Cutting a Traditional Pegged Mortise and Tenon Joint - FastenMaster PROStar PROTips

Поділитися
Вставка
  • Опубліковано 11 сер 2015
  • FastenMaster PROStar, Brad Morse of Uncarved Block demonstrates cutting a traditional pegged mortise and tenon joint.
    Often used in timber framing, this technique can be used with more traditional carpentry tools in building gates or landscape structures like a pergola.
  • Навчання та стиль

КОМЕНТАРІ • 88

  • @bondking501
    @bondking501 8 років тому +6

    Thank you for the tutorial. I have read every timber framing book I can get my hands on. Hopefully I will build a home with these methods soon.

  • @Huntfitter
    @Huntfitter 8 років тому +9

    I'm a novice just starting out..This was a great, thorough tutorial. I'd love to see more!

  • @charlesthomas9294
    @charlesthomas9294 3 роки тому +2

    Really enjoyed this. It was a great combination of traditional methods and modern tools.

  • @piggybladder
    @piggybladder 7 років тому +5

    Bravo. I love watching timber framers at work. It looks kinda crude coz of the huge clunking tools you guys use but it's sooo skilful to get the quality results. I'm quite intimidated watching you at work!

  • @whirled_peas
    @whirled_peas 5 років тому +7

    A nice trick I've seen for drilling your pegs or mortices square to the timber is to use a mirror with a hole in the middle situated around your drilling area. The mirror makes it abundantly clear if you're not drilling square.

  • @trcmf
    @trcmf 6 років тому +5

    Nice Japanese chisel. It looks rather old. Love it!!

  • @trouts4444
    @trouts4444 5 років тому +2

    Very nice woodworking and also the presentation.

  • @windrago
    @windrago 4 роки тому +1

    love it and wonderfully explained!

  • @all4180
    @all4180 6 років тому +2

    Great video, very clear!

  • @jmyers9853
    @jmyers9853 2 роки тому

    that speedbit sure made things go faster, never thought of that

  • @capefear3297
    @capefear3297 6 років тому +6

    Searched this subject to begin timber frame project. Excellent how to M&T without a chain mortise. Thanks. Have subscribed.

    • @mrjjman2010
      @mrjjman2010 4 роки тому +1

      There are also antique beam drills that are essentially a mobile drill press setup that you turn by hand, uses and auger bit like the one in this video. I also have seen people retrofit a power drill with an auger bit onto the antique beam drill setup.

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 3 роки тому

      @@mrjjman2010 They're great tools to use. I actually prefer using one over a drill. They're generically called boring machines.

  • @heyimamaker
    @heyimamaker 4 роки тому +2

    Nice and clear, that was enjoyable to watch :)

  • @uiop545
    @uiop545 4 роки тому +1

    many thanks, excellent tutorial.

  • @philb8654
    @philb8654 7 років тому +2

    Thanks for the tutorial

  • @user-my9yn4yn6y
    @user-my9yn4yn6y 3 місяці тому

    I always drill the hole slightly offset after drilling through the mortise so that it pulls together super tight as you hammer it in

  • @Brinaweenahwoo
    @Brinaweenahwoo 8 років тому +1

    Great tutorial!

  • @GeorgeMcConnell-nq3vd
    @GeorgeMcConnell-nq3vd 8 місяців тому

    I've seen where the hole in the tenon is slightly offset so when the peg is driven in it pulls the tenon into the mortise. This helps with the wood shrinking in cold dry weather.

  • @edkhoshaba170
    @edkhoshaba170 3 роки тому +1

    Good job

  • @SethsProject
    @SethsProject 7 років тому +5

    Those chisels are gorgeous! I have to ask.... Where did you get them?

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 7 років тому +2

      The big chisel is a Barr, and the Japanese chisels are by Tasai (atsu-nomi). They're both available from different places.

    • @andreicharpentierquesada4530
      @andreicharpentierquesada4530 6 років тому +3

      you may buy them in amazon, just look for japanese chisel aogami(this is the type of steel better know as super blue)

  • @wotcherfaz
    @wotcherfaz 7 років тому +1

    Thanks for making this video. I like the idea of not permanently gluing or screwing joints together. Am I correct thinking it would be ok to use these joints to make a raised platform/loft bed ? So you can dismantle it easily. That wood is quite thick over 4 inch square - but i guess you could glue a few lengths of thinner wood together.

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 7 років тому +2

      Sure that would work. I think you'd want some bracing, or some crazy tight joinery to keep the thing from racking around. It's fun to practice on smaller projects.

  • @robertbamford8266
    @robertbamford8266 4 роки тому +1

    Tap and drag to register the chisel for the next scoring cut. I don’t do timber framing, but I’ll be sure to try it on next mortise I chisel out. Thanks! (Also liked the “we don’t normally cut mortise and tenon on opposite ends of same piece.” Makes it easier to assemble.)

    • @johnvrabec9747
      @johnvrabec9747 2 роки тому +1

      30 seconds into this video and I learned something. Tap and drag is so logical to do. All these pros on YT helping me build my projects better.😀

  • @edition-deluxe
    @edition-deluxe 4 роки тому

    Like a Boss!

  • @tbirdsteve1
    @tbirdsteve1 7 років тому

    Enjoyed the video very much, also I'm fascinated by your mallet, it's a gem. What brand is it so I can find one?

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 6 років тому +1

      That's a Garland split head. Still made in Saco, Maine. They're great and they last forever.

  • @coolfool102191
    @coolfool102191 Місяць тому

    When cutting the tenon, instead of doing several cross cuts with the circular saw and then chiselling, could you just use a hand saw for the two cuts, eliminating the need to chisel?

  • @bobvedder2451
    @bobvedder2451 2 роки тому

    I want to use shouldered mortice and tenon to make the bents for my gazebo project.

  • @dogf4ther
    @dogf4ther 4 роки тому

    Can you put a tool list up. I would love to get those chisels

  • @user-my9yn4yn6y
    @user-my9yn4yn6y 3 місяці тому

    To drill square I just drill through a piece of timber perfectly level with a spirit level on my drill. Then use that timber hole to guide me drill downwards into the new timber

  • @gary24752
    @gary24752 2 роки тому +1

    Did you modify the screw of the drill bit to keep it from being too aggressive?

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 2 роки тому

      Nope. For softwoods you want a courser bit anyways.

  • @warpmodeofficial4035
    @warpmodeofficial4035 8 років тому

    Awesome idea what type of wood is that ?

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 8 років тому +1

      +Warp Mode Official That's Eastern White Pine, which is often used for timber framing, but certainly not exclusively. It's easy to work, you can get fairly large pieces and it's light. But it's not terribly strong relative to other species. Other common timber framing woods are douglas fir, southern yellow pine, and red and white oak. You can timber frame with most domestic species, all with their own advantages and disadvantages.

    • @warpmodeofficial4035
      @warpmodeofficial4035 8 років тому

      +Brad Morse awesome thanks so much great videos keep up the great work

  • @colinanderson7319
    @colinanderson7319 8 років тому +1

    great job.what is the size of the wood please

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 7 років тому

      I think that you're correct (below). About 4.5"?

  • @davidfalat4377
    @davidfalat4377 3 роки тому

    Very easy to do in softwood. Can we see you do it in hardwood

  • @MIZKhalid
    @MIZKhalid 5 років тому

    Nice demo but I failed on this... I tried the hand drill for a mortise to make a joint for a table's leg. It was crappy - the alignment was horrible.
    So how do you ensure that the mortise it at it's correct angle?
    Thanks!

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 4 роки тому

      You could use a smaller drill bit to give you a little more leeway. You could use a square to help align the drill bit. Lastly, someone mentioned using a mirror. If you get a plastic mirror and drill a hole through the middle, it shows pretty clearly how square you are to the wood. Good luck!

  • @esthermaxwell3144
    @esthermaxwell3144 6 років тому

    What brand bit did you use & recommend?

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 5 років тому

      The Woodowl and Holzmasters are nice. Augers are better, self-feed bits can stuck.

  • @ilantwito
    @ilantwito Місяць тому

    Which brand are your chisels?

  • @MakeMyJay
    @MakeMyJay 2 роки тому

    Where did you get the 1.5" auger bit?

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 2 роки тому

      I believe I got it off eBay. 1.5” bits can be hard to find. The Woodowl bits are really nice.

  • @mav5204
    @mav5204 2 роки тому

    Where can I get the pegs and what size mortice for 6x8 beam and 6x6 post also how much of offset on hole

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 2 роки тому +1

      Good questions. Riven pegs can be made. The best turned timber frame pegs are from pegs.us. Mortise would be 1.5” wide. And about 1/8” draw-bore offset in softwoods.

  • @gary24752
    @gary24752 4 роки тому

    Wondering why you don't drill the hole first in the mortise and then put the drill pit down in the hole to mark the center on the tenon.This way you have a more accurate location to drill the offset hole.

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 2 роки тому +1

      Yes, we do that in scribe rule timber framing. The main disadvantage to that approach is that you have to move big heavy timbers together.

  • @colinanderson7319
    @colinanderson7319 8 років тому

    looked at video again presume its 4 1/2 inches approx. ? .... if you used a thicker timber eg 6" would the mortoise + tenon joint stay at inch and a half regardless of size of timber ? (within reason) thx

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 7 років тому +1

      We usually keep the mortise and tenon widths about 1/4 of the width of the piece. So yes, 1.5" would be fine a 6" timber. There are certainly exceptions however, as it really depends on the load on that joint.

    • @gregl2249
      @gregl2249 6 років тому

      usually are 1/3 of width of timber--a 6x6 is actually 5 1/2 by 5 1/2 so the tenon would be 113/16

  • @nickmacker5683
    @nickmacker5683 6 років тому +1

    how deep is the mortise?

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 5 років тому

      I believe it's either 3 or 4" deep.

  • @mirekmyszoglad5398
    @mirekmyszoglad5398 8 років тому +1

    What type of drill bit is used at the beginning of video. It looks like big diameter one.

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 7 років тому

      It can be hard to find large diameter auger bits, especially decent ones. I think that's a Dewalt bit. Auger bits over 1.5" are even harder to find.

  • @harrykirk7415
    @harrykirk7415 5 років тому +1

    You first-cut drill the mortise with a 1 and 1/2 inch drill starting around 1:20. Don't you want the depth exact and the angle square? It seemed too effortless the way it was done as if you knew it would be right without thinking about it, just eye-balling it. What are some things someone doing it the first time would need to check to learn to do it so apparently effortlessly.

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 5 років тому

      You do want the depth pretty close, ideally an 1/8 - 1/4" deeper than the tenon length. I was winging it a bit in this video. You could mark the bit with a marker or piece of tape. Or use a vertical block of wood that act as a stop against the side handle of the drill.
      It wasn't a very deep mortise at all, so I wasn't too worried about drilling for square. But if I'm free-hand drilling with a longer bit, I'll use a combination square or the Al Borneman tool to gauge whether I'm square. With time, your eye gets better at judging things like plumb, square, parallel, etc.

  • @maury7697
    @maury7697 7 років тому

    what brand drill bit is that?

  • @Sarrienne
    @Sarrienne 6 років тому +3

    Traditional? Using ye olde power tooles for drillinge ye mortise?

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 5 років тому +1

      I've got a Miller's Falls boring machine as well, but most people don't have one of those kicking around. I'd rather use the MF over a drill.

  • @deliciousness8183
    @deliciousness8183 7 років тому +4

    couldnt you drill the peg hole with the tenon in place so as not to measure the peg hole on the tenon?

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 7 років тому +5

      You could, but you wouldn't get any drawbore on the joint. Drawboring is using the peg to essentially spring the joint tight. The wood doesn't really shrink along it's length, but it will across the width. So with green timber, the mortised piece could shrink. The drawbored peg (which will actually bend) will pull the joint tight and will help to keep it tight. It's an old school technique for both furniture and structures.

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 7 років тому +3

      That is true about when you (or I) drill a little out of square, and it looks goofy on the other side. Especially if there are two holes near each other, like a pair of braces. But I wouldn't drill from both sides, because they could not meet up. I avoid the drilling problem by using a Mafell drill guide, but there are some less expensive options out there.
      It's worth noting that when I do drill from one side, I stop once the lead screw pops through on the far side. If you don't, you can get a blow out. If you're handdrilling pull up on the drill and you'll feel it stop pulling down (because there's no wood below the lead screw). Then we drop the lead screw in the little hole on the far side, and finish it.

    • @all4180
      @all4180 6 років тому

      That's very helpful, thanks.

    • @EagleWH99
      @EagleWH99 5 років тому +2

      In order not to have to measure, you could drill the hole in the mortise piece first. Then insert the tenon and use the drillbit to mark the centre of the hole, and offset from that mark in the tenon.

    • @all4180
      @all4180 5 років тому

      Exactly. Way less risky (and quicker) than measuring.

  • @adamelekes
    @adamelekes 6 років тому

    It could have been a nice ending shot with a tight closed joint, but sadly there is an ugly gap on one side of the tenon...

    • @bgt63
      @bgt63 5 років тому

      He didn't finish driving the peg through

  • @chris15325
    @chris15325 5 років тому +1

    Checking you've chopped the mortise square to the face is crucial. Skipped that part

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 4 роки тому +1

      Your eye gets pretty attuned to seeing square after cutting a few thousand mortises. When we need to check depth and squareness, we'd use a combination square.

  • @shanek6582
    @shanek6582 6 років тому

    First video and I'm not being a smartass, are you norm Abrams son?

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 5 років тому

      Nope, I just grew up watching him.

  • @Matthlanning
    @Matthlanning 5 років тому

    Why wouldn't you just use a call style ripsaw to cut the cheeks of the tennon

    • @bradsmorse
      @bradsmorse 3 роки тому +1

      We do sometimes, but it really depends on the length of the tenon. It's faster to split it off if the grain is fairly straight. And it's faster to rip if the grain is crazy or there's a knot.

  • @miloszivkovic6118
    @miloszivkovic6118 Рік тому

    This is harder to do than it looks like

  • @RAGproduction
    @RAGproduction 4 роки тому +3

    "Fasten Master-Pro Star" my arse. This guy is clearly not a professional timber framer

    • @5Detective
      @5Detective 4 роки тому +2

      I didn't see any issues. Not the sharpest work, but functional.

    • @johnvrabec9747
      @johnvrabec9747 2 роки тому +1

      I would assume its all about the technique, not about the finished product for these types of videos. If you want to know how to clean up your joints for high precision, that's a different video.