Love those types of hangers. So, as I believe, the reason most shops won't turn slotted rotors is that they are basically one long interrupted cut. The tech will have to make a few shallow passes vs 1 good pass, and still risks breaking the cutting bits. I'm willing to cut slotted rotors, but honestly to make it worth my time and resourses I gotta charge more than the usual cost of new rotors. But if you *need* those particular rotors I will cut them. I guess if you had strange rotors that are hard to find, or if you're really in a rush, its worth paying my required time to cut them.
I like these kind of videos.Everyone can put new parts, especially tuning parts, on a car and it looks pretty good.But the intresting thing is how the parts look after 20k miles or 30k km.This is what makes this video so helpfull.You can base your decisions on a real test.Because every company praises their products as the best.
Charles I do the same wire wheel trick on the carriers and clips . I’m a Canadian apprentice so we do a ton of servicing brakes with the road conditions we have . I noticed a lot of people taking way too much material off of pads and carrier mounting surfaces with die grinders allowing for enough pad movement to create a noise thus leading to customer complaints , the wire wheel does a greAt job of removing all the dirt and debris without removing original material !
I used to deglaze my rotors all the time with sand paper in a circular pattern. It was not uncommon to get a rust ridge on the rotor that caused a noise issue. Now they sell a rotor with a coating to prevent that for areas that use a lot of salt on the roads. I take a turkey baster and remove most of the brake fluid in the master cylinder and put in fresh whenever I do a brake job. That cleans up the fluid and prevents the master cylinder from damage over time from old fluid.
Especially when working on German cars. I don't know why many American, Japanese, and Korean cars will sometimes give you enough brake rotor material to be machined once, but it almost never happens when dealing with German or Swedish cars.
In Northern Mi, we get a rust ridge on the outer part of the rotor. I usually grind them off and deglaze with sandpaper and good to go. Now they sell a rotor with a ceramic coating to prevent that ridge problem.
@@skylinefever where I live, the rotor is usually salt damaged so turning them is not an option. I have to remove a rust ridge at the top of the rotor if they start making noise in between brake jobs. Now they sell ceramic coated rotors to prevent that.
Rocking the ChrisFix style pretty good. On a sidenote: I did my first brake job on my own. Replaced the lines, hubs, rotors and pads on the rear end of my A3 8L (2001). I didn't opt in to upgrade the hubs as well as lines as it is only the rear. Feels pretty good to accomplish something new as well as to have brand new brakes in the back. I had to replace the lines as the others were heavily corroded underneath the black plastic and one of the hubs was hanging really bad so I did a full job on both sides. Only drawback is the brake fluid. This stuff is pretty nasty. :O
Thanks for doing this video, as I running these brakes on my MKV TDI. I would like to mention a couple of things though. You may want to remove the small bit of rust around the hub centric hub on the hub and put some nickel anti-seize around the hub and the back side of the rotor. On the part of the rotor that is up against the hub. This prevents the rotor from getting rusted to the hub. On my wife's R32, I had to use a hammer to get the rear rotors off. They were frozen to the hub. And this was on a California car. After you clean off the surface on the caliper carrier, where the pads ride, the factory calls for grease on the carrier. Makes the pads slide a little easier and prevents that area from getting rusty. Personally, I use Molybdeum Disulfide paste. A little better than MDS grease.
Get the black powerflex, you wouldn’t have a cracked bushing with those hockey pucks. Also you should have no problem having those slotted rotors turned in a standard brake lathe. The hone is a nice touch even on a freshly machined set of rotors.
I had been working for 6 years and half in a factory where we printed plastic seals. Among them, polyurethane ones. Poly bushings are really common upgrade/replacement for cars, polyurethane is a good material indeed, but really hard to cast properly and every single piece must be checked very carefully for small air bubbles or deformation which lead to this kind of crack seen at 2:43 (that will lead to the total destruction of the piece itself). Considering the very high price of poly bushings, i would consider standard rubber bushings honestly.
I like to clean and lubricate my Tyrolsport pins every time I rotate the tires. This might be excessive, but if these start to bind it’ll negatively impact your ability to modulate the brakes (pedal will feel “sticky” as you release brake pressure), so I like to keep these clean and happy at all times.
i just replaced my TT control arm bushings. i did some reading on polly and the bushing that cracked is not the proper application for polly. its not supposed to bend in that way. the front bushing i replaced with polly and the rear bushing i replaced with solid rubber. i dont know why people manufacture a polly bushing for that application but they do.
@@Gunt4sh The grease is to control squeal and vibration under partial brake application. Some pad manufactures recommend or even include it with their pads, some flatly say their design doesn't require it.
@@breakupgoogle I'll clarify...he only seemed to apply brake grease to the guide pins and not to the pad backing/ears to avoid any heat transfer/vibration/noise issues. To lube, or not to lube...that is the question 👍
I have had good luck with machine shops cutting slots and drilled. edi t. i have personally cut tons of slotted and drilled. you have to do a few thousandths of an inch at a time, but as long as they are close to true there will be enough grove left.
Every brake job I did whether it was mine or a customer job I would turn the rotors (if still turnable) and while still on the machine run a home on them to get that good cross hatch pattern in them for good break in. Any cleaning of the calipers and cast parts I'd use a brass wire wheel or brush.
Charles what up!! I need your help I have a 2005 Touareg 4.2 right outside Philadelphia I do all the work myself but recently transmission just giving issues I need a mechanic in this area if you know of any thanks keep up the great videos
Poly bushings are not a particularly good choice for any spot where the suspension moves in any way but rotating around the center line of the bushing, as in the front control arm bushing. The rear bushing should be rubber or a bearing.
I agree, but I’m also not a fan of manufacturers relying on engineered bushings for significant articulation in the suspension, like the bushings in the rear of these control arms. Mazda did something like that with the chassis I play with and while my car with a standard bushing seems to last forever the later cars with that style bushing seems to have failures early and often. And I see them fails a lot in other cars that employ them regardless of who makes them.
I have built and inexpensive break cleaning tool I took an old electric motor fixed on a workbench machine an hub, attached to the hub. It works great.
Little late to the game here, but how critical is it when doing a fluid bleed or flush to cycle the ABS if the procedure calls for it? I've done a few cars where the procedure calls for it, but I have skipped the step, since I didn't have a way to do it. Everything turned out fine in those cases, and as best I can tell, maybe I left a little bit of old fluid in the ABS pump.
Hello! Quite interesting since my rear brakes are about to get changed! I was wondering if you could do a video on what to look for on mk4 platform before doing a long trip. As an example I did preventive maintenance on my GTi a month ago (timing belt, vbelt, oil and filters) to just get my alternator fail 700 km away from home on another country. I was lucky to get a replacement on that country and me being competent enough to being able to swap it on the middle of nowhere but I would love to try next year the same trip knowing that I'll have a somewhat reliable Golf hahaha. Things like bushings, plastic fusebox melting causing problems with electrical systems, possible leaks that from your experience should be done to improve reliability on a long trip... that kind of stuff. Thank you and keep that nice content coming!
Charles, I wonder if anyone would resurface your rotors with a flywheel grinding machine. The only special “tool” you’d need is a machined spacer to sit on the inside of the hat so your referencing off the inside of the hat and not inner pad surface, then use a regular band around the edge to dampen vibrations/chatter. Judging by the machining pattern, I’m fairly certain Harley Davidson does something similar to surface their rotors from the factory.
I've recently discovered the wheel hanger..... my life was empty before! Enjoying your videos on the R32 as I own a VW Bora (Jetta in the US) of a similar age. Replaced the centre console after watching your video the other week. Keep up the good work.
Poly bushings don’t do well under multiaxial loading and twisting. They tend to tear like you’ve just shown in the video. The OEM solid rubber R32 bushing is probably the best bet.
And for bleeding/compressing caliper piston tip I’ve picked up ages ago was to crack the bleeder so you don’t push that old dirty fluid back into the system.
Awesome job man, but one thing I would've done, and this is just me, having the twin pistons om the front, I would've cleaned out the inside of the piston, and also set them up to make sure you don't have piston sticking, I had the same problem on my Santa Fe when I upgraded the rotors, ended up replacing the fr side caliper, lf was good. Anyways awesome 👍 job, I'm like you, I might go back to the oem solid bushing too
I’d say if checking a great and easy place to start is the res. If that’s good checking at the caliper is a solid idea. But if it’s not, time for a flush anyway
@@jonasthemovie at the calliper, its usualy in worse quality than in reservoir. At caliper it gets high temps and gets ruined more faster. Get moisture and rusts piston.
Little off topic here, but charles when you put your mk3s crank back in with new main bearings, did you notice if it was easier or a little bit harder to spin without any rods and pistons in? My crank is a little difficult to spin with only the main bearings and caps installed. Appreciate any feed back and enjoy your videos!
Great tip using the turkey baster to reduce brake fluid volume when pushing the brake pistons back in. Definitely going to use that during my next brake service. I learn something new from every video you release Charles! Cheers! BTW - LOVE that auto-cross video footage! I need that in my life! From your friendly Canadian prairie driver
I had the same issue with my PowerFlex control arm bushings. Wound up going with Lella Autosport bushing Kit. OEM rubber rear, but a Delrin front bushing. Much happier with that system
I just did a rear brake pad and rotor replacement on my 2010 Ford explore I bled all the brake calipers but not the master cylinder and the brake pedal feels good. I’m getting a noise at slow speed that sounds like it’s coming from the master cylinder area do you think it’s air in the system and the master cylinder needs to be bled?
The Bentley manual for the 2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDI I used to have said to depress the brake pedal during power flush of brake fluid. What is the reason to do that, and should I do it when I flush my 2015 Golf Sportwagen TDI?
not 100% sure, as i havent done any testing personally but ive heard the audi TT control arm bushings are stiffer and completely filled as opposed to the open R32 ones. I got mine on FCP which you cant beat with the lifetime warranty. may be worth a look
Why are those slots facing that way? Aren’t those rotors on the wrong side? Does it not matter? I thought they were supposed to encourage material to move out and away rather than toward.
Surprised you did not use anti seize where the pad rides on the carrier, It is a step i never overlook. It may not do too much, but if i can reduce friction anywhere im going to, even if its just for my own peace of mind. Long time subscriber, still love your videos man, keep killin it!
Poly control arm bushings tend to wear poorly. The flex really reduces wear on the bushings and helps the suspension move smoothly, so some OEM ones will last way longer and possibly feel better.
Why no copper grease on the moving parts? Pads, piston and caliper? If I was going to the effort of taking the caliper off, I'd of given them a clean as it'd only take a few min n it'd look a lot nicer
Nice work, I recommend an electronic brake fluid tester. I use my bleeder pot dry so it never gets put away with fluid in it, just have to keep the master cylinder reservoir level nice and high. Cool idea honing rotors, I am a diy guy so paying to turn rotors has been uninteresting to me and i have been fine without that. Love Danville, I know that place well, keep it up! :) PS I literally steered away from non-bonded poly compliance bushings, warranty or no, they were too much trouble.
Poly bushings are almost always inferior to high grade rubber OEM bushings. I was supplied poly bushes for my GTI rear sway bar upgrade, and they crapped out in only a few k's (plus they squeaked a lot despite the grease) - found a rubber one to suit from the Toyota Landcruiser parts list and have had bliss since. I used poly caster bushes in my Nissan Patrol control arms and tore them to shreds in only one Simpson Desert crossing. Went back to the OEM rubber ones and fitted drop boxes for caster correction and they've been trouble free for 70,000 ks. Stay away from Poly in my opinion.
@@HumbleMechanic Poly bushings are no good in that position. That bushing isn't just loaded radially, but also axially at an angle. That bushing is supposed to be able to flex as the suspension moves up and down. The stock bushing will last a lot longer as it is rubber, so it is able to flex along with the suspension. Now the front bushings on the control arms can by poly, but for the rear position bushings, you'd want to stay away from poly.
Do you not lube the pads(or atleast the ears) the ride in the carrier? I was taught to lube that area and the back of the pad. But I also failed a my brake job on my Mkv somehow. I will investigate that further next week.(tagged you in the r32 group in the post)
Sorry for reviving an old thread. I've watched this last year. I brought some mk4 r32 brake set up to go onto a project mk4 1.8t build......well things have changed.....my question to you is. Can I use these (mk4 r32 brakes) on a mk6 platform. What would I need to do to make them work. Does anyone have any ideas??
Excellent again! I have a 2016 GTI, and wish I could have gotten one with the Performance Package, but still really enjoy mine! I do however want improved brakes ... do you have any specific ideas? I tried to find some VW GTI performance pack and Golf R brake "take-offs" to install but no luck so far. A friend suggested "Power Stop K7059" kit... but I have no experience if its really better than stock. When you did your research, did you rely upon a test or study that pointed you to these brakes? :-) What would recommend? Thank you!
Love ya work . Maybe suggest to use a wire brush on a drill to internally clean the rust and debris from inside the brake pistons , then coat with a smear of high temp grease to inhibit oxidation . cheers
I have used on my 2009 CC on the break fluid change Ate Blue and done drivers front first,front passenger moved to the rear passenger and then drivers rear. What's your take on this,is it wrong or ok Greetings Michael
Good video! - I've personally never rated poly bushes. They just don't last, usually 20k miles and they split, crack or just shrink....i've always seen them as a bit of a con vs OE rubber bushes. They get people with their pretty bright colors, and many say they feel so much better - and yes they can stiffen things up (at the cost of longevity) but the majority of improvement in feel is purely from replacing a a worn out factory bush with something new.
Interesting that the r32 came with a two piston caliber setup and the newer Golf R has the everyday one caliber piston setup. I love VW , but they need to get a BBK for their hot hatches.
Was anyone else waiting for the "now we apply just s little bit of medium strength thread locker"? ... Wrong channel? Lol, love the content Charles, keep it up! Edit: first heart on UA-cam and it's from *the* HumbleMechanic, appreciated!
So i have a mk2 Audi TT and from what i believe iy's basically a mk5 gti for the most part. So my brakes squeel a lot when cold with OEM pads afte a whole new rotor and pad instalation and it's been like 3 months after intsall anything I should check? I did have a loose caliper and it wore my one pad scew but i'm hearing squeel from more than one rotor. any suggestions?
Bolts are easy, plus the different lengths for steel versus alloy rims are hard to do in a stud form, either they stick out far, or are too short depending on the wheel type. Not much difference from each other, just that bolts at least have the wearing part easier to change, plus broken ones are, because the tension is now off them, are easy to remove, provided you have not left them on for ages to rust fast. Studs on the other hand are a PITA to change, especially when you have no clearance behind to remove them, and have to take a hub apart to do so. Smaller heads as well on them, so smaller diameter possible on the wheel boss, while still having enough strength and fatigue life to last.
SeanBZA Nope, I’ll take all the supposed drawbacks to studs just so I don’t have to mess with changing a tire on the side of the road on a car with bolts. I work on to many cars. And you are wrong about the wearing parts being easily replaced, the threaded holes in the flange are wear points and if someone cross threads a bolt or threads on a damaged bolt you are now replacing that hub and likely bearing. And since you are almost certainly dealing with a European car you are paying more.
@@DrewLSsix Funny enough where I am much cheaper buying VW parts than buying GM spares. Even though GM parts are mostly Daewoo, they are very much more expensive, as they are sold as if they are US made. VW hub assembly is under $40 here from a reliable second source, and includes every part. Good thing about GM is that here you just buy the equivalent Daewoo part, either genuine or pattern, and avoid what is left of the GM network, but always a week or two wait for parts is common.
Finally someone who does a follow up on parts/mods, very helpful thank you!
Thanks. I feel like no one ever does that. Lol
I don't ever recall seeing the brake fluid test strips before today. Looks like a great item to add to the garage.
Yeah they sell them online, also I've seen them at harbor freight
They are nice for when you want to take a break.
*BRAKE
The joke
---
@@RuneRavenX
Love those types of hangers.
So, as I believe, the reason most shops won't turn slotted rotors is that they are basically one long interrupted cut. The tech will have to make a few shallow passes vs 1 good pass, and still risks breaking the cutting bits. I'm willing to cut slotted rotors, but honestly to make it worth my time and resourses I gotta charge more than the usual cost of new rotors. But if you *need* those particular rotors I will cut them.
I guess if you had strange rotors that are hard to find, or if you're really in a rush, its worth paying my required time to cut them.
I like these kind of videos.Everyone can put new parts, especially tuning parts, on a car and it looks pretty good.But the intresting thing is how the parts look after 20k miles or 30k km.This is what makes this video so helpfull.You can base your decisions on a real test.Because every company praises their products as the best.
I used to use 40 grit sand paper to rough up rotors when doing a ghetto pad slap.
as an owner of a mk4 r32 i really appreciate these videos
Charles I do the same wire wheel trick on the carriers and clips . I’m a Canadian apprentice so we do a ton of servicing brakes with the road conditions we have . I noticed a lot of people taking way too much material off of pads and carrier mounting surfaces with die grinders allowing for enough pad movement to create a noise thus leading to customer complaints , the wire wheel does a greAt job of removing all the dirt and debris without removing original material !
This video was a great excuse to do a well organized and thorough inspection. Plus we get to hang out in the shop and learn something. Thanks Charles.
Thanks so much!!!!
I used to deglaze my rotors all the time with sand paper in a circular pattern. It was not uncommon to get a rust ridge on the rotor that caused a noise issue. Now they sell a rotor with a coating to prevent that for areas that use a lot of salt on the roads. I take a turkey baster and remove most of the brake fluid in the master cylinder and put in fresh whenever I do a brake job. That cleans up the fluid and prevents the master cylinder from damage over time from old fluid.
That brake rotor hone is actually a pretty cool alternative for the DIY guy... many rotors these days cant be resurfaced too much... :)
That’s true most are too thin.
Especially when working on German cars. I don't know why many American, Japanese, and Korean cars will sometimes give you enough brake rotor material to be machined once, but it almost never happens when dealing with German or Swedish cars.
In Northern Mi, we get a rust ridge on the outer part of the rotor. I usually grind them off and deglaze with sandpaper and good to go. Now they sell a rotor with a ceramic coating to prevent that ridge problem.
@@skylinefever where I live, the rotor is usually salt damaged so turning them is not an option. I have to remove a rust ridge at the top of the rotor if they start making noise in between brake jobs. Now they sell ceramic coated rotors to prevent that.
@@scottfirman I do encounter situations where rust pits can't be machined out. I didn't think about that because I live where there is no road salt.
9:00 the big groove in the middle is also for venting the pad but since you have slotted discs it isn't a big problem not having it
Rocking the ChrisFix style pretty good.
On a sidenote:
I did my first brake job on my own. Replaced the lines, hubs, rotors and pads on the rear end of my A3 8L (2001). I didn't opt in to upgrade the hubs as well as lines as it is only the rear.
Feels pretty good to accomplish something new as well as to have brand new brakes in the back.
I had to replace the lines as the others were heavily corroded underneath the black plastic and one of the hubs was hanging really bad so I did a full job on both sides. Only drawback is the brake fluid. This stuff is pretty nasty. :O
WOW that wheel hanger is so simple yet so handy
Great video on checking. One important part I think you missed was cleaning wheel hub of any rust to ensure disc runs straight.
Fascinating. Didn't even realise you could purchase a brake disk honing tool. Never needed one that I know of, but still, I learn't something.
Thanks for doing this video, as I running these brakes on my MKV TDI. I would like to mention a couple of things though.
You may want to remove the small bit of rust around the hub centric hub on the hub and put some nickel anti-seize around the hub and the back side of the rotor. On the part of the rotor that is up against the hub. This prevents the rotor from getting rusted to the hub. On my wife's R32, I had to use a hammer to get the rear rotors off. They were frozen to the hub. And this was on a California car.
After you clean off the surface on the caliper carrier, where the pads ride, the factory calls for grease on the carrier. Makes the pads slide a little easier and prevents that area from getting rusty. Personally, I use Molybdeum Disulfide paste. A little better than MDS grease.
Get the black powerflex, you wouldn’t have a cracked bushing with those hockey pucks. Also you should have no problem having those slotted rotors turned in a standard brake lathe. The hone is a nice touch even on a freshly machined set of rotors.
I had been working for 6 years and half in a factory where we printed plastic seals. Among them, polyurethane ones. Poly bushings are really common upgrade/replacement for cars, polyurethane is a good material indeed, but really hard to cast properly and every single piece must be checked very carefully for small air bubbles or deformation which lead to this kind of crack seen at 2:43 (that will lead to the total destruction of the piece itself). Considering the very high price of poly bushings, i would consider standard rubber bushings honestly.
When I had my 20th, I had bad results with poly control arm bushings. I eventually switched to the solid golf R bushings
One thing you forgot to mention was when winding back the rear piston- Make sure the dimples in the piston are aligned properly for the pad!
Humble Mechanic - please address this concern... it’s quite important actually...
I like to clean and lubricate my Tyrolsport pins every time I rotate the tires. This might be excessive, but if these start to bind it’ll negatively impact your ability to modulate the brakes (pedal will feel “sticky” as you release brake pressure), so I like to keep these clean and happy at all times.
Good call. I wasn’t noticing any issues with the brakes. Just more inspection here.
Hi man, on the rear brake calipers there should be sheet metal brackets for brake pads (part Nr. 1J0 615 231 A), why don´t you use them?
i just replaced my TT control arm bushings. i did some reading on polly and the bushing that cracked is not the proper application for polly. its not supposed to bend in that way. the front bushing i replaced with polly and the rear bushing i replaced with solid rubber. i dont know why people manufacture a polly bushing for that application but they do.
Hey, just a quick question. Noticed that you installed your pads dry. Is that a personal preference or a vee dub dealership thing?
dry?
@@breakupgoogle Meaning some people will put copper grease on their pads before installing them back into the car.
@@Gunt4sh yeah or add grease to the pad grooves on the bracket.
@@Gunt4sh The grease is to control squeal and vibration under partial brake application. Some pad manufactures recommend or even include it with their pads, some flatly say their design doesn't require it.
@@breakupgoogle I'll clarify...he only seemed to apply brake grease to the guide pins and not to the pad backing/ears to avoid any heat transfer/vibration/noise issues. To lube, or not to lube...that is the question 👍
I have had good luck with machine shops cutting slots and drilled.
edi t. i have personally cut tons of slotted and drilled. you have to do a few thousandths of an inch at a time, but as long as they are close to true there will be enough grove left.
Every brake job I did whether it was mine or a customer job I would turn the rotors (if still turnable) and while still on the machine run a home on them to get that good cross hatch pattern in them for good break in. Any cleaning of the calipers and cast parts I'd use a brass wire wheel or brush.
I'm a machinist and I've made a few of those wheel hangers there a great tool for doing brakes or something else that you need to take the wheel off
Charles what up!! I need your help I have a 2005 Touareg 4.2 right outside Philadelphia I do all the work myself but recently transmission just giving issues I need a mechanic in this area if you know of any thanks keep up the great videos
Poly bushings are not a particularly good choice for any spot where the suspension moves in any way but rotating around the center line of the bushing, as in the front control arm bushing. The rear bushing should be rubber or a bearing.
I agree, but I’m also not a fan of manufacturers relying on engineered bushings for significant articulation in the suspension, like the bushings in the rear of these control arms. Mazda did something like that with the chassis I play with and while my car with a standard bushing seems to last forever the later cars with that style bushing seems to have failures early and often. And I see them fails a lot in other cars that employ them regardless of who makes them.
I prefer the BFI control arms for this reason. Poly front (articulating in one one plane), rubber rear.
I have built and inexpensive break cleaning tool
I took an old electric motor fixed on a workbench machine an hub, attached to the hub.
It works great.
Little late to the game here, but how critical is it when doing a fluid bleed or flush to cycle the ABS if the procedure calls for it? I've done a few cars where the procedure calls for it, but I have skipped the step, since I didn't have a way to do it. Everything turned out fine in those cases, and as best I can tell, maybe I left a little bit of old fluid in the ABS pump.
Hello! Quite interesting since my rear brakes are about to get changed!
I was wondering if you could do a video on what to look for on mk4 platform before doing a long trip.
As an example I did preventive maintenance on my GTi a month ago (timing belt, vbelt, oil and filters) to just get my alternator fail 700 km away from home on another country. I was lucky to get a replacement on that country and me being competent enough to being able to swap it on the middle of nowhere but I would love to try next year the same trip knowing that I'll have a somewhat reliable Golf hahaha.
Things like bushings, plastic fusebox melting causing problems with electrical systems, possible leaks that from your experience should be done to improve reliability on a long trip... that kind of stuff.
Thank you and keep that nice content coming!
Loved this episode especially the ending track bits....
Damn dude.... big smiles Charles
what happened to cleaning the hub it s full of rust. how do you expect the rotor to run true? am i missing something here.
Charles, I wonder if anyone would resurface your rotors with a flywheel grinding machine. The only special “tool” you’d need is a machined spacer to sit on the inside of the hat so your referencing off the inside of the hat and not inner pad surface, then use a regular band around the edge to dampen vibrations/chatter. Judging by the machining pattern, I’m fairly certain Harley Davidson does something similar to surface their rotors from the factory.
I've recently discovered the wheel hanger..... my life was empty before! Enjoying your videos on the R32 as I own a VW Bora (Jetta in the US) of a similar age. Replaced the centre console after watching your video the other week. Keep up the good work.
Awesome!!!
Poly bushings don’t do well under multiaxial loading and twisting. They tend to tear like you’ve just shown in the video. The OEM solid rubber R32 bushing is probably the best bet.
That is good to know. I have heard that one solution is to fit a Heim joint.
Skyline Fever heim joint would work too but they do increase NVH substantially. They also require continual lubrication
I noticed you didn't use anu grease on the brake pads. I always use a little cheramic grease where the pads slide on the carrier
I almost never do. I’ve never had issues with chatter on high quality pads.
And for bleeding/compressing caliper piston tip I’ve picked up ages ago was to crack the bleeder so you don’t push that old dirty fluid back into the system.
Is there a reason why you put the rotors sweeping forward? The slots that is. I thought they were supposed to sweep the other direction.
That’s the direction the company designed then to face
is there supposed to be some anti rattle clips on the rear calipers ?
No copper or ceramic grease on the pad backs, pad slide points?
Awesome job man, but one thing I would've done, and this is just me, having the twin pistons om the front, I would've cleaned out the inside of the piston, and also set them up to make sure you don't have piston sticking, I had the same problem on my Santa Fe when I upgraded the rotors, ended up replacing the fr side caliper, lf was good. Anyways awesome 👍 job, I'm like you, I might go back to the oem solid bushing too
brake fluid reservoir is not correect to check for good fluid, its calliper, bleed little bit to test it.
martins licis where does contaminants enter?
I’d say if checking a great and easy place to start is the res. If that’s good checking at the caliper is a solid idea. But if it’s not, time for a flush anyway
@@jonasthemovie at the calliper, its usualy in worse quality than in reservoir. At caliper it gets high temps and gets ruined more faster. Get moisture and rusts piston.
Outstanding! I was just studying brakes at school. Which study guide do you recommend for A5 ase?
No copper grease on the pad contact surface?
Little off topic here, but charles when you put your mk3s crank back in with new main bearings, did you notice if it was easier or a little bit harder to spin without any rods and pistons in? My crank is a little difficult to spin with only the main bearings and caps installed. Appreciate any feed back and enjoy your videos!
Great tip using the turkey baster to reduce brake fluid volume when pushing the brake pistons back in. Definitely going to use that during my next brake service. I learn something new from every video you release Charles! Cheers!
BTW - LOVE that auto-cross video footage! I need that in my life!
From your friendly Canadian prairie driver
I started doing that about 8 years ago on my Chevy TrailBlazer
Any particular reason why you don't lube the sliding surface of the brake carrier (6:50)?
I don’t even own this car, but still enjoy watching all of your videos. Keep up the great work!
Thanks so much
I had the same issue with my PowerFlex control arm bushings. Wound up going with Lella Autosport bushing Kit. OEM rubber rear, but a Delrin front bushing. Much happier with that system
They ar perfect in the front. But the tears are just not happy. Going OEM I think
I just did a rear brake pad and rotor replacement on my 2010 Ford explore I bled all the brake calipers but not the master cylinder and the brake pedal feels good. I’m getting a noise at slow speed that sounds like it’s coming from the master cylinder area do you think it’s air in the system and the master cylinder needs to be bled?
Look like you had slit drive side cv boot. How come you didn't clean hub
The Bentley manual for the 2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDI I used to have said to depress the brake pedal during power flush of brake fluid. What is the reason to do that, and should I do it when I flush my 2015 Golf Sportwagen TDI?
Chris Willis Only when the pedal is all the way up is the reservoir in direct connection to the brake lines so flush can be performed.
After using that hone tool, do you have any opinions of that vs using a roloc disc?
I liked the hone. It didn't feel like I was going to create a low spot, and not little yellow bits hitting me in the face.
not 100% sure, as i havent done any testing personally but ive heard the audi TT control arm bushings are stiffer and completely filled as opposed to the open R32 ones. I got mine on FCP which you cant beat with the lifetime warranty. may be worth a look
TT and R32 are the same bushing.
FCP is great. But the TT and R32 use the same bushings
Why are those slots facing that way? Aren’t those rotors on the wrong side? Does it not matter? I thought they were supposed to encourage material to move out and away rather than toward.
Surprised you did not use anti seize where the pad rides on the carrier, It is a step i never overlook. It may not do too much, but if i can reduce friction anywhere im going to, even if its just for my own peace of mind. Long time subscriber, still love your videos man, keep killin it!
The wheel hangers help preserve the brake shields by not getting bashed by the wheel when taking it off.
Truth!!!
Aren't those rotor slots backwards?
Great info and even better production!
Poly control arm bushings tend to wear poorly. The flex really reduces wear on the bushings and helps the suspension move smoothly, so some OEM ones will last way longer and possibly feel better.
This is the first issues I’ve ever had. Lol
Added the dip tube to the bleeder lid, to keep the level, yet?
Why no copper grease on the moving parts? Pads, piston and caliper?
If I was going to the effort of taking the caliper off, I'd of given them a clean as it'd only take a few min n it'd look a lot nicer
I’ve never greased lads and never had an issue.
None of that other the the pins is greased form the factory
@@HumbleMechanic fair enough.
Nice work, I recommend an electronic brake fluid tester. I use my bleeder pot dry so it never gets put away with fluid in it, just have to keep the master cylinder reservoir level nice and high. Cool idea honing rotors, I am a diy guy so paying to turn rotors has been uninteresting to me and i have been fine without that. Love Danville, I know that place well, keep it up! :) PS I literally steered away from non-bonded poly compliance bushings, warranty or no, they were too much trouble.
I have an electronic one but it doesn’t work. Hahah
Hey Charles you didn't add grease to the rear pad / carrier contact areas?!
Nope. I never do.
@@HumbleMechanic why so? The fronts get greased but how come not the rears ?
I'm sure that PowerFlex will send you a new set of bushings since they're cracking so soon.
They have lifetime warranty so they will always replace them
I’m sure they will. They are awesome. I’m going to try the stock ones to compare
Poly bushings are almost always inferior to high grade rubber OEM bushings. I was supplied poly bushes for my GTI rear sway bar upgrade, and they crapped out in only a few k's (plus they squeaked a lot despite the grease) - found a rubber one to suit from the Toyota Landcruiser parts list and have had bliss since. I used poly caster bushes in my Nissan Patrol control arms and tore them to shreds in only one Simpson Desert crossing. Went back to the OEM rubber ones and fitted drop boxes for caster correction and they've been trouble free for 70,000 ks. Stay away from Poly in my opinion.
@@HumbleMechanic Poly bushings are no good in that position. That bushing isn't just loaded radially, but also axially at an angle. That bushing is supposed to be able to flex as the suspension moves up and down. The stock bushing will last a lot longer as it is rubber, so it is able to flex along with the suspension. Now the front bushings on the control arms can by poly, but for the rear position bushings, you'd want to stay away from poly.
Do you not lube the pads(or atleast the ears) the ride in the carrier? I was taught to lube that area and the back of the pad. But I also failed a my brake job on my Mkv somehow. I will investigate that further next week.(tagged you in the r32 group in the post)
Did you remember to lubricate the polyurethane bushings every so often? Delrin is always a good choice too!
First socket set I ever bought was a craftmen socket set still have 40 plus years later
I grease all contact points for pad to carrier. Am I wrong?
What brand and model are those brake discs?
Sorry for reviving an old thread. I've watched this last year. I brought some mk4 r32 brake set up to go onto a project mk4 1.8t build......well things have changed.....my question to you is. Can I use these (mk4 r32 brakes) on a mk6 platform. What would I need to do to make them work. Does anyone have any ideas??
Excellent again! I have a 2016 GTI, and wish I could have gotten one with the Performance Package, but still really enjoy mine!
I do however want improved brakes ... do you have any specific ideas? I tried to find some VW GTI performance pack and Golf R brake "take-offs" to install but no luck so far.
A friend suggested "Power Stop K7059" kit... but I have no experience if its really better than stock.
When you did your research, did you rely upon a test or study that pointed you to these brakes? :-)
What would recommend?
Thank you!
Charles great job as usual!! 👍🏼 will you be doing a DIY for the rear control arm bushings??
Charles how do you feel about the H&R Springs? Complaint? When they finally settled, did the Rear appear close to stock?
Love them. Great balance of firm but not harsh. I haven’t measured the ride height in a while. Lol it would look better lower but performs amazing.
Wow. Thanks for replying so quick. 🏁
The wheel hanger comes with the spare wheel tool kit from the factory,only is made out of plastic
Yes more mods!
Love the R32!
I love your videos. You've grown on me.
Awe. Thank you
Y r there no wheel studs and I've never seen that wheel hanger thing he's talkin about. Do the studs come off with the nuts
Love ya work . Maybe suggest to use a wire brush on a drill to internally clean the rust and debris from inside the brake pistons , then coat with a smear of high temp grease to inhibit oxidation . cheers
What Gloc compound did you go with? I have R10/R8 on my Miata and they feel amazing.
What music is that, starts at 7:44 ?
I’m totally binging on humble maniac videos tonight. 😜
I have used on my 2009 CC on the break fluid change Ate Blue and done drivers front first,front passenger moved to the rear passenger and then drivers rear.
What's your take on this,is it wrong
or ok
Greetings
Michael
I once forgot to torque the bolts on a caliper carrier...then lost one at speed on the highway. Good times
Yikes
I didn't see you lubricate anything, nor clean the calipers. Why not? I have ECS Tuning slotted roters and RedStuff pads.
Did you watch? I cleaned or inspected just about everything. Keep in mind these also had a deep clean about a year ago.
The good thing about being well versed in the VW "universe" is that you can pimp your ride without breaking it. :)
Haha you’re not wrong
Good video! - I've personally never rated poly bushes. They just don't last, usually 20k miles and they split, crack or just shrink....i've always seen them as a bit of a con vs OE rubber bushes. They get people with their pretty bright colors, and many say they feel so much better - and yes they can stiffen things up (at the cost of longevity) but the majority of improvement in feel is purely from replacing a a worn out factory bush with something new.
could not agree more
I’ve had tons of poly bushings and this is the first issue I’ve ever had. I have a bunch of their other bushings and they are great.
Like the brake hone idea and I love Carbotech pads on my MKIV 1.8t GLS.
Interesting that the r32 came with a two piston caliber setup and the newer Golf R has the everyday one caliber piston setup. I love VW , but they need to get a BBK for their hot hatches.
It might have something to do with curb weight and there being more weight on the front of the R32 vs Golf R.
Them Durango pads 👌🏻
Was anyone else waiting for the "now we apply just s little bit of medium strength thread locker"?
...
Wrong channel? Lol, love the content Charles, keep it up!
Edit: first heart on UA-cam and it's from *the* HumbleMechanic, appreciated!
Gun Toting Stylist I usually use soapy water instead.
Just a little soapy wooder
😂😂😂
the brake rotors, are they directional?
These are, most are not
How's the gearwrench ratchet?
So far I dig it! Still testing it out.
@@HumbleMechanic Keep us posted.
My favourite sound at 15:37.
So i have a mk2 Audi TT and from what i believe iy's basically a mk5 gti for the most part. So my brakes squeel a lot when cold with OEM pads afte a whole new rotor and pad instalation and it's been like 3 months after intsall anything I should check? I did have a loose caliper and it wore my one pad scew but i'm hearing squeel from more than one rotor.
any suggestions?
You might be able to get someone with a mill to resurface the brake disc.
Why not install stud kit?
I like the bolts. Lol.
While I agree studs beat bolts (WTF Europe?!) the stud conversion kits are sketchy to me.
Bolts are easy, plus the different lengths for steel versus alloy rims are hard to do in a stud form, either they stick out far, or are too short depending on the wheel type. Not much difference from each other, just that bolts at least have the wearing part easier to change, plus broken ones are, because the tension is now off them, are easy to remove, provided you have not left them on for ages to rust fast. Studs on the other hand are a PITA to change, especially when you have no clearance behind to remove them, and have to take a hub apart to do so. Smaller heads as well on them, so smaller diameter possible on the wheel boss, while still having enough strength and fatigue life to last.
SeanBZA Nope, I’ll take all the supposed drawbacks to studs just so I don’t have to mess with changing a tire on the side of the road on a car with bolts. I work on to many cars.
And you are wrong about the wearing parts being easily replaced, the threaded holes in the flange are wear points and if someone cross threads a bolt or threads on a damaged bolt you are now replacing that hub and likely bearing. And since you are almost certainly dealing with a European car you are paying more.
@@DrewLSsix Funny enough where I am much cheaper buying VW parts than buying GM spares. Even though GM parts are mostly Daewoo, they are very much more expensive, as they are sold as if they are US made. VW hub assembly is under $40 here from a reliable second source, and includes every part.
Good thing about GM is that here you just buy the equivalent Daewoo part, either genuine or pattern, and avoid what is left of the GM network, but always a week or two wait for parts is common.
Is that silaramic grease