Running Schwalbe Magic Mary front and Hans Dampf rear, both super trail and soft compound, between 20 and 22 in the front, 24 to 26 in the rear. May go higher pressure depending on the trails and conditions.
Hardtail, 26“x2,2“ Continental Race-/ Cross-/ Mountain King Race Sport (depending on surface and weather conditions), latex inner tubes, 1,6/1,8 bar (f/r) to 2,0/2,2 bar (f/r).
I'm 78 kg, mostly XC trails, roots and smooth. 2.4" tires - Specialized GC T7/T5, and I run 19/21 psi most of the time. If I'm in the mountains with rocks, bump up to 22/24 or so.
Another consideration if you're riding hard into berms. Even though they may be smooth, I need to increase pressure to prevent the tire from burping air or rolling sideways on the rim.
Rims too narrow will lend to that! The reason behind my choice of 76mm wide tires on i45 rims is because of tire/rim width is intended for performance without requiring max inflation, which is a wholesale level traction loss. I do hit corners with reasonable speeds and go wide open at 40% completion of the corner however, my internal suspension is available, full time. Some people call it elbows and knees!
The beauty of experimenting with and adjusting the pressure is that it literally costs nothing and takes minimal effort. 😄 I have different settings for each one of my usual trails and always tweak a few PSI up or down. 😌
My general rule for off-road bikes, which mostly comes from fiddling with pressures for my fatbike in the snow, is that I want to see the full width of the tread minus the side lugs in my tracks on the ground. Obviously, my dirt-jump bike and road bike are exceptions to that (much higher pressure) but I find that gives me the traction I need off-road (no wheel spins or washouts, no burping or deforming in corners).
Once you get a digital pressure gauge and a track pump...you realise the importance of properly checking the tyres with more than just 'the squeeze'. Great video!
@@45graham45 Even when built for industrial use, pressure gauges are notoriously inaccurate and must be gently cared for and re-calibrated often. Assuming that pressure gauges that MTBers will own are accurate is just silly. Plus, the video spends 14 minutes to say, "The best pressure depends on several factors." So what is the point of using tire gauges even if they are perfect? IMO, getting close by pressing down on the tread is good enough to start, then see how the tires feel on the trail. I was amazed that he implied that some people squeeze the sidewalls. That would have never occurred to me for the reasons he says not to.
@@45graham45 Yes, I got it the first time. Obviously, I agree with you. My comment was meant to elaborate on yours. It such a shame that, as a society, we've become so touchy.
Inner tube user here: 20 psi feels the best, until you get a flat. 30 psi for dealing with urban situations like sidewalks. This is for me as a light 60kg rider on 57mm schwalbe Racing Ray/Ralph. At the end of the day..the thumb test is the most accurate. You don't need to know exact psi unless ur a racer/nerd and you want the perfect set-up every time that you tested urself. Ps: I can run my front tyre at 15 psi if needed
@tabcobra also on your tyre casing/sidewall and if using an insert and skill. For slow careful rides I only notice my front below 12psi, but going with silca numbers is an excellent start. I sometimes like trying to ride up stairs at 25kph.. so the tyre has to be almost rock solid
@@owensnicholas I'm a cheap fk, only a few local shops are willing to do it. I would have to just try it some day when I can buy a proper inflator, valve thingy and the sealant. I also use an insert on the rear at times for urban stuff or skatepark shenanigans. Also my rims aren't tubeless ready.
At 3:00, you're debating the inverse relationship between pressure and volume. Makes sense. But then you throw in another variable, the contact patch width, without noting its relationship to either the aforementioned pressure and volume variables. You come to conclude that lower pressure = wider contact patch, which is correct. However, you wrongly follow up that you can run a wider tire "at lower pressure to get that same/similar contact patch" .... same/similar contact patch as what? The narrower tire at higher pressure? This would be wrong. You can actually achieve the same contact patch width on a wider tire at higher pressure as the narrower tire at lower pressure. But we instead run wide tires on low pressure not to achieve the same contact patch as found on narrower tires, but to maximize the contact patch, period.
Well, rim width, tire volume, TPI, ply count and is the rider a lardass or on the cancer diet program? While I do not recommend the cancer diet program, I run i45's with 3.0 120 TPI single ply tires seeing as cancer and related treatment lightened me up to the point that my bikes were investigating me for harboring Ti and Carbon parts.. 10 psi front, 14 psi rear and I have a great time exploring for more trials zones. Tire sizes, tire pressure, saddle choice, nothing is more subjective. Well, almost nothing 'ceptin guitar strings!!
Very nice video! It's a bit of an obsession with the right pressure :-) There is no such thing, Every terrain and every combination of tire, rim and rider and his technique needs a little different pressure. For example, I weigh about 95 kg and I know that on an enduro bike with pressures below 23 PSI, sooner or later I will surely puncture or take off the tire in a corner. So for me, the right pressure is for example somewhere between 23-30 PSI depending on whether I am going to jump on the rock garden is mud or snow or I'm going for a longer ride in dry weather on an XC bike. It should also not be forgotten that when we drive in the winter and inflate the tires in the heat, the pressure during real riding in the cold can be even 5 PSI lower.
I went to my local bike mechanic because i had trouble with wash outs from my front tire. I had the mindset that i needed burlier tires but instead he asked me what tier pressure i had and how i had the fork set up. He could have easily sold me a set of tiers but instead he chose to find the root of the problem. I had to much pressure in my tire and i had to make some changes to my fork set up
@TivonSanders i hadn't checked the pressure for a while and the rampup chamber on my Öhlins fork was way of, i turned down the high speed compression a few clicks to make it more sensitive and i also turned down the rebound a couple of clicks
I normally ride 125 psi in my main chamber and 210 psi in the rampup chamber, i think the main chamber was 115 psi and the rampup was 130psi before i corrected it. (The rampup chamber should approximately be the double amount of pressure than the main chamber)
Good video Owen, well done getting through the minefield of pressures. It really makes the biggest difference to your ride and doesn't cost anything except a digital gauge. I ride maxxis assegai front with rimpact insert 1,1bar and maxxis Minion DHR rear with rimpact insert and 1,3 bar. Sorry, in Europe we don't work much with psi 😅
It took me awhile to discover the type of Tires I like. I have 130mm rear and 160mm front travel....but I run 18 PSI in the front and 20 PSI in the rear...have not burped a tire since figuring this out...! I currently run Vittoria Agarro's 27.5 X 2.6 on each wheel...works great !!! My eBike weighs 54 lbs.....
You're right, different for everyone. Lost front end a few times on wet tree roots. Best set up to get my confidence back in winter is dh casing Maxxis wetscream or Conti hydrotal on front with slime tubes. Can run them under 10psi if not doing hard hits or drops. Assegai or minion on rear around 20psi.
I keep my 26×1.95 tires@around 52 p.s.i,because I go slow off-road and I also like knobby to the core tires,because on concrete they make that distinct whirring sound.
I’m 215, bike is an SB130. I run 20 front / 21 rear. I use Tyrewiz and output to my Garmin so I can always see the pressure and if it is out of “spec” at a glance. These are expensive but I love them. If you need to fix a flat you have your gauge build in. Front: Maxxis Assegai 29x2.50WT 120DPI 3C MAXX Terra EXO+ TR Rear: Maxxis Minion DHR II 29x2.40WT 3C MAXX Terra EXO+ TR
I had three quite hard crashes on 3 consecutive days in spring, until i realisied i hadn't checked my front tire pressure after installing a new tire. Lowered the pressure >> all fixed
I am 190cm and 120kg and run Pirelli Scorpion E bike enduro tires with solid side walls 22lb front 28lb rear and this feels great and has plenty of grip on my Turbo Levo Alloy Comp
Never have used the “squeeze test”. I’ve either used the pressure gauge on my floor pump or a tire gauge. So I have found that 23 psi in front and 35 psi in back works best on my riding conditions.
Just got new e-Agarro for my Trek Rail and running around 24psi on front and 26psi on rear. Seems to work for me, but I m a mellow rider so maybe I can pressure down even more. Great topic Owen. Always look forward to your videos and vast knowledge. Cheers!!
Owen, I ride with TPU innertube with sealant and a Tannus Armour Insert and I can run lower pressures here in Shropshire on both of my E-MTB’s. Also this same setup is really good at mitigating against pinch flats. The only downside is the increase in rolling resistance.
I've been saying the same the most videos that talk about setting sag and stuff never talk about the difference that occurs based on your tire pressure. People would tell me "so every time you'll set your shocks" sceptically. Obviously if you're riding different terrains you need to check tire pressure and sag.
I weigh around 225 lbs or roughly 102kgs, plus or minus depending on season and kit. Typically on trail casing tires in 2.6” on the hardtail with a Vitoria enduro insert on the rear, running 20-23psi in front, and 23-27psi out back. In Ohio winters I’ll drop pressures by about 5psi lower fr and rear, mostly for traction and much slower speeds. Regardless I always have the habit of hand checking how the tire compresses every single time I pump up my tires to know how it feels.
Facts, I can ride well with just checking by hand, and getting 20-22 on front and 23-25 on the back works well. Would be nice to get a gauge but so far so good and makes your hand wiser haha
I found this basic calculator is pretty accurate (I think it was originally from Stan's). Take your weight (in pounds) and divide by 7. That's your rear tire pressure. Subtract 2 from that and that's your front tire pressure.
Yea, that’s definitely too high pressure … That would be 27psi for me. I run 23-24. But its very close to my daughter best tire pressure. I guess this works for light weight rider, not full size dads…
@@mattwilson5092 that formula works for me when I had aluminum wheels, works perfectly. When I bought carbon wheels, I dropped the pressure a little because of the increased chatter (I'm old and need to go easy on my parts). But, for the aluminum wheels, the formula you suggested was right on the money.
Seems like if I ride varied terrain (mellow, rocky, steep, drops, etc.) I'd need to stop at each different terrain and change my tire pressure. Hardly a practical way to enjoy MTB'ing. Sometimes perfect is the enemy of good.
Thats an odd take of the video. No one stops to change pressures within a ride. You pick a pressure based on the terrain and type of riding you will be doing that day.
thats why getting it right is important so you have grip on the steeps but dont ding your rim on the rocky sections. Perfect would be something that works best in all scenarios for that day
A company actually makes an inflator built-in to their hubs, similar to the Schlesser buggy’s in the Dakar rally during the late 90’s/ early 2000’s. They were able to drop and raise pressure accordingly depending on the surface (sand or rock).
I'm an "older" rider similar to Owen, and I run 2 wheelsets with very different tyres on my standard Stumpy. Currently I'm running Conti Xynotals for trail riding (natural woodland, much like off piste FOD, not manicured bike park), and Vittoria Terrinos for spinning out some miles on gravel and daily commuting, and there's 2 things I've noticed over the 30 years or so I've been doing this sort of riding, regardless of which tyre I'm running: Firstly, tyres tend to find the grip "sweet spot" pressure by themselves given a bit of time. Put a bit of extra air in them, and by riding the same trail over and over they lose pressure relatively quickly, then it plateaus at around the correct pressure, and the rate at which pressure drops slows right down. I'm talking over weeks / months here, not a few hours out riding. Try it, for the trail tyres I whack ~30 psi in, go ride for a week (~50 miles) and they'll drop to about 22-24 psi (which is roughly my sweet spot), then it'll take a couple of months before that drops to the point where they feel too soft which'll only be 2 or 3 psi lower. I get the same with the Terrinos, only they settle around 35/36 psi Secondly, the grip sweet spot isn't where the tyres are fastest, that's about 15% psi higher. I find I get all the grip in the world around 21/23 psi f/r with the xynotals, and it feels fast, but if I whack an extra 3-4 psi in, everything feels a bit more sketchy grip wise and it feels slower, but in reality this is when I get the fastest times on my local trails according to strava. Similarly with the Terrinos, 40/43 psi is where I'm fastest but they feel at their grippiest in the mid 30's. That said I run the trail tyres at the grippy PSI, because that's where riding is the most fun and feels fastest, even if it is a bit slower in reality. This of course could just all be a massive coincidence that "works" for riders like me and Owen, it's just something I've noticed over the years with all my tyres regardless of brand, more so with tubeless but with tubes too. Be interesting if anyone else has noticed this.
For me weighing in at 205lb with all my riding gear on, running 26(f)28(r) tubeless no inserts on Continental enduro soft tires. The lowest ill go is 24(f)26(r).
I always use minimum pressure recommended by the tire for front tyre, +1 or +2 for rear
12 днів тому+1
I don't like to bend my tires on the corners. Thats so dangerous! So, I go between 24 to 26 front, and 26 to 28 rear tire. I'm a XCO rider, 75kg, hardtail with 2.2 Chaoyang Phantom tires, tubeless.
I set my tire pressure based on what happens when I rail really hard through a tight berm. If I feel the tire folding over, wobbling, or burping, I go up in pressure until that doesn't happen anymore. I usually end up at 22psi front and 24psi rear with my riding weight of 180 lbs. I'm also a big fan of tire inserts. I once crushed into my carbon rim and I've popped spokes a number of times. Inserts are the best way to mitigate that without resorting to higher pressure.
I ride 27.5” Vittoria Barzo Graphine 2.35” 120 tpi on my Top Fuel 9.9 XTR at 16 lbs in the front and 18-20 lbs in the back. I weigh 115 lbs, and I haven’t had any issues. The sidewalls are pretty firm.
I am a 5'10" 240 pound retired firefighter. And no i am not as round as i am tall. I set my tubless tires at 35 pounds of pressure for all rides. My tires are 2.4 " wide, maxxis DHR rear and Maxxis DHR II Front, and i ride all consitions. My reason is that i have had my tires burp sealent and get pinch flats at lower pressures.
I just start at 20 for a new tire/changing season and adjust upwards until traction becomes an obvious issue, to where I subtract 1 psi. When it gets wet I'll drop down substantially. Been able to run the Minion DHR's at 24f 26r lately. Trails have been at that perfect point between to dry and leaving a barely visible imprint. I have a 10 minute pavement ride one way and I plan for that.
for the assegai in the front i use 19 psi at hot weather and about 21 in cold weather. It feels like it needs more air in the cold to get the same feeling as 19 in a hotter day. And for the rear tyre, I'm currently running a Butcher black Diamond and I could not figure out the best pressure for that one. I was running a Chaoyang Gladiator before, and with 23 psi in the hot weather was pretty good, 25 for colder days. But with the Butcher, even in hot days 25 psi feels a little bit off, but will figure out that one.
@@2morecats with ya there mate. Sedona riders always telling me sub-24 is an awful idea but I can’t grab down there and the drops on, say, easy breazy never seem to mind it that low
surprised at the pressures suggested, I ride a hard tail with 2.6 front and rear, Exo+ tyres, no inserts, ride aggressively enduro style rails, all the jumps drops etc at FOD, run as low as 14 front and 16 rear
For a mountain bike with tire widths between 1.95 and 2.5 inches, I generally run 40 pounds per square inch for commuting on asphalt or pavement and drop the pressure down to 30 p.s.i. for off road excursions. These are my guidelines, you are welcome to adjust them to suit your taste.
The problem is - where to get a good pressure gauge. I have a few digital and mechanical priced from cheap to pretty expansive and EVERY one of them shows different pressure.
27/30 works fine for me at 72kg xc hardtail,mostly for wood roads and mixed terrain,for more road distances 50/55 and it rolls like my roadie😄,2.25 rocket ron's front and rear.
The biggest limit for going lower pressure isn't flatting or hitting the rim, but rather sidewall crumpling while railing the corners. If the sidewalls don't have enough stability I'll easily lose control in the turns and lose speed.
@@axiomic I've been dipping into the low twenties, but found recently as low as 18.5 front and rear feels really nice with my E-MTB cush cores (thicc as they come). 2.5 exo+ tires.. Wondering, have you tried 15-20 psi? Do you lose said stability? Thanks.
@@phakoo23 I think my limit on the front is 19 psi before it starts to lose stability in the turns. But I don't have cushcore on the front. On the rear 22-23 psi feels good, I haven't felt the need to go lower, but I also don't want to risk damaging the rim, which I've done once before.. I ride very rocky trails here in Sydney Australia. Rider + bike weight, and style of riding and type of trails are big factors.
I set my tyre pressure by feel and then measure, I usually find I'm down under 20psi. Tyre manufactures for some strsnge reason put insane pressures on their sidewalls, 40psi would be unusable except on the road.
There seems to be a lot of people ditching their inserts these days. My problem is that I’ve used CushCore and Rockstop for so long, even though I’m running double down casings that I don’t dare try riding without and risking a perfectly good tyre to a puncture.
With so kany variables having very precise gage means nothing. Since we are guessing the right pressure anyways, might as well use thumb or mechanical gage. In the end it is guess work all the same
Some of nerds would like to be informed about that histeresis that was mentioned a couple of times in this video. Can we get some resources to read about it? Thanks!!!
With insufficient air, the soft rubber tube slips between the tyre bead and the rim on both sides under hard compression. When the tyre rebounds, the tube is pinched and ruptures on both sides. Pinch flats look like a snake bite.
175 pounds. My favorite pressure for both my Epic HT and V4 Tallboy is 19 PSI, with stock tires. I've tried to fine tune it more several times, but seem to always end up at 19, front and rear. I've never had problems with flats or rim damage even as low as 15. 21 or higher feels too stiff and reduces traction. I wouldn't say I'm the most hardcore rider, but i do some smaller jumps, drops up to maybe 5 feet, and some rough/chunky stuff. I dunno. Maybe I'm just odd or crazy.
Haha no harm in that but 19 in the back sure sounds slow. On asphalt or other harder compound with enduro tires I go nowhere with less than 24 in the back
20 psi is super low. Depends on your body weight and the size of your tyres. I have two bikes, a Mondraker Crafty R with 2.6" tyres and a Specialized Stumpjumper 15 on 2.3" tyres. I run 22.5/27.5 F/R on the Mondraker and 28/31 F/R on the Stumpy. The 2.3" tyres are a lot smaller so you have more chance of dinging a rim and also the tyres that came on the Stumpy are trail casing so the rear tyre folds when I rail through berms (I will put thicker casing on when they wear out). There are so many variables that each person needs to work it out for themselves. If I took your advice and put 20 psi in my Stumpy tyres, I would fold the tyre right off the rim at the first berm. Also worth noting I am 194cm tall and 105kg and I ride hard. Someone who is 60kg and rides slowly would have a much different experience.
@The.JZA. I'm 77kg and ride hard at 18psi Bontrager Brevard 2.5, no CushCore, on an ebike. It's all rider preference regardless of weight and tires. Like I said, start at 20 and go from there: you'll find your preference
I run a 29x2.60 Vittoria barzos on both ends with full suspension at 15 psi both ends. I weigh in at a whopping 125lbs!! After 5 years of riding I've never had a flat. I ride mostly xc flow trails. I'm sure I'd have to up the pressure on certain situations if I rode those.
Most of the time 19 to 21 up front and 21 to 24 out back on my enduro DH and EEBs. Best lap on my xc bike... 60psi with narrow tyres Some good stuff in the video and some waffle about hysteresis and pressures, you missed out modern rum sidewalls, the massive benefits of running tubes with modern rims and the additional side wall that the tube provides, some thicker tubes will pinch before thinner ones due to the thickness decreasing the pinch distance, tube rubbers are not all equal, tyre thread quantity and direction on tyres etc etc. For xc old xc tyres at higher pressures rotate easier than accelerate faster than tubeless but are less compliant but can rip way too easily.
I like less pressure in my mtb tyres 17 or under i cant stand pinging off of the rocks plus i loose tration easily at higher psi ,im light and not good at pushing the bike into the trail .
ha ha ha - thats funny! Well as the nerd I am - the clipless Vs clip naming - goes back to when we had toe straps and clips on our pedals - so the new Automatic mechanism pedals were without the toe-clip and strap so thus got the name clipless - despite them sorta being clip-y! Cheers Owen
For riding at lower pressures, like 20 psi and less, it would be great if they would start making the bottom brackets higher. Seems they took "the lower the BB, the better" too far, and it really shows up at low pressures (pedal strikes).
Are you using a digital tyre gauge? If not then it would be worth trying one to see how accurate your pump is. If you are then there are a few different factors for you to consider. Tyre pressure will feel different at different rider weight, so for a lighter rider an even lower pressure may work better. The other think is you could be confusing the feeling of the tyres with the suspension.
Which bike has the best rolling resistance? In comparison between roadbike, crossbike and XC mountain bike. The following video explains very nicely why the road bike is the slowest on the bumpy roads and still feels fast. GCN - What's The Fastest Bike For Riding The Cobbles Of Paris-Roubaix ?
On my laufey I usually run 21psi in the front and 25-26psi rear. That's running 29x2.6. On my Rallon. I run 21psi in a 29x2.5. On the rear I usually run 25psi. How ever I have run 24psi. That's in either a 29x2.4 or a 27.5x2.4. As where I normally iis mellower than the FOD. I am looking at using slightly lower pressures.
I never used to have a gauge or just used the one on the pump, but after getting a digital gauge and experimenting it really made a difference. I totally recommend it.
Ooo - thats a interesting thought - I mean yes on paper it will but I feel it won't increase pressures too much - just as the loads - through the tyres aren't that high - compared to a moto bike or car - but yep interesting to think more about it! Cheers Owen
How about some links to said tire calculators. Or even a heres the same trail and pressures for 3 different rider weights. Throw us a ballpark before just a vague "its totally up to you" Its been up to me and Im still running 45psi
Try a lower pressure and see how it feels, if you don't like it go back up or even lower. Experimenting with tyre pressure is the only way you will find out 👍
I know a few who don’t even bother with a gauge. They just feel the tire and get on with it. Drives me nuts. Also, not sure why a digital gauge is any improvement on an old school dial gauge
35 years of normal road biking and mountain biking and I just bought a Fat Tire e-bike and everything I know about tire pressures was thrown out the window. 6-F and 7-R is just not right Lol........
What tyres and tyre pressure are you running for your riding?
15 PSI back, 13 PSI front, hardtail, 29x2.4. Feels soft and dumping in mountains.
Running Schwalbe Magic Mary front and Hans Dampf rear, both super trail and soft compound, between 20 and 22 in the front, 24 to 26 in the rear. May go higher pressure depending on the trails and conditions.
Hardtail, 26“x2,2“ Continental Race-/ Cross-/ Mountain King Race Sport (depending on surface and weather conditions), latex inner tubes, 1,6/1,8 bar (f/r) to 2,0/2,2 bar (f/r).
@@craigbest8644 Same.
I'm 78 kg, mostly XC trails, roots and smooth. 2.4" tires - Specialized GC T7/T5, and I run 19/21 psi most of the time. If I'm in the mountains with rocks, bump up to 22/24 or so.
Another consideration if you're riding hard into berms. Even though they may be smooth, I need to increase pressure to prevent the tire from burping air or rolling sideways on the rim.
Rims too narrow will lend to that!
The reason behind my choice of 76mm wide tires on i45 rims is because of tire/rim width is intended for performance without requiring max inflation, which is a wholesale level traction loss. I do hit corners with reasonable speeds and go wide open at 40% completion of the corner however, my internal suspension is available, full time. Some people call it elbows and knees!
The beauty of experimenting with and adjusting the pressure is that it literally costs nothing and takes minimal effort. 😄 I have different settings for each one of my usual trails and always tweak a few PSI up or down. 😌
My general rule for off-road bikes, which mostly comes from fiddling with pressures for my fatbike in the snow, is that I want to see the full width of the tread minus the side lugs in my tracks on the ground. Obviously, my dirt-jump bike and road bike are exceptions to that (much higher pressure) but I find that gives me the traction I need off-road (no wheel spins or washouts, no burping or deforming in corners).
Once you get a digital pressure gauge and a track pump...you realise the importance of properly checking the tyres with more than just 'the squeeze'. Great video!
@@tim__sadler But you're assuming your digital gauge isn't liying to you. The ones I've had were terrible.
@@45graham45 Even when built for industrial use, pressure gauges are notoriously inaccurate and must be gently cared for and re-calibrated often. Assuming that pressure gauges that MTBers will own are accurate is just silly. Plus, the video spends 14 minutes to say, "The best pressure depends on several factors." So what is the point of using tire gauges even if they are perfect? IMO, getting close by pressing down on the tread is good enough to start, then see how the tires feel on the trail. I was amazed that he implied that some people squeeze the sidewalls. That would have never occurred to me for the reasons he says not to.
@jimwing.2178 My point being that assuming digital pressure gauges are accurate as stated in the video is wrong.
@@45graham45 Yes, I got it the first time. Obviously, I agree with you. My comment was meant to elaborate on yours. It such a shame that, as a society, we've become so touchy.
Hey now!! My tire pressure squeezer gauge is a precision instrument...
Inner tube user here: 20 psi feels the best, until you get a flat.
30 psi for dealing with urban situations like sidewalks.
This is for me as a light 60kg rider on 57mm schwalbe Racing Ray/Ralph. At the end of the day..the thumb test is the most accurate. You don't need to know exact psi unless ur a racer/nerd and you want the perfect set-up every time that you tested urself.
Ps: I can run my front tyre at 15 psi if needed
@@X41N3 Tire pressure will always vary depending on your weight. You may be able to get away with 15 psi on the front, but many others could never.
@tabcobra also on your tyre casing/sidewall and if using an insert and skill. For slow careful rides I only notice my front below 12psi, but going with silca numbers is an excellent start. I sometimes like trying to ride up stairs at 25kph.. so the tyre has to be almost rock solid
Why hasn’t tubeless convinced you so far?
@@owensnicholas I'm a cheap fk, only a few local shops are willing to do it. I would have to just try it some day when I can buy a proper inflator, valve thingy and the sealant. I also use an insert on the rear at times for urban stuff or skatepark shenanigans. Also my rims aren't tubeless ready.
Im 234lbs. 2.5 and 2.4 29ers. Running 20psi front and 23psi rear. Tubeless. No inserts. No issues over 3 years at these pressures.
At 3:00, you're debating the inverse relationship between pressure and volume. Makes sense. But then you throw in another variable, the contact patch width, without noting its relationship to either the aforementioned pressure and volume variables. You come to conclude that lower pressure = wider contact patch, which is correct. However, you wrongly follow up that you can run a wider tire "at lower pressure to get that same/similar contact patch" .... same/similar contact patch as what? The narrower tire at higher pressure? This would be wrong. You can actually achieve the same contact patch width on a wider tire at higher pressure as the narrower tire at lower pressure. But we instead run wide tires on low pressure not to achieve the same contact patch as found on narrower tires, but to maximize the contact patch, period.
i have no idea what you've just said , but i agree with you
Well, rim width, tire volume, TPI, ply count and is the rider a lardass or on the cancer diet program?
While I do not recommend the cancer diet program, I run i45's with 3.0 120 TPI single ply tires seeing as cancer and related treatment lightened me up to the point that my bikes were investigating me for harboring Ti and Carbon parts.. 10 psi front, 14 psi rear and I have a great time exploring for more trials zones.
Tire sizes, tire pressure, saddle choice, nothing is more subjective. Well, almost nothing 'ceptin guitar strings!!
14 minutes for it all depends....
That's the entire channel. Every single video these guys make is just "well it depends". Sometimes they get spicy and say "it's personal preference".
@@RisseK1 used to be a lot better. But it's definitely gone downhill where every video is just for views and barely anything useful.
@@RisseK1Don’t forget about all the titles: “What’s THE BEST…”
I’m at 4 and was thinking he wasn’t going to give an answer.
@shonkytonky you saw it coming.
Thanks for this video. I found it very useful and have saved it for later reference.
I didn't watch this video, but I'll take a wild guess: the conclusion is "it depends on your trails, bike, weight, and preferences".
Very nice video! It's a bit of an obsession with the right pressure :-) There is no such thing, Every terrain and every combination of tire, rim and rider and his technique needs a little different pressure. For example, I weigh about 95 kg and I know that on an enduro bike with pressures below 23 PSI, sooner or later I will surely puncture or take off the tire in a corner. So for me, the right pressure is for example somewhere between 23-30 PSI depending on whether I am going to jump on the rock garden is mud or snow or I'm going for a longer ride in dry weather on an XC bike. It should also not be forgotten that when we drive in the winter and inflate the tires in the heat, the pressure during real riding in the cold can be even 5 PSI lower.
I went to my local bike mechanic because i had trouble with wash outs from my front tire. I had the mindset that i needed burlier tires but instead he asked me what tier pressure i had and how i had the fork set up. He could have easily sold me a set of tiers but instead he chose to find the root of the problem. I had to much pressure in my tire and i had to make some changes to my fork set up
What was wrong with the fork set up?
@TivonSanders i hadn't checked the pressure for a while and the rampup chamber on my Öhlins fork was way of, i turned down the high speed compression a few clicks to make it more sensitive and i also turned down the rebound a couple of clicks
I normally ride 125 psi in my main chamber and 210 psi in the rampup chamber, i think the main chamber was 115 psi and the rampup was 130psi before i corrected it. (The rampup chamber should approximately be the double amount of pressure than the main chamber)
Good video Owen, well done getting through the minefield of pressures. It really makes the biggest difference to your ride and doesn't cost anything except a digital gauge. I ride maxxis assegai front with rimpact insert 1,1bar and maxxis Minion DHR rear with rimpact insert and 1,3 bar. Sorry, in Europe we don't work much with psi 😅
@@thomasprior7492 bars 😂 in europe iVe had to manage with psi cause most of the world, videos and everything uses psi so its been easier
It took me awhile to discover the type of Tires I like. I have 130mm rear and 160mm front travel....but I run 18 PSI in the front and 20 PSI in the rear...have not burped a tire since figuring this out...! I currently run Vittoria Agarro's 27.5 X 2.6 on each wheel...works great !!! My eBike weighs 54 lbs.....
You're right, different for everyone. Lost front end a few times on wet tree roots. Best set up to get my confidence back in winter is dh casing Maxxis wetscream or Conti hydrotal on front with slime tubes. Can run them under 10psi if not doing hard hits or drops. Assegai or minion on rear around 20psi.
Wow, didn't realize so much to consider for tire pressure. Definitely plan to start playing around with it
Yeah theres lots of factors - but once you've find the perfect pressure its magic! Enjoy experimenting let us know how you get on!
Cheers
Owen
I keep my 26×1.95 tires@around 52 p.s.i,because I go slow off-road and I also like knobby to the core tires,because on concrete they make that distinct whirring sound.
I’m 215, bike is an SB130. I run 20 front / 21 rear.
I use Tyrewiz and output to my Garmin so I can always see the pressure and if it is out of “spec” at a glance. These are expensive but I love them. If you need to fix a flat you have your gauge build in.
Front: Maxxis Assegai 29x2.50WT 120DPI
3C MAXX Terra EXO+ TR
Rear: Maxxis Minion DHR II 29x2.40WT
3C MAXX Terra EXO+ TR
215kg?
I had three quite hard crashes on 3 consecutive days in spring, until i realisied i hadn't checked my front tire pressure after installing a new tire. Lowered the pressure >> all fixed
I am 190cm and 120kg and run Pirelli Scorpion E bike enduro tires with solid side walls 22lb front 28lb rear and this feels great and has plenty of grip on my Turbo Levo Alloy Comp
Excellent overview on the fundamentals with proper visuals.
Have always gone by apple pressure at front, orange pressure in the rear, but the weighted thumb tip looks better 👍
Never have used the “squeeze test”. I’ve either used the pressure gauge on my floor pump or a tire gauge. So I have found that 23 psi in front and 35 psi in back works best on my riding conditions.
Well explained video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Just got new e-Agarro for my Trek Rail and running around 24psi on front and 26psi on rear. Seems to work for me, but I m a mellow rider so maybe I can pressure down even more. Great topic Owen. Always look forward to your videos and vast knowledge. Cheers!!
I love this video and the presenter - so well explained and engaging. Thank you!
Thank you!
Thank you - thats much appreciated!
Cheers
Owen
Owen, I ride with TPU innertube with sealant and a Tannus Armour Insert and I can run lower pressures here in Shropshire on both of my E-MTB’s. Also this same setup is really good at mitigating against pinch flats. The only downside is the increase in rolling resistance.
I've been saying the same the most videos that talk about setting sag and stuff never talk about the difference that occurs based on your tire pressure. People would tell me "so every time you'll set your shocks" sceptically. Obviously if you're riding different terrains you need to check tire pressure and sag.
I weigh around 225 lbs or roughly 102kgs, plus or minus depending on season and kit. Typically on trail casing tires in 2.6” on the hardtail with a Vitoria enduro insert on the rear, running 20-23psi in front, and 23-27psi out back. In Ohio winters I’ll drop pressures by about 5psi lower fr and rear, mostly for traction and much slower speeds. Regardless I always have the habit of hand checking how the tire compresses every single time I pump up my tires to know how it feels.
Facts, I can ride well with just checking by hand, and getting 20-22 on front and 23-25 on the back works well. Would be nice to get a gauge but so far so good and makes your hand wiser haha
I found this basic calculator is pretty accurate (I think it was originally from Stan's). Take your weight (in pounds) and divide by 7. That's your rear tire pressure. Subtract 2 from that and that's your front tire pressure.
For inner tube riders with narrow tyres perhaps. That's 33psi for me. WAY to high. I run 22r 20f
Yea, that’s definitely too high pressure …
That would be 27psi for me. I run 23-24.
But its very close to my daughter best tire pressure.
I guess this works for light weight rider, not full size dads…
@@MrLapin-LL Hmm. Well, I'm 200 and it works perfect for me.
@@mattwilson5092 that formula works for me when I had aluminum wheels, works perfectly. When I bought carbon wheels, I dropped the pressure a little because of the increased chatter (I'm old and need to go easy on my parts). But, for the aluminum wheels, the formula you suggested was right on the money.
Good starting point if you have a thin tyre but as soon as you put an enduro or DH casing tyre on your bike you can drop like 5-10 psi straight away.
Seems like if I ride varied terrain (mellow, rocky, steep, drops, etc.) I'd need to stop at each different terrain and change my tire pressure. Hardly a practical way to enjoy MTB'ing. Sometimes perfect is the enemy of good.
Thats an odd take of the video. No one stops to change pressures within a ride. You pick a pressure based on the terrain and type of riding you will be doing that day.
thats why getting it right is important so you have grip on the steeps but dont ding your rim on the rocky sections. Perfect would be something that works best in all scenarios for that day
A company actually makes an inflator built-in to their hubs, similar to the Schlesser buggy’s in the Dakar rally during the late 90’s/ early 2000’s. They were able to drop and raise pressure accordingly depending on the surface (sand or rock).
if you are a picnic rider - the answer is: yes you are right 🙂
Common sense would suggest you set up for the roughest ride you're going to hit that day.
I'm an "older" rider similar to Owen, and I run 2 wheelsets with very different tyres on my standard Stumpy. Currently I'm running Conti Xynotals for trail riding (natural woodland, much like off piste FOD, not manicured bike park), and Vittoria Terrinos for spinning out some miles on gravel and daily commuting, and there's 2 things I've noticed over the 30 years or so I've been doing this sort of riding, regardless of which tyre I'm running:
Firstly, tyres tend to find the grip "sweet spot" pressure by themselves given a bit of time. Put a bit of extra air in them, and by riding the same trail over and over they lose pressure relatively quickly, then it plateaus at around the correct pressure, and the rate at which pressure drops slows right down. I'm talking over weeks / months here, not a few hours out riding. Try it, for the trail tyres I whack ~30 psi in, go ride for a week (~50 miles) and they'll drop to about 22-24 psi (which is roughly my sweet spot), then it'll take a couple of months before that drops to the point where they feel too soft which'll only be 2 or 3 psi lower. I get the same with the Terrinos, only they settle around 35/36 psi
Secondly, the grip sweet spot isn't where the tyres are fastest, that's about 15% psi higher. I find I get all the grip in the world around 21/23 psi f/r with the xynotals, and it feels fast, but if I whack an extra 3-4 psi in, everything feels a bit more sketchy grip wise and it feels slower, but in reality this is when I get the fastest times on my local trails according to strava. Similarly with the Terrinos, 40/43 psi is where I'm fastest but they feel at their grippiest in the mid 30's. That said I run the trail tyres at the grippy PSI, because that's where riding is the most fun and feels fastest, even if it is a bit slower in reality.
This of course could just all be a massive coincidence that "works" for riders like me and Owen, it's just something I've noticed over the years with all my tyres regardless of brand, more so with tubeless but with tubes too. Be interesting if anyone else has noticed this.
For me weighing in at 205lb with all my riding gear on, running 26(f)28(r) tubeless no inserts on Continental enduro soft tires. The lowest ill go is 24(f)26(r).
I always use minimum pressure recommended by the tire for front tyre, +1 or +2 for rear
I don't like to bend my tires on the corners. Thats so dangerous! So, I go between 24 to 26 front, and 26 to 28 rear tire. I'm a XCO rider, 75kg, hardtail with 2.2 Chaoyang Phantom tires, tubeless.
I set my tire pressure based on what happens when I rail really hard through a tight berm. If I feel the tire folding over, wobbling, or burping, I go up in pressure until that doesn't happen anymore. I usually end up at 22psi front and 24psi rear with my riding weight of 180 lbs.
I'm also a big fan of tire inserts. I once crushed into my carbon rim and I've popped spokes a number of times. Inserts are the best way to mitigate that without resorting to higher pressure.
a new high bar (LOL) for presentations for this team. thank you.
Low pressure feels great at the bike park until you rail a berm and your tire rolls over like a floppy noodle 😅 Then it's not so great
I ride 27.5” Vittoria Barzo Graphine 2.35” 120 tpi on my Top Fuel 9.9 XTR at 16 lbs in the front and 18-20 lbs in the back. I weigh 115 lbs, and I haven’t had any issues. The sidewalls are pretty firm.
Let me summarize a 14-minute video in two words: " it depends"
Great summary, but hopefully we helped you understand why it depends?
I am a 5'10" 240 pound retired firefighter. And no i am not as round as i am tall. I set my tubless tires at 35 pounds of pressure for all rides. My tires are 2.4 " wide, maxxis DHR rear and Maxxis DHR II Front, and i ride all consitions. My reason is that i have had my tires burp sealent and get pinch flats at lower pressures.
26 psi in the front, 32 in the rear with Cushcore.
I just start at 20 for a new tire/changing season and adjust upwards until traction becomes an obvious issue, to where I subtract 1 psi. When it gets wet I'll drop down substantially.
Been able to run the Minion DHR's at 24f 26r lately. Trails have been at that perfect point between to dry and leaving a barely visible imprint. I have a 10 minute pavement ride one way and I plan for that.
for the assegai in the front i use 19 psi at hot weather and about 21 in cold weather. It feels like it needs more air in the cold to get the same feeling as 19 in a hotter day. And for the rear tyre, I'm currently running a Butcher black Diamond and I could not figure out the best pressure for that one. I was running a Chaoyang Gladiator before, and with 23 psi in the hot weather was pretty good, 25 for colder days. But with the Butcher, even in hot days 25 psi feels a little bit off, but will figure out that one.
18/20. Tubeless. Arizona USA, lots of decomposed granite and rocks.
@@2morecats with ya there mate. Sedona riders always telling me sub-24 is an awful idea but I can’t grab down there and the drops on, say, easy breazy never seem to mind it that low
surprised at the pressures suggested, I ride a hard tail with 2.6 front and rear, Exo+ tyres, no inserts, ride aggressively enduro style rails, all the jumps drops etc at FOD, run as low as 14 front and 16 rear
For a mountain bike with tire widths between 1.95 and 2.5 inches, I generally run 40 pounds per square inch for commuting on asphalt or pavement and drop the pressure down to 30 p.s.i. for off road excursions.
These are my guidelines, you are welcome to adjust them to suit your taste.
The problem is - where to get a good pressure gauge. I have a few digital and mechanical priced from cheap to pretty expansive and EVERY one of them shows different pressure.
Depends on your weight, width of tire and if you're running tubeless. Low as you can while preventing pinch flats. Max tire pressure on pavement.
Helpful information 👏🏼👏🏼
Glad it was helpful!
27/30 works fine for me at 72kg xc hardtail,mostly for wood roads and mixed terrain,for more road distances 50/55 and it rolls like my roadie😄,2.25 rocket ron's front and rear.
80kg rider, Spesh Ebiker, 23.5kg 2019 alloy Levo, with tubeless 2.5" Maxxis / 2.4 Butcher rear, cushcore : 20 psi front, 23 rear
The biggest limit for going lower pressure isn't flatting or hitting the rim, but rather sidewall crumpling while railing the corners. If the sidewalls don't have enough stability I'll easily lose control in the turns and lose speed.
@@axiomic I've been dipping into the low twenties, but found recently as low as 18.5 front and rear feels really nice with my E-MTB cush cores (thicc as they come). 2.5 exo+ tires.. Wondering, have you tried 15-20 psi? Do you lose said stability? Thanks.
@@phakoo23 I think my limit on the front is 19 psi before it starts to lose stability in the turns. But I don't have cushcore on the front. On the rear 22-23 psi feels good, I haven't felt the need to go lower, but I also don't want to risk damaging the rim, which I've done once before.. I ride very rocky trails here in Sydney Australia. Rider + bike weight, and style of riding and type of trails are big factors.
@@axiomic Cheers and thanks for the reply! I think I'll try 19-20 next
On the tyre wall (2" wide), there's a weight/pressure chart and according to that i have to set it to 40psi.
I set my tyre pressure by feel and then measure, I usually find I'm down under 20psi. Tyre manufactures for some strsnge reason put insane pressures on their sidewalls, 40psi would be unusable except on the road.
Good tips!
Cheers
Owen
There seems to be a lot of people ditching their inserts these days. My problem is that I’ve used CushCore and Rockstop for so long, even though I’m running double down casings that I don’t dare try riding without and risking a perfectly good tyre to a puncture.
Thanks for the vid enjoy the content and the tech .what can be said mountain bikes rock 🎉
I'll sue you for braking me thumb! 😂
With so kany variables having very precise gage means nothing. Since we are guessing the right pressure anyways, might as well use thumb or mechanical gage. In the end it is guess work all the same
35 PSI to ride to the trails, then I drop it down to around 25. Then back up for the ride home
I tried scorpion @ the front but returned to Minoin. When the rear is used up it also will run Maxxis. My experience with an E- beke.😊
It depends on weight of rider. For me 25 front 23 rear psi
24" 260 kpa on rear wheel 240 on front 😊commuting never been this great
Lol this clip made me get of my couch to check my tyre pressure
How often do you check your pressure?
Some of nerds would like to be informed about that histeresis that was mentioned a couple of times in this video. Can we get some resources to read about it? Thanks!!!
With insufficient air, the soft rubber tube slips between the tyre bead and the rim on both sides under hard compression. When the tyre rebounds, the tube is pinched and ruptures on both sides. Pinch flats look like a snake bite.
I have cushcore on 2.6 and I have 19 psi in the front and 24psi in the rear.
175 pounds. My favorite pressure for both my Epic HT and V4 Tallboy is 19 PSI, with stock tires. I've tried to fine tune it more several times, but seem to always end up at 19, front and rear. I've never had problems with flats or rim damage even as low as 15. 21 or higher feels too stiff and reduces traction.
I wouldn't say I'm the most hardcore rider, but i do some smaller jumps, drops up to maybe 5 feet, and some rough/chunky stuff.
I dunno. Maybe I'm just odd or crazy.
Haha no harm in that but 19 in the back sure sounds slow. On asphalt or other harder compound with enduro tires I go nowhere with less than 24 in the back
Just start at 20 PSI and figure it out from there
Agree, 5min into this 14min video and I am none the wiser, keep it simple
20 psi is super low. Depends on your body weight and the size of your tyres. I have two bikes, a Mondraker Crafty R with 2.6" tyres and a Specialized Stumpjumper 15 on 2.3" tyres. I run 22.5/27.5 F/R on the Mondraker and 28/31 F/R on the Stumpy. The 2.3" tyres are a lot smaller so you have more chance of dinging a rim and also the tyres that came on the Stumpy are trail casing so the rear tyre folds when I rail through berms (I will put thicker casing on when they wear out). There are so many variables that each person needs to work it out for themselves. If I took your advice and put 20 psi in my Stumpy tyres, I would fold the tyre right off the rim at the first berm. Also worth noting I am 194cm tall and 105kg and I ride hard. Someone who is 60kg and rides slowly would have a much different experience.
@The.JZA. I'm 77kg and ride hard at 18psi Bontrager Brevard 2.5, no CushCore, on an ebike. It's all rider preference regardless of weight and tires. Like I said, start at 20 and go from there: you'll find your preference
Wow, I've been riding bikes for 40 odd years and never had any of those tyre/inner tube issues!
I run a 29x2.60 Vittoria barzos on both ends with full suspension at 15 psi both ends. I weigh in at a whopping 125lbs!! After 5 years of riding I've never had a flat. I ride mostly xc flow trails. I'm sure I'd have to up the pressure on certain situations if I rode those.
the volume of the lastest videos is over 9000 pls
Also check if min pressure is stated on the tire, Vittoria etc
@gmbntech Great content and location; more of this please. What camera and lens did you shoot this with?
Thank you.
Most of the time 19 to 21 up front and 21 to 24 out back on my enduro DH and EEBs. Best lap on my xc bike... 60psi with narrow tyres
Some good stuff in the video and some waffle about hysteresis and pressures, you missed out modern rum sidewalls, the massive benefits of running tubes with modern rims and the additional side wall that the tube provides, some thicker tubes will pinch before thinner ones due to the thickness decreasing the pinch distance, tube rubbers are not all equal, tyre thread quantity and direction on tyres etc etc.
For xc old xc tyres at higher pressures rotate easier than accelerate faster than tubeless but are less compliant but can rip way too easily.
Maxxis Assegai 2.5/ dhr2 2.4 double down casing. 23.5-24psi in front 26.5-27 psi in rear cushcore in rear.
I like less pressure in my mtb tyres 17 or under i cant stand pinging off of the rocks plus i loose tration easily at higher psi ,im light and not good at pushing the bike into the trail .
Always run 2 Bar and adjust depending on how it feels on the trail
Thanks
If clipless is with clips why tubeless is not with tube?
ha ha ha - thats funny!
Well as the nerd I am - the clipless Vs clip naming - goes back to when we had toe straps and clips on our pedals - so the new Automatic mechanism pedals were without the toe-clip and strap so thus got the name clipless - despite them sorta being clip-y!
Cheers
Owen
For riding at lower pressures, like 20 psi and less, it would be great if they would start making the bottom brackets higher. Seems they took "the lower the BB, the better" too far, and it really shows up at low pressures (pedal strikes).
i often go by feel, even low tyre pressures feel to hard for me. any recommended advice to find a sweet spot?
Are you using a digital tyre gauge? If not then it would be worth trying one to see how accurate your pump is. If you are then there are a few different factors for you to consider. Tyre pressure will feel different at different rider weight, so for a lighter rider an even lower pressure may work better. The other think is you could be confusing the feeling of the tyres with the suspension.
You can buy electric tyre pumps with a gauge in them for around £35. Not to heavy and the size of a water bottle to carry on your ride.
Which bike has the best rolling resistance? In comparison between roadbike, crossbike and XC mountain bike. The following video explains very nicely why the road bike is the slowest on the bumpy roads and still feels fast.
GCN - What's The Fastest Bike For Riding The Cobbles Of Paris-Roubaix ?
I have 29X 2.2 tires on my mountain bike and I run 15 psi front, 18 psi rear on single track trails
On my laufey I usually run 21psi in the front and 25-26psi rear. That's running 29x2.6. On my Rallon. I run 21psi in a 29x2.5. On the rear I usually run 25psi. How ever I have run 24psi. That's in either a 29x2.4 or a 27.5x2.4. As where I normally iis mellower than the FOD. I am looking at using slightly lower pressures.
The pressure on the tire sidewall is the right pressure. Please hosts, ride your bikes at the indicated tire pressure and please show us!!! aha
@gmbntech what's the best tyre/tire for a mountainbike, that has to deal with 90% concrete and asphalt when it's in everyday use?
i.e. lighter weight, light rolling resistance, less but enough DH-bulletproofness.
Nice insight.
Can you do a gravel bike specific video please?
Wrong channel mate 😂
I've been riding decades and never used a gauge in my life,I just pump them up till the firmness I like and that's it....ha 😎
Same here! On the other side, theres content makers and they need to keep pumping videos😁
@@fudganuld that's why the title says 97% of riders have wrong pressure
I never used to have a gauge or just used the one on the pump, but after getting a digital gauge and experimenting it really made a difference. I totally recommend it.
I wonder if riding a bike to the trail head on a paved road for 30 minutes causes enough heat to increase tire pressure psi?
Ooo - thats a interesting thought - I mean yes on paper it will but I feel it won't increase pressures too much - just as the loads - through the tyres aren't that high - compared to a moto bike or car - but yep interesting to think more about it!
Cheers
Owen
I run 38 psi on xc long rides anything less i feel it drags and takes more energy to keep a fast pace
Lovely, now how much pressure should there be? Might want to consider answering the question posed in the title of the video.
M = Mass = kilogram
g = Gravity = meter per second square (m/s^2)
Weight = M x g = kilogram meter per second square = Newton
How about some links to said tire calculators. Or even a heres the same trail and pressures for 3 different rider weights.
Throw us a ballpark before just a vague "its totally up to you"
Its been up to me and Im still running 45psi
Try a lower pressure and see how it feels, if you don't like it go back up or even lower. Experimenting with tyre pressure is the only way you will find out 👍
On sl ebike with inserts Iam at 13 psi front 18 back, 2,3 specialized trail tires.
I know a few who don’t even bother with a gauge. They just feel the tire and get on with it. Drives me nuts. Also, not sure why a digital gauge is any improvement on an old school dial gauge
Digital gauge, provides greater accuracy.
35 years of normal road biking and mountain biking and I just bought a Fat Tire e-bike and everything I know about tire pressures was thrown out the window. 6-F and 7-R is just not right Lol........
7 is the same as 101PSI, pretty old school standard road pressure.
@@hepphepps8356 he meant 6-7 PSI. it is a fat tire bike!
2 Bars / 28psi front and rear on my steel Hardtail.