You have the wrong direction of rotation!!! The second nut, the one that you cannot undo, you are tightening it, not loosening it!!!! One can tell by the direction in which the tool body moves when you press the trigger. In the first case, which is correct it, moves slightly clockwise which is normal, opposite the torque you are applying to the nut. In the second case your tool moves counterclockwise which means the force applied to the nut is clockwise, so tightening it! One can also see the direction switch - sticks out on the right in the first case but not in the second. Also, for impact wrenches, the battery state plays no role as the torque comes from the impacts. As long as the tool vibrates you are getting the full force! Finally, full equivalent torque is achieved after several seconds of operation, not instantly: look in the tool manual at the torque graphs! You will probably need about 5-6 seconds of continuous operation to achieve the equivalent torque of 190Nm.
Thanks for pointing this out and you are quite right, well spotted. It's a genuine mistake caused, I suspect, when I wound the first bolt back in and then forgot to reverse the direction of rotation for the subsequent attempts. These things happen when you are filming - you are thinking of trying to stay in the shot correctly and to say things clearly and concisely and unfortunately the actual job you are doing gets subconsciously de-prioritised. Looks like I need to do another follow up video to set the record straight.
So you were are pointed out for an error you made and yet you left this video online and havent even addressed it on another video like you are saying. at least delete this video as it provides us the wrong information .....
Thanks for taking the time to make the update. The guy who recommended the DTW1002 is probably right but at the current price of £300 plus for this version, too rich for my wallet.
Hi, thanks for watching and I'm glad you found it useful. Elsewhere in the comments you'll see that John has done his own video and his DTW190z handles wheel nuts no problem so maybe my unit is faulty. I have reached out to Makita to see what they say.
I ve bought one 1002 4 years ago with a brand new 5 amp battery,right from the start it struggled with a starter 13 mm bolt,i dont know what to say,i thought that spending that much money i wold never embarass myself with it.I think rust changes a great deal the force needed for breaking bolts,it is a good tool,but not great,the quality and endurance of it makes it a good investment
That is disappointing... thanks for sharing this! Unfortunately, I've just bought mine. At least it helps with those smaller bolts. Had to remove my Land Cruiser's doors the other day (6 bolts while holding the door with the other hand - worked like a charm!).
Hi and thanks for watching. It's great to hear you are still finding yours useful. That said elsewhere in the comments you'll see that John has done his own video and his DTW190z handles wheel nuts no problem so maybe my unit is faulty. I have reached out to Makita to see what they say.
@Jonathas Junior it's actually served me really well, I recognize that for wheel nuts its a little underpowered. But for driving large bolts into walls it's perfect.
Just saved me from making a wrong purchase. I did try the DTW190 on the back of your video and had the same results so purchased a DTW300 instead. Twice the price, but it does the job.
I do wonder, though, why is Makita so expensive when it takes to strong impact wrenches. I can buy a 450Nm DeWalt for 150€, but the equivalent in Makita goes for much more. Have you ever used battery converters? I don't want to start a DeWalt set, but Makita doesn't convince me either...
Ah's (amper hours) dosent mean more power. Its just how long you can running your tool. 2ah battery running out of power half faster than 4ah battery pack. Volts could make difrense but that you cant change easely and that could brake tool if you some hove could but more volt in to your tool.
Thanks for the comment Tebi. Certainly that's consistent with what I found, although my 5.0AH battery is a little healthier than my 3.0AH according to the test I had done at the Makita Service centre, which might explain a slight difference.
Thanks John for the comment. I've sold those specific sockets as I believed their "total drive" design was affecting performance and I've bought exactly what you've suggested, a 17mm deep six sided impact socket like this one - amzn.to/3arGI54. It has helped a little but this unit still isn't powerful enough for wheel nuts in my opinion.
Thanks for those suggestions and the Milwaukee stuff I know is good quality. I used the Makita on a recent job and it worked brilliantly and this time it even worked on wheel nuts. Have a look: ua-cam.com/users/shortspxQ_0EC7d5c?feature=share
Interesting the influence a fully charged 5mA battery can make. You must be close to the operating limit. Looks like you need a 25% torque capacity in reserve when specifying the right (Makita) torque wrench. Thanks for sharing will bear in mind before I buy.
No problem and thanks for commenting but you should be aware that there is an error in the video which another viewer pointed out, in that I didn't engage reverse for the second attempt. Still the fact remains that despite what the specs say, it can't reliably undo wheel bolts, which is a real shame.
This has to be WRONG I have one of these and it will take the wheel nuts off my van which are done up to 235nm so not sure if you have it on wrong setting but the one I have would lace off 110nm easy
Well it's all there on video and it's been back to Makita and they say it's performing to spec, so who knows. But as you have one you know that there is no "setting" to change the torque output, right?
I wouldn't expect so. An impact driver and an impact wrench are essentially the same thing, just with different output shafts, with the former using a 1/4" hex, whereas the latter in my case has a 1/2" square drive. To undo wheel nuts just needs more torque than this DTW190 can give.
205 NM should be more than enough, but whether that's supplied by an impact wrench or an impact driver is irrelevant. Ultimately though an impact driver is limited by the amount of torque that can be transferred through a 1/4 hex, whereas an impact wrench doesn't have the same limitation.
Hey dude, something must be wrong with your impact wrench. I work at a Opel and Chevrolet dealership and i have tested mine with a 5Ah battery on several models. For example: It could loosen Camaro lug nuts, which are tourqed to 190 Nm, with ease on all four wheels (I used long sockets, which are specifically made for impact wrenches). The wheels sat on the car for like a year, so no easy job. Greets from germany.
Hi, thanks for watching and leaving a comment. I also use long impact sockets (a Draper 17mm in my case) and it definitely works better using that than the "total drive" sockets I was using before. But there's no way it would work on 190Nm nuts. I took it back to the Makita service centre here in the UK and they tested it and found it was working to spec. They also tested my 5ah battery and found it had only been cycled 36 times so there was no issue there either. Other than the wheelnut issues it works great and it had no trouble recently removing a 24mm nut from an alternator shaft that had been on there 30 years.
Thank you for getting back to my question, but not exactly what I wanted to hear 😊. I was aiming towards how accurate your torque wrench is, this could have a big influence on your test.
Ah, your question makes sense now. Teng are a reputable maker of tools, it was calibrated at the factory, I never use it other than to tighten things to a specific torque and I always store it in the 0nm setting so while it may not be 100% I suspect it will still be close enough in accuracy to not have a meaningful impact on this test. You have given me a good idea for a new video though which will involve testing torque wrenches - thank you!
i believe you may have a defective product. get one off amazon and compare it to yours and if its the same send it back free of charge if you have prime.
You are probably right Sam, but it went back to the Makita service centre (which isn't too far from me) and they declared it was fine and all in spec. They even checked my batteries for me. I will be upgrading to a Milwaukee though so I'll do a comparison when it arrives.
@@EduardoPerez-wl4yp because industry standards come from places where industry is strong, not from places where the society is civilised enough to drop stupid measurement units and embrace the IS
You have the wrong direction of rotation!!! The second nut, the one that you cannot undo, you are tightening it, not loosening it!!!! One can tell by the direction in which the tool body moves when you press the trigger. In the first case, which is correct it, moves slightly clockwise which is normal, opposite the torque you are applying to the nut. In the second case your tool moves counterclockwise which means the force applied to the nut is clockwise, so tightening it! One can also see the direction switch - sticks out on the right in the first case but not in the second. Also, for impact wrenches, the battery state plays no role as the torque comes from the impacts. As long as the tool vibrates you are getting the full force! Finally, full equivalent torque is achieved after several seconds of operation, not instantly: look in the tool manual at the torque graphs! You will probably need about 5-6 seconds of continuous operation to achieve the equivalent torque of 190Nm.
Thanks for pointing this out and you are quite right, well spotted. It's a genuine mistake caused, I suspect, when I wound the first bolt back in and then forgot to reverse the direction of rotation for the subsequent attempts. These things happen when you are filming - you are thinking of trying to stay in the shot correctly and to say things clearly and concisely and unfortunately the actual job you are doing gets subconsciously de-prioritised. Looks like I need to do another follow up video to set the record straight.
@@MostlyHelpful Looking forward to your retake of the video!
Thanks mate!
So you were are pointed out for an error you made and yet you left this video online and havent even addressed it on another video like you are saying. at least delete this video as it provides us the wrong information .....
Thanks for taking the time to make the update. The guy who recommended the DTW1002 is probably right but at the current price of £300 plus for this version, too rich for my wallet.
Hi, thanks for watching and I'm glad you found it useful. Elsewhere in the comments you'll see that John has done his own video and his DTW190z handles wheel nuts no problem so maybe my unit is faulty. I have reached out to Makita to see what they say.
I ve bought one 1002 4 years ago with a brand new 5 amp battery,right from the start it struggled with a starter 13 mm bolt,i dont know what to say,i thought that spending that much money i wold never embarass myself with it.I think rust changes a great deal the force needed for breaking bolts,it is a good tool,but not great,the quality and endurance of it makes it a good investment
That is disappointing... thanks for sharing this! Unfortunately, I've just bought mine. At least it helps with those smaller bolts. Had to remove my Land Cruiser's doors the other day (6 bolts while holding the door with the other hand - worked like a charm!).
Hi and thanks for watching. It's great to hear you are still finding yours useful. That said elsewhere in the comments you'll see that John has done his own video and his DTW190z handles wheel nuts no problem so maybe my unit is faulty. I have reached out to Makita to see what they say.
Thanks, I'm deciding between DTW190 and DTW300 and this helped.
Hi Erik, thanks for taking the time to comment. I hope the DTW300 works out well for you.
If Beethoven had been payed half the money owed to him from the royalties of Für Elise, he'd been able to buy some decent hearing aids
Why do I always watch these reviews after I've already bought things. I believe I'm a glutton for punishment.
We've all been there for sure!
Are you happy wt this DTW190 ?
@Jonathas Junior it's actually served me really well, I recognize that for wheel nuts its a little underpowered. But for driving large bolts into walls it's perfect.
Just saved me from making a wrong purchase. I did try the DTW190 on the back of your video and had the same results so purchased a DTW300 instead. Twice the price, but it does the job.
Hi Alastair, thanks for your comment and I'm glad my video has helped you in your purchasing.
I bought a used almost as new dtw 300 for 140€ 😁 does the job superbly
I was hoping for this video to validate my intention to cheap out and not buy a stronger impact wrench 😢
Certainly when it comes to Makita, it seems stronger is better. I still use it for other stuff, but it still can't undo wheel nuts reliably.
I do wonder, though, why is Makita so expensive when it takes to strong impact wrenches. I can buy a 450Nm DeWalt for 150€, but the equivalent in Makita goes for much more. Have you ever used battery converters? I don't want to start a DeWalt set, but Makita doesn't convince me either...
Ah's (amper hours) dosent mean more power. Its just how long you can running your tool. 2ah battery running out of power half faster than 4ah battery pack. Volts could make difrense but that you cant change easely and that could brake tool if you some hove could but more volt in to your tool.
Thanks for the comment Tebi. Certainly that's consistent with what I found, although my 5.0AH battery is a little healthier than my 3.0AH according to the test I had done at the Makita Service centre, which might explain a slight difference.
Did you tried with long impact socket? It weights more, gives more power 😀
Thanks John for the comment. I've sold those specific sockets as I believed their "total drive" design was affecting performance and I've bought exactly what you've suggested, a 17mm deep six sided impact socket like this one - amzn.to/3arGI54. It has helped a little but this unit still isn't powerful enough for wheel nuts in my opinion.
@@MostlyHelpful thank you for feedback. I had fear you would say that it didnt help :(
Lidl impact wrench the professional one the dark grey with brushless motor seems quite good. Milwaukee is very good but also very pricey.
Thanks for those suggestions and the Milwaukee stuff I know is good quality. I used the Makita on a recent job and it worked brilliantly and this time it even worked on wheel nuts. Have a look: ua-cam.com/users/shortspxQ_0EC7d5c?feature=share
Interesting the influence a fully charged 5mA battery can make. You must be close to the operating limit. Looks like you need a 25% torque capacity in reserve when specifying the right (Makita) torque wrench. Thanks for sharing will bear in mind before I buy.
No problem and thanks for commenting but you should be aware that there is an error in the video which another viewer pointed out, in that I didn't engage reverse for the second attempt. Still the fact remains that despite what the specs say, it can't reliably undo wheel bolts, which is a real shame.
Much appreciated, thank you.
Thanks Walter, I'm glad it helped.
Thx for sharing
My pleasure, and thanks for watching my video.
Thanks for sharing
No problem, thanks for watching.
This has to be WRONG I have one of these and it will take the wheel nuts off my van which are done up to 235nm so not sure if you have it on wrong setting but the one I have would lace off 110nm easy
Well it's all there on video and it's been back to Makita and they say it's performing to spec, so who knows. But as you have one you know that there is no "setting" to change the torque output, right?
Looks like an impact driver will do better
Am I right?
I wouldn't expect so. An impact driver and an impact wrench are essentially the same thing, just with different output shafts, with the former using a 1/4" hex, whereas the latter in my case has a 1/2" square drive. To undo wheel nuts just needs more torque than this DTW190 can give.
@@MostlyHelpful The dewalt gives 205 NM
Isn't that enough for most cars lug nuts?
205 NM should be more than enough, but whether that's supplied by an impact wrench or an impact driver is irrelevant. Ultimately though an impact driver is limited by the amount of torque that can be transferred through a 1/4 hex, whereas an impact wrench doesn't have the same limitation.
Hey dude, something must be wrong with your impact wrench. I work at a Opel and Chevrolet dealership and i have tested mine with a 5Ah battery on several models. For example: It could loosen Camaro lug nuts, which are tourqed to 190 Nm, with ease on all four wheels (I used long sockets, which are specifically made for impact wrenches). The wheels sat on the car for like a year, so no easy job. Greets from germany.
Hi, thanks for watching and leaving a comment. I also use long impact sockets (a Draper 17mm in my case) and it definitely works better using that than the "total drive" sockets I was using before. But there's no way it would work on 190Nm nuts. I took it back to the Makita service centre here in the UK and they tested it and found it was working to spec. They also tested my 5ah battery and found it had only been cycled 36 times so there was no issue there either. Other than the wheelnut issues it works great and it had no trouble recently removing a 24mm nut from an alternator shaft that had been on there 30 years.
How good is your toque wrench?
Hi Andre, it is fine and works well but it isn't a "nice" as my Gedore, but they do tend to be a lot more expensive.
Thank you for getting back to my question, but not exactly what I wanted to hear 😊. I was aiming towards how accurate your torque wrench is, this could have a big influence on your test.
Ah, your question makes sense now. Teng are a reputable maker of tools, it was calibrated at the factory, I never use it other than to tighten things to a specific torque and I always store it in the 0nm setting so while it may not be 100% I suspect it will still be close enough in accuracy to not have a meaningful impact on this test.
You have given me a good idea for a new video though which will involve testing torque wrenches - thank you!
Just buy the DeWalt 899....it will take any wheel nuts off with any size of battery, more expensive but you get what you pay for.
I've decided to go with Milwaukee so I can get a normal one and a right angled one on the same battery platform.
i believe you may have a defective product. get one off amazon and compare it to yours and if its the same send it back free of charge if you have prime.
You are probably right Sam, but it went back to the Makita service centre (which isn't too far from me) and they declared it was fine and all in spec. They even checked my batteries for me. I will be upgrading to a Milwaukee though so I'll do a comparison when it arrives.
Newton meters. Americans watching this video, take note bloody start using civilised units
Well.... I'm not american, but then, please explain why the 17 mm socket is mounted in a 1/2" shaft?
@@EduardoPerez-wl4yp because industry standards come from places where industry is strong, not from places where the society is civilised enough to drop stupid measurement units and embrace the IS