A 2nd order network on the tweeter at 1.5khz with a 3/4 in dome?! Excellent design work. The waveguide with a wide surround tweeter make that possible. Great driver selection. I'm happy to see some use of SB Acoustics and Seas in this project. Thank you sir!
@@Conscious-7-7-7 Similar, but not the same. The woofers are a different line from the same manufacturer, but I'm not sure what tweeter the Buchardts use. I believe it's the same passive radiator though, also from SB acoustics.
Brilliant video. I especially enjoyed the slowed down step by step parts. Some of us have zero woodworking skills and that helps a lot! Thank you for all this good work.
Or maybe the same design but with the tweeter from SBAcoustics as well to keep it all at home. Maybe the SB26ADC-C000-4 that is in the same price as the Seas and sound really well
Great to see you in action. In other vids I saw only your hands, but this one has the human factor well recorded. Surprising bass sound. I've always liked the way KEF use their ABR designs. They open out the sound without the over-excursions that some vented cabinets suffer from. I did wonder if some of the tweeter/waveguide section could have been speeded up to hold viewer interest and attention. Other than that I really enjoyed the vid.
Superb construction documentary It would have been great and educational to see the process you used for measuring the drivers and calculating the cross over values and the reasoning behind it Maybe a part two Again great video
The passive radiator makes a huge difference in the home theater audio deep bass in all it gives very good result ..such that I have restart the audio test …the listening was done three my AirPod pro 2 and iPad Pro…. Thanks a lot 😊
Your most beautiful pair since the Dynamites! As you quite often use 3D printed parts to make your life easier, let me suggest doing this for the waveguide and tweeter as well - just a round piece with a "step", the smaller diameter being the one of the tweeter and the other being the one of the waveguide, then you could just place them perfectly very fast; drilling the holes, securing them, done :) if I ever build a 2nd pair of yours, it would be this for sure!
@@Dev_Everything I think you misunderstood what I was trying to say, so let me elaborate (which is hard without images, haha). Imagine that if you cut it open, it looks like an L The part would only be used to align the pieces, nothing else. Basically it's a ring that "clips" to the waveguide from behind, not sure how you call the area, the part that gets drilled later. And that printed part should have a 2nd "step", which has the outer diameter of the tweeter, so you place that one inside and and have a virtually ideal alignment as all parts should already be centered. I'm sure it's not perfect, but I'd bet it's at least as precise as doing it by hand - just way more convenient :)
Thanks. Yeah a 3D printed jig would've been handy, but I always try to do without 3D printed parts as a necessity since not everyone has access to a 3D printer, unless the entire project is built around 3D printing. But I like the way you think.
@@SoundBlab I've been looking for a project that uses the best of both worlds for a while. Don't think of it as a woodworking project that requires a 3D printer - think of it as a 3D printer project that uses wood 😜
Beautiful work! So you used: 1.Varathane wood filler (brushed on??) 2. Rust-Oleum auto filler 3. Rust-Oleum chalk paint 4. What clear coat did you use? Thanks so much 🙏
finally been waiting for u to use some SB Acoustics stuff, they have pretty decent budget and high-end line up, love to see more of SB acoustics stuff, because here the only viable option for decent driver actually SB Acoustics stuff
Have you thought about getting a CNC tool to cut out the speaker/baffles openings in your panels? I think it would do a great job on the racetrack shaped speakers/baffles.
I do have a CNC machine, but it has been giving me problems and it has become easier just to do it manually. Also, most people do not have access to a CNC, so I always try to do things in a more accessible way.
I’ve been watching your videos 4 awhile now. Needless to say, excellent work. But more importantly, you have instilled a desire in me to follow in your footsteps. It would b just to damn much fun to create such things.
@@thomasschafer7268 Yes, Mads from Buchardt is quite open that they use daily inexpensive, but custom and well-selected parts from SB Acoustics, except the high-end Purify speakers $$$.
This is what I do. Then I run some more dowel front to back and tie them together where they intersect with zip ties. The ties actually hold the panels in place firmly under tension.
I think you could use the 3D printer to create templates for cutting the oval shape openings and flange pockets. Also by measuring the tweeter hole pattern and the diameter of the waveguide center hole you can create a perfect fit drill guide (basically a circular sheet with the same hole pattern and a shallow cylinder in the center to align it with the waveguide). Maybe not worth it for a one off (or 2 in this case) but my OCD would not let me eyeball it :)
If you want to make your life easier, you could use a soldering iron to install some threaded brass inserts into the holes you added into the wave guide, that way you don't need to use nuts to secure the screws.
SEAS speakers always punch well above their "weight" class. I enjoy your content but in this episode I saw and heard a few things that I may, humbly, like to send notes from my life of home/car audio sales/instalation/fabrication and years of construction ending in a full blown contractor before becoming disabled. (I did not want you to think I'm just yappin from the cheap seats) .. now .. a little spray adhesive on the sides of the little fluff you put over the crossover will stop it from dancing with the bass up the wall.. big fan of super 77 for most any application of spray.. more .. a mix of water and just elmers glue 50/50 makes an excellent sanding sealer and helps big time with the "end" grain of the mdf sides. Just some thin coats and it sands great when dry .. more .. the binding post. I shed a little tear when you put steel binding post in that fantastic built and designed speaker. Ferious anything affects and effects the signal and ultimately the sound. I did not believe it untill a friend of mine quite a few years back replaced his home speaker binding post with copper "tube connectors".. back then very esoteric but today readily available. Those that know the difference between listening and hearing music can hear it with little effort and lastly a note from my construction side.. your air powered brad nailer. That looks like a Bostich 18 ga toi me. Should be easily rebuildable or taken to a service center. Nine times out of ten its a simple oring. And penumatic tools beat battery tools every day of the week. I have DeWalt 16/18 ga brad battery nailers, Passload/Hitachi battery spark butaine power framing and brad nailers and a large mix of the air types. In the cold and heat the battery ones suffer. They have a limit as to the depth of drive especially half power and down. Stick with the air. You will appreciate it. Subscriber for a long time and usually keep my "internet" oppinion to myself but today was in share mode. I hope I did not overstep and know I am not being a Karen of any kind. I say all this with humility. Your the one doing the work I'm just watching. God Bless and keep up the content.
Thanks man, appreciate the comments. The binding posts are brass with a nickel plating, no steel. My brad nailer is new, so not sure it already needs a rebuild, but even one I had before was not great either, thats why I got a new one. But in the meantime I got a battery brad nailer, and I am much happier so far.
JamesHobbs1460: What concept in physics would you accrue to this supposed difference in “sound quality” WRT the materials for your connectors? Also, could you fill me in to how you performed your ABX or, at least, double blind test that led you to believe that the sound was different? Finally, how was it different? FR, distortion?
I have not performed any AB testing on connectors. I have never really been able to hear a difference to be honest. I think that these small differences are generally only audible in very very high end resolving systems in properly treated listening rooms. However, when it comes to steel connectors it is fact that copper and brass for example does have better conductivity rating than steel, so from that perspective alone it makes sense to use whatever has the better performance. That's really all I'm going by, but it's not a big deal to me. As long as I enjoy the music, I am happy.
@@Obsfucation Well.. I've got years and years installing, selling and testing audio gear. Home and Car. I've been a IASCA and USAC judge for SQ many a time. I am always the resident person to build or tune a system home or car. And its simple to understand if you put anything that can magnitize in a signinal path it will affect the SQ if introduced before the speaker. Knowing how to hear and listen is a skill. It's not something that can be talked about or discussed in a typing messaging form. It has to be shared.. expressed.. shown.. "He who would learn to fly one day must first learn to stand and walk and run and climb and dance; one cannot fly into flying."
@@SoundBlab Excellent.. If you had similar issues with the other nailer i'd say its your compressor, pressure setting or hose diameter. Enjoy your content sir.
nice Stands! nice Video! professional measurement setup! I allready Have the same passive radiators and some morel tweeters and tangband broadband speakers and will once start a similar project :-). Do you have a video how your stands look from the side? Really nice!
Thanks. I'm supposed to have build plans for the stands but never got around to it. Watch the video here: ua-cam.com/video/cZfrWtYFXo4/v-deo.html. They are easy to build though.
nice sound.Thank you for the wonderful video. It has become very useful for my speaker work. Until now, I had only made bassless models, but after seeing this, I decided to try using a passive radiator.I'm thinking of using a passive registrar for an 8cm full-range speaker, but what size would be best?
Cool build! I liked the waveguide, and have had my eyes on those. Demonstrating the finished build, from the sound samples, these sound nice, larger than their size suggests and bass was quite good. Will you have grilles also or no?
12:34 в подобных случаях я использую прозрачный бес кислотный силиконовый герметик, не нужно после прикручивания болтами - шурупами снимать устройство с волновода, герметичность на высоком уровне.
Hey SoundBlab, I love your builds, but i've always wondered, after extensive research i have yet to find an answer to my question about passive radiators, in this case i got 1 active and 2 passive radiators, is there an acoustical advantage to putting the PR's in the rear or is it better to have one on each side of the enclosure. i still have not found one who could give me an answer to it. i would understand with the single PR that it is better in the rear cause of vibrations.
With 2 PRs it is probably best to go one each side to achieve force cancellation and thus damping enclosure resonances. PRs on the rear can make speaker placement more difficult in a room, since you probably don't want them too close to a wall. The placement otherwise has no effect on the frequency response other than what room placement and the room itself will introduce. It is similar to a port, front or back makes no difference, but the same advantages and drawbacks counts as does for PRs. PRs also work well when you have both on the same side of the enclosure. This way you have more freedom to swop speakers around to have the PRs facing either inside or outside depending on what works best in your room. It's probably more flexible than rear mounted. I am currently working on a 3-way floor stander with 2 PRs on the back, but as said before, it is similar to a port on the back.
It sounds awesome, thank you so much for playing regular music--instead of those "safe" audiophile music. Can I commission you to build this speaker for me and send it across to Singapore?
Thanks. The crossover is custom designed, so consist of various parts put together for this particular speaker design. It is not off-the-shelf standard crossover. Details are in my build plans that can be purchased on my website here: soundblab.net
Just curious, would you consider trying to build these with a double radiator setup with two woofers? Just to get some more low frequency response from the speakers? Or do you think that would be useless? It is something I am considering building. I have no experience with using passive radiator though.
Hello. I'm looking at doing a similar thing with the SB Acoustic 5" coax. It's for my camper where space is tight in the back area. I'll have a sub in there but i still need kick bass from the 5" and thought about using passive radiators to allow for a smaller enclosure. SB Acoustic do a radiator to use with the coax, it's the same size. I don't know whether to use this or the race track. I read that the radiator should have larger area than the driver. I could use two 5" radiators i suppose, even two racetracks on the sides but it's all guess work at this point. How do you select parts or calculate enclosure size or port size?
Great video! I just purchased the plans. Is it okay to use 400v Capacitors for the two 250v ones? For the air core inductors, can I use 18awg for both, or is 20awg used for a reason on the .8mH coil? Ordering parts.
I have been ordering parts through the links in your parts list document! I hope to start the speaker build when weather starts to cool down a bit since I do the work in a garage without an A/C, ugh! In the meantime, I think I will assemble the crossover parts.
Beautiful but Why you didn't go witht the SB29RDNC tweeter for lower FS and better integration with mid freq also having a ring radiator reduces the cone breakup
I watched a lot of your compact speaker builds and it left me wondering, is a simple baffle usually enough or is it better to have a double baffle or bracing? most topics of double baffle i encountered were for subs. I’m at the point of building my first full range speaker and I don’t know if I should double the front, my material is 19mm MDF. Thanks in advance
What diameter did you cut the inside circles for the PR? I've bought some of these and I'm thrown by the supplied gasket foam on sonething that seems proud of the flange itself. I wasn't going to flush mount the outer flange but its not clear from the data sheet what the geometry is behind the foam on the back. Also to anyone reading: don't but the SB supplied 50g weights for use with these - they don't fit. Unless tou put them at the end of a very long bolt, and have lots of turning moment acting on the spider and surround. Better to just get short bolts and some washers, I got mine in a DIY store - cheaper too..
Hi, i have a set of creative labs T100 speakers and to my ears they sound really nice, fast puncy and surprising amount of bass that hits harder than speakers 6 times the size. Only thing it lacks is clarity. Could they be reproduced in HiFi? Really impossible wtf physics breaking lows, im guess they are T line but seem way too small and light for that.
I doubt if they are t-lines, most like ly they are ported enclosures with a single full range driver, which perhaps explains the overall lack of 'clarity'.
I just startet this great project and have troubles to buy the DPR10-8.0 8 Ohm 10 Watt Precision 1% Audio Grade Resistor in Europe. Do you think I can use an 8.2 Ohm resistor made by Jantzen with the same specs (10W , 1%acc) Thanks 🙏
I can't really answer that, because I have no experience selling speakers, but I do know that it took me many many years to learn how to properly design and build speakers, and I am still learning. If you are only getting into the hobby, I would consider that you spend some time to learn all you can before committing to such a venture.
This is a problem... I try to be efficient in using various combinations of drivers, so often I end up with empty enclosures since I use the same drivers in different combinations across various projects. I have sold a few locally so far, but the market here in South Africa is too small to really be a viable option for this route.
I still can’t believe the low end I’m hearing over my headphones. I’m not usually a fan of listening to recordings of speakers, but this recording sounds amazing! I feel like there is little room echo. What microphone did you use to record these great-sounding speakers?
Thanks. I used a Zoom H1 mounted to a tripod. Nothing complicated. Sometimes I will use two Behringer mics pointed at both speakers directly on axis, but its too much setup, so I am now only using the Zoom H1.
Looking good! One question, not to bash just for my information. Did you adjust something on the pr, to change the tuning? I have a floorstander in the works for a friend of mine with this waveguide combined with the vifa xt25tg-30 and dual 16pfcr. Tweeter combi borrowed from Heissmann acoustics, maybe you're familiar with his work. Keep up the good work :)
Thanks. There was no need to add weight to the PR, it performs optimally as is. It can be extended slightly with about 10 to 20grams, but opted to keep it simple.
A 2nd order network on the tweeter at 1.5khz with a 3/4 in dome?! Excellent design work. The waveguide with a wide surround tweeter make that possible. Great driver selection. I'm happy to see some use of SB Acoustics and Seas in this project. Thank you sir!
Thanks man
it's the Buchardt S400 MKII design
@@Conscious-7-7-7 Similar, but not the same. The woofers are a different line from the same manufacturer, but I'm not sure what tweeter the Buchardts use. I believe it's the same passive radiator though, also from SB acoustics.
Brilliant video. I especially enjoyed the slowed down step by step parts. Some of us have zero woodworking skills and that helps a lot! Thank you for all this good work.
Thanks 👍
Soundblab: We have Buchardt at Home
😂
Do you have a speaker recipe with the original purifi s 6.5x08 ?
👍🏻
It could be fun to do a comparison
Or maybe the same design but with the tweeter from SBAcoustics as well to keep it all at home. Maybe the SB26ADC-C000-4 that is in the same price as the Seas and sound really well
That paint job is exceptional! They turned out awesome
Thanks man. It took a lot of time and effort. Finishing can be half the job sometimes!
SoundBlab always does something special.
Great to see you in action. In other vids I saw only your hands, but this one has the human factor well recorded. Surprising bass sound. I've always liked the way KEF use their ABR designs. They open out the sound without the over-excursions that some vented cabinets suffer from. I did wonder if some of the tweeter/waveguide section could have been speeded up to hold viewer interest and attention. Other than that I really enjoyed the vid.
Thanks
One of the best speakers you made... Maybe the best ;). Thanks for the video.
Wow, thanks!
Superb construction documentary
It would have been great and educational to see the process you used for measuring the drivers and calculating the cross over values and the reasoning behind it
Maybe a part two
Again great video
Thanks
Watching these will calm my mind ❤
Wow those sound amazing!
The passive radiator makes a huge difference in the home theater audio deep bass in all it gives very good result ..such that I have restart the audio test …the listening was done three my AirPod pro 2 and iPad Pro…. Thanks a lot 😊
Your most beautiful pair since the Dynamites!
As you quite often use 3D printed parts to make your life easier, let me suggest doing this for the waveguide and tweeter as well - just a round piece with a "step", the smaller diameter being the one of the tweeter and the other being the one of the waveguide, then you could just place them perfectly very fast; drilling the holes, securing them, done :)
if I ever build a 2nd pair of yours, it would be this for sure!
Its very important that the waveguides be symmetrical. A 3d printer wont print as smooth and even as injection molded plastic.
@@Dev_Everything I think you misunderstood what I was trying to say, so let me elaborate (which is hard without images, haha). Imagine that if you cut it open, it looks like an L
The part would only be used to align the pieces, nothing else. Basically it's a ring that "clips" to the waveguide from behind, not sure how you call the area, the part that gets drilled later. And that printed part should have a 2nd "step", which has the outer diameter of the tweeter, so you place that one inside and and have a virtually ideal alignment as all parts should already be centered. I'm sure it's not perfect, but I'd bet it's at least as precise as doing it by hand - just way more convenient :)
@@Dev_Everythingthey are trying to say it would just be used as a jig to align it
Thanks. Yeah a 3D printed jig would've been handy, but I always try to do without 3D printed parts as a necessity since not everyone has access to a 3D printer, unless the entire project is built around 3D printing. But I like the way you think.
@@SoundBlab I've been looking for a project that uses the best of both worlds for a while. Don't think of it as a woodworking project that requires a 3D printer - think of it as a 3D printer project that uses wood 😜
Great seeing your face and not only your hands (for a change).
Keep the greatly educational videos coming.
Thanks, will do!
Beautiful work!
So you used:
1.Varathane wood filler (brushed on??)
2. Rust-Oleum auto filler
3. Rust-Oleum chalk paint
4. What clear coat did you use?
Thanks so much 🙏
Yes the sanding sealer is brushed on, two coats, sand in between with 320 grit. Clear coat is Rust-Oleum chalked matte clear.
finally been waiting for u to use some SB Acoustics stuff, they have pretty decent budget and high-end line up, love to see more of SB acoustics stuff, because here the only viable option for decent driver actually SB Acoustics stuff
Great Job Again. Look like Buchardt clones at a fraction of the price. Good Stuff!!!
The Buchardt P300 is around EUR 1400.-- per pair.
Have you thought about getting a CNC tool to cut out the speaker/baffles openings in your panels?
I think it would do a great job on the racetrack shaped speakers/baffles.
I do have a CNC machine, but it has been giving me problems and it has become easier just to do it manually. Also, most people do not have access to a CNC, so I always try to do things in a more accessible way.
I’ve been watching your videos 4 awhile now. Needless to say, excellent work. But more importantly, you have instilled a desire in me to follow in your footsteps. It would b just to damn much fun to create such things.
Glad to hear you have been inspired!
Great work! Seems to be inspired by Buchardt audio. They too use SB Acoustics drivers, but I think a higher price category on the woofer side.
Cool, thanks!
Sorry. They use the 17 Version paper for 70€ and the 19mm tweeter for 40€.😅😅
@@thomasschafer7268 Yes, Mads from Buchardt is quite open that they use daily inexpensive, but custom and well-selected parts from SB Acoustics, except the high-end Purify speakers $$$.
5:30 Here it is enough to use 3 dowels and not to waste wood.
There is a lot of material inside, passive speakers will have little or no range.
This is what I do. Then I run some more dowel front to back and tie them together where they intersect with zip ties. The ties actually hold the panels in place firmly under tension.
That's another speaker build, but after a long time 😀..
Love the finish and offcourse the sound..
Thanks!
Very Buchardt S400! I'd know, I have a pair standing right here :)
Me too. I love these things.
Congratz with a super result!
Thank you!
I think you could use the 3D printer to create templates for cutting the oval shape openings and flange pockets. Also by measuring the tweeter hole pattern and the diameter of the waveguide center hole you can create a perfect fit drill guide (basically a circular sheet with the same hole pattern and a shallow cylinder in the center to align it with the waveguide). Maybe not worth it for a one off (or 2 in this case) but my OCD would not let me eyeball it :)
excellent video. You are one of the best content creator's around. The explanation was detailed.
Thanks!
very good job , great color and beautiful speaker.
Thanks!
Slight cold? Unacceptable...hope you feel better. Great build.
Thanks 👍
love the colour , nice job ...........
now make some kef blades .............ha ha
Thanks. That'll be a challenge!
Bonjour de la France......... très très beau travail
merci
Brilliant move on the PR
Thanks
If you want to make your life easier, you could use a soldering iron to install some threaded brass inserts into the holes you added into the wave guide, that way you don't need to use nuts to secure the screws.
Thats a good idea!
Excelente trabajo! Ese color me encanta!!!
Thanks
Great work!!!. I have enjoyed the video very much. Greatings from Argentina!
Thank you very much!
SEAS speakers always punch well above their "weight" class. I enjoy your content but in this episode I saw and heard a few things that I may, humbly, like to send notes from my life of home/car audio sales/instalation/fabrication and years of construction ending in a full blown contractor before becoming disabled. (I did not want you to think I'm just yappin from the cheap seats) .. now .. a little spray adhesive on the sides of the little fluff you put over the crossover will stop it from dancing with the bass up the wall.. big fan of super 77 for most any application of spray.. more .. a mix of water and just elmers glue 50/50 makes an excellent sanding sealer and helps big time with the "end" grain of the mdf sides. Just some thin coats and it sands great when dry .. more .. the binding post. I shed a little tear when you put steel binding post in that fantastic built and designed speaker. Ferious anything affects and effects the signal and ultimately the sound. I did not believe it untill a friend of mine quite a few years back replaced his home speaker binding post with copper "tube connectors".. back then very esoteric but today readily available. Those that know the difference between listening and hearing music can hear it with little effort and lastly a note from my construction side.. your air powered brad nailer. That looks like a Bostich 18 ga toi me. Should be easily rebuildable or taken to a service center. Nine times out of ten its a simple oring. And penumatic tools beat battery tools every day of the week. I have DeWalt 16/18 ga brad battery nailers, Passload/Hitachi battery spark butaine power framing and brad nailers and a large mix of the air types. In the cold and heat the battery ones suffer. They have a limit as to the depth of drive especially half power and down. Stick with the air. You will appreciate it. Subscriber for a long time and usually keep my "internet" oppinion to myself but today was in share mode. I hope I did not overstep and know I am not being a Karen of any kind. I say all this with humility. Your the one doing the work I'm just watching. God Bless and keep up the content.
Thanks man, appreciate the comments. The binding posts are brass with a nickel plating, no steel. My brad nailer is new, so not sure it already needs a rebuild, but even one I had before was not great either, thats why I got a new one. But in the meantime I got a battery brad nailer, and I am much happier so far.
JamesHobbs1460: What concept in physics would you accrue to this supposed difference in “sound quality” WRT the materials for your connectors? Also, could you fill me in to how you performed your ABX or, at least, double blind test that led you to believe that the sound was different? Finally, how was it different? FR, distortion?
I have not performed any AB testing on connectors. I have never really been able to hear a difference to be honest. I think that these small differences are generally only audible in very very high end resolving systems in properly treated listening rooms. However, when it comes to steel connectors it is fact that copper and brass for example does have better conductivity rating than steel, so from that perspective alone it makes sense to use whatever has the better performance. That's really all I'm going by, but it's not a big deal to me. As long as I enjoy the music, I am happy.
@@Obsfucation Well.. I've got years and years installing, selling and testing audio gear. Home and Car. I've been a IASCA and USAC judge for SQ many a time. I am always the resident person to build or tune a system home or car. And its simple to understand if you put anything that can magnitize in a signinal path it will affect the SQ if introduced before the speaker. Knowing how to hear and listen is a skill. It's not something that can be talked about or discussed in a typing messaging form. It has to be shared.. expressed.. shown.. "He who would learn to fly one day must first learn to stand and walk and run and climb and dance; one cannot fly into flying."
@@SoundBlab Excellent.. If you had similar issues with the other nailer i'd say its your compressor, pressure setting or hose diameter. Enjoy your content sir.
Inspirational work🎉
Thanks a lot 😊
You sir do excellent work!
Thank you! Cheers!
Beautiful speakers!
Thanks
Congrats, very nice build!
Thanks!
Krásne 👌👌👌😎😎😎
Thanks
Bro, your project always make me spechless. Good job!
Thank you so much 😀
@@SoundBlab don't you plan to give your DIY speakers to your subscribers? 🥺😅
Interesting would be a 3d print waveguide for the cheap but super sounding SB
acoustics 19mm tweeter. Same build in the S400.
This video was so great. I had so much fun. Amazing❤🔥🔥🔥
Glad you enjoyed it!
makes your life so much easier when you have ALL the right equipment.
Excellent build!
Thanks!
Thanks, very handsome, great build!
Thanks man!
nice Stands! nice Video! professional measurement setup! I allready Have the same passive radiators and some morel tweeters and tangband broadband speakers and will once start a similar project :-). Do you have a video how your stands look from the side? Really nice!
Thanks. I'm supposed to have build plans for the stands but never got around to it. Watch the video here: ua-cam.com/video/cZfrWtYFXo4/v-deo.html. They are easy to build though.
Great build! I thought I have to get Buchardt S400MKII, but now I'm not sure. Maybe there's a way to compare them?
nice sound.Thank you for the wonderful video. It has become very useful for my speaker work. Until now, I had only made bassless models, but after seeing this, I decided to try using a passive radiator.I'm thinking of using a passive registrar for an 8cm full-range speaker, but what size would be best?
Thanks! Typically you should aim for a 10 inch PR with the 8 inch woofer, and of which the Xmax is higher than that of the woofer.
Very good sound, Congratz...
Thanks!
Very nice work!
Thanks
Nice work
Thanks
Would be great to see Marten Parker Duo clone, great job!!!
Nice work! Any chance for an open baffle design in the future?
Thanks. Definitely sometime in the future, maybe next year..., but I don't have a design thought out at the moment.
Where the bevel does make a difference, is the front bafle. More specifically behind the woofer. Came out great though.
Agreed. Thanks!
@@SoundBlab Really like the style and color combo, plus the paint looks oem quality from the video.
At long last the build video!
Nice Build, my next Projekt
Thanks. yeah go for it!
Hallo Udo, hast du den Lautsprecher schon gebaut? Kommst du aus Deutschland und kann man ihn eventuell bei dir Probehören?
Cool build! I liked the waveguide, and have had my eyes on those. Demonstrating the finished build, from the sound samples, these sound nice, larger than their size suggests and bass was quite good. Will you have grilles also or no?
Thanks! Don’t have plans for grills and the baffle is rather narrow compared to the woofer.
Lets say, heavily inspired by Buchardt. Nicely done.
12:34 в подобных случаях я использую прозрачный бес кислотный силиконовый герметик, не нужно после прикручивания болтами - шурупами снимать устройство с волновода, герметичность на высоком уровне.
That is a great idea. I will remember it for future. Thanks.
Nice work once again. Cheaper Buchardts is good.
Thanks
Super sir 🎉❤ India
Awesome project! I would like to built one pair for my self, but there is no way to find those drivers in my country.
Thanks! Yeah same here, I have to import almost everything. Where are you based?
Hey SoundBlab, I love your builds, but i've always wondered, after extensive research i have yet to find an answer to my question about passive radiators, in this case i got 1 active and 2 passive radiators, is there an acoustical advantage to putting the PR's in the rear or is it better to have one on each side of the enclosure. i still have not found one who could give me an answer to it. i would understand with the single PR that it is better in the rear cause of vibrations.
With 2 PRs it is probably best to go one each side to achieve force cancellation and thus damping enclosure resonances. PRs on the rear can make speaker placement more difficult in a room, since you probably don't want them too close to a wall. The placement otherwise has no effect on the frequency response other than what room placement and the room itself will introduce. It is similar to a port, front or back makes no difference, but the same advantages and drawbacks counts as does for PRs. PRs also work well when you have both on the same side of the enclosure. This way you have more freedom to swop speakers around to have the PRs facing either inside or outside depending on what works best in your room. It's probably more flexible than rear mounted.
I am currently working on a 3-way floor stander with 2 PRs on the back, but as said before, it is similar to a port on the back.
@@SoundBlab Thank you so much for the very detailed response, that really answered my question about the placement of them. keep up the great builds
It sounds awesome, thank you so much for playing regular music--instead of those "safe" audiophile music. Can I commission you to build this speaker for me and send it across to Singapore?
Cool thanks! I wish I could, I still have a day job as well so my time is very limited. But perhaps I can do this full time sometime in the future.
Did the speaker demo at the end have a the subwoofer on as well, or was that bass all from the pair of speakers? It sounds amazing
No subwoofer, only the speakers. Thanks!
It's great
Thanks
such presence.
Hello!
Good job!
Please, can you tell us what kind of Crossover did you use? And the Shop? Thank you!
Thanks. The crossover is custom designed, so consist of various parts put together for this particular speaker design. It is not off-the-shelf standard crossover. Details are in my build plans that can be purchased on my website here: soundblab.net
Just curious, would you consider trying to build these with a double radiator setup with two woofers? Just to get some more low frequency response from the speakers? Or do you think that would be useless? It is something I am considering building. I have no experience with using passive radiator though.
Hello. I'm looking at doing a similar thing with the SB Acoustic 5" coax. It's for my camper where space is tight in the back area. I'll have a sub in there but i still need kick bass from the 5" and thought about using passive radiators to allow for a smaller enclosure. SB Acoustic do a radiator to use with the coax, it's the same size. I don't know whether to use this or the race track. I read that the radiator should have larger area than the driver. I could use two 5" radiators i suppose, even two racetracks on the sides but it's all guess work at this point. How do you select parts or calculate enclosure size or port size?
Great video! I just purchased the plans. Is it okay to use 400v Capacitors for the two 250v ones? For the air core inductors, can I use 18awg for both, or is 20awg used for a reason on the .8mH coil? Ordering parts.
Thanks man! You can use 400v caps and the 18awg coils will be fine.
I have been ordering parts through the links in your parts list document! I hope to start the speaker build when weather starts to cool down a bit since I do the work in a garage without an A/C, ugh! In the meantime, I think I will assemble the crossover parts.
I almost have all the parts at this point. Waiting for cooler weather to get started. Can’t wait!
5:12 Agree 100%.
Cant fault them and a nice colour as well .
Thanks
Where did u buy the bass driver, tweeter and waveguide?
Beautiful but Why you didn't go witht the SB29RDNC tweeter for lower FS and better integration with mid freq also having a ring radiator reduces the cone breakup
I don’t think it fits the waveguide.
Living in Cape Town a year now - would love to meet up! Regards
Hey all, I do have a question regarding the passive radiator. Can it handle two of the sb chassis or will it cause too much excursion?
Off the cuff, I would say no. But I have not modelled it to confirm. However form this model I would suggest it is not possible without compromise.
I watched a lot of your compact speaker builds and it left me wondering, is a simple baffle usually enough or is it better to have a double baffle or bracing? most topics of double baffle i encountered were for subs. I’m at the point of building my first full range speaker and I don’t know if I should double the front, my material is 19mm MDF.
Thanks in advance
I think for up to a 6.5 inch woofer, 19mm is fine.
The upper midrange is forward, you can hear that through earphones.
Good job.
Why not Monacor WG-300 ?
I think so that better and more universal when you choose tvi.
I wanted to use this specific SEAS tweeter. The WG-300 does not fit it.
What diameter did you cut the inside circles for the PR? I've bought some of these and I'm thrown by the supplied gasket foam on sonething that seems proud of the flange itself. I wasn't going to flush mount the outer flange but its not clear from the data sheet what the geometry is behind the foam on the back.
Also to anyone reading: don't but the SB supplied 50g weights for use with these - they don't fit. Unless tou put them at the end of a very long bolt, and have lots of turning moment acting on the spider and surround. Better to just get short bolts and some washers, I got mine in a DIY store - cheaper too..
122mm
@@SoundBlab Thank you!
what are the stands you are using ?
I built them. It is a project on this channel.
Hi, i have a set of creative labs T100 speakers and to my ears they sound really nice, fast puncy and surprising amount of bass that hits harder than speakers 6 times the size. Only thing it lacks is clarity. Could they be reproduced in HiFi? Really impossible wtf physics breaking lows, im guess they are T line but seem way too small and light for that.
I doubt if they are t-lines, most like ly they are ported enclosures with a single full range driver, which perhaps explains the overall lack of 'clarity'.
I just startet this great project and have troubles to buy the DPR10-8.0 8 Ohm 10 Watt Precision 1% Audio Grade Resistor in Europe.
Do you think I can use an 8.2 Ohm resistor made by Jantzen with the same specs (10W , 1%acc)
Thanks 🙏
Yes, that will be fine.
Serious question. I'm just getting into the hobby and I want to build many speakers... but what if people don't want to buy them... what do you do ?
I can't really answer that, because I have no experience selling speakers, but I do know that it took me many many years to learn how to properly design and build speakers, and I am still learning. If you are only getting into the hobby, I would consider that you spend some time to learn all you can before committing to such a venture.
@SoundBlab I guess that my question also lies in, what do you do once you have too many speakers ?
This is a problem... I try to be efficient in using various combinations of drivers, so often I end up with empty enclosures since I use the same drivers in different combinations across various projects. I have sold a few locally so far, but the market here in South Africa is too small to really be a viable option for this route.
Where did you get so long banana terminals?
There are links in the description to these binding posts.
Is that pair for sale?
BUILD PLANS for these are available on my website at this link: shorturl.at/blor1
Do you know what your in-room bass response it?
I estimate around mid 30's.
Amphion may have something to say about that design.
Yeah, Buchardt Audio too
What is the track at 33:43?
2:00 i would make a3d print jig and route the hole
Nice work. Are these for sale?
Thanks! Sorry not for sale.
a módosított Maestro 2.0-ás PC hangfalak és a Sony fejhallgató igazán szép tiszta hangokat adott vissza.
What are you using to power the speakers? Just curious.
IOTAVX SA3
I still can’t believe the low end I’m hearing over my headphones. I’m not usually a fan of listening to recordings of speakers, but this recording sounds amazing! I feel like there is little room echo. What microphone did you use to record these great-sounding speakers?
Thanks. I used a Zoom H1 mounted to a tripod. Nothing complicated. Sometimes I will use two Behringer mics pointed at both speakers directly on axis, but its too much setup, so I am now only using the Zoom H1.
You said this "was" your fav speaker, which is your fav now? :)
how does it perform below 200hz? your graph is limited to 200
This is very typical as bass response below this threshold is very dependent on the room and setup.
Looking good! One question, not to bash just for my information. Did you adjust something on the pr, to change the tuning?
I have a floorstander in the works for a friend of mine with this waveguide combined with the vifa xt25tg-30 and dual 16pfcr. Tweeter combi borrowed from Heissmann acoustics, maybe you're familiar with his work.
Keep up the good work :)
Thanks. There was no need to add weight to the PR, it performs optimally as is. It can be extended slightly with about 10 to 20grams, but opted to keep it simple.
Inspired by Buchardt ?
What is the name of the paint color?
Rust-Oleum Chalked Spray Paint Coastal Blue