Thanks Nate! I am redoing my kitchen and want my Hauslane Range Hood ducted outside. My contractor said the duct could only go through the cabinet and out the roof for a couple of thousand bucks. I am a mechanically inclined woman, so I did it myself after watching your YT video. Yeah!
Absolutely great. I need to install a bathroom vent through a brick wall. Probably circular. Extra challenge compared to Nate's job is getting switched 120V to the vent inside the wall. But less of a challenge because I only have drywall and brick; no cinderblock.
Great video. An extra step i took....where the microwave damper meets the vent, if you can reach in from outside, I used an extended/angled nozzle for my caulk gun and put a bead of metal silicon around the perimeter of the microwave damper this way when I pushed the vent in I got a nice seal.
I'll bet that when we go to do this at my friend's house there will be a stud smack dab in the middle... It's so sad to see how many houses don't have vented ranges, especially since cooking gas has been shown to have nanoparticles and all kinds of things you wouldn't want to breathe. They need to make unvented ranges non-code compliant because of the health risks. In some setups only the back burners are covered by the hood, so most setups leave a lot to be desired, like a telescoping range hood could solve it...
Here are links to some of the tools and hardware that I used: Milwaukee equivalent to the Porter Cable Hammer Drill: amzn.to/3cJ9OKZ Oscillating multi-tool: amzn.to/3wtB8EM Speed Square: amzn.to/3mDQ3dE 3-1/4" x 10" Wall vent: amzn.to/3gK5v3Z 3-1/4" x 10" Duct: amzn.to/3gLal18 Wiss Snips: amzn.to/3JNJOPF Aluminum Duct Tape: amzn.to/42ikAjx Bosch Laser Measuring Device: amzn.to/3sUTA8q Hyde Caulk Tool: amzn.to/3BocF5X Caulk Gun: amzn.to/38uvXtP
Good suggestion. The duct tape is really just intended to seal between the two to prevent leakage. In this case, there is nowhere for the duct to go if the tape fails.
In this case, I had the wiring done before I installed the cabinets, so I knew where it was. If that’s not the case for you, look at where your wiring would logically based on where fixtures, outlets, and switches are located, it’s most likely (not guaranteed) to be there. You can also cut drywall out before drilling through the block and brick to check for wiring behind the drywall.
great video! thank you! I am doing the same thing. I am wondering how at the end do you connect and tape range hood to the duck? I don't have much room there... not sure what to do or how to finish it. can you please give advice? or you just slide it there kinda?
I just slid the duct stub on the microwave into the wall duct. The duct stub is designed to fit inside and extend into the standard duct because you don’t have access to tape it. Good luck with your install and feel free to ask more questions. Thanks for watching!
im getting ready to do a similar install so appreciate the vid. kind of worried about the outside flange, thinking that over time the caulk could dry and fail so wondering if resetting the flange a bit into the brick or a drip edge channel around. did you use caulk or silicone?
I used a clear outdoor caulk for windows and doors, no issues so far. I don’t remember for sure, but it may have been silicone based. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching!
There isn’t really a way to seal it because you don’t have access. The vent outlet on the microwave fits inside of the duct, and because it is blowing out, there will be very little leakage as long as you don’t have any major restrictions in the duct (like a very long run with lots of elbows).
@@NateFixesIt Thank you for the quick reply! Maybe it's in the video, but I assume the duct end is 3.25x10" and the microwave exhaust adapter can fit into that? It's too bad there isn't a more satisfying solution like a rubber gasket or something... Seems with ducting, sealing is always a big deal and this is an odd exception, especially considering grease and crap would inevitably leak around the interface. And mounting to the backside of the microwave is slicker but trickier than sending it through the top and into a cabinet where you could seal the opening better but then you have ugly ducting in your cabinet. Again, thanks for the reply.
@@poneil yes, the duct is 3.25”x 10”, and the microwave outlet is a little smaller than that. It would be nice to have a way to seal it. Let me know if you come up with something.
Hi Is your exhaust next to a window?/door?I believe it has to be a certain distance to be up to code? Do you know the rule in your area? I believe it's 3 feet in my area
Cool thanks. I have the vent duct and outside vent installed and I spray foamed around the inside duct and won't be able to finish till the weekend and then thought if the stub went around the duct I would have to scrape out all that foam, so I'm glad it goes in the inside
Not sure. The project took me about half a day and ~$50 in material, and I already had the tools. I would guess at least $500 dollars. Ask for their estimate to specify hours, hourly rate, and material. That will give you the best information to judge cost.
I’m not a contractor for hire, I just do projects for myself. If you are looking for a contractor in your area, I suggest joining some Facebook communities in your area, and then ask for recommendations.
![How To Vent Your Microwave Outside [Over The Range Style]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RaBGgKc3-W0/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Vent Your Microwave Outside [Over The Range Style]](/img/tr.png)
Thanks Nate! I am redoing my kitchen and want my Hauslane Range Hood ducted outside. My contractor said the duct could only go through the cabinet and out the roof for a couple of thousand bucks. I am a mechanically inclined woman, so I did it myself after watching your YT video. Yeah!
Glad I could help! Great work!
Nate, nice little project. I like that you had a good approach to the project and not just winging it. Keep it up.
Thank you!
Absolutely great. I need to install a bathroom vent through a brick wall. Probably circular. Extra challenge compared to Nate's job is getting switched 120V to the vent inside the wall. But less of a challenge because I only have drywall and brick; no cinderblock.
Good luck with your project! Thanks for watching!
Great video! Thank you. This gives me confidence to do our own vent.
Good luck with your vent!
Thanks for doing this video! I have to do this very job, except with vinyl siding on the outside of my block wall. Fun times ahead!
Good luck! It was a dusty job, but done in half a day!
Hi, thanks for the tutorial. You convinced me to hire someone. I don’t want to deal with the block. Nice work though 👍
Glad that I could help you make an informed decision. Thank for watching!
Great video. An extra step i took....where the microwave damper meets the vent, if you can reach in from outside, I used an extended/angled nozzle for my caulk gun and put a bead of metal silicon around the perimeter of the microwave damper this way when I pushed the vent in I got a nice seal.
Great idea!
Great video. The only one negative, you should have used foil duct tape like used on HVAC systems.
Good suggestion, thanks!
Duct tape is great - but never use it on ducts. Or ducks
I agree, duct tape gets old and brittle. Use the hvac foil tape.
I'll bet that when we go to do this at my friend's house there will be a stud smack dab in the middle... It's so sad to see how many houses don't have vented ranges, especially since cooking gas has been shown to have nanoparticles and all kinds of things you wouldn't want to breathe. They need to make unvented ranges non-code compliant because of the health risks. In some setups only the back burners are covered by the hood, so most setups leave a lot to be desired, like a telescoping range hood could solve it...
Good luck with your install, I agree that all stoves should vent to the outside.
Here are links to some of the tools and hardware that I used:
Milwaukee equivalent to the Porter Cable Hammer Drill: amzn.to/3cJ9OKZ
Oscillating multi-tool: amzn.to/3wtB8EM
Speed Square: amzn.to/3mDQ3dE
3-1/4" x 10" Wall vent: amzn.to/3gK5v3Z
3-1/4" x 10" Duct: amzn.to/3gLal18
Wiss Snips: amzn.to/3JNJOPF
Aluminum Duct Tape: amzn.to/42ikAjx
Bosch Laser Measuring Device: amzn.to/3sUTA8q
Hyde Caulk Tool: amzn.to/3BocF5X
Caulk Gun: amzn.to/38uvXtP
Can I do this for a range hood
Same general process, just follow the location and sizing that come with your hood.
Great video. Very helpful
Thanks for watching !
Good video, I'm think the duct tape will fail after awhile. Best to use self tap screws..
Good suggestion. The duct tape is really just intended to seal between the two to prevent leakage. In this case, there is nowhere for the duct to go if the tape fails.
Ho did you avoid electrical wires?
In this case, I had the wiring done before I installed the cabinets, so I knew where it was. If that’s not the case for you, look at where your wiring would logically based on where fixtures, outlets, and switches are located, it’s most likely (not guaranteed) to be there. You can also cut drywall out before drilling through the block and brick to check for wiring behind the drywall.
What kind of screws did you use to affix the vent in the exterior brick wall?
I used concrete screws like these:
amzn.to/3QACERN
Does the cold or hot air from outdoors seep in through this vent?
I’ve never noticed it. There is a damper on the outer wall vent and a second on the microwave. Both close automatically when not in use.
great video! thank you! I am doing the same thing. I am wondering how at the end do you connect and tape range hood to the duck? I don't have much room there... not sure what to do or how to finish it. can you please give advice? or you just slide it there kinda?
I just slid the duct stub on the microwave into the wall duct. The duct stub is designed to fit inside and extend into the standard duct because you don’t have access to tape it. Good luck with your install and feel free to ask more questions. Thanks for watching!
im getting ready to do a similar install so appreciate the vid. kind of worried about the outside flange, thinking that over time the caulk could dry and fail so wondering if resetting the flange a bit into the brick or a drip edge channel around. did you use caulk or silicone?
I used a clear outdoor caulk for windows and doors, no issues so far. I don’t remember for sure, but it may have been silicone based. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching!
Use urethane caulk like Quad clear sealant. That compound will last 50 years.@@NateFixesIt
@@dancoleman1269great tip
How do you then seal the microwave side exhaust adapter to the start of the vent pipe?
There isn’t really a way to seal it because you don’t have access. The vent outlet on the microwave fits inside of the duct, and because it is blowing out, there will be very little leakage as long as you don’t have any major restrictions in the duct (like a very long run with lots of elbows).
@@NateFixesIt Thank you for the quick reply! Maybe it's in the video, but I assume the duct end is 3.25x10" and the microwave exhaust adapter can fit into that? It's too bad there isn't a more satisfying solution like a rubber gasket or something... Seems with ducting, sealing is always a big deal and this is an odd exception, especially considering grease and crap would inevitably leak around the interface. And mounting to the backside of the microwave is slicker but trickier than sending it through the top and into a cabinet where you could seal the opening better but then you have ugly ducting in your cabinet. Again, thanks for the reply.
@@poneil yes, the duct is 3.25”x 10”, and the microwave outlet is a little smaller than that. It would be nice to have a way to seal it. Let me know if you come up with something.
Man your house is built like a bunker. I've never seen walls that thick!
I know! Over a foot thick! Thanks for watching.
So am i to assume that its a standard size vent regardless off what brand microwave or range hood u use?
Should all be the same, but check the owners manual to be sure. Thanks for watching!
Hi Is your exhaust next to a window?/door?I believe it has to be a certain distance to be up to code? Do you know the rule in your area? I believe it's 3 feet in my area
The distance varies by locality. Some do require 3 ft.
so the duct that you installed in the wall , does that fit into or over the vent hood stub out?
The vent hood stub goes inside of the duct in the wall.
Cool thanks. I have the vent duct and outside vent installed and I spray foamed around the inside duct and won't be able to finish till the weekend and then thought if the stub went around the duct I would have to scrape out all that foam, so I'm glad it goes in the inside
@@frankcatrini4816 thanks for watching and good luck finishing up your project!
Too technical for me to take it up myself… If I was to get a professional to do it what do you think it will cost?
Not sure. The project took me about half a day and ~$50 in material, and I already had the tools. I would guess at least $500 dollars. Ask for their estimate to specify hours, hourly rate, and material. That will give you the best information to judge cost.
How long did it take to do the entire install job?
I finished in a day, not working all day. I don’t remember exactly because it was a few years ago, but guessing that it was around 4 hours.
Thank you.@@NateFixesIt
@@marklockhart5347 no problem, good luck with your project!
Hi, Where are you? i've been trying to find someone to do this for me. Whats the best way to find someone to do it?
I’m not a contractor for hire, I just do projects for myself. If you are looking for a contractor in your area, I suggest joining some Facebook communities in your area, and then ask for recommendations.
Yes the duct tape will surely dry out. Foil tape is the answer
By any chance did you used to be in the nuclear industry?
I have been! Could you tell from my containment drape?