How to Clean CARBURETOR on 6.5 Briggs the Easy Way
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- This video explains how to remove/ clean and reassemble the carburetor on briggs and stratton engine with the square air box. This is the carb that uses the primer ball.
just because it is discolered doesnt mean it wont work it will run fine.
Probably true. A little fuel system cleaner will help flush it out.
netdoctor1 Not wise to use abrasives of any sort in the carb in case some abrasive doesn't get flushed out.
Almost every thing I work on does not require me to spend any money with the exception of being carb cleaner and brake cleaner. 99 out of 100 times I can get something running without having to buy anything. When the weather gets nice around here that's when I will start having neighbors asking me to fix the lawn mower. Most of the time I don't charge them anything. Of course when I have to order parts they pay for them. It works out pretty good being nice to the neighbours. It has been almost seven years since I have needed to start my snowblower. I have two different neighbors that will clean up the snow for me. Seeing that in most cases they cannot get it started to even do their own property and I normally can get it running for them within a half an hour. I tell them all the time to use gas stabilizer. They always say they do and I know the truth. Every single piece of equipment I own start every time no matter how long it has sat. Before I even leave to go to the gas station stabilizer is in the can.
I enjoyed your video.
HI David.. Yes, I'm the same way, most of the time I can get things running without parts. My neighbors are anti social... lol.. I know like 4 of them on the whole street.. I use the stabilizer also and I also like to use Ethanol free gas. We have a local gas station that sells it. I hope they don't quit selling it because then the only option is to go to the local airport and see if they'll sell me some 100LL in a 5 gallon can. I'm glad you enjoyed the video... :-)
All this emphasis on cleaning discoloration on parts (like the float!) is irrelevant to the running of the engine. Soak in cleaner, blow out the obvious clogs, replace the needle and seat and it will be fine. I suggest using a $15 rebuild kit available anywhere to get all the wear parts and gaskets like new.
The discoloration is a crusty film on the parts that could break up and wind up clogging the carb again. SO it's not irrelevant!
@@JLPicard440 eh. Laurence is right, with decent carb cleaner and a paper towel you can rub out most of that discoloration without the steel brush wheel. Also the discoloration gunk you refer to gets cut by cleaner, not physical means. Its a chemical reaction more than physical.
Also near the endb you specifically states "9 times out of 10 this is the clog"...then you go on to say a bit of carb cleaner through the hole gets it running.
Only run premium fuel with no ethanol in all small engines ethanol destroys the fuel system. You'll avoid many problems
It's hard to get ethanol free gas around here. There are a couple stations that have it, but they aren't convenient. Lowe's has that stuff, but they want $20 for a one gallon jug.. they're out of their minds! LOL
A tip to avoid cross threading the bolts when you install them is to turn them counter clock wise until it does a little click and then screw it in.
Yes, I use that all the time... I guess i'm so used to it, I forgot to mention it.. Thanks..
I have this same engine on my log splitter--but I can not read the stamped metal numbers due to is on the exhaust area and is corroded too much. Incredibly--it is the same exact one you have there except mine is a 6.0 hp instead of 6.5 hp. can you let me know please what your model numbers are please? I need to get the carb rebuild kit and some other things--so am in desperate needs. Thx
HI, I don't have access to that engine anymore... Do you have a wire wheel, a drill and a good magnifying glass? If you use the wire wheel to clean off the rust or corrosion you might be able to read it ... 😀
or a bread tie wire will work
take a piece of wire brush to the almost microscopic port holes then stick the wire brushes little wire you took off to clean out the holes
Thanks so much. Followed your instructions and got my mower working!
Excellent! You're welcome, and thanks for the comment... :-)
But we dont know if it was not working beforehand and you just wanted to make a DIY Video. Likley had no issues
Ok thanks!
Oh man you're lame.
Who cares?!
He still showed us how to do the job and get it down.
If you try and it still doesn't work ...then A: you're a tard and B: you're a jerk.
Good instructional video... better than most - thank-you.
(anyone ever tell you your voice sounds just like poker player Phil Helmuth?) :)
Tom K Thanks for the comment 🙂🙂... no I haven’t heard that .
That's funny... he does sound like Phil Helmuth!
old gas turns into lacquer
Thanks for all the ideas.. 😀
Good video. You detail all features of the carb. I just rebuilt my Briggs Carb. Depending on how old the mower is (a few years?) you are better off purchasing a Briggs carb kit. For around $14.00 you get every single component including gaskets. Reason: the ethanol in the fuel damages all of the components. It makes the seals and gaskets swell. The float will not operate properly. Need to use ethanol free gas for longevity.
Yes, you can also buy these carbs aftermarket on amazon for about the same price.. :-). Thanks for the info.
This is an excellent instructional video. But in my opinion power tools should only be used for disassembly to avoid stripping out threads.
I use power tools all the time for a variety of things.. I"ve been using them for so long, I just know when to stop. I've never stripped a single thing.. ever!.. But it is up to the person.. you can't just hold it on there and go to town with it.... :-)
all thats necessary is the needle and seat are clean not plugged plus the whole in the bowl seat
whats the model and serial of your mower, i got the same one from yard sale but it looks like there are some parts missing on top of the carburator
I can't say.. That mower has been gone for quite a long time now..
Thank you for the step by step directions..Being I bought the mower for 20 bucks ill go cheap and see how all works..
John Gates good deal!.... u can do it😀😀
Have you ever used pure power or purple power to clean a carburetor?
I cleaned a carburetor on an engine just like yours but the primer barely picks up the gas and the engine surges. The carburetor is clean and the primer is intact. I never over tightened the air filter holder but I noticed it if the bolts are tight the primer will not draw in any gas. What should I do?
@@brianmott728 As for the purple power, I don't see why it wouldn't work... any degreaser should be fine. Just don't let it sit in there for days. If you have one of the older briggs with the manual primer bulb on the carburetor, those are a very common issue with not pumping gas... What I do is double the gaskets on the air filter. That works most of the time. As for the surging... there's a lot of different things that could cause that. Sometimes the only fix is a carb replacement. Most of the those carburetors can be bought from Amazon for under $15, so it's not worth investing a whole lot of time in... But if you go that route, order 2 gaskets for the primer ball too... hope this helps.. thanks.
The primer bulb is on the end of the air filter holder. I doubled the gaskets on another B&S engine but it still can be hard to start and will surge most of the time. How do you know the intake valve is not leaking?
I never removed the welsh plug inside the carburetor. Should I remove it? If I remove it can I re-use it or do I have to buy a new one?
@@brianmott728 I rarely remove those. Just spray some carb cleaner up thru and call it a day. Sometimes if you do remove them, you can reuse it, if you place the plug on a anvil and flatten it with a hammer... sometimes that works, sometimes not!
Good job, thanks.
You're welcome.. :-)
Finally, a UA-camr whose gloves look like mine do at the end of a project!
Lol.... Sometimes I run out of the good black nitrile ones, so the other ones don't last long... :-)
@JLPicard440 I always use black But the problem with me...I have to remember how dirty or greasy they have turned and I have to keep them away from my face - eyes - mouth- hair and ...man you name it haha😂 .
Sometimes I get the orange ones and to be a nerd - I'll use a black one and an orange one Because it reminds me of Halloween 🎃
Lol! Actually that's a good idea on the orange gloves. I use the black ones over and over until they finally blow out! They definitely seem to last much better than the blue ones.
Do you know about crasmaster lawn mover?
Vilma Acord I’ve never heard of that one
I found out almost by accident that Simple Green melts that varnish off of the bowl after only a couple minutes of brushing it around with an old toothbrush that I bent with a butane lighter. It seems unlikely .but try it!
Great tip! Next time I have a carburetor that is gummed up like this, I'll have to remember to try that... Thanks..😀
Didn't you think it was surging when you started it up at the last????
Not at all..
Carb soak you put pieces in basket and let soak comes out clean
Either way. I do it this way and I'm done in a few minutes.
Very helpful vid! I actually just got my 5.5hp B&S mower running again before watching this. Didn't take carb off, just replaced the air filter, and removed and cleaned the bowl and nut. Guitar wire works great for the holes. I soaked the bowl in brake cleaner and sprayed everything down with carb cleaner. She fired right up!
Yes, sometimes you can do that... sometimes the carburetor is so bad, i've actually had to sand blast it to get it back again! I guess when it gets to that point it's better to buy a new one.. they're like $15 on Amazon! Guitar wire? You mean a High E string? Yea that's pretty thin...
After watching you here take off and clean the carb on this mower, I feel sure I can do the same to the one I have & Give it life again as You did yours. Thanks for video , Really liked the easy going way You did it.
That's awesome! SO glad I could help you.. 😀
That was quite a fastidious carb cleaning; but EASY? I figure the time will come when I'll need to clean the carb on my '94 mower so the title word EASY caught my attention but I'm lost as to what about your procedure was different or easier in any way.
It is easy. I don't know how else to answer your question.
Cleaned the carb and got it to run but there's a plastic arm that stops the mower, if it's held in place mower runs fine...any clue how to address this? Could the small springs have lost strength from sitting outside under a tarp?
I doubt it, unless they are rusted to death. I'm not sure which plastic arm? The governor? Choke? Is the engine surging?
Great job, thanks a million. Have to do same to mine.
You're welcome... :-)
I've cleaned my carb pretty good, yet it is still surging back and forth, just doesn't sound right. I think the problem is the little orange gasket inside the carb, the hole in it seems smaller than ones I've seen advertised. I've read elsewhere that they can swell up over time and block the gas a little. Are you aware of this problem, and I also wonder how often these things need to be replaced? Any info would be helpful.
No, I've never heard of that... look inside the carb it's hard to expain and you might have to google "the idle circuit" for the carb.. but there's usually a tiny little hole that needs cleaned out that could be causing that surging... if not, I've drilled out the main jet. You have to have a very small set of drill bits.. I'm not sure what size that'll be, but it'll be sized like #60 or #70 somewhere in that range... drill the main jet only one size bigger than it currently is,.. that might help too...
@@JLPicard440 - Thanks for the reply. Well, I don't think my issue is with the carb at all now, I'm pretty sure it is the ignition coil magneto. I used a multimeter to test the Ohms on it, and it read 6.4, which is well above the 2.5 -5.0 range I have learned it should be. I ordered one from Amazon, got it yesterday, looked brand new, but I tested it before installing, and it read 5.9 Ohms. I installed anyhow, and the mower still sounds the same, as if I have the throttle on low (I have no control over the throttle, it is automatic). Have you had any experience with bad ignition coils?
Nick23at63 Nick it’s rare.. have u checked the flywheel key to make sure it hasn’t been knocked out of time?
@@JLPicard440 - Naw, and it could be the problem I guess. But you usually hear that the flywheel key needs to be replaced because you hit something while mowing, and I didn't hit anything hard. It was running fine one day, and then the next day it wasn't. Also, it doesn't have any trouble starting, it just doesn't run as smoothly as it had. And the magneto showing the Ohms levels higher than the accepted level has to affect the performance from what I hear. I could try to check the key, but don't you need special tools to remove the flywheel? I'm checking online, and most people use some kind of puller. Thanks for your help.
@@JLPicard440 - I took the the little cylinder that holds the flywheel in off of it, and I inspected the key. I'm no expert, but it looks okay, since it is lined up with the shaft and is level with the flywheel. Gotta be that magneto.
you destroy it with the dremel, it will rust later
Johan Schröder I’ve seen them so bad there’s no other way to get it clean.... if it rusts later then it rusts.... I’ve had to sand blast some that were just horrible and still was able to bring it back to life... if it makes it thru the season... great... if not just buy another one... there not that expensive if u get aftermarket
Ain't nothing steel in this carb. Bowl is aluminum, carb is pot metal. parts are either stainless or brass.
How about carb. Cleaner soak?
Yes, you can soak it. Sometimes I do, if it's really bad I do soak it, but most of the time I don't do it.
How about easy off oven cleaner for cleaning the bow and floater, work very well for me. Just one little spray
Where can I find the number on the carburetor? Thank you.
The engine model, type and serial number are located on a tag just above the muffler. You'll need the model and type. Sometimes you need the serial number too. I usually go to www.partstree.com to look it up. Once you look up the model number of the engine, you can get the P/N of the carburetor from the parts breakdown.
Thank you so much and have a great day.
Very nice video. Sooo much easier than Honda cleaning. Their Emusion Tube was poor engineering.
Hondas run good when they run, but I really don't like their carb design with the two bolts holding everthing together from the air cleaner all the way to the block. Briggs is much easier to work on!.... Thanks for watching... :-)
When I clean my Honda’s, I use threaded rods in place of the carb bolts. One at a time
of course. Both manufacturers have faulty air cleaners. They are actually very bad!
@@algorel4763 that's a good idea! Thanks for the tip... yes the briggs air cleaner with the primer ball is junk! When the primer ball doesn't work, sometimes you can double up the gasket and it'll work, but I hate those.. the auto choke isn't as problematic even though it's basically the same air cleaner... if it leaks a little, there's no primer ball to quit working..
I thought this was the EASY method lol My late 80s 13.5 Briggs & stratton was runnog real rough, used carb cleaner & removed Bowl, cleaned it out good, now barely starts & will only barely run about half way on the throttle lever thing. Now the battery is so low I got it on the charger, cant get it to start now. I used Starting fluid, barly starts & struggles to stay running. Wonder if my 3 week old gas is bad.
97warlock ismyname I doubt if the gas is bad unless it got water in it.... I don’t know which carb u are dealing with.. but if it has a emulsion tube in the center of carb where the bowl screw goes... it could be the culprit... if it has one... you’ll have to carefully pull it out and clean it....
emulsion tube? so its actually part of teh carb? can it be gotten to by just removing the bowl? Its an old Briggs 13.5 motor . Like late 80s probably
I don't know if you have one ... I'm not familiar with those carbs from back then without seeing it. But yea, if you take the bowl screw out of the middle and look up in the hole that the screw came out of.. there might be something there that you have to pull out and look at.... but if you look up there and it's just aluminum then you don't have one...
I believe my Carb is allumininum. ... Home depot is like 2 minutes from me, may go buy this high octane drygas stuff & see if that might help it fire up.
Maybe... there might have been some trash in the gas tank that re- contaminated the carburetor after u cleaned it.... if that happened.. the fresh gas won't do any good.. so keep that in mind... thanks..
I'd recommend you always run some fuel system cleaner through it after disturbing all those solids. It'll also help flush away some of that varnish and burn it off. Maybe a tablespoon per tankful of gas.
Good Tip... A lot of times, I'll pull the gas tank and flush it out with water hose for 5 min and then dry it of course... This works great in flushing anything out of it....
I've done that when I had the patience to see it through. On my very first riding mower (Wheel Horse 312-A), which had been sitting for about 5 years, I pulled the tank to flush it with soap and water. I had nickel-sized flakes of varnish in my tank when I rinsed it.
I always try to add fuel filters to my lines, even on these small engines. I'd hate to go through all that trouble to clean my carb only to allow it to stop up again with bits of grass, etc. If you search you can usually find filters in bulk for a buck or two each in volume. Need clamps too.
At any rate, thanks for sharing your experience and expertise with us all.
Also... just a suggestion here:
I recognize that when you "think" your way through something like this, then post it for all to see (and critique), you kind of leave yourself open to criticism. If you can get past that knee-jerk reaction to defend yourself, you may learn something that you can apply or share with others. I say, "More power to you."
I love UA-cam. I have learned sooooo much because I thirst for understanding and never stop in the quest for knowledge - especially of things I am interested in. Do I know how to clean a carb? I like to think I do. Yet here I am, taking notes from a fellow who thinks he knows how to clean a carb. I'm comparing notes with you. You're reinforcing what I believe to be true, and causing me to question things I'd never considered before.
I'm not ashamed to tell you that it's opportunities like this that allow me to solidify my beliefs, and cause me to ask my self the questions that explain why I believe what I do.
I've done that before. It's a good idea to add filters to the line.... :-)
I love to learn too.... I will never be so arrogant to say that I know everything. I know people like that, and I gotta say it's the most unattractive quality that somebody can have. I like hearing other people ideas and suggestions. Even if I don't do or act on them, I'll still keep it in my bag of tricks! Thanks for the comments!
A lot of times you can double up the gasket to get the primer to work. I don't know if it's from it getting warped like you said or what. But I've seen many that won't work with even a new gasket unless you use two.
Yes sir,... I've done that trick too... I'm glad they did away with that primer ball... Some people say the auto choke that replaces it, is junk, but I haven't had much trouble with it... It's more reliable than the primer ball.. for me anyways..
I need that little gasket, anyone know what it’s called?
The one for the air cleaner?
@@JLPicard440 the one between the ail filter and the carburetor, the little one?.?
795629 is the part number. It's called Air Cleaner Gasket. Hope that helps..
@@JLPicard440 Thank you
@@OscarRodriguez-ln2om You're welcome..
nice gloves
Johan Schröder yea they died about half way thru... lol
Your gloves aren’t helping much
It happens