It took me a bit to get my corner tip sound to replicate yours, but once I got it my tips came out great. I have since discovered that If take it up an octave you can cut your sharpening time in half (grin)! Seriously, thank you very much for taking the time. I am a sharpening newbie and your well done video was extremely helpful.
I initially talked to a professional knife sharpener who is local to me and sharpens all the culinary knives from the high end restaurants. I thought I would be able to rely on him to sharpen my knives as needed. As it turns out, he takes an indefinite period of time to sharpen and is not used to sharpening folding knives. As a result, I found your videos and am now able to sharpen my own knives. Your whole series of videos about sharpening with the KME system is great. You present the info. in a way that makes it easy to learn. I bought the basic kit and am slowly adding to it. Thanks -
One of the best videos out there on this style of knife sharpeners. Will be relevant for many years to come. The most important part of the video for me was not even about the tip. I could not figure out why some of my knives had a larger bevel on one side than the other, which just happened to always be the first side I profiled. I would just go, go, go until I started getting a bur. Now it all makes since. I need to switch the sides back and forth when re-profiling with the first stone to prevent taking off too much material on the first side. Thanks!
I’ve never sharpened a knife before and I just ordered a KME kit. Along with that order, I placed another order for 3 inexpensive knives for me to practice on. I’m definitely not going to start out on my $300+ knives. Great tips, man. Thank you for making all of these awesome videos. You’re making things a whole lot easier for us noobs.
Just did the exact same thing and KnifeKrazy, your videos are really teaching me a lot about sharpening and I'm looking forward to practicing on my Walmart knives!
Just got my KME today. Did one practice knife and then jumped right in to working on my EDC (Kershaw dividend)....came out pretty good, but will probably want to go over it again after I practice on a few more inexpensive knives.....
I kinda figured this out on my own about picking the stone holder up on it's edge and rocking just cause it seemed to make sense . Great video! I guarantee this helped allot of people
Completed my first real job with my new KME. I got the basic kit and the base, then ordered the 6 and 3 micron lapping films. Got a mirrored edge on my Shaman, s30v. I just instinctively used a more sweeping motion at the curve and tip. Like you showed, simply continuing using up and down strokes will miss a lot of the edge.
What I found is that when you grip the stone holder by the center of its spine, I really get a good feeling of how that stone rotates as it goes across the curve towards the tip. The extension knob just doesn't give the same feeling. It's kind of a zen thing.
This is great advice imho after using a fixed angled sharpener for 3 years now those are all the good points to be aware of . We all find a way that works for us eventually . I m personally not coming off the first stone until the blade looks how I want ending with long full light sweeps . I’m using the Hapstone rs with the magnet now and both diamonds and Venev but never together .
Awesome videos on the KME! You have a true teaching talent! I think I am well on the road to buying a KME system, and your videos have helped answer a lot of my questions. The last question I have is about different blade profiles and how the clamp works with those. For instance, how does it hold onto a Benchmade 940, or a Spyderco PM2. In other clamp style sharpeners, I have always had a lot of trouble getting the blade centered and not rocking with something like the FFG PM2. A video on that would be awesome...or just some of your wisdom in comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for your work!
The last thing you said about switching up sides in the beginning is so important. Before I knew this, it took me forever to get a burr, then I sharpened 10 min. on the other side and Ohh: there is a burr
Awesome videos! My KME is in the mail, feeling much more confident after watching several of your vids. Superb knowledge coming from experience! Keep up the good work. Thanks
Appreciate your interesting very helpful videos. Great job teaching each lesson in common sense practical knowledge. Some videos on Utube it's like come on dude speed it up I get it I get it but you go at the right speed and make it interesting again thank you
Eeeer Eeer 👊🏼🤣 haha I love it! Great advice brother! I’ve been sharpening for a long time and recently got a KME and all a sudden the tips are giving me a little trouble, I usually end up getting it right but these tips should save me some time! Thanks brother!
great vid. I will say I've done quite a few repair jobs on customers who though doing it faster was better and pulled out the 50Grit. 50 Grit really should only be used for repair, not reprofile.
The wicked edge is faster.. But its definitely not better. When you grind both sides at once, you're removing material instead of just stopping when a bevel forms. Obviously you're going to take a long time to destroy a knife but you will definitely get more life out of a blade if you use a KME. Not to mention 1/3 the cost.
@@robhimself79 cant you just use the system how you prefer, working one side at a time to form a burr and then lightly strop with both sides to clean up the apex, I dont have either system and I think the wicked edge is overpriced but I can definitely see the advantage of the WE,
@@robhimself79 the advantage I see is when you're doing a blade that doesn't have perfect flats you can micro adjust the arms for each side so that even if the knife isn't clamped evenly you can still get a precise even bevel on both sides, on the kme when you flip the blade one angle could be different. Although it seems like it would be easier with the kme to precisely work on area of the knife.
I thought I was screwing up a new spyderco manix 2, because the sides were so uneven on the sharpener. I kept at it and it turned out even, and sharper than it was out of the box
Wish you would make a specific video on, precise knife to clamp alignment. Is it better to setup the clamp straight along the main edge and deal with the tip curve, or clamp at the actual tip to heel angle?
Brian, funny I come across this video now. About 3 weeks ago I took a new small pocket knife that was given to me and I used it to open a plastic bag of zip ties. It would not do it as easily as it should. Then I took another knife I had and it slit it easily. This really bugged me so I took all the zip ties out and used that bag as an experiment to see what knives I had that would slit that bag with just a bit of pressure using a slicing motion just using the tip area of the knife. Only several of my knives passed and about two-thirds failed. Even some of the ones that passed were borderline. To make a LONG story short, I could not really get the tip correct using the sharpeners I had before I got the KME. When I got the KME I did some practicing on that very small knife that wouldn't slice and a Spyderco Military that wouldn't either. The small was better but did not pass but the Spyderco really passed. Then I did an expensive custom neck knife that was borderline in slicing. Even after the KME it was borderline. THEN, even before seeing this video I redid the tip area really focussing how I stroked the tip area of the blade and then the knife passed. Two of my new Mora knives that are very sharp failed on my slice test. I just redid one on the KME and now it slices easily on the bag with just a bit of pressure to do it. Your video here should be a MUST WATCH for all sharpeners on various sharpeners. Thanks very much!.
@@KnifeKrazy. I'm very sorry, Matt. There's a guy with KME named Brian and thought you were that person. Regardless, I gave you a sub and watch your videos. You're a wealth of information. I'm smart enough to know that I'm still at the beginning stages of this even though I sharpened knives and see there is much to learn yet with experience and gaining more knowledge. I've already done a knife with an uneven bevel as you explained because I went too hard on one side trying to get the burr before switching sides. Thanks.
@@KnifeKrazy. Glad you straightened that out. You both kind of sound the same and your format is similar. That's a compliment to you both. Sure thankful for both of you guys. You're very good at what you do.
Best advice of this video is when reprofiling work both sides at the lowest grit until you get a bur. with these high wear resistance steels this can take a long time. I lost always start with the beast (50 grit). 2nd best advice is say the eerrrp at the tip. LOL!!
i like the sound effects. ...boop. lol. im going to buy this system tomorrow, i have the lansky now and i want something a bit more precise as i am sharpening friends knives and want to do the best job i can. im pretty good at the tip but i def know how people can have problems with it
Dang dude . I was just going to say I do t always a get a burr on the first side sometimes but I flip anyways because common sense told me and they ve all turned out great . I noticed it happens with the Venev stones a lot
hey knifekrazy Can you explain a problem that is similar? I often sharpen with the kme, blade shade drop point. The straight grind from the handle looks always even but mostly the tip and the belly has a more wider angle as the other part. I clamp it in the middle at about 20° and when i sharpen, from the middle to the handle it's even, but from the middle to the tip it, especially where the belly to the tip begins, it always looks like it has 15° instead of 20°, the belly is often very wide. Do I clamp it in false? or should it be clamped it more to the tip? I had problems to sharpen a Microtech ultratech S/E, the belly to the tip was far wider like the rest of the blade.
If that is happening, it is definitely the blade placement in the jaw. Check out my Video on KME Blade Placement. This should answer your questions. Thanks for watching
Really good info as always. Maybe you can do a video on sharpening the heel as well. I asked this a lot in other channels as well but never got a response...I get knives that have a really thick heel and I find it hard to sharpen with the kme (only the sides of the stone touch the blade when i'm at the hell resulting in small recurves or some other damage). One thing im currently doing is take a diamond file and try to even the heel with the rest of the blade before starting sharpening but i'm doing this only on cheap knives like the ganzo... you can go really wrong with a file .. heh... Thanks
I know exactly what you are talking about. Yes, thick Heels are a problem. All knives should have a finger choil or a sharpening choil. If you can, add a sharpening choil to the blade. If not, this is something you have to work through(like with a file or something).Be careful working the stone in one spot too long it will cause a flat spot or like you said a recurve type thing. Like in the Spyderco Paramilitary 2. It needs a sharpening choil badly. Thanks for watching
KnifeKrazy thanks man. I'm thinking in investing in a worksharp with the grinder attachment and first properly grind the blade then sharpen with the kme. Anyway... I see I'm not alone with this problem hahah. Thanks again for sharing your tips.
If you don’t establish the burr with the low grit stone. You will never get a burr on the high grit. Let the low grit stones do the work it’s meant to do. Save the fine grit stones for the finish work. First stone is the most important stone if you want a sharp knife. If you don’t care about the sharpness and only care about the mirror. Then it doesn’t matter. That being said. You are free to sharpen anyway you like.
I'm not doubting what you're saying about the importance of setting your angle but when reprofiling, do you ever use a super low grit like the 50 to knock of most of a shoulder and then step up to a higher grit once you get newer the apex? I guess you would want to use a sharper to make sure you are approaching the apex evenly along the blade.
What about the heel? I’m having a lot of trouble getting the heel sharp on a lot of my blades. Not just a specific brand or grind I’m talking most of the knives I’ve done the last 3/8 inch will sharpen on the 50 grit then the other grits will not clean up the scrapes
Great video as usual. I recently picked up a KME and have been getting.snail trails from accidentally running the stone carrier up on to the blade. What is the collar stop you have on your guide rod? I remember seeing you answer this question before but can't for the life of me find it back.
Hey Matt, Matt here I just ordered the KME and see a lot of people saying kitchen knives will be difficult. Do you have any vids doing kitchen knives or longer knives? Also what addons should I go for I got the 224 dollar version
I’ve never had a problem doing kitchen knives. If you have a long thin blade. It can flex in the clamp. I can’t remember if I’ve done a kitchen knife on video. I’m not sure what you need to spend your money on. Just depends on what you are wanting out of the KME.
Good information Matt. Many times we read in our instruction book (no matter what sharpener) to achieve the burr on one side before moving to the other side and we go severely uneven trying to be right with instructions we've read. Breaking it up to both sides makes good sense when doing heavy work on the profile. When a brand new knife comes with a very uneven grind and needs work do you usually start with the narrow side first to begin evening out the grind to achieve the results you want?
Grant, pretty sure he didn’t bother with alignment you describe because he was focussed on just one aspect of sharpening. Additionally, that heel to tip alignment is ideal, but it doesn’t make a huge difference on most knives. If there’s a ‘flat’ portion (as there is in the knife in the video) to clamp to, it’s better to clamp on this securely, than to worry about the ‘heel to tip alignment. I used to be obsessed with that alignment and now have sharpened quite few (Benchmades And Spyderco knives) where I did not worry about it and I can’t observe any problems with the edge. With say, a 940, there’s really only a small portion to clamp to and with Spyderco PM2, I clamped so I could grind off the ugly, unsharpened bit near the ricasso (heel)- so theoretically, the tip will have a lower angle than the heel. Even at 12 dps, it all looks even.
Quick KME question for you Matt. I haven't heard you mention it in any of your videos and its not listed in the literature that came with my KME. But how do you clean your stock diamond stones? Is a scrub brush with dish soap and water ok?
I made the mistake of working one side too much. I always heard not to move move on until you feel a burr haha. I have a question about microbevels. Do you put micro bevels on your blades and how do achieve one on the KME?
I do not do micro bevels. How you do it is, Sharpen like you always do. Then when you're done, Raise the angle 2-3 degrees and sharpen with the high grits only.
It took me a bit to get my corner tip sound to replicate yours, but once I got it my tips came out great. I have since discovered that If take it up an octave you can cut your sharpening time in half (grin)! Seriously, thank you very much for taking the time. I am a sharpening newbie and your well done video was extremely helpful.
I initially talked to a professional knife sharpener who is local to me and sharpens all the culinary knives from the high end restaurants. I thought I would be able to rely on him to sharpen my knives as needed. As it turns out, he takes an indefinite period of time to sharpen and is not used to sharpening folding knives. As a result, I found your videos and am now able to sharpen my own knives. Your whole series of videos about sharpening with the KME system is great. You present the info. in a way that makes it easy to learn. I bought the basic kit and am slowly adding to it. Thanks -
Thank for the kind words. I’m glad I can help.
One of the best videos out there on this style of knife sharpeners. Will be relevant for many years to come. The most important part of the video for me was not even about the tip. I could not figure out why some of my knives had a larger bevel on one side than the other, which just happened to always be the first side I profiled. I would just go, go, go until I started getting a bur. Now it all makes since. I need to switch the sides back and forth when re-profiling with the first stone to prevent taking off too much material on the first side. Thanks!
Thank you.
I’ve never sharpened a knife before and I just ordered a KME kit.
Along with that order, I placed another order for 3 inexpensive knives for me to practice on. I’m definitely not going to start out on my $300+ knives.
Great tips, man. Thank you for making all of these awesome videos. You’re making things a whole lot easier for us noobs.
Thats what I plan on doing. Im going to look at local pawn shop and stuff and see if I can find old cheap used knives to practice on.
Just did the exact same thing and KnifeKrazy, your videos are really teaching me a lot about sharpening and I'm looking forward to practicing on my Walmart knives!
Just got my KME today. Did one practice knife and then jumped right in to working on my EDC (Kershaw dividend)....came out pretty good, but will probably want to go over it again after I practice on a few more inexpensive knives.....
I kinda figured this out on my own about picking the stone holder up on it's edge and rocking just cause it seemed to make sense . Great video! I guarantee this helped allot of people
Completed my first real job with my new KME. I got the basic kit and the base, then ordered the 6 and 3 micron lapping films. Got a mirrored edge on my Shaman, s30v. I just instinctively used a more sweeping motion at the curve and tip. Like you showed, simply continuing using up and down strokes will miss a lot of the edge.
Yeah sweeping motion for me from back to front going up and tip to butt going down with extra special attention to the tip .
my wife works the tip with twisting action, and she never forgets about the base :)
I jacked up some nice knives while learning the KME, and this video would have saved me a lot of heartache! Nice vid!
Tried to show this video to my wife, she didn't appreciate it.
😂😂
What I found is that when you grip the stone holder by the center of its spine, I really get a good feeling of how that stone rotates as it goes across the curve towards the tip. The extension knob just doesn't give the same feeling. It's kind of a zen thing.
Very informative video buddy. I have the Worksharp guided sharpener now but I'm gonna buy the KME. THANKS MATT.
Thanks for making this, helped out a lot.
This is great advice imho after using a fixed angled sharpener for 3 years now those are all the good points to be aware of . We all find a way that works for us eventually . I m personally not coming off the first stone until the blade looks how I want ending with long full light sweeps . I’m using the Hapstone rs with the magnet now and both diamonds and Venev but never together .
That sound made me laugh 😂
Thanks for the great video !
Lol. Thanks
Really well done video Matt. Thanks for the tip.
Thank you
Awesome videos on the KME! You have a true teaching talent!
I think I am well on the road to buying a KME system, and your videos have helped answer a lot of my questions. The last question I have is about different blade profiles and how the clamp works with those. For instance, how does it hold onto a Benchmade 940, or a Spyderco PM2. In other clamp style sharpeners, I have always had a lot of trouble getting the blade centered and not rocking with something like the FFG PM2. A video on that would be awesome...or just some of your wisdom in comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for your work!
Thank you. I've never had any problem with FFG blades in the KME.
The last thing you said about switching up sides in the beginning is so important. Before I knew this, it took me forever to get a burr, then I sharpened 10 min. on the other side and Ohh: there is a burr
Awesome videos! My KME is in the mail, feeling much more confident after watching several of your vids. Superb knowledge coming from experience! Keep up the good work. Thanks
Thank you.
good job matt, you've explained it well. i've learned a couple of important things there.
Thank you
Thank you mister! Thats the «tip» i was looking for 👍
Appreciate your interesting very helpful videos. Great job teaching each lesson in common sense practical knowledge. Some videos on Utube it's like come on dude speed it up I get it I get it but you go at the right speed and make it interesting again thank you
Thank you very much. I appreciate it.
excellent video Matt! I'll definitely be linking this video down the road, lots of questions about getting the tip right.
Thank you sir.
Ert ert! lol I'm dying 😂 Great video. I think I'm ready to buy a KME now. 🤞🏻
Lol. Thanks
1:20 to 1:42 is great advice about "the tip"
Eeeer Eeer 👊🏼🤣 haha I love it! Great advice brother! I’ve been sharpening for a long time and recently got a KME and all a sudden the tips are giving me a little trouble, I usually end up getting it right but these tips should save me some time! Thanks brother!
Really good video! Lots of helpful information. Thanks.
Thank you
Love the sound effect, lol.
Thanks. LOL
Thanks for a great video, really helpful.
Awesome job Matt, I've referred several people to this video who have done all the wrong things you have listed!
Thank you.
Thanks for the video
Sweeping motions! Great tip on the tip!!
Great video!! U and frankie, from birdshot, would get along famously with all those sound effects. "Grindy grindy grindy." 😂
This whole video is a, "That's what she said" goldmine!🤣
lol
And remember to make those sound effects when working the tip. Boop boop, err err, eek eek.
Lol. Thanks for watching.
Shouldn't have watched this at work...started cracking up!!
lol. I made my own self laugh. Thanks for watching
Stayed for the knowledge, but definitely had to give a like for the sound effects. Eerp.
Lol. Thanks.
great vid. I will say I've done quite a few repair jobs on customers who though doing it faster was better and pulled out the 50Grit. 50 Grit really should only be used for repair, not reprofile.
My neighbor just bought a Wicked Edge, after he saw my KME the man understand how he got screwed with the price, is returning it,
Rico Suave lol from what I know the wicked edge is actually a little bit better of a system at least with the 130 but the price is not justified
The wicked edge is faster.. But its definitely not better. When you grind both sides at once, you're removing material instead of just stopping when a bevel forms. Obviously you're going to take a long time to destroy a knife but you will definitely get more life out of a blade if you use a KME. Not to mention 1/3 the cost.
@@robhimself79 cant you just use the system how you prefer, working one side at a time to form a burr and then lightly strop with both sides to clean up the apex, I dont have either system and I think the wicked edge is overpriced but I can definitely see the advantage of the WE,
@@r2d2skate you can use one side at a time but then you're just doing what a KME does for three times the cost.
@@robhimself79 the advantage I see is when you're doing a blade that doesn't have perfect flats you can micro adjust the arms for each side so that even if the knife isn't clamped evenly you can still get a precise even bevel on both sides, on the kme when you flip the blade one angle could be different. Although it seems like it would be easier with the kme to precisely work on area of the knife.
appreciate the tip tip
Agree with video, but feel like it boils down to a few words. Manage contact patch of stone to blade as you grind.
I thought I was screwing up a new spyderco manix 2, because the sides were so uneven on the sharpener. I kept at it and it turned out even, and sharper than it was out of the box
Why can’t you compromise and put the knive in the clamp to where the tip is outward and the base inward enough to balance it? Just an idea.
It changes the angle as it gets to the tip. That’s why most people have issues with the tip.
Thanks man! You just help me out alot!
Came for the knives, staying for the "eee eee"
Lol
Very helpful. I've been doing the wrong sound effects!
Lol.
Wish you would make a specific video on, precise knife to clamp alignment.
Is it better to setup the clamp straight along the main edge and deal with the tip curve, or clamp at the actual tip to heel angle?
Like the “eh eh” sound
just here for the squeak
Nice! Also including the "explanatory sounds" you make :)
Lol. Thanks
Brian, funny I come across this video now. About 3 weeks ago I took a new small pocket knife that was given to me and I used it to open a plastic bag of zip ties. It would not do it as easily as it should. Then I took another knife I had and it slit it easily. This really bugged me so I took all the zip ties out and used that bag as an experiment to see what knives I had that would slit that bag with just a bit of pressure using a slicing motion just using the tip area of the knife. Only several of my knives passed and about two-thirds failed. Even some of the ones that passed were borderline.
To make a LONG story short, I could not really get the tip correct using the sharpeners I had before I got the KME. When I got the KME I did some practicing on that very small knife that wouldn't slice and a Spyderco Military that wouldn't either. The small was better but did not pass but the Spyderco really passed. Then I did an expensive custom neck knife that was borderline in slicing. Even after the KME it was borderline. THEN, even before seeing this video I redid the tip area really focussing how I stroked the tip area of the blade and then the knife passed. Two of my new Mora knives that are very sharp failed on my slice test. I just redid one on the KME and now it slices easily on the bag with just a bit of pressure to do it.
Your video here should be a MUST WATCH for all sharpeners on various sharpeners.
Thanks very much!.
Thank you for the nice comment. FYI, my name is Matt, not Brian.
@@KnifeKrazy. I'm very sorry, Matt. There's a guy with KME named Brian and thought you were that person. Regardless, I gave you a sub and watch your videos. You're a wealth of information. I'm smart enough to know that I'm still at the beginning stages of this even though I sharpened knives and see there is much to learn yet with experience and gaining more knowledge. I've already done a knife with an uneven bevel as you explained because I went too hard on one side trying to get the burr before switching sides. Thanks.
No problem at all. I know Brian personally. His UA-cam channel is (Knifeguy)
@@KnifeKrazy. Glad you straightened that out. You both kind of sound the same and your format is similar. That's a compliment to you both. Sure thankful for both of you guys. You're very good at what you do.
Thank you
Best advice of this video is when reprofiling work both sides at the lowest grit until you get a bur. with these high wear resistance steels this can take a long time. I lost always start with the beast (50 grit). 2nd best advice is say the eerrrp at the tip. LOL!!
i like the sound effects. ...boop. lol. im going to buy this system tomorrow, i have the lansky now and i want something a bit more precise as i am sharpening friends knives and want to do the best job i can. im pretty good at the tip but i def know how people can have problems with it
Lol. Thanks. Congrats on the new KME.
Hi
You said in a previous video you should make a line heel to tip to get an even bevel the knife in this video in not lined up parrel
Great video man. Subscribed.
Thanks
Dang dude . I was just going to say I do t always a get a burr on the first side sometimes but I flip anyways because common sense told me and they ve all turned out great . I noticed it happens with the Venev stones a lot
Really great informative video thanks man!
Thanks for watching
hey knifekrazy
Can you explain a problem that is similar?
I often sharpen with the kme, blade shade drop point.
The straight grind from the handle looks always even but mostly the tip and the belly has a more wider angle as the other part.
I clamp it in the middle at about 20° and when i sharpen, from the middle to the handle it's even, but from the middle to the tip it, especially where the belly to the tip begins, it always looks like it has 15° instead of 20°, the belly is often very wide.
Do I clamp it in false? or should it be clamped it more to the tip?
I had problems to sharpen a Microtech ultratech S/E, the belly to the tip was far wider like the rest of the blade.
If that is happening, it is definitely the blade placement in the jaw. Check out my Video on KME Blade Placement. This should answer your questions. Thanks for watching
just the tip
love the info man. getting a kme soon. the only issue is that damn fly haha. i had to get up and see if it was on my tv
lol
Really good info as always. Maybe you can do a video on sharpening the heel as well. I asked this a lot in other channels as well but never got a response...I get knives that have a really thick heel and I find it hard to sharpen with the kme (only the sides of the stone touch the blade when i'm at the hell resulting in small recurves or some other damage). One thing im currently doing is take a diamond file and try to even the heel with the rest of the blade before starting sharpening but i'm doing this only on cheap knives like the ganzo... you can go really wrong with a file .. heh... Thanks
I know exactly what you are talking about. Yes, thick Heels are a problem. All knives should have a finger choil or a sharpening choil. If you can, add a sharpening choil to the blade. If not, this is something you have to work through(like with a file or something).Be careful working the stone in one spot too long it will cause a flat spot or like you said a recurve type thing. Like in the Spyderco Paramilitary 2. It needs a sharpening choil badly. Thanks for watching
KnifeKrazy thanks man. I'm thinking in investing in a worksharp with the grinder attachment and first properly grind the blade then sharpen with the kme. Anyway... I see I'm not alone with this problem hahah. Thanks again for sharing your tips.
Cheers Mate!
Thanks!
Where do I get that black knob, at the end of your stone carrier ?
McMaster-Carr
1/4”x20 Knobs
I dont chase the burr at low grit, only chase removing the sharpie. Chase the burr at finer grits.
If you don’t establish the burr with the low grit stone. You will never get a burr on the high grit. Let the low grit stones do the work it’s meant to do. Save the fine grit stones for the finish work. First stone is the most important stone if you want a sharp knife. If you don’t care about the sharpness and only care about the mirror. Then it doesn’t matter. That being said. You are free to sharpen anyway you like.
I'm not doubting what you're saying about the importance of setting your angle but when reprofiling, do you ever use a super low grit like the 50 to knock of most of a shoulder and then step up to a higher grit once you get newer the apex? I guess you would want to use a sharper to make sure you are approaching the apex evenly along the blade.
Eerp!
What about the heel? I’m having a lot of trouble getting the heel sharp on a lot of my blades. Not just a specific brand or grind I’m talking most of the knives I’ve done the last 3/8 inch will sharpen on the 50 grit then the other grits will not clean up the scrapes
"EEIIEE EEIIIEEE"
Great video as usual. I recently picked up a KME and have been getting.snail trails from accidentally running the stone carrier up on to the blade. What is the collar stop you have on your guide rod? I remember seeing you answer this question before but can't for the life of me find it back.
That collar comes in the Convexing rod kit. I don't sharpen a blade without it now. It will save your blade from mistakes. Thanks for watching
Just ordered the convex kit just for the collar, not having scratched up blades is worth the $25 all day long!
Good call. And if you ever want to sharpen a convex edge, you can.
Where can I get a piece of metal for the back of the stone holder?
You have to make it.
magnetic tape!
also gotta remember that the tip might be thicker due so how some knives are ground
Hey Matt, Matt here I just ordered the KME and see a lot of people saying kitchen knives will be difficult. Do you have any vids doing kitchen knives or longer knives? Also what addons should I go for I got the 224 dollar version
I’ve never had a problem doing kitchen knives. If you have a long thin blade. It can flex in the clamp. I can’t remember if I’ve done a kitchen knife on video. I’m not sure what you need to spend your money on. Just depends on what you are wanting out of the KME.
Good information Matt. Many times we read in our instruction book (no matter what sharpener) to achieve the burr on one side before moving to the other side and we go severely uneven trying to be right with instructions we've read. Breaking it up to both sides makes good sense when doing heavy work on the profile. When a brand new knife comes with a very uneven grind and needs work do you usually start with the narrow side first to begin evening out the grind to achieve the results you want?
Thanks Steve
Old video but I have a question for you. Where did you get the travel stop for the rod?
KME sells them on their website now.
Hello, thqnks for the tips. I just got a KME and was wondering where did you get the knob on the end of your stone holder?
McMaster-Carr
Pressed the wrong thing
Heel to toe not parallel with the jaws as you have said in a previous video. Is that right ?
Grant, pretty sure he didn’t bother with alignment you describe because he was focussed on just one aspect of sharpening.
Additionally, that heel to tip alignment is ideal, but it doesn’t make a huge difference on most knives.
If there’s a ‘flat’ portion (as there is in the knife in the video) to clamp to, it’s better to clamp on this securely, than to worry about the ‘heel to tip alignment.
I used to be obsessed with that alignment and now have sharpened quite few (Benchmades And Spyderco knives) where I did not worry about it and I can’t observe any problems with the edge.
With say, a 940, there’s really only a small portion to clamp to and with Spyderco PM2, I clamped so I could grind off the ugly, unsharpened bit near the ricasso (heel)- so theoretically, the tip will have a lower angle than the heel. Even at 12 dps, it all looks even.
Slightly rounded the tip of my police 4 last night drunkenly sharpening with the kme. Its not very pointy anymore but very slicy.
Lesson: Don’t drink and sharpen.
@@KnifeKrazy. no kidding lol. A couple sober sharpenings should bring it back to a nice point
i need one of those stops for the rod, dont see where you can get one from kme without ordering the convexing guide rod
nhojyelbom you might already have the answer but they have them available on the site for like 5 bucks
you gotta work that tip in.
Yeh babby
Quick KME question for you Matt. I haven't heard you mention it in any of your videos and its not listed in the literature that came with my KME. But how do you clean your stock diamond stones? Is a scrub brush with dish soap and water ok?
That's OK to do it that way. I use one of the big pink school erasers.
Great tip! I'll have to go pick one of those up.
I made the mistake of working one side too much. I always heard not to move move on until you feel a burr haha. I have a question about microbevels. Do you put micro bevels on your blades and how do achieve one on the KME?
I do not do micro bevels. How you do it is, Sharpen like you always do. Then when you're done, Raise the angle 2-3 degrees and sharpen with the high grits only.
If ur tip isn’t getting a burr while ur working it ... ur not doing a good job ..... I lost it .....😂
Just the tip and only for a minute
Where did you get the knob for your KME?
McMaster-Carr.com
Oval Knob 1/4"x20
Thanks
Where do I get a black knob for the end of the stone holder ?
McMaster - Carr
Search for Oval knobs. 1/4”x20
Do you have a facebook group?
No.
Boop
Just the tip