Quickjack review: How I dropped my car.
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- So I got me this here quickjack to help me do work under the car. And I find out the hard way that warnings exist for a reason. The quickjack is awesome, btw. This is "operator error." Please consider helping me pay for all this stuff (and damage) by contributing a buck or two to the cause on my Patreon page: / alexltdlx
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As someone preparing to set up my own quickjack, I sincerely appreciate you allowing me to learn from your mistake.
The joys of learning with QuickJack! We had a great time watching your upload, but we were biting our nails when we noticed you didn't disengage the opposite locks! Glad you were not harmed. We've been working on a way to disengage these locks remotely, but the more fancy things you put on a lift, the more things that can fail. Sorry about the Schrader valve issue and appreciate your patience with that.
Lol. I really like the thing. I wouldn't mess with it much - like you say, more stuff, more things to go wrong. It's a pretty brilliant design as is - super strong, stable, easy to use and safe. I'm still a bit shaken by the experience, but EXPERIENCE is the key word here. Someone once said, "You don't learn from success." The slipping was on me, and if I wasn't shooting a video at the time, I doubt it would have happened. Hopefully this works as a "street team" marketing tool for you. The title and "action" will attract views, and once they see how good it is (while reinforcing the safety aspects), maybe you'll see some more movement. I'm going to send you an email about an idea I have...
But you already have designed it to disengage the locks remotely and I use it all the time.
The cam design is a beautiful and amazing design that I'm sure most people don't realize can automatically release the locks. As you go up, the cam goes flips over the locking tab to open up and clicks. If you go down at that point, it locks. If you go up just a bit further, the front part (leading edge) of the cam lobe will go over the locking tab in the rail. At this point if you go down, the cam will flip/rotate into a position that will allow it to ride over the locking tab, i.e. it is unlocked. So to automatically disengage the locks all that is necessary is to be able to move the cam far enough beyond the locking tab to allow it to unlock.
"remote" unlocking already works for the first locking position and I use it all the time.
"remote" unlocking currently does not work for the 2nd (highest) locking position.
It appears that there was a design/marketing choice in the current design that traded a bit of additional height at expense of not being able to remotely disengage the top most locking position since the jack hits the end just before the cam can get to the position needed to disengage the lock.
You guys (Quickjack) a little while back have said that there is a new design that adds additional height. My suggestion would be the sacrifice a tiny bit of that new height to allow using the remote lock disengagement ability alaredy built into the cams on the top most locking position. That would be AWESOME!
A new product with bit of added lifting height *and* the ability to remotely disengage the locks on the top most position.
I would agree with the poster below. Why wouldn't you give us that extra bit of lift so that there is NO difference in unlocking from either position, just plain poor engineering. The cam unlock works perfectly on the first lock and is basically idiot proof whereas the second lock you can get in trouble as evidenced in the video. Why would anyone market such a good product with such an obvious design flaw. All in all, a really good product and I am pleased with mine even with a minor flaw.
Hey QJ. How about designing a wheel kit so we can move our QJ's around easier without blowing out our backs!!!
Appreciate the author sharing the experience. These are invaluable for learning. Also very cool that QuickJack replied. The solution can be a simple design approach. Attach an ominous and decal next to both safety cams that shows a hazard icon and a simple admonition, "Unlock BOTH sides!".
I saw it coming immediately when you went to the other side and didn't unlock it. You were distracted by making the video. It is rare that anyone posts their mistakes, thanks for doing that, it is a valuable example of what to be aware of that can go dangerously wrong.
Yeah, apparently I'm not the only one this has happened to, judging by the comments. I figure if it keeps 1 person from getting hurt, it's worth a little laughter at my expense...
I saw it too - I've had mine for almost four years, and I'm keeping myself wary and check-twice about everything. Don't want to dump my car or hurt myself. But it's a great tool - far more predictable than jack stands, especially for the working height you get!
agreed. Videos like this help us all because we ALL learn what not to do. I've watched a bunch this week and learned a lot of things to be aware of. Thanks!
Props for not editing out your mistake. Great video. Thank you for posting.
Much appreciated to confess "our" mistakes. This is a lesson we (i) will use when installing my 7000tlx. thanks
I am happy to see that no one got hurt, but I am happy to learn from your experience.
Keeping it real!
I appreciate the candor and showing some of the learning curves you had with the new tool you bought. Thank you. It will help others (and definitely myself!) prevent making the same thing happen. This subscription and like for being real about it.
Thanks!
Watching these oops videos is actually a good training lesson. Right when he pushed the down button my heart stopped and I yelled at the video screen!! 😂. Reminds me of the OSHA training I took years ago. Kudos for sharing and taking your lumps for the benefit of the rest of us 👍
Thanks Keith. That was the idea (though some people don't see it that way). I was inexperienced with it and busy shooting a video at the same time. Could've been a lot worse, but hopefully it helps some people. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing your experience, I just bought a set of these and it's a valuable reminder for new owners.
There is another insidious danger state that I accidentally discovered with my QJ. If you go up just a little too far before going back down, it will create a "false lock" with the cam instead of the lock bar end. That will support weight, but be prone to sudden breaking free of the lock. If it locks against the actual lock bar end, it is very secure. However, if it falsely locks with the cam, it is a potential death trap if it suddenly pops the cam free with you under the vehicle.
Absolutely verify that the lock bar itself is creating the lock. If you raise the QJ up a little too far before letting it settle back down to lock, you can create an unsafe, false lock with the cam jamming agains the stop. That will support weight, but be prone to sudden lock release. BAM, the entire side may fall all the way down if the lock bar doesn't happen to catch against the stop as the cam pops out of "false lock." Always halt going up as soon as the lock bars just clear the stop. Don't let the cam get between the end of the lock bar and stop. If you do that, you will create a potentially catastrophic "false lock" against just the cam.
That's a really good point. thanks!
This -- I am borrowing a friend's and this happened to me on my first try. Upon watching this video here I realize that the proper way to do it is to only raise just past the point that the cam goes over the stop bar and then lower the jack so the safety bar was engaged. Interestingly, I only had this problem on one side. If it had happened on both sides I may have incorrectly assumed that it was working properly (which would have been user error). But it almost caught me out.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I've been looking at these for a while and want to get them. Glad the damage was just a "warning shot".
I try to live my life as an example not to be followed. I do like the quickjack a lot though.
I did the same damn thing last year. Raised my Honda Accord to the highest setting point. I then lowered it to lock it in place. The drivers side bar locked but the passenger side did not, I assumed it did without checking. I went into the house for a few minutes and came back out to find the car slanted at a downward angle on the passenger side. I absolutely shit my pants. I grabbed the remote and was able to raise the car back to the level point. I then engaged the lock bar in its proper place. I got very lucky! From that point on every time I use this thing I double check my locking points once the lock bars are in place and firmly set. There was no damage to my car or the Quick Jack, thank god. Overall this is a very nice and safe portable lift and I highly recommend it fort those of us wanting a lift that don’t have space in the garage for a full size or scissor lift. Thanks for your video. I’m glad I’m not the only one this happened too.
Yeah - it's not a joke. But hopefully it only takes 1 such incident for it to never happen again. Glad to hear you're ok.
IN the immortal words of Benny Hill: "Learning all the time!" That's a painful learning experience, but it sure reinforces the value of a thorough read of the owner's manual.
Thank you for your humble wisdom, we are individually better when we admit mistakes, we are all better when we share them.
Thanks for sharing your experience. It's great to see no one was harmed and hope your QJ was OK.
It's fine. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Excellent video sir! Awesome commitment to honesty and openness! Hydraulic fluids cause gangrene and infections almost immediately. Really, in a day where UA-camrs are obsessed with seeming cooler than they are, you chose the path less traveled and for that, I say thank you.
Wow - I didn't know they were so toxic. I guess injected subcutaneously makes it worse. Many moons ago, a friend of mine who owns a high $$ boutique post facility in NYC (now in LA too) once said to me, "You're the coolest loser I know." Kinda set the tone for the next 20+ years...
@@AlexLTDLX Ha! I'm right with you. And also, usually the safest way to find a hydraulic leaks is to actually use a sheet of paper to find the stream. Most guys don't realize, at 10,000psi and above the smallest pin hole will weep and look like a simple drip. However, that pinhole is also shooting the fluid out at several 100 mph in a very small jet (invisible), small enough to cut your skin. The gangrene happens because the wound is usually small, so guys dont bother to clean it out. Fast forward a few days, and it gets really bad really quick.. Anyways. good stuff man. Take care!
have the exact same model and is an awesome tool. have lifted my 2 cars and SUV many times with confidence.
I almost had a mishap last week.
The job is replacing rear springs on a 330i while also doing an oil change...minute detail now...but important.
Rear wheels off. working on drivers side. shock disconnected and pushing down to remove the spring, no issue (besides me not seeing the headlight leveling sensor and almost breaking that). The issue was the new spring install (verified via MFG and trusted parts supplier that I have the correct spring) was ~2 inches longer than old spring. Got the spring into place, but needed to jack up the suspension support arm (contains the spring and shock) to align the lower support bolt to the wheel carrier. While jacking it up gently noticed the gap to insert the bolt CEASED to close and jacked a bit more and started hearing other noises (like metal grinding/crunching bits of stone/sand). Little voice in my head was saying thats new and not a usual sound when using the QJ...a bit more jacking...sound continues. THEN I freeze as I realize what the change is...the whole car on both QJ is tilting forward (the crunching sound) as it starts to pivot on the front QJ hinge (much shorter lever)
Long story short...go the car down safely. Did not do rear springs job...another day.
LESSON: if you are needing to lift with a hydraulic jack to accomplish suspension work, use ramps (suspension already compressed and can resist the jacking moment) or jack stands (hard resistance to jacking moment)...period
I have the 7000 series for 3 years! I used it for an engine swap. This thing made my life earlier when changing as simple as brakes and oil.
that fluid injection thing is terrifying holy shit. i just built mine with the video guide and didn’t read all that... thanks for posting this video, you’ve encouraged me to take the manual more seriously (as in, read it cover to cover) so i don’t hurt myself or damage my car. 😅
thats why its good to wear heavy gloves and some eye protection. you don't want a cut or goes into your eyes
Thanks for posting. Probably happens more often than not. Good reminder to pay attention to the even the simplest steps
I left that in for two reasons - more people will watch a failure than success, and also hopefully it saves someone some drama. Thanks!
Great video, problem-solution, and lesson learned in one. Gloves, safety glasses and boots are so often forgotten in these DIY videos, my father drummed it into me when I started changing cylinder heads and shock absorbers with him when I was 9!
I also keep my units on the floor, they fit snuggly between the front wheels.
Thanks. Keep tabs on them - I'm second guessing storing them under the car. When I pull in after a drive, the exhaust pipes are right over them. I think the heat from the exhausts is causing expansion inside the quickjacks. I found a bunch of fluid leaked out, but there are no obvious leaks. They haven't leaked since, but I have yet to do a real test to verify this theory.
Glad you're ok, thanks for sharing your "human" moment. It's a good learn
I believe the user manual does not adequately cover this potential situation. It is not specific enough. When this happened to me, I was so freaked out. The 2 stacked blocks rolled over at all 4 corners. I stabilized the vehicle by placing a mechanical jack on the low side of the vehicle while I called the QJ support line. The lady could not help me correct the situation. Then, I realized I could release the high locked side by removing the lock bar. Fortunately, QJ designed that to be done by removing one nut. But to do that I had to bump the QJs up enough to release the load from the lock bar. That scared the heck out of me. The car was trying to slide off the QJ. But, the car did not fall and I was able to lower it.
Awesome that you shared that mistake, we all learn from mistakes. Good on you!
Thanks - sometimes you just got to fall on your sword; hopefully it helps keep people safe. Scared the heck out of me, that's for sure.
This plus race ramp cribs are probably great together
I called it right when I saw it. I was, "You didn't unlock the other side, you edi.....oh, there it goes." I was cringing as I heard the sounds of "The ships going down!" I'm very tempted to purchase these. It's just the price...... I'm on a tight fixed budget I setup for myself but it it comes a time where I need to be lifting my car a lot, I will make the purchase. Thanks for the video!!!
6:39 you forgot to unlock the other side before lowering it down. I'm so glad I watched this video because I could see me making the same mistake. I'm glad it worked out and didn't hurt anything or anyone!
I learned this the hard way: both frames need to move up and down in perfect sync. If they don’t, one arm can end up traveling farther than the other. When you lower it back down to lock QJ, one lock engages first, but it can’t handle the larger share of the weight of the car, causing it to pop out of position - the outcome is very similar to yours.
Great video, thanks for sharing this information 👍
Great video. But: another way to get the hubs off is to bolt the rotor back on to the hub, and then put a long bolt through one of the caliper bracket holes with a nut between the rotor and the knuckle. Tighten the nut so the bolt pushes against the rotor. After a few turns, loosen it up, spin the rotor 180º, and repeat. It takes ~10 minutes and, in my experience, will break free even the most belligerent of rotors (with lug nuts removed) or hubs (with lug nuts and rotors installed).
Great tip!
Great video 👍👍
I'm going to buy one.
I noticed that you didn't release the driver side safety when you walked around to pull out the jack stand. We all make mistakes, main thing is no one got hurt.
Watched Hill Street Blues every Thursday night at 9pm here in TX. Close call with the car glad to see no major damage got inflicted.
Thanks man!
Hey, it's a jungle out there. Last episode made me cry. 😢
And hey! Let's be careful out there.
@7:50 The warning about a hydraulic fluid leak is no joke. I was in the hospital for minor surgery years ago and a guy was brought in to share the room with me who had been working on a hydraulic line that pinholed. The high pressure fluid pierced one of his fingers and blew it up like a balloon. He said that it was the most painful thing he'd ever experienced. He also told me that he had previously survived throat cancer for which he had undergone extremely painful radiation therapy, but that blowing up his finger with hydraulic fluid was way worse. (As evidenced by the fact that he puked a couple of times that afternoon from just the pain.) I left the next day and don't know the final outcome for him. But I do know that the doctor was openly worried about whether he was going to lose the finger.
So yes, that warning may sound a little creepy, but it's serious.
Before reading the warning in the manual, I've never really thought about it before. Thanks for sharing the story - it just confirms the warning.
Wood is cheaper than blood and parts. I place wooden cribbing below EVERY heavy object I raise on jacks. Wood doesn't tend to slip and deforms slightly to grab steel etc lowered onto it. I got the idea in Desert Shield watching Ammo store Mark 84s on wooden cribbing. If wood is good for multiple 2000lb bombs it's worth considering. I buy a long 4x4 or 6x6 now and then (I have many objects needing cribbing), cut it to ~18" lengths and drill for pull ropes like an aircraft chock.
A neighbor of mine is a full time home painter, he was cleaning his spray gun and it malfunctioned and he “sprayed” aka “injected” paint under very high pressure into his skin and tissue and it nearly killed him!!!!!!!!!!
He lost a finger and still might lose his hand, the drs said he is very lucky he did not lose his life and they are still very concerned long term what might happen w his organs…..
Messy w any fluid under high pressure can kill you!!!!! This warning in the video is not a joke, again it can kill you!!!!
Wow. Sorry to hear about your friend. But thanks for reinforcing the dangers.
@@AlexLTDLX thanks, I think he was hospitalized for nearly 4 months, sucks even more that he was 700 miles from home when it happened as he was out of town doing a contract job for a friend so his family had limited time to see him due to distance!
This happened right before Covid hit on top of all that mess!!
I bought QJ about 7 years ago and still using it. Handy
Had exactly the same issues with my new 7000# version missing valves and within the first week had one side not disengage but caught it before any damage
I guessed right away cause I did the same thing!
I’m glad i found this as having similar experiences. What i have found is the quick jack is good for light work. You pick the car up and leave it on the locks and all is good. However, any amount of up and down (like a real lift) can cause the blocks/adapters to shift and the car can fall due to the geometry of the quick jack and the stress it puts on the lift blocks when the car is coming off the ground. Also, despite what quick jack says, stacking the rubber blocks makes it even more questionable.
I have read that several people have drilled holes for pins to go through the lifting lock arm to prevent what you say has happened to you. Also, I cannot believe the way these guys were hammering on the Cadillac up on the QJ. If anything could make it jump over the lock, this would be it.
Excellent review and transparency!
Lol I was yelling when u started lowering it…”what about the other side!!!”
Lol. That would've been very helpful!
I've done similar as a tech on an old school 4post that had 4 separate locks. Didn't drop off the hoist, but was at a scary angle when it stopped
Yeah, I hear you. It's too bad I wasn't concerned with video at the time, because it really is like a giant, scary version of Jenga when the car's still partially up in the air and you're trying to figure out how to get it safely down.
Hats off for making a video about a mistake. I feel like that is an easy mistake to make, will definitely make sure not to do that
I got the 7000 model and put my 5 series on those included blocks for weeks and they began to crush and deform. So I had to replace them with the steel extension pads that are extra cost and those things are indestructible.
Good idea. I'm using 6x6 lumber cut exactly to size to help with mine.
Thanks for sharing this video.
I have one and have never had one moment of a problem with it. I spotted your mistake immediately and figured it was because you were filming. I always listen for the double clank as the two arms move back in the channel. I also never stand alongside my car when lifting or lowering. The only real danger from it is tipping over because of one-sided failure and I don't want to be there.
I would have taken my thumb off the down button if I heard that first noise. You didn't because you were distracted. It did make for a really good video and teaches people so they can avoid this issue.
Smart using jack stands
If the Schrader valves threads are loose, use a little PTFE tape.
Man it looks like Costco has the 7000-seires with the truck/suv extensions and wall hangers for something like $1700. That is SOOOOO tempting!! Tired of breaking my back scrooching down to reach the wheels for brake jobs and such.
Yeah, despite my error, it's an awesome product. One that frankly hasn't been ruined by lawyers (yet). I'd say go for it.
Thanks for the warning
Many aspects of my life are examples of what not to do...
I knew what was going to happen as soon as you lifted the cam on the passenger side at 5:55 ... :/ Heard a voice in my head yelling "NOOOoooooooo....."
Whew! An excellent learning opportunity! Glad that you're OK... It could have been so much worse. PS: I've got a 7, 00lb QJ and LOVE IT!
It's pretty awesome. Do you find the bigger one heavy? There's supposedly a 20lb per side weight difference.
@@AlexLTDLX I'm weak, so yeah. Lol. Seriously though, I'm an average sized dude... I would say it's heavy but I don't strain nor struggle to move it by myself. The rollers certainly help. Also, I have the wall mount brackets which are a bit awkward lifting the Jack's onto them because they are flush with the wall, but I wouldn't say it's hard.
What's the largest one they make. My Tundra is 7200lb
@@rlachermeier FYI: it appears as though the Gross vehicle weight is 7200lbs, which is the TOTAL weight of the vehicle: vehicle PLUS occupants PLUS payload. The curb weight is what you should be use when considering which jack to get, so the 7000lbs should work.
@@rlachermeier yeah it looks like Tundra weigh anywhere from 5100 to 5700 lbs. Joe is right about GVWR. Get the 7,000lb units and you should be fine.
Dangerous quick jack
I've been jockying jacks and stands around on various sketchy surfaces for over 40 years.
My QJ7000 showed up a few days ago and l was considering making an unboxing/setup video... you made up my mind for me; Nope.
I should really focus on the instructions.
Click bait tag lines notwithstanding, every review or video that I've read or watched promising vehicular mayhem at the hands of QuickJack were actually caused by operator error.
Also, like you, every single one owned-up to their error, outlined the fail and how to avoid it.
I'm excited to finish assembly and get to work.
Review well done. Pretty lucky oversight wasn't any more serious. I saw that coming as soon as you lowered the car. I'm thinking about getting the quick jacks, your review helped.
Glad to hear it helped; and hopefully this potential issue stays in the top of your mind. Not to make excuses for my negligence, but between shooting the video and my dad and cousin passing away just a little over a month earlier, my mind wasn't on things as well as it should have been. Judging by some of the comments, a few other people had this happen to them too. Other than that, they are pretty awesome to have in your garage. Swapping from slicks and skinnies to street tires has never been easier...
I can understand how that would be easy to overlook, I don't own them and have run that scenario through my head. Glad you didn't get hurt. Sorry to hear about your family members.
Bought the 7000, only to give me a little extra Safety, heavier duty ! Although, still not sure I would actually get completely underneath without using Jack stand’s on all four corners ? Does anyone agree/disagree ?
From the 7000 manual: “You must always use auxiliary safety stands under the Vehicle while elevated on both QuickJack Frames.” I’d say it’s a good idea even with the demonstrated strength of the QJ.
I noticed the issue immediately. I was like isn't he going to release the other lock? Also I didn't see you double check that all the lines were safety out of the way and weren't going to get cut.
To me you could have died if the car shifted your direction and fell on you or you could have been pinned as you were in a very tight spot. I would stand way back while lowering.
Glad you weren't hurt and the car is ok. My brother has the 7k version and we have loved it. No issues for us.
Fluid injection is no joke. I always wear heavy gloves, and glasses to protect my eyes...
4 good jack stands and a low profile floor jack is the way to go!
That's what I was doing for years. But you must admit, it's time consuming, painful (particularly if you're middle aged and had a broken back at one point), and it's always a bit sketchy with the car sitting at angles throughout the process. But it certainly does work. If you have the money and space, quickjack is a vast improvement (provided you're not shooting a video at the time and do what I did...) I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment!
@@AlexLTDLX I have the money.. small garage… I can jack my car up (with a bad back) and put 4 jack stands under the frame in 4 minutes.. also don’t have to move the heavy quick lift around. Also, I have two Prius’s and I think the ground clearance might be an issue.. but what ever works for you. Thanks for the video it was interesting…
Man as soon as I saw you remove that stand and walk away, I was like, "uh oh..." I've made similar mistakes lol. I'm glad it wasn't a catastrophic experience man.
Thanks. I'd like to think I was distracted by shooting the video at the same time; but I guess we all make mistakes.
I did noted that you didn't unlock the left side before you said it. I did watch the whole thing but i figured it out before that.
Psa for quick jack owners. Check your psi in each side of your hydraulics before lifting any cars. On my 7000 unit the psi is 50max if I'm correct.
Good point. And I think you're right about the 50 psi. It changes with temperature, too.
@@AlexLTDLX I also do a dry test lift before lifting any car to ensure they go up or down even.
@@OneManOnFire How do you get them back down?
@@AlexLTDLX Stand on them I'm only 140 pounds
@@OneManOnFire That's a god idea. Frankly, I did raise mine up a little without a load, but since the manual clearly said not to do that, I didn't go very far. I guess it would be difficult to get them down from full extension; but I guess you certainly don't have to go up very far to be sure they go up evenly, it's probably not a bad idea.
Man, these are a bunch more expensive in Australia. What a shame.
first time in my life I've seen someone work on a car with an axe. Well at least not a crazy ex...
lol
Oof! Glad it was user error…I guess.
A couple weeks ago I picked up one, from Costco, to celebrate a milestone.
I haven’t unboxed it yet.
Congrats. They are great pieces - I was distracted by shooting the video. I have no issues sharing my mistakes with the world :)
When you were lowering the car I was thinking "did you release the other side?" Oops!
Watching the video, yelling “opposite lock!” to my iPad screen and reading the comments, I am surprised that people working in a tool rich garage and buying this equipement do not think like a mechanic. I always wonder why those stickers are on equipement and manuals become unreadable because of warnings and cautions. But apparently they are necessary for the tools using them. (Pun intended)
Update 3/8/21 I decided to go with the 5000 series seeing that a full size pickup or 7 passenger SUV is not happening. It's ordered.
3/7/21 Damn! I sold. I been looking at this for over a year. I might get the XL 7000. I seen them also at Home Depot too. Maybe I will catch a sale.
BTW it's pretty sturdy with all that sledge hammer beating
Just got mine yesterday from the same Home Depot monster deal. Haven't seen that price in years. I couldn't miss out this time around!
How much did you buy it for? Want one for my q50s
They were going for around $1050
I was wondering why u didn’t record yourself unlocking the other side 😂
I wish I had. 😱 I am an example of what not to do...
Why didn't you use a slide hammer for the wheel bearing....
I have the TL and I'd say it's ok, but only if you're lucky and get one without a defective air cylinder. If you do get one of those you're screwed - the company will 100% not stand behind their product. They'll claim the air-assist down isn't "necessary to the function of the lift". Really? So if one side has air assist down and the other doesn't, and they drop unevenly, that's safe? And then when the vehicle drops to the ground and one side of the lift goes straight to the full down position while the other... doesn't. You need to wait... and wait... and wait for it to drop with no weight on it. Quickjack will claim this "is normal operation" and that "it will get better over time". If you invest a massive amount of time trying to get them to stand behind their product they will, eventually, after burning through every once of customer goodwill, send out a new cylinder. Yay! Until you get the replacement and the freakin' air side is literally capped off. Like intentionally made unusable. That's not a fix guys. Then they'll claim that the engineers decided the down-assist wasn't necessary and that they've changed the design on future models. But I didn't buy a future model with less functionality. I bought the current model with exactly the functionality I wanted, was promised, and paid for. Whatever. Too much time wasted on it already - I've written off the entire company as another skanky marketing hack with no integrity.
I still have it in my shop, but the company worked very hard to make me regret my purchase and it low-key pisses me off every time I look at it. And honestly the setup is inconvenient enough that even when I do pull it out - warts and all - it happens very rarely. Only when I have a longer term project where I know the vehicle will be on the lift for a week or two. Definitely not for things like oil or tire changes. It's just way quicker to use a floor jack, or even ramps.
You didn't lower the "cam lobe" on the other side. Whoops!!!
Is there a left and right side?...Just got mine..........
Yeah; or more specifically, there's a particular side that's supposed to be facing out. I'm not in a place to check them out now, but in the part of the video with the LTD up on the jacks, I'm fairly certain they're right side out. I remember having the same question.
@@AlexLTDLX Thanks.....Going to put mine together this Sunday...Trying to get all the info first.....JB.........
You should mule kick wheels to break it loose.
In my 30 plus years of working on cars, I've never seen wheels stuck on a hub that badly.
@@AlexLTDLX I’ve had one like that before. Definitely a pain in the ass.
At the beginning of the video, did you say this was a Bend Pak product?
Yes
thanks for the real review! Your neighbour with the big hammer is funny :D I guess he wear no steal toe shoes but safety goggles... Now i'll check out the quickjack hp. Greetings from Germany (it's europe)
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. My dad actually grew up in a displaced persons camp in mittenwald.
I was like don't lower it the second you're lowering the jack. I instantly knew you didn't unlock the other side....
lol... I wish I did...
it's a Lift you operated a full size lift you can use this
I’d like to try one of these larger models
On my E250 econoline work van.
It’s a heavy beast and a pain to even get all four sides off the ground with floor jacks and jack stands.
Not sure if their 7000
Model would handle my van.
Great informative video!
Yea I abide by that same warning working on aircraft with hydraulic pressure of 3000 psi..will definitely go directly into your body!
It's still kind of mind blowing to me. And a bit scary, tbh.
How stable is your quickjack at full height? I have one and used it 2 times now, and notice at full height it wobbles a bit and kind of worries me. At level 1 height it's fine but then it's so low to work under...
Mine seems pretty stable. Assuming I don't screw up again.
I think you had your QJ's backwards. Turn them 180. The safety bars should be lowering in the direction of the rear of the car (not the front). At least all the pics and videos I've seen the lowering direction goes towards the rear of the car. I labeled my QJ's Left, Right, Front, Rear.
Front/back doesn't matter - I have the pump unit at the front of the car. Left/right does - as you point out, you want to see the the locking cams clearly.
Whew, glad the car is basically okay and more importantly that you're okay.
Also those hubs don't give nearly the fight here in Texas 😉
Thanks man. Those hubs were ridiculous. I'm actually considering moving to the gulf coast in a couple of years. I'm headed down that way in the next few months to start looking around. Anywhere from Rockport, TX to St. Pete, FL is fair game at the moment...
So pretty much you just forgot about the lock on the other side as you were giving the demonstration on the side you were on.
Yeah, that's about the size of it. It wasn't the quickjack's fault - it was, to use a term heard all too frequently in my business, "operator error." I was too wrapped up in getting the shot than lowering the car safely. It's on me, but hopefully this prevents someone else from doing it, and who doesn't love a good fail?
So much air in your system. You need to go through the steps again. Mine is instant movement. Fluid doesn't compress. Air does.
This thing would honestly be in my garage at $1000 for the 5klbs lift. I think $1500 is a bit much, a little more and I can get a genuine lift and stand underneath a car.
Noticed it right away. That super sucks it happened.
Yeah; I put it up again to replace a fuel line and since I wasn't shooting, I wasn't distracted. But I'm not going to hide my failures - you learn nothing from success (well, a lot less at least)...
@@AlexLTDLX it definitely seams like something other ppl have done tho lol. Can’t wait to get one of these for my garage
My dad loved Hill Street Blues, I thought it was boring compared to the other shows we had at that time to watch! I hope your neighbor bought oem parts otherwise you will be putting your hub tool to use again real soon!
He bought Detroit Axle hubs... dunno if they're good or not. And I agree with you about Hill Street Blues. But heck, we were glad we had color. Today media is about a trillion times more awesome for viewers.
@@AlexLTDLX Well today we have far more choices on what we can watch but network TV completely sucks.
but you removed BOTH jack stands. Your mind was like "OK, both sides checked."
Is there a cam that locks on both sides
Yeah, but they're separate.
Next time you have a wheel frozen to the hub a good way to do it is to put one lug nut on just a couple threads and then go under the car and hit the inside edge of the rim with a heavy rubber mallet or you can use a block of wood and a mini sledge! The key is to hit the rim and not the tire, Obviously the rubber absorbs all of the shock! In the past 26 years working as a Mechanic I have never caused any type of damage nor have I ever thrown a wheel off balance!
These things were frozen on there. They actually have a tool that does the same thing. The design is dumb - at the very least, there should be some sort of anti-seize in there. It was ridiculous how much effort it took.
life changing experience I had with a stuck wheel was taking another wheel off and hitting the stuck wheel with the one I took off in 2 hits it was free. remember hit rubber on rubber for this and it will work amazingly I promise.
Interested to know how big of a sale you got there from Home Depot
I paid just over a grand - under 1100
@@AlexLTDLX that is USD you are talking about right?
I saw your mistake the second you hit the down button.
You don’t just buy one of these and ‘hope’ it will hold… the vehicle has a weight stamped on it. That Cadillac is over 5000 lbs.
That's incorrect. The weight you're thinking of - what's stamped on the tag - is the GWVR; the weight of the vehicle with a full payload. The full payload of that car is around 1,200lbs. The actual car weighs about 4,200 lbs. This should help clarify things for you: www.energy.gov/eere/vehicles/fact-621-may-3-2010-gross-vehicle-weight-vs-empty-vehicle-weight If they managed to get something that (relatively)small to weight over two and a half tons, the thing would have to have the thickest sheetmetal I've ever seen. I only needed the Quickjack to hold ~85% of it's rated capacity - which is did easily. Considering my race car weighs about 3,300-3,500 real lbs (been weighed a bunch of times, and depends on power adder and the amount of ice on board), this was a great test.
You could have used heat to remove the front end.
Late to the game here. The jacks are perfectly fine. I see a lot of suggestions, but those tend to be from people that would never post the fact THEY made a mistake. Clearly you have a ton of integrity,,,, very good on ya,,,,,, and have posted an objective and honest review of the potential problems with the jacks (schrader valve) and the potential for USER ERROR.
See people?? It’s easy to admit to your mistakes and not be cut down for it. In fact you should be thanked for your honesty in the interest of helping others to NOT make the same mistake.
I like the product. I have several 4 post lifts for car storage (ran out of floor space, but have lots of height) that occasionally are used by a friend to work on their vehicles. I also have a 2 post lift for myself when I work on my vehicles. I always seem to have one on the go, even when not trying. It’s a chore just keeping the oils changed in over a dozen classic vehicles. Some are only really classic to me (Fiero 😂😂) but nonetheless they are all mint now except the current project of another El Camino. These might be good to have for warmer days when a buddy shows up with their muddy trucks to change the oil. Lifting them and working on them makes a real mess that I’m not happy about, they do clean up, but not quite to my standards,,, haha. I’m picky, but that’s my problem. The scissor jacks I have are older, but work well. Unfortunately they are hard to use for exhaust work and work on the centre of any vehicle, including changing oil in a transmission. We just don’t drag them out. It’s like they are museum relic,,,, 😂.
Regardless. Great video!! You are the kind of guy everyone wants for a neighbour!!
What was your assembly time for this not including the time for the run t to pick up the missing part? Thanks.
I don't recall, but it was pretty close to nothing. Very easy to put together over all.