Regards Wayne
Simple and effective! Thanks a lot for your funny videos and regards from Spain!!
I love this technique! I agree that it's not particularly realistic, but it gives a really nice impressionistic effect that helps emphasize all the detail-y goodness. I love all your stuff, Martin =D
Thanks Andrew! Just wait until you see what the remaining techniques do with this effect :)
Another diamond in your collection of tutorials Night! :)
This is only the second time I've seen plastic crack the way its happened here, and that was only on the "rubber" portion of my T-62 road wheels, which were molded in very strange brittle plastic compared to the "normal" plastic the rest of the kit was molded in. I agree this forced contrast... ambient occlusion... look the cat is flying around the room causing soft shadows on the ceiling... whatever you want to call it, draws visual interest to this piece. Keep up the great content! :)
Cheers mate!
Interesting, one of those rubber rims cracked on my T-62 build too, but that was because I attempted to glue it in place with Mr. Cement S which is very aggressive. I dry-fitted the remaining ones and had no more cracks.
@@NightShiftScaleModels Strange indeed. I noticed the cracking after I applied filters and washes. Perhaps the thinners within these products were too aggressive... who knows?
@@geekyrocket9714 I suppose some Japanese kits are just designed to have a very tight and precise fit. This results in a lot of stress in the plastic and something as simple as white spirit or other type of enamel thinner can push it past the breaking point.
I had the same problem with a older kit .i had to use CA ,super glue to fix it .awesome Video keep up the hard work
I'll put my faith into chipping, rust and other techniques to conceal it. Hope it works!
LOL! Your bloopers sound awfully familiar. I feel your pain Martin. I can't tell you how many takes I do in my videos as well...you know obviously. Another great video and I really like this technique and I'm glad you used the word "artistic". I've heard others say, "this isn't art"! I call BS on that comment as we all have to use some artistic licence when modelling or the things we create would be boring and dull as a butter knife. Keep up the great "ARTISTIC" works!! Cheers.
Sometimes I feel it is art, other times I don't, depends on how much effort I put into the model I guess :) You do live voice-over, right?
Yes live and recorded depending on the situation. Do you voice over?
@@SmallSoldier yes, doing a live voiceover would be absolutely impossible with me :) I'd stutter all the time and I always listen to podcasts and audiobooks while working, so... there would be 2 narrators talking over each other :)
@@NightShiftScaleModels LOL! I do the same when I know I'll be doing a voice over segment.
"Ambient Occlusion" that's what video games and computer graphics call this shadowing effect your making here
And I shall call it like that from now on!
love these vids, 80% tutorial - 20% subtle memes
My dude! Quick question: do you add any kind of varnish between your oil streaking/filter stage and this one? If not, how long do you wait for the oils to dry before using thinner again during this step?
I use a hair dryer to speed up the drying process 😉👍
@@the-primered-thumb Sure, sure, but won't the thinner agitate the previous layer of oils, even if they're dry?
@@MidwinterMinis hi,
1. I think Night Shift covered this question in his guide about washes, but not sure
2. strugling with oil washes myself, did some research, someone shared a good video -
ua-cam.com/video/oE_9XijaHP8/v-deo.html
guy drops a bit of oil paint on cardboard, this cardboard sucks oil from mixture and you have the pigment. This way it dries faster and you have more control. He says that after this pile of pigment can be reactivated during 3-4 days, but its a "big" chunk of oil paint, so thin layer of oil should dry in 1-2 days
But, I havent tested it yet
Nope, I never seal any weathering layer with varnishes. I'd give oils, washes, enamel dust or rust at least a day to dry. Depends on the surface of course. You can layer these effects on top of each other on a matt surface after 30 minutes of so. Of course, if you're careful and don't flood the surface with thinner and don't maul the surface with your brush, just tap gently. This question is so frequently asked it begs to become a video :)
A solution for color calibration is to use a color chart/white balance card before your shots, from there you can easily correct for variations in color, exposure and the like. There are plenty of videos on color checkers and how to use them.
Yup, that would help me. However I think I fixed the issue with more fiddling in post production. All should look better in a few videos.
Man this video really CRACKED me up
Poor tank received puns of damage and y'all keep cracking jokes here
I absolutely LOVE your work Night Shift. Look fwd to every video u post. I think UA-cam and the web in general has been a great help to the hobby. While it doesnt appear it's ever gonna be a mainstream hobby (from the looks of confusion I get from my friends about doing it) it's made me feel a bit less "strange" for being so into it 🤣. One quick question, have you ever tried making the contrast and color "cartoony" and over exaggerated on purpose?
I will study a lot. Very nice.
Another great video. I'd like to see you paint and weather turret interiors and what I'd really like to see is how you paint hull red primer colours with the chalk handwriting like on your Maus thumbnail.
Well, gotta be honest, I really feel like painting another oxide red model!
@@NightShiftScaleModels please do! I want to do my VK4502 turret like it lol
whoa first! and nice video! :) I clicked so fast as always. you teach me so many techniques and never shy away from "you want a better looking model, don't cut corners and take your time and paint all the details."
That's just a byproduct of me trying to have as much fun as possible with each kit :) Also, have a cookie!
Nice one. This is my first comment on one of your videos. I like your channel a lot. To my opinion your Videos are always a lot of fun to watch because you add some fun to your videos. You don't take it too seriuos with your comments. Always make some jokes.
It's all about fun and good vibes :)
Title for this vídeo: -"SKY IS FALLING!!! ALSO... SHADING! 😂😂 Great vídeo!
Nice technique, like the effect. I will have to give it a try. Excellent video 👍
Iy
Cracking video Martin.....I will get my coat!!!...
I tried this effect on my test model (the HL 1/16 M1 Abrams). First I put down a coat or two of Vallejo acrylic yellow...but the paint was too thin! I found this out when I tried to do weathering with oil paints. All the scrubbing from the brush scrubbed clear through the paint to the base coat. I realized for next time I need to put down a thicker base coat AND not scrub quite so much - that plus put the clear coat of gloss over the base coat, too, which you should do anyway for the pin washes etc. to flow. Then later you come back when you are doine weathering and spray with flat clear.
Awesome video Martin! Question, for this technique, would you use the same color on, say, a NATO/dark green colored vehicle?
Thanks and yes, this is a universal color which I use every time. Of course, on darker vehicles the effect just needs to be stronger.
Hi, I am really enjoying your videos. Great work. Regarding the colour shifting problem you mentioned. This is likely due to the tank’s yellow resembling what the camera sees as a tungsten light cast and it automatically tries to adjust to it. To correct this, set the camera to your studio light’s colour ‘temperature’. Probably 6500k or daylight.
Say nightshift, could we get a tutorial on winter camouflage oil working and blending/modulation? Perhaps some unique weathering to it too? Thanks!
Yup, I'll be painting a winter camouflage tank after this series is finished!
How should i do these "fake shadows" in a three colour camo? I should use one colour or three colours?
Super video and I can't wait for next tutorial🙂
I use this color on every model, it's very versatile :)
Tha k you so much for sharing your techniques, love the videos, keep up the great work!
Thank you , Martin .
You got the like, show me more Uncle nightshift!
Excellent tutorial Martin!
Awesome video again I think the crack looked great it tells a story of long ago well in my head it does 🤯
Some plastics don't react well with oil paint. I ALWAYS do a few layers of primer before i start painting then I use a couple coats of flat or semigloss topcoat before I start with weathering and using oil paints as some oil paints like to eat at plastic just like enamel paints do! I hope this helps everyone or anyone! Great work by the way on the tank... minus the cracks. OUCHIE!!!!
Well I basically do all of that, primer, varnish, everything. It's really weird as this never happened to me before. Oh well, at least it can be partially fixed.
I suppose with tanks it's not too bad having cracks as they could easily be made to look like battle damage. Also with that in mind it is as if the tank was used in heavy artillery strikes but by some miracle survived to see another day?
Information and entertainment all-in-one video.
Looks great, I will try to replicate this technique
As for your white balance "problem": Have you tried putting a white/grey card in some frames? This gives the camera or post software a "known color" starting point
Man, when you're finally done with this one, I think it deserves a celebratory shot of rakija. I mean for me. Feel free to have your own.
Sake to make it culturally appropriate 💪
Hello! Fantastico job My friend!😂
Can I ask you what sequence of whethering you use?
1) oil Paint for PIN wash
2) oil Paint for contrast
3) chipping
4) oil Paint for aging camouflage
5) mud and dust
6) other?
Thank! I've seen all your videos
Mat
Thanks for going over such things in great detail! It makes them very tempting to try:)
I assume oil forced-highlights are also done on this step.
But what if I want to put some gradients on my model with oils (as an alternative to modulation without an airbrush)? It seems to fit well before distressing.
Does distressing make sense at all when we already have color modulation underneath? There is probably no universal answer, but what does your experience tell?
Thank you for your videos and potential answers.
thanks a lot mate! I honestly don’t know, haven’t tried that combination yet
very good content!! keed doing this king of videos!! maybe a panzer gray or a 3 tone german camo next time! thanks!
This technique can be used on both of them as well :)
Fine Molds is not the only Japanese kit manufacturer that uses this kind of styrene. I recently built a 1/72 x-wing from Bandai and that thing basically fell apart just before I finished it (though I fortunately managed to put it back together).
Japanese really don't like enamel thinners :(
@@NightShiftScaleModelsyup, unlike us they just do not appreciate the good old sniffy sniffy :)
Always having a good time sir ...... seems like you are ...... Fred
Great Video again,but even with camara problems (not the Original colour) it looks great.thx for toturial
Thanks, I think I fixed the issue already, should become apparent a few videos later :)
Nice to know, you make the best toturials funny and full of knowledge (sorry for the bad english i am german)
Your videos are top notch!
I had Type 4 Chi-to plastic crack on me too!
:(
Now I get it-I think.
Its basically a blended heavy, selective pinwash...?
Almost, yeah. One friend of mine even calls this technique "Dry wash".
Great videos. Thank you so much. I wonder if you can explain how to get contrast and Chipping, Rust Effects, in a black tank. I thik black is quite difficult to apply this techniques and I don´t know even how to begin. Thank you!
Well I think the black tank shouldn't be really pure black, more like a very dark grey, so you have some room to play around. You can then add more contrast with black oil paints... add light chips with lighter shade of grey and the dark steel chips with dark brown paint. Rust will pop nicely on a surface like that, same with dust effects.
@@NightShiftScaleModels I'll try it. Thank you so much.
Love your work. Very inspirational. Keep it up
Ahoj, prosimte olejove barvy jako tady na videu nanasis na zalakovany model pololesklym lakem? A prelakovavas kdyz mas hotovo nebo uz se to znova nelakuje. Diky moc.
You have cool vids my friend. Fun to watch. Keep it up.
Makes me wonder if you can achieve this same effect with acrylic paints and washes.
Me too :D
I work almost exclusively with acrylic paint (barring the occasional rattle can), and I think it's a lot easier to use oils. Better control, mostly.
The better wargaming modelers (like Piers Brand) use oils for that, not acrylic paint.
This is a very useful tutorial.
Awesome video as always. And, yes I had fun watching it :)
Nice, interesting video. Again, some good technics. 👍🏻
I truly enjoy your videos :)
2am Baby! Night Shift!
What a great timing!
May i ask, did you wet the blending brush with thinner ?,
I guess I could say... Cracking job.
This model suffered puns of damage...
Yeah, and I doubt anyone will stop cracking these cracking puns anytime soon.
This can be compared to dodging and burning in photography, dodging is the lightening or specific areas and burning, as in this video, is the darkening of specific areas
Great video as always.
WOWWW CONTINUE
You make this look so easy 🤣
Cool stuff, as always. Thank you for making videos so often. It's not sarcasm! :)
Great video, thank you. Was waiting for a new video from you :)))
Good shit my mane, you're talented
Quick question, as I'm still a bit of a beginner: Can I use enamels instead of oil paints?
yes, but it won't be nearly as easy to blend.
What Jon said. And as such, I wouldn't recommend it if you're a beginner.
Thanks. The reason I was asking is because I already have black enamel paint and don't have any oil paints. So it looks like I'm going to have to buy some :)
And here I'm trying to catch up with your channel. 27 videos already viewed, 15 more to go :)
When you apply this ‘force contrast’ tecnhique, for instance, near the hatches, the diluent will not reactivate the previous pin washes?
Thanks!
Nice!
You should apply it once the washes had some time to dry, let's say after 1 day.
Thanks!
do it on a matte surface, after applying a matte varnish?
Hi Night, I just wanted to ask your opinion on something, I'm about to start on a tamiya M551 sheridan and I'm debating having a go at replicating a metallic texture based as you did on this tank. Problem is the Sheridan was build out of aluminum, it was after all an Airborne tank, and looking at photos the metal doesn't appear to have all that much a noticeable texture. I know from experience that aluminum tends to have a very 'flat' surface. So should I bother or not?
Hey, yeah, I'd leave the surface smooth. Aside from aluminium, the Sheridan is paper thin. I think it would look very odd if it had any rough texture.
Old comment, but the Sheridan had a steel turret on that aluminum hull, so you could experiment with some rolled-armor-texture on the turret while leaving the hull alone.
Thanks!
I really enjoy watching your films. I have one question for you: could you make a video about making zimmerit? I m building a panther A tank , and i have done a lot of tests with many materials, but most of them doesn't look good. I would be so greatfull if you make a video about it ;)
I'll make a video on resin zimmerit and on making homemade zimm from epoxy putty, I just need to build those kits that will have it :)
Thanks :D
YAAAY 2 pools of enamel thinner! :]
enamel thinner does work into plastic, no matter the type or brand. however the ps has to be somewhat weakened (or inherently very thin) for ex like bent etc. either during moulding or afterwards, and/or extra thin type of cement or something nitro cellulose based is introduced into the mix. weird stuff like this does happen especially with small parts like plastic tow cables that are bent to shape on the hull or more interestingly around highly polished surfaces like ac canopy for ex: instant disaster. not in this case tho, you'r lucky it's an armor model, cheers. :)
It's a creepy thing in its own way. Like, you never know if it can happen again. I literally heard the model crack several times when it happened, but felt like nah, that can't be. Then, the next day, I saw the damage and well... now I feel a little paranoid about this model.
@Night Shift do you blending oils in satine base or gloss/matt? any varnish before oils?
matt surface makes them tougher to blend. glossy coat makes it very easy. satin is a good compromise
Such an informative video. Great tips.
Do you do this technique over painted model , or dull/gloss coat?
You don't need to varnish your model if you use lacquer paints like I do on this model. However yes, it was varnished after the airbrush work was done with satin varnish, but by now the surface is quite flat because of blended oil dots from the previous video.
@@NightShiftScaleModels Thank you.
Since it's meant to be a prototype that was never used in combat, it seems to me there's a limited amount you can do with chipping and dirt/mud.
Let me prove you wrong in the next video :D I'm building it as a vehicle stored outside in the US for some time... in a sort of tank scrapyard? There's a photo of it with some other Japanese tanks, but it's very low resolution i.ytimg.com/vi/4mkS8EodQbA/maxresdefault.jpg
Hello! I was just wondering, I’m not experienced at making models I’m starting my first right now and you’re a massive help, but is there a reason why you use oil paint specifically? Can you use acrylic for this kind of work?
A little late of a reply but oils make it very easy to blend, acrylics tend to not blend and when they dry they can leave dark rings
Great work as always!
As for the image coloration vs the video coloration, what format are you shooting your photos (RAW or JPEG) vs the video?
Thanks! I shoot in RAW. This issue was bugging me so I played a little bit more with color correction and think I fixed the problem. It should become apparent in 2-3 videos from now.
What paints would you recommend for different nations' tanks? I see with the Sharotank what I can use for Soviet models, but what about German or American tanks?
This paint is universal, regardless the nation 👌
@@NightShiftScaleModels What I meant was that different nations use different colors because of different climates. So which colors should you use for different tanks? It would be nice if you'd made a video on proper color schemes for different models.
Oh, I'm not a huge expert on this. If you're unsure I'd recommend getting one of the accurate color sets made by either Lifecolor, AMMO, or AK-Interactive.
@@NightShiftScaleModels Tanks a lot! (pun intended)
Whenever i see that youve uploaded i always give a mini air fist pump and say "YESSS!". keep up the great work
Would you get the same effect if you did a wash then wipe away?
Wash is enamel, so it's much harder to blend into a smooth transition. It wouldn't create the same effect and would be more difficult to achieve a similar result