The Secrets of High Quality Saddles
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- Опубліковано 31 сер 2018
- Custom Saddle Maker Nick Pernokas reveals some of the "secrets" that go into custom, high end saddles, that salesmen won't tell you about, but you should know about anyway.(Nick's sidekick , Otie, makes a cameo appearance)
- Фільми й анімація
great explanations of what goes into a quality piece
Thank you!
A stitch in time saves nine. Awesome old school technical work. When you lay your head down at night and prayers have been said you can rest easy knowing you've done it right. Blessings on ya ole son. Again Thanx for taking the time to let people know what they're getting for their dollar. As ever just Tom 🤠
Thank you!
I appreciate your time in making this video. I've been leatherworking for about 60 years, but find it almost impossible to do leatherwork for others. Recently someone asked me to build a custom seat for his 1968 Triumph 650. I had a blast making it, though, I only charged $200 for it (shaping, stretching and tooling the custom artwork took about two weeks), if someone I didn't like asked I'd tell them "You can't afford it!"
I mostly do leather items for myself, the usual... chaps, spur straps, make knives and sheaths, wallets, motorcycle jacket, sometimes hand things out for presents.
For the last couple years (off and on) I've been rebuilding an old Harpham Brothers from the late 1800's (if I was a saddlemaker it would have been done shortly after I got it... maybe), I learn slower these days than I used to, but I'll take the time, do the research (Bruce Grant's book "How to make cowboy horse gear" I've had with me for 60 years has a section by Lee Rice on the subject), watch the videos and put something on it. Then think about it some more. This video is priceless for craftspeople and artists. But a salesman's nightmare. Wish you'd make more of 'em.
Thanks! You're an inspiration.
Just saw this. Thank you!
What a beautiful saddle. The detail work is exquisite!
Thank you!
A beautiful and very functional saddle that works with the horses and rider's. They will stand the test of time and be family heirlooms to be handed down for future generations to use as they should be instead of sitting in a barn and forgotten about. Thank You for the work you do for the working cowboys and people that appreciate your work.
Thank you for your kind comment!
A mi me encantan esas monturas
As a poor college student in the early 90s, I purchased a discount saddle from a saddlery outlet store. It was a good saddle and is still in use today, with my nieces. But I realize now that I got dang lucky.
That was an eye opener, great information to use when looking for a saddle.
Thank you!
So informative and quality
Well explained thank you!!!
Thank you!
Hi Nick, your craftsmanship is exceptional. So glad you made the video.
The problem today is some saddlers are getting lazy and just want a quick buck. And consumers can’t afford, or just don’t understand what they are purchasing, so less cost will do.
But the reality is as you explained a proper handmade saddle will stand up to a lot of hard use, saving them expensive repair costs.
Here in Australia is so difficult to get a correctly hand made Traditional Australian Stock saddle. The craftsmanship way of making these saddles is dying out forever lost. The current market is flooded with Indian made copies (falsely labeled Australian made)stock saddles that don’t last five years and are very bad for the horses back. But consumers don’t understand what they are buying, except they think they are saving money.
Thank you for your comments!
Very informative. I would definitely consider the cost as an investment for the quality of the end product. Thanks for the video.
Thank you!
G’Day Nick Pernoakas, you are a true artisan, as you said you make heirlooms that will stand the test of time and more importantly wear. Thank GOD you are a rider which makes all the difference between something that looks pretty, to creating something extraordinarily pretty functional and far more durable too. I can truly see the extra value for money that you put in to each and every one of a kind hand crafted artistic stunningly beautiful comfortable yet tremendously functional and strong well balanced saddle. One day I would love to own one of your fabulous masterpieces. Well done and thank you for the truly informative video. Much love Victoria Australia xo.
Thank you for your kind words Victoria. It's always nice to be appreciated.
Nice saddle ! Get in more detail . What do you use to make leather shine and hours on tooling ! Beautiful 😅
Today I use a final top coat of an acrylic sealer after its oiled.
Very good Nick.
Thank you Paul!
Hi Nick,
Could you tell me where you source your foam seat padding?
Thanks, Lou
Unfortunately the company that I got that from in the video went out of business last year.@@louiszemek5058
Hi Nick, truly magnificent work! and thanks for sharing. I'm currently restoring a 1975 Saddle Y Roper down in South Africa that I found stored in a barn. I finished removing the sheepskin last night and I'm not blessed with 2 stitch lines. I want to remove the plugs and get in there and treat the old leather. They're still relatively stitched in, but once removed as you say it won't be easy to line them up again for my mate who will stitch the new sheepskin back in (thanks for the intel on the bigger piece and how to lay it out) What do you suggest I do at this point to make his job a little easier before I completely remove the plugs. I could also do it by hand but after your comment that you use a machine to get a stronger hold for a working saddle. I work as a cowboy on a cattle ranch so I plan to put this piece through the paces for years to come. Thanks in advance JM
Hey Jack,
Ok, first of all , do not remove the plugs. Try to glue them around the inner parts if they are loose before you remove stitches. If they are already loose , I use a few needles to line the old stitch holes up and then reflux the plugs and press down to skirts. Don’t worry about treating or cleaning underside of skirts. If you oil them , the plugs and sheepskin won’t stick down.. If you clean and oil top of skirt , that will be sufficient. It will dry out first.
Next, I had an article in a Leather Crafters Journal last year that showed this, but when I reline old skirts, I sew across top of skirts that don’t show, I use my machine and when I get to top of front or back of skirts , I remove them from machine, and take a lot of top and bottom thread with them. I then hand sew the rest of the skirt with a “hook” which is just the bottom needle from a double needle machine. This keeps you from cutting through stitches that are worn and hard to see. Good luck!
@@Leathermedia1 can't thank you enough for the intel! I haven't removed the plugs so your replies timing is perfect. will glue them properly before removing the cut stitches when I removed the sheepskin that are still holing everything super tight. Is there a link to the article you wrote by any chance? Would love to give it a read...one more question if that's okay...once I've completed that task, and before I reassemble the saddle, which I've now cleaned up beautifully, I want to give the leather the best possible treatment. I see that most people are using 100% pure neatsfoot oil, which is something South Africa simply doesn't seem to have (only the compound, which I see is frowned upon) is there any other product that you would recommend? The leather is relatively hard, but in great shape. For my working saddles I pretty much drown them in a very heavy oil mix of dubbins and fats to keep them waterproof and hydrated. We have heavy summer rains here. But I feel in order to give this seat a new lease on a working life here on the ranch I'd really like to go the whole hog do it properly. Warmest regards
@@Leathermedia1 also is there a website for your saddles?
First of all , here’s the link from that magazine . Ask for Charil and maybe she can help you.
leathercraftersjournal.com/
They only print six issues a year; I just don’t remember which issue it was but there are pictures too.
My website is Pernokas saddlery.com.
If you can order from Weaver Leather, they have a good saddlers oil. Olive oil is used up here by some. Compound nests foot can be used but it has a lot of impurities that darken the leather more and some say it’s harder on the stitching.
The oil type probably isn’t as important as making sure leather is clean before you put oil on it.
@@Leathermedia1 just checkout out your site in detail...truly magnificent stuff!! Basically functional art pieces...I've been repairing mine myself, and this is the first time having to redo the sheepskin, so kind of feel I'm getting closer to doing a build from scratch eventually. But ranch work pretty much is never-ending so finding gaps is always hard. I see we connected on fb now :) thanks for you time with answering these question, I really appreciate it man...not a lot of cowboys here down in Africa to compare notes with. Keep in touch
Very interesting
Wish you still was doing it
Oh, I'm still around. Thanks.
If you enjoyed this video, you may also enjoy the following video:
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What is the minimum price of your saddle? Thanks.
It was $5500.00 but unfortunately I retired this past year. Thanks for asking.
A musical look inside the saddle shop:
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Nails….te number is a huedeal
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