Every one of your videos has at least one shot that is incredible. Today it's 5:43. The bleach bypass roll was cool too, very post-apocalyptic. More so than regular film stocks in bleach bypass, that is.
This is really cool, I recently picked up 8 rolls of this stuff (as Flic Film Elektra 100, but same thing, Kodak Aerocolor IV) and I can't wait to shoot it. Mind you, I'll likely be shooting at box speed or overexposing by a stop, developing in regular C41 😅 I do appreciate these experiments though, shows how versatile the film is!
I just want you to know how much I love your channel! You are one of the few wizards willing to screw up film for the greater good of the community! 💜🔥
This is a super cool stock, I definitely need to try developing some in E-6. I wonder if you could shoot with a warming filter to correct for that blue cast when cross processing!
Analog Resurgence did a video on cross processing Santacolor/Aerocolor as E6. He recommended a warming filter, though one perhaps a tad cooler than 85B.
@@atticdarkroom I once asked the guys at Kamerastore and they did mention something about a filter when crosprosessing as E6, i just cant remember what filter.
the paper boxes are a short term storage solution. the film will absorb water out of the air, deterioraring the emulsion more rapidly. thats why all film storage containers are water tight. the easiest way to make film containers water tight and cheap is injection moulded plastic. its also VERY recycleable because the HDPE they are made from are very clean and uncontaminated.
Thanks for Reviewing it Personally i Pushed it to 800 ISO and it came out wonderful! As for the Reason they dont do it in 120 aswell, is that they just cant find anyone that can make the Backing paper for it.
I am surprised by your BW+C41 dev results. I know that some BW chemicals are better suited than other for this operation. For instance DDX and HC110-B provides good results whereas Rodinal and D-76 are not so good. I always process my positive this way and never had an issue. I have some santacolor 100 maybe I should give a try. Are you planning to test the Washi X? I guess it is in the same aera of work. Maskless film that can be process either as a positive or a negative.
That's good to know. I developed this with Rodinal, but I also have some DD-X laying around. Do you have any suggestions for times and dilutions? I'm sure some of the issues I had was not knowing and essentially guessing. Like I mentioned in the video, this process is still new to me and a work in progress, I'll definitely keep trying though.
@@atticdarkroom with DD-X , as a first step for a positive , I use 1+4 dilution/ 12 min / 38°C. So hotter and longer than normal BW . This create a good mask before re-exposition to light.
@@atticdarkroom Rodinal can activate the color dyes like a very weak color developer. When I try this, I use high concentration new formula HC110 - about 10:1 and develop hot and long.
Popho is selling the same thing as Luminar 100. It should be easier to scan without the orange mask, Perhaps your scanner is set to compensate for that somehow? I've also experimented with E6 processing. You always want to push a stop to increase contrast. It appears that underexposing by a stop and a half and pushing one stop gives the best result, but I still need to verify that. The colors I've gotten are quite good without extreme saturation of a Provia or Ektachrome. It reminds me of what I recall of Astia.
I shot a roll of Flic's Aerocolor brandname. It was technically a very good film, but no quality jumped out as enticing to use again. The clear-ish base probably makes it easier to print on black and white, but that's about all I can think of.
Did you tried to stand develop C41? I'm doing this method to blackandwhite, every time it works great. Wanted also to try shoot and develop color film but i really REALLY dont wanna deal with keeping right temp and time. Seen few tutorials online, but they not so clear to me.
Nice! Definitely a lot of the results you are seeing here a result of the scanner more than it is of the film - the normal frames you shot first were definitely very muted and low contrast compared to what you get, even from a lab who are used to 'normal' C41 film or camera scanning it.
I can’t really tell if Portland is a trashy place or if the subjects and locations you choose to shoot happen to be disproportionally trashy. (In a good way, I should say. I almost have a sick admiration for the angsty looseness I see in these photos.)
Maybe let’s try UV or IR film with filters? Should be cool to trichrome NIR for example, UV is also cool depending on the range, like the skin changes absorption depending on the range. Also some astrophoto could be interesting. And please add new music, it’s like watching the same video over and over😅
can you redscale this film please (or any Aerocolor IV film)? since it has a clear base I would like to see how it looks with the red layer first and the blue layer last
I got mine from the crowdfunding campaign. I guess not many places carry it, luckily there are other folks respooling Aerocolor IV. And I'd like to try the new ORWO stuff, I just have to find some.
![Дон ДОН, Алаудинов и СБЕЖАВШИЕ из под Курска ахматовцы 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dEfCf5IK26Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Wake up baby Attic Darkroom just dropped
not ruining the 69 likes so lmk when it's higher so i can like this
@@jennyy8808You can like now
Morale of the story: Everything is *passable* if you color correct it
Love the bleach bypass look on this film.
I really like those E6 results! I tend to purposely hunt for that kind of cast with expired slide film (Astia
I also processed this film in B&W and C41 - my positives came out looking almost exactly like yours. Overexposing by 2 stops had the 'best' results.
Is there anywhere that I can see these results? Thanks
THE KING IS BACKKKK
It's wild how much range you can get out of that! Nice video, man.
Every one of your videos has at least one shot that is incredible. Today it's 5:43. The bleach bypass roll was cool too, very post-apocalyptic. More so than regular film stocks in bleach bypass, that is.
yayyyy :3:3
Finally new video!!!
You should definitely try shooting with some autochrome plates
The hopping crow photo is magical
This is really cool, I recently picked up 8 rolls of this stuff (as Flic Film Elektra 100, but same thing, Kodak Aerocolor IV) and I can't wait to shoot it. Mind you, I'll likely be shooting at box speed or overexposing by a stop, developing in regular C41 😅 I do appreciate these experiments though, shows how versatile the film is!
I just want you to know how much I love your channel! You are one of the few wizards willing to screw up film for the greater good of the community! 💜🔥
I'd love to see a video showcasing your favourite shots you've taken! Most photos while you're experimenting come out so lovely too.
i've shot a bunch of aerocolour just as a cheap happy snaps film but i had no idea you could cross process it in e6 at box speed!! that's amazing!!!
Nothing's better than waking up watching Attic Darkroom video in the morning with breakfast baby!
If you develop it in E6 for projection use a light BW Yellow contrast filter to de-purple the image
They actually recommend using an unexposed developed portion of the film base on their website for this!
This is a super cool stock, I definitely need to try developing some in E-6. I wonder if you could shoot with a warming filter to correct for that blue cast when cross processing!
Analog Resurgence did a video on cross processing Santacolor/Aerocolor as E6. He recommended a warming filter, though one perhaps a tad cooler than 85B.
I could see it possibly helping. Might be worth trying, hmm...
@@atticdarkroom I once asked the guys at Kamerastore and they did mention something about a filter when crosprosessing as E6, i just cant remember what filter.
That's a film that can withstand quite a lot torture. I like the muted colours and low contrast.
the paper boxes are a short term storage solution. the film will absorb water out of the air, deterioraring the emulsion more rapidly.
thats why all film storage containers are water tight. the easiest way to make film containers water tight and cheap is injection moulded plastic. its also VERY recycleable because the HDPE they are made from are very clean and uncontaminated.
Clear base film is so interesting and versatile
Nice! :)
That e6 cross processed roll looks good, and with some color correction you can get nice slides out of the film! :)
i go to uo and the thought of you roaming around my campus making these insane experiments terrifies me
great video and amazing pics. this film rocks
3:42 what a photo!
i love your photos.
and great video as always
god bless
Thanks for Reviewing it Personally i Pushed it to 800 ISO and it came out wonderful! As for the Reason they dont do it in 120 aswell, is that they just cant find anyone that can make the Backing paper for it.
I am surprised by your BW+C41 dev results. I know that some BW chemicals are better suited than other for this operation. For instance DDX and HC110-B provides good results whereas Rodinal and D-76 are not so good. I always process my positive this way and never had an issue. I have some santacolor 100 maybe I should give a try. Are you planning to test the Washi X? I guess it is in the same aera of work. Maskless film that can be process either as a positive or a negative.
That's good to know. I developed this with Rodinal, but I also have some DD-X laying around. Do you have any suggestions for times and dilutions? I'm sure some of the issues I had was not knowing and essentially guessing. Like I mentioned in the video, this process is still new to me and a work in progress, I'll definitely keep trying though.
@@atticdarkroom with DD-X , as a first step for a positive , I use 1+4 dilution/ 12 min / 38°C. So hotter and longer than normal BW . This create a good mask before re-exposition to light.
@@atticdarkroom Rodinal can activate the color dyes like a very weak color developer. When I try this, I use high concentration new formula HC110 - about 10:1 and develop hot and long.
Those E6 results really remind me of much older slide films, Particularly in the shadows.
thanks
Love your videos.
Popho is selling the same thing as Luminar 100. It should be easier to scan without the orange mask, Perhaps your scanner is set to compensate for that somehow? I've also experimented with E6 processing. You always want to push a stop to increase contrast. It appears that underexposing by a stop and a half and pushing one stop gives the best result, but I still need to verify that. The colors I've gotten are quite good without extreme saturation of a Provia or Ektachrome. It reminds me of what I recall of Astia.
I wonder if a warming filter would correct for the blue cast when processed in E6
It can, retro resurgence did
I shot a roll of Flic's Aerocolor brandname. It was technically a very good film, but no quality jumped out as enticing to use again. The clear-ish base probably makes it easier to print on black and white, but that's about all I can think of.
Did you tried to stand develop C41? I'm doing this method to blackandwhite, every time it works great.
Wanted also to try shoot and develop color film but i really REALLY dont wanna deal with keeping right temp and time.
Seen few tutorials online, but they not so clear to me.
Not with this film, but I've done it a few times. It seems to work, but I don't know if there are any color shifts or other weirdness.
@@atticdarkroom To the point of weird development…have you ever developed a film with a developer for paper? Would love to see that in a video
Honestly I think the B&W results look better than the C41 slides.
yuhuuuu
Bro was like a 10 minute walk away for a minute there 😅
What’s the black bit on the edge of all your shots?
Scanner mask. Trying to get as much of the frame as possible.
Nice! Definitely a lot of the results you are seeing here a result of the scanner more than it is of the film - the normal frames you shot first were definitely very muted and low contrast compared to what you get, even from a lab who are used to 'normal' C41 film or camera scanning it.
Whit that clear base, i wonder how red scaling would look like...
I can’t really tell if Portland is a trashy place or if the subjects and locations you choose to shoot happen to be disproportionally trashy.
(In a good way, I should say. I almost have a sick admiration for the angsty looseness I see in these photos.)
A little bit of both. I also have an affinity for photographing garbage.
A 5 pack is almost 100 usd, holy moly
Maybe let’s try UV or IR film with filters? Should be cool to trichrome NIR for example, UV is also cool depending on the range, like the skin changes absorption depending on the range. Also some astrophoto could be interesting. And please add new music, it’s like watching the same video over and over😅
Your photos remind me of Christos Dikaiakos, you should check him out. Anyways great video!
can you redscale this film please (or any Aerocolor IV film)? since it has a clear base I would like to see how it looks with the red layer first and the blue layer last
You should try the shooting the film with an 85 filter then process E6.
OOOOO
I've heard about this film, but never seen it for sale.
also- is there going to be an ORWO nc 500/400 video...?
I got mine from the crowdfunding campaign. I guess not many places carry it, luckily there are other folks respooling Aerocolor IV.
And I'd like to try the new ORWO stuff, I just have to find some.
The b/w & c41 looks a bit like K64.
Tried to get this film in 5 inch rolls for sheets, sadly MOQ is too high for me as someone doing this by myself. Maybe one day…
Is that Portland I see?
Wait, trichrome developed c-41? Classic ADR.
What's your scanning setup?
idk how to word it but the 5:10 ones have the color of poverty