I usually set up the lens in the menu and that saves the info on what focal length and aperture I used to take a picture. I also take a whole series of pics with one lens and then transfer the files to a folder with that lens name on it. I do this operation all of the time and Yes it slows down the process but at least I know what lens I shot with what camera. But here is the thing once I finish the video and publish it I delete the pics and original video that I created and just save the video that is for the public which saves me a whole lot of space on the external storage space. I only save the photos that I really enjoy and want to share. Most of them are discarded and I can view them on my video and watch anytime for nostalgia. Cheers!
I have adapted most of my L39 lenses to M mount with adapter that has a milled out area for 6-bit code, and for those that doesn't, I printed out paper template for them. I was going to use my modeling enamel paint to code them with higher durability; this was a side project that I have never get to. But now with this 3D printed templated and marker, this makes the process so much easier! Going to order me one of those template right now!
Hello Matt. Thank you for your information. Personally, in my SL2S, I only assign the focal length. And just before importing my DNGs into Capture One, I go through Camera Raw to assign the brand's focal length (my Voigtlander 35.50mm APO LANTHAR, 90mm APO SKOPAR), either I use Voigtlander or Leica for the 90mm APO SKOPAR.
Following your original post on this I ordered the Code template worked a treat not only Voigtlãnder lens but also some non 6 bit old Leica Lenses. Pen also worked a treat. The Template arrived fairly quickly.
OK, I have coded LTM's with the LTM > M-mount adapters which have the 6-bit encoding grooves cut into them. The grooves are helpful as otherwise the encoding tends to rub off. Also, I got some pretty weird results with some lenses encoded this way. So exercise caution and test the results. Coming home with a large batch of muddled photos is not a pleasant experience. That said, this seems a great idea and a solution to non 6-bit encoded lenses without the hassle of manually encoded through the menu. Thanks again for being aware and for sharing what you have learned. Cheers
What a splendid little tool! Thanks! I have a paper one that I DIYed. It's never been terribly reliable. More of a PITA, actually. I just placed an order. The Akara labs person has chosen a crappy time to go on vacation, just as you are flooding them with orders. There's a banner on their site that says they won't be shipping anything for the rest of May.
haha, we were in America when you guys all ordered. We managed to get them out while jetlagged as soon as we got back. A manic time but hopefully everyone that ordered one had it arrive soon after! :D
Hello Matt, great idea. Unfortunately it did not work with black coding yet. Tried two lenses (Voigtländer 28 + 75 mm) Will buy a white pen as well maybe that helps
The problem is that I own both Leica and some of the Voigtlander “equivalent” and I wouldn’t know which one was which. It would be nice if Leica would allow you to do custom codes in camera so the camera can write in the meta data the brand of the lens.
Hi Matt. I definitely like you, the only problem is the recording quality. There is always a disturbing resonance which makes it difficult to understand
Thanks Dan, I use professional podcast mics but I will try to do some more research (I know some videos are better than others for audio), perhaps the latest one is better. I do try to learn from my mistakes.
I recently bought a LTM Nokton 50mm f1.5 ASP in superb condition to use on my Leica IIIf (with viewfinder). I thought I’d try if out on my Fuji mirrorless camera first and was surprised at the flat, low contrast images I was getting. Detail also seemed soft. So I did the old brick wall test comparing it to my Fuji 50mm f2 and Pentax 43mm f1.9 and the results were disappointing. Both those lenses out resolve the Nokton ASP by a significant margin and they have more contrast. I can’t find much detail about the Nokton 50mm f1.5 ASP online but one test gave it a good review. I have to disagree. After spending a day walking around taking many street and architecture photos I’d have to say it’s the weakest 50mm I’ve used in 40yrs of photography. And I don’t think there was an issue with the lens. It was in beautiful condition, no haze or focusing issues. Just flat and low detail images. The seller was surprised and disappointed when I returned it but I wouldn’t wish that Voightlander on anyone ….
Another option that worked for older pre-coded Leica lenses and Voigtlander lenses I used to have, but not for the Zeiss lenses, is a replacement M-Mount baseplate with the 6-bit coding wells ready to be marked. Several Chinese vendors sell these on eBay but none work with Zeiss M-Mount lenses because Zeiss has their mounting screws in different positions than Leica or Voigtlander.
This pen works well - Pilot DR 02 Drawing Pen - Pigment Ink Fineliner Marker - 0.6mm Tip - Black Ink I have used on 2 voigtlander and a Zeiss lens without any problem with my M10R 👍👍👍👍
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Unfortunately it is a bit on the cheap side but I would love to get to a point to be able to sponsor. I tend to lean on pricing for community rather than business, I guess I just got a bit salty when I went to buy a mass manufactured thumb grip and it was £240 for my M11. I didn't want to feel like I was taking advantage of people and adding 'Leica tax' just because. Not helpful for growing a small business but I guess it's something to wrestle with and get the right balance. If the business grows and we're in a position to sponsor then we won't be shy supporting, life's too short not to have fun and see what can be done. :D
@@HenleyBailey thanks don't worry i'm not looking for a kick back. I know you are a small setup currently so happy to help you. I think users will appreciate your reasonable prices.
I've been doing something similar using two pieces of masking tape and lining up the six slots on the camera to the lens. It does work, the camera can be tricked into thinking the lens is a Leica lens. I use a Staedler thin-tip permanent marker, and the only problem i've found is that after a few times removing/attaching the lens, the ink has worn off and I have to re-apply. I'd love to find something more permanent, but that could still come off with a bit of work.
Great point, I spoke to one of my clever Patreons on this, he uses model paint and recessed dots to prevent any wear. (You can get replacement metal mounts or grind them yourself.
Ordered! Was looking for a simple solution that did not involve replacing the back of the lens or sending it off somewhere. Thanks for the suggestion. I can report back on how successful it is. Do you think it would help the accuracy at all to also add the white marks, or does the camera only read the dark marks?
Would this be any help with the older mid century lenses? Can't imagine the 6 bit profiles would be helpful in correcting these, maybe only something like a 50m summilux v2?
Some comparison photos with and without this workaround might help settle the debate about how much using a Laica profile changes a voigtlander shot image - for better or for worse.
I have this tool and it's great! But two things to know: 1. The marker is CRITICAL. Sharpie has not worked for me, nor has the Pilot marker I tried (Extra Fine Point Permanent Marker). I'm going to keep trying, but up to now, only paint poems have worked for me, and those rub off. 2. Voigtlander lenses are the most ideal for this process because that have an recessed line on the lens mount exactly where the code goes, so even using the paint pens, the marks have not worn off on my Voigtlander lenses. I can't say the same for my LLL Elcan. Otherwise, brilliant product!
This seems more a Leica-issue than a Voigtlander-issue. For other mounts, such as Sony E-mount, the Voigtlander lenses do have contacts and the focus ring also interacts with the camera's focus assist tools, which makes them nicer to use on cameras with only an electronic viewfinder. Hence Voigtlander seems prepared to implement this, but may not get the necessary licenses/cooperation from Leica to do so. This 'hack' shouldn't be necessary.
Interesting, thanks Brad. You might be able to turn of the profile affect in LR? I'm very low tech so had only planned to use it to keep track of what lens I used.
50 summicron! Selling this lens is the biggest mistake anyone can make. Even if you're not using it right now, keep it. I lucked out because I only shoot 50 and 35, so my 50 cron is coded and my 35 vl isnt, so it just remembers the last thing I chose, and it switches.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I forget which one it is, but I heard somewhere that Leica started manufacturing one of their film cameras again. I think you hit the nail on the head in another video where you sort of hinted that vintage needs to come back to defeat AI
I bought one too, but realised that the code sheet supplied was not comprehensive. Many Leica lenses don't appear on the list. For example 28mm 1.4 ASPH... but if you search for images of 6 bit coded lenses you can soon fill in the missing. For example: 28mm 1.4 ASPH = 110110
Thanks, Matt. Ordered a kit! I have tried marking some of my lenses in the past, but I could never get it right. This tool should position the code very precisely, so I'm looking forward to it!
I bought this and it works first time so thanks Matt I have 6 bit coded my elmarit 90mm my Zeiss sonnar and soon my VL 35mm 1.2 . Fantastic little product
Hi! This sounds interesting to me. BUT: how will the body know, which aperture you were using and when and to what degree correct for vignetting? Because stopped down there certainly will be no vignette to get corrected. Regards, Stephan
I guess it works like normal EXIF data where you tell the camera the maximum aperture and the EXIF then stops down as you move the lens. (It does that even with non-coded lenses but guesses)
I find this problematic. Imho it would be better to change it in the exifs. Personally, I have another way, I tag the pictures with the name of the lens. Or buy coded Leica lenses
Thanks Steve, If you only have a few lenses buy the rear mounts on Ebay with code indents. Equally if it's easy to keep track of lenses yes tag in post in LR
This may be a dumb question, but I am new to Leica m and thinking about buying a 50mm lens. If a lens is not 6 bit coded, will my frame lines still change automatically when a 50 is attached to the camera? im using a M 240.
I have had this tool for a while, but I have not coded any of my Leitz, or Voigtlander lenses as I really see no real benefit to it. The camera will probably recognise the lens and report the aperture etc in the exif, but any correction applied to the files will not be accurate as the profiles are set for Leica or Leitz lenses and not Voigtlander. In any case, this is a more cost effective way of coding than sending the lens away or buying coded rear plates.
I'm constantly forgetting to change the lens profile in my camera - I like your idea to take a pic of my hand, but if I'm already forgetting to change the profile I'm going to forget that too. I just bought the thing; we'll see how it works for me. I researched the exact pen and bought that too (Amazon). Cheers.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I just got the Akara Kit and used it with the exact pen you use in your video. I used it on my Voight 35mm f/2 Ultron, Voight 28 mm f/2 Ultron, Voight 50 mm f/1.5 Nokton, and Voight 75mm f/1.5 Nokton. Went on easy and thus far has worked flawlessly
There are several 3D print templates for these on the Leica form but this seems better because it has the notch to keep it all aligned. It cost me about the same to get one 3D printed as this costs anyway. Talking of 3D printing, there’s also templates on the forum for bayonet rings to cover up the shiny front of CV lenses. They’re fantastic - I got one printed for my 35 f1.5 Nokton and it looks so much better without the shiny chrome front.
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom It’s not a company, just a guy putting the instructions out for free for others to print. I used a guy on Etsy to print for me by pointing him to the instructions on Thingyverse
At first sight this looks like a great idea (why didn't I think of this first...), but a number of commentators have argued that hard wiring the image with the incorrect lens details will cause problems down the road in processing. For example, there is the question of whether the straight substitution of Leica 50/f2 for VM 50/f2 is sufficient. Many YT channels have portrayed the VM 50/f2 APO LANTHAR to be more similar to the Leica 50/f1.4 Someone with a fuller suite of Leica and VM lenses than me might like to demonstrate the magnitude of the problems thst such "miscoding" could cause.
Hi David yes, it's common place in the Leica M world to code your non-Leica lenses to a similar lens. As you say it's good to experiment and see which profile may suit a specific lens. As mentioned i'm not looking for technically perfect images with my more creative arty style and I will just use to remember which lens I used. For pixel peepers they will need to check with and without profiles added to ensure they are happy with the result. If not, just wipe off the pen mark.
Hi Matt✌✌ a good alternative and is also great. I use the ExifTool for my archiving so I can also enter my Exif data in Lightroom as I mainly use old lenses. With Leicalenses at least the newer ones are no problem as they are also stored. Top video and thumbs OBLIGATORY up. Lg Anderl
Thank you for the video. I already ordered it - was planning this for a long time. Absolutely helpful to identify which lens is used!! I am also using a mix of Voigtländer and Leica lenses on my M10-P
Does it work on conductivity? I imagine it might not last that long. Maybe it would be a good idea to clean the lens with an alcohol wipe first to make sure there isn't any grease. Cool product, I wish there was something similar I could use for my Sony camera - flashcards are my current solution.
I 6 bit coded my CV 28/2 & 35/2 Ultron II with an old Match Technical coding kit and it worked great and will code my LLL Elcan when I get it. Also thanks for the heads up on the Elcan hood I asked you about today.
imho the biggest problem is that they dont have the same rangefinder following cam. some of them have a flat disc pushing back like 28 ultron and some of them have a ring that is tilted with an angle. Depending on your cameras rangefinder adjustment (the arm length and the cam eccentric position) this means that some of the lenses will focus perfectly some will be off by like 5-10 cms. this is not just with voigtlander but with some leica lenses too. The Chinese have the best solution where all of the newer ones are flat and you can adjust the pushing of the cam on the lens. honestly IMHO all lenses should be like that but calibrated from factory
Thanks Matt!! I just did it, let's see if it works! Maybe there is something worn out with my Leica M10, basically it just recognises the new version of the Leica lens as the Summilux 50 V2 and doesn't recognise the others, I think Leica tries to force me to buy the new lens.. but it won't to happen .... 😅
Greetings Matt! I am a long time analogue follower of your presentations. I take delight in not having the foggiest idea what 6 bit coded means. This must in part be explained by the delight I experienced in 1955 when I first developed a roll of orthochromatic film under a red light. That delight has stayed with me till today; I need no 6 bit codes in my old fashioned darkroom.
Haha, as you probably know I've shot most lenses for Leica M mount (to try to make reviews for all lenses for you guys). I even sold some top Leica lenses and replaced with Voigtlanders. For my B&W work I like the Voigtlanders but use all brands
So after messing up with your lenses with this “tool” you not only have the wrong lens saved in the EXIF data but also a completely incompatible lens profile baked into the image? You can’t be serious recommending this…
He hasn’t messed up his lenses, he showed you how to remove the marks if needed. The purpose of identifying the lenses was to know which focal length when showing us examples. I for one found it a good idea.😊
If the 6 bit coding enables the camera to make specific adjustments for the optical properties of each model of Leica lens then, yes, this will fool the camera into making totally inappropriate adjustments for a different make of lens with a different optical formula.
Did you watch the same video? I think you refer to coding say a Voigtlander 75mm f1.5 as a 75mm f1.4 lens (which have a completely different look). As you probably know there are no codes for non-Leica brand lenses so it's normal for Leica users to use the nearest Leica code for their similar FL/aperture lens. If you don't like it, don't worry, just wipe it off! Super easy.
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Thanks Matt. You always find new ways for me to spend my money. You are definitely an "influencer"
Haha thanks and sorry! At least this one is a cheaper item ..and super useful!
Voightlander lenses IS why I found you. I love these lenses. Not perfect but totally fun!
Ah great, thanks! I'm glad we can finally code them :)
I usually set up the lens in the menu and that saves the info on what focal length and aperture I used to take a picture. I also take a whole series of pics with one lens and then transfer the files to a folder with that lens name on it. I do this operation all of the time and Yes it slows down the process but at least I know what lens I shot with what camera. But here is the thing once I finish the video and publish it I delete the pics and original video that I created and just save the video that is for the public which saves me a whole lot of space on the external storage space. I only save the photos that I really enjoy and want to share. Most of them are discarded and I can view them on my video and watch anytime for nostalgia. Cheers!
Great, yes I mark my folders with the lens used and often photo my lens (instead of hand) before changing so I can track what I've used.
I have adapted most of my L39 lenses to M mount with adapter that has a milled out area for 6-bit code, and for those that doesn't, I printed out paper template for them. I was going to use my modeling enamel paint to code them with higher durability; this was a side project that I have never get to. But now with this 3D printed templated and marker, this makes the process so much easier! Going to order me one of those template right now!
Our skilled Patreons think alike. Tobi does the paint/ back combo for a more pro job
Hello Matt. Thank you for your information. Personally, in my SL2S, I only assign the focal length. And just before importing my DNGs into Capture One, I go through Camera Raw to assign the brand's focal length (my Voigtlander 35.50mm APO LANTHAR, 90mm APO SKOPAR), either I use Voigtlander or Leica for the 90mm APO SKOPAR.
That is the way to do it 👌
Great, I guess this works if you remember which lens you use. My Lumix S5 is like that where you can assign the FL for IBIS
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Easier for me, because I mainly use the 50mm APO LANTHAR
Following your original post on this I ordered the Code template worked a treat not only Voigtlãnder lens but also some non 6 bit old Leica Lenses. Pen also worked a treat. The Template arrived fairly quickly.
Great stuff Peter, no problem. Yes works with most M lenses I’ve tried
OK, I have coded LTM's with the LTM > M-mount adapters which have the 6-bit encoding grooves cut into them. The grooves are helpful as otherwise the encoding tends to rub off. Also, I got some pretty weird results with some lenses encoded this way. So exercise caution and test the results. Coming home with a large batch of muddled photos is not a pleasant experience. That said, this seems a great idea and a solution to non 6-bit encoded lenses without the hassle of manually encoded through the menu. Thanks again for being aware and for sharing what you have learned. Cheers
Thanks Sandy, yes sorry I forgot to mention coding LTM adapters. Good tip to check if you like the results (if not wipe off the marks)
The weird results are Obvious...The Leica profile used isn't correct for the used non Leica lens!! Logic!!
Sounds handy, also for older Leica lenses that aren't 6 bit coded! Nice tip thanks!
Thanks Hidde, yes 100%, any M lens
What a splendid little tool! Thanks! I have a paper one that I DIYed. It's never been terribly reliable. More of a PITA, actually. I just placed an order. The Akara labs person has chosen a crappy time to go on vacation, just as you are flooding them with orders. There's a banner on their site that says they won't be shipping anything for the rest of May.
Oh no, yes it’s only a small setup so he probably received 12mths of orders within a week haha. Sorry for the timing!
haha, we were in America when you guys all ordered. We managed to get them out while jetlagged as soon as we got back. A manic time but hopefully everyone that ordered one had it arrive soon after! :D
wow .. this is great and answer for me as I do have a lot of none coded lenses... Just ordered one Thanks for this tips ... see you soon :-)
Thanks Grom! See you in London
Thanks for the video.
Two of my three Leica M-mount lenses are not coded. I will try this product.
Great, no problem!
Hello Matt, great idea. Unfortunately it did not work with black coding yet. Tried two lenses (Voigtländer 28 + 75 mm) Will buy a white pen as well maybe that helps
Sorry to hear. Perhaps try a different black pen
Great video as always Matt!!!
Bought this coding kit online recently. What a brilliant idea. Wanted it to code my older Leica lenses.
Great and thanks! Me too!
The problem is that I own both Leica and some of the Voigtlander “equivalent” and I wouldn’t know which one was which. It would be nice if Leica would allow you to do custom codes in camera so the camera can write in the meta data the brand of the lens.
Yes that would help!
Hi Matt. I definitely like you, the only problem is the recording quality. There is always a disturbing resonance which makes it difficult to understand
Thanks Dan, I use professional podcast mics but I will try to do some more research (I know some videos are better than others for audio), perhaps the latest one is better. I do try to learn from my mistakes.
Thanks Matt this is great as I have VL and Zeiss lenses. When you do the code will it trigger the in camera (SL2-S) stabilisation
Yes it should trigger the right stability for the given FL. I don't own that camera but it's my understanding.
Excellent device! As always Great Video! Cheers!
Agreed.. and thanks!
Great recommendation. And your new M10 Presets as well. All in one video 😁
Thanks Paul! I don't remember putting presets in the video but I do some many videos I forget!
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom The link to the presets was in the details!
@@PaulTimlett ah! Yes they are listed under all 400+ videos :)
This is amazing !
Yes! Great little tool.
Thanks Matt, just ordered my Set. , you should get something from the company as they are even using this video on their page :-)
Great stuff and thanks!
I recently bought a LTM Nokton 50mm f1.5 ASP in superb condition to use on my Leica IIIf (with viewfinder). I thought I’d try if out on my Fuji mirrorless camera first and was surprised at the flat, low contrast images I was getting. Detail also seemed soft. So I did the old brick wall test comparing it to my Fuji 50mm f2 and Pentax 43mm f1.9 and the results were disappointing. Both those lenses out resolve the Nokton ASP by a significant margin and they have more contrast. I can’t find much detail about the Nokton 50mm f1.5 ASP online but one test gave it a good review. I have to disagree. After spending a day walking around taking many street and architecture photos I’d have to say it’s the weakest 50mm I’ve used in 40yrs of photography. And I don’t think there was an issue with the lens. It was in beautiful condition, no haze or focusing issues. Just flat and low detail images. The seller was surprised and disappointed when I returned it but I wouldn’t wish that Voightlander on anyone ….
Sorry to hear. Most Voigtlander lenses are great (for me) but some I skipped and the 1.5 modern version is one of them
Another option that worked for older pre-coded Leica lenses and Voigtlander lenses I used to have, but not for the Zeiss lenses, is a replacement M-Mount baseplate with the 6-bit coding wells ready to be marked. Several Chinese vendors sell these on eBay but none work with Zeiss M-Mount lenses because Zeiss has their mounting screws in different positions than Leica or Voigtlander.
Thanks William, great tip! Yes this is what my Patreon friend in Germany does. He sent me a link last night to this.
Some of the cheap M39 adapters have the wells in them already - easy to paint!
This pen works well - Pilot DR 02 Drawing Pen - Pigment Ink Fineliner Marker - 0.6mm Tip - Black Ink
I have used on 2 voigtlander and a Zeiss lens without any problem with my M10R 👍👍👍👍
Great! Thanks for sharing your pen info!
They SHOULD sponsor you! I might try this. Thanks!
Haha yes, sadly to cheap a product I think!
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Unfortunately it is a bit on the cheap side but I would love to get to a point to be able to sponsor. I tend to lean on pricing for community rather than business, I guess I just got a bit salty when I went to buy a mass manufactured thumb grip and it was £240 for my M11. I didn't want to feel like I was taking advantage of people and adding 'Leica tax' just because. Not helpful for growing a small business but I guess it's something to wrestle with and get the right balance.
If the business grows and we're in a position to sponsor then we won't be shy supporting, life's too short not to have fun and see what can be done. :D
@@HenleyBailey thanks don't worry i'm not looking for a kick back. I know you are a small setup currently so happy to help you. I think users will appreciate your reasonable prices.
I've been doing something similar using two pieces of masking tape and lining up the six slots on the camera to the lens.
It does work, the camera can be tricked into thinking the lens is a Leica lens.
I use a Staedler thin-tip permanent marker, and the only problem i've found is that after a few times removing/attaching the lens, the ink has worn off and I have to re-apply.
I'd love to find something more permanent, but that could still come off with a bit of work.
Great point, I spoke to one of my clever Patreons on this, he uses model paint and recessed dots to prevent any wear. (You can get replacement metal mounts or grind them yourself.
This is another very helpful bideo
Thanks Richard! I was keen to share as soon as I found it as I know it will help so many people
Ordered! Was looking for a simple solution that did not involve replacing the back of the lens or sending it off somewhere. Thanks for the suggestion. I can report back on how successful it is. Do you think it would help the accuracy at all to also add the white marks, or does the camera only read the dark marks?
Great, it works without white marks, I got 100% accuracy with only black marks once I'd had a few goes
Would this be any help with the older mid century lenses? Can't imagine the 6 bit profiles would be helpful in correcting these, maybe only something like a 50m summilux v2?
Yes from what I know it corrects for vignetting on the older Noctilux etc (but I've not tried it yet)
this is brilliant - thanks for sharing it!
Agreed, I was happy to spread the word!
This is brilliant because none of my lenses are coded. Thanks for the info Matt! - Edit: just ordered one 👍
Great , no problem!
Most informative video on youtube 👍🏼
Purchased mine while watching your video 😂
Thanks Maurice! Happy to try to help fellow Leica users
Great video. However, I don't think there an equivilant lens profile for my VOIGTLANDER Nokton MC 40mm F1.4 VM.
Yes some lenses that were never made by Leica will not have a code. I will likely try a similar code such as 40mm f2
Some comparison photos with and without this workaround might help settle the debate about how much using a Laica profile changes a voigtlander shot image - for better or for worse.
Good idea. I’ll add it to my list!
Summicron-M 50mm f/2 (III), Summicron-M 50mm f/2 (IV, V), APO-Summicron-M 50mm f/2 (Vl) which one to use on V Lanthar APO 50mm ?
No set answer, I would try the obvious answer, the APO and when find time try the others too and see which results you like the most.
What if you just choose the lens in the settings? Is it not the same?
Yes you can do that. Just the same.
I have this tool and it's great! But two things to know:
1. The marker is CRITICAL. Sharpie has not worked for me, nor has the Pilot marker I tried (Extra Fine Point Permanent Marker). I'm going to keep trying, but up to now, only paint poems have worked for me, and those rub off.
2. Voigtlander lenses are the most ideal for this process because that have an recessed line on the lens mount exactly where the code goes, so even using the paint pens, the marks have not worn off on my Voigtlander lenses. I can't say the same for my LLL Elcan.
Otherwise, brilliant product!
Thanks for the info! Yes I expect the pen to wear off and I will need to re-apply.
To avoid the paint wearing off - try coating with clear lacquer?
I think you can get a pen with oil paint that will last longer the the "permanent" ink pens, else an old brush with oil paint can do it 😊
Excellent tip thanks!
Does this device work all fine w. a LEICA M8 as well ?
Yes it's not camera specific
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Thanks Matt
Now if they could come up with a way to convert your non coded leica to a coded one, that would be cool.
Just use the same tool, any M lens
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I meant the camera.
This seems more a Leica-issue than a Voigtlander-issue. For other mounts, such as Sony E-mount, the Voigtlander lenses do have contacts and the focus ring also interacts with the camera's focus assist tools, which makes them nicer to use on cameras with only an electronic viewfinder. Hence Voigtlander seems prepared to implement this, but may not get the necessary licenses/cooperation from Leica to do so. This 'hack' shouldn't be necessary.
100% I just use Voigtlander as an example. The same is true for all similar lenses for Leica M
I prefer to edit RAWs. If you code VM 28/2 to Leica 28/2 you get weird distortion and vignetting. I don't find that helpfull.
Interesting, thanks Brad. You might be able to turn of the profile affect in LR? I'm very low tech so had only planned to use it to keep track of what lens I used.
50 summicron! Selling this lens is the biggest mistake anyone can make. Even if you're not using it right now, keep it.
I lucked out because I only shoot 50 and 35, so my 50 cron is coded and my 35 vl isnt, so it just remembers the last thing I chose, and it switches.
I sold it, then re-bought after getting a good deal
@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom can't get away from the greatest every day 50mm lens ever made 😀
Wanted to say hi and be the first to like.
Just ordered from Ankara Labs. Going to make my photo “life” easier. Thanks for this info.
Thanks!!
Great stuff, there might be a slight delay shipping. I told them there might be a few more orders than normal coming through haha.
Leave it to you, Mat, to find some neat simple tool to accomplish you ends. You ware as giddy as a 12 yo at Christmas with your success! LOL.
Haha I'm easily pleased and love the simple things in life!
I had to google what that was. I still shoot film... I'm a fossil!!!!
Fossils are way cooler! I was born in the wrong era for sure.. Fossil cameras coming soon.. nice ones :)
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I forget which one it is, but I heard somewhere that Leica started manufacturing one of their film cameras again.
I think you hit the nail on the head in another video where you sort of hinted that vintage needs to come back to defeat AI
thanks Matt just ordered 1
Hey Peter, great! Really useful little tool to keep track of what lens we use.
I bought one too. Fantastic idea and will save me loads of time👍👍👍
I bought one too, but realised that the code sheet supplied was not comprehensive. Many Leica lenses don't appear on the list. For example 28mm 1.4 ASPH... but if you search for images of 6 bit coded lenses you can soon fill in the missing. For example: 28mm 1.4 ASPH = 110110
Thanks, Matt. Ordered a kit! I have tried marking some of my lenses in the past, but I could never get it right. This tool should position the code very precisely, so I'm looking forward to it!
No problem! Yes it works for me
Its working !!!!!!!!!! \o/ I just bit also the 50mm 1.2 ( W,W,B,B,B,W)
Great, yes it seems to work first time for most lenses.
Old trick for Leica bodies and Leica lenses but I doubt Leicas'M bodies make full corrections. With DXO in post you should have full correction.
Ah yes good thinking re. M bodies.
I bought this and it works first time so thanks Matt I have 6 bit coded my elmarit 90mm my Zeiss sonnar and soon my VL 35mm 1.2 . Fantastic little product
Thank for being an early watcher!
Hi! This sounds interesting to me. BUT: how will the body know, which aperture you were using and when and to what degree correct for vignetting? Because stopped down there certainly will be no vignette to get corrected. Regards, Stephan
I guess it works like normal EXIF data where you tell the camera the maximum aperture and the EXIF then stops down as you move the lens. (It does that even with non-coded lenses but guesses)
😊
Thanks!
I find this problematic. Imho it would be better to change it in the exifs. Personally, I have another way, I tag the pictures with the name of the lens. Or buy coded Leica lenses
Thanks Steve, If you only have a few lenses buy the rear mounts on Ebay with code indents. Equally if it's easy to keep track of lenses yes tag in post in LR
@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom wow, interesting, I didn't you can buy backs. I thought you have to make it yourself
This may be a dumb question, but I am new to Leica m and thinking about buying a 50mm lens. If a lens is not 6 bit coded, will my frame lines still change automatically when a 50 is attached to the camera? im using a M 240.
Yes it’s mechanical so happens automatically
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom thank you! Purchasing my LLL elcan right now 😂😂
@@DayumMarq there’s a discount code on MrLeica.com
I have had this tool for a while, but I have not coded any of my Leitz, or Voigtlander lenses as I really see no real benefit to it. The camera will probably recognise the lens and report the aperture etc in the exif, but any correction applied to the files will not be accurate as the profiles are set for Leica or Leitz lenses and not Voigtlander. In any case, this is a more cost effective way of coding than sending the lens away or buying coded rear plates.
Yes the rear plate is a nice more permanent approach for important lenses (to you). My Patreon friend in Germany does this.
Saw this last week on YT, it's a great tool and so simpel one may wonder why they didn't invent this earlier. Great find and good explanation.
🎉😊
Yes a Patreon shared their original promo video to me and I thought I need to contact this guy and tell more people :) Thanks!
Thanks. Looks like a useful piece of kit. Still waiting for mine to arrive.
Thanks, yes it's really handy! (I think there might be a slight delay with shipping so be patient)
I'm constantly forgetting to change the lens profile in my camera - I like your idea to take a pic of my hand, but if I'm already forgetting to change the profile I'm going to forget that too.
I just bought the thing; we'll see how it works for me.
I researched the exact pen and bought that too (Amazon).
Cheers.
I do forget too sometimes if i'm changing a lot but I try to remember if important to do so (for lens testing etc)
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom I just got the Akara Kit and used it with the exact pen you use in your video. I used it on my Voight 35mm f/2 Ultron, Voight 28 mm f/2 Ultron, Voight 50 mm f/1.5 Nokton, and Voight 75mm f/1.5 Nokton. Went on easy and thus far has worked flawlessly
using this for ages. 3D printed shape is a real plus.
Great.. yes I'm probably late to the party as usual! :)
😊
Thanks!
There are several 3D print templates for these on the Leica form but this seems better because it has the notch to keep it all aligned. It cost me about the same to get one 3D printed as this costs anyway.
Talking of 3D printing, there’s also templates on the forum for bayonet rings to cover up the shiny front of CV lenses. They’re fantastic - I got one printed for my 35 f1.5 Nokton and it looks so much better without the shiny chrome front.
Could you provide a link?
Thanks Ian! Yes I might share the cover up in a future vid. I chat with the company to help test/ suggest
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom It’s not a company, just a guy putting the instructions out for free for others to print. I used a guy on Etsy to print for me by pointing him to the instructions on Thingyverse
Nice ! On my side zero out of 2 !
Oh no, try a different pen
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Idid succeed on the 35 Voiglander
The TT Artisan 50mm f1,4 no luck 4 pens already ...
@@TheChewbee I’ll try my TTA 50/1.4 when I have time
At first sight this looks like a great idea (why didn't I think of this first...), but a number of commentators have argued that hard wiring the image with the incorrect lens details will cause problems down the road in processing. For example, there is the question of whether the straight substitution of Leica 50/f2 for VM 50/f2 is sufficient. Many YT channels have portrayed the VM 50/f2 APO LANTHAR to be more similar to the Leica 50/f1.4
Someone with a fuller suite of Leica and VM lenses than me might like to demonstrate the magnitude of the problems thst such "miscoding" could cause.
Hi David yes, it's common place in the Leica M world to code your non-Leica lenses to a similar lens. As you say it's good to experiment and see which profile may suit a specific lens. As mentioned i'm not looking for technically perfect images with my more creative arty style and I will just use to remember which lens I used. For pixel peepers they will need to check with and without profiles added to ensure they are happy with the result. If not, just wipe off the pen mark.
Yes. You're exactly right - just wipe off the coding if you're not happy!
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Can you wipe it off if you’ve used a permanent marker as you did in the video?
@@PaulTimlett yes alcohol removes permanent markers
Hi Matt✌✌
a good alternative and is also great. I use the ExifTool for my archiving so I can also enter my Exif data in Lightroom as I mainly use old lenses. With Leicalenses at least the newer ones are no problem as they are also stored. Top video and thumbs OBLIGATORY up.
Lg Anderl
Thanks Anderl! Good tip
...super!!! kleines Teil mit großer wirkung....👍
Thanks Adam!
This is so cool! I wonder if it will work on older M cameras as well.. I have an M240 and Monochrome M246. Thanks a lot for the video!!!😘
Thanks and of course. It's not camera specific and will work on all Leica cameras
Thank you for the video. I already ordered it - was planning this for a long time. Absolutely helpful to identify which lens is used!! I am also using a mix of Voigtländer and Leica lenses on my M10-P
Great stuff, no problem!
Does it work on conductivity? I imagine it might not last that long. Maybe it would be a good idea to clean the lens with an alcohol wipe first to make sure there isn't any grease. Cool product, I wish there was something similar I could use for my Sony camera - flashcards are my current solution.
Thanks Josh, I think model paint is more hard wearing but all will wipe off over time unless you grind intends in the back so recessed.
I 6 bit coded my CV 28/2 & 35/2 Ultron II with an old Match Technical coding kit and it worked great and will code my LLL Elcan when I get it. Also thanks for the heads up on the Elcan hood I asked you about today.
Hi, no problem about the hood and a great little lens!
Ordered mine.
Great!
imho the biggest problem is that they dont have the same rangefinder following cam. some of them have a flat disc pushing back like 28 ultron and some of them have a ring that is tilted with an angle. Depending on your cameras rangefinder adjustment (the arm length and the cam eccentric position) this means that some of the lenses will focus perfectly some will be off by like 5-10 cms. this is not just with voigtlander but with some leica lenses too. The Chinese have the best solution where all of the newer ones are flat and you can adjust the pushing of the cam on the lens. honestly IMHO all lenses should be like that but calibrated from factory
Thanks, coding the lenses will no affect focusing as this process is fully mechanical
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom yes and i also think it should be standard. but they should fix other issues they have as well :D
Thanks Matt!! I just did it, let's see if it works! Maybe there is something worn out with my Leica M10, basically it just recognises the new version of the Leica lens as the Summilux 50 V2 and doesn't recognise the others, I think Leica tries to force me to buy the new lens.. but it won't to happen .... 😅
Thanks Dino, haha it might be secret Leica marketing hack yes! :)
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom hahahahhaha
Greetings Matt! I am a long time analogue follower of your presentations. I take delight in not having the foggiest idea what 6 bit coded means. This must in part be explained by the delight I experienced in 1955 when I first developed a roll of orthochromatic film under a red light. That delight has stayed with me till today; I need no 6 bit codes in my old fashioned darkroom.
Great stuff Jeremy, haha. That's the best way to be! Film is king for me too :)
The biggest problem with Voigtlander lenses…is that they are bland as fuck.
Haha, as you probably know I've shot most lenses for Leica M mount (to try to make reviews for all lenses for you guys). I even sold some top Leica lenses and replaced with Voigtlanders. For my B&W work I like the Voigtlanders but use all brands
So after messing up with your lenses with this “tool” you not only have the wrong lens saved in the EXIF data but also a completely incompatible lens profile baked into the image? You can’t be serious recommending this…
Totaly agree!!
Leica users have been manually setting M lens profiles for non Leica lenses for years. It is a workaround that many find acceptable.
He hasn’t messed up his lenses, he showed you how to remove the marks if needed. The purpose of identifying the lenses was to know which focal length when showing us examples. I for one found it a good idea.😊
If the 6 bit coding enables the camera to make specific adjustments for the optical properties of each model of Leica lens then, yes, this will fool the camera into making totally inappropriate adjustments for a different make of lens with a different optical formula.
Did you watch the same video? I think you refer to coding say a Voigtlander 75mm f1.5 as a 75mm f1.4 lens (which have a completely different look). As you probably know there are no codes for non-Leica brand lenses so it's normal for Leica users to use the nearest Leica code for their similar FL/aperture lens. If you don't like it, don't worry, just wipe it off! Super easy.