Thanks so much Ann! I’ve used shellac for many years but it was nice seeing the comparison side by side. If I might make a suggestion, scoop out some shellac into a container and leave it open. It will thicken up over time and be much easier to control. I love your style and ease of teaching! Thanks again!
Thanks for the tip...I will try that. I appreciate you sharing, it’s the reason we started the channel. We get so many good tips from viewers like you that make us all better at our craft!
This was a great lesson. So many ways to approach this technique, huh? Body latex (resist) is my next experiment! Thank you for your research demo, Ann.
@@annruel9142 A potter in our (community) studio uses it for water etching (aka hydro abrasion) and she finds it easier (to remove) and stronger than pottery latex. And it comes in funky colors that are easy to see.
One of my favorites! We saw something like this at our studio, the piece had come out from firing and we were trying to figure out how it was done, thank you for the tutorial!!!
Excellent video. I learned how do do the Hydro abrasion in a class but this is way more far reaching and informative. I wasn't interested in trying it for myself till I saw this. Now I'm lamenting that I have bisqued mugs waiting for me rather than green ones. Looks like it's time to make some more. Thanks.
Thank you for these great ideas! I have been carving away the background to achieve the raised effect, time consuming! I’ll try your way, thank you kindly for your patient instructions🙏🏻💐✨
Let me begin with I have no clue about pottery, but I do know my mod Podge. I want to suggest a few things to experiment with. First use one of those needle tips bottles to outlines your images with mod pod. Once they are dry (like in a hour) then fill in with the rest of the image. This way you can ensure the small details are covered. I would also do a second coat after the first one is dry. (Like in an hour) You can swipe this coat on. This way you fill any holes the dabbing may have left. These pieces are so beautiful!! I love them.
Totally agree. I did some resist on my work during studies and used homemade shellack with flakes. You can create various thicknesses when buying the flakes. It also gives you more control and a sharper edge. I loved that process. I also used different sponging methods such as wiping from the inside out of the image. This way you would lose less edges and it leaves more of the image intact if you are so inclined to wash away more clay to create more high relief effect. We also did some erosion on glass by using a resist method. I did a tile with an old mercedes from the front, which had a lot of fine lines in the grill. That was incredible too.
@@LittleStreetPottery pity, due to the move, I think it is somewhere in the container. Sorry. I will try to find it once we can finally move into our house.
Of late, another resist agent has come my way…liquid latex. To be applied like midge lodge and peeled off once the wiping is over. I still have to try it.
You totally rock! Thanks for sharing your wonderful tests and teaching me a new technique to try. I purchased some liquid rubber latex and may give it a try. I really don't think it will hold up, but you never know.
Thank you Ann for a very informative video! I've never tried this, but am now excited to try this. It seems like shellac is the best of the three, but I do have some questions: how long and at what point do you vent the kiln when firing pieces with shellac? Can the shellac affect the coils? Can you fire pieces with shellac at the same time as pieces with no shellac? Thank you again for taking the time to make this!!!
Great comparative - I have used wax and mod podge and prefer mod podge as it held up better while giving sharper lines. My designs also had underglaze snd found the "ash" needing to be washed off with MP.
I used shellac when I fired at a college in a reduction kiln, but don’t think it would be good to use shellac in my electric unvented kiln in my garage. I’m glad you showed other possibilities. I think I’ll try Mod Podge and be extra careful with delicate areas.
Good video. I'm a little surprised you didn't mention the smelly fumes from the shellac while applying it to the pot. I have animals in the house, so I choose to use Mod Podge, as there are no toxic fumes with it.
Hi Julie. I was surprised that the shellac was not that smelly to me. Actually I thought the mod podge was smellier than the shellac :-). Now, when it is firing in the kiln...you dont want to be breathing any of those fumes so make sure you have good ventilation.
@@annruel9142 I have to be very careful with the fumes, because I have birds. I guess I feel more comfortable with Mod Podge because its non-toxic. Great video. I'm working on my project today!
@@annruel9142 I think both - but can't remember what the additive was - some kind of flake. Not sure if i'm giving away secrets! may delete after you read response
Hi there, have been watching some of your videos. A few years ago I dabbled with shellac resist on bone china. No colored decoration used but I did scratch through the shellac. I used vinegar in the water to wash back and got good results. A translucent celadon type glaze looked good on it.
Such an artist person and fabulous teacher. I really appreciate your videos and continue to be so impressed with your talent and creativity. Can you fire a shellacked piece in an electric kiln?
I've only fired pieces using the process outlined in the video with no problems...not sure of the consequences if you used a lot more or a different technique. Perhaps someone else the community had experience?
I use heated candle wax for "glaze resist" but find the shellac is excellent when creating raised surfaces. I haven't used mod podge. As you say care is needed not to have the shellac run.
Thanks for watching Neil. Yes, I found the shellac spread out a bit when it went out of bounds, The wax was difficult to clean up when I messed up. I was glad to see the mod podge actually peel up. I want to try again with the mod podge and see if I can do a mug by peeling the mod podge then underglazing and sgraffitoing,. Have fun in the studio
Ann, I didn't hear you say you applied a clear glaze. If you did was it dipped or brushed? Nice technique. Didn't think you would allow wax resist in your studio.😳
My goodness this is amazing and sooo beautiful Ann. Thank you so much, as always I love your videos soo much. I’m also wondering if you went on the same direction every time you wiped the mug? Maybe if you went in several directions it wouldn’t erode the painted area so much since the top part wouldn’t get all of the abrasion? Did you find that most of the images were lost on the top edge? Just a suggestion.
Hi Michele. Actually, I found that going in different directions when wiping seemed to work the best. I sure you are right that I lost more design from wiping from top to bottom. Great eye Michele!
Hi April. I was using Standard brand English Porcelain #365. It has no grog and is a very "cool" white color. The "no grog" seems to be important to maintaining the smooth surface after the abrasion.
Ann, you are so generous with your knowledge! Thank you so much! As a couple of people have noted, I am also wondering how latex resist would fare. (I did not know there was more than one type of latex either!) Latex could be peeled off before firing so no smell. Have you tried it yet?
Hi Evelyn. You really have to be careful with firing any substances in the kiln including glazes. Make sure the kiln is well ventilated. I did not go in where the kiln was except to check on it so I wouldnt take a chance of breathing in the vapors. :-)
I’m wondering the same thing. I don’t think it would be bad for the kiln itself but maybe for all of the other pieces in the kiln while it’s burning off. I don’t have a vent so I don’t know if I should try this or not.
@@micheledickey4066 Hi Michele. I had a couple of other pieces in the kiln and it didnt seem to affect them, but I can only report what I experimented with. Do you have a test kiln Michele? It is a good question for people in the facebook POttery Studio Group. Im sure there are people who use the shellac as they are the ones who recommended it to me.
The little amount used for a resist has not been a problem for me. I cant speak to its flammability (not an expert) but you also have to be careful of the fumes - lots of ventilation!
Rather than wiping with such vigorous swipes, dab and wiggle the wet sponge...the a gentle swipe will pick up the disolved clay. You'll retain more detail.
Thanks so much Ann! I’ve used shellac for many years but it was nice seeing the comparison side by side. If I might make a suggestion, scoop out some shellac into a container and leave it open. It will thicken up over time and be much easier to control. I love your style and ease of teaching! Thanks again!
Thanks for the tip...I will try that. I appreciate you sharing, it’s the reason we started the channel. We get so many good tips from viewers like you that make us all better at our craft!
Thank you for showing your experiments. To get shellac out of brushes soak the brush in ammonia. It works surprisingly well.
Never heard of this. I can’t wait to try it! ❤
This is definitely not my type of art, but the way you explain things is succinct and calming. Thanks for the video
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching :-)
This was a great lesson. So many ways to approach this technique, huh? Body latex (resist) is my next experiment! Thank you for your research demo, Ann.
Thanks Tricia! I would like to try latex. I am not sure how durable it would during the abrading, but it would be great to exoeriment with.
@@annruel9142 A potter in our (community) studio uses it for water etching (aka hydro abrasion) and she finds it easier (to remove) and stronger than pottery latex. And it comes in funky colors that are easy to see.
@@tricialee5 Oh, I didnt realize there was a difference. Thanks for letting me know. I am always learning something new. :-)
Great explanations. I like how you showed three different options and the finished pieces.
Thakns for watching Ali!
I love your videos thanks for doing these and sharing!
Thanks for watching Janet! so nice of you.
One of my favorites! We saw something like this at our studio, the piece had come out from firing and we were trying to figure out how it was done, thank you for the tutorial!!!
Ann - I love the way you try things !! Wonderful video - Thanks!
Aww...thanks so much. I appreciate you watching!!
Excellent video. I learned how do do the Hydro abrasion in a class but this is way more far reaching and informative. I wasn't interested in trying it for myself till I saw this. Now I'm lamenting that I have bisqued mugs waiting for me rather than green ones. Looks like it's time to make some more. Thanks.
Thank you for these great ideas! I have been carving away the background to achieve the raised effect, time consuming! I’ll try your way, thank you kindly for your patient instructions🙏🏻💐✨
Let me begin with I have no clue about pottery, but I do know my mod Podge.
I want to suggest a few things to experiment with.
First use one of those needle tips bottles to outlines your images with mod pod. Once they are dry (like in a hour) then fill in with the rest of the image. This way you can ensure the small details are covered. I would also do a second coat after the first one is dry. (Like in an hour) You can swipe this coat on. This way you fill any holes the dabbing may have left.
These pieces are so beautiful!! I love them.
Great ideas - we will keep those in mind for future vids!
I love this technique! Thanks Ann!
Thank you very much for sharing. I'll certainly use these techniques with my students. 👏👏👏😊😊😊
Thank you so much, Anne, for this informative video. Your mugs all came out beautiful! I intend to find shellac and buy it to try it as a resist.
Another cool technique. Much easier than using a stream of water to carve with.
Thank you for such great idea for decoration and showing us how to do it. I really liked the three mugs and I loved the mug you used the shellac on.
Thanks Jessica. It was fun to experiment. Just make sure you have good venting when firing it off.
Thank you for the exercise of the three products. Very very helpful!
Very educational. Thank you so much for sharing. x
I like the shellac at first but when all done I like the first one . but didn't get to see all 3 side by side at end.
I really really enjoyed this video. So very helpful for when I try this Ann, I just happen to have Mod Podge so will give it a try.
Cheers...Freddie
HI Freddie!!! You are so sweet. Thanks for watching and if you do experiment, post pics if you get a chance to the Pottery STudio Group!
Totally agree. I did some resist on my work during studies and used homemade shellack with flakes. You can create various thicknesses when buying the flakes. It also gives you more control and a sharper edge. I loved that process. I also used different sponging methods such as wiping from the inside out of the image. This way you would lose less edges and it leaves more of the image intact if you are so inclined to wash away more clay to create more high relief effect. We also did some erosion on glass by using a resist method. I did a tile with an old mercedes from the front, which had a lot of fine lines in the grill. That was incredible too.
would love to see that Mercedes tile!
@@LittleStreetPottery pity, due to the move, I think it is somewhere in the container. Sorry. I will try to find it once we can finally move into our house.
Love the idea! I am totally going to try this method! Thanks for sharing!
Of late, another resist agent has come my way…liquid latex. To be applied like midge lodge and peeled off once the wiping is over. I still have to try it.
Love this process! And the mugs!
I wonder how latex resist might work?
Yet another wonderful video! You are a natural when it comes to teaching. Thank you so much for sharing your immense knowledge with us!
Thanks Cindy! I appreciate you watching!
You totally rock! Thanks for sharing your wonderful tests and teaching me a new technique to try. I purchased some liquid rubber latex and may give it a try. I really don't think it will hold up, but you never know.
Would love to know how it works out!
Thanks always interesting
Thanks so much Nancy! I appreciate you watching!
Lovely video!! Thank you
Thanks so much for watching Brigitte!
Thanks so much for doing this test! I've also been told you can use latex paint but I've yet to try it.
Great video... thanks
Thank you Ann for a very informative video! I've never tried this, but am now excited to try this. It seems like shellac is the best of the three, but I do have some questions: how long and at what point do you vent the kiln when firing pieces with shellac? Can the shellac affect the coils? Can you fire pieces with shellac at the same time as pieces with no shellac? Thank you again for taking the time to make this!!!
Great comparative - I have used wax and mod podge and prefer mod podge as it held up better while giving sharper lines. My designs also had underglaze snd found the "ash" needing to be washed off with MP.
May I ask what MP is?
So we got the same results. I want to give this technique one more go perhaps waiting until I can peel off the mod podge to underglaze and sgraffitto.
@@micheledickey4066 I think she meant that she had ash left over from firing off the mod podge (MP) as well as the shellac
@@micheledickey4066 yes Ann is correct, I was being lazy and didn't type it out - Mod Podge. 😊👍🏼
What tool are you using to scraffito? Love your videos...going to try this!
Hi Billye, I used a Diamond Core sgraffito tool. JIm put the link to it in the description section.
I used shellac when I fired at a college in a reduction kiln, but don’t think it would be good to use shellac in my electric unvented kiln in my garage. I’m glad you showed other possibilities. I think I’ll try Mod Podge and be extra careful with delicate areas.
Good video. I'm a little surprised you didn't mention the smelly fumes from the shellac while applying it to the pot. I have animals in the house, so I choose to use Mod Podge, as there are no toxic fumes with it.
Hi Julie. I was surprised that the shellac was not that smelly to me. Actually I thought the mod podge was smellier than the shellac :-). Now, when it is firing in the kiln...you dont want to be breathing any of those fumes so make sure you have good ventilation.
@@annruel9142 I have to be very careful with the fumes, because I have birds. I guess I feel more comfortable with Mod Podge because its non-toxic. Great video. I'm working on my project today!
@@juliestrater439 Gotcha. The good thing about mod podge too is that you can peel it up before firing and eliminate the fumes altogether.
Great video! Mike Strumbas thickens his shellac which may address the issues you had.
Thanks Victoria. I wonder what he used to thicken it with...or did he just let it set up (dry out) a little before brushing it on
@@annruel9142 I think both - but can't remember what the additive was - some kind of flake. Not sure if i'm giving away secrets! may delete after you read response
Hi there, have been watching some of your videos. A few years ago I dabbled with shellac resist on bone china. No colored decoration used but I did scratch through the shellac.
I used vinegar in the water to wash back and got good results. A translucent celadon type glaze looked good on it.
Great ideas for future vids - thanks!
Such an artist person and fabulous teacher. I really appreciate your videos and continue to be so impressed with your talent and creativity.
Can you fire a shellacked piece in an electric kiln?
I've only fired pieces using the process outlined in the video with no problems...not sure of the consequences if you used a lot more or a different technique. Perhaps someone else the community had experience?
Ann como siempre tus videos son excelentes y te agradezco. Te encargo subtitulo en español por favor
I found the shellac works the best
Absolutely beautiful!
I use heated candle wax for "glaze resist" but find the shellac is excellent when creating raised surfaces. I haven't used mod podge. As you say care is needed not to have the shellac run.
Thanks for watching Neil. Yes, I found the shellac spread out a bit when it went out of bounds, The wax was difficult to clean up when I messed up. I was glad to see the mod podge actually peel up. I want to try again with the mod podge and see if I can do a mug by peeling the mod podge then underglazing and sgraffitoing,. Have fun in the studio
Ann, I didn't hear you say you applied a clear glaze. If you did was it dipped or brushed? Nice technique. Didn't think you would allow wax resist in your studio.😳
Yes, its unusual, but I did put a C-11 Amaco clear over all these 😆
Thank you for these great ideas✨
Glad you like them!
My goodness this is amazing and sooo beautiful Ann. Thank you so much, as always I love your videos soo much.
I’m also wondering if you went on the same direction every time you wiped the mug? Maybe if you went in several directions it wouldn’t erode the painted area so much since the top part wouldn’t get all of the abrasion? Did you find that most of the images were lost on the top edge? Just a suggestion.
Hi Michele. Actually, I found that going in different directions when wiping seemed to work the best. I sure you are right that I lost more design from wiping from top to bottom. Great eye Michele!
Such a beautiful video ! Would you mind sharing what claybody you were using .. so white 😊💕
Thanks! Standard porcelain #365
Hi April. I was using Standard brand English Porcelain #365. It has no grog and is a very "cool" white color. The "no grog" seems to be important to maintaining the smooth surface after the abrasion.
do you use a clear glaze over top of these? work is beautiful!
I rarely do but in this case yes. THanks.
Ann, you are so generous with your knowledge! Thank you so much! As a couple of people have noted, I am also wondering how latex resist would fare. (I did not know there was more than one type of latex either!) Latex could be peeled off before firing so no smell. Have you tried it yet?
have not tried that one as yet...its on the list! Thanks.
Does it only work on greenware? Was wondering if it could be worked on bisque fired pieces ? Thanks
I can't find the tool you used for carving.
It's a Diamond Core tool - check out their site - great tools!
Did you use a clear glaze over everything?
Check out my Underglaze Painting video 101 for how I typically glaze. Thanks
Ann, does this process result in sharp edges which could cut someone's fingers, or snag fabric?
Hi Thea. Good questoin. On the mugs I did, they were not sharp enough to cause any damage.
Isn't shellac bad for the kiln?
Hi Evelyn. You really have to be careful with firing any substances in the kiln including glazes. Make sure the kiln is well ventilated. I did not go in where the kiln was except to check on it so I wouldnt take a chance of breathing in the vapors. :-)
I’m wondering the same thing. I don’t think it would be bad for the kiln itself but maybe for all of the other pieces in the kiln while it’s burning off. I don’t have a vent so I don’t know if I should try this or not.
@@micheledickey4066 Hi Michele. I had a couple of other pieces in the kiln and it didnt seem to affect them, but I can only report what I experimented with. Do you have a test kiln Michele? It is a good question for people in the facebook POttery Studio Group. Im sure there are people who use the shellac as they are the ones who recommended it to me.
Is the shellac very flammable and could it affect other pottery in the kiln?
The little amount used for a resist has not been a problem for me. I cant speak to its flammability (not an expert) but you also have to be careful of the fumes - lots of ventilation!
Great video the link to DiamondCore tools doesn’t work for me what tool number did you use please the number isn’t listed thanks for sharing
I use the L1 and L2 for the sgraffito work. Thanks for watching!
I went out and got the shellac last night so now I have it waiting for a new technique supply shortages everywhere lucky there were two I left one 😊
The shellac flakes can be dissolved in 99% alcohol, until a higher consistency is obtained, without the danger of leaking.
Rather than wiping with such vigorous swipes, dab and wiggle the wet sponge...the a gentle swipe will pick up the disolved clay. You'll retain more detail.
Good tip Steven! Thanks.
❤❤❤