Your method makes good sense. Do you ever talk about using Lucas transmission additive for transmission slippage? I put it in my 2007 Ford F-150 and it stopped the slippage almost immediately. What an incredible product.
Such an amazing video! I managed to get the brand's repair manual of my car and the suggested method is just as described! I've a question tho, is it necessary to change the filter? As far as I know it isn't mentioned in the manual. Thanks in advance
An even better kept secret than doing a full flush after the ATF is all worn out, is to do single drain&fill more frequently. Three drain&fills with 60% drain makes 95% new fluid exchange, which you would typically do every 50k miles, like the flush method in this video achieves - 95% new ATF every 50k. You can wait until 50k miles until the old ATF is worn out, or you can do single drain&fill more often to maintain better quality oil throughout the 50k traditional interval, but still achieve 95% new fluid every 50-60k as if you did it all at once. Doing 3 drain&fills all at once at 50k interval achieves same result as this video of 95% new ATF, but drain&fillx3 wastes 3 more quarts of new oil but it is far less complex without the plumbing and measuring the having a helper. But doing single drain&fill every 20k miles has no waste, has no plumbing or measuring, and it's even more simple than drain&fill 3x with drives in between, and it has the added benefit of keeping the additive and detergents newer throughout the traditional 50k interval. Using a high quality, fully synthetic aftermarket ATF like RedLine D6 and tranny will work better and have more protection than any OEM ATF. Blessings
That's the method I use and the Honda dealer i used to work at does that method three drain and fills ..I've used the T-TECH machine which is the absolute best method to change 100% of the fluid
@@c.h.u.d Ya with Honda it's easy to break into rubber cooler return line, so you can D&F tranny, then run two new quarts through the dipstick at a time, shut off and refill until it runs clean out the cooler return line. With Valvoline ATF this got my original '00 Ody 4sp to 290k!
Great video! One question, why drain the TF pan first and then do the flush? Isn't the flush going to remove *all* the fluid from the transmission? Seems to me that the first drain from the TF pan is not needed. Am I missing something?
My corolla 2010 has 120k miles and it never changed the transmission fluid but it works really great. Did you recomend to complete flush the transmission ?
As it has been said at this mileage without changing it . You could ruin your transmission by replacing it with new at this time . Should have maybe replaced it and filter ? each 40000 - 50000 miles .
It's not necessary. Transmission fluid isn't exposed to combustion contaminants so it doesn't get damaged the way engine oil does. The simple replacement of the fluid that you can drain out of the pan is good enough. The new transmission fluid you add dilutes the fluid that remains in the torque converter.
@Peter Rudy that is such illogical nonsense. If your transmission internals are so worn out that it's only shifting due to the wear contamination in the old transmission fluid it's already trashed and will fail in the near future regardless. Removing old contamination via replacing the fluid will do nothing except benefit your transmission regardless of mileage unless it's already near failure as I just explained. Change you fluid at least every 60k or as soon as you purchase a used vehicle. My one caveat to purchasing a used vehicle is to be wary of any used vehicle that has recently had a transmission fluid flush. I only say this because 99% of newer cars don't have service intervals for their transmission fluids (which is to appease the EPA not longevity) therefore people tend to only replace fluid when they are experiencing shifting issues and it's likely to late. If you see via detailed service records they're likely a responsible car owner who simply opted to take better care of the car than it is likely worth the risk but do your due diligence in having the car inspected and ask the shop to access if any transmission codes were previously deleted from the system. There are far to many people who are shady and dishonest unfortunately.
That's pretty much the way I've been doing it for years. Couple of ideas that may help. 1. One may have a hard time finding a hose that will fit the radiator properly. If the hose is too small, wrap the end of the hose with electrical tape to increase its diameter so it will fit the opening snug and won't leak. Using the tape trick, you can also join two hoses of different diameters together. Sometimes you've got to make do with what you've got. 2. I made my own measuring container with a gallon water bottle. Just add 1 quart of water and mark the level with a magic marker. repeat until you have 4 quart marks. The marks are easy to see when flushing. When doing the job I flush two quarts (rather than one) then fill and repeat.
doesn't the new fluid you add mix with the old fluid that is still in there? it seems to me the intake should be in a container that holds the new fluid, i.e. a container with about 12 quarts of new fluid and the output hose should be in an empy container catching the old fluid as it comes out when you turn on the engine and when it comes out clean and red then you have replaced the fluid. also when your running the engine with a constant flow of new fluid coming in you could even run through the gears i.e .park, neutural, drive, 2nd gear etc. i really don't know what do you think?
No. Whenever I’ve performed this procedure the transmission fluid eventually turns red from the new fluid, which would not happen if it was mixing with the dirty fluid.
So, if you don't want to do a "Flush" but do want to remove as much oil as possible during a fluid change....why don't you drain the pan AND then drain the return area? Seems if you did both you have as much old fluid out as possible. Obviously, I am missing something?
@@proclaimliberty2000 - Yes, I understand the return goes back to the pan.....but I have noticed when doing flushes people empty the pan, THEN hook up a hose to the radiator area and start the car to get out the fluid in that area. Is there a reason this is not done when just changing fluids? Or would it cause damage to the car to drain the pan and then just run in park a little while to pump out the fluid being cooled? Thanks.
I did it in my 2016 dodge caravan 120.000km and it failed the car is hard shift Rpm going to high I will never change it again Now i have to deal with this problem bad decision
Your problem was the caravan's transmission. Not this procedure. I have a 2012 caravan that didn't make it to 100,000miles before the transmission completely blew. Once you get a new transmission, maintain it by swapping out the fluid every 50 to 60k. I ordered a rebuild and installed it myself. It wasn't too bad and I didn't need to lower the sub-frame to do it. Transmission slid right out from underneath.
Thanks for your great videos! You actually saved me money last year.
👍😊
Excelente vídeo. Aplicaré este procedimiento en mi automóvil. Saludos desde México.
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Your method makes good sense. Do you ever talk about using Lucas transmission additive for transmission slippage? I put it in my 2007 Ford F-150 and it stopped the slippage almost immediately. What an incredible product.
This is a great idea.Do u also add a cleaning/flushing agent?
Such an amazing video! I managed to get the brand's repair manual of my car and the suggested method is just as described! I've a question tho, is it necessary to change the filter? As far as I know it isn't mentioned in the manual. Thanks in advance
An even better kept secret than doing a full flush after the ATF is all worn out, is to do single drain&fill more frequently. Three drain&fills with 60% drain makes 95% new fluid exchange, which you would typically do every 50k miles, like the flush method in this video achieves - 95% new ATF every 50k. You can wait until 50k miles until the old ATF is worn out, or you can do single drain&fill more often to maintain better quality oil throughout the 50k traditional interval, but still achieve 95% new fluid every 50-60k as if you did it all at once. Doing 3 drain&fills all at once at 50k interval achieves same result as this video of 95% new ATF, but drain&fillx3 wastes 3 more quarts of new oil but it is far less complex without the plumbing and measuring the having a helper. But doing single drain&fill every 20k miles has no waste, has no plumbing or measuring, and it's even more simple than drain&fill 3x with drives in between, and it has the added benefit of keeping the additive and detergents newer throughout the traditional 50k interval. Using a high quality, fully synthetic aftermarket ATF like RedLine D6 and tranny will work better and have more protection than any OEM ATF. Blessings
That's the method I use and the Honda dealer i used to work at does that method three drain and fills ..I've used the T-TECH machine which is the absolute best method to change 100% of the fluid
@@c.h.u.d Ya with Honda it's easy to break into rubber cooler return line, so you can D&F tranny, then run two new quarts through the dipstick at a time, shut off and refill until it runs clean out the cooler return line. With Valvoline ATF this got my original '00 Ody 4sp to 290k!
Great video, thanks for making it.
Say... that looks like a dental scaler. Great job.
Thank you from KSA.
👍😊
Great video! One question, why drain the TF pan first and then do the flush? Isn't the flush going to remove *all* the fluid from the transmission? Seems to me that the first drain from the TF pan is not needed. Am I missing something?
Its so the transmission starts sucking in new fluid and getting rid of old fluid, instead of sucking in old fluid
The top cooler line is the return? I alwsys thought it was bottom
Great Video! Thanks
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You're awesome my friend thanks a lot.
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What size Allen was used at :31 second?
My corolla 2010 has 120k miles and it never changed the transmission fluid but it works really great. Did you recomend to complete flush the transmission ?
As it has been said at this mileage without changing it . You could ruin your transmission by replacing it with new at this time . Should have maybe replaced it and filter ? each 40000 - 50000 miles .
It's not necessary. Transmission fluid isn't exposed to combustion contaminants so it doesn't get damaged the way engine oil does. The simple replacement of the fluid that you can drain out of the pan is good enough. The new transmission fluid you add dilutes the fluid that remains in the torque converter.
@Peter Rudy that is such illogical nonsense. If your transmission internals are so worn out that it's only shifting due to the wear contamination in the old transmission fluid it's already trashed and will fail in the near future regardless. Removing old contamination via replacing the fluid will do nothing except benefit your transmission regardless of mileage unless it's already near failure as I just explained. Change you fluid at least every 60k or as soon as you purchase a used vehicle. My one caveat to purchasing a used vehicle is to be wary of any used vehicle that has recently had a transmission fluid flush. I only say this because 99% of newer cars don't have service intervals for their transmission fluids (which is to appease the EPA not longevity) therefore people tend to only replace fluid when they are experiencing shifting issues and it's likely to late. If you see via detailed service records they're likely a responsible car owner who simply opted to take better care of the car than it is likely worth the risk but do your due diligence in having the car inspected and ask the shop to access if any transmission codes were previously deleted from the system. There are far to many people who are shady and dishonest unfortunately.
How do I remove it all from a 1st gen Tundra. 13qts.
Nice video
👍😊
That's pretty much the way I've been doing it for years.
Couple of ideas that may help.
1. One may have a hard time finding a hose that will fit the radiator properly. If the hose is too small, wrap the end of the hose with electrical tape to increase its diameter so it will fit the opening snug and won't leak. Using the tape trick, you can also join two hoses of different diameters together. Sometimes you've got to make do with what you've got.
2. I made my own measuring container with a gallon water bottle. Just add 1 quart of water and mark the level with a magic marker. repeat until you have 4 quart marks. The marks are easy to see when flushing. When doing the job I flush two quarts (rather than one) then fill and repeat.
Put a damn drain plug in the pan, since the stupid manufacturers dont.
doesn't the new fluid you add mix with the old fluid that is still in there? it seems to me the intake should be in a container that holds the new fluid, i.e. a container with about 12 quarts of new fluid and the output hose should be in an empy container catching the old fluid as it comes out when you turn on the engine and when it comes out clean and red then you have replaced the fluid. also when your running the engine with a constant flow of new fluid coming in you could even run through the gears i.e .park, neutural, drive, 2nd gear etc. i really don't know what do you think?
No. Whenever I’ve performed this procedure the transmission fluid eventually turns red from the new fluid, which would not happen if it was mixing with the dirty fluid.
05 DeVille transmission fluid removal and fluid
So, if you don't want to do a "Flush" but do want to remove as much oil as possible during a fluid change....why don't you drain the pan AND then drain the return area? Seems if you did both you have as much old fluid out as possible. Obviously, I am missing something?
The pan and the return area are one in the same.
@@proclaimliberty2000 - Yes, I understand the return goes back to the pan.....but I have noticed when doing flushes people empty the pan, THEN hook up a hose to the radiator area and start the car to get out the fluid in that area. Is there a reason this is not done when just changing fluids? Or would it cause damage to the car to drain the pan and then just run in park a little while to pump out the fluid being cooled? Thanks.
I did it in my 2016 dodge caravan 120.000km and it failed the car is hard shift Rpm going to high
I will never change it again
Now i have to deal with this problem
bad decision
Your problem was the caravan's transmission. Not this procedure. I have a 2012 caravan that didn't make it to 100,000miles before the transmission completely blew. Once you get a new transmission, maintain it by swapping out the fluid every 50 to 60k. I ordered a rebuild and installed it myself. It wasn't too bad and I didn't need to lower the sub-frame to do it. Transmission slid right out from underneath.