I have been using an Everlast welder for 10 years. It has worked well and tech support has been excellent. You brought up a point that I hate to talk about - the flow guage. I don't know how much argon I have wasted because I never ( until today ) took note of the units of measurement. No wonder my argon supplier treats me so well - I have been using about twice as much gas as I should have been. I am quite old and you, a young guy, gave me some valuable information today. Thanks
It sure is annoying that the US won't convert to metric and be the same as almost everyone else in the world isn't it? The learning curve might suck, but man, would some things be a lot easier if everyone used the same system.
I went to welding school when I was 69. It was a very good experience and I got a lot of good instruction. But I still watch the welding videos on UA-cam.
Some of the comments you’re getting I think are unnecessarily harsh, because you are not being negative about that welding machine. You are actually saying that you pretty much like it a lot but these are just certain features that get on your nerves. And because I’m now shopping for my very first welder I appreciate all of the nuances that you’re talking about. Good job. Thank you for your thoughts.
Jeff Parmer I have the newer Everlast i-Tig 201 and it has a couple of his complaints fixed. I've had mine for just over 2 years and while it's not a Miller or HTP, it is not a bad DC tig welder. The amperage is detected and works with the pedal plugged but the amps are shown for the amperage being used with the pedal. This is how he mentions, but his welder is 5 years old, 6 years now...Also the regulator has both LPM and CFM on the same gauge. I've replaced just about every consumable on the welder, but the ones provided with it are not too bad. The 26 torch provided is not too bad with a flex head replacement off Amazon for $10, I use it with the button for burst tacks at high amps. The inside of the machine looks like one would expect, an inexpensive Chinese import. I only paid $550 for mine when it was on sale for Xmas, so no complaints. I don't think I could find a comparable Tig machine for the price. If you're looking for a new entry machine, look at the Primeweld 225x, it even comes with a CK 17 flex head torch, which is what I replaced on my i-Tig 200. It also does AC and costs $775. I've read it also has loud fans, but that should be expected and is so on Millers and Lincolns. The Primeweld is a pretty big unit though, bigger than the i-Tig 200. The AHP Alpha 201dx has a lot of happy owners also. I'd go with the Primeweld if I was to do it again. My next machine is most likely going to be an HTP, but it's a $3000 machine compared to the Primeweld at $775. Funny thing about his ranting video here is that he's happy with the machine, but I understand the annoyances. He would be happier with the i-Tig 201 or the I-Tig 200T (digital). Everlast support sucks, and they are rude. I don't think you'll find very good support on many of the entry level Chinese welders. That is the world we live in.
In my opnion those are minor annoyances compared to the bang for the buck you get. I could never have gotten into welding if I had to save up for a Miller.
Miller is over rated not to mention there prices keep getting more ridiculous every year. At least everlast is making a good name for itself, have not heard much bad about them. Maybe I’ll jump ship and get an everlast and ditch the Lincoln tig welder. Hmmmm... 🤔
@@Subi_doo They are pricey but they do make some really bad ass welders. My step dad bought the Miller Multimatic 220. It was a little over 3 grand but not only can it mig and tig, but you can hook both torches and gases up to the machine and it will automatically jump to the settings for whichever process you are using just by hitting the torch button (or pedal). You don't even have to touch the machine as long as your settings were already set for what you need. I paid about 1800 bucks for my Everlast Powertig 210 EXT and I can't even mig weld with it. So I guess it depends on what kind of Miller you are looking to buy. They have decent prices for the quality and customer service.
@@InClaymont Should have went with one of the mts machines, i got the 275 paid 2500 for it and i can do everything. Way better deal than the multimatic 220
I bought an Everlast powertig 185 back in 2014 to do aluminum welding. Its been a great machine for the money. A blue or red machine would have cost twice as much.
@@cobraframebuilding they do it to slow the internal heat sink warm up time. Helps keep the ICs running longer. That said, they sure as hell could've used a much quieter fan. I'm all for constant air flow, but it should be quieter
Hi, I'm considering picking up a 160 to learn TIG. I've read that their foot pedals and some accessories are lacking in quality. I'm curious to know your opinion and experience. Do you have any recommendations regarding accessories? I have no experience TIG welding. Thank you
@@gc7782first off, let me say I have no ties to everlast welders . I have owned Lincoln and Miller before. Everlast is my favorite brand now. I own 3 of their tig welders. The 160, 185, and the 250 Their pedals are a bit cheaper than Lincoln but, for a hobbyist, just fine. I use the trigger mostly anyhow. I won't switch back to any other brand.
@@rogeronslow1498 i do stainless repairs on restaurant equipment. Thats how i make my money. I own 3 tig welders, all everlast machines. Whats your point/accusation?
I've got on those Everlast welders with digital controls and their most recent pedals. Great all around welder. I do believe the company listens to their customers as they've moved their analog designs to digital (even the ones with knobs) and have included different, better pedals.
Yeah, Everlast is new on the scene and I think they are listening to people because most people seem to be happy with the green machines from what I can tell.
@@cobraframebuilding Hi, I'm considering picking up an Everlast 160 to learn TIG. I've read that their foot pedals and some accessories are lacking in quality. The machine comes with a stinger and a torch, but no foot pedal. Should I buy a pedal from everlast, or do you recommend some other brand foot pedal? Any opinions or recommendations would be much appreciated. Thank you
I have a 200 everlast Tig , paid $1300 seven years ago and I have none of your issues but the longevity of an everlast machine makes me glad I bought one.
Our units have better duty cycles compared to our competitors thanks to a high volume fan. On demand fans are relatively new, and with the development of them, duty cycles have fallen on models that use them. TIG welding and welding in general is not considered a quite occupation. DC TIG is quite, but most DC TIG welding is done in noisy environments, where a fan like that can be considered "white noise". AC TIG welding in fact is recommended to wear ear protection. It is quite loud. The welder is well designed and of top quality. If you are having arc starts that are difficult, it is usually a simple matter of cleaning and adjusting point gap, more of a maintenance issue than anything. This unit that you are discussing has not been around in about 5 years now. The 201 model replaced it and has many changes, though appearance is similar. You can adjust the amperage and determine the amperage while adjusting. All our regulators have been CFH for many years now. New units have more detail on the panel face. For those that need more detail and exact settings, we offer the Power i-TIG 200T.
They sell garbage I agree. They would not even help me identify a couple of chips on a bad board I ended up finding them replacing them costed 20$ the only option they gave me was buy a new board. They would not even give a schematic .So I dug deeper they don't even make these machines they claim they design them that's a lie also . They had no clue what any of the chips were that I sent pictures of they had no clue they were like well we can send a new board for 200$ lol all they could say they are theifs.my welder now works because I know about electronics. No help from everlast. Haha neverlast ..
@@TheSpidersoftheworld try doing that with other brands. Miller or lincoln won't either. A whole board is not that bad in comparison and jas any necessary upgrades made to it. Plus you have 5 years on the warranty.
I just got a power tig 185 dv and I’m extremely impressed. Regulator was in cfh and the dial was able to be adjusted and you were able to see the reading in the screen. I like that mine has the knobs and I don’t mind the fan being always on. It does move a lot of air but I’d rather it move too much than not enough.
I have an Everlast Power i-TIG 200T. I think many Everlast machines have the display follow the pedal output. It might be actual amperage and not a percentage. the idea is you set the maximum with the pedal not plugged in and after plugging in the pedal, the display follows the output according to the pedal. My machine is similar in size and cooling, but I've heard the Everlast 210 EXT has a very quiet fan. I think AHP AC/DC welder has a thermostat on the fan. I didn't need AC and I liked the low output settings on the Everlast. I might get a 210 EXT. The old 200 had a big following and has now been replaced with one made in another Chinese factory with a digital single board, but some complaints about the case squareness or lack of it and the rear on / off switch failing. Other that they get decent reviews, but watch the gas solenoid for function.
I got rid of my green weenie last week. I bought a Primeweld 225 a few months ago, which I highly recommend, I've had an XLNT experience with it. I was keeping my i-Tig 201 around for the stick capability and to have as a 2nd welder, but I sold it with all the crappy consumables it came with and now I'm green weenie free. No more Everlast anything for me. I just replaced it with an Esab Miniarc 180i, which is primarily a stick machine but which does lift-arc tig and can use a pedal for amperage control. The Esab is quite an amazing little box. For Tig I will primarily use my Primeweld, but the Esab will be useful for tig as well. I bought a CK Worldwide 17 Flexhead valve torch for the Esab, but it hasn't arrived yet. The Primeweld came with a genuine CK Worldwide 17 Flexhead torch as standard equipment. I'm through with Everlast for good. As the saying goes, screw me once, shame on you, screw me twice, shame on me...I will only be able to blame myself if I ever buy another green weenie in my lifetime.
@@mpf44 I think it depends on who you ask, problems vary on Everlast machines just like any product. In the 2 years I owned mine I saw people with regulator problems, gas hose problems, torch hose problems, or in the worst case motherboard replacements. Not any specific model, but the entire product line. For any service the customer pays for shipping both ways to get serviced, which is in TN. I replaced all my consumables on the machines within the first couple months. The stinger was replaced with a Lenco, the ground clamp was replaced with a Lincoln, the regulator was replaced with a Victor, and finally the torch was replaced with a CK 17 about 6 months after I had bought the machine. All of those were common to most machines with dinse 35, which both of the machines I have now use. I sold the original consumables with the machine. I didn't have any serious issues with my Everlast, but I was told I voided the warranty for opening it and cleaning some of the insulator spooge off the fan. The quality of the inside of the machine was not nearly as nice as the Primeweld, most wires have shrink wrap on the ends with crimped connectors where the Everlast just connected the wires. I took a loss of about $100 as I bought my Everlast on sale and sold when there wasn't a sale. Both the Everlast and Primeweld were made in China, but the quality of the Primeweld on the inside is much better, all of our mileage varies. Plus the Primeweld comes with a genuine CK Worldwide 17 Flexhead torch, what I replaced my Everlast with. Everlast will tell you the quality is the same, don't believe them. Primeweld pays shipping both ways. My Nova pedal I bought for the Everlast squeaked, the Primeweld doesn't. Everlast touts the Nova has a potentiometer that lasts longer, but if it always squeaks, who cares? It was annoying. There are a lot of happy customers of Everlast machines, and there are a lot of unhappy ones, search the Internet for yourself. Everlast tends to take care of any high profile sites which they sponsor, but others seem to get substandard treatment, I guess understandable, but when you're the little guy that doesn't bode as well.
@@mpf44 Well if you're in the market for a Tig welder, you simply can't ignore the Primeweld. The Fabrication Series has a good review, although pedal has changed since then. This is a recent review. ua-cam.com/video/ddIveqH1uQM/v-deo.html
I HAVE HAD MY EVERLAST 275 LIGHTNING M.T.S. AND EVERY COMPLAINT/ANNOYANCE YOU HAVE WITH THAT TIG-200 IS GONE.... YES IT'S DEFINITELY MORE AS FAR AS COST, BUT THE VALUE IS UNMATCHED WHEN YOU COMPARE WHAT THE 275 CAN DO COMPARED TO A MILLER
I'm considering buying that Lightning MTS 275. I've only ever MIG welded, but I do want to be able to do TIG as well. Do you feel this welder would be good for a small home fab shop, mostly doing home goods such as furniture and fixtures, but also some auto body and custom fab work?
@@HydeMyJekyll IT'S CAPABLE OF DOING WAY MORE THAN JUST A HOME FAB SHOP.... IT WILL DO EVERYTHING.... 110V/220V AC/DC, PULSE, ETC. ETC. I BOUGHT THE STAND, POWER-COOL 400, AND THE PARKER 360 SPOOL GUN.... THE MACHINE CAN DO ANYTHING THAT EVERY BIG CHANNEL DOES ON THEIR SHOWS, AS FOR ME.... WELL I'M STILL LEARNING.... BUT I LOVE HOW EASY IT IS TO OPERATE AND HOW DURABLE IT IS...... I WOULD BUY IT AGAIN FOR SURE..... I'M BUILDING A 71' C-10 AND JUST GOT DONE WELDING IN FLOOR PANS.... SIDE NOTE, IT HAS TWO GAS PORTS IN THE BACK AND I LOVE THIS ABOUT IT.... I RECOMMEND GETTING TWO 80 CU. FT. TANKS ONE OF 75/25 AND THE OTHER 100% ARGON.... GET AN EXTRA FLOW-RATER (IT COMES WITH 1 FLOW-RATER/REGULATOR) AND RUN BOTH TANKS TO THE BACK. 1 FOR MIG AND THE OTHER FOR TIG.... THAT WAY ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS TURN ON THE GAS AND SELECT THE PROCESS THAT YOU ARE GOING TO USE.... IF NOT YOU WILL HAVE TO SWAP OUT THE GAS HOSE EVERY TIME YOU SWAP PROCESSES.... KEEP IN MIND I HAD NEVER DONE ANY TYPE OF WELDING OTHER THAN FLUX-CORE WELDING FROM A 110V TRACTOR SUPPLY PIECE OF JUNK..... I PRE-ORDERED THE 275 BACK IN OCTOBER TO GET A GOOD DEAL ON IT AND I RECEIVED IT MID JANUARY(ONLY BECAUSE IT WASN'T RELEASED TIL JAN 2020) AND NOW I CAN MIG, TIG (THIN OR THICK METAL) AND WELD ALUMINUM.... WATCH ALL OF JODY'S VIDEO'S(WELDING TIPS AND TRICKS), JUSTIN'S (FABRICATION SERIES), BOB MOFFAT, RED BEARD, MR. TIG, AND MAN CUB (WELD.COM) KYLE (FAB FORUMS), DUSTY (PACIFIC ARC TIG WELDING) VIDEOS.... AND THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER..... YOU ARE GOING TO SUCK AT THE BEGINNING, BUT HOOD TIME IS THE ONLY THING THAT WILL MAKE YOU BETTER.....
@@Chad_N_Stacey_Hopson Thanks for the reply, man. I've done MIG welding for a couple years on an assembly line as well as working in a couple small fab shops making stuff like steel casement windows. I'd like to expand my skills to include TIG welding for even better looking welds on stuff like custom mounting brackets or fluid reservoirs for cars, and I'd LOVE to get into building bicycle frames.
@@HydeMyJekyll go to weldingtipsandtricks youtube channel and search his channel for building bike frames.... One of his buddy's does it and does an amazing job at it!!
@Jambo They also have Aliens working in sweat shops to build their welders. Give me a break. They are amazing welders for the price point. Hobbyists all can’t afford $10,000 welders just to tinker with welding. You must have tons of time on your hands to be making up crazy stories like they hire people to delete bad comments. Why hasn’t this video been deleted? The everlasting employees that work in the FBI probably haven’t found it yet, I guess. What a clown
My biggest issue with this machine, (I had an older I-tig) was mine was 5a to 200amp on the pedal. I couldn’t set a max amp on the machine and then go 0-100% of that max setting on the pedal. It was never an issue welding thick stuff as I could just go by the look of the puddle, but if I was welding thin sheet metal, it would of been nice to set max amps on the machine.
I bought an Everlast MIG based on a coworker recommending the brand as a good value. I've been a bit disappointed in the build quality of the machine, however it does weld nicely. The worst thing was the included ground cable. It was way too short and had a really cheap low quality clamp. It was more like a clamp that belongs on a battery charger than a welding machine. I purchased a much nicer ground cable from Amazon to solve this problem. It's longer than the gun cable now, and with a much better clamp. It makes the machine pretty much 100% more usable.
Hobart tig welder was about $1300. You saved about $700 buying an Everlast. I wonder if after 1-3 years the savings will be worth it. For Me...When I buy a low cost tool buyers' remorse always follows. When I use my Makita's', older Milwaukee's, Miller and other quality tools I never have regretted the purchase. Just saying?
Very good points and explained in a meaningful way. I have a Everlast 210 EXT and it is sure nice having all digital settings that can be saved. The stock foot pedal (when I bought a couple years ago) has a history of having a notchy feel and a short lifespan (mine was 9 months of light use). Their current foot pedals by Nova are dramatically better (similar to SSC). Great info and presentation!
When I bought mine in 2014 they had an option for a deluxe foot pedal upgrade. There wasn't really any info or pictures on the website to help you understand what was better about the deluxe pedal as I recall, but I heard the stock one was crap so I bought the upgrade from the start and it has done fine for me. If I have issues with the pedal I'll look into the Nova offering. I didn't know about that, so thanks for the heads up!
Is it possible that you could be using the wrong foot pedal? I know some older Everlast machines came with a foot pedal with a knob on it that replaced the panel knob when the pedal is plugged in....so Instead of setting your max amps on the front panel, you have to set the max amps on the foot pedal itself....it may be worth calling tech support to ask them what they deal is....cause every newer machine they make currently reads max amps on the machine using the knob on the front panel, and the readout doesn't change till you hit the pedal
So now that you're more experienced and your shop equipment has grown along with that, would you want to update to something with AC and other features that are easier to use? If so, bang for the buck and with what you know now, which models/brands would you be looking at?
Honestly, Everlast makes pretty good machines for stupid low prices. I have been burned sometimes when I try to save a buck, but this machine has been good to me and I know some other folks who put a lot of hours on everlast machines and love them. Frank at No. 22 bikes (he's in the comments here, too) has welded probably over a thousand Ti bikes on an Everlast now and he said he loves it.
Thanks for the shoutout! That post flow thing always drives me nuts, especially when I'm tacking things together. So unnecessary. I get a little annoyed with the volume of the fan too. That foot pedal unplug you have to do is wack!
Yeah, the foot pedal unplug is kinda bonkers. Pithy Bikes' comment about the foot pedal being broken is maybe accurate. It's one of the gripes that is real, but in practice it's not really a big issue so I just put up with it.
Displays should only be used for setting up the welder parameters. Displays that gives a readout while you are welding are about as useful as an ash tray on a motorbike; they are too dark to read and no one wants to look away from the weld puddle whilst running a weld pass.
Actually I really like how Miller machines display the highest reached amps during a weld momentarily. So when you finish you can view it and make adjustments to your max amp settings if it's not close or you want it set so you can max the pedal out at the setting that works best.
Same deal on mine with the LPH - It took me forever to figure out why I got much better results with super low flow settings compared to what everyone recommended... Doh!!
I think your footpedal potentiometer is not open even when your foot is off it. I'd split the pedal and look for a slide adjustment so there is no initial circuit
You got a DC only unit ya dunny. I got a everlast power tig 200dv and it does ac and DC and has a arc force feature and that is really handy and I love this thing. Only thing is I can't use pulse for stick welding witch is a bummer but it's great overall.
Everlast is a great company that sells good machines for a cheaper price compared to the big name brands. My everlast runs like a dream. The fan is no issue for me either. I used to work in big shops that had constant loud noises so a loud fan in my garage is no issue.
Hi Antonio...Me too no problem here, It must be something with the new generation that has not seen too much in the actual work place....LOL, You and I have seen it all, : )))
The lincoln SW200 and the HF protig 200 are both non starters for me because of synergic post flow ( no control over post flow time ) . And BTW, most of the millers do the same synergic post flow bullshit too ( no control over p[ost flow, ask me how i know ). the harbor freight protig 200 has 15-17 seconds of post flow that you have no control over AND SO DOES THE LINCOLN. the HF protig 200 is almost a 1to1 knock off of the Lincoln SW200. Both are gas eaters and will make your local gas supplier VERY happy you bought one.....
That's your difference between an under $1,000 machine and a $3,000 machine I own the prime weld Tig 225x ac/dcp and it's all analog and it's a bomb ass machine but I'm right there with you it's kind of a pain in the ass trying to recreate the settings
Regarding capturing settings one may want to use again in the future, maybe you could grab your phone and take a picture of the panel so you can line the knobs up again? You have what you have. 😊👍
That's probably the best way to do it. Yeah, the theme here is that my five biggest complaints aren't really that big of complaints because actually the machine is pretty awesome. The biggest issue with the way they do the knobs is that it's hard to know what your settings are exactly and to communicate that with other welders on different machines. Returning to your own settings with a reference photo of the front panel would likely work just fine, and because I pretty much only weld bikes I generally just keep the knobs where they are and turn on and off the pulser and sometimes tweak the amperage knob.
very funny video dude! I do understand your point though and if you want to be able to save your preset settings you need a digital machine along with your other gripes you need a digital machine. I commend you on a well made video as its easier to pick someones video apart then to make on but your production was very nice, good job on that
I'll do some videos on that for sure. I don't have a gasfluxer or a gas saver so I won't be able to comment about those parts of the setup but I want to do some basic intro to brass brazing, intro to silver brazing, and demo brazing videos I think as well as the O/A torch rig overview.
I have the bigger version off this machine and have some off the same problems. The wind and the dails annoy me the most. For the wind it generates, I made an aluminum wind deflector which deflect it down. Seems to make it al little quiter also.
Kyle Chaput High end machines run that way. They are much quieter when not welding. But his complaint is silly as they all make a fair amount of noise while welding
They still have that same screwy layout for the analog knobs on the Power-ITIG 201. There are 3 hash-marks between the 5 digit indicator lines on the knobs instead of four. So, for example Post Flow, the lines would indicate 10 seconds, then 11.25, then 12.5, 13.75, etc. Just plain screwy. It's ink. Why not just put something around the knobs that make sense.
Yeah, that's my thought. Nothing you can't manage to figure out how to live with, but just a little more time spent on the design would have made a much nicer product.
I'd rather have a machine that stays cool from beginning to end. This slows down the degradation process due to heat. Good feedback. Hey, I'd be happy to take your welder , warts and all. ;).
Thanks for the good review. I have this welder and the TIg function crapped out a couple days ago. Still no luck. The stick side works amazing still. Use caution, you may get a lemon buying Everlast.
Barry Thompson dang it man. Sorry for your luck. I was able to do some reading, and with a little prying, ended up being the HF contact gap was out of spec. It’s up and tigging again.
Well you bought an entry-level welder what did you expect? You probably should have just gone to Harbor Freight. I have the 255EXT it rocks I do not like the fan But I own a pretty busy shop and there's a lot of noise around and I use earbuds and not just hanging out in my garage making videos.
I love my Everlast. I used a Miller Syncrowave 350 at Serotta for 17 years so I'm used to the cooling fan 😁. Also, sounds like something is faulty with display on yours, I don't have that issue. Have you called support?
You know, I haven't called support about it, but I think I will. I doesn't really matter that much in practice day to day, but it would be good to know what kind of service is available so when people ask me about the machine I can tell them something about the service.
Same a did it mistake.. I get 256 tig plasma ex.. at sold it but 1500. Done . Get 220 miller multimatic they do ac. dc . Mig all processes .. get done the job .. if get those machine just get problems.. when working.. miller not if u miller shot down.. send it back a store .. to repaired Miller know u status to work they supported another machine to continue to work.. that's why get USA miller .. I live Chicago.. at my seller supply are wisco 2200 western.. Francisco seller guy at good guy .. I got experience at those situations believe .. at blue ... not the greens machine mean took the money
I think you give Everlast a bum rap. We've been using an Everlast 250EX for about 7 years (industrial service) with out so much as a hiccup. Regarding your gripes: (1) The fan noise. The other welder purchased new over the years were Millers, 2 MIG and 1 Synchrowave 250. All have very loud fans and perhaps for a good reason. Heat in electronics, especially with Inverter technology, is the enemy, therefore, "lots of air". Irritating? Yes, better to hear a loud fan than the silence of a welder that has blown it's finals because of heat build up. (2) LCD Readout: Connection in your foot switch. Proved when you retracted the foot pedal connector. Should be an easy fix. (3) Arc Start: Our machine, regardless of carbon/alloy steel, stainless steel or aluminum, start smooth and crisp, unless of course, we're trying to punch thru mill scale at which time we prepare the service as we should when tig welding. (4) Wind Noise: See point one. (5) Regulator: I don't think you should blame the manufacturer for your mis-interpretations on the label. When we purchased out Everlast, it was to replace the Miller Synchrowave 250. I was apprehensive because it didn't have the brand recognition. However many years (and weld jobs) later, our views have changed. Fix your foot pedal lead, buy a set of ear plugs and keep Tigging ! Thanks
Yeah, I said overall I like it and that these are *petty gripes*. Even when looking for things to complain about this is the best I've got. IDK why that's lost on everyone. I recommend these machines to many people.
My oh My........Have you ever worked in a REAL shop environment !!! Stop complaining about everything and just weld!!! For crying outload !!! This is the real world.....Where are we headed???
I have been using an Everlast welder for 10 years. It has worked well and tech support has been excellent. You brought up a point that I hate to talk about - the flow guage. I don't know how much argon I have wasted because I never ( until today ) took note of the units of measurement. No wonder my argon supplier treats me so well - I have been using about twice as much gas as I should have been. I am quite old and you, a young guy, gave me some valuable information today. Thanks
It sure is annoying that the US won't convert to metric and be the same as almost everyone else in the world isn't it? The learning curve might suck, but man, would some things be a lot easier if everyone used the same system.
I went to welding school when I was 69. It was a very good experience and I got a lot of good instruction. But I still watch the welding videos on UA-cam.
Some of the comments you’re getting I think are unnecessarily harsh, because you are not being negative about that welding machine. You are actually saying that you pretty much like it a lot but these are just certain features that get on your nerves. And because I’m now shopping for my very first welder I appreciate all of the nuances that you’re talking about. Good job. Thank you for your thoughts.
Jeff Parmer I have the newer Everlast i-Tig 201 and it has a couple of his complaints fixed. I've had mine for just over 2 years and while it's not a Miller or HTP, it is not a bad DC tig welder. The amperage is detected and works with the pedal plugged but the amps are shown for the amperage being used with the pedal. This is how he mentions, but his welder is 5 years old, 6 years now...Also the regulator has both LPM and CFM on the same gauge. I've replaced just about every consumable on the welder, but the ones provided with it are not too bad. The 26 torch provided is not too bad with a flex head replacement off Amazon for $10, I use it with the button for burst tacks at high amps. The inside of the machine looks like one would expect, an inexpensive Chinese import. I only paid $550 for mine when it was on sale for Xmas, so no complaints. I don't think I could find a comparable Tig machine for the price. If you're looking for a new entry machine, look at the Primeweld 225x, it even comes with a CK 17 flex head torch, which is what I replaced on my i-Tig 200. It also does AC and costs $775. I've read it also has loud fans, but that should be expected and is so on Millers and Lincolns. The Primeweld is a pretty big unit though, bigger than the i-Tig 200. The AHP Alpha 201dx has a lot of happy owners also. I'd go with the Primeweld if I was to do it again. My next machine is most likely going to be an HTP, but it's a $3000 machine compared to the Primeweld at $775. Funny thing about his ranting video here is that he's happy with the machine, but I understand the annoyances. He would be happier with the i-Tig 201 or the I-Tig 200T (digital). Everlast support sucks, and they are rude. I don't think you'll find very good support on many of the entry level Chinese welders. That is the world we live in.
In my opnion those are minor annoyances compared to the bang for the buck you get. I could never have gotten into welding if I had to save up for a Miller.
Yeah, I totally agree. It’s never stopped me from doing good work.
Miller is over rated not to mention there prices keep getting more ridiculous every year. At least everlast is making a good name for itself, have not heard much bad about them. Maybe I’ll jump ship and get an everlast and ditch the Lincoln tig welder. Hmmmm... 🤔
@@Subi_doo They are pricey but they do make some really bad ass welders. My step dad bought the Miller Multimatic 220. It was a little over 3 grand but not only can it mig and tig, but you can hook both torches and gases up to the machine and it will automatically jump to the settings for whichever process you are using just by hitting the torch button (or pedal). You don't even have to touch the machine as long as your settings were already set for what you need. I paid about 1800 bucks for my Everlast Powertig 210 EXT and I can't even mig weld with it. So I guess it depends on what kind of Miller you are looking to buy. They have decent prices for the quality and customer service.
@@cobraframebuilding you are completely correct i follow you 💯 from 🇨🇦 #YSW
@@InClaymont Should have went with one of the mts machines, i got the 275 paid 2500 for it and i can do everything. Way better deal than the multimatic 220
I bought an Everlast powertig 185 back in 2014 to do aluminum welding. Its been a great machine for the money. A blue or red machine would have cost twice as much.
lv2keepfit 49 I use lanthanated 2% tungsten on everything.
Trust everlast engineers , because all our machines are still running strong!!
On demand fan that works by a thermostat? .. until a thermostat fails and you fry the thing .. at least when it's running you know it's working
Fair enough.
@@cobraframebuilding they do it to slow the internal heat sink warm up time. Helps keep the ICs running longer. That said, they sure as hell could've used a much quieter fan. I'm all for constant air flow, but it should be quieter
I've been using my everlast 160 welder daily for the last 3+ years. I would buy another in a heartbeat.
Hi, I'm considering picking up a 160 to learn TIG. I've read that their foot pedals and some accessories are lacking in quality. I'm curious to know your opinion and experience. Do you have any recommendations regarding accessories? I have no experience TIG welding. Thank you
@@gc7782first off, let me say I have no ties to everlast welders . I have owned Lincoln and Miller before. Everlast is my favorite brand now. I own 3 of their tig welders. The 160, 185, and the 250
Their pedals are a bit cheaper than Lincoln but, for a hobbyist, just fine. I use the trigger mostly anyhow. I won't switch back to any other brand.
@@jpaps3798 That's reassuring to hear. I appreciate your input
Everlast wants to know where to post the cheque.
@@rogeronslow1498 i do stainless repairs on restaurant equipment. Thats how i make my money. I own 3 tig welders, all everlast machines. Whats your point/accusation?
I've got on those Everlast welders with digital controls and their most recent pedals. Great all around welder. I do believe the company listens to their customers as they've moved their analog designs to digital (even the ones with knobs) and have included different, better pedals.
Yeah, Everlast is new on the scene and I think they are listening to people because most people seem to be happy with the green machines from what I can tell.
@@cobraframebuilding Hi, I'm considering picking up an Everlast 160 to learn TIG. I've read that their foot pedals and some accessories are lacking in quality. The machine comes with a stinger and a torch, but no foot pedal. Should I buy a pedal from everlast, or do you recommend some other brand foot pedal? Any opinions or recommendations would be much appreciated. Thank you
@@gc7782 the standard pedal isn't bad, the nova torch and foot control are definite upgrades
I have a 200 everlast Tig , paid $1300 seven years ago and I have none of your issues but the longevity of an everlast machine makes me glad I bought one.
I have a feeling that your foot pedal is f'd. A circuit is likely crossed and is causing your welder to think the pedal is depressed ever so slightly.
I agree, exactly my thought, that foot pedal is not open when it should be. Sumthin is screwy inside the pedal.
I must have watched to many posts on welding. Since I said the wtf is it doing. Shame he never replied or contacted Everlast about it.
@Veteran Bicycle No it is not! I have the same thing and it works like it should - not like it is working on his.
I bought the 210 EXT. I love it. It has all the functions you are looking for.
Our units have better duty cycles compared to our competitors thanks to a high volume fan. On demand fans are relatively new, and with the development of them, duty cycles have fallen on models that use them. TIG welding and welding in general is not considered a quite occupation. DC TIG is quite, but most DC TIG welding is done in noisy environments, where a fan like that can be considered "white noise". AC TIG welding in fact is recommended to wear ear protection. It is quite loud. The welder is well designed and of top quality. If you are having arc starts that are difficult, it is usually a simple matter of cleaning and adjusting point gap, more of a maintenance issue than anything. This unit that you are discussing has not been around in about 5 years now. The 201 model replaced it and has many changes, though appearance is similar. You can adjust the amperage and determine the amperage while adjusting. All our regulators have been CFH for many years now. New units have more detail on the panel face. For those that need more detail and exact settings, we offer the Power i-TIG 200T.
You sell garbage from China
It's been a good machine for me and I am happy with it. Would buy again.
They sell garbage I agree. They would not even help me identify a couple of chips on a bad board I ended up finding them replacing them costed 20$ the only option they gave me was buy a new board. They would not even give a schematic .So I dug deeper they don't even make these machines they claim they design them that's a lie also . They had no clue what any of the chips were that I sent pictures of they had no clue they were like well we can send a new board for 200$ lol all they could say they are theifs.my welder now works because I know about electronics. No help from everlast. Haha neverlast ..
TheSpidersoftheworld would never spend money on that crap
I only use EWM machines
My opinion the best
@@TheSpidersoftheworld try doing that with other brands. Miller or lincoln won't either. A whole board is not that bad in comparison and jas any necessary upgrades made to it. Plus you have 5 years on the warranty.
A very fair and honest review. Thanks.
I just got a power tig 185 dv and I’m extremely impressed. Regulator was in cfh and the dial was able to be adjusted and you were able to see the reading in the screen. I like that mine has the knobs and I don’t mind the fan being always on. It does move a lot of air but I’d rather it move too much than not enough.
How do you like your 185dv? I’m contiplating on getting one
I have an Everlast Power i-TIG 200T. I think many Everlast machines have the display follow the pedal output. It might be actual amperage and not a percentage. the idea is you set the maximum with the pedal not plugged in and after plugging in the pedal, the display follows the output according to the pedal. My machine is similar in size and cooling, but I've heard the Everlast 210 EXT has a very quiet fan. I think AHP AC/DC welder has a thermostat on the fan. I didn't need AC and I liked the low output settings on the Everlast. I might get a 210 EXT. The old 200 had a big following and has now been replaced with one made in another Chinese factory with a digital single board, but some complaints about the case squareness or lack of it and the rear on / off switch failing. Other that they get decent reviews, but watch the gas solenoid for function.
I got rid of my green weenie last week. I bought a Primeweld 225 a few months ago, which I highly recommend, I've had an XLNT experience with it. I was keeping my i-Tig 201 around for the stick capability and to have as a 2nd welder, but I sold it with all the crappy consumables it came with and now I'm green weenie free. No more Everlast anything for me. I just replaced it with an Esab Miniarc 180i, which is primarily a stick machine but which does lift-arc tig and can use a pedal for amperage control. The Esab is quite an amazing little box. For Tig I will primarily use my Primeweld, but the Esab will be useful for tig as well. I bought a CK Worldwide 17 Flexhead valve torch for the Esab, but it hasn't arrived yet. The Primeweld came with a genuine CK Worldwide 17 Flexhead torch as standard equipment. I'm through with Everlast for good. As the saying goes, screw me once, shame on you, screw me twice, shame on me...I will only be able to blame myself if I ever buy another green weenie in my lifetime.
So what is the problem with the Everlast Tig?
@@mpf44 I think it depends on who you ask, problems vary on Everlast machines just like any product. In the 2 years I owned mine I saw people with regulator problems, gas hose problems, torch hose problems, or in the worst case motherboard replacements. Not any specific model, but the entire product line. For any service the customer pays for shipping both ways to get serviced, which is in TN. I replaced all my consumables on the machines within the first couple months. The stinger was replaced with a Lenco, the ground clamp was replaced with a Lincoln, the regulator was replaced with a Victor, and finally the torch was replaced with a CK 17 about 6 months after I had bought the machine. All of those were common to most machines with dinse 35, which both of the machines I have now use. I sold the original consumables with the machine. I didn't have any serious issues with my Everlast, but I was told I voided the warranty for opening it and cleaning some of the insulator spooge off the fan. The quality of the inside of the machine was not nearly as nice as the Primeweld, most wires have shrink wrap on the ends with crimped connectors where the Everlast just connected the wires. I took a loss of about $100 as I bought my Everlast on sale and sold when there wasn't a sale. Both the Everlast and Primeweld were made in China, but the quality of the Primeweld on the inside is much better, all of our mileage varies. Plus the Primeweld comes with a genuine CK Worldwide 17 Flexhead torch, what I replaced my Everlast with. Everlast will tell you the quality is the same, don't believe them. Primeweld pays shipping both ways. My Nova pedal I bought for the Everlast squeaked, the Primeweld doesn't. Everlast touts the Nova has a potentiometer that lasts longer, but if it always squeaks, who cares? It was annoying. There are a lot of happy customers of Everlast machines, and there are a lot of unhappy ones, search the Internet for yourself. Everlast tends to take care of any high profile sites which they sponsor, but others seem to get substandard treatment, I guess understandable, but when you're the little guy that doesn't bode as well.
@@TraditionalToolworks Thanks for taking the time to answer my question. Very useful information for a hard decision.
@@mpf44 Well if you're in the market for a Tig welder, you simply can't ignore the Primeweld. The Fabrication Series has a good review, although pedal has changed since then. This is a recent review. ua-cam.com/video/ddIveqH1uQM/v-deo.html
Absolutely good choice primeweld 225 😝
I HAVE HAD MY EVERLAST 275 LIGHTNING M.T.S. AND EVERY COMPLAINT/ANNOYANCE YOU HAVE WITH THAT TIG-200 IS GONE.... YES IT'S DEFINITELY MORE AS FAR AS COST, BUT THE VALUE IS UNMATCHED WHEN YOU COMPARE WHAT THE 275 CAN DO COMPARED TO A MILLER
I'm considering buying that Lightning MTS 275. I've only ever MIG welded, but I do want to be able to do TIG as well. Do you feel this welder would be good for a small home fab shop, mostly doing home goods such as furniture and fixtures, but also some auto body and custom fab work?
@@HydeMyJekyll IT'S CAPABLE OF DOING WAY MORE THAN JUST A HOME FAB SHOP.... IT WILL DO EVERYTHING.... 110V/220V AC/DC, PULSE, ETC. ETC.
I BOUGHT THE STAND, POWER-COOL 400, AND THE PARKER 360 SPOOL GUN.... THE MACHINE CAN DO ANYTHING THAT EVERY BIG CHANNEL DOES ON THEIR SHOWS, AS FOR ME.... WELL I'M STILL LEARNING.... BUT I LOVE HOW EASY IT IS TO OPERATE AND HOW DURABLE IT IS...... I WOULD BUY IT AGAIN FOR SURE..... I'M BUILDING A 71' C-10 AND JUST GOT DONE WELDING IN FLOOR PANS.... SIDE NOTE, IT HAS TWO GAS PORTS IN THE BACK AND I LOVE THIS ABOUT IT.... I RECOMMEND GETTING TWO 80 CU. FT. TANKS ONE OF 75/25 AND THE OTHER 100% ARGON.... GET AN EXTRA FLOW-RATER (IT COMES WITH 1 FLOW-RATER/REGULATOR) AND RUN BOTH TANKS TO THE BACK. 1 FOR MIG AND THE OTHER FOR TIG.... THAT WAY ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS TURN ON THE GAS AND SELECT THE PROCESS THAT YOU ARE GOING TO USE.... IF NOT YOU WILL HAVE TO SWAP OUT THE GAS HOSE EVERY TIME YOU SWAP PROCESSES.... KEEP IN MIND I HAD NEVER DONE ANY TYPE OF WELDING OTHER THAN FLUX-CORE WELDING FROM A 110V TRACTOR SUPPLY PIECE OF JUNK..... I PRE-ORDERED THE 275 BACK IN OCTOBER TO GET A GOOD DEAL ON IT AND I RECEIVED IT MID JANUARY(ONLY BECAUSE IT WASN'T RELEASED TIL JAN 2020) AND NOW I CAN MIG, TIG (THIN OR THICK METAL) AND WELD ALUMINUM.... WATCH ALL OF JODY'S VIDEO'S(WELDING TIPS AND TRICKS), JUSTIN'S (FABRICATION SERIES), BOB MOFFAT, RED BEARD, MR. TIG, AND MAN CUB (WELD.COM) KYLE (FAB FORUMS), DUSTY (PACIFIC ARC TIG WELDING) VIDEOS.... AND THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER..... YOU ARE GOING TO SUCK AT THE BEGINNING, BUT HOOD TIME IS THE ONLY THING THAT WILL MAKE YOU BETTER.....
@@Chad_N_Stacey_Hopson Thanks for the reply, man. I've done MIG welding for a couple years on an assembly line as well as working in a couple small fab shops making stuff like steel casement windows. I'd like to expand my skills to include TIG welding for even better looking welds on stuff like custom mounting brackets or fluid reservoirs for cars, and I'd LOVE to get into building bicycle frames.
@@HydeMyJekyll go to weldingtipsandtricks youtube channel and search his channel for building bike frames.... One of his buddy's does it and does an amazing job at it!!
@Jambo They also have Aliens working in sweat shops to build their welders. Give me a break. They are amazing welders for the price point. Hobbyists all can’t afford $10,000 welders just to tinker with welding. You must have tons of time on your hands to be making up crazy stories like they hire people to delete bad comments. Why hasn’t this video been deleted? The everlasting employees that work in the FBI probably haven’t found it yet, I guess. What a clown
My biggest issue with this machine, (I had an older I-tig) was mine was 5a to 200amp on the pedal. I couldn’t set a max amp on the machine and then go 0-100% of that max setting on the pedal. It was never an issue welding thick stuff as I could just go by the look of the puddle, but if I was welding thin sheet metal, it would of been nice to set max amps on the machine.
I'm guessing the fan is always on because you have an analog unit so they didn't want to throw in a micro controller just for the fan. Just a guess.
My Millermatic has a fan that's on all the time.
I bought an Everlast MIG based on a coworker recommending the brand as a good value. I've been a bit disappointed in the build quality of the machine, however it does weld nicely. The worst thing was the included ground cable. It was way too short and had a really cheap low quality clamp. It was more like a clamp that belongs on a battery charger than a welding machine. I purchased a much nicer ground cable from Amazon to solve this problem. It's longer than the gun cable now, and with a much better clamp. It makes the machine pretty much 100% more usable.
Hobart tig welder was about $1300. You saved about $700 buying an Everlast. I wonder if after 1-3 years the savings will be worth it. For Me...When I buy a low cost tool buyers' remorse always follows. When I use my Makita's', older Milwaukee's, Miller and other quality tools I never have regretted the purchase. Just saying?
you get what you pay for
Credit given for the flow meter comment. I’m not sure if I knew that , but thank you tremendously for your gas flow information.
Very good points and explained in a meaningful way. I have a Everlast 210 EXT and it is sure nice having all digital settings that can be saved. The stock foot pedal (when I bought a couple years ago) has a history of having a notchy feel and a short lifespan (mine was 9 months of light use). Their current foot pedals by Nova are dramatically better (similar to SSC). Great info and presentation!
When I bought mine in 2014 they had an option for a deluxe foot pedal upgrade. There wasn't really any info or pictures on the website to help you understand what was better about the deluxe pedal as I recall, but I heard the stock one was crap so I bought the upgrade from the start and it has done fine for me. If I have issues with the pedal I'll look into the Nova offering. I didn't know about that, so thanks for the heads up!
Is it possible that you could be using the wrong foot pedal? I know some older Everlast machines came with a foot pedal with a knob on it that replaced the panel knob when the pedal is plugged in....so Instead of setting your max amps on the front panel, you have to set the max amps on the foot pedal itself....it may be worth calling tech support to ask them what they deal is....cause every newer machine they make currently reads max amps on the machine using the knob on the front panel, and the readout doesn't change till you hit the pedal
Mine everlast is showing peak amps, when footpedal is connected, it's littlebit bigger model 220DX if i remember correctly
Atleast its a positive review and not like some other people reviews that you can tell there just complainers.
Never thought about the fan noise. Good point to be sure
It is gray noise to block your wife’s whining.
So now that you're more experienced and your shop equipment has grown along with that, would you want to update to something with AC and other features that are easier to use? If so, bang for the buck and with what you know now, which models/brands would you be looking at?
Honestly, Everlast makes pretty good machines for stupid low prices. I have been burned sometimes when I try to save a buck, but this machine has been good to me and I know some other folks who put a lot of hours on everlast machines and love them. Frank at No. 22 bikes (he's in the comments here, too) has welded probably over a thousand Ti bikes on an Everlast now and he said he loves it.
Thanks for the shoutout! That post flow thing always drives me nuts, especially when I'm tacking things together. So unnecessary. I get a little annoyed with the volume of the fan too. That foot pedal unplug you have to do is wack!
Yeah, the foot pedal unplug is kinda bonkers. Pithy Bikes' comment about the foot pedal being broken is maybe accurate. It's one of the gripes that is real, but in practice it's not really a big issue so I just put up with it.
Displays should only be used for setting up the welder parameters. Displays that gives a readout while you are welding are about as useful as an ash tray on a motorbike; they are too dark to read and no one wants to look away from the weld puddle whilst running a weld pass.
Actually I really like how Miller machines display the highest reached amps during a weld momentarily. So when you finish you can view it and make adjustments to your max amp settings if it's not close or you want it set so you can max the pedal out at the setting that works best.
Very helpful video as I shop for a machine. Thank you.
I have used the king of welders (Miller 250 Syncrowave for 6 hours per day for 11 years to weld tubular stainless frames. You get what you pay for.
Yeah, an overpriced big blue box.
My 2019 200DV has both LPM & CFH on the regulator.
Same deal on mine with the LPH - It took me forever to figure out why I got much better results with super low flow settings compared to what everyone recommended... Doh!!
I think your footpedal potentiometer is not open even when your foot is off it. I'd split the pedal and look for a slide adjustment so there is no initial circuit
Fan ? It is a High power Welder. All my Large Millers have a constant Fan. The rest of the upgrades you have to Buy. I like my Power Pro 256 D.
His metal shop is too loud to focus on his work.....
You got a DC only unit ya dunny. I got a everlast power tig 200dv and it does ac and DC and has a arc force feature and that is really handy and I love this thing. Only thing is I can't use pulse for stick welding witch is a bummer but it's great overall.
all excellent info, many thanks!
Everlast is a great company that sells good machines for a cheaper price compared to the big name brands. My everlast runs like a dream. The fan is no issue for me either. I used to work in big shops that had constant loud noises so a loud fan in my garage is no issue.
Hi Antonio...Me too no problem here, It must be something with the new generation that has not seen too much in the actual work place....LOL, You and I have seen it all, : )))
The lincoln SW200 and the HF protig 200 are both non starters for me because of synergic post flow ( no control over post flow time ) . And BTW, most of the millers do the same synergic post flow bullshit too ( no control over p[ost flow, ask me how i know ). the harbor freight protig 200 has 15-17 seconds of post flow that you have no control over AND SO DOES THE LINCOLN. the HF protig 200 is almost a 1to1 knock off of the Lincoln SW200. Both are gas eaters and will make your local gas supplier VERY happy you bought one.....
I have to agree, I would love to have the Alphatig, but it’s $700 more
Can you turn off the welder its so loud
Maybe everlast knew what it takes to deliver “longevity “ via adequate cooling.
All true! I have the same grievances.
It's a budget model however, many welding machines have had a loud or always on model.
That's your difference between an under $1,000 machine and a $3,000 machine I own the prime weld Tig 225x ac/dcp and it's all analog and it's a bomb ass machine but I'm right there with you it's kind of a pain in the ass trying to recreate the settings
Sounds like a bad pedal. Did you ever change it out.
Part number to that adapter to run 2 flow meter? Please
I don't know. Just call your local welding supplier or one of the online places and they should be able to help you out.
Regarding capturing settings one may want to use again in the future, maybe you could grab your phone and take a picture of the panel so you can line the knobs up again? You have what you have. 😊👍
That's probably the best way to do it. Yeah, the theme here is that my five biggest complaints aren't really that big of complaints because actually the machine is pretty awesome. The biggest issue with the way they do the knobs is that it's hard to know what your settings are exactly and to communicate that with other welders on different machines. Returning to your own settings with a reference photo of the front panel would likely work just fine, and because I pretty much only weld bikes I generally just keep the knobs where they are and turn on and off the pulser and sometimes tweak the amperage knob.
very funny video dude! I do understand your point though and if you want to be able to save your preset settings you need a digital machine along with your other gripes you need a digital machine. I commend you on a well made video as its easier to pick someones video apart then to make on but your production was very nice, good job on that
Nice review!
You could be tacking with a Harbor Freight flux wire welder!
Great input.
Another nice one! I'd love to see something on brazing!
I'll do some videos on that for sure. I don't have a gasfluxer or a gas saver so I won't be able to comment about those parts of the setup but I want to do some basic intro to brass brazing, intro to silver brazing, and demo brazing videos I think as well as the O/A torch rig overview.
You just need to clean, or adjust your pedal. The machine is reading an input amperage without the amperage start switch being activated.
As far as your analog knobs goes, why not just read it like a clock? 2 o`clock position, etc.
Your display or board is messed up. I think you should see display rise.
Nice information, but it comes across as whining. Besides, I think that you would have been able to find this out prior to purchasing this machine.
My multiprocess everlast also sounds like a jet engine. Some day I will mod it.
How is your unit a year later? I just purchased tge Storm Mig/Stick/Plasma
Add some wings.
I am really going to do my homework before i by a tig welder ,also i after look at it in person ,not just order it online.
I have the bigger version off this machine and have some off the same problems. The wind and the dails annoy me the most. For the wind it generates, I made an aluminum wind deflector which deflect it down. Seems to make it al little quiter also.
Yeah. Overall you can’t beat it though!
For the price it's a very good welder
Good thing about the fan always on is it won't get hot.
Why would you want a welder to get hot before it starts cooling
Kyle Chaput High end machines run that way. They are much quieter when not welding.
But his complaint is silly as they all make a fair amount of noise while welding
Well at my shop the Miller XMT 450, fan comes on with power switch pretty high end machine but agreed a silly complaint
Those regulators have different colored plastic balls inside the glass for different gasses A pink and a blue. Check that out.
This is why I purchased a Miller Dynasty 200.
The "fan always on noise level" is a deal breaker. Thanks for this video. Thumbs up.
I can't find a cheap DC tig welder that can stick weld 6010 worth a damn. Have to buy two machines.
Switch to 7018 lol
They still have that same screwy layout for the analog knobs on the Power-ITIG 201. There are 3 hash-marks between the 5 digit indicator lines on the knobs instead of four. So, for example Post Flow, the lines would indicate 10 seconds, then 11.25, then 12.5, 13.75, etc. Just plain screwy. It's ink. Why not just put something around the knobs that make sense.
Yeah, that's my thought. Nothing you can't manage to figure out how to live with, but just a little more time spent on the design would have made a much nicer product.
All of your issues can be fixed easily, go buy a machine that costs 3 times as much.
Great review and concise info, but the comments are hilarious.
I'd rather have a machine that stays cool from beginning to end. This slows down the degradation process due to heat.
Good feedback. Hey, I'd be happy to take your welder , warts and all. ;).
Well presented and articulate. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
+1 Cobra!
Buy. A miller or Lincoln,your going to pay 2.5 to 3 times the cost.
What you want is fan on demand.
The peak amp display is normal.
Analog is way better unless yo like pecking buttons. Just. Buy a Miller welder.
Those regulators are for tri mix gases.
Its because of the size machine
its an everlast bang for your buck type situation, spend the 2k-3k for a blue
You could just spend 4k more and not have these problems !
If you want something good get a miller or lincoln thats it too much drama
Garbage. Get an HTP.
The newer millers are absolute junk.
that fan noise is obnoxious ...
Thanks for the good review. I have this welder and the TIg function crapped out a couple days ago. Still no luck. The stick side works amazing still. Use caution, you may get a lemon buying Everlast.
Exactly, my $2500 Everlast did about 200 hours work - now it can't be repaired in Aus.
Barry Thompson dang it man. Sorry for your luck. I was able to do some reading, and with a little prying, ended up being the HF contact gap was out of spec. It’s up and tigging again.
@@dusty6345 Hey, thanks for the reply. I did change out the whole HF board but still no luck. Hence Im pretty gun shy of this brand.
Buy the everlast 255ext that will stop you from whining
Well you bought an entry-level welder what did you expect? You probably should have just gone to Harbor Freight. I have the 255EXT it rocks I do not like the fan But I own a pretty busy shop and there's a lot of noise around and I use earbuds and not just hanging out in my garage making videos.
It’s a great machine and overall and for the price I love it. These are my petty gripes and I think I was pretty clear about that.
I love my Everlast. I used a Miller Syncrowave 350 at Serotta for 17 years so I'm used to the cooling fan 😁. Also, sounds like something is faulty with display on yours, I don't have that issue. Have you called support?
You know, I haven't called support about it, but I think I will. I doesn't really matter that much in practice day to day, but it would be good to know what kind of service is available so when people ask me about the machine I can tell them something about the service.
Same a did it mistake.. I get 256 tig plasma ex.. at sold it but 1500. Done . Get 220 miller multimatic they do ac. dc . Mig all processes .. get done the job .. if get those machine just get problems.. when working.. miller not if u miller shot down.. send it back a store .. to repaired Miller know u status to work they supported another machine to continue to work.. that's why get USA miller .. I live Chicago.. at my seller supply are wisco 2200 western.. Francisco seller guy at good guy .. I got experience at those situations believe .. at blue ... not the greens machine mean took the money
Looks like I'll be paying the extra $2000 for the HTP Invertig 221.
Just get longer cords and put it in a washroom while you're using it!!!
I think you give Everlast a bum rap. We've been using an Everlast 250EX for about 7 years (industrial service) with out so much as a hiccup. Regarding your gripes: (1) The fan noise. The other welder purchased new over the years were Millers, 2 MIG and 1 Synchrowave 250. All have very loud fans and perhaps for a good reason. Heat in electronics, especially with Inverter technology, is the enemy, therefore, "lots of air". Irritating? Yes, better to hear a loud fan than the silence of a welder that has blown it's finals because of heat build up. (2) LCD Readout: Connection in your foot switch. Proved when you retracted the foot pedal connector. Should be an easy fix. (3) Arc Start: Our machine, regardless of carbon/alloy steel, stainless steel or aluminum, start smooth and crisp, unless of course, we're trying to punch thru mill scale at which time we prepare the service as we should when tig welding. (4) Wind Noise: See point one. (5) Regulator: I don't think you should blame the manufacturer for your mis-interpretations on the label.
When we purchased out Everlast, it was to replace the Miller Synchrowave 250. I was apprehensive because it didn't have the brand recognition. However many years (and weld jobs) later, our views have changed.
Fix your foot pedal lead, buy a set of ear plugs and keep Tigging !
Thanks
Yeah, I said overall I like it and that these are *petty gripes*. Even when looking for things to complain about this is the best I've got. IDK why that's lost on everyone. I recommend these machines to many people.
Listen to the cheap azz complain about buying the cheap version of a good welder... 🤦🏾...
Or get an HTP
Try a different pedal, something is wrong with it.
my everlast works fine. you machine has a issue. you should have bought a miller .
SMH, If you bought a machine that didn't have them "flaws", you'd complain that you paid too much, lmao.
Are you gonna b ok...?!
nice
I think I met you at NAHBS?
Yup, that was me. You were suggesting that I should get into pantographing, right?
@@cobraframebuilding Yeup that was me!!!
If you hate this machine why did you buy it
How the fuck did he know he wasn't going to like it not like he can test drive it at a dealer
pete kyllo he said he likes it overall?
My oh My........Have you ever worked in a REAL shop environment !!! Stop complaining about everything and just weld!!! For crying outload !!! This is the real world.....Where are we headed???