P2 is a the 5.9 St Bernard Variation I believe! I followed this video (thank you for the resource 😊) and was thinking to myself where are the finger cracks hahaha
Looks like an awesome route. Lotta cams, but then I'm a really old climber, would've used mostly nuts in that absolutely perfect crack. My favorite 8 there is still gonna be Diedre, though. You don't see a line like that, that long, very often. Although 5 or 6 pitches of splitter crack is definitely primo, too.
Yeah it takes lots of good gear. We used all cams for this because we were simo climbing and trying to see how fast we could do it. So for speed and ease I just tossed in cam. Ended up placing under a double rack for the whole climb!
You gotta be really old.... I taught myself to climb at 12 starting in '72, first rack had the single diameter Chouniard hexes and some stoppers. Some Pecks, Clogs, and other weird stuff followed. By the time I hit Uni in '79 I was getting a rack of friends. Forget exactly what year. Real nuts where a short lived thing. I miss the art of it.
@@alpinegremlin4408 All cams for simulclimbing is definitely good. I can understand that-quicker to place, and a greater variety of solid placements, safer, too.
you guys had a beauty day for it!
Thanks!
Love that route!
So fun!!!
P2 is a the 5.9 St Bernard Variation I believe! I followed this video (thank you for the resource 😊) and was thinking to myself where are the finger cracks hahaha
Saint Vitus' Dance
Was that a micro triaxon? And how long is that rope?
Yeah. We simo climbed it in one block with a 70m so I took a couple micros to make it more safe
Killer dude! What brewery? Backcountry or A frame lmao
😂😂 A Frame! We bootied some guys DMM nuts when they bailed and we agreed for a safe return we would need beers lol
Looks like an awesome route. Lotta cams, but then I'm a really old climber, would've used mostly nuts in that absolutely perfect crack.
My favorite 8 there is still gonna be Diedre, though. You don't see a line like that, that long, very often. Although 5 or 6 pitches of splitter crack is definitely primo, too.
Yeah it takes lots of good gear. We used all cams for this because we were simo climbing and trying to see how fast we could do it. So for speed and ease I just tossed in cam. Ended up placing under a double rack for the whole climb!
You gotta be really old.... I taught myself to climb at 12 starting in '72, first rack had the single diameter Chouniard hexes and some stoppers. Some Pecks, Clogs, and other weird stuff followed. By the time I hit Uni in '79 I was getting a rack of friends. Forget exactly what year. Real nuts where a short lived thing. I miss the art of it.
@@alpinegremlin4408 All cams for simulclimbing is definitely good. I can understand that-quicker to place, and a greater variety of solid placements, safer, too.
Good idea to place a bomber piece after the capture device ;) U never want to have a set up where you would take a lead fall on a microtraxion I mean.
🤙🏼