Hmm i cant decide what i am going to get. Actually i got a dmt fine and x-fine. I am surely happy about it, and a leather strop with grey paste. The results are good on my Zwilling. But i guess it could be better so i want to use my finish on a 8000er. But cant decide if i buy a dmt 8000 oder ceramic naniwa 8000. What you think?
After about 4 or 5 years of sharpening with a 1200 grit mini diamond stone from dmt it still shows absolutely no wear, of course I baby my stones with pressure. Doesnt really take any pressure at all.
That's awesome! I have a tendency to press hard on the stones, but I am actively working against that--and it's getting better. I would certainly hope to get at least 5 years out of mine. Thanks!
I use water with dawn dish soap as lube/plate cleaner, and I get near mirror edges off of the extra fine 1200, once the plates get broken it, they can be insanely nice to sharpen with.
The HandToolery Over a year with two different plates and no issues, this might be a problem over time, but I haven't even notice warping much less rust. Still cuts clean and fast better than the day I got it, at least in terms of polish.
The HandToolery I just got a extra extra fine diafold sized plate sharpener from dmt and used water and dawn to get hair whittling mirror finished edges. It is non-continuos and small but is easily now my favorite thing to sharpen with.
@@TheHandToolery I’ve had minor rust a couple times, but now I pat them dry with a cloth. FYI, I once saw a tutorial by a sharpening guru who said to use an 8:1 water to dish soap ratio. He didn’t get too into it, but I think it has to do with the viscosity of the fluid and the microns thick it is and how it settles into the valleys between the “grits”
I just jumped in those stone too... I got an extra coarse, fine and extra extra fine... now that I look at it, I think I should get the grits closer together, should I replace the extra coarse by a coarse? Ive tried it and the extra coarse leaves scratches that are very hard to remove.
I only use my extra course for very full knives or hatchets/axes. Course is usually too aggressive for most knives. Fine is 600 grit, extra fine is 1200 and I just bought a medium extra fine, it’s 4000. I haven’t gotten it yet. I have lots of whet stones in the 1000 to 8000 range but I like the speed and convenance of the diamond plates sometimes.
These scratches on the stone don't affect anything. Any diamond stone needs a break-in time, so its top coat wears off and exposes diamonds. Until that there will be deep scratches. It's almost not noticeable on coarser stones, since that coat's grit is comparatively negligible, but it's very apparent on an extra-extra fine stone. Once broken in, a stone will give an edge that shaves w\o stropping and scratching will be minimal. Also any diamond stone will always scratch, but too much pressure tends to produce deeper scratches, so try less pressure and higher frequency. Oily lubricants seem to reduce scratches as well.
Makes me wonder if using some type of oil might be conducive then when using the DMT diamond stones despite their advice to only use dry or with water... someone else suggested using honing oil. Sounds like you do, would be interested to hear what type/brand/otherwise you use...
I recently got the same stones, well the same setup as you and I was wondering what was the problem you had with the stone you sent back. The reason is I think my extra fine stone is underperforming. Any feedback you can give me will be greatly appreciated.
The extra-extra fine I have now cuts slowly for sure, but it does make a difference. It DOES NOT put a polished edge on it. But, the scratches are so superficial that stropping is straightforward, and it leaves the edge amazingly sharp. The problem was that after only a few uses, there was a "trench" being worn into the stone's metal base that you could feel with your finger, and it wasn't cutting/sharpening that section. It was certainly a defect in the metal, not the diamond grit. I sent it back after talking to them, and they replaced it. But, they did have to "evaluate" it by having me describe the problems first. I had to kind of convince them that it was defective, not like they just said, "ok" we trust you.
@@TheHandToolery I’m kind of second guessing getting this stone. If quality control is an issue I don’t know if it’s worth the money for someone new to freehand sharpening. I wouldn’t know the difference truth be told. But, I do believe in buying quality products... buy once cry once. I’d only be using these mainly for touching up my EDC flipper knives and I might look at something cheaper and a little smaller. Using the Smith’s 4” portable diamond combination stone which is hard to learn on because you can’t set the handle flat. I don’t want to have to deal with flattening out a water stone so I think diamond stones would be the better choice. I would definitely get the smaller one and I like that you can set these flat and they provide a good base. I mainly want something that will last that doesn’t require maintenance other than washing the stone after. I’m not sure if I should get the course/fine or the fine/extra-fine... for maintaining an edge the extra fine would probably be sufficient however there might be a time when I have to re-profile an edge or fix a chip. I think D2 steel would be the highest quality steel I would be working with... that definitely needs a diamond stone as I’ve heard they can be tough to sharpen.
I have the same issue with the extra fine stone 4x10 allot of marks and scratches, make me think that is already been used and don’t know what to do should I return it or keep it
When I first got the extra extra fine stone for my alinger I was sort of furious that it was leaving deep gouges in the metal. With the benefit of the doubt I continued to use it just because it did way better then just the green 9ų on the finished product. Only after about 3 months worth of sharpening I thought I wore out all the diamonds it literally feels like glass but it is SOOOOO fine and I dont know what I'd do without it. Best 30$ I've spent in a while and thinking about spending the 80 for this one.
Just found this video Andrew, curious, if you were to do it again would you get an extra extra fine DMT stone again? I'm looking at the 8" Extra Extra fine for my current 3 diamond stone lineup, I have a combo cheap 3000/8000 grit stone from Amazon, diamond paste from DMT for a strop, and green compound for a strop. Just want my tools to be razor sharp, as simply as possible!
Hey!! I think I would. I use it quite a bit to re-dress the edges. A lot of times, I touch up the edges by stropping only. Then, after I do that a few times, I take it back to the extra extra fine to bring it all back to a more refined edge and then strop. Every once in a while, I got through all grits, course to extra extra fine to re-establish the bevel. So, I'd say it's a real benefit if you can swing it. If not, I got by just fine without it!
@@TheHandToolery thanks for the response. I'm thinking I'm going to get it and it will be a better fit along side my other DMT stones than a Shapton stone would be. I use a strop too, I think I would.prefer the strop finish over a whetstone finish
@@rickhickman2730 I was very interested in the Shapton, but I found a good deal on the Extra Extra fine. I always recommending checking out Zoro.com for things, especially if you are going to spend $150. They often have 20% $150. Today or yesterday even!
Do you not normally wet your stones? Just curious because I usually see people use some kind of lubricant so I always have. And if you don't, do you find it better or faster without lubricating the stones?
Are you saying the simple green can corrode the diamond stone? i just got some DMT stones and was going to use a 50/50 solution of simple green and water. I saw that being used in another sharpening video. I also have some cutting fluid from a Trend diamond stone I have. I wonder if thats a better option. Now I am all confused LOL. Hoping someone can clear this up because DMT does recommend just water.
U got to use a little soapy water if u want to shine up your edge it takes a little lubricant. Your not going to be able to run dry on any diamond stone and expect it to look like u just come off the naniwa chosera 10k or something equivalent
which brand of dmt stones are these... i ask because i want to get some, but if i can buy the $50 each or do i need the $200 each to get those results?
this is old I know but you sould know that all diamond plates should be "broken" before using in the actual tools Because those scratches are exactly the part of the diamonds that are not well embed deep into the plate.
After everything you went through to get that plane blade sharp......you just clunked it into the top of your bench..... It's better to either set your plane down on something to keep the blade away from everything or get in the habit on laying the plane on it's side........ Or, just don't worry about it and wonder where the nicks came from.
I had the exact same issue with my extra fine, they took 8 weeks but sent me the same consolation stones too, kinda cool, but I’m starting to have the same issue again with the stone
@@TheHandToolery yes, I had to call in after 8 weeks, but they did come through after all, which made me feel alright about it. I Actually learned to use An Arkansas stone for my final honing in the interim and realized I liked it better anyway so, it was a win all in all.
@@TheHandToolery if you use your dmt set up, grab a black Arkansas for an extra level of sharp after if you wanna see how they work, the 8x3 stone is a bit pricy though, that’s the only downfall
I have the XX Fine DMT stone. It should break in with some use. Mine looked the same as yours when new. I bought an Eza Lap stone once and wanted to return it. It it took months and and a lot of hounding to get a replacement stone. They did not send any goodies.
I guess so I have 4 of them and have had 2 of the EE fines and they all have been ok without scratches. I am getting ready to get a new Fine as it was the first one I got from them and it is worn out after 3 years of use. It was one of two stones I used to use at first so it got a lot of use.
I bought a second hand eef off ebay. It would leave a odd pattern and a burr on one side but not the other. Chalked it up to something off Ebay. Last week I was flatening and lapping a Spyderco ceramic Duckfoot. I put it on this plate and it started leaving a black almost waxy deposit on my Spyderco. I take the plate and wash it with WD40. Some goo comes off but can tell there is more. Get some Goof Off and it really starts cleaning it up. Finally get some lacquer thinner and wipe it till the rags come clean. I dont know what DMT used on this face, but now you can tell easily which is the diamond side. And it will pull a burr all along the stone. I have 2 other DMT plates and have had no other problem. Still breaking in this eef now it is working. Wish I knew if it was DMT or the previous owner who jacked it up and what they used.
I wouldn’t go above the “coarse” (blue 325 grit) it’s an incredible stone. All the finer grits from DMT I’ve found to be problematic, they can leave a nice shiny finish but nothing nearly as keen a cutting edge as that DMT coarse
That works, of course, but you do have to have a worn out stone. You can find one used I’m sure, otherwise you’d have to wait years until it wears wears out!
Just watched this video. I noticed you didn't use any lubricant to temove the swarf(very fine metal shavings). It sounds like the stone got loaded up from sharpening due to no lubrcant. Might I suggest using just a dab of lubricant to help out. As for other people saying it takes a while to break in a diamond stone I say no. The diamond is the hardest substance known to man and will cut the much softer blade steel like butter till you load it up with swarf (very fine metal shavings). Anyone who has done any sharpening knows not to use a stone right out of the box and to use some sort of lubricant to remove the very fine shavings.
Hi! The instructions say use water or use them dry. I do not want to use water because of the mess and the potential for rust. I know about swarf and you are probably right about buildup, but also the company says that there is a break in period. I know you have experience but I’m just telling you what DMT said to me or what the instructions say.
I like the box you set your stones in, much better than the little clamp and towel I've been using. I'm going to have to build myself one as well.
Thanks! I can’t remember where I first saw it, but wood by wright probably has a video on it.
Yeah, I've had good luck with dmt products, too!
Good video!
Hmm i cant decide what i am going to get. Actually i got a dmt fine and x-fine. I am surely happy about it, and a leather strop with grey paste. The results are good on my Zwilling. But i guess it could be better so i want to use my finish on a 8000er. But cant decide if i buy a dmt 8000 oder ceramic naniwa 8000. What you think?
After about 4 or 5 years of sharpening with a 1200 grit mini diamond stone from dmt it still shows absolutely no wear, of course I baby my stones with pressure. Doesnt really take any pressure at all.
That's awesome! I have a tendency to press hard on the stones, but I am actively working against that--and it's getting better. I would certainly hope to get at least 5 years out of mine. Thanks!
I use water with dawn dish soap as lube/plate cleaner, and I get near mirror edges off of the extra fine 1200, once the plates get broken it, they can be insanely nice to sharpen with.
Cool! I’ve thought about that-do you have rust issues?
The HandToolery Over a year with two different plates and no issues, this might be a problem over time, but I haven't even notice warping much less rust. Still cuts clean and fast better than the day I got it, at least in terms of polish.
Thanks for that! Sorry-didn’t realize you had replied. No notification. Strange!
The HandToolery I just got a extra extra fine diafold sized plate sharpener from dmt and used water and dawn to get hair whittling mirror finished edges. It is non-continuos and small but is easily now my favorite thing to sharpen with.
@@TheHandToolery I’ve had minor rust a couple times, but now I pat them dry with a cloth. FYI, I once saw a tutorial by a sharpening guru who said to use an 8:1 water to dish soap ratio. He didn’t get too into it, but I think it has to do with the viscosity of the fluid and the microns thick it is and how it settles into the valleys between the “grits”
I just jumped in those stone too... I got an extra coarse, fine and extra extra fine... now that I look at it, I think I should get the grits closer together, should I replace the extra coarse by a coarse? Ive tried it and the extra coarse leaves scratches that are very hard to remove.
I only use my extra course for very full knives or hatchets/axes. Course is usually too aggressive for most knives. Fine is 600 grit, extra fine is 1200 and I just bought a medium extra fine, it’s 4000. I haven’t gotten it yet. I have lots of whet stones in the 1000 to 8000 range but I like the speed and convenance of the diamond plates sometimes.
These scratches on the stone don't affect anything. Any diamond stone needs a break-in time, so its top coat wears off and exposes diamonds. Until that there will be deep scratches. It's almost not noticeable on coarser stones, since that coat's grit is comparatively negligible, but it's very apparent on an extra-extra fine stone. Once broken in, a stone will give an edge that shaves w\o stropping and scratching will be minimal. Also any diamond stone will always scratch, but too much pressure tends to produce deeper scratches, so try less pressure and higher frequency. Oily lubricants seem to reduce scratches as well.
Makes me wonder if using some type of oil might be conducive then when using the DMT diamond stones despite their advice to only use dry or with water... someone else suggested using honing oil. Sounds like you do, would be interested to hear what type/brand/otherwise you use...
I recently got the same stones, well the same setup as you and I was wondering what was the problem you had with the stone you sent back. The reason is I think my extra fine stone is underperforming. Any feedback you can give me will be greatly appreciated.
The extra-extra fine I have now cuts slowly for sure, but it does make a difference. It DOES NOT put a polished edge on it. But, the scratches are so superficial that stropping is straightforward, and it leaves the edge amazingly sharp.
The problem was that after only a few uses, there was a "trench" being worn into the stone's metal base that you could feel with your finger, and it wasn't cutting/sharpening that section. It was certainly a defect in the metal, not the diamond grit. I sent it back after talking to them, and they replaced it. But, they did have to "evaluate" it by having me describe the problems first. I had to kind of convince them that it was defective, not like they just said, "ok" we trust you.
@@TheHandToolery I’m kind of second guessing getting this stone. If quality control is an issue I don’t know if it’s worth the money for someone new to freehand sharpening. I wouldn’t know the difference truth be told. But, I do believe in buying quality products... buy once cry once. I’d only be using these mainly for touching up my EDC flipper knives and I might look at something cheaper and a little smaller. Using the Smith’s 4” portable diamond combination stone which is hard to learn on because you can’t set the handle flat. I don’t want to have to deal with flattening out a water stone so I think diamond stones would be the better choice. I would definitely get the smaller one and I like that you can set these flat and they provide a good base. I mainly want something that will last that doesn’t require maintenance other than washing the stone after. I’m not sure if I should get the course/fine or the fine/extra-fine... for maintaining an edge the extra fine would probably be sufficient however there might be a time when I have to re-profile an edge or fix a chip. I think D2 steel would be the highest quality steel I would be working with... that definitely needs a diamond stone as I’ve heard they can be tough to sharpen.
I have the same issue with the extra fine stone 4x10 allot of marks and scratches, make me think that is already been used and don’t know what to do should I return it or keep it
When I first got the extra extra fine stone for my alinger I was sort of furious that it was leaving deep gouges in the metal. With the benefit of the doubt I continued to use it just because it did way better then just the green 9ų on the finished product. Only after about 3 months worth of sharpening I thought I wore out all the diamonds it literally feels like glass but it is SOOOOO fine and I dont know what I'd do without it. Best 30$ I've spent in a while and thinking about spending the 80 for this one.
It does take a while to break in some of these stones, but they do eventually break in! Glad yours turned out so well.
Is it still working well or has ran out ?
@@Perspari still going strong. Sorta feels glassy now but it still does provide a strong cut. I can say it is fully broken in though
@@Emtrthree Thanks for the reply, I will go ahead and buy one thanks to your video + comment ;)
@@Perspari no problem. Just don't forget that the first like 40 sharpenings will be super coarse.
Just found this video Andrew, curious, if you were to do it again would you get an extra extra fine DMT stone again? I'm looking at the 8" Extra Extra fine for my current 3 diamond stone lineup, I have a combo cheap 3000/8000 grit stone from Amazon, diamond paste from DMT for a strop, and green compound for a strop. Just want my tools to be razor sharp, as simply as possible!
Hey!! I think I would. I use it quite a bit to re-dress the edges. A lot of times, I touch up the edges by stropping only. Then, after I do that a few times, I take it back to the extra extra fine to bring it all back to a more refined edge and then strop. Every once in a while, I got through all grits, course to extra extra fine to re-establish the bevel. So, I'd say it's a real benefit if you can swing it. If not, I got by just fine without it!
@@TheHandToolery thanks for the response. I'm thinking I'm going to get it and it will be a better fit along side my other DMT stones than a Shapton stone would be. I use a strop too, I think I would.prefer the strop finish over a whetstone finish
@@rickhickman2730 I was very interested in the Shapton, but I found a good deal on the Extra Extra fine. I always recommending checking out Zoro.com for things, especially if you are going to spend $150. They often have 20% $150. Today or yesterday even!
Do you not normally wet your stones? Just curious because I usually see people use some kind of lubricant so I always have. And if you don't, do you find it better or faster without lubricating the stones?
I'll give it a try. Thanks a lot!
Are you saying the simple green can corrode the diamond stone? i just got some DMT stones and was going to use a 50/50 solution of simple green and water. I saw that being used in another sharpening video. I also have some cutting fluid from a Trend diamond stone I have. I wonder if thats a better option. Now I am all confused LOL. Hoping someone can clear this up because DMT does recommend just water.
I use this: www.woodcraft.com/products/honerite-gold-250-ml?sku=152586 It seems to work great.
For some reason your reply is not showing up for me to reply to. That is the same stuff that is in the link you can get it from Rob as well.
U got to use a little soapy water if u want to shine up your edge it takes a little lubricant. Your not going to be able to run dry on any diamond stone and expect it to look like u just come off the naniwa chosera 10k or something equivalent
which brand of dmt stones are these... i ask because i want to get some, but if i can buy the $50 each or do i need the $200 each to get those results?
I have course, medium and extra fine. 8 inch by 3”, I think.
this is old I know but you sould know that all diamond plates should be "broken" before using in the actual tools
Because those scratches are exactly the part of the diamonds that are not well embed deep into the plate.
After everything you went through to get that plane blade sharp......you just clunked it into the top of your bench.....
It's better to either set your plane down on something to keep the blade away from everything or get in the habit on laying the plane on it's side........
Or, just don't worry about it and wonder where the nicks came from.
Never had a nick from doing this. The bench is made of southern yellow pine and is much softer than the plane iron.
I had the exact same issue with my extra fine, they took 8 weeks but sent me the same consolation stones too, kinda cool, but I’m starting to have the same issue again with the stone
Oh no! Mine has been fine, but that really stinks!
For a left company as they are, the return process was a bit cumbersome, right?
@@TheHandToolery yes, I had to call in after 8 weeks, but they did come through after all, which made me feel alright about it. I Actually learned to use An Arkansas stone for my final honing in the interim and realized I liked it better anyway so, it was a win all in all.
Oh nice! I’m curious about those!
@@TheHandToolery if you use your dmt set up, grab a black Arkansas for an extra level of sharp after if you wanna see how they work, the 8x3 stone is a bit pricy though, that’s the only downfall
I have the XX Fine DMT stone. It should break in with some use. Mine looked the same as yours when new.
I bought an Eza Lap stone once and wanted to return it. It it took months and and a lot of hounding to get a replacement stone. They did not send any goodies.
I use Dialux Gris and Vornex and I highly recommend them. Better than anything I've used so far and they're pretty cheap.
Thanks for the recommendation!
None of my DMTs had those marks on them they were all evenly coated and uniform on the surface.
I guess so I have 4 of them and have had 2 of the EE fines and they all have been ok without scratches. I am getting ready to get a new Fine as it was the first one I got from them and it is worn out after 3 years of use. It was one of two stones I used to use at first so it got a lot of use.
I bought a second hand eef off ebay. It would leave a odd pattern and a burr on one side but not the other. Chalked it up to something off Ebay. Last week I was flatening and lapping a Spyderco ceramic Duckfoot. I put it on this plate and it started leaving a black almost waxy deposit on my Spyderco. I take the plate and wash it with WD40. Some goo comes off but can tell there is more. Get some Goof Off and it really starts cleaning it up. Finally get some lacquer thinner and wipe it till the rags come clean. I dont know what DMT used on this face, but now you can tell easily which is the diamond side. And it will pull a burr all along the stone.
I have 2 other DMT plates and have had no other problem. Still breaking in this eef now it is working. Wish I knew if it was DMT or the previous owner who jacked it up and what they used.
Those free things they sent you I paid $50 for!
The HandToolery
Yessir!
I wouldn’t go above the “coarse” (blue 325 grit) it’s an incredible stone. All the finer grits from DMT I’ve found to be problematic, they can leave a nice shiny finish but nothing nearly as keen a cutting edge as that DMT coarse
Interesting! I always go to a strop. Never got a mirror finish with my diamond stones.
Quero que me embies piedra diamantada DMT DIA SHARP
Rather than buy an extra-extra fine might make more sense use a coarser plate that's wearing out.
That works, of course, but you do have to have a worn out stone. You can find one used I’m sure, otherwise you’d have to wait years until it wears wears out!
Just watched this video. I noticed you didn't use any lubricant to temove the swarf(very fine metal shavings). It sounds like the stone got loaded up from sharpening due to no lubrcant. Might I suggest using just a dab of lubricant to help out. As for other people saying it takes a while to break in a diamond stone I say no. The diamond is the hardest substance known to man and will cut the much softer blade steel like butter till you load it up with swarf (very fine metal shavings). Anyone who has done any sharpening knows not to use a stone right out of the box and to use some sort of lubricant to remove the very fine shavings.
Hi! The instructions say use water or use them dry. I do not want to use water because of the mess and the potential for rust. I know about swarf and you are probably right about buildup, but also the company says that there is a break in period. I know you have experience but I’m just telling you what DMT said to me or what the instructions say.
Why you shouldn't buy ultra-fine diamond stones
ua-cam.com/video/re2EwwNcufo/v-deo.html
not the dmt diamond I was looking for
I’m not sure what you mean.