GoPro Hacks For More Cinematic Videos
Вставка
- Опубліковано 4 лют 2024
- This video is for videographers and those who want to create more cinematic GoPro videos utilising Motion Blur. This series of hacks shows you
a) How to configure exposure information on your GoPro (ISO Shutter & Histogram)
b) How to disable gyro-compensated exposure
c) How to lock minimum shutter speed.
Instructions
==========
The Hack is achieved by installing the GoPro Labs Firmware on your GoPro. These hacks will work with GoPro 11 and 12.
Step 1: Download and install GoPro Labs Firmware on your GoPro
gopro.github.io/labs/
Step 2: Click the links below to display the QR codes and point your camera at them to execute the commands
Configure GoPro to display Exposure Information
a) Shutter Speed and ISO
gopro.github.io/labs/control/...
b) Display Histogram
gopro.github.io/labs/control/...
c) Disable Gyro-Compensated Exposure
gopro.github.io/labs/control/...
d) Set Minimum Shutter Speed to 1/125sec
gopro.github.io/labs/control/...
3) Set Max ISO to 800 in the Protune settings.
That is it. You should be good to go now.
If you need to reset all the Stored Labs QR code commands you can use this link:
gopro.github.io/labs/control/... - Навчання та стиль
Literally like sitting in a classroom, and the presentation of the graphics to help understand what is happening. Awesome!!!
Glad you enjoyed it. Now go and do your homework :-)
Hey Brent! Appreciate the shout out :) You did an excellent job explaining this material and I enjoy the collaboration. Hope the viewers find this helpfull and can use some of these great GP Labs tricks to make their videos better. Cheers, Tom Lukaszewicz (L is definitely easier ;) )
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe your qr code is setting the MAX shutter speed to 125? I think you want to use EXPN and not EXPX.
edit: your code is correct, the labels in the gopro qr code app are reversed. Submitted a bug report.
One of the best videos explaining the problem -GoPro should cite this in their Labs page. There is also a command (HIST=1) to enable Histogram overlay, which should also help. Reducing noise reduction (NR01=50) should also be better if your aim is cinematic (better to do NR in post, I use DaVinci Resolve). If you do a follow-up working with LOGB settings and LUTs, that will set the standard. Thumbs up to the GoPro Labs team - can't wait for this to be baked into the UI at some point.
Thx Colin 👍
I think if you niche down to cinematic motorcycle adventures, your channel will really grow. Loved your Iceland video!
One of the best dives in to Labs settings and exposure controls I seen. Very nice. From the GoPro Labs team.
Thanks for your comment. You have no idea how happy the display of exp info makes me. Keep up the great work.
love you brotha! Keep growing, GODSPEED ⚡
Good description of how to obtain more usual material from these little cameras. I have been doing this for some time and the material intercuts with the larger cameras usednfar better.
Absolutely helpful video 👍🏻 thank so much!
The Animations you used are super helpful. You really know how to teach a certain topic in a very comprehensive way. Thanks for your videos and all the best from Stuttgart, Germany 🇩🇪✌🏻
Thanks SnowDestructions....... I enjoy trying to work out the best way of communicating topics that can be complex. I am also enjoying learning AfterEffects, so it was a fun little project for me. (Killed 2 birds with one stone). :-)
Brilliant! Thank you.
Thank you!
Wow. I just found your channel watching the Iceland trip and kept wondering how you were getting those shots. And then this. Thank you!
Would love to see some samples. Also, what were you using to shoot the Iceland video?
Awesome video. I had been thinking of doing something like this down the track about labs firmware but yours is better than mine of course! Good insight on the way stabilising works which probably explains my weird inconsistent results. I’m hoping GoPro make an inbuilt nd filter down the track and an auto setting on in built nd filter would be next level.
OK Brent I have been following you for a while now. I appreciate what you do and learnt a lot from you. Could you please ride somewhere and I get the hype and pumped. :) Because of you I am planing for Iceland but first Tusheti.
Great video, mate. The Gyro-Compensated Exposure is really interesting. I must admit I went back to the default firmware on my Hero12 but the exposure info is worth putting it back in for.
Agreed. Just to have an understanding of what the camera is doing is pretty important (in my opinion). I hope they build these into the settings as a standard option.
I’m currently working on a video of similar topic myself Brent, really glad to see your take on this. The gyro compensated exposure was new to me, but there is another setting i could recommend for you as well. DAMP… this will dampen the auto exposure and look much nicer when you go in and out of bright/shade areas. I have mine set to 18
Hey there... .DAMP eh? Let me go back and check that out.... I assume it is in the GoPro labs exposure adjustments. Great call.
I'm form india Thank you revolved my big problems one's again thank you so much-loved ❤❤
for a long time I used the labs software on the gp7. Battery use on the gp7 was atrocious with it installed so that was the reason I was not using it on the gp12 ( gp7 got stolen ) might check it out again though. ESP that locking off of gyro-compensation. Good video again! 👍
Thx. Let me know if you have any adverse experiences.
An excellent tutorial, many thanks for that. In your description it says the hacks will work with the GoPro 11 & 12 however when you click on your first link it also says it will work with Hero 10 Black, GoPro MAX, Hero 9 Black, Hero 8 Black, Hero 7 Black & the Hero 5 Session. I'll try it on a 9 and see what happens. 👍
Yes, it was more the gyro compensated exposure... I think that is only on 11 and 12. But the other hacks should be more backward compatible.
Hi great vid very informative thanks ,can these settings go on one after the other or do i need to put them all on at the sametime in labs ?
One after the other eorks
another great vid......buuuuut - i gotta say - I hope all is well...Have been waiting on your promised Murray River ride....and have heard nothing....I'm hoping it's just a case of mucho time spent editing.....(I'm in euroland atm and need my aus outback country fix!!) :)
Ha! Actually the Tour De Vic video is ready... I've actually just delayed the release for 1 week. Next week all the guys and their partners are coming over to my place for the "World Premiere" (haha)...... and then I'll upload it on UA-cam next Sunday (12th May).
@@brentbat 😃 looking forward to the World Premiere, for sure...Interesting insight that there is a private launch too.😄 👍 Have a good weekend!
you are probably the only one who researches in depth this GoPro hacks and posts the definitions - so big thanks.
few questions:
1. The exposure sometimes changes drastically while riding (full sunlight to forest and cloudy). -Do you stop to adjust the ND filter at every change?
2. From what I remember, you recommended shooting at 30 FPS for riding. This means that in this settings, the "180 degree rule", is not achieved to create a natural look.- is this important / noticeable?
Hey Dror
No, I don't change ND's while riding unless things change significantly and will stay changed. So if it's bright sun, I'll put an ND 16 on, if it's overcast I'll throw an ND 32 on.... I'll usually only change this if the sun is setting and its getting darker etc.
Regarding the 180 rule, Yes, early on my testing I determined that this doesn't seem to apply for motorcycle footage, There is so much movement that you need to use a higher shutter speed to capture just the right amount of blur. I think the 180 degree shutter rule makes sense for scenes without a lot of high speed action etc.
@@brentbat "So if it's bright sun, I'll put an ND 16 on, if it's overcast I'll throw an ND 32 on" - isn't it the other way around?
@@ColindeSilva Hey Colin, you are absolutely correct.... in my response to Dror I got it the wrong way around. To be honest, I rarely use an ND 32. I usually just flip between an ND 8 or ND 16 when I'm riding. I'd rather err on the lower side with the ND filters than over correct.
Great video Brett. Does the gopro have a fixed aperture as this is only 2/3 of the exposure triangle.
Yes it does GoPro lens is fixed at f2.8
You should also make short videos your videos is very very very nice
thanks, Very well explained! Do you notice a change filming with gopro 12 vs 11?
cheers
I haven't shot with a GoPro 12, so I can't really comment.
Great video! Do you leave hypersmooth on with these settings? I've had issues with hypersmooth when shooting at a shutter speed of 1/125
Yes. I use hyper smooth on boost.
Hi Brent, interesting even though I have never owned a GoPro. Have you ever tried the alternatives out there? Just curious.
Hi there, funny you should say that. I have just bought a DJI Action 4, but I haven't used it yet, I will give it a try on my next ride.
Great Info thanks !
Try to add some Extra GoPro Labs:
WIDE Gamut Color Profile: ON : !MWIDE=1
Log Base: 400 : !MLOGB=400
Frame rate 24.00p = !M24HZ=1
Noise Reduction off : !MNR01=1
Recording Bitrate 190Mbps : !MBITR=190
Histogram Position and Size: Bottom Left : !MHSTP=1,90,42
thats great news!!
those installations will change the camera settings permanent ?
isnt reversable ? Or i can use them some times and some times not, if i like?
You have two options. You can scan a QR code command and have it only apply for that session (which the GoPro is powered up)..... which is not overly useful.
OR
You can scan the commands that I have linked below and they will stay on the GoPro. But at any time, you can scan that reset code that I have linked to, and it will disable all of the commands you have sent to it.
Of course, if at any point you don't like the GoPro Labs firmware, then you can just reinstall the standard GoPro firmware. So think of these hacks as only permanent if you want them to be.
well , i just install the disable of Gyro effect and the lock of shutter at 1/125 after the installation of Firmware.
I will test it soon.. but i think that 800 iso is too much.
(I made the hall process at my room just minutes before ,its night here now !
and under my soft light that i have in my room, the 800 iso of GoPro 12 that i have, seems to have lot of noise at the display of Gopro.)@@brentbat
Hey @@kostasrestas
How high to set ISO is definitely a personal thing. I have a noise reduction plugin that I use that cleans the image up a bit.... but that is why I made the comment about ISO400 being fine (and labelling it green)... ISO800 is definitely on the borderline in my book... but if you prefer limiting it to ISO400 in Protune settings... then "You do you" :-)
at any case ,i have to thank you for the infos that you share ! i wait your next video to see your results! i upload also soon a new video with my new arrow exhaust for my T7 !cheers from Greece!@@brentbat
can i still use this setting for night laps sir? or how to remove locked shutter speed and ISO ? im very beginer, just buy this gopro 11 last 3 monts ago. thanks in advance
No. These settings are for day shots. You will need longer shutter speeds for night work.
You should also make short videos
I'm using gopro hero 7 but there is no shutter speed called 1/125, which shutter speed i will choose? 1/120 or 1/240?
1/120
I think you know this about me already, Brent but I don’t want to fiddle with filters. I just want to ride from 4am (dark) to midnight and keep it all on auto and my viewers know my videos won’t look as good as yours. Thinking about filters when on a multi-day trip is more than I want to deal with personally. I also have a Canon R5 and only shoot in auto. So maybe I’m just lazy.
Hey Adam, I hear you and I know that there are different types of creators out there, some don't want any video hassle to get in the way of the ride etc. I will usually select a suitable filter at the start of the day and just leave that on for the entire day... only changing it if conditions change significantly (like the sun is setting and I'm losing light, then I'll remove the ND).
I still really appreciate the craft here and the value you're adding to people using GoPros for riding. I appreciate it. @@brentbat
It works with GoPro 9?
Hi! But still, how you get such a static, non-shaky picture (talking about Island video) and such "correct" composition? I talk about like 1/3 rule, active corners and another compositions rules. Looks like never move your head =) and always are on right hight over horisont. That is more interesting things.
Take a look at some of my other tutorials on the GoPro settings.... Usually I'm using my "Cinematic Profile" which is a pretty tight lens, plus stabilization on "boost". I stand on the pegs when I'm shooting (so the bike is absorbing a lot of the bumps), plus I can just see the top of my gopro screen when I'm shooting, so that helps with framing..... also, because I shoot in 16X9 but edit in 2X1 format, I have excess image at the top and bottom, so I can fine tune composition to some extent in post production.
@@brentbat I guess your videos are the best clips from mototravel type. Spectacular!
Well ,is funny....Just yesterday i install the filmware and the qr codes and it was all ok .
Today GoPro send me a notification for the new update for Hero 12 and i made it.
All process and update from labs filmware with qr codes is gone !!!
I thing that i have to do it again if i want it !!
Yes, I'm guessing that if you reinstall the normal GoPro update, it will overwrite the Labs version.
Hello Brent, thanks for all of this hacks. I'm a passionate of photo/videography and I my personal opinion: ICELAND VIDEO ... UNBEATABLE. I have a question for you: The POV camera on iceland is all the time, gopro, or you have other camera for record de POV videos?? Thanks in advance.
GoPro 11 for pov.
iso and shutter speed did not display on hero 9 black
would it still be activated?
Can you get something to set this automatically ,I'm not very good with stuff like this mate
Not that I am aware of... the QR codes do make it pretty straight forward... I'd say... don't be inimidated, and give it a try.... follow my instructions below to see if you can install the GoPro Labs firmware on your gopro (they give really good instructions). If you get that done, then the rest of the instrucdtions are a breeze, you just click the link, and point your camera at the QR code to execute the command. I've got it all laid out for you in order below.
Cliff, just do it, it's a really easy process. 👍
Hi Dear, I hope you are doing well. I am a UA-cam video SEO expert. I was analyzing your UA-cam channel. I am really impressed by your videos, but your UA-cam channel has some issues. You have made many videos, but your UA-cam channel is not getting as many views and subscribers as expected. Because you have no complete SEO for any videos, no channel tags, and no video tags, if you SEO your videos, your subscribers and views will increase, and your channel will grow. Your video quality is very good, but the channel is not increasing due to not doing video SEO. By doing video SEO, the channel grows faster. I can help you if you want.
Bro just use Manual Exposure ffs. What is this? Anyone truly wanting to shoot "cInEmAtIc" does shoot all manual anyways.
If you are shooting in a controlled environment, then I agree that manual shutter speed makes sense, but when you are adventure riding and going through different environments, shadows, sunlight etc. then manual exposure makes no sense at all.
@@brentbat good point, but I rather work with keyframes in post.
@@siemore Keyframes can do a lot, but they can't recover blown out exposure.
For me, nailing exposure is more important than motion blur which is why I prioritise it when I ride. If I was producing a cinematic video, then I would totally agree with you and I would shoot everything manual because I could just nail the shot and move on... but if I tried that on one of my rides, my riding buddies would dump me in a flash :-)
@@brentbat really good points. I'm mainly into FPV and having good Auto exposure would be a great thing to have. I usually expose more or less for the shadows and let the sky get somewhat overexposed, so the only thing that could go wrong is the shadows getting really dark and noisy. This never really seemed to happen heavily, but yes, my scenes are more or less consistent, even if I fly around much.
When doing indoor and outdoor in one flight that would be a whole different discussion and your tips would be super valid!
You should also make short videos