Hello... Good day... I always notice about replies from channel owner to the subscribers quiries in the comment section.... If these are available then it is a good channel (This is what I assume)... The best thing about you is that you have replied almost all of the comments..... Regards....
Araldite works wonders! I have stuck LED modules as DRLs to my car's front grille and it's still holding since 2012! It's 2024 and still hasn't fallen off or come loose 😂...
IM AT 2:33 in your video and Im getting excited about your project. how neat! I am working on a 1979 honda xl250s and I am changing it from 6 to 12 volts and changing the headlight coil to DC closed circuit with no chassis ground. and leaving the ignition coil as is (AC chassis ground CDI that is shared with the DC tail,turn signal, horn stator coil that charges 12V battery) I am running 12 volt LED headlight through the headlight AC stator coil that is being disconnected from chassis ground and made into a 12V regulated/rectified circuit and I got a big capacitor to stabilize the current flicker, I have to disconnect the high beam indicator light from chassis ground, and the headlight chassis ground is disconnected as well and ran in series together to the headlight stator coil so that it is isolated from the DC charging coil and the AC ignition shared chassis coil. I hope it works good. I built a grizzly g0704 cnc milling machine and a g0602 cnc lathe both use centroid acorn cnc controllers and have 1.8kw servo spindle motors with 10,000 pulse per rev encoders for rigit tapping on mill and rigid tapping on lathe and designed an 8 tool auto tool changer turret for the lathe. so anyway, I want to design a new stator for the 19-81 honda xl250 and xl500 that uses up all the space inside to maximize the output for the conversion to LED lights to make it safer for people to ride at night. I want to program the lathe to wind the field windings perfectly by measuring the thickness of the winding being used and writing a program to move distance per revolution to wind perfect coils fast. I can use the cnc mill to cut out the plates are those called armature plates? not sure but I use fusion 360 to do all my CAD so I could design it really well before even making one part. well I just wanted to share that with you since your winding your own coil, and see what you have to say about that. thanks have a great day, now back to watching your video.
I bought a new stator (used off ebay), but I actually wanted to rewind the broken one. The old stator is still in the wardrobe, and armed with this info I'm enthusiastic to get winding. Thanks.
yup a Delta, I think u r a motor winder, So u know the work is done in the COILS each coil being good for so many ampere-turns. a coil can be bad but not grounded to frame, just by the enamel getting burned off and touching each other, then u get less voltage built up in each coil and say the wire is good for 22 amps for a single phase stator like on a Harley Sporty, then less volts X the available amps gives less watts of power. I did a stator a while ago, it was a Y . wind 1 bobbin, skip 2 bobbins. so if u have 15 poles or bobbins each phase has 5 poles. I marked the phase of each bobbin start an finish, wired the 3 starts together. this is why on motors u have A and AA, A being the start of the winding AA being the end, and F and FF.Great video. I went to a motor rewind shop to buy magnet wire.
Hi bro! I have a 2018 Yamaha FZ 25 and I want to increase the current to charge a 9Ah battery that I just upgraded from a stock 7Ah battery. I have LED aux lights, a custom 150W music system and a fast 5V 3A USB charger to charge my phone on the go. I'm not able to use 2 items simultaneously because the voltage drops below 13 Volts if I do so. I am sure I need to use a bit thicker gauge wire than stock. After watching this video I am clear about how to do a 3 phase winding... My original stator coil is a single phase and my regulator is a 4 pin one. After I convert my Stator to 3 phase I might have to use a regulator from a KTM Duke 390 as it's a 3 phase regulator. If I still have some doubts, how can I connect with you? I'd really appreciate if you can let me know...
Hi, yes you can likely rewind your stator to a 3 phase, if it has # of poles / 3 ideally. The magnets on the flywheel may or may not be ideal for this configuration though. Good luck!
@@OctaneElectrons I did the rewinding job last week. The original stator had 19 SWG wire on it in a single phase configuration. I used a 17.5 SWG enamel copper wire and did 25 turns on each pole as I could fit 25 turns comfortably on all the 12 poles in the same configuration... Then I put 3 layers of insulating varnish and let it dry in open for 3 days. Now I have installed it in my bike few days ago and I noticed an immediate difference in charging. The battery is now getting charged much faster than before. Now I intend to use 2 x 30W Osram LED bulbs for my AUX lights... I will update once I do that! Thanks !
Very informative video Q&E Evin. . I am wondering what the insulation wire that you are using. Does the insulation degrade with the oven curing process of the epoxy ?? How about the increased wire size, do you get more amps charging from the GXR stator ??? Nice job fella. Look forward to more great videos from you SIr. Good day and Peace too. vf
Thanks alot, appreciate it. I used good quality magnet wire I purchase from a distributor on ebay, 200C rated. The insulation does not degrade in the over curing, it is fairly low heat. Yes with slightly increased wire gauge you can get slightly more amperage, and a Delta connection will help as well. Thanks!
I have my stator fail. Only one phase. What can cause such a failure? Do you think it can be fixed if I soak it into resin or something? I have measured between phases and they all are connected to each other and no one is grounded to earth. I just don't get enough voltage in one phase. Any input apreeciated.
Bad insulation or it rubbed through and touched the metal core. No real way to fix it without rewinding the stator. Or just replace if it is a common fitment. www.rmstator.com
Thanks for an informative video! I am attempting to rewind a pulser and exciter coil for a JS550 jet ski. Do you know if winding direction matters in this situation?
Excellent video! i have a question thought. If the final resin is so powerful that makes the coils lasts forever. Why the stock resin allows the coils get damaged on the first place? thanks!!
The resin really is responsible for keeping the windings from vibrating at all. This vibration can cause them to rub and wear through the insulation, leading to a break or short. Eventually the resin can fail over many heat cycles and allow the wires to begin to move.
Need a little help rewinding a stator out of a Force outboard. 3 phase stator, one of the phases uses thicker wire, the other 2 phases use 1 mm wire, hair thin. It is one of these two thin wired phases that needs to be rewinded, as it burned between 2 of the coils. I removed the wire and repaired the burned insulation, bought 50 meters of 1 mm wire, but it came in 5 rolls of 10 meters, not enough to wind it uninterrupted. I wander if each of the 5 coils I must rewind can be done with a roll of wire, then conect it to the next coil by soldering in between coils. Another issue is that I could not do the loop count, as the thin wire came out in chunks together with the epoxy. I have the other thin wired phase intact, with 735 ohms of resistance across the the leads. Thanks for your input
The super thin wire is a source coil for ignition power, not a battery charging coil. Sounds like it might not be a 3 phase stator. It likely has multiple coils for charging/ignition. It would not follow these steps in the video.
@@OctaneElectrons Yes, 2 five posts coils feed the 2 ignitions, one for each cylinder. I rewounded one of the coils which had 2 wire leads at the ends of the windings. It looked good but my meter shows an open ciruit, reading 1015 at the 20K scale only. The other coil shows 750 Ohms across the windings. I'm positive the new copper wire that coils around the 5 posts is not cut or damaged, so I'm suspecting the union between the copper winding wire and the lead terminals. I coiled a few turns of the winding wire to the end of each of the lead wires, then soldered them. I wander what went wrong
I'm trying to rewire my wind turbine stator and this video has been the most informative of all I've seen because you explain the wiring sequence however you didn't illustrate that for us only showing the end result which doesn't illustrate the end to end winding sequence. Ifg all the ends were put together wouldn't that leave you with two wire instead of three?
Check out the video at this time: ua-cam.com/video/h_FTv-ZCZ4o/v-deo.html The drawings illustrate how the coils are connected together. Each coil is labeled with a letter (A, B, C), and the start and end of each coil is labeled with a number (1 = start, 2 = end). The 2 connection diagrams show you the 2 different ways the coils can be connected. A Wye connection has the start of all 3 coils connected together (A1, B1, C1), and the end of each coil is attached to the exiting wiring harness (A2, B2, C2). This configuration will generally produce more voltage but less current for a given RPM. A Delta connection has the end of each coil connected to the start of the next coil (A2 to C1, C2 to B1, B2 to A1). The three wiring harness wires that exit the stator are connected to each of those points where the coils are joined. This configuration will generally produce more current but less voltage for a given RPM.
@@OctaneElectrons Suppose I'm going to use it as an alternator. Is it okay if I connect the (A2, B2, C2) ends and get output from (A1, B1, C1) when making a star connection? So it's the opposite of what it should be.
A few pointers...... Thoroughly degrease first, ultrasonic bath recommended. 1) Repairing flaked off insulator, JB Weld does a good job. 2) *Must* use high temperature enamelled wire which has to be scraped for soldering. 3) After winding the assemblage should be vacuum impregnated with varnish specifically for the purpose, then baked. You can make a vacuum chamber with the input of a compressor. Sometimes you can get away with laying slow-set, high temp epoxy on the windings as you go but it's messy. 4) The wire should be drawn from a free-rotating bobbin to avoid a twist with every turn. 5) These winds are relatively easy so by all means go for it yourself. If your first attempt doesn't work out try again. But hand winding wave-wound (as car type or BMW, Moto Guzzi etc) is *extraordinarily* difficult. It can be done but not recommended unless you have a lot of time and a lathe to make up fancy formers and extreme ability / cussedness / patience / inventiveness / etc.
@@claas90017 Hi. Well I do rebuild rotors occasionally, mags too, but only for cheapskate friends ;-) Some of the dedicated rewind shops are very good, if you look up the ads. But try yourself by all means, nothing to lose except a few quid on high temp enamelled wire. My first rewind was a failure, so was the second, one gets better.
Thanks, I’m in the states and just got a quote of $400. I honestly don’t care to do it myself, I have an oddball cannondale 440 atv/motorcycle from 2002. Stators are no longer available, only used with hit and miss results. Thanks again
Hi, I've got a 3 phase stator from a KTM 690 and when I removed it for visual inspection I noticed that a little corner of the dieletric green coating came slightly off in 3 of the core ''branches'... Do you think is that a problem? Is there a short circuit if for example the green coating comes off and the copper wire touches the ''branches/arms'' of the core? thanks a lot PS: dont the wires melt when you cure it in the oven? :O
So I have an eBay stator in my gsxr and it doesn’t charge at idle only high rpm pretty sure it’s wound to “ wye” can I simply just grab the three starts separate them and connect them in series or do I have to re wind the entire stator?
Does the winding direction makes any difference, as long as all are in the same direction and properly connected? I think I winded mine in the opposed direction of oem. Best regards.
When you bake the epoxy in the oven, will the heat affect the wires you've soldered onto the copper winding at all? Could these wires be soldered after applying the epoxy? Thanks for taking the time to make this video btw. You explained and showed it all clearly. I was trying to get my head round an Instructable, but this is much better.
The heat in the oven should not be hot enough to affect the solder. However you can certainly solder the wires after the epoxy step, no problem. Glad it helped!
Hi, thanks for the video I really enjoyed watching. My question is when you rewind the stator for more amperage output you would use a thicker wire. How does this effect stator output voltage ? As in producing more or less AC volts
When you increase wire gauge (thicker wire), you raise current and lower voltage from the coil. When you decrease wire gauge (thinner wire), you lower current and raise voltage for a given RPM. This can be offset by the 3 phase connection type. Delta connection (all 3 coils chained together in series) gives you more current at lower RPM but peaks earlier. Wye connection (all 3 coils connected together at one end, in parallel) gives you more current at higher RPM, but has poorer low RPM output. When you're charging a battery, voltage is not as much of a concern, it will generally always be high enough in this type of system. You are looking for current to produce power at across the RPM range (and especially at you most common riding RPM).
@@OctaneElectrons But isn't the output voltage determined by the number of turns, coils and connection? The induced volts/turn doesn't change with gauge.
So in this application: the individual coils are isolated from one another in the air gap been each bobbin correct? But when shifting between bobbins near their base it's acceptable for the different phases to touch each other and the frame? I only ask because I'm my mind I'd imagined all of these components isolated from one another. Maybe the coils are normal to touch between bobbins but they're meant to be isolated from the core by a small gap? Hard to tell. I'm merely a former mechanic, can't recall testing details, and my repair generally stops once the diagnosis suggests the stator assembly and one is reordered. In my mind the connections were simply that which was shown in the Delta diagram. 3 individual phases with some resistance in each phase, testing wire to wire, and if I'm remembering right isolation from the base and "ground" of the bike. My memory fails me but I think that was the average testing procedure. So if I'm thinking right, the coils are isolated from the frame? Crossing phases between bobbins at the base is normal but crossing higher up them is bad? I guess I'm just wondering what isolation is required and where is it not required. Just curious mostly. Probably have 200 pounds of old stators laying around. Never thought to question the voodoo inside beyond passing or failing the resistance or output tests in each unit's manual. I'm nearly certain that it probably varies with scheme but just wondered if you had any insight before I dive farther into an already long toilet break research study on a task I'll likely never perform. I enjoy learning new things. Thanks for the video
The wire is insulated, so all the coils are isolated anyways. But yes the 3 separate coils are isolated by bobbin as well. The wire can touch, it will not matter as it is insulated all along. They are all isolated from the frame as well. Thanks for watching!
@@OctaneElectrons Oh, it must be the epoxy coating, it must be filling in been stuff, my brain must've stopped. I'm so used to other wiring that when I see a wire without the insulation typical to wiring like in the pigtail then my my brain defaults to thinking it's exposed. It didn't occur to me that the epoxy may creep between the areas I was worried about there. Thanks for the reply!
Surely this stator will not work? powder coat is damaged, if windings contact centre frame, I would expect it to not work, it's insulated for a reason.., is it not?
The wire has its own insulation on it, so it doesn't matter if the green powder coat has come off. However, where it has come off, there are sharp edges exposed which could rub off the insulation on the wire, which is why he said he would put duct tape on the poles with damaged powder coat.
Correct, some of the powdercoat or paint is often damaged a bit when stripping off the old wire. I usually seal this section with some epoxy or tape before rewinding over it. The wire is insulated itself, so this never causes a problem. Use good judgement though, if the core is in very bad shape, do not use it for a rewind.
How easy is it to replce the wires going from the stator to the main loom, seems to me you remove the loom wires from the terminals they are soldered to on the stator and solder in new wires.
It would really not be worth repairing that stator, they are available. We have them in stock at RMSTATOR, get one here: rmstator.com/en_us/kit-generator-stator-stator-crankcase-cover-gasket-for-suzuki-lta-700-750-x-kingquad-2005-2018
@@OctaneElectrons , Vacuum Pressure Impregnation (VPI) "Vacuum Pressure Impregnation (V.P.I) is a process by which a fully wound electric apparatus stator or rotor is completely submerged in a Resin. Through a combination of dry and wet vacuum and pressure cycles, the resin is assimilated throughout the insulation system. Once thermally processed, the impregnated windings become a monolithic and homogenous structure. The resulting benefits are; Higher Dielectric Strength, Increased Mechanical Strength, Greater Thermal Inductivity, Superior Protection against the Ingress of Water, Chemical and Containments. A proper global vacuum pressure impregnated winding will have superior characteristics, which will support a longer and more maintenance free life span."
Thanks so much bro for the tutorial... Helps alot!!! I wanted to find out, if the resin powder coat (green) is cleaned off - thus revealing a bare metal stator, is it necessary to reinsulate it? If so what material can we use to do this? Thanks a mil! 🤙🏼
Yes you definitely need to reinsulate the stator core. The sharp edges of the core will cut the insulation on the winding wire and short it out. You could use a thin coating of quicksetting epoxy.
You really should if you want the stator to last. It prevents vibration in the windings, which can wear down the insulation and cause a short circuit failure.
Great video!. Super informative!. I recently got a CDI stator off of e-bay that looked to be brand new, but sadly when I Ohms tested it using the red and red/white wires it came up short. So I was wondering, have you ever had it where all you had to do was replace the wire leads, and the stator windings were just fine?. I was thinking of just carefully peeling back the red and red/white wires to the copper and de-soldering them, and running new wire to try and see if that would work?. Just curious if that is something you ever do, rather than rewinding the whole thing?. I have done a lot of soldering and electrical work before, but no stators yet, so I figured no harm in asking right?. Anyways thanks for the awesome video!. - Adam
Right on, glad you liked it. Yes it possible sometimes the windings are fine and you can replace just the wiring harness. Typically not though. Worth a shot sometimes.
You under stand this more than I do. I have a 1986 Honda cmx250 I can not find a new or used stator for all the wires at the cover are hard and have been tinkered with before I got the bike. Would you be willing to rewind mine. Of coarse paying you to rebuild it. Maybe I just need to resolder new wires from the stator? They are very hard and brittle and wire is exposed thru the wire jacket on all of the wires
Why do you epoxy seal. While it protects wires from cracking. This doesn’t help cooling especially with oil. Most stock oem stators dont have any epoxy. And last thousands of miles.
Many OEM stators use epoxy to prevent winding vibration which can lead to short or break in the wire. It has nothing to do with cooling. The oil bath can help maintain even temperature in the windings with or without epoxy coating.
@@timjohnson6864 ah… grind off the varnish/ epoxy… when I hear “insulation” with regards to wiring I think of the standard thermoplastic insulation covering the stranded wires.
@@OctaneElectrons i have done it on my motorbike.. now my motorbike can start and runs normal again.. thanks mate for this great diy repair guide 🤣👍👍👍👍👍👍
I'm not sure the rotor on an old Bullet would work well with a 3 phase wind. I believe all the old enfield stators are single phase. I don't think you would get good enough charging output with a 3 phase wind with only 2 poles per phase. I would stick with the original configuration.
@@OctaneElectrons Since when can you get a motor or alternator with an odd number of poles. I've never heard of such a thing in my 45 years of motor rewinding.
The size of the wire is mostly down to how much current it has to carry. The bigger the wire gauge you can fit, the cooler it will run. Wire enamels come in various colours regardless of size or temperature ratings.
Wire thickness will NOT affect the voltage. Only the number of turns on the tooth will affect the voltage - so keep the number of turns the same as the original winding. That is very important. Wire thickness will affect the efficiency of the alternator. Use as thick wire as possible, i.e. that will fit inside the slots with the number of turns required. An efficient winding = a cool running alternator. Thin wire = a hot running alternator.
@@christoskylar2601 Would you mind advising me on how to increase the output to the lighting circuit on my 87 honda xr250? The headlight is basically useless and I was hoping to switch to a bright led along with potential for a street legal kit (blinkers, brake and running light). Thanks in advance for any info you can provide!
@@bonzegrinder1 I'm going out on a limb here, but I'm pretty sure that you'll be safe just changing the headlight out for an LED light of similar or less wattage. LED headlights are very bright compared to incandescent lights of the same wattage. You may not even need to make changes to the alternator stator, provided that it is in good condition.
@@OctaneElectrons thank you!, I have completed it and it charges well when cold but it looks as if I have continuity with the body when hot!. Oh dear back to the drawing board🤣
Awesome video. I have a 17 KTM 350 XCF Which has a four wire stator. The factory output is 30w. I want to increase the output as I am making it street legal with the required lighting. Are there any resources you could steer me towards that will help me accomplish this? It differed from this video as it appears to have two circuits with four wires on the harness total. One is for the the battery and one for the ignition circuit. Also when rewinding for more power what are the limiting factors? I would imagine at a certain point the regulator/rectifier would need to be up sized to match. Alot of aftermarket direct fits for this bike come at 90w max roughly and say they direct swap with no other upgrades. I imagine this is the max wattage the stock regulator/ rectifier can handle. Any assistance or where to find published information is appreciated. Seems easy enough to do and worth saving 200 dollars. Thanks Pat
That stator looks like it is all one coil on the core. You could rewind it by increasing the wire gauge one size and wrapping as many turns on each pole as you can. Since it is a single phase stator (one coil instead of 3), make sure you alternate winding direction CW/CCW on each subsequent pole. It is not wound the same way (all one direction) as the 3 phase stator I show in the video. This coil goes to the 2 Yellow wires, and either wire can be connected to either end of the coil, it doesn't matter. The Red and Green wires are the pickup coil for ignition timing, leave that alone. Hope that helps!
I always used TemCo Industrial IR0001 coil impregnating resin. It looks like that is not available anymore, it used to be easy to find on ebay. I found some similar resin on Amazon, this stuff would work fine: www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-4228-55ML-Insulating-Varnish/dp/B008OA7DDK
@@OctaneElectrons That isn't an epoxy, it is a varnish. I want to rewind a rotor and really want an epoxy. Lots of vibration and high temps. Can you recommend a product?
@@DeanMay Proper coil impregnating varnish is designed for such a scenario. My workshop mainly uses a 180 C./355 F. rated varnish on nearly all our rewinds of motors, transformers and coils. The only times we don't is usually when a very fast turn-around is required in which case we use an electrical epoxy that we can 'cook' in ten minutes as opposed to an overnight bake for varnish.
That's how it goes sometimes. I don't have anything to do with Ricks, not sure what you're point is. Chinese made stators and regulators are excellent with proper quality control.
Hello...
Good day...
I always notice about replies from channel owner to the subscribers quiries in the comment section....
If these are available then it is a good channel (This is what I assume)...
The best thing about you is that you have replied almost all of the comments.....
Regards....
Yes I really like participating on my channel. I try to answer every comment! Thanks!
My dad rewound a gs750 suzuki alternator in 1985 when a new replacement cost 1 .months wages..sealed with areldite worked great
Yup, it's not that hard. Rewinds are often more reliable than the OEM's as well.
@@OctaneElectrons Would these epoxies work to replace damaged armature green insulation coating?
Araldite works wonders! I have stuck LED modules as DRLs to my car's front grille and it's still holding since 2012! It's 2024 and still hasn't fallen off or come loose 😂...
I have two older suzuki 's..and both have dead stators. .Thank You for this informative video!!!
Right on, glad to help!
IM AT 2:33 in your video and Im getting excited about your project. how neat! I am working on a 1979 honda xl250s and I am changing it from 6 to 12 volts and changing the headlight coil to DC closed circuit with no chassis ground. and leaving the ignition coil as is (AC chassis ground CDI that is shared with the DC tail,turn signal, horn stator coil that charges 12V battery) I am running 12 volt LED headlight through the headlight AC stator coil that is being disconnected from chassis ground and made into a 12V regulated/rectified circuit and I got a big capacitor to stabilize the current flicker, I have to disconnect the high beam indicator light from chassis ground, and the headlight chassis ground is disconnected as well and ran in series together to the headlight stator coil so that it is isolated from the DC charging coil and the AC ignition shared chassis coil. I hope it works good. I built a grizzly g0704 cnc milling machine and a g0602 cnc lathe both use centroid acorn cnc controllers and have 1.8kw servo spindle motors with 10,000 pulse per rev encoders for rigit tapping on mill and rigid tapping on lathe and designed an 8 tool auto tool changer turret for the lathe. so anyway, I want to design a new stator for the 19-81 honda xl250 and xl500 that uses up all the space inside to maximize the output for the conversion to LED lights to make it safer for people to ride at night. I want to program the lathe to wind the field windings perfectly by measuring the thickness of the winding being used and writing a program to move distance per revolution to wind perfect coils fast. I can use the cnc mill to cut out the plates are those called armature plates? not sure but I use fusion 360 to do all my CAD so I could design it really well before even making one part. well I just wanted to share that with you since your winding your own coil, and see what you have to say about that. thanks have a great day, now back to watching your video.
Thanks, glad you like it. Sounds like a great project!
UA-cam is awesome. Thanks for sharing this video. Very informative, and now I know how to wind a stator!!
Glad it was helpful!
I bought a new stator (used off ebay), but I actually wanted to rewind the broken one.
The old stator is still in the wardrobe, and armed with this info I'm enthusiastic
to get winding. Thanks.
You definitely can! It's not that hard. It may not be perfect, but it will probably work!
yup a Delta, I think u r a motor winder, So u know the work is done in the COILS each coil being
good for so many ampere-turns. a coil can be bad but not grounded to frame, just by the enamel
getting burned off and touching each other, then u get less voltage built up in each coil and say
the wire is good for 22 amps for a single phase stator like on a Harley Sporty, then less volts X the
available amps gives less watts of power. I did a stator a while ago, it was a Y . wind 1 bobbin, skip
2 bobbins. so if u have 15 poles or bobbins each phase has 5 poles. I marked the phase of each
bobbin start an finish, wired the 3 starts together. this is why on motors u have A and AA, A being
the start of the winding AA being the end, and F and FF.Great video. I went to a motor rewind shop
to buy magnet wire.
Not a motor winder, just done a ton of stators for prototyping use. Good comment, thanks!
You are a real craftsman !
Thanks!
I have an inverter generator that has a burned coil. I can’t find a replacement so I’m considering rewinding it. Thank you for this help
No problem!
That's a great video dude! Thanks for inspiring me. I don't need to rewind yet, but if I do, I know I'll use your video again. Keep up the good work!
Thanks man!
It’s cool to know how but there to cheap in cost to have to do this. Now say vape coils that’s a different story.
@@OctaneElectronsThat stator looked good before you dismantled it. Was there a problem with it?
awesome video, would like to try it one day maybe, good job
Go for it!
Excellent video. Thanks. Just wish you showed you wrapping the wiring around.
Hard to show while recording. I will record another video at some point with a tripod.
@@OctaneElectrons Yes please! Can you also show how you applied the epoxy as well? Otherwise great tutorial!
Hi bro! I have a 2018 Yamaha FZ 25 and I want to increase the current to charge a 9Ah battery that I just upgraded from a stock 7Ah battery. I have LED aux lights, a custom 150W music system and a fast 5V 3A USB charger to charge my phone on the go. I'm not able to use 2 items simultaneously because the voltage drops below 13 Volts if I do so. I am sure I need to use a bit thicker gauge wire than stock. After watching this video I am clear about how to do a 3 phase winding... My original stator coil is a single phase and my regulator is a 4 pin one. After I convert my Stator to 3 phase I might have to use a regulator from a KTM Duke 390 as it's a 3 phase regulator. If I still have some doubts, how can I connect with you?
I'd really appreciate if you can let me know...
Hi, yes you can likely rewind your stator to a 3 phase, if it has # of poles / 3 ideally. The magnets on the flywheel may or may not be ideal for this configuration though. Good luck!
@@OctaneElectrons I did the rewinding job last week. The original stator had 19 SWG wire on it in a single phase configuration. I used a 17.5 SWG enamel copper wire and did 25 turns on each pole as I could fit 25 turns comfortably on all the 12 poles in the same configuration... Then I put 3 layers of insulating varnish and let it dry in open for 3 days. Now I have installed it in my bike few days ago and I noticed an immediate difference in charging. The battery is now getting charged much faster than before. Now I intend to use 2 x 30W Osram LED bulbs for my AUX lights... I will update once I do that! Thanks !
Very informative video Q&E Evin. . I am wondering what the insulation wire that you are using. Does the insulation degrade with the oven curing process of the epoxy ?? How about the increased wire size, do you get more amps charging from the GXR stator ???
Nice job fella. Look forward to more great videos from you SIr. Good day and Peace too. vf
Thanks alot, appreciate it. I used good quality magnet wire I purchase from a distributor on ebay, 200C rated. The insulation does not degrade in the over curing, it is fairly low heat. Yes with slightly increased wire gauge you can get slightly more amperage, and a Delta connection will help as well. Thanks!
I like you logic fella. Great minds think alike Sir. @@OctaneElectrons
I have my stator fail. Only one phase. What can cause such a failure? Do you think it can be fixed if I soak it into resin or something?
I have measured between phases and they all are connected to each other and no one is grounded to earth. I just don't get enough voltage in one phase.
Any input apreeciated.
Bad insulation or it rubbed through and touched the metal core. No real way to fix it without rewinding the stator. Or just replace if it is a common fitment. www.rmstator.com
Thanks for an informative video!
I am attempting to rewind a pulser and exciter coil for a JS550 jet ski. Do you know if winding direction matters in this situation?
Great, glad it helped. Yes, typically pulser and exciter coil winding direction matters.
How do you determine the appropriate direction to wind the coils?
How much wire would you need to wind an average stator? { say 18 coils } And where do you get the wire and epoxy from?
1 pound would be plenty usually
Excellent video! i have a question thought.
If the final resin is so powerful that makes the coils lasts forever. Why the stock resin allows the coils get damaged on the first place?
thanks!!
The resin really is responsible for keeping the windings from vibrating at all. This vibration can cause them to rub and wear through the insulation, leading to a break or short. Eventually the resin can fail over many heat cycles and allow the wires to begin to move.
Need a little help rewinding a stator out of a Force outboard. 3 phase stator, one of the phases uses thicker wire, the other 2 phases use 1 mm wire, hair thin. It is one of these two thin wired phases that needs to be rewinded, as it burned between 2 of the coils. I removed the wire and repaired the burned insulation, bought 50 meters of 1 mm wire, but it came in 5 rolls of 10 meters, not enough to wind it uninterrupted. I wander if each of the 5 coils I must rewind can be done with a roll of wire, then conect it to the next coil by soldering in between coils. Another issue is that I could not do the loop count, as the thin wire came out in chunks together with the epoxy. I have the other thin wired phase intact, with 735 ohms of resistance across the the leads. Thanks for your input
The super thin wire is a source coil for ignition power, not a battery charging coil. Sounds like it might not be a 3 phase stator. It likely has multiple coils for charging/ignition. It would not follow these steps in the video.
@@OctaneElectrons Yes, 2 five posts coils feed the 2 ignitions, one for each cylinder. I rewounded one of the coils which had 2 wire leads at the ends of the windings. It looked good but my meter shows an open ciruit, reading 1015 at the 20K scale only. The other coil shows 750 Ohms across the windings. I'm positive the new copper wire that coils around the 5 posts is not cut or damaged, so I'm suspecting the union between the copper winding wire and the lead terminals. I coiled a few turns of the winding wire to the end of each of the lead wires, then soldered them. I wander what went wrong
Excellent video. Thanks
You are welcome!
I'm trying to rewire my wind turbine stator and this video has been the most informative of all I've seen because you explain the wiring sequence however you didn't illustrate that for us only showing the end result which doesn't illustrate the end to end winding sequence. Ifg all the ends were put together wouldn't that leave you with two wire instead of three?
Check out the video at this time:
ua-cam.com/video/h_FTv-ZCZ4o/v-deo.html
The drawings illustrate how the coils are connected together. Each coil is labeled with a letter (A, B, C), and the start and end of each coil is labeled with a number (1 = start, 2 = end).
The 2 connection diagrams show you the 2 different ways the coils can be connected.
A Wye connection has the start of all 3 coils connected together (A1, B1, C1), and the end of each coil is attached to the exiting wiring harness (A2, B2, C2). This configuration will generally produce more voltage but less current for a given RPM.
A Delta connection has the end of each coil connected to the start of the next coil (A2 to C1, C2 to B1, B2 to A1). The three wiring harness wires that exit the stator are connected to each of those points where the coils are joined. This configuration will generally produce more current but less voltage for a given RPM.
@@OctaneElectrons Suppose I'm going to use it as an alternator. Is it okay if I connect the (A2, B2, C2) ends and get output from (A1, B1, C1) when making a star connection? So it's the opposite of what it should be.
A few pointers......
Thoroughly degrease first, ultrasonic bath recommended.
1) Repairing flaked off insulator, JB Weld does a good job.
2) *Must* use high temperature enamelled wire which has to be scraped for soldering.
3) After winding the assemblage should be vacuum impregnated with varnish specifically for the purpose, then baked. You can make a vacuum chamber with the input of a compressor. Sometimes you can get away with laying slow-set, high temp epoxy on the windings as you go but it's messy.
4) The wire should be drawn from a free-rotating bobbin to avoid a twist with every turn.
5) These winds are relatively easy so by all means go for it yourself. If your first attempt doesn't work out try again. But hand winding wave-wound (as car type or BMW, Moto Guzzi etc) is *extraordinarily* difficult. It can be done but not recommended unless you have a lot of time and a lathe to make up fancy formers and extreme ability / cussedness / patience / inventiveness / etc.
Good points, thanks for commenting!
auldteuchter9012 Do you rebuild stators? I have some I’m looking to get rebuilt
@@claas90017 Hi. Well I do rebuild rotors occasionally, mags too, but only for cheapskate friends ;-) Some of the dedicated rewind shops are very good, if you look up the ads. But try yourself by all means, nothing to lose except a few quid on high temp enamelled wire. My first rewind was a failure, so was the second, one gets better.
Thanks, I’m in the states and just got a quote of $400. I honestly don’t care to do it myself, I have an oddball cannondale 440 atv/motorcycle from 2002. Stators are no longer available, only used with hit and miss results. Thanks again
If the wire is 1.15mm, can we put a 1,10 mm wire. Won't it be dangerous?
Yes it will work fine. Would be slightly less current but not likely noticeable.
@@OctaneElectrons oK,Master
Gracias amiguito saludos desde México execelente video
Gracias!
Hi, I've got a 3 phase stator from a KTM 690 and when I removed it for visual inspection I noticed that a little corner of the dieletric green coating came slightly off in 3 of the core ''branches'... Do you think is that a problem? Is there a short circuit if for example the green coating comes off and the copper wire touches the ''branches/arms'' of the core? thanks a lot
PS: dont the wires melt when you cure it in the oven? :O
You can use some JB weld or epoxy to smooth out the missing green insulation.
You left out the part where you connected each of the wires together from a b and c. I would have liked to have seen you do that
ua-cam.com/video/h_FTv-ZCZ4o/v-deo.html
So I have an eBay stator in my gsxr and it doesn’t charge at idle only high rpm pretty sure it’s wound to “ wye” can I simply just grab the three starts separate them and connect them in series or do I have to re wind the entire stator?
Yes converting to delta would give you more output at lower RPM for sure.
Does the winding direction makes any difference, as long as all are in the same direction and properly connected? I think I winded mine in the opposed direction of oem. Best regards.
No, the direction does not matter, but all poles need to be wound the same direction.
Very good information. Thanks a lot ❤️
Glad it was helpful!
When you bake the epoxy in the oven, will the heat affect the wires you've soldered onto the copper winding at all? Could these wires be soldered after applying the epoxy? Thanks for taking the time to make this video btw. You explained and showed it all clearly. I was trying to get my head round an Instructable, but this is much better.
The heat in the oven should not be hot enough to affect the solder. However you can certainly solder the wires after the epoxy step, no problem. Glad it helped!
@@OctaneElectrons as long as the lacquer is rated to take the heat, it should be good to go!
Hi, thanks for the video I really enjoyed watching. My question is when you rewind the stator for more amperage output you would use a thicker wire. How does this effect stator output voltage ? As in producing more or less AC volts
When you increase wire gauge (thicker wire), you raise current and lower voltage from the coil. When you decrease wire gauge (thinner wire), you lower current and raise voltage for a given RPM. This can be offset by the 3 phase connection type. Delta connection (all 3 coils chained together in series) gives you more current at lower RPM but peaks earlier. Wye connection (all 3 coils connected together at one end, in parallel) gives you more current at higher RPM, but has poorer low RPM output. When you're charging a battery, voltage is not as much of a concern, it will generally always be high enough in this type of system. You are looking for current to produce power at across the RPM range (and especially at you most common riding RPM).
@@OctaneElectrons But isn't the output voltage determined by the number of turns, coils and connection? The induced volts/turn doesn't change with gauge.
That's cool as hell. Thanks man!!
No problem, glad it helped!
So in this application: the individual coils are isolated from one another in the air gap been each bobbin correct? But when shifting between bobbins near their base it's acceptable for the different phases to touch each other and the frame? I only ask because I'm my mind I'd imagined all of these components isolated from one another. Maybe the coils are normal to touch between bobbins but they're meant to be isolated from the core by a small gap? Hard to tell. I'm merely a former mechanic, can't recall testing details, and my repair generally stops once the diagnosis suggests the stator assembly and one is reordered. In my mind the connections were simply that which was shown in the Delta diagram. 3 individual phases with some resistance in each phase, testing wire to wire, and if I'm remembering right isolation from the base and "ground" of the bike. My memory fails me but I think that was the average testing procedure. So if I'm thinking right, the coils are isolated from the frame? Crossing phases between bobbins at the base is normal but crossing higher up them is bad? I guess I'm just wondering what isolation is required and where is it not required. Just curious mostly. Probably have 200 pounds of old stators laying around. Never thought to question the voodoo inside beyond passing or failing the resistance or output tests in each unit's manual. I'm nearly certain that it probably varies with scheme but just wondered if you had any insight before I dive farther into an already long toilet break research study on a task I'll likely never perform. I enjoy learning new things. Thanks for the video
The wire is insulated, so all the coils are isolated anyways. But yes the 3 separate coils are isolated by bobbin as well. The wire can touch, it will not matter as it is insulated all along. They are all isolated from the frame as well. Thanks for watching!
@@OctaneElectrons Oh, it must be the epoxy coating, it must be filling in been stuff, my brain must've stopped. I'm so used to other wiring that when I see a wire without the insulation typical to wiring like in the pigtail then my my brain defaults to thinking it's exposed. It didn't occur to me that the epoxy may creep between the areas I was worried about there. Thanks for the reply!
"In between stuff".
I hate autocorrect
The Wire is coated with a Varnish, which insulates it.
It looks like bare Copper, but it's not.
Where did you get your copper wires from?
I usually buy spools on ebay, there are many suppliers.
If resin peels it can clog oil pick up screen on oil pump...
Good resin cured correctly won't peel!
Surely this stator will not work? powder coat is damaged, if windings contact centre frame, I would expect it to not work, it's insulated for a reason.., is it not?
The wire has its own insulation on it, so it doesn't matter if the green powder coat has come off. However, where it has come off, there are sharp edges exposed which could rub off the insulation on the wire, which is why he said he would put duct tape on the poles with damaged powder coat.
Correct, some of the powdercoat or paint is often damaged a bit when stripping off the old wire. I usually seal this section with some epoxy or tape before rewinding over it. The wire is insulated itself, so this never causes a problem. Use good judgement though, if the core is in very bad shape, do not use it for a rewind.
hi sir why my stator of yamaha r1 when i test in ohms its only 0 no resistance, it means busted or shorted???thank you for your responce
0 ohms could indicate your meter is on the wrong resistance range, or your stator is shorted. Definitely could be bad.
fantastic video and explanation.
How easy is it to replce the wires going from the stator to the main loom, seems to me you remove the loom wires from the terminals they are soldered to on the stator and solder in new wires.
Yes they are generally crimped and soldered together. They can be replaced.
Can I send you my stator ? How much do you charge to fix it it came of a 05 Suzuki king quad 700 I’m not actually sure what’s wrong with it
It would really not be worth repairing that stator, they are available. We have them in stock at RMSTATOR, get one here: rmstator.com/en_us/kit-generator-stator-stator-crankcase-cover-gasket-for-suzuki-lta-700-750-x-kingquad-2005-2018
Is the stator vacuumed after impregnation with resin?
I use resin and then put in the oven. No vacuum, though that would be even better.
@@OctaneElectrons , Vacuum Pressure Impregnation (VPI)
"Vacuum Pressure Impregnation (V.P.I) is a process by which a fully wound electric apparatus stator or rotor is completely submerged in a Resin. Through a combination of dry and wet vacuum and pressure cycles, the resin is assimilated throughout the insulation system. Once thermally processed, the impregnated windings become a monolithic and homogenous structure.
The resulting benefits are;
Higher Dielectric Strength,
Increased Mechanical Strength,
Greater Thermal Inductivity,
Superior Protection against the Ingress of Water, Chemical and Containments.
A proper global vacuum pressure impregnated winding will have superior characteristics, which will support a longer and more maintenance free life span."
@@OctaneElectrons search Vacuum Pressure Impregnation (V.P.I)
Thanks so much bro for the tutorial... Helps alot!!!
I wanted to find out, if the resin powder coat (green) is cleaned off - thus revealing a bare metal stator, is it necessary to reinsulate it?
If so what material can we use to do this?
Thanks a mil! 🤙🏼
Yes you definitely need to reinsulate the stator core. The sharp edges of the core will cut the insulation on the winding wire and short it out. You could use a thin coating of quicksetting epoxy.
@@OctaneElectrons thanks so much for the response. Will give it a go... #FingersCrossed 🤞🏼
@@kratos2600 Even a thin coating of epoxy is no substitute for slot insulation. You could probably get some pretty cheap from a local rewind shop.
My stator has no epoxy or coating of any kind on it. Is that normal?
Yes some do not have obvious epoxy. They use a baked on clear varnish to seal the windings.
How to wind 6core 3 phase coil for old royal enfield bullet just give me an idea bro
The same winding configuration would apply, but you would only use 2 poles per phase.
Do you have to use epoxy or is that an extra step to make it last? Because I don’t wanna do it... lol 😂
You really should if you want the stator to last. It prevents vibration in the windings, which can wear down the insulation and cause a short circuit failure.
Was there a name for the 3 white wires you used,?? Cheers great vid 👍
No, just the stator wiring harness. You can use good quality automotive type wire.
Eu vou escrever em português mesmo - essa é a melhor explicação que eu achei no UA-cam parabéns
That's great!
Great video!. Super informative!. I recently got a CDI stator off of e-bay that looked to be brand new, but sadly when I Ohms tested it using the red and red/white wires it came up short. So I was wondering, have you ever had it where all you had to do was replace the wire leads, and the stator windings were just fine?. I was thinking of just carefully peeling back the red and red/white wires to the copper and de-soldering them, and running new wire to try and see if that would work?. Just curious if that is something you ever do, rather than rewinding the whole thing?. I have done a lot of soldering and electrical work before, but no stators yet, so I figured no harm in asking right?. Anyways thanks for the awesome video!. - Adam
Right on, glad you liked it. Yes it possible sometimes the windings are fine and you can replace just the wiring harness. Typically not though. Worth a shot sometimes.
What is that called the green insulator in the core?
It is the factory powdercoat to seal the core and protect the windings.
thanks bro
No problem!
What will happen if you go anticlockwise when doing the coil?
Doesn't matter, as long as all coils are wound the same direction!
@@OctaneElectrons I have a bmw f800 gs, I got the stator rewind, but after 2 months it fried. Could you help me?
Do you know approximately how much of copper wire (in lenght) is needed for this job?
I did not measure. A fairly small spool will work fine.
what did u use for that green insulation layer? thanks
That is the factory powdercoat on the core.
You under stand this more than I do. I have a 1986 Honda cmx250 I can not find a new or used stator for all the wires at the cover are hard and have been tinkered with before I got the bike. Would you be willing to rewind mine.
Of coarse paying you to rebuild it.
Maybe I just need to resolder new wires from the stator? They are very hard and brittle and wire is exposed thru the wire jacket on all of the wires
Send me an email at octaneandelectrons@gmail.com, we can talk about it. Thanks.
Why do you epoxy seal. While it protects wires from cracking. This doesn’t help cooling especially with oil. Most stock oem stators dont have any epoxy. And last thousands of miles.
Many OEM stators use epoxy to prevent winding vibration which can lead to short or break in the wire. It has nothing to do with cooling. The oil bath can help maintain even temperature in the windings with or without epoxy coating.
Because it sits in the case with oil.
How much is it that you charge to rewind stator on snowmobile
I don't offer rewind services. Please contact www.rmstator.com for repair service. Thanks!
better to make a silicone shell that clamps the coils when done. easier disassemble.
Sure that would be a great help.
You lost me at grind off the insulation… I thought the copper wire was bare?
coated in varnish so it doesnt short
@@timjohnson6864 ah… grind off the varnish/ epoxy… when I hear “insulation” with regards to wiring I think of the standard thermoplastic insulation covering the stranded wires.
It is not bare, it has a clear insulation over it that must be removed to solder to.
How thick was that magnet wire? I mean the diameter of the wire.. I wanna try it myself too thanks
I don't recall now, but probably around 16-18AWG magnet wire.
Use the thickest wire that will fit with the required number of turns. When unwinding the old wire, count the number of turns on each tooth.
@@OctaneElectrons i have done it on my motorbike.. now my motorbike can start and runs normal again.. thanks mate for this great diy repair guide 🤣👍👍👍👍👍👍
Which meterial armature are made,the green part
It is steel laminations riveted together. The green is a powdercoating type material used to insulate the coil winding from the metal.
U dint show the important winding thing
OK
If the stator is wound with #16 gage and you go to #18 you reduce the current capacity.
Correct, and you increase the voltage.
Bro can you help me to wind 6core 3phase coil for old enfield bullet
I'm not sure the rotor on an old Bullet would work well with a 3 phase wind. I believe all the old enfield stators are single phase. I don't think you would get good enough charging output with a 3 phase wind with only 2 poles per phase. I would stick with the original configuration.
One of my colleague is getting a good output but he is not ready to share the winding details
why , only is 15 pole , 3 phase ? i don't know . i think it must 16 or 18 pole .
A 3 phase stator can commonly be 12, 15, 18 poles.
@@OctaneElectrons oh sorry i understand now .
@@OctaneElectrons Since when can you get a motor or alternator with an odd number of poles. I've never heard of such a thing in my 45 years of motor rewinding.
is it ok to use another type of wire? size or color.
Yes, you can use a different size. It will affect output a bit, but to get up and running anywhere around 16AWG will work.
The size of the wire is mostly down to how much current it has to carry. The bigger the wire gauge you can fit, the cooler it will run. Wire enamels come in various colours regardless of size or temperature ratings.
Great information, can you tell if thickness and rounds of wire will effect?
Yes will, increasing wire diameter will increase current and lower voltage.
Thanks , and what about number of turns?
Wire thickness will NOT affect the voltage. Only the number of turns on the tooth will affect the voltage - so keep the number of turns the same as the original winding. That is very important.
Wire thickness will affect the efficiency of the alternator. Use as thick wire as possible, i.e. that will fit inside the slots with the number of turns required. An efficient winding = a cool running alternator. Thin wire = a hot running alternator.
@@christoskylar2601 Would you mind advising me on how to increase the output to the lighting circuit on my 87 honda xr250? The headlight is basically useless and I was hoping to switch to a bright led along with potential for a street legal kit (blinkers, brake and running light). Thanks in advance for any info you can provide!
@@bonzegrinder1 I'm going out on a limb here, but I'm pretty sure that you'll be safe just changing the headlight out for an LED light of similar or less wattage. LED headlights are very bright compared to incandescent lights of the same wattage. You may not even need to make changes to the alternator stator, provided that it is in good condition.
Hi ... How do you get your pole wiring so tight? ... Really struggling with getting this right
Just pull as tight as possible by hand, and lay each turn down smoothly.
@@OctaneElectrons thank you!, I have completed it and it charges well when cold but it looks as if I have continuity with the body when hot!. Oh dear back to the drawing board🤣
Awesome video. I have a 17 KTM 350 XCF Which has a four wire stator. The factory output is 30w. I want to increase the output as I am making it street legal with the required lighting. Are there any resources you could steer me towards that will help me accomplish this? It differed from this video as it appears to have two circuits with four wires on the harness total. One is for the the battery and one for the ignition circuit. Also when rewinding for more power what are the limiting factors? I would imagine at a certain point the regulator/rectifier would need to be up sized to match. Alot of aftermarket direct fits for this bike come at 90w max roughly and say they direct swap with no other upgrades. I imagine this is the max wattage the stock regulator/ rectifier can handle. Any assistance or where to find published information is appreciated. Seems easy enough to do and worth saving 200 dollars.
Thanks
Pat
That stator looks like it is all one coil on the core. You could rewind it by increasing the wire gauge one size and wrapping as many turns on each pole as you can. Since it is a single phase stator (one coil instead of 3), make sure you alternate winding direction CW/CCW on each subsequent pole. It is not wound the same way (all one direction) as the 3 phase stator I show in the video. This coil goes to the 2 Yellow wires, and either wire can be connected to either end of the coil, it doesn't matter. The Red and Green wires are the pickup coil for ignition timing, leave that alone. Hope that helps!
In star connection do we have to connect the neutral to the body or do we have to isolate it
The 3 phase winding would still need to be isolated in star or y connection.
Would you give out some links for the epoxy ?
I always used TemCo Industrial IR0001 coil impregnating resin. It looks like that is not available anymore, it used to be easy to find on ebay. I found some similar resin on Amazon, this stuff would work fine:
www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-4228-55ML-Insulating-Varnish/dp/B008OA7DDK
@@OctaneElectrons Thanks. Just found that one . But thanks anyway !!!
@@OctaneElectrons That isn't an epoxy, it is a varnish. I want to rewind a rotor and really want an epoxy. Lots of vibration and high temps.
Can you recommend a product?
@@DeanMay Proper coil impregnating varnish is designed for such a scenario. My workshop mainly uses a 180 C./355 F. rated varnish on nearly all our rewinds of motors, transformers and coils. The only times we don't is usually when a very fast turn-around is required in which case we use an electrical epoxy that we can 'cook' in ten minutes as opposed to an overnight bake for varnish.
why do you keep skipping the most important parts?
Did you actually watch the video? It explains how to do everything.
So I should understand that the Delta connection is more stable and that's what you recommend? Greetings from Poland.
Bullet proof huh. My Ricks blew 3 weeks in. My Chinese is 5000 miles and running
That's how it goes sometimes. I don't have anything to do with Ricks, not sure what you're point is. Chinese made stators and regulators are excellent with proper quality control.
You have gsxr?
interesting
Thanks
Olá meu amigo! Pode me ajudar?
gracias!