Not sure if someone has mentioned it, but as someone who has worked in a glass shop for around 5 years I've used A LOT of that weldon stuff. The best way to apply it is to actually put your parts together and then apply the weldon to the seam and let it wick in. You'll instantly see it starting to melt the acrylic together.
Wire strippers at 13'27" - A little tip for you. When you strip the end of the wire, leave the excess insulation ON and use that between your fingertips to twist the strands, THEN pull it off. That way you don't get finger grease all over the strands and it makes the solder joint more reliable. Great video btw!
Also, those type of wire strippers are pretty trash in my experience. Get some Jokari or if you have a lot of money to waste some Knipex or Wiha ones. The Jokari cost me €12 and were well worth it. Great Scott! recommends them as well.
Wow, not sure how I didn't know that trick. You learn something new every day. Thank you for that comment. Whether he learns from it or not, I just did.
My Dad taught me this when I was a nipper. It also makes it much easier and quicker to twist the strands as you can just roll the insulation between your fingers.
can we talk about how cool the post mortem aspect of these videos are? like no one else does that, and its really helpful to see how to improve something.
It's a good outlet for me because I always find 10 different ways I could've done a project better by actually building it. Designing is one thing, but going hands on makes things a lot more clear
@@ZacBuilds yeah i just finished my first project, and it had so many ups and downs so it was literally a roller coaster of happiness and sadness while making it lol.
Yes, I totally agree. I had stumbled upon a few Zac Builds videos, but was never compelled to subscribe. (No offense, I am more of the long-time Adafruit customer, "RIP Philips Hue & Govee" type than I am the "tear the guts out of a Philips Hue" type.) However, it was the Post Mortem aspect of the videos that finally earned my Subscription.
+1 for the post mortem! "Lessons Learned" is essential for everything from fabrication to car repair to gardening to IT because if you don't do that, you'll never be able to improve on future designs. This is a perfect example: Now you know you need to measure ... well, "everything" so that you don't have to cut away wood to make room for LED or crossover assemblies should you ever decide to do another speaker project. And I have an idea for another project. Make a set of speakers similar to the old "Magnaplanar" ones that don't need "box-shaped" enclosures, resulting in speakers about as thick as a framed painting. That would be truly space-saving, and I'm sure you could figure out a way to go completely bonkers with the LED rigging!
The C-Note MT kit has the cabinet panel dimensions laid out for you - figuring out the interior dimensions from the MDF plans is pretty trivial. The crossovers and ports are part of the kit too. I suspect the mismatch in resonances between the hardwood and the acrylic might actually help his sound out, but I'm not sure. I do wish his skyline diffuser was down at listening level where it's supposed to be though 19:02. That's not just decoration...
Seeing someone wearing PPE when it's probably not necessary is very relieving with so many makers not using it when it really should be used. Major kudos.
The reason the applicator looks like a needle is because you actually push the acrylic together and use the needle to apply the Weldon to the corners. Because it's so thin, the Weldon actually seeps into the corner and spreads itself out. You can look up people build aquarium tanks :)
Underrated comment. Just think of the soldiers' lives who could be saved if we made tanks out of acrylic. It's like permanent camo...and if they can travel under water, that's even better for those sneak attacks!
As an audiophile, you don't have to have the best quality. Sometimes it's about making yourself and your setup happy. Just because I wouldn't do doesn't mean you can't.
Too many people wast money on fancy hardware and psychological cables just to use their set up at 1/4 the power in a non treated room not even respecting speakers positionning requirements.
@@simonrano8072 Yep. The rest of us think "That sounds nice" and then just enjoy the music. While drinking the wine that we bought with the money we saved by using ordinary mains cable to connect our speakers. 😁
The cool thing about UA-cam instructional videos is that you can see and avoid all the mistakes made before giving it a go on your own. And if desk space is at a premium, make panel speakers and hang them on the wall.
Part of the problem imho with videos on speaker building on youtube is that they always show the build process. And never the design process or talking about why they do something. Actually building the box is usually the easy thing to do.
Thanks man, I appreciate you being with me long enough to see the change! It sometimes gets tough finding stuff to make I actually need/want, the house is starting to get pretty full 😂
Something you can do with acrylic to get it fogged/frosted is using an orbital sander with a medium high grit 180-200 and going over the surface of the acrylic. This is a diy approach and can be used if you accidentally nick one of the surfaces and don’t want to restart.
I absolutely love the dual purpose with the lighting as well. That thinner acrylic probably isn't the best for sound, but there are trade-offs in design. If you think they sound good, that is all that matters!
Awesome project and amazing results! I made an acrylic speaker a while back and I'm still working to get rid of the rattling, glad that wasn't a problem in this build!
I absolutely love when we make mistakes in making furniture or stuff like this, moments like this truly show how adaptable a person is, improvise, adapt, overcome🤣
I heard you talk about this on the podcast. It turned out really nice. I like how you integrate technology with woodworking. your channel seems to have a taste of DIY Perks with a strong focus on walnut instead of aluminium - which I like.
@@ZacBuilds stainless for me. Aluminum for the jobs that aren't terribly needing in aesthetics. Normal steel if I'm either on a budget or doing something indoors in a dry room. House fires just aren't my thing. I have maple floors and I regret it. 'can't trust a medium income set of renters to not damage it whenever I leave.
Those look very nice and seem to be a good design. A couple ideas: 1) you could have used heat to bend the acrylic into a squared-off-u-shape and eliminated the Weldon 2) although it would eliminate light from the top, you could have made the top wood (leaving the sides acrylic and eliminated any seams) and incorporated wireless charging pads in the top of each speaker.
18:27 "They are only 40 watts". The 'watts' don't say how loud a speaker can play. There are horn-systems out there that will provide rock-concert volume with only 20 watts or so. It's the level of efficiency that can give you a hint (a speaker with 85dB will get not the half as loud as a speaker with 95 dB when provided with the same input power). These Speakers actually turned out pretty nice. Much better than i've expected in the beginning. Well done.
I've noticed this. I had a Dali Spektor 1 and a Bill Fitzmaurice Omnitop 12 connected to the same system and I had to turn the perceived volume up 3 times as high to get the Dali to be as loud as the Omnitop 12. The Dali sounded nicer (at least without the EQ module) but small bookshelf speakers with 4" woofers will suck down power to make them loud compared to a 12" and 1" compression driver.
Hi Zac! I do appreciate the Idea behind the build, as well as the quality of the work. You do however have some technical issues of varying degree. First of all, you NEED some kind of dampening material in the cabinets, I realize that it might interfere with the lighting idea.. But there's pretty fluffy white poly filling that does the job just fine. The reason behind this is to absorb the back wave from the driver. Not doing this will result in pretty iffy resonance issues as it 'bounces' off the rear panel. Second, A baffle that thick with a small midrange driver should have the rear of the cutout rounded or chamfered on the back side to help the driver 'breathe'. This can otherwise impact the midrange response. Depending on driver and baffle thickness, this might be an issue. It's good practice to just do it and be safe. Third, Plexi as a material is fine actually.. Honestly most common materials are fine if it's structurally sound and thick enough, as long as it has proper bracing/support. These do not have proper support and are too thin though. So, you'll likely have resonance issues there as well. Your hardwood is fine, nothing wrong with it. Otherwise, great job on the build and keep doing things! If you for some reason decide to do more audio things, feel free to reach out.
The number of comments on this video stating he did it wrong are baffling yours is the first I've seen with genuine advice. I have seen speaker cabinets with void space and no dampening but this space's volume and surfaces are specially designed to act as wave guides for each individual driver. This from my limited knowledge seems very complex to design around but definitely does seem to improve sound quality based on the speakers I've seen that implement them.
@@jackmarshall2496 Thank you! I try to offer sound advice and constructive criticism. I was speaking about his design mostly. But in general.. you cannot get away from some kind of damping behind the a driver covering the midrange unless it's.. open baffle or sealed back drivers. There are other creative solutions with varying degrees of success. The main thing is that the rear wave needs to be addressed, how is less important. For speakers only covering bass, it's another story and not necessarily needed. :)
Those speakers look absolutely amazing. I have always loved the idea of people building their own speakers for that personal touch but this is a pair I haven't seen with lights be used like that. Very nice work.
Oh dear, this is an "audiophile's" torture! Even I feel mildly infuriated, but I really enjoyed the aesthetic! The last "I'd like to incorporate more things within the speaker", tho, was the final nail in the coffin, like a stab in my chest when i thought triggering was done 🤣 Keep up the good work!❤🔥
Pretty much this. I'm not an audiophile but if we're going to take the time to build speakers we may as well do it properly. I'm still not sure why he needs to save space on a giant, empty desk.
@@alphaforce6998 well, my guess is "clean-desk aesthetic", which i Also enjoy! That said, one can use newer speaker technologies such as hard shell and mechanical bass drivers to shrink their size! Introducing lighting and other AC and/or PWM power sources within a noise-sensitive piece of equipment is generally considered a bad practice
The video is all trolling. Not just audiophiles, but really it's designed to drive mildly negative engagement from a variety of domain enthusiasts (cabinet builders, expert makers, LED lighting fans, etc.) while pretending to be maker-ey / tinker-ey enough to elicit a warm fuzzy counter argument from people with less of a clue of how they've been manipulated by the fast talk method. Most people trying CA glue the first time on acrylic are in for a bad time when it frosts splotchy and ugly, when other adhesives work. "Oh look I forgot about the crossover!" is just as fake as any other reality TV bit. It just goes on and on with trolling. Even the initial premise is bs. People who value desk real estate put their monitors on adjustable mounts and speakers either wall mounted or on other elevated platforms, leaving the desk space clear for other uses. Heck the old school PC Hifi Logitech Z-560s had stands that pivoted into wall mounts 22 years ago and probably sound better.
It looks like the only desk space you save was from putting your lights inside the speakers. In fact, it almost looks like your new speakers have the same or slightly larger footprint as the speakers you replaced.
I love the space saving feature above all else in this build. Very clever, I have a similar setup with a custom made soundbar and these same Philips Hue lights and I wish we had this video a few months back, I probably would have tried integrating the lights for a big fat behind the screen defuse ambiance.
Original Parts-express kit describes MDF cabinets, not without serious reason: MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard, mostly wooden fibre) has not only desirable stiffness, but also has a proper internal self-damping, which is very different in acrylic material. So this project is rather a curious and funny thing, if not a waste of work, and maybe few dozens qubic inches between front and back panel less occupied space, so the title was just a clickbait. It's not really less space on a desk, plus IMHO surely worse acoustic ringing of the sides and top panel, especially without any internal damping material or some bracing. But then these boxes wouldn't look so unusual, and that's probably what the author wanted to stand out from the crowd, not necessarily the best possible sound from this P-ex kit. BTW: I'm not an audiophile, but a sound engineer who also made some DIY loudspeaker cabinets AND also mesurements of much more commercial loudspeakers and studio monitors (including accelerometer checking of sides of cabinets).
At first I thought based on the title that you were going to do DML type DIY speakers and wall mount them, but these are pretty cool too even if they don't exactly save any space :)
I wonder if everything will go as smooth if you just bend the acrylic with heat to avoid making them miters & using the weld-on stuff. It would definitely be seamless. But then you would need to round over to match the curves of the corner bend 🤔. I'm actually working on a portable boombox as well and ordered my BT large ammo speaker kit Friday from Parts Express. My version also includes frosted acrylic AND walnut. No bending though as I'm doing something different & do not require much
I just built a desktop organizer/soudbar with 2 4" drivers and 1 5" sub. It's 7" tall, 7" deep and runs the lenght of my desk to make the speaker volumes work. It looks gorgeous since it's made from walnut.
from what I recall weldon is basically a solvent that melts the plastic. it would have been easier to hold the joint together then put the adhesive in the joint. it then melts the plastic together. you cant use it in the way like you would other glues. thats why its so thin.
Those Irwin wire strippers are the bomb! I've been using them for a year or so and will never go back to stripping wires using the old-school wire strippers.
with that particular glue the pieces to be glued are first moved into the final position so when the glue is introduced to the joint it spreads evenly via capillary action
In this exciting episode, Zac sort of plans out something awesome without planning ahead somehow, again. I'm messing with you bro, beautiful work as always.
I like the idea of incorporating desk hogging components into the speakers. However, I feel like you would benefit greatly from lifting the speakers off of the desk with some stands. I have my speakers mounted on a hacked together combination of $30 computer screen stands and speaker wall mounting brackets. It works beautifully. I can move my speakers side to side and rotate them in and out on the fly. The biggest drawbacks are that height adjustment is a complicated process, there is no way to slide the speakers forwards and back, and the speakers don't like to stay perfectly level on this stand. I need to revise this idea to make it easier to move them around and make them perfectly level. But still, I'm very happy with this solution even with the small drawbacks. My speakers are just floating above my desk, not wasting space, and I didn't have to drill holes in the wall.
Same, I have my speakers lifted onto some monitor arms (The type with the clamp and the bar that goes straight up). Now they take up no desk space plus they're at ear level.
Yes, it's 100% something I'm working on. I need to set up the infrastructure to do it and that's the main road block, but I'm in talks with a web developer.
I like the idea but I noticed some aesthetics you maybe missed. I would have channeled the mid range driver a bit further to ad a cover plate over. (Which may be in your next video for a speaker grill.) I would chamfer the three edges on the front so more elegant styling would really make the build stand out. Maybe print a signature on the back and clear coat the front and back with matte clear finish.
I've designed and built easily 300 to 400 loudspeaker boxes in my time, I guess I therefore know something about them. These here look nice, what I'd call good conversation pieces, but that's about all. I seriously doubt they have anything near good audio characteristics. My main peeves are the materials. Never ever use hardwood for a box. Sure, hardwoods look cool, but best to leave them for your furniture. The best material I've so far found is low grade MDF that, thick enough (about 2 inches), will readily absorb the echoes in the box. Acrylic sheeting is also a very good material for boxes, I've seen it used on quite a few loudspeakers, but at least an inch thick, not the fraction of an inch used here. There is a problem with transparent sides though. With all the wiring and dampening material needed inside these boxes maybe you'd rather hide that mess instead of letting everyone see it. I've built boxes out of concrete and terracotta. My dream is to make some out of cast iron, I think that would be the ultimate loudspeaker box. You'd need a crane or at least a forklift truck to move them though.
i'm sure you know this by now but it is really wild how you did almost everything wrong so confidently. i am gonna be pretty critical in this post but it is only because you seemed to include so many pitfalls for other makers within such a well produced and attractive video that i want to save others from troubles that are much easier to fix upfront. if you wanted a hardwood look you should have veneered some mdf. as you noted early on solid hardwood is a very poor choice accoustically as well as due to its instability even when "sealed" and the misuse of capillary action glue on the acrylic was painful to watch as someone who used to build aquariums for a living lol. making the design 3 sets of parallel walls with zero sound dampening material is perhaps the worst decision from a sound quality standpoint. at the bare minimum the rear, bottom and front (with properly sized cutouts for the speakers) panels should have had batting applied. a silicone type caulking or properly sized foam gaskets should have been used between the wood and the acrylic as well as on any cutouts for speakers and amplifier and port to provide fully airtight seals. if you really wanted to improve on the internal resonances a trapezoid shape with the front panel slightly larger than the rear L-R would have drastically cut out reflections and if you could have also angled the front panel back a few degrees the sound quality would improve in ways that make these punch way above their cost. the last obviously wrong design choice was a large pad of foam to isolate it from the desk as it is proven that spreading the load out in this fashion couples your surfaces unless using very thick open cell foam when the goal is to decouple them. they do look great and i am sure are a huge improvement over the tinny and puny tv speakers. given that 4 months has gone by and you have received so many helpful critiques in that time it would be nice if you wrote and pinned a comment informing new viewers of what not to do as for a few dollars and minutes more you (and they) could have something intrinsically special and not special because you (they) made it. perhaps a new and improved version made into a new video which would only help your channel and it's viewers. recycling the drivers and electrical components into a new set of cabinets should be pretty simple and can add another facet to a video for those wishing to spruce up their sound and look with adding an integrated bluetooth amp to old pair of speaker's drivers and crossover that are hanging out in a cheap factory made cabinet they have as that cabinet is usually the weak point of budget speakers.
13:32 A nice example of so called "cold solder" where you have too little heat in the material and all the heat in the solder. This may work for a short while but it will typically crack in the long run and you'll have to resolder it again, hopefully right next time.
Looks good and nicely executed but I build spekers myself and know what a cabinet should or shouldnt do and there is absolutely no way that this is a good one. There might be no rattle but the acrylic is flexing and therefore essentially acting like a driver when it really should be as stiff as possible!
The two things that really stood out to me that you should consider in any future build is that when porting a speaker, you never want to run a straight port aimed directly at the back of a speaker. I don’t know if you actually calculated the port size and length that should be used in your build to get the best sound out of your drivers, but if you didn’t, you should. And after calculating, you should keep that number in mind when sticking a 90° elbow on the end of the port. So that the port wouldd stay within the best recommended size for your speaker, but no longer would you be running a straight port aimed directly at the back of your driver. The other thing that I saw that you should keep in mind for future builds is bracing. The reason people don’t use acrylic for their speaker builds very often is because it can flex easily with the speaker playing. You mitigate vibrations and flexing by bracing your cabinet. So it would have been helpful if you could have braced all that internal space with maybe somr acrylic arches, running front to back, left to right or vice versa. they’re cool speakers. Just a couple things to keep in mind next time when building a pair. Cheers.
Of all the issues that did exist with this project, a lack of stiffness is not among them. He did (apparently) neglect to use gasket material in the channels so air will seep through even if the channels are tight. Bracing is really only needed in high-power applications or where the cabinet is large such as with subwoofers. Thick acrylic sheets are actually very stiff. Here he is using a cheapo chinese 40w amp that is probably not going to reach its rated power anytime soon.
@@alphaforce6998 thanks for the insight. I wasn’t aware, or don’t pick up on, the amp size. That all makes sense. Yes, thick acrylic is stiff. Is it thick acrylic though? It appeared to be pretty thin acrylic To me. And I contend that it’s highly likely that that acrylic is relatively resonant. It’s no where near as effectively damped as if it had been just a normal speaker box the same size. And I also contend that you can’t exactly go wrong with more bracing. You may be right that the amp is just so mildly powered that it’s not going to push the driver to the point where resonance is an issue, but personally, I would rather go overkill on bracing and damping Than to just not even consider it within the design. There are speakers with much stiffer enclosures than this speaker with 3 acrylic sides that still brace their enclosures well. It may have taken away from the aesthetics of this build so it wasn’t worth sacrificing them at all for what the speakers are. You’re probably right there.
@@kilgoretrout4461 I've been building speakers for a while and have made some excellent-sounding original designs. I have also tried some ideas that I ultimately didn't like. My suggestion for anyone that wants this kind of speaker with clear side panels and LED lighting is to internally enclose the speaker drivers in a wooden cabinet, then on the outside you can put the acrylic panels and lighting. At least that way, the aesthetic elements will not hinder the sound quality. The lighting can be accomplished with an LED strip, and with the strip you have more options for placement. It can still be made to sync with that lighting system he was using. You are correct that acrylic does not offer much in the way of dampening so it will definitely amplify resonances inside the box, which will make certain sound frequency ranges sound "muddy" due to the interference.
funnily enough i scavenged speakers out of an old soundbar which had a absolutely drenched board. took this old 250watt PA system amp and ive been running the 50/60 watt 6 inch sub as a primary (hoping to find and scavange a second one with a ported box) with two small like 4 by 2 inch rectangle speakers which are about 25-30 watts each for this odd combination of deep low and decent highs. Very good work!
As a desktop speaker you may not get into this situation, but ideally you don’t want the sides of your speakers to vibrate. At louder volumes and at certain frequencies you my introduce distortion from the thin and low mass sides. An acrylic rod say 1” diameter could be glued in the center of the panels as side bracing to help mitigate this.
For future speakers, consider using a Dayton Audio KAB amplifier with DSP. You can eliminate the passive crossovers along with the associated downsides. Each driver will get its own tuned amplifier and you can order mounting and control hardware. To save desktop space in my own setup, I bought some ART RM5 studio monitors. They are especially thin powered speakers with VESA mounting holes. I removed the stands and attached monitor arms to each, so that they are completely off the desk and positioned perfectly to the sides of my monitor.
You might want to add air vents the unit to allow the heat from the LED's to dissipate. The life of you LED is be shorten quite significantly from the build of heat. Seems a lot of builders that include LED into their projects over the importance of air flow for LED's
That background music you play when you're in your apartment really reminds me of the music from Taz-Mania. Zero coaster use? You sure do like to live dangerously. And I'm curious if that's a Canadian-ism, calling it a crossover board, or if I've been using the wrong name. All my life I've called those perf boards. As for ideas about light diffusion, you could try some vellum glued to the acrylic panels, although you have to be careful about watermarks because that'll be highly visible in a scenario like this. Love the walnut.
I ordered the boards from an American site and they were listed as cross over boards 🤷♂️ I think if I want the diffusion to work as well as possible I need to get it closer to the source or the lights. The p95 by itself does diffuse light, just not enough to completely obscure the diodes
Here in Australia, soldered prototyping boards are generically called perf boards, as well. The best known brand for them used to be Veroboard Solderless wire jumper prototyping boards are known as breadboards, is that the same in Canada?
@@t4N9410oR Here in the US we call those chunky white boards used for prototyping bread boards. I'm not sure if they use the same name in Canada, maybe Zac will respond on that.
All solvent welding relies on introducing precise amounts of the solvent to parts already fitted together with sufficient gap to allow capillary action to draw the solvent through the join. Then after sufficient time for softening of the surface, mild pressure is applied to force them together and as the solvent fully evaporates over time you have a fully fused 'welded' joint.
Very nice build, I plan to build some as well but my goal will be to have the face at an angle (facing a little bit up) since I'll use them as monitor stand for side monitors
Funny note on using solid stock to make boxes. I've tried it myself. One box is square, the other has twisted. So if the bases are pushed together, one if facing straight forward, the other is a few degrees to the left. Stayed sealed, so meh whatever :-)
The reason the applicator is a needle is so that you bring you seams together than run the needle along that inside corner and liquid is so thin it permeates into joint.
This was one of, if not, the best build I have watched from you! Fantastic job! All of the tools you have at your disposal is honestly a jealousy point, but oh well, lol. Not too late to print a diffuser (half moon) in clear petg and add it I would think. Great job!
I built lights underneath my speaker stand (the platform where the speakers sit on) instead. Just some CCT COB led strips connected to hue with a gledopto controller. Does the job, different type of illumination though. Just a thought for people who don't want to make new speakers. Very cool idea though!
Zac absolutely beautiful design there. Can't wait to see more videos soon my friend. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Keep making. God bless.
Ref the wire strippers...when the strippers leave the stripped bit attached to the copper strand, use it to twist the copper strand and make a nice uniform and tidy twist. The insulation will pop off since the core reduces in diameter when twisted.
Interesting design. Although I am curious to what are the parameters that the speaker box is designed around, especially the Q values. I do not see any damping materials being added inside the speaker box, so the sound could be rather colored at specific frequencies? Looking at it the response graph would also be very interesting.
Do you think a piece of foam/stuffing glued to the back port wall would help the sound a little without blocking the lighting effect? Maybe a couple of inches thick to absorb soundwaves and with the edges tapered away from the acrylic.
If anyone wants to do DIY custom speakers keep in mind you can cut the driver holes with a router and a circle jig. It's kind of a pain but you can cut really nice accurate circles. My DIY speakers have overlapping drivers and that's how I cut them. The left and right speakers look identical.
13:14 Those globs of solder are indicative of "cold soldering". Heat the workpiece, not the solder! That way you won't have exposed conductor that will corrode, and you'll have a stronger mechanical (and ultimately electrical) connection. Also, using fasteners instead of glue might make this easier to open up in the future, for upgrades that you were considering (or fixing those solder joints).
You could add tiny balls to increase the surface area. Also, you want mm accuracy because it changes the sound (you can use acoustic simulation models)
Not sure if someone has mentioned it, but as someone who has worked in a glass shop for around 5 years I've used A LOT of that weldon stuff. The best way to apply it is to actually put your parts together and then apply the weldon to the seam and let it wick in. You'll instantly see it starting to melt the acrylic together.
Ahhhh now this is a good tip, thank you! The applicator makes way more sense now
Really nice work 👍
I like this project so much, I might have to copy these. A diffusion dome or panel would be a good idea.
That is DEFINITELY the way to solvent weld, although for the best seams he really should have used UV cure glue to avoid microbubbles.
As an actual acrylic fabricator, 100% agree, it works by capillary action, like water it will flow into the gap
I came to say this as well... only way to do it.
Wire strippers at 13'27" - A little tip for you. When you strip the end of the wire, leave the excess insulation ON and use that between your fingertips to twist the strands, THEN pull it off. That way you don't get finger grease all over the strands and it makes the solder joint more reliable. Great video btw!
Yeah, or you could just, you know, not be a disgusting slob and wash your hands after you get done eating your jar of mayonnaise.
Also, those type of wire strippers are pretty trash in my experience. Get some Jokari or if you have a lot of money to waste some Knipex or Wiha ones. The Jokari cost me €12 and were well worth it. Great Scott! recommends them as well.
Wow, not sure how I didn't know that trick. You learn something new every day. Thank you for that comment. Whether he learns from it or not, I just did.
My Dad taught me this when I was a nipper. It also makes it much easier and quicker to twist the strands as you can just roll the insulation between your fingers.
can we talk about how cool the post mortem aspect of these videos are? like no one else does that, and its really helpful to see how to improve something.
It's a good outlet for me because I always find 10 different ways I could've done a project better by actually building it. Designing is one thing, but going hands on makes things a lot more clear
@@ZacBuilds yeah i just finished my first project, and it had so many ups and downs so it was literally a roller coaster of happiness and sadness while making it lol.
Yes, I totally agree. I had stumbled upon a few Zac Builds videos, but was never compelled to subscribe. (No offense, I am more of the long-time Adafruit customer, "RIP Philips Hue & Govee" type than I am the "tear the guts out of a Philips Hue" type.) However, it was the Post Mortem aspect of the videos that finally earned my Subscription.
+1 for the post mortem! "Lessons Learned" is essential for everything from fabrication to car repair to gardening to IT because if you don't do that, you'll never be able to improve on future designs. This is a perfect example: Now you know you need to measure ... well, "everything" so that you don't have to cut away wood to make room for LED or crossover assemblies should you ever decide to do another speaker project. And I have an idea for another project. Make a set of speakers similar to the old "Magnaplanar" ones that don't need "box-shaped" enclosures, resulting in speakers about as thick as a framed painting. That would be truly space-saving, and I'm sure you could figure out a way to go completely bonkers with the LED rigging!
@@ZacBuilds i cant put my speakers on table that because it's pounds 191and it's a dual pa speaker that 6400 watts and plays at 138 db
You cannot make a speaker sound it's best in a cabinet without knowing the free air resonance, and the same goes for the port size/shape/type.
The acrylic probably resonates, the woofers are rather nonlinear, there's a lot of problems with the built. Nonetheless, it looks like a fun project.
I don't think good sound is his priority.
my point EXACTLY!!! without knowing that you are just fooling around in the dark!
The C-Note MT kit has the cabinet panel dimensions laid out for you - figuring out the interior dimensions from the MDF plans is pretty trivial. The crossovers and ports are part of the kit too.
I suspect the mismatch in resonances between the hardwood and the acrylic might actually help his sound out, but I'm not sure. I do wish his skyline diffuser was down at listening level where it's supposed to be though 19:02. That's not just decoration...
This is a kit wiseguy
Seeing someone wearing PPE when it's probably not necessary is very relieving with so many makers not using it when it really should be used. Major kudos.
12:45 however, when grinding PBC material, you must wear a respirator (or hold your breath). You don't want those glass fibers in your lungs.
@@daveahlman1 Ever so true grasshopper.
It should be a must while using the adhesives for acrylic. That stuff eats human organ tissue if you expose them to it.
"Turn this wasted space into something functional"
Dude...that space is functional and far from wasted. It's necessary to create good sound.
The reason the applicator looks like a needle is because you actually push the acrylic together and use the needle to apply the Weldon to the corners. Because it's so thin, the Weldon actually seeps into the corner and spreads itself out. You can look up people build aquarium tanks :)
Underrated comment. Just think of the soldiers' lives who could be saved if we made tanks out of acrylic. It's like permanent camo...and if they can travel under water, that's even better for those sneak attacks!
As an audiophile, you don't have to have the best quality. Sometimes it's about making yourself and your setup happy. Just because I wouldn't do doesn't mean you can't.
Yep!
Too many people wast money on fancy hardware and psychological cables just to use their set up at 1/4 the power in a non treated room not even respecting speakers positionning requirements.
@@simonrano8072 Yep. The rest of us think "That sounds nice" and then just enjoy the music.
While drinking the wine that we bought with the money we saved by using ordinary mains cable to connect our speakers. 😁
Aw a semi non recovered audioperv let’s there be subjectivity, how cute!
You're not an audiophile. You made a sensible, reasonable comment. Audiophiles don't do that. Perhaps you're a recovering audiophile?
The cool thing about UA-cam instructional videos is that you can see and avoid all the mistakes made before giving it a go on your own.
And if desk space is at a premium, make panel speakers and hang them on the wall.
Part of the problem imho with videos on speaker building on youtube is that they always show the build process. And never the design process or talking about why they do something. Actually building the box is usually the easy thing to do.
I really appreciate how your content has evolved, it's nice to see you make items for yourself that you actually use. Keep it up!
Thanks man, I appreciate you being with me long enough to see the change! It sometimes gets tough finding stuff to make I actually need/want, the house is starting to get pretty full 😂
Something you can do with acrylic to get it fogged/frosted is using an orbital sander with a medium high grit 180-200 and going over the surface of the acrylic. This is a diy approach and can be used if you accidentally nick one of the surfaces and don’t want to restart.
I absolutely love the dual purpose with the lighting as well. That thinner acrylic probably isn't the best for sound, but there are trade-offs in design. If you think they sound good, that is all that matters!
Awesome project and amazing results! I made an acrylic speaker a while back and I'm still working to get rid of the rattling, glad that wasn't a problem in this build!
Really like that Zac doesn't edit out his mistakes along the way! It's super realistic and actually very valuable to learn from!
Dude's running out of desk space, dude's also having 150 inch TV on his desk.😂
It's also less than an inch thick and set at the very rear edge of my desk with a custom made mount.
I would mount that monitor to the wall.
@@photonfartsqueeze6694 yea just screw it into the windows behind it 🤯🤯
I absolutely love when we make mistakes in making furniture or stuff like this, moments like this truly show how adaptable a person is, improvise, adapt, overcome🤣
> Your speakers are a waste of space
> Makes same size speakers that sound worse.
I heard you talk about this on the podcast.
It turned out really nice. I like how you integrate technology with woodworking. your channel seems to have a taste of DIY Perks with a strong focus on walnut instead of aluminium - which I like.
Walnut over everything!
@@ZacBuilds stainless for me. Aluminum for the jobs that aren't terribly needing in aesthetics. Normal steel if I'm either on a budget or doing something indoors in a dry room. House fires just aren't my thing.
I have maple floors and I regret it. 'can't trust a medium income set of renters to not damage it whenever I leave.
Those look very nice and seem to be a good design.
A couple ideas: 1) you could have used heat to bend the acrylic into a squared-off-u-shape and eliminated the Weldon 2) although it would eliminate light from the top, you could have made the top wood (leaving the sides acrylic and eliminated any seams) and incorporated wireless charging pads in the top of each speaker.
18:27 "They are only 40 watts". The 'watts' don't say how loud a speaker can play. There are horn-systems out there that will provide rock-concert volume with only 20 watts or so. It's the level of efficiency that can give you a hint (a speaker with 85dB will get not the half as loud as a speaker with 95 dB when provided with the same input power). These Speakers actually turned out pretty nice. Much better than i've expected in the beginning. Well done.
I've noticed this. I had a Dali Spektor 1 and a Bill Fitzmaurice Omnitop 12 connected to the same system and I had to turn the perceived volume up 3 times as high to get the Dali to be as loud as the Omnitop 12. The Dali sounded nicer (at least without the EQ module) but small bookshelf speakers with 4" woofers will suck down power to make them loud compared to a 12" and 1" compression driver.
Hi Zac! I do appreciate the Idea behind the build, as well as the quality of the work. You do however have some technical issues of varying degree.
First of all, you NEED some kind of dampening material in the cabinets, I realize that it might interfere with the lighting idea.. But there's pretty fluffy white poly filling that does the job just fine. The reason behind this is to absorb the back wave from the driver. Not doing this will result in pretty iffy resonance issues as it 'bounces' off the rear panel.
Second, A baffle that thick with a small midrange driver should have the rear of the cutout rounded or chamfered on the back side to help the driver 'breathe'. This can otherwise impact the midrange response. Depending on driver and baffle thickness, this might be an issue. It's good practice to just do it and be safe.
Third, Plexi as a material is fine actually.. Honestly most common materials are fine if it's structurally sound and thick enough, as long as it has proper bracing/support. These do not have proper support and are too thin though. So, you'll likely have resonance issues there as well. Your hardwood is fine, nothing wrong with it.
Otherwise, great job on the build and keep doing things! If you for some reason decide to do more audio things, feel free to reach out.
The number of comments on this video stating he did it wrong are baffling yours is the first I've seen with genuine advice. I have seen speaker cabinets with void space and no dampening but this space's volume and surfaces are specially designed to act as wave guides for each individual driver. This from my limited knowledge seems very complex to design around but definitely does seem to improve sound quality based on the speakers I've seen that implement them.
@@jackmarshall2496 Thank you! I try to offer sound advice and constructive criticism. I was speaking about his design mostly. But in general.. you cannot get away from some kind of damping behind the a driver covering the midrange unless it's.. open baffle or sealed back drivers. There are other creative solutions with varying degrees of success. The main thing is that the rear wave needs to be addressed, how is less important.
For speakers only covering bass, it's another story and not necessarily needed. :)
Those speakers look absolutely amazing. I have always loved the idea of people building their own speakers for that personal touch but this is a pair I haven't seen with lights be used like that. Very nice work.
Where has this guy been my whole life and how many skills does he have? The best mix of tech and DIY I didn’t know I needed.
Why is this video's entire premise centered on "space saving" yet the speakers are huge.
Oh dear, this is an "audiophile's" torture! Even I feel mildly infuriated, but I really enjoyed the aesthetic! The last "I'd like to incorporate more things within the speaker", tho, was the final nail in the coffin, like a stab in my chest when i thought triggering was done 🤣
Keep up the good work!❤🔥
Pretty much this. I'm not an audiophile but if we're going to take the time to build speakers we may as well do it properly. I'm still not sure why he needs to save space on a giant, empty desk.
@@alphaforce6998 well, my guess is "clean-desk aesthetic", which i Also enjoy! That said, one can use newer speaker technologies such as hard shell and mechanical bass drivers to shrink their size! Introducing lighting and other AC and/or PWM power sources within a noise-sensitive piece of equipment is generally considered a bad practice
What give me the more pain is to see the cheap rca cables used to connect the speakers ... i don't even want to see the amp.
The video is all trolling. Not just audiophiles, but really it's designed to drive mildly negative engagement from a variety of domain enthusiasts (cabinet builders, expert makers, LED lighting fans, etc.) while pretending to be maker-ey / tinker-ey enough to elicit a warm fuzzy counter argument from people with less of a clue of how they've been manipulated by the fast talk method. Most people trying CA glue the first time on acrylic are in for a bad time when it frosts splotchy and ugly, when other adhesives work. "Oh look I forgot about the crossover!" is just as fake as any other reality TV bit. It just goes on and on with trolling.
Even the initial premise is bs. People who value desk real estate put their monitors on adjustable mounts and speakers either wall mounted or on other elevated platforms, leaving the desk space clear for other uses. Heck the old school PC Hifi Logitech Z-560s had stands that pivoted into wall mounts 22 years ago and probably sound better.
@aaronb1138 I've never seen this channel before but you nailed it. It's genius really. Imagine how many algorithms this guy is in!
It looks like the only desk space you save was from putting your lights inside the speakers. In fact, it almost looks like your new speakers have the same or slightly larger footprint as the speakers you replaced.
The end product looks so clean. Well done
Thanks Andre!
Nice. Thanks for sharing not only the innovative projects but also reccomendations for the tools used...
I love the space saving feature above all else in this build. Very clever, I have a similar setup with a custom made soundbar and these same Philips Hue lights and I wish we had this video a few months back, I probably would have tried integrating the lights for a big fat behind the screen defuse ambiance.
Very cool 😎 they look great
Now you're giving me ideas! I just moved and need to redo my media center. Maybe I'll try and work some LEDs into my big wide center channel.... 🤔
Now this I have to see. With an ambilight like setup built into it, it could be great 😃
Original Parts-express kit describes MDF cabinets, not without serious reason: MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard, mostly wooden fibre) has not only desirable stiffness, but also has a proper internal self-damping, which is very different in acrylic material. So this project is rather a curious and funny thing, if not a waste of work, and maybe few dozens qubic inches between front and back panel less occupied space, so the title was just a clickbait. It's not really less space on a desk, plus IMHO surely worse acoustic ringing of the sides and top panel, especially without any internal damping material or some bracing. But then these boxes wouldn't look so unusual, and that's probably what the author wanted to stand out from the crowd, not necessarily the best possible sound from this P-ex kit.
BTW: I'm not an audiophile, but a sound engineer who also made some DIY loudspeaker cabinets AND also mesurements of much more commercial loudspeakers and studio monitors (including accelerometer checking of sides of cabinets).
At first I thought based on the title that you were going to do DML type DIY speakers and wall mount them, but these are pretty cool too even if they don't exactly save any space :)
Came here for this. How is this saving space, really?
Nice build. But how did you save desk space? 🤔
Okay so I’m just so angry that I’m just now finding your channel cause I love tech and love wood working. And your the perfect middle ground.
The whole thing can be solved by building supports that allow the speakers to be mounted outside of the desk
I wonder if everything will go as smooth if you just bend the acrylic with heat to avoid making them miters & using the weld-on stuff. It would definitely be seamless. But then you would need to round over to match the curves of the corner bend 🤔.
I'm actually working on a portable boombox as well and ordered my BT large ammo speaker kit Friday from Parts Express. My version also includes frosted acrylic AND walnut. No bending though as I'm doing something different & do not require much
I just built a desktop organizer/soudbar with 2 4" drivers and 1 5" sub. It's 7" tall, 7" deep and runs the lenght of my desk to make the speaker volumes work. It looks gorgeous since it's made from walnut.
from what I recall weldon is basically a solvent that melts the plastic. it would have been easier to hold the joint together then put the adhesive in the joint. it then melts the plastic together. you cant use it in the way like you would other glues. thats why its so thin.
Good call!
That looks very nice! Would be cool if you could make the lighting inside react to the sound they are playing
They actually can! The only catch is you have to use Spotify as it's the only app that integrates with philips hue. I don't use Spotify tho :(
Fantastic idea and a beautiful finished product! They look awesome!
Thank you! Cheers!
Cool. Looks like it was a fun project. Thanks for the video.
I am very happy too, this speaker make inspiration for more project to the future.
What a wonderful concept! With the frosting, it almost looks as if there is fog inside 🌫️
From someone that has built alot of speakers, you did a pretty good job.
Those Irwin wire strippers are the bomb! I've been using them for a year or so and will never go back to stripping wires using the old-school wire strippers.
Those speakers are Sweeeet! Nice! Inspired to try it myself
When those lights came on >>>>>>>>>>>❤
with that particular glue the pieces to be glued are first moved into the final position so when the glue is introduced to the joint it spreads evenly via capillary action
In this exciting episode, Zac sort of plans out something awesome without planning ahead somehow, again.
I'm messing with you bro, beautiful work as always.
The less you know, the happier you are. This guy is really happy.
LOL
I like the idea of incorporating desk hogging components into the speakers. However, I feel like you would benefit greatly from lifting the speakers off of the desk with some stands. I have my speakers mounted on a hacked together combination of $30 computer screen stands and speaker wall mounting brackets. It works beautifully. I can move my speakers side to side and rotate them in and out on the fly. The biggest drawbacks are that height adjustment is a complicated process, there is no way to slide the speakers forwards and back, and the speakers don't like to stay perfectly level on this stand. I need to revise this idea to make it easier to move them around and make them perfectly level. But still, I'm very happy with this solution even with the small drawbacks. My speakers are just floating above my desk, not wasting space, and I didn't have to drill holes in the wall.
Same, I have my speakers lifted onto some monitor arms (The type with the clamp and the bar that goes straight up). Now they take up no desk space plus they're at ear level.
With the goal being to save space, I thought using stands was such an obvious choice - I was so suprised when he didn't!
I love this channel man it's fun watching wood work.
I'm in love with that workshop
another great video from one of my favorite channels! You're an inspiration Zac!
Do you think you'll ever sell the cnc plans for this build? I would love to replicate this but instead of the acrylic panels just using some mdf.
Yes, it's 100% something I'm working on. I need to set up the infrastructure to do it and that's the main road block, but I'm in talks with a web developer.
The cross over board you've used is similar to perfboard or solderable breadboard. Two common types are padboard and stripboard
I like the idea but I noticed some aesthetics you maybe missed. I would have channeled the mid range driver a bit further to ad a cover plate over. (Which may be in your next video for a speaker grill.) I would chamfer the three edges on the front so more elegant styling would really make the build stand out. Maybe print a signature on the back and clear coat the front and back with matte clear finish.
Nice looks and ideas for the future😊
Thanks for sharing
I’ve had fully acrylic subwoofer enclosures in the 90’s to early 2000’s they sounded great
"LED diodes"
The D in LED already stands for Diode, no need to repeat the word. "Light Emitting Diode Diode"...
I've designed and built easily 300 to 400 loudspeaker boxes in my time, I guess I therefore know something about them. These here look nice, what I'd call good conversation pieces, but that's about all. I seriously doubt they have anything near good audio characteristics.
My main peeves are the materials. Never ever use hardwood for a box. Sure, hardwoods look cool, but best to leave them for your furniture. The best material I've so far found is low grade MDF that, thick enough (about 2 inches), will readily absorb the echoes in the box. Acrylic sheeting is also a very good material for boxes, I've seen it used on quite a few loudspeakers, but at least an inch thick, not the fraction of an inch used here.
There is a problem with transparent sides though. With all the wiring and dampening material needed inside these boxes maybe you'd rather hide that mess instead of letting everyone see it.
I've built boxes out of concrete and terracotta. My dream is to make some out of cast iron, I think that would be the ultimate loudspeaker box. You'd need a crane or at least a forklift truck to move them though.
Completely agree. If you want a hardwood look, put a veneer over MDF.
I've gotta save this video somehow because I LOVE the idea of building ambient lighting into the speakers like that :D
i'm sure you know this by now but it is really wild how you did almost everything wrong so confidently. i am gonna be pretty critical in this post but it is only because you seemed to include so many pitfalls for other makers within such a well produced and attractive video that i want to save others from troubles that are much easier to fix upfront.
if you wanted a hardwood look you should have veneered some mdf. as you noted early on solid hardwood is a very poor choice accoustically as well as due to its instability even when "sealed" and the misuse of capillary action glue on the acrylic was painful to watch as someone who used to build aquariums for a living lol.
making the design 3 sets of parallel walls with zero sound dampening material is perhaps the worst decision from a sound quality standpoint. at the bare minimum the rear, bottom and front (with properly sized cutouts for the speakers) panels should have had batting applied. a silicone type caulking or properly sized foam gaskets should have been used between the wood and the acrylic as well as on any cutouts for speakers and amplifier and port to provide fully airtight seals. if you really wanted to improve on the internal resonances a trapezoid shape with the front panel slightly larger than the rear L-R would have drastically cut out reflections and if you could have also angled the front panel back a few degrees the sound quality would improve in ways that make these punch way above their cost.
the last obviously wrong design choice was a large pad of foam to isolate it from the desk as it is proven that spreading the load out in this fashion couples your surfaces unless using very thick open cell foam when the goal is to decouple them.
they do look great and i am sure are a huge improvement over the tinny and puny tv speakers.
given that 4 months has gone by and you have received so many helpful critiques in that time it would be nice if you wrote and pinned a comment informing new viewers of what not to do as for a few dollars and minutes more you (and they) could have something intrinsically special and not special because you (they) made it. perhaps a new and improved version made into a new video which would only help your channel and it's viewers. recycling the drivers and electrical components into a new set of cabinets should be pretty simple and can add another facet to a video for those wishing to spruce up their sound and look with adding an integrated bluetooth amp to old pair of speaker's drivers and crossover that are hanging out in a cheap factory made cabinet they have as that cabinet is usually the weak point of budget speakers.
13:32 A nice example of so called "cold solder" where you have too little heat in the material and all the heat in the solder. This may work for a short while but it will typically crack in the long run and you'll have to resolder it again, hopefully right next time.
Get some foam circles that you put between the midrange and the cabinet when you screw it in (unless already applied to the speaker)
Looks good and nicely executed but I build spekers myself and know what a cabinet should or shouldnt do and there is absolutely no way that this is a good one. There might be no rattle but the acrylic is flexing and therefore essentially acting like a driver when it really should be as stiff as possible!
The two things that really stood out to me that you should consider in any future build is that when porting a speaker, you never want to run a straight port aimed directly at the back of a speaker. I don’t know if you actually calculated the port size and length that should be used in your build to get the best sound out of your drivers, but if you didn’t, you should. And after calculating, you should keep that number in mind when sticking a 90° elbow on the end of the port. So that the port wouldd stay within the best recommended size for your speaker, but no longer would you be running a straight port aimed directly at the back of your driver.
The other thing that I saw that you should keep in mind for future builds is bracing. The reason people don’t use acrylic for their speaker builds very often is because it can flex easily with the speaker playing. You mitigate vibrations and flexing by bracing your cabinet. So it would have been helpful if you could have braced all that internal space with maybe somr acrylic arches, running front to back, left to right or vice versa.
they’re cool speakers. Just a couple things to keep in mind next time when building a pair. Cheers.
Yeah. The overlapping of speakers is a real problem.
Of all the issues that did exist with this project, a lack of stiffness is not among them. He did (apparently) neglect to use gasket material in the channels so air will seep through even if the channels are tight. Bracing is really only needed in high-power applications or where the cabinet is large such as with subwoofers. Thick acrylic sheets are actually very stiff. Here he is using a cheapo chinese 40w amp that is probably not going to reach its rated power anytime soon.
@@alphaforce6998 thanks for the insight. I wasn’t aware, or don’t pick up on, the amp size. That all makes sense. Yes, thick acrylic is stiff. Is it thick acrylic though? It appeared to be pretty thin acrylic
To me. And I contend that it’s highly likely that that acrylic is relatively resonant. It’s no where near as effectively damped as if it had been just a normal speaker box the same size. And I also contend that you can’t exactly go wrong with more bracing. You may be right that the amp is just so mildly powered that it’s not going to push the driver to the point where resonance is an issue, but personally, I would rather go overkill on bracing and damping
Than to just not even consider it within the design. There are speakers with much stiffer enclosures than this speaker with 3 acrylic sides that still brace their enclosures well. It may have taken away from the aesthetics of this build so it wasn’t worth sacrificing them at all for what the speakers are. You’re probably right there.
@@kilgoretrout4461 I've been building speakers for a while and have made some excellent-sounding original designs. I have also tried some ideas that I ultimately didn't like.
My suggestion for anyone that wants this kind of speaker with clear side panels and LED lighting is to internally enclose the speaker drivers in a wooden cabinet, then on the outside you can put the acrylic panels and lighting. At least that way, the aesthetic elements will not hinder the sound quality. The lighting can be accomplished with an LED strip, and with the strip you have more options for placement. It can still be made to sync with that lighting system he was using.
You are correct that acrylic does not offer much in the way of dampening so it will definitely amplify resonances inside the box, which will make certain sound frequency ranges sound "muddy" due to the interference.
How did this clear up space?
You can achieve the same effect of slightly "melting" / gluing acrylic using acetone. Also super glue works quite well.
funnily enough i scavenged speakers out of an old soundbar which had a absolutely drenched board. took this old 250watt PA system amp and ive been running the 50/60 watt 6 inch sub as a primary (hoping to find and scavange a second one with a ported box) with two small like 4 by 2 inch rectangle speakers which are about 25-30 watts each for this odd combination of deep low and decent highs. Very good work!
As a desktop speaker you may not get into this situation, but ideally you don’t want the sides of your speakers to vibrate. At louder volumes and at certain frequencies you my introduce distortion from the thin and low mass sides. An acrylic rod say 1” diameter could be glued in the center of the panels as side bracing to help mitigate this.
They look awesome, great work man!
For future speakers, consider using a Dayton Audio KAB amplifier with DSP. You can eliminate the passive crossovers along with the associated downsides. Each driver will get its own tuned amplifier and you can order mounting and control hardware. To save desktop space in my own setup, I bought some ART RM5 studio monitors. They are especially thin powered speakers with VESA mounting holes. I removed the stands and attached monitor arms to each, so that they are completely off the desk and positioned perfectly to the sides of my monitor.
You might want to add air vents the unit to allow the heat from the LED's to dissipate. The life of you LED is be shorten quite significantly from the build of heat. Seems a lot of builders that include LED into their projects over the importance of air flow for LED's
Love the look of these speakers, they so unique wish i had them to match with my bedroom studio❤🔥
Its all good if you have the shop and the equipment
Keep up the great content!
That background music you play when you're in your apartment really reminds me of the music from Taz-Mania. Zero coaster use? You sure do like to live dangerously. And I'm curious if that's a Canadian-ism, calling it a crossover board, or if I've been using the wrong name. All my life I've called those perf boards.
As for ideas about light diffusion, you could try some vellum glued to the acrylic panels, although you have to be careful about watermarks because that'll be highly visible in a scenario like this. Love the walnut.
I ordered the boards from an American site and they were listed as cross over boards 🤷♂️ I think if I want the diffusion to work as well as possible I need to get it closer to the source or the lights. The p95 by itself does diffuse light, just not enough to completely obscure the diodes
Here in Australia, soldered prototyping boards are generically called perf boards, as well. The best known brand for them used to be Veroboard
Solderless wire jumper prototyping boards are known as breadboards, is that the same in Canada?
@@t4N9410oR Here in the US we call those chunky white boards used for prototyping bread boards. I'm not sure if they use the same name in Canada, maybe Zac will respond on that.
All solvent welding relies on introducing precise amounts of the solvent to parts already fitted together with sufficient gap to allow capillary action to draw the solvent through the join. Then after sufficient time for softening of the surface, mild pressure is applied to force them together and as the solvent fully evaporates over time you have a fully fused 'welded' joint.
Very nice build, I plan to build some as well but my goal will be to have the face at an angle (facing a little bit up) since I'll use them as monitor stand for side monitors
How will the lights work when you get the dampening material in the speakers?
Funny note on using solid stock to make boxes. I've tried it myself. One box is square, the other has twisted. So if the bases are pushed together, one if facing straight forward, the other is a few degrees to the left. Stayed sealed, so meh whatever :-)
At 13:26 Leave the small piece of insulation on so you can twist the wire easier.
looks great, Dude!!
Thanks buddy :)
The reason the applicator is a needle is so that you bring you seams together than run the needle along that inside corner and liquid is so thin it permeates into joint.
No doubt these are very cool. Speaker design needs serious changes from the typical box style. But . . . how did you save desk real estate with these?
By putting the Philipps LED lights inside them instead of next to them. But that's about it.
@@wiiten I was wondering this myself since most people have a light on their ceiling already haha
I wonder what servicing them would be like considering the all glue approach to assembly. I suppose your hand could fit in where the driver comes out
This was one of, if not, the best build I have watched from you! Fantastic job! All of the tools you have at your disposal is honestly a jealousy point, but oh well, lol. Not too late to print a diffuser (half moon) in clear petg and add it I would think. Great job!
dude those are BEAUTIFUL lots of inspiration here
I built lights underneath my speaker stand (the platform where the speakers sit on) instead. Just some CCT COB led strips connected to hue with a gledopto controller. Does the job, different type of illumination though. Just a thought for people who don't want to make new speakers. Very cool idea though!
Zac absolutely beautiful design there. Can't wait to see more videos soon my friend. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Keep making. God bless.
Thanks man! Hope you're doing well and making yourself! Cheers.
They look amazing, great idea to add the lights inside 👍🏻
Ref the wire strippers...when the strippers leave the stripped bit attached to the copper strand, use it to twist the copper strand and make a nice uniform and tidy twist. The insulation will pop off since the core reduces in diameter when twisted.
Interesting design. Although I am curious to what are the parameters that the speaker box is designed around, especially the Q values. I do not see any damping materials being added inside the speaker box, so the sound could be rather colored at specific frequencies? Looking at it the response graph would also be very interesting.
"I am constantly running out of desk space"
Looks to me like you have plenty. You should see my desk.
has to be cabinet resonances with thin walls no bracing and no insulation. Creative build none the less.
Zac, from one Canadian bother to another, love your work. Keep it up.
Thanks man! I'll do my best 😃
Do you think a piece of foam/stuffing glued to the back port wall would help the sound a little without blocking the lighting effect? Maybe a couple of inches thick to absorb soundwaves and with the edges tapered away from the acrylic.
It would help for sure
If anyone wants to do DIY custom speakers keep in mind you can cut the driver holes with a router and a circle jig. It's kind of a pain but you can cut really nice accurate circles. My DIY speakers have overlapping drivers and that's how I cut them. The left and right speakers look identical.
13:14 Those globs of solder are indicative of "cold soldering". Heat the workpiece, not the solder! That way you won't have exposed conductor that will corrode, and you'll have a stronger mechanical (and ultimately electrical) connection. Also, using fasteners instead of glue might make this easier to open up in the future, for upgrades that you were considering (or fixing those solder joints).
You could add tiny balls to increase the surface area.
Also, you want mm accuracy because it changes the sound (you can use acoustic simulation models)