My leak detector instructions mentioned nothing about taking coolant out of the radiator to test. Tried it so many times and the coolant just flushed into the tester and ruined the test. Thanks so much for including that info!
Thanks for sharing your experience with this tool. Being as old as I am, I can honestly say that I hadn't seen it but once before on another UA-cam channel. But the guy never explained how it works. You did a great job of explaining and truly show it in action. 👍👍👍
I wondered about that too, and I'm still sot sure. Aren't most reservoirs especially on older models meant to be sort of separate from the rest of the system, only capturing and releasing fluid or air when valves are opened due to pressures within the enclosed system? Could it be that you are talking about newer models where the "reservoir" is designed to withstand the pressure of the system?
@@Rick-the-Swift Nah, if the system is a closed system which all modern cars should be, theoretically if the car has been driven to reach opening temps on the thermometer to open up coolant flow, the exhaust leak should be able to be tested from the reservoir. The way he does it in the video is completely correct too.. Just make sure the car is cooled down before testing it that way
Thank you, I like how you explained everything in doing this test. This was very helpful and informative. I'm glad that it was only your radiator that was the culprit.
@@darrenvogel8096 The thermostat has to open to let the gasses leave the engine circuit and move into the radiator and coolant tank. So you would first have to warm it all the way up to 90 deg c.
Thx @ Nus and Bolts Auto, I just got my tester in today from amazon and tested immediately with promising results. My problem is i just bought a 2008 sequoia from craigs list w/ 233000 miles, I test drove it, checked cold start check steering fluid and inspected the bottom for any leaks from engine and trans, all was well until. I noticed i was loosing coolant, so i bought more and it would slowly lower in the reservoir, I did notice a leak behind the radiator where all the red coolant collects and dries out, also think the water pump may be leaking from weep hole, really that wasn't my biggest concern. I was really concerned the original owner drove with low coolant and overheated the engine and thats why they sold it. so it was a relief to run the same test and come up with good results, now I feel better about replacing the radiator and water pump with no major concerns about a head gasket. I used a suction pump to take fluid out from radiator and let the truck run idle for about 10min the radiator felt hot and temp gauge needle was in middle so i assume the thermostat is open and pumped the little ball for another 7min with solid blue color. FYI to craigslist buyers, check behind the radiator with your phone camera, when i saw this truck the front of the radiator was clean with no evidence of a leak, also got my spark plugs changed and no evidence of oil on the plugs so I'm happy.
233K miles is nothing for the Sequoia engine, if you regularly change the oil you will get double that and the Sequoia engine is not known for experiencing head gasket problems
Robb Flynn Thx for reply. The sequoia now has 257k miles and doesn’t skip a beat both engine and tranny are solid. Only issues is worn power steering hose, suspension a little rough. other than that, its a tank.
@@salguzman7840 Don't forget about changing the timing belt, it's supposed to be done every 90,000 miles although I have close to 160,000 on my 2004 Sequoia and I know it's never been changed but will get it done over the summer.
@@robbflynn4325 Hi just curious if you ever got that timing belt changed? I'm asking because I personally think it's not always necessary depending on the model. I've heard some say to change it every 60k but I wouldn't do it. I don't think I've ever changed mine on my ranger with over 180k. Why? Well, because all the other belts look fine after all those miles so why shouldn't the timing belt? I personally think unless you are a skilled DIYer it could be quite a mistake taking your vehicle and handing it over to another. There are countless nightmare stories about vehicles coming back in worse shape then they went in, even had a few myself. Plus they always find something else wrong that you never knew about or even suspected. I don't know, I just don't like the idea of taking an engine apart unless you really have to.
@Rick-the-Swift a TB change should be an easy job for any mechanic. Had mine done just for peace of mind. The old one did look in pretty good shape, but with it being an interference engine, there was no way I was taking any chances. Won't be in such a rush to get it done again, though.
Excellent video, good, clear, complete instructions and you created understanding. Thank you! EDIT: I ran the test today, and all is GOOD! Whew! I did not want to replace a head gasket. NOTE: if all is tight and right, once you pull a vacuum on the radiator, it's very difficult to get any more bubbles. Revving the engine seems to give a little more, but the test took a long time to run since I just wasn't getting bubbles. I wanted to get as good a test as possible.
This! I wish all tutorials on UA-cam were this concise and direct!!! And he didn't feel the need to point the camera in his face and say "what's up guys!" With thug rap in the background!
Dang i should have picked up this tester. I purchased a different brand, and it didn't come with the hand pump--it came with a vacuum line hose. What a pain! I'm returning it I think. Excellent video and I really like how you did the exhaust test at the end as proof of test.
No, you shouldnt have to bleed your coolant system as long as there's a good coolant level in your radiator. Only 2-3" of clearance is needed for the test. Just top off your coolant afterward.
In my case it’s a very subtle leak. Customers says at times he can drive a hundred miles and not loose coolant then all of the sudden it loose enough for the car to overheat. When I did the test the color remain blue but you can see yellow tint in on top of the foaming as it bubbles when you press the bulb. The test fluid remain blue but with a different hue of blue from original color. I pressure test it but it holds pressure for a long time. It looses one PSI in about 20 minutes. I don’t see any visible leak even when I pressure test so it has to be the cylinder head
So i made my test wrong! Now i know it. Thank you so much! (It actually sucked coolant on both cars i have tried. The blue liquid stayed on top of the yellow-orange coolant and never changed color. I would bet it's still fine, but i'll do the test differently tomorrow just to be sure)
My leak detector didn't say whether to do the test cold or hot. I wanted to do it hot but when coolant flows through my radiator it splashes up into the tester and ruins the test. I thought at first it was splashing because of bubbles but I think its because my radiator has a top flow outlet hose that is mounted very high, slightly higher than the cap. so anyway, I did the test on a warm engine and it was negative, and I was also able to get about 5 pumps after the thermostat opened and it was still blue so hopefully it was accurate.
What about with a Prius. I feel like it has such a strong pressurization at the reservoir that the bulb won’t allow you to get any exhaust up into it lol
Sure but it seems like a lot more work than just sucking a little juice out and waiting 5 minutes for the engine to warm up doesn't it? And good luck getting those hoses off and back on without doing damage to yourself or the vehicle would be my next thought.
Did you tell them once it's at operating temp to turn the heater on full to give them the 60 seconds? If you don't open it you will NOT have 60 seconds.
Need to get this tester because i'm losing coolant but have ZERO signs of a leak. the coolant gets stuck in the reservoid and not gets sucked back into the engine. but it will overheat on me JUST ONCE this year.
I gotta say, very, very good video. I was hoping to figure out what to do if the suction bulb has gone missing but you still have the box and everything! If you read this and have an idea, please reply. Thanks.
That's a tough one. Seeing as the kit is only $30, I'd say to just buy a replacement. You can TRY using one of these: amzn.to/3uZhhwT. That type of suction pump may be able to fit inside the tool. I can't say for sure, though.
@@NutsandBoltsAuto Thanks for the reply. Here's my workaround solution: used small diameter rubber hose and stuffed into top of test kit; I turned on my shop vacuum and held the other end of the rubber hose just close enough to the vacuum hose to get bubbles flowing; pinch off small rubber hose to adjust amount of vacuum. Oh and yes, dye turned yellow. :-(
Good question. I doubt it because the test only tests air. If it turns positive when testing fumes from the exhaust, seems like it ought to test positive if those fumes came through water first. Seems like a lot of hassle unless you are maybe super flushing your system anyway and were already planning on going 100% h2o for the flush.
You where differently on the right one thing is that idle at temp will show a false reading take for a drive under a load and retest it has happened to me all signs point to head gasket but at temp idle no gas present after the test drive user load gas was present
But do you leave your radiator cap off? I'd think you'd have to, or it would spit when u pulled back in to do the test. Is it ok to drive short distance with no cap?
So how come every place doesn't show the list of things that make up the fluid.... Coolant they show the back lable, oil... But block tester you have to buy it to see the back... What is it made of stuff easier to get without spending as much.... You don't even really need the kit to test either just a way to get coolant from the system into a container with the block tester fluid....
If it does turn yellow, how do u know if its the gasket, block or cracked head? My car is spitting coolant out the reservoir and boiling. Plus the oil filler cap has a milkshake looking substance on the bottom.
Follow it up with a Leak Down Test. You would need the tool and a compressor. Apply air pressure into the cylinders one at a time. Then search for the leak.
I have either an exhaust leak or a valve tick....can i use this where i suspect the exhaust manifold is leaking to find if i do have a leak or not? I would imagine this would work
i only get a few squeezes of the bulb and it pretty much quits expanding. i assume that is because i don't have a leak or at least not much of one. i waited with the bulb colapsed for over a minute and no change, no air flow through the tester.
i’m trying to test this on my hyundai elantra, coolant just keeps getting sucked into the tube, do i have to completely empty the coolant reservoir? it just keeps going up no matter what...
You should remove enough coolant to allow 1 minute to use the tester. Stop if you notice the fluid level rising in the tester. This means you're sucking in coolant, and you need to start over.
#1) The block tester I borrowed from O'Reilly (from EverTough) warns in the enclosed a paper from the manufacturer to NOT USE ON DIESELS. (Luckily I have a gas engine. #2) After removing the antifreeze from the top of the radiator ( giving me 2" of air space I sucked the tester 6-7 times with the engine ideling at about 700 rpm. Like you said you only have ab
I had a couple of bad head gasket symptoms. Pressure in the radiator overnight when cool. Reservoir getting overfilled. So I got together all the parts, went to get coolant, and the radiator burst. So I got a new radiator, and the reservoir is actually dropping a tiny bit after it cools now. So i get this tester and the color doesn't change, so great then. But I held it up to my exhaust, and the color still didn't change. So that was a waste. What could I be doing wrong?
Let's see, removing a thermostat at best might be a 20 min. job. Then you would have to re-install it (another 20 min. job at best) plus buy a new gasket. Why not just wait 20 min. for the vehicle to warm up to save time & money????
I'm loosing all my coolant super fast in about 45min of driving without seeing any drops on the floor or around the engine. I took my car to the Honda dealership in my country and they said that I have a blown head gasket. The day after, a friend of me did this test for my car and it didn't turn out yellow which got me so confused and couldn't understand who's the right and who's not. Can you assist with this ASAP please
The test tests if exhaust gasses get into the coolant. So the coolant stays in. In your case it may be the opposite: the coolant goes into the exhaust and the pressure of the coolant is higher than the exhaust, so you lose the coolant. The headgasket leak is probably so big that the pressure of the exhaust gas does not overcome the weight of the coolant and the coolant simply streams into the exhaust, being vaporized. Otherwise you would never lose a gallon or more of coolant in 45 mins.
You could also have a coolant leak though. Check if you find any little white spots which look sprayed. I had a radiator leak which became bigger and bigger until it just dripped. But before that, the pressure just sprayed it all over the place. However, it instantly vaporized, so I never saw actual fluid.
@@ApacheNL1 thank you for your reply. Actually yes I do have some white spots sprayed around, but I'm not really sure if that's a leak or it was done by me everytime I'm pooring water coolant
@@aziziilyes7 Clean the spots and see if they are back the next time you drive. Check the whole engine bay. If you got a small leak in the bottom of your radiator for example, the coolant may to places you don't see immediately. You gotta look everywhere.
NUTS AND BOLTS AUTO {""" " The coolant combustion tester/detector will only test the coolants fluids for a bad head gasket? The Coolant combustion tester/detector doesn't test if the water pump is work correctly or if the radiator and engine has rust and other chemicals in the coolant?
No, it only checks for combustion gases in the cooling system. I assume you could use the cooling system pressure tester to check the water pump pressure. The psi that the system is rated for is stated on your radiator cap. If the system isnt at that pressure, theres a problem. (See my Cooling System Pressure Tester video). There's test strips and a coolant tester as well. Those will tell you the condition of the coolant. You can also use a multimeter on your coolant to check for voltage.... Any voltage and you have bad coolant. I hope this answered your question, and thanks for watching :D
@@ApacheNL1 Hi can you talk a bit more about the process you used with the steel seal, and is it still fixed today? I know some people will follow the instructions but I've also heard other mechanics will modify the process with some good results. For instance do you leave the thermostat in? Do you leave the heater off or turn it on full heat when adding it in? Also did you flush the system after or did you just leave the steel seal in? There seem to be different schools of thought on this so just curious what yours was/is? Thanks in advance!
I tried this today(i have coolant expansion tank), and my coolant was only 1-2" down, not 2-3" like it was recomemended so that it doesnt mix with coolant and contaminate test fluid when you start squeezing, and after only couple of squeezes, all my blue stuff when into the coolant. Is that because it was not enough empty space between, so it sucked my test fluid inside the coolant tank, or my block tester is not good? Also, now this tester fluid is inside my coolant. Is that bad for coolant system? I mean, its small amount of fluid, but i dont know if it have some checmical that's bad to be inside coolant system?
So I just literally did this on my girls 7th gen civic and the fluid turned yellow then it turned blue again. What's up with that? Does the fluid turn back blue one it stops detecting exhaust gas?
I had a problem and wonder if anyone can explain l. I drive an infiniti g35x, 2006. I siphoned around 3 inches below the radiator cap and tried the test and it sucked up radiator fluid immedietly. It rose up immedietly after starting engine. So i disconnected that little hose to see if that would help. I started the test and roughly 60-80 seconds of pumping later it started sucking up radiator fluid. Im scared that 60-80 seconds wasnt enough time to get an accurate read and i dont know why the fluid rises unless its just the heat
FYI... it won't always turn as yellow as in this video. I did it and it turned greenish. So be aware. And yes I tested it on the exhaust pipe and got the EXACT same results.
Your the third person that's commented it turned yellow in the video, but in the video it is clearly a greenish muck. Watch again at 5:50 and compare that fluid to pond algae. Then compare it to a lemon or even urine. I only see pond algae, and I'm not color blind that I'm aware of nor do I have a bad computer screen 🤔
@@Rick-the-Swift The point of my comment was to let people know it doesn't always fully change into a color like it did in this video. This guy had a bad leak, mine did not.
Ford Ranger 3.0 huh? Been there done that! 3 Radiators, 2 Heater Cores and Long block from Ford. lol Heater core gave, about 45k RR from NAPA. Radiator gave shortly after RR. Rad from NAPA Truck started steamin out of tail pipe. On day in the AM I catch a large chooch of white cloud. Cracked head - Vulcan 3.0 Alum/Iron, Ford did the long block, new Rad as it cracked driving it to work. After the long block / rad job warranty ran out heater core goes, I just bypassed it from then, rad goes out slow leak that got more and more noticeable. I got a new Rad from 1800RAD with lifetime warranty and installed during my lunch break at work/shop in the lot. It's set off by Co
I really like how he also tested it at the exhaust pipe showing us how it works when a leak is detected.
Yes, the reason why I gave the thumbs up, because he's verifying the tester.
True even though he said it turned yellow when it was obviously green, like algae. 🤔
@@Rick-the-Swift”starting to turn yellow”
My leak detector instructions mentioned nothing about taking coolant out of the radiator to test. Tried it so many times and the coolant just flushed into the tester and ruined the test. Thanks so much for including that info!
Great video! Concise and clear instructions, and you made the liquid turn yellow as proof. Thanks for this!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for sharing your experience with this tool. Being as old as I am, I can honestly say that I hadn't seen it but once before on another UA-cam channel. But the guy never explained how it works. You did a great job of explaining and truly show it in action. 👍👍👍
Very welcome
Great video no body else explained how much antifreeze to take out before the test or that u need to wait until operating temp. Thanks so much
Great video, but you can also test it in the coolant reservoir without having to worry about coolant jumping out of the radiator
I wondered about that too, and I'm still sot sure. Aren't most reservoirs especially on older models meant to be sort of separate from the rest of the system, only capturing and releasing fluid or air when valves are opened due to pressures within the enclosed system? Could it be that you are talking about newer models where the "reservoir" is designed to withstand the pressure of the system?
@@Rick-the-Swift Nah, if the system is a closed system which all modern cars should be, theoretically if the car has been driven to reach opening temps on the thermometer to open up coolant flow, the exhaust leak should be able to be tested from the reservoir. The way he does it in the video is completely correct too.. Just make sure the car is cooled down before testing it that way
Thank you, I like how you explained everything in doing this test. This was very helpful and informative. I'm glad that it was only your radiator that was the culprit.
Nicely Done! I love the regular guy style and delivery you have. Think Ill just test mine for fun!
2007 toyota fj cruiser here. Time to test. Thank you for the clear video. Excellent job
Thank you for clearly mentioning the engine must be warm. Others don't do that.
Glad to help
Does the engine have to be warmed to the middle of the temp gauge or would it still show at 1/4 way on the temp gauge
@@darrenvogel8096 The thermostat has to open to let the gasses leave the engine circuit and move into the radiator and coolant tank. So you would first have to warm it all the way up to 90 deg c.
I've watched several video's on this subject. this is the best one. great job. He gave me the confidence to do it myself!!
Thx @ Nus and Bolts Auto, I just got my tester in today from amazon and tested immediately with promising results. My problem is i just bought a 2008 sequoia from craigs list w/ 233000 miles, I test drove it, checked cold start check steering fluid and inspected the bottom for any leaks from engine and trans, all was well until. I noticed i was loosing coolant, so i bought more and it would slowly lower in the reservoir, I did notice a leak behind the radiator where all the red coolant collects and dries out, also think the water pump may be leaking from weep hole, really that wasn't my biggest concern. I was really concerned the original owner drove with low coolant and overheated the engine and thats why they sold it. so it was a relief to run the same test and come up with good results, now I feel better about replacing the radiator and water pump with no major concerns about a head gasket. I used a suction pump to take fluid out from radiator and let the truck run idle for about 10min the radiator felt hot and temp gauge needle was in middle so i assume the thermostat is open and pumped the little ball for another 7min with solid blue color. FYI to craigslist buyers, check behind the radiator with your phone camera, when i saw this truck the front of the radiator was clean with no evidence of a leak, also got my spark plugs changed and no evidence of oil on the plugs so I'm happy.
233K miles is nothing for the Sequoia engine, if you regularly change the oil you will get double that and the Sequoia engine is not known for experiencing head gasket problems
Robb Flynn Thx for reply. The sequoia now has 257k miles and doesn’t skip a beat both engine and tranny are solid. Only issues is worn power steering hose, suspension a little rough. other than that, its a tank.
@@salguzman7840 Don't forget about changing the timing belt, it's supposed to be done every 90,000 miles although I have close to 160,000 on my 2004 Sequoia and I know it's never been changed but will get it done over the summer.
@@robbflynn4325 Hi just curious if you ever got that timing belt changed? I'm asking because I personally think it's not always necessary depending on the model. I've heard some say to change it every 60k but I wouldn't do it. I don't think I've ever changed mine on my ranger with over 180k. Why? Well, because all the other belts look fine after all those miles so why shouldn't the timing belt? I personally think unless you are a skilled DIYer it could be quite a mistake taking your vehicle and handing it over to another. There are countless nightmare stories about vehicles coming back in worse shape then they went in, even had a few myself. Plus they always find something else wrong that you never knew about or even suspected. I don't know, I just don't like the idea of taking an engine apart unless you really have to.
@Rick-the-Swift a TB change should be an easy job for any mechanic. Had mine done just for peace of mind. The old one did look in pretty good shape, but with it being an interference engine, there was no way I was taking any chances. Won't be in such a rush to get it done again, though.
This was a really useful video, including a cross check to prove that the detector fluid actually works at the tailpipe.
Excellent video, good, clear, complete instructions and you created understanding. Thank you!
EDIT: I ran the test today, and all is GOOD! Whew! I did not want to replace a head gasket. NOTE: if all is tight and right, once you pull a vacuum on the radiator, it's very difficult to get any more bubbles. Revving the engine seems to give a little more, but the test took a long time to run since I just wasn't getting bubbles. I wanted to get as good a test as possible.
VERY well explained !! Many details that other UA-camrs don't give... Thank You very much!!!
You're welcome!
This! I wish all tutorials on UA-cam were this concise and direct!!! And he didn't feel the need to point the camera in his face and say "what's up guys!" With thug rap in the background!
Nice and detailed video liked the end part too with the exhaust to show how it would work if exhaust combustion
Glad I researched about this. Will be a big help finding out what I need to. Thanks man!
Thank You! My take-aways; lower coolant first, engine hot, 1 minute test, then check at exhaust!
Dang i should have picked up this tester. I purchased a different brand, and it didn't come with the hand pump--it came with a vacuum line hose. What a pain! I'm returning it I think. Excellent video and I really like how you did the exhaust test at the end as proof of test.
Advanced auto? Lol
Great video, memory refresher! Thanks! Blue results (with a leak) could also mean a seeping intake gasket, and rule out a bad head gasket.
How do you check intake gaskets
@@caffrey9 Spray starter fluid around them and see if the engine stumbles.
Broski this video is so dope! Well executed and explained 👍🏼thank u so much..much appreciated
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Thank you. Do you know if a combustion leak test is the same as what mechanics call a "block" test?
Awesome video, you explained everything in detail, plus some. Thanks
Great method to double check the exhaust
Thanks for the video.
One question. How is the used test fluid disposed of correctly?
Many thanks.
All you have to do is remove it from the radiator and suck fresh air through. The liquid will go back to blue and can be re-used!
No one ever seems to share that little secret. Use it as weed killer maybe? 🤷♂
What if it tests ok but you still get a sweet smell from exhaust on start up?
My guess is you've got a leak or maybe just a reservoir cap open or cracked. Curious, have you've resolved the issue by now?
Great videomate clear concise instructions!! Well done!!
I tried testing my civic, but it doesn't suck air into the tester just the first time. Any idea why?
You probably had the squeezy thingy upside down. It's easy to get it backwards.
Great explanation, do you have to bleed the system after doing the test?
No, you shouldnt have to bleed your coolant system as long as there's a good coolant level in your radiator. Only 2-3" of clearance is needed for the test. Just top off your coolant afterward.
I thought you had to do this test on a hot system to ensure exhaust gases are present? Exhaust gases can dissipate during a cold soak.
He explains in the video you have to wait until it reaches operating temp.
Totally awesome video. Learned something new. Thanks dude!!
Fantastic video! Thank you for your help!
In my case it’s a very subtle leak. Customers says at times he can drive a hundred miles and not loose coolant then all of the sudden it loose enough for the car to overheat. When I did the test the color remain blue but you can see yellow tint in on top of the foaming as it bubbles when you press the bulb. The test fluid remain blue but with a different hue of blue from original color. I pressure test it but it holds pressure for a long time. It looses one PSI in about 20 minutes. I don’t see any visible leak even when I pressure test so it has to be the cylinder head
idk how this video doesnt have many likes!! its soo interesting 👍😀
Great video man, clear and concise. No BS.
So i made my test wrong! Now i know it. Thank you so much! (It actually sucked coolant on both cars i have tried. The blue liquid stayed on top of the yellow-orange coolant and never changed color. I would bet it's still fine, but i'll do the test differently tomorrow just to be sure)
My leak detector didn't say whether to do the test cold or hot. I wanted to do it hot but when coolant flows through my radiator it splashes up into the tester and ruins the test. I thought at first it was splashing because of bubbles but I think its because my radiator has a top flow outlet hose that is mounted very high, slightly higher than the cap. so anyway, I did the test on a warm engine and it was negative, and I was also able to get about 5 pumps after the thermostat opened and it was still blue so hopefully it was accurate.
What about with a Prius. I feel like it has such a strong pressurization at the reservoir that the bulb won’t allow you to get any exhaust up into it lol
Thanks for your video I have the same problem going to be on my 3 radiator. Did the 3rd radiator worked?
Could you just remove the thermostat to speed up the process and eliminate the coolant expansion issue ?
Sure but it seems like a lot more work than just sucking a little juice out and waiting 5 minutes for the engine to warm up doesn't it? And good luck getting those hoses off and back on without doing damage to yourself or the vehicle would be my next thought.
Excellent explanation. Thank you.
Did you tell them once it's at operating temp to turn the heater on full to give them the 60 seconds? If you don't open it you will NOT have 60 seconds.
Tried this and it started to suck up coolant into the testee. i guess i am supposed to drain the coolant a bit?
Same problem did you ever figure this out?
Need to get this tester because i'm losing coolant but have ZERO signs of a leak. the coolant gets stuck in the reservoid and not gets sucked back into the engine. but it will overheat on me JUST ONCE this year.
Very nice tutorial, thank you & keep motorin'.
I gotta say, very, very good video. I was hoping to figure out what to do if the suction bulb has gone missing but you still have the box and everything! If you read this and have an idea, please reply. Thanks.
That's a tough one. Seeing as the kit is only $30, I'd say to just buy a replacement. You can TRY using one of these: amzn.to/3uZhhwT. That type of suction pump may be able to fit inside the tool. I can't say for sure, though.
@@NutsandBoltsAuto Thanks for the reply. Here's my workaround solution: used small diameter rubber hose and stuffed into top of test kit; I turned on my shop vacuum and held the other end of the rubber hose just close enough to the vacuum hose to get bubbles flowing; pinch off small rubber hose to adjust amount of vacuum. Oh and yes, dye turned yellow. :-(
Thanks, very helpful video. You explain things well.
if possible, would you recommend using all water in the radiator?
Good question. I doubt it because the test only tests air. If it turns positive when testing fumes from the exhaust, seems like it ought to test positive if those fumes came through water first. Seems like a lot of hassle unless you are maybe super flushing your system anyway and were already planning on going 100% h2o for the flush.
You where differently on the right one thing is that idle at temp will show a false reading take for a drive under a load and retest it has happened to me all signs point to head gasket but at temp idle no gas present after the test drive user load gas was present
But do you leave your radiator cap off? I'd think you'd have to, or it would spit when u pulled back in to do the test. Is it ok to drive short distance with no cap?
Just tried it thankfully my head is fine so thanks a lot
So if Thermostat is faulty and stuck closed would the test not work , would only be hot water in expansion or radiator?????
Just so you know, the Maddox kit at Harbor Freight DOES NOT come with the test fluid. Oddly it is sold separately.
Same at AutoZone. But they will loan you the tool.
@@HusaCreature I just got the tool and fluid at the same time. CHING CHING!!!
So how come every place doesn't show the list of things that make up the fluid.... Coolant they show the back lable, oil... But block tester you have to buy it to see the back... What is it made of stuff easier to get without spending as much....
You don't even really need the kit to test either just a way to get coolant from the system into a container with the block tester fluid....
Great job, keep new vids coming
If it does turn yellow, how do u know if its the gasket, block or cracked head? My car is spitting coolant out the reservoir and boiling. Plus the oil filler cap has a milkshake looking substance on the bottom.
Follow it up with a Leak Down Test. You would need the tool and a compressor. Apply air pressure into the cylinders one at a time. Then search for the leak.
So how’s everything now? Did the replacement radiator work as you suggested, or was there more?
I replaced the radiator and all has been well so far. I have the video on that, too. Thanks for commenting 👍
I have either an exhaust leak or a valve tick....can i use this where i suspect the exhaust manifold is leaking to find if i do have a leak or not? I would imagine this would work
i only get a few squeezes of the bulb and it pretty much quits expanding. i assume that is because i don't have a leak or at least not much of one. i waited with the bulb colapsed for over a minute and no change, no air flow through the tester.
That's the same thing that happened to me, and I was looking to find an answer why. I haven't yet.
What would happen if the test fluid gets mixed with the antifreeze?
Awesome video. Thank you.
So if it's turn yellow from exhaust -thats normal? I had blue on my coolant reservoir, but yellow on exhaust pipe!?
I bought one of these, but when i press the bulb it stays flat. I can't pump it. Any suggestions?
Thanks. So. It you’ve a thermostat stuck closed. The test cannot be done yes. Tanks
Thanks for posting!!
Clear instruction thank you !!!
i’m trying to test this on my hyundai elantra, coolant just keeps getting sucked into the tube, do i have to completely empty the coolant reservoir? it just keeps going up no matter what...
You should remove enough coolant to allow 1 minute to use the tester. Stop if you notice the fluid level rising in the tester. This means you're sucking in coolant, and you need to start over.
I'm having same problem with my 99 outback. Keeps sucking in fluid. I will have to figure something out.
@@goldstandard7406 Did anyone ever figure this out? I'm having the same problem. Do you have to empty out the whole reservoir?
No, never run with no coolant. Yo will need to take some out. Have a helper making sure you don't run to hot.
#1) The block tester I borrowed from O'Reilly (from EverTough) warns in the enclosed a paper from the manufacturer to NOT USE ON DIESELS. (Luckily I have a gas engine.
#2) After removing the antifreeze from the top of the radiator ( giving me 2" of air space I sucked the tester 6-7 times with the engine ideling at about 700 rpm. Like you said you only have ab
Thx Bud. Looks like my engines good.
In the harbor freight manual it says yellow for gas engines and green for diesel. Mine turned green on a gas engine. What the heck does that mean?
What if the leak is going out the exhaust? What's the test for that?
Thanks for the video, and God bless you!
What if my fluid stayed blue at first but several days to a week later that same fluid I left in a cup ended up with a layer of yellow/green on top?
The test fluid changes color when it reacts with CO2. Your fluid was probably left to the open air which contains...guess what?
I had a couple of bad head gasket symptoms. Pressure in the radiator overnight when cool. Reservoir getting overfilled. So I got together all the parts, went to get coolant, and the radiator burst. So I got a new radiator, and the reservoir is actually dropping a tiny bit after it cools now. So i get this tester and the color doesn't change, so great then. But I held it up to my exhaust, and the color still didn't change. So that was a waste. What could I be doing wrong?
Fantastic video
What if you don't have a radiator with a cap? Can I do it on the reservoir
Great Video! I'm thinking if you pulled your thermostat out you can test right away, correct?
Let's see, removing a thermostat at best might be a 20 min. job. Then you would have to re-install it (another 20 min. job at best) plus buy a new gasket. Why not just wait 20 min. for the vehicle to warm up to save time & money????
@@slayer5813 some people are just not that bright, and are trying to reinvent the wheel at all times.
Re invent the wheel!
I used a combustion leak detector that turned yellow. My radiator is leaking from the actual radiator. Can this create a false positive?
Great video dude! Thank you.
I'm loosing all my coolant super fast in about 45min of driving without seeing any drops on the floor or around the engine. I took my car to the Honda dealership in my country and they said that I have a blown head gasket.
The day after, a friend of me did this test for my car and it didn't turn out yellow which got me so confused and couldn't understand who's the right and who's not.
Can you assist with this ASAP please
The test tests if exhaust gasses get into the coolant. So the coolant stays in.
In your case it may be the opposite: the coolant goes into the exhaust and the pressure of the coolant is higher than the exhaust, so you lose the coolant.
The headgasket leak is probably so big that the pressure of the exhaust gas does not overcome the weight of the coolant and the coolant simply streams into the exhaust, being vaporized. Otherwise you would never lose a gallon or more of coolant in 45 mins.
You could also have a coolant leak though. Check if you find any little white spots which look sprayed. I had a radiator leak which became bigger and bigger until it just dripped. But before that, the pressure just sprayed it all over the place. However, it instantly vaporized, so I never saw actual fluid.
@@ApacheNL1 thank you for your reply. Actually yes I do have some white spots sprayed around, but I'm not really sure if that's a leak or it was done by me everytime I'm pooring water coolant
@@aziziilyes7 Clean the spots and see if they are back the next time you drive. Check the whole engine bay. If you got a small leak in the bottom of your radiator for example, the coolant may to places you don't see immediately. You gotta look everywhere.
By the way you should definitely see white smoke if you lose this much coolant through the exhaust. And a coolant smell.
NUTS AND BOLTS AUTO
{""" " The coolant combustion tester/detector will only test the coolants fluids for a bad head gasket?
The Coolant combustion tester/detector doesn't test if the water pump is work correctly or if the radiator and engine has rust and other chemicals in the coolant?
No, it only checks for combustion gases in the cooling system. I assume you could use the cooling system pressure tester to check the water pump pressure. The psi that the system is rated for is stated on your radiator cap. If the system isnt at that pressure, theres a problem. (See my Cooling System Pressure Tester video).
There's test strips and a coolant tester as well. Those will tell you the condition of the coolant. You can also use a multimeter on your coolant to check for voltage.... Any voltage and you have bad coolant.
I hope this answered your question, and thanks for watching :D
Bro need help.. i did you test and same thing happened.. no yellow on radiator test
. But yellow on exhaust pipe, does it mean i have bqd head gasket?
No. I put the tester in the exhaust to simulate exhaust gases inside the cooling system.
I am honest to god terrified yo do this test because I really do not want to get rid of my truck
I had this problem and solved it with steel seal. Saved thousands of bucks with liquid chemicals.
@@ApacheNL1 Hi can you talk a bit more about the process you used with the steel seal, and is it still fixed today?
I know some people will follow the instructions but I've also heard other mechanics will modify the process with some good results. For instance do you leave the thermostat in? Do you leave the heater off or turn it on full heat when adding it in? Also did you flush the system after or did you just leave the steel seal in? There seem to be different schools of thought on this so just curious what yours was/is? Thanks in advance!
@@Rick-the-Swift Unfortunately the solution didn't last long. It's a temporary fix.
What do I do with the coolant that was sucked out am I able to put it back ?
I'm impressed 👏
very good video, even more helpful than scottys video lol thanks alot
Will this work on a very early/minor leak????
Clear video. Thanks.
Can I use this in overflow tank?
I tried this today(i have coolant expansion tank), and my coolant was only 1-2" down, not 2-3" like it was recomemended so that it doesnt mix with coolant and contaminate test fluid when you start squeezing, and after only couple of squeezes, all my blue stuff when into the coolant. Is that because it was not enough empty space between, so it sucked my test fluid inside the coolant tank, or my block tester is not good? Also, now this tester fluid is inside my coolant. Is that bad for coolant system? I mean, its small amount of fluid, but i dont know if it have some checmical that's bad to be inside coolant system?
So I just literally did this on my girls 7th gen civic and the fluid turned yellow then it turned blue again. What's up with that? Does the fluid turn back blue one it stops detecting exhaust gas?
Thanks for your Video
Do you have to disable the thermostat when doing this test?
No, the thermostat will open when your vehicle reaches operating temperature.
Does this also with testing from the expansion tank? My cars radiator doesn't have a cap.
Yes this test uses the same principle on the expansion tank. Just make sure it has a good seal on the opening of the tank.
I had a problem and wonder if anyone can explain l. I drive an infiniti g35x, 2006. I siphoned around 3 inches below the radiator cap and tried the test and it sucked up radiator fluid immedietly. It rose up immedietly after starting engine. So i disconnected that little hose to see if that would help. I started the test and roughly 60-80 seconds of pumping later it started sucking up radiator fluid. Im scared that 60-80 seconds wasnt enough time to get an accurate read and i dont know why the fluid rises unless its just the heat
Great vid!
Thanks man you’re awesome!
Great video!
FYI... it won't always turn as yellow as in this video. I did it and it turned greenish. So be aware. And yes I tested it on the exhaust pipe and got the EXACT same results.
Your the third person that's commented it turned yellow in the video, but in the video it is clearly a greenish muck. Watch again at 5:50 and compare that fluid to pond algae. Then compare it to a lemon or even urine. I only see pond algae, and I'm not color blind that I'm aware of nor do I have a bad computer screen 🤔
@@Rick-the-Swift The point of my comment was to let people know it doesn't always fully change into a color like it did in this video. This guy had a bad leak, mine did not.
Ford Ranger 3.0 huh? Been there done that!
3 Radiators, 2 Heater Cores and Long block from Ford. lol
Heater core gave, about 45k RR from NAPA.
Radiator gave shortly after RR. Rad from NAPA
Truck started steamin out of tail pipe. On day in the AM I catch a large chooch of white cloud.
Cracked head - Vulcan 3.0 Alum/Iron, Ford did the long block, new Rad as it cracked driving it to work.
After the long block / rad job warranty ran out heater core goes, I just bypassed it from then, rad goes out slow leak that got more and more noticeable. I got a new Rad from 1800RAD with lifetime warranty and installed during my lunch break at work/shop in the lot.
It's set off by Co