Your QuickJack now comes with a liquid sealant instead of the thread seal tape. For more on using the new thread sealant, check out these videos: ua-cam.com/video/q8798Dca0AU/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/aN0Z4n0FNws/v-deo.html Skip ahead to the part you need with these timestamps! Part 1: Frames - 1:14 Part 2: Hoses - 2:28 Part 3: Power Unit - 2:59 Part 4: Bleeding Procedure - 3:59 Part 5: Testing - 5:54
@@arbyarby3259 Great question and the answer is, absolutely not! The quick connect fittings are clean-break type fittings and will not allow air in - or liquid out - when connecting/disconnecting. The only time you would need to re-bleed the system is if you replace the fittings or if the frames are lifting/lowering out of sync.
As a new buyer who is waiting the 24 hours for the sealant to cure I would like to say for the Price of the Quick Jack we should not have to assembled hoses and wait 24 hours to bleed these could be shipped assembled attach the quick connects and go. This would save you the so called tape warranty problems as well.
This video is a little older but they now include a thread sealing almost like glue type stuff. even after letting it sit to cure it did not work and every fitting leaked even after being tightned a lot. I recommend using thread seal tape and u dont have to wait for cure times and it seals properly on the first try. stil love my 5000tl quick jack tho!
In the setup video, they say to use the schrader tool to tighten the valve, if it is not holding air, but I didn’t need to do that. If you need to let a little air out, the top of the valve stem cap has a little nub for doing that.
What type of fitting goes over the valve to fill it with air using my air compressor? Mine doesn’t have a valve stem, it just has a hole. Update: after watching another UA-cam video set up of jack I see I never did get the air fittings I needed. Will be contacting manufacturer.
You should emphasize that when bleeding the system the compressor should be on the floor. I made the mistake of having it sitting on a table. When on the floor, the air bubbles will go towards the bleeders which are raised up higher than the pump. It was all right there in the video and the owner's manual but it didn't catch my attention until I couldn't understand why I wasn't getting any air at the bleeders. With the pump higher than the bleeders all the air was staying in the pump.
I bought one of these units, months ago, but never got to set it up. After reading all the comments, I see a lot of complaints about missing parts, especially valves. I am traveling now, but as soon as I get home, I will check for all of the parts. My QuickJack manual, Rev.J5, from Jan. 2020 is excellent! I brought it with me, to read it. I have seen complaints about the instructions/manual, but those must have been earlier versions. I am retired now, but I used to write complicated instructions for laboratory analysts. The Jan. 2020 instructions are spot on.
Teflon tape vs. thread locker. This is always a personal choice. Here are my thoughts/opinions on this topic. If you install teflon tape properly, it will not get loose and cause problems elsewhere. I have bought air compressors where the manufacturer supplies Teflon tape for making the connections. It is meant to be a thread sealer. Teflon tape will make stuff easier to get apart. That can really be important in the future. Thread locker is made to keep things from coming apart. It is not meant to be a thread sealer, but it might work as such in a lot of cases. Any home center sells thread sealer in the plumbing department. It is not made for locking things together like thread locker and is a LOT less expensive. I tend not to use these (and there are lots of them) because after many years, they can harden in spite of what they say on the label. That makes getting stuff apart a hassle, and I am tired of that. Some plumbers use both teflon tape and thread sealants together in a kind of belt and suspenders approach to prevent leaks. I can't say that I know of a plumber who uses thread lockers to prevent leaks in joints/connections. It is not like the connectors in a QuickJack are suffering from a lot of vibrations where they might vibrate apart. I would choose properly installed teflon tape over plumber's thread sealants and both of those over thread locker for these connections.
I highly recommend Loctite 545 thread sealer for the fittings. It's spendy but worth every penny in preventing leaks. I had some issues with leaking through the threads on my QJ unit on multiple locations, despite using thread tape and proper torque. Put some on each of the threads and let it cure for 24 hours. You should never have issues with leaks after that.
I just received my QuickJack and I used Permatex Pneumatic/Hydraulic Sealant, Non-Fouling #54540 Purple, I let it cure for 24 hours and had zero leaks.
I just set up my Quickjack 7000 TL. I read through the instructions of course, but this video really covers the whole process well. Very easy set up and everything worked perfectly. If there is any input I would have about changes it would be the bleed screws. Having to manipulate them with an Allen wrench in the somewhat tight space between the frame and the hose is a little more difficult than it would be if it was just a hex screw that you could get an open end wrench on. Other than that the whole thing was very easy and this is obviously a very well-made and strong unit. I’m sure I’ll be using this for years to come.
Great idea to include checking the tightness of the schrader valves. I had a problem with mine not being tight enough a couple of years ago on my then new Quick Jack. They were not tight enough to hold pressure. They simply needed a little snugging up and my Quick Jack has since worked flawlessly. Love my Quick Jack! BTW - I do find that on my 2002 Jeep Wrangler 2-door the units can't be placed perfectly parallel. They have to be slightly pigeon-toed at the front of the Jeep as the Wrangler's frame is narrower toward the front. The Quick jack works great on the Wrangler with that placement.
I finally had the chance to set this up today. Anticipating doing work for next weekend. Video helped! Especially for the bleeding process (the manual never had instructions on that. Dated December 2018). Followed the vid, everything working like a charm. I’m very impressed how much room this gives me! I only took it up to the first notch too! Bravo! Loving it! 👍🏻
(in the video it said to loosen the screw until there is no air coming out, tighten it, press up for 1 sec, loosen screw then tap up until fluid come out with no more air bubble, but how much do I loosen it? loosen it until it starts to leak out THEN tap up or loosen it some but no fluid comes out then tap up to make fluid come out?) thanks for your help
I agree with the others, Great job with the video. I love the Quickjack, It makes working on my Mustang so much easier, but the small plastic wheels are bordering on useless. They're only good for moving very short distances and the friction created makes movement difficult. I found a very simple and inexpensive modification using ball bearing sliding door wheels (ebay) with some washers as spacers. Total cost was less than $12 Australian (about $8.5 USD) and about 15 minutes work.
Excellent Video. I’m excited!! I’m heading out to the garage to assemble mine now! First job will be a tire rotation on the Wife’s SUV then a brake job on my Mini then I’ll put my SUV up in the air, just cuz now I can. :)
My open box Quick Jack package did not include a manual or assembly kit. I found the manual online and I have plenty of thread tape. All in all, I got $600 off list price and have a 1 year warranty (BL-7000SLX). I guess I can't complain. Oh, one suggestion. Add wheels to the inside of the rails so they can be easily slide under the vehicle. Thanks for posting the video. Time to set up my new toy!
That does seem like that would make it slicker and more polished, if it could just be tilted slightly onto the wheels for positioning, instead of scuffing along the concrete as I imagine would be necessary.
just received mine.Very good packaging,nice to see the plywood lining the inside of the cardboard box..Did not really make sense to me to pump all the air from the lines through the cylinders though so I bled all the lines before hooking it up and worked smooth right from the initial lift.Have to give some credit to UPS because the boxes were not destroyed.
Absolutely verify that the lock bar itself is creating the lock. If you raise the QJ up a little too far before letting it settle back down to lock, you can create an unsafe, false lock with the cam jamming agains the stop. That will support weight, but be prone to sudden lock release. BAM, the entire side may fall all the way down if the lock bar doesn't happen to catch against the stop as the cam pops out of "false lock." Always halt going up as soon as the lock bars just clear the stop. Don't let the cam get between the end of the lock bar and stop. If you do that, you will create a potentially catastrophic "false lock" against just the cam.
This risk could be prevented by reshaping the cam so it can never jam against a lock stop. A revised cam could be retrofitted to existing QuickJacks. In the interest of public safety, I have submitted a report to CPSC.gov (report 20201128-2FEEE-2147367840). Mind you, I otherwise LOVE my QuickJack, but the ability to inadvertently falsely lock with the cam instead of the locking bar end is something that cannot be ignored. Worst part of that failure mode is it looks correct from a distance and it holds the vehicle weight for an unpredictable time before popping free.
assuming this happens, does the hydraulic lift supports have any limiting action from the sudden increase of hydraulic pressure when in the released position, to slow the rate of descent? Or would they have no effect because the pressure buildup is too small to have any appreciable effect? It'd be an interesting test-
I just finished assembling the 5000SLX. And just found out they rolled out a new product 5000TL which fits me better. Now I have to take the whole assembly back to Costco.
Fantastic, we wish you a lifetime of happy lifting! Make sure to tag us if you post on Instagram - we'd love to see it in action! And thanks for the comments, we really appreciate it!!
These are better than most "DIY" set up videos. It would help to know what size Schrader valve tool fits this system. From a "visual" on this guide I'm guessing it is the common size found in a tire stem. When searching online, I find tools for R12/R134 as well.
Steve, thanks for your input! It is a standard size schrader valve tool as found in most tire systems. We will certainly note your comment regarding the other available sizes and be sure to include that in future updates.
you should add the following instruction, "plan on an additional 7-10 days of setup time waiting for the parts that were not included in the original shipment."
That lift is awesome just got mine together and works great except for 3 fitting that leaked going to try some Loctite hope can get them to stop leaking.
Just Bought a QuickJack BL-5000-LX, would love to see videos how to use for various vehicles, in my case an MX5 ND. Where to place the lift blocks, what blocks to use (pinch weld or supplied) etc. Thanks
Why on earth do we have as a customer, to assemble the fittings??? For the price you guys are asking, this should be done at the factory, resolving a lot of issues some people do have with leak and/or over torquing the fittings... Still I can't wait to get my 5000TL!
I just got mine delivered. It came with a thread sealant instead of thread seal tape. Is this a replacement for the tape? Also, how do I tighten the valve? I don't have a schrader tool but I know the schrader valve is on the cap but not to tighten like it was shown in the video.
I just set mine up, the bleeder allen screws on mine are a 3/16" not a 5mm per the instructions, No mention of allowing the thread sealer to harden per the videos... otherwise a very good set of written instructions.
Got the 5000TLX and used it this weekend. No runs, drips, or errors. I don't like jinky setup of having to run the hose under the jacks. I'm always nervous about crushing them when lowering the car and everything is moving. Other than that, it's pretty stout. If it holds up, it will be well worth the money.
I may have spoken too soon. I pulled this out to use it for the first time after the initial setup. I couldn't get one of the hoses to attach to the pump. I tried to bleed the shock a little bit, but didn't work. Took the cap off the reservoir, didn't work. Took the cap off the pump, that worked. After going back and reading the troubleshooting, I think it might have happened because I didn't hold the 'down' button for 5 seconds after I lower my car, the other day. I used it today and did hold it down when I got done. I guess I'll find out the next time I go to set this up and try to plug in the hoses.
Update: the next time I went to plug the lines into the jacks, they connected with only what I would expect to be normal resistance. So, that holding for 5 seconds after the lifts are down seems to work. I've used it a half dozen times since. If fact, my car has been in the air for the past week. I'm starting to wish that I had these for the past 30 years. Always screwing around with the floor jack and jack stands.
just purchased a 5000 QJ, and followed tutorial. Everything working as it should. I have a 65 Mercury Comet and not sure of lift points on the car. The rocker panels are pinch welds. I also have subframe connectors to strength the un factory torque boxes to help with big block ford motor. As a reminder these 64-65 Comets are the same as 64-65 falcons. Any suggestions would be appreciate
STP AW-32 hydraulic oil (stays fluid at lower temps than the 46) would a good choice here, theoretically automatic tranny fluids will have all sorts of high friction additives that could cause problems in a hydraulic system. Another endorsement for the Loctite 545.
The bleeder valve on my QuickJack 5000 TLX takes a 4.5mm Allen key, not a 5mm as stated in the manual. And my setup included liquid thread sealant, not tape, and one connector leaks.
Yes, that’s what they recommend in lieu of teflon tape. Apparently, may were using the tape wrong causing tape bits to enter the line and contaminating the hydraulic system, hence the switch to sealant.
I sent in a ticket but will post here too. My 5000xl has sat for over a year. I set it up over the weekend to use switching my tires. One jack is not holding pressure. With the weight of the car on it .. one drops and the other raises. Car almost fell off the pucks :( It happens rather quick. I dont see any fluid leaks around. Its the older pump fyi Any advice? Ty
Help. Why is my 5000 model not able to reach the pinch welds on my 93 civic? It seems the QJ is too short for my little car. The QJ is off centered if I place one end under the pinch welds.
Our apologies for the inconvenience! Please contact our support team at (888) 262-3880 or visit help.quickjack.com/support/tickets/new and we'll make sure to get you taken care of!
What tool do I use to torque down the connectors. I tried crowfoot heads on my torque stench, but not sure if it would work like that. I felt like I was over tightening. How much thread should be showing?
Apologies for the inconvenience! If you haven't already please contact QuickJack support either online via www.quickjack.com/support/ or give us a call at (888) 262-3880 and we'll get you back up and running!
Set mine up today and leaks on every connection even with the thread sealant provided. Now I have to figure something out. Quickjack should've figured out a solution by now for this problem or are you guys too busy selling the product to even care?
How come mine don’t go down at all unless I lean my body weight onto the end it will. In the video he lifts just before the first lock point and it goes down without any external force.
Hi SlayerX7gtr! Great question! Your vehicle can face either the wheels or sticker end of the QuickJack. Just keep in mind that there is *radial shift towards the sticker side* !
Thanks for the comment! You absolutely need to use thread seal tape on the fittings! The only fittings which do not need the tape are the elbow fitting (due to it's o-ring on one side and the compression fitting on the other side) and the power unit fittings (as they are also equipped with o-rings).
After bleeding it it goes up pretty even (left frame 1,2 inches faster than right) but when coming down right frame would be already on the ground while left frame is still 7 inches up (not with a car, so far only tested with me on it) Normal?
That is absolutely normal without substantial weight on the frames. The flow divider valve works best when loaded with the weight of a vehicle. Also make sure that both air cylinders are inflated to 50psi as that helps cushion the lowering of the frames.
Hi Quickjack! At 7:12 you detach the hoses while the car is at first lock point. For how long will you be able to keep it that way? In my case I'd like to store a car during winter so the car will be in the garage for 4-5 month. Can I let it stay on the quickjack for that period of time as long I am sure it is in a locked position? Thanks!
Hi and thanks for the comment! The answer is, Yes! You absolutely can leave your car up on QuickJack for the winter, or as long as you'd like. Once the QuickJack's locks are engaged you can depressurize the hydraulics by holding the down button on the controller for a few seconds, disconnect the hoses from the quick-connect fittings, and move the hoses and power unit out of the way. Just as a reminder, when lifting your vehicle with QuickJack, the hydraulics are just there to do the lifting and lowering. Always use one of the locking positions - whether you're storing you car for the winter, or just doing some simple maintenance.
@@quickjackusa is the disconnection of the hoses needed to prevent degrading the connector seals from taking a set over a long period, or is the disconnection just for getting them out of the way?
This Quickjack setup is a bigger pain than I expected. And the opening for pouring the automatic transmission fluid into the reservoir is too small for my funnel to fit so I had to pour it in freehand, spilling some of course since the hole is so small. Grrr.
Be aware. The date code tag on my lift is one month shy from being two years old. So I paid retail for a two year old product? Not happy. If you read this post keep this in mind.
Does repeated connection and disconnection of the hydraulic hoses eventually allow air into the system and require bleeding the air again after a period of time? Is it preferable to leave them connected unless necessary for storage, or does it make no difference?
Thanks for the question. The quick-connect fittings should not allow air into the system and are designed to be utilized as often as needed. They are particularly good for clearing the hoses out of the way to clear up the work area once the vehicle is lifted and secured on the QuickJack's locks.
Arrived with a broken bottle of liquid thread locker, which leaked everywhere making fittings sticky. This video, and the instructions said to use the (not) enclosed thread tape.
First off, our apologies for the inconvenience! Please contact QuickJack support to replace the thread sealant, either by phone (888) 262-3880 or via this link: help.quickjack.com/support/tickets/new Also, we have since updated the QuickJack assembly kit to include the liquid thread sealant instead of the thread seal tape. You can find more information in this video: ua-cam.com/video/aN0Z4n0FNws/v-deo.html
4:18 what is the power requirement? Can an extension cord supply sufficient current for it to operate? Is there a large inrush current when starting up that makes it unsuitable for generator power sources?
There are several power unit choices available depending on your region. In the U.S. the standard is a 110v power unit with a peak 15 amp power draw. We generally recommend against using extension cords, however if absolutely necessary, you can use a 14 gauge extension cord for up to 50 feet of length. We have a bit more on the common electric questions here: ua-cam.com/video/cgjaetg_zzM/v-deo.html
Doesn't seem a good idea to have it on anything other than a flat surface. Better off that it's not level then having one end of the jack propped up with anything. It's got to be a very severe angle for it to start sliding off the lift blocks. There's no wheels to deal with so nothing's going to roll, as is the case with standard floor jacks and their ilk being used on the slant.
Why do you require your customers to do basic assembly steps like attaching connectors to the hoses, and even perform basic quality control steps like checking for air leaks? I don't work for you, how about you ship a product that has undergone basic assembly and QC checks from the factory?
Yes. While there have been some changes to QuickJack over the past few years, the current models are all the same except for several variances of the hydraulic power unit. You can always get the latest information from www.quickjack.com or giving us a call at 888-262-3880
Good question! Yes! Once it's on the lock you can disconnect the hoses and leave a vehicle lifted indefinitely. Be sure to depressurize the hoses before disconnecting the quick-connect fittings to give you an easier time later on when you're ready to reconnect the hoses.
@@quickjackusa How do you de pressurize before disconnecting them? Got mine today, once I pick up some trans fluid I’ll be ready to start but would love to be able to have the hoses disconnected once lifted. Thanks!
@@totalpackagedetailingllc4413 To depressurize the hoses all you have to do is - once the frames are in a locked position - press the down button on the controller for about 5 seconds.
All maintenance guidelines can be found in the manual at this link: www.quickjack.com/pub/downloads/QuickJack-Car-Lift-Manual.pdf Additionally, make sure to stay tuned here on the QuickJack UA-cam channel as we'll have some basic maintenance videos coming out soon!
the best place in the UK is www.quickjacklift.co.uk/ I answered my own question! Usually the case !! Thank God, after a long delay due to lockdown etc I've finally got mine! Thanks for the helpful video and for your company - God bless America ... and the UK!!!
After lifting the car to work on it. Do you disconnect the long hoses? Then reconnect to lower the car when work is done? Or do you keep the long hoses connected while the car is lifted?
Great question! Once the vehicle is up and the QuickJack frames are on one of the two locking positions you absolutely can disconnect the long hoses to open up your work area. However, definitely go ahead and make sure they are depressurized before disconnecting by holding the down button on the controller for at least 5 seconds. You can see more on depressurizing in this video: ua-cam.com/video/zoD-_Vn9Pqo/v-deo.html
Y'all sent me the most bogus set of quickjacks I'm telling you. First off they lifted funny but that was due to one air cylinder not holding air. Quick jack sent me a new one. Now the other side is leaking fluid from the seal. Its not terribly bad yet but i noticed it when i stood them up to put them away. This is the second time they picked up my car. I bought them may 2tth 2021. Im about over these things already. I swear i got the set that picked up all that weight and had a cylinder cut in half.😭🤣🤣
Sorry to hear about the issues you've been having! As far as your leak is concerned, please refer to the manual for troubleshooting and of course our tech support team is available to help you get that sorted out. You can contact us at (888) 262-3880 or online at this link: help.quickjack.com/support/tickets/new
Sorry about that! Here's the link to the latest version of the QuickJack manual www.quickjack.com/pub/downloads/QuickJack-Car-Lift-Manual.pdf The bleeding procedure can be found on page 31.
At 3:28, QuikJack says to install the lower fitting first, so as to make the installation of the upper fitting easier. Right process, but wrong reasoning. I think that the upper fitting would be easier to install if the lower was not there. The lower fitting should be installed first, because the upper fitting will get in the way of installing the lower fitting later.
Our apologies for the mix up!! Please contact our support team and we'll get that straightened out for you! www.quickjack.com/support/ or call 888-262-3880
I got my quick jack the 7000 one. And I got everything all set up. Got it elevated and now it won’t go back down. There is a red light on the top and it makes a clicking noise every time I press down. Any advice ?
Sorry for the trouble! Unfortunately, we'd need a bit more information to troubleshoot your issue. Please contact our support team at 888-262-3880 or online via this link: help.quickjack.com/support/tickets/new You can also refer to the troubleshooting guide in the manual (the latest copy can be found online here: www.quickjack.com/pub/downloads/QuickJack-Car-Lift-Manual.pdf)
Great question! You can stagger the blocks as long as they all contact the lift points evenly and simultaneously, allowing the vehicle to lift in a neutral position with the weight evenly distributed. There should never be any tilt front to back or side to side.
Apologies for the inconvenience! If you have not yet bled the system, go ahead and bleed the air out. It may also be necessary to put a small amount of whichever hydraulic fluid you're using around the chrome rod, right where it comes out of the hydraulic cylinder. This helps lubricate the system and can assist the cylinder break-in. Lastly, once the system is bled, if the frames don't want to come down, just add a bit of weight to them and that should do the trick. Ultimately, this issue is caused by the cylinder seals needing to break-in.
how do i know if i have a breather valve? the one i have has 1 small hole in the middle. so i need to loosen the nut where i fill the pump before i use the jack? i just got mine today- letting the thread sealer dry before use tomorrow
Great question! The manual has a description of both styles of breather, refer to that manual to determine which you have. The latest manual can be found online at: www.quickjack.com/support/downloads/ and if you need any further assistance, you can call our support team at (888) 262-3880 or submit an online support request here: help.quickjack.com/support/tickets/new
Thanks for the question! While we can't say specifically on the make/model - we have many customers regularly using the QuickJack to drop/swap transmissions.
As long as you're using the Quick Connect fittings, there is no need to re-bleed the system. The only time you would need to bleed the system again is if you were to loosen the threaded fittings on the hoses, frames or power unit. Also if you do a full fluid change it is recommended to bleed again at that point. For more information please check the QuickJack manual at this link: www.quickjack.com/pub/downloads/QuickJack-Car-Lift-Manual.pdf or if you have any further questions, please feel free to reach out to our support team: (888) 262-3880 or online via: help.quickjack.com/support/tickets/new
Great question! The lightest QuickJack frame is 60 pounds (BL3500SLX) and the heaviest is 110 pounds (BL6000XLT) so it ultimately depends on which QuickJack model you'd need. You can get specs on all models at www.quickjack.com/compare/specifications/
Anything you can do with a floor jack, without the hassle of the floor jack! Lifting all four corners simultaneously is a huge advantage over a jack. Once lifted and locked there's great access from the sides to the wheels, brakes and suspension components. Plus, with up to two feet of lift height, there's clearance underneath to take care of fluid service, exhaust work, or drop a transmission. Check out our videos as well as the many others on UA-cam to see how QuickJack can help your automotive workflow! Of course, if you have the space for a full-size two or four-post lift, our parent company can help out with that as well, check out www.bendpak.com to see our full selection of lifts and equipment.
You need to mount wheels on your Quick Jack, they are too heavy to adjust under the car. I think of resilient ball rollers that you drill into the lift so it becomes easy to move around and adjust the lift under the car.
exactly! jack and stands are way faster and easier to use than this. they should spring load the wheels so it can support it's own weight to roll around and compress to lay on its frame when weight is applied to it
@@gwot that'd be a nice setup, like those step stools with spring loaded wheels that retract with weight on them. Just have to make sure it's not going to reduce clearance by getting overly high though.
Your QuickJack now comes with a liquid sealant instead of the thread seal tape. For more on using the new thread sealant, check out these videos:
ua-cam.com/video/q8798Dca0AU/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/aN0Z4n0FNws/v-deo.html
Skip ahead to the part you need with these timestamps!
Part 1: Frames - 1:14
Part 2: Hoses - 2:28
Part 3: Power Unit - 2:59
Part 4: Bleeding Procedure - 3:59
Part 5: Testing - 5:54
Each time you disconnect and reconnect the hydraulic hoses do you have to bleed the system??
@@arbyarby3259 Great question and the answer is, absolutely not! The quick connect fittings are clean-break type fittings and will not allow air in - or liquid out - when connecting/disconnecting. The only time you would need to re-bleed the system is if you replace the fittings or if the frames are lifting/lowering out of sync.
As a new buyer who is waiting the 24 hours for the sealant to cure I would like to say for the Price of the Quick Jack we should not have to assembled hoses and wait 24 hours to bleed these could be shipped assembled attach the quick connects and go. This would save you the so called tape warranty problems as well.
Now use your amazing quickjack to remove those awful wheels off that poor mustang.
lmaooo
Remove the mustang. Lol
Yeah those are... haunting.
Ikr
Bruh hahahahaha!!!
This video is a little older but they now include a thread sealing almost like glue type stuff. even after letting it sit to cure it did not work and every fitting leaked even after being tightned a lot. I recommend using thread seal tape and u dont have to wait for cure times and it seals properly on the first try. stil love my 5000tl quick jack tho!
Schrader tool should be included in the kit. Took me days to get that! It's cheap enough, just not a common tool.
It is included, it's integrated on the cap.
In the setup video, they say to use the schrader tool to tighten the valve, if it is not holding air, but I didn’t need to do that. If you need to let a little air out, the top of the valve stem cap has a little nub for doing that.
What type of fitting goes over the valve to fill it with air using my air compressor? Mine doesn’t have a valve stem, it just has a hole.
Update: after watching another UA-cam video set up of jack I see I never did get the air fittings I needed. Will be contacting manufacturer.
@@KB248FOREVER I just received my quickjack yesterday and the same thing happened. No valve stems. What was the result of you contacting quickjack?
@@FlyinRyan2011 - same thing just happened to me. No valve stems and no wheels or teflon tape. Ughh. Their offices are closed for the weekend too..
You should emphasize that when bleeding the system the compressor should be on the floor. I made the mistake of having it sitting on a table. When on the floor, the air bubbles will go towards the bleeders which are raised up higher than the pump. It was all right there in the video and the owner's manual but it didn't catch my attention until I couldn't understand why I wasn't getting any air at the bleeders. With the pump higher than the bleeders all the air was staying in the pump.
Thank you very much for the comment! Excellent point!
I bought one of these units, months ago, but never got to set it up. After reading all the comments, I see a lot of complaints about missing parts, especially valves. I am traveling now, but as soon as I get home, I will check for all of the parts. My QuickJack manual, Rev.J5, from Jan. 2020 is excellent! I brought it with me, to read it. I have seen complaints about the instructions/manual, but those must have been earlier versions. I am retired now, but I used to write complicated instructions for laboratory analysts. The Jan. 2020 instructions are spot on.
Teflon tape vs. thread locker. This is always a personal choice. Here are my thoughts/opinions on this topic. If you install teflon tape properly, it will not get loose and cause problems elsewhere. I have bought air compressors where the manufacturer supplies Teflon tape for making the connections. It is meant to be a thread sealer. Teflon tape will make stuff easier to get apart. That can really be important in the future. Thread locker is made to keep things from coming apart. It is not meant to be a thread sealer, but it might work as such in a lot of cases. Any home center sells thread sealer in the plumbing department. It is not made for locking things together like thread locker and is a LOT less expensive. I tend not to use these (and there are lots of them) because after many years, they can harden in spite of what they say on the label. That makes getting stuff apart a hassle, and I am tired of that. Some plumbers use both teflon tape and thread sealants together in a kind of belt and suspenders approach to prevent leaks. I can't say that I know of a plumber who uses thread lockers to prevent leaks in joints/connections. It is not like the connectors in a QuickJack are suffering from a lot of vibrations where they might vibrate apart. I would choose properly installed teflon tape over plumber's thread sealants and both of those over thread locker for these connections.
I highly recommend Loctite 545 thread sealer for the fittings. It's spendy but worth every penny in preventing leaks. I had some issues with leaking through the threads on my QJ unit on multiple locations, despite using thread tape and proper torque. Put some on each of the threads and let it cure for 24 hours. You should never have issues with leaks after that.
I just received my QuickJack and I used Permatex Pneumatic/Hydraulic Sealant, Non-Fouling #54540 Purple, I let it cure for 24 hours and had zero leaks.
I will look into this thread sealer. I assume oil will flow through these?
I just set up my Quickjack 7000 TL. I read through the instructions of course, but this video really covers the whole process well. Very easy set up and everything worked perfectly. If there is any input I would have about changes it would be the bleed screws. Having to manipulate them with an Allen wrench in the somewhat tight space between the frame and the hose is a little more difficult than it would be if it was just a hex screw that you could get an open end wrench on. Other than that the whole thing was very easy and this is obviously a very well-made and strong unit. I’m sure I’ll be using this for years to come.
Great idea to include checking the tightness of the schrader valves. I had a problem with mine not being tight enough a couple of years ago on my then new Quick Jack. They were not tight enough to hold pressure. They simply needed a little snugging up and my Quick Jack has since worked flawlessly. Love my Quick Jack! BTW - I do find that on my 2002 Jeep Wrangler 2-door the units can't be placed perfectly parallel. They have to be slightly pigeon-toed at the front of the Jeep as the Wrangler's frame is narrower toward the front. The Quick jack works great on the Wrangler with that placement.
I finally had the chance to set this up today. Anticipating doing work for next weekend. Video helped! Especially for the bleeding process (the manual never had instructions on that. Dated December 2018). Followed the vid, everything working like a charm. I’m very impressed how much room this gives me! I only took it up to the first notch too! Bravo! Loving it! 👍🏻
(in the video it said to loosen the screw until there is no air coming out, tighten it, press up for 1 sec, loosen screw then tap up until fluid come out with no more air bubble, but how much do I loosen it? loosen it until it starts to leak out THEN tap up or loosen it some but no fluid comes out then tap up to make fluid come out?) thanks for your help
Nice job with the video, much more concise than previous iteration. Also like the stacking blocks tip, why didn't I think of that before? 😁
Setting up my Quick Jack today. First job: brakes on my wife’s SUV. THANK YOU for the video. Very helpful.
Quickjack is so convenient and easy! Love it. Keeps my sports cars well maintained on my own.
Very good Video! The assembly was very easy with it! Thanks a lot we are very happy with our Quick Jack
Greetings from Switzerland!
I agree with the others, Great job with the video.
I love the Quickjack, It makes working on my Mustang so much easier, but the small plastic wheels are bordering on useless. They're only good for moving very short distances and the friction created makes movement difficult. I found a very simple and inexpensive modification using ball bearing sliding door wheels (ebay) with some washers as spacers. Total cost was less than $12 Australian (about $8.5 USD) and about 15 minutes work.
Andrew Harwood make a video of your upgrade and put a like on here!!!
Link to the wheels?
Video?
Excellent Video. I’m excited!! I’m heading out to the garage to assemble mine now! First job will be a tire rotation on the Wife’s SUV then a brake job on my Mini then I’ll put my SUV up in the air, just cuz now I can. :)
Just had mine delivered over 2 days. Hone depot black friday special.. Oh yea cant wait!!!
Excellent Instructional video. My BL-5000SLX arrives tomorrow, and I should be ready!
Love the QuickJack 7000TLX
My open box Quick Jack package did not include a manual or assembly kit. I found the manual online and I have plenty of thread tape. All in all, I got $600 off list price and have a 1 year warranty (BL-7000SLX). I guess I can't complain. Oh, one suggestion. Add wheels to the inside of the rails so they can be easily slide under the vehicle. Thanks for posting the video. Time to set up my new toy!
That does seem like that would make it slicker and more polished, if it could just be tilted slightly onto the wheels for positioning, instead of scuffing along the concrete as I imagine would be necessary.
Awesome! I can't wait to set mine up today!! Thank you for the walk through, verh straight forward and simple
just received mine.Very good packaging,nice to see the plywood lining the inside of the cardboard box..Did not really make sense to me to pump all the air from the lines through the cylinders though so I bled all the lines before hooking it up and worked smooth right from the initial lift.Have to give some credit to UPS because the boxes were not destroyed.
Chip Prouty, how did you bleed the lines?
Just finished setting up my QJ 5000, so far so good can’t wait to really put it to work 🤞🏾
Now I know! Thanks for the clear video work
Thank you! This was very helpful to set up, and everything is great with no leaks! Now I just have to test it with a car :)
Perfect instructional video, got everything up and running beautifully with zero leaks in just under an hour from when it arrived on my porch
Absolutely verify that the lock bar itself is creating the lock. If you raise the QJ up a little too far before letting it settle back down to lock, you can create an unsafe, false lock with the cam jamming agains the stop. That will support weight, but be prone to sudden lock release. BAM, the entire side may fall all the way down if the lock bar doesn't happen to catch against the stop as the cam pops out of "false lock." Always halt going up as soon as the lock bars just clear the stop. Don't let the cam get between the end of the lock bar and stop. If you do that, you will create a potentially catastrophic "false lock" against just the cam.
This risk could be prevented by reshaping the cam so it can never jam against a lock stop. A revised cam could be retrofitted to existing QuickJacks. In the interest of public safety, I have submitted a report to CPSC.gov (report 20201128-2FEEE-2147367840). Mind you, I otherwise LOVE my QuickJack, but the ability to inadvertently falsely lock with the cam instead of the locking bar end is something that cannot be ignored. Worst part of that failure mode is it looks correct from a distance and it holds the vehicle weight for an unpredictable time before popping free.
assuming this happens, does the hydraulic lift supports have any limiting action from the sudden increase of hydraulic pressure when in the released position, to slow the rate of descent? Or would they have no effect because the pressure buildup is too small to have any appreciable effect?
It'd be an interesting test-
I just finished assembling the 5000SLX. And just found out they rolled out a new product 5000TL which fits me better. Now I have to take the whole assembly back to Costco.
How easy was that?
Just got mine in today! Early Xmas! Can’t wait to try it out!
update today- Works MINT! great product
Fantastic, we wish you a lifetime of happy lifting! Make sure to tag us if you post on Instagram - we'd love to see it in action! And thanks for the comments, we really appreciate it!!
These are better than most "DIY" set up videos. It would help to know what size Schrader valve tool fits this system. From a "visual" on this guide I'm guessing it is the common size found in a tire stem. When searching online, I find tools for R12/R134 as well.
Steve, thanks for your input! It is a standard size schrader valve tool as found in most tire systems. We will certainly note your comment regarding the other available sizes and be sure to include that in future updates.
you should add the following instruction, "plan on an additional 7-10 days of setup time waiting for the parts that were not included in the original shipment."
Is that still a common issue now or have they gotten it together?
That lift is awesome just got mine together and works great except for 3 fitting that leaked going to try some Loctite hope can get them to stop leaking.
Sorry about those leaks! Be sure to let the thread sealant cure for 24 hours before use!
Game changer! 💯
Just Bought a QuickJack BL-5000-LX, would love to see videos how to use for various vehicles, in my case an MX5 ND. Where to place the lift blocks, what blocks to use (pinch weld or supplied) etc. Thanks
Much needed... thanks.
Why on earth do we have as a customer, to assemble the fittings??? For the price you guys are asking, this should be done at the factory, resolving a lot of issues some people do have with leak and/or over torquing the fittings...
Still I can't wait to get my 5000TL!
Having just done it, you do make a good point.
I just got mine delivered. It came with a thread sealant instead of thread seal tape. Is this a replacement for the tape? Also, how do I tighten the valve? I don't have a schrader tool but I know the schrader valve is on the cap but not to tighten like it was shown in the video.
I just set mine up, the bleeder allen screws on mine are a 3/16" not a 5mm per the instructions, No mention of allowing the thread sealer to harden per the videos... otherwise a very good set of written instructions.
Got the 5000TLX and used it this weekend. No runs, drips, or errors. I don't like jinky setup of having to run the hose under the jacks. I'm always nervous about crushing them when lowering the car and everything is moving. Other than that, it's pretty stout. If it holds up, it will be well worth the money.
I may have spoken too soon. I pulled this out to use it for the first time after the initial setup. I couldn't get one of the hoses to attach to the pump. I tried to bleed the shock a little bit, but didn't work. Took the cap off the reservoir, didn't work. Took the cap off the pump, that worked. After going back and reading the troubleshooting, I think it might have happened because I didn't hold the 'down' button for 5 seconds after I lower my car, the other day. I used it today and did hold it down when I got done. I guess I'll find out the next time I go to set this up and try to plug in the hoses.
Correct! Pressure was building up.
Update: the next time I went to plug the lines into the jacks, they connected with only what I would expect to be normal resistance. So, that holding for 5 seconds after the lifts are down seems to work. I've used it a half dozen times since. If fact, my car has been in the air for the past week. I'm starting to wish that I had these for the past 30 years. Always screwing around with the floor jack and jack stands.
just purchased a 5000 QJ, and followed tutorial. Everything working as it should. I have a 65 Mercury Comet and not sure of lift points on the car. The rocker panels are pinch welds. I also have subframe connectors to strength the un factory torque boxes to help with big block ford motor. As a reminder these 64-65 Comets are the same as 64-65 falcons. Any suggestions would be appreciate
Just waiting for that Costco special to come back before I buy....
Ditto 👍
How much $ off on the costco special?
STP AW-32 hydraulic oil (stays fluid at lower temps than the 46) would a good choice here, theoretically automatic tranny fluids will have all sorts of high friction additives that could cause problems in a hydraulic system. Another endorsement for the Loctite 545.
The bleeder valve on my QuickJack 5000 TLX takes a 4.5mm Allen key, not a 5mm as stated in the manual. And my setup included liquid thread sealant, not tape, and one connector leaks.
I just received my quickjack. It came with a thread sealant. Is this to be used in lieu of thread seal tape?
I wondered this too.
Me too
I used the sealant and it worked fine
Yes, that’s what they recommend in lieu of teflon tape. Apparently, may were using the tape wrong causing tape bits to enter the line and contaminating the hydraulic system, hence the switch to sealant.
Love you guys ! About to do my first test lift
Legend has it the Bendpack was stolen but the wheels were never touched.
I sent in a ticket but will post here too. My 5000xl has sat for over a year. I set it up over the weekend to use switching my tires.
One jack is not holding pressure. With the weight of the car on it .. one drops and the other raises. Car almost fell off the pucks :(
It happens rather quick. I dont see any fluid leaks around. Its the older pump fyi
Any advice?
Ty
Have you checked the shrader valves for tightness?
Help. Why is my 5000 model not able to reach the pinch welds on my 93 civic? It seems the QJ is too short for my little car. The QJ is off centered if I place one end under the pinch welds.
my system came in and had no valve stems so looks like yet another part I need to order.
Our apologies for the inconvenience! Please contact our support team at (888) 262-3880 or visit help.quickjack.com/support/tickets/new and we'll make sure to get you taken care of!
Sure like to see it lift a 7000 lb truck 🛻 start to finish
Do you make a UK version ? I've been seeing these all over youtube and they are a one of a kind. I'm dying to get my hands on a set.
Costco sell them
Which model is best for full frame GM A-Body cars 1964-1972?
How long approximately does it take to fully assemble once the boxes are unpacked?
What tool do I use to torque down the connectors. I tried crowfoot heads on my torque stench, but not sure if it would work like that. I felt like I was over tightening. How much thread should be showing?
I'm having a issue with my quick leaking from the reservoir connecting to the pump any ideas as to why this is happening
Apologies for the inconvenience! If you haven't already please contact QuickJack support either online via www.quickjack.com/support/ or give us a call at (888) 262-3880 and we'll get you back up and running!
thank you so much for posting the video. how high can you lift a car off the ground with quick jack?
Depending on the QuickJack model used, up to 24" of lift height.
Show some lift point. And different variations if lift block configurations.
Does Costco sell these in the local stores or just on their website?
didn't know u were made by Bendpak!
Why is it during bleeding I raise it up 8” and I have to stand on them to make them go back down ?
Loved
Set mine up today and leaks on every connection even with the thread sealant provided. Now I have to figure something out. Quickjack should've figured out a solution by now for this problem or are you guys too busy selling the product to even care?
How come mine don’t go down at all unless I lean my body weight onto the end it will.
In the video he lifts just before the first lock point and it goes down without any external force.
does it matter if quick jack is facing the yellow sticker pointing towards the front of vehicle or back? [quick conect hose located in rear or front?]
Hi SlayerX7gtr! Great question! Your vehicle can face either the wheels or sticker end of the QuickJack. Just keep in mind that there is *radial shift towards the sticker side* !
Big controversy from the last video was the use of Teflon tape. Comments consensus was “no” but it’s back in this video so ?
Thanks for the comment! You absolutely need to use thread seal tape on the fittings! The only fittings which do not need the tape are the elbow fitting (due to it's o-ring on one side and the compression fitting on the other side) and the power unit fittings (as they are also equipped with o-rings).
After bleeding it it goes up pretty even (left frame 1,2 inches faster than right) but when coming down right frame would be already on the ground while left frame is still 7 inches up (not with a car, so far only tested with me on it) Normal?
That is absolutely normal without substantial weight on the frames. The flow divider valve works best when loaded with the weight of a vehicle. Also make sure that both air cylinders are inflated to 50psi as that helps cushion the lowering of the frames.
Hi Quickjack! At 7:12 you detach the hoses while the car is at first lock point. For how long will you be able to keep it that way? In my case I'd like to store a car during winter so the car will be in the garage for 4-5 month. Can I let it stay on the quickjack for that period of time as long I am sure it is in a locked position?
Thanks!
Hi and thanks for the comment! The answer is, Yes! You absolutely can leave your car up on QuickJack for the winter, or as long as you'd like. Once the QuickJack's locks are engaged you can depressurize the hydraulics by holding the down button on the controller for a few seconds, disconnect the hoses from the quick-connect fittings, and move the hoses and power unit out of the way. Just as a reminder, when lifting your vehicle with QuickJack, the hydraulics are just there to do the lifting and lowering. Always use one of the locking positions - whether you're storing you car for the winter, or just doing some simple maintenance.
@@quickjackusa Thanks! GREAT explanation! Can't wait for getting my Quickjack!
@@quickjackusa is the disconnection of the hoses needed to prevent degrading the connector seals from taking a set over a long period, or is the disconnection just for getting them out of the way?
This Quickjack setup is a bigger pain than I expected. And the opening for pouring the automatic transmission fluid into the reservoir is too small for my funnel to fit so I had to pour it in freehand, spilling some of course since the hole is so small. Grrr.
Can these be mounted and driven onto?
Be aware. The date code tag on my lift is one month shy from being two years old. So I paid retail for a two year old product? Not happy. If you read this post keep this in mind.
Thank you for bringing this to our attention. Please email hello@bendpak.com as we would like to further look into your situation.
Does repeated connection and disconnection of the hydraulic hoses eventually allow air into the system and require bleeding the air again after a period of time? Is it preferable to leave them connected unless necessary for storage, or does it make no difference?
Thanks for the question. The quick-connect fittings should not allow air into the system and are designed to be utilized as often as needed. They are particularly good for clearing the hoses out of the way to clear up the work area once the vehicle is lifted and secured on the QuickJack's locks.
Arrived with a broken bottle of liquid thread locker, which leaked everywhere making fittings sticky. This video, and the instructions said to use the (not) enclosed thread tape.
First off, our apologies for the inconvenience! Please contact QuickJack support to replace the thread sealant, either by phone (888) 262-3880 or via this link: help.quickjack.com/support/tickets/new Also, we have since updated the QuickJack assembly kit to include the liquid thread sealant instead of the thread seal tape. You can find more information in this video: ua-cam.com/video/aN0Z4n0FNws/v-deo.html
4:18 what is the power requirement? Can an extension cord supply sufficient current for it to operate? Is there a large inrush current when starting up that makes it unsuitable for generator power sources?
There are several power unit choices available depending on your region. In the U.S. the standard is a 110v power unit with a peak 15 amp power draw. We generally recommend against using extension cords, however if absolutely necessary, you can use a 14 gauge extension cord for up to 50 feet of length. We have a bit more on the common electric questions here: ua-cam.com/video/cgjaetg_zzM/v-deo.html
What is the MAXIMUM drive way slope that is safe to use a Quick jack? Can you LEVEL a quick jack if the slope is above the max angle?
ua-cam.com/video/h1GQKpYYf-c/v-deo.html
Doesn't seem a good idea to have it on anything other than a flat surface. Better off that it's not level then having one end of the jack propped up with anything. It's got to be a very severe angle for it to start sliding off the lift blocks. There's no wheels to deal with so nothing's going to roll, as is the case with standard floor jacks and their ilk being used on the slant.
Why do you require your customers to do basic assembly steps like attaching connectors to the hoses, and even perform basic quality control steps like checking for air leaks? I don't work for you, how about you ship a product that has undergone basic assembly and QC checks from the factory?
Is the pump the only difference?
Yes. While there have been some changes to QuickJack over the past few years, the current models are all the same except for several variances of the hydraulic power unit. You can always get the latest information from www.quickjack.com or giving us a call at 888-262-3880
Can I store a car on quickjack at first locking position over a winter?
Good question! Yes! Once it's on the lock you can disconnect the hoses and leave a vehicle lifted indefinitely. Be sure to depressurize the hoses before disconnecting the quick-connect fittings to give you an easier time later on when you're ready to reconnect the hoses.
@@quickjackusa How do you de pressurize before disconnecting them? Got mine today, once I pick up some trans fluid I’ll be ready to start but would love to be able to have the hoses disconnected once lifted. Thanks!
@@totalpackagedetailingllc4413 To depressurize the hoses all you have to do is - once the frames are in a locked position - press the down button on the controller for about 5 seconds.
What about maintenance?
All maintenance guidelines can be found in the manual at this link: www.quickjack.com/pub/downloads/QuickJack-Car-Lift-Manual.pdf Additionally, make sure to stay tuned here on the QuickJack UA-cam channel as we'll have some basic maintenance videos coming out soon!
I'm looking to get one in the UK, where's the best place?
the best place in the UK is www.quickjacklift.co.uk/ I answered my own question! Usually the case !! Thank God, after a long delay due to lockdown etc I've finally got mine! Thanks for the helpful video and for your company - God bless America ... and the UK!!!
After lifting the car to work on it. Do you disconnect the long hoses? Then reconnect to lower the car when work is done? Or do you keep the long hoses connected while the car is lifted?
Great question! Once the vehicle is up and the QuickJack frames are on one of the two locking positions you absolutely can disconnect the long hoses to open up your work area. However, definitely go ahead and make sure they are depressurized before disconnecting by holding the down button on the controller for at least 5 seconds. You can see more on depressurizing in this video: ua-cam.com/video/zoD-_Vn9Pqo/v-deo.html
Y'all sent me the most bogus set of quickjacks I'm telling you. First off they lifted funny but that was due to one air cylinder not holding air. Quick jack sent me a new one. Now the other side is leaking fluid from the seal. Its not terribly bad yet but i noticed it when i stood them up to put them away. This is the second time they picked up my car. I bought them may 2tth 2021. Im about over these things already. I swear i got the set that picked up all that weight and had a cylinder cut in half.😭🤣🤣
Sorry to hear about the issues you've been having! As far as your leak is concerned, please refer to the manual for troubleshooting and of course our tech support team is available to help you get that sorted out. You can contact us at (888) 262-3880 or online at this link: help.quickjack.com/support/tickets/new
in the assembly book it says never lift the jacks unless there is a car on them, and there is nothing in the manual about bleeding the system
Sorry about that! Here's the link to the latest version of the QuickJack manual www.quickjack.com/pub/downloads/QuickJack-Car-Lift-Manual.pdf The bleeding procedure can be found on page 31.
It would be nice if a hex key is included for bleeding considering spend $1,500..
Your buying quick jacks and don’t have a hex key?
You shouldn’t be buying this then
At 3:28, QuikJack says to install the lower fitting first, so as to make the installation of the upper fitting easier. Right process, but wrong reasoning. I think that the upper fitting would be easier to install if the lower was not there. The lower fitting should be installed first, because the upper fitting will get in the way of installing the lower fitting later.
Right concept, wrong wording. Makes the installation of the lower fitting easier, not upper.
My 5000 came with no shirt hose male fittings. Just it came with 4 male power unit fittings and 4 female long cable fittings.
Our apologies for the mix up!! Please contact our support team and we'll get that straightened out for you! www.quickjack.com/support/ or call 888-262-3880
How about making this downloadable?
I got my quick jack the 7000 one. And I got everything all set up. Got it elevated and now it won’t go back down. There is a red light on the top and it makes a clicking noise every time I press down. Any advice ?
Sorry for the trouble! Unfortunately, we'd need a bit more information to troubleshoot your issue. Please contact our support team at 888-262-3880 or online via this link: help.quickjack.com/support/tickets/new You can also refer to the troubleshooting guide in the manual (the latest copy can be found online here: www.quickjack.com/pub/downloads/QuickJack-Car-Lift-Manual.pdf)
What model Quick jack are you using to lifting the Mustang ?
I just got the 5000TLX for my 24.
Can you stagger your lifting blocks in different heights from front to back?
Great question! You can stagger the blocks as long as they all contact the lift points evenly and simultaneously, allowing the vehicle to lift in a neutral position with the weight evenly distributed. There should never be any tilt front to back or side to side.
Hello, I got to the testing stage and it went up but won’t come down. The pump did a click when I pressed down, but nothing happens
Any help is hugely appreciated!
Apologies for the inconvenience! If you have not yet bled the system, go ahead and bleed the air out. It may also be necessary to put a small amount of whichever hydraulic fluid you're using around the chrome rod, right where it comes out of the hydraulic cylinder. This helps lubricate the system and can assist the cylinder break-in. Lastly, once the system is bled, if the frames don't want to come down, just add a bit of weight to them and that should do the trick. Ultimately, this issue is caused by the cylinder seals needing to break-in.
how do i know if i have a breather valve? the one i have has 1 small hole in the middle. so i need to loosen the nut where i fill the pump before i use the jack? i just got mine today- letting the thread sealer dry before use tomorrow
Great question! The manual has a description of both styles of breather, refer to that manual to determine which you have. The latest manual can be found online at: www.quickjack.com/support/downloads/ and if you need any further assistance, you can call our support team at (888) 262-3880 or submit an online support request here: help.quickjack.com/support/tickets/new
So why exactly doesn't this already come set up? All that should have to be done is fill the air and fluid. Seems like a hassle to put together.
Can you drop your transmission in the space the quick jack gets you on a 06 mustang?
Thanks for the question! While we can't say specifically on the make/model - we have many customers regularly using the QuickJack to drop/swap transmissions.
FYI, your Downloads link no longer works because Downloads is now in the Support folder.
Thanks for pointing that out, the link has been updated!
When bleeding the system after I use it and disconnect the pressure hoses do I have to bleed them again in every use?
As long as you're using the Quick Connect fittings, there is no need to re-bleed the system. The only time you would need to bleed the system again is if you were to loosen the threaded fittings on the hoses, frames or power unit. Also if you do a full fluid change it is recommended to bleed again at that point. For more information please check the QuickJack manual at this link: www.quickjack.com/pub/downloads/QuickJack-Car-Lift-Manual.pdf or if you have any further questions, please feel free to reach out to our support team: (888) 262-3880 or online via: help.quickjack.com/support/tickets/new
@@quickjackusa awesome thank you so much I'm on my way to buy some right now, awesome product
how much it weighs?
Great question! The lightest QuickJack frame is 60 pounds (BL3500SLX) and the heaviest is 110 pounds (BL6000XLT) so it ultimately depends on which QuickJack model you'd need. You can get specs on all models at www.quickjack.com/compare/specifications/
Hi sir, do you ship to Malaysia?
What can you do with these? Take off tires lol? There is not enough lift
Anything you can do with a floor jack, without the hassle of the floor jack! Lifting all four corners simultaneously is a huge advantage over a jack. Once lifted and locked there's great access from the sides to the wheels, brakes and suspension components. Plus, with up to two feet of lift height, there's clearance underneath to take care of fluid service, exhaust work, or drop a transmission. Check out our videos as well as the many others on UA-cam to see how QuickJack can help your automotive workflow! Of course, if you have the space for a full-size two or four-post lift, our parent company can help out with that as well, check out www.bendpak.com to see our full selection of lifts and equipment.
You need to mount wheels on your Quick Jack, they are too heavy to adjust under the car. I think of resilient ball rollers that you drill into the lift so it becomes easy to move around and adjust the lift under the car.
That might also make the system unstable with a car on it.
exactly! jack and stands are way faster and easier to use than this. they should spring load the wheels so it can support it's own weight to roll around and compress to lay on its frame when weight is applied to it
@@gwot that'd be a nice setup, like those step stools with spring loaded wheels that retract with weight on them. Just have to make sure it's not going to reduce clearance by getting overly high though.