The best video you’ve produced so far 😂. I’m so pleased you have decided to share your knowledge and expertise with the world and I’m loving this format. Sitting here with my feet up after a tough two hours on the poolside with a whisky once again. 🌞
I think that, after method, the most helpful element for aspiring or beginning joiners is the time a job takes. I was MD of a large main business and started a small bespoke furniture sideline really out of my hobby interest. My main job really taught me the importance of recognising all parts that go into making up a proper costing for a job. From memory, they were: Fixed costs such as rent (if you owned the workshop, you should calculate it’s repair and rebuild costs), rates, power Equipment costs. Tools don’t last forever; there may be repairs required for larger items and there are consumables such as blades which have to be paid for. It wasn’t a bad calculation for us to assume each tool had a life of 3 years. So, if the total cost of all of our tools was £21,000, we would calculate tools at £7,000 per year or £120 per week. Labour. Only experience would really guide you on how long a job will take. You can watch YT for ideas (wish it was around when I started) but sometimes that can be as misleading as helpful Ancillary labour and associated costs. By which I mean something like going to the yard to select the timber. That’s time and car costs. Design. What a pit this could be. We did have someone who took our design and offered it to others to see who could come out cheaper ( they did come back to us, told us what they had done and said that they wanted to order with us. I asked to go forth and multiple). Our best idea/result was to offer the vaguest of design to the client for free; if they liked the overall concept of, say, a bookcase, then we would charge for the detailed design but the charge was refundable against the order. At this stage, the total cost was calculated and advised. It’s also not a bad idea to tell the client at the first meeting about how much a piece might cost (“if you go ahead in oak, I reckon between £7000 and £10000) because so many clients think that a bespoke piece should be about the same as a piece of rubbish from Oakfurnitureland. If they accept that kind of budget price, then at least any further work on design or coatings may not be wasted. Contract and Payment. You are not making any money until you get paid! You really should draw up a contract that your client signs. My experience with lawyers meant that it was easy for me to draw up my own contract but I appreciate this isn’t the case for many. Pay for a solicitor to draw up a boiler plate (generic) contract and then, each time, you just add in the job-specific elements such as total amount payable, stage payments and (very important) what happens if the client doesn’t pay. As I said, we charged for design; that bill had to be paid before we scheduled the work. Depending upon the size of the job (we were making bespoke furniture and so rarely did we have to do this), you should charge in stages. Stage 1 might be the rough cost of materials; stage2 might be costs halfway through the job; stage 3 might be after delivery. Get paid before you go to the next stage and don’t hesitate to go to court if that final payment isn’t made. Unless you also want to be a bank, don’t give credit. There is an old saying - turnover for vanity; profit for sanity. In other words, you are not working for love - make a profit on each job. The number of times that I was told “do this job cheaply and there’s a lot more work for you” believe that and you’ll never make a business! Like everyone else, you get to learn all of this from mistakes that you’ve made. So, I hope others can learn from our painful experiences
I like this length & type of video, what i dont like is videos packed out with time lapse of vans traveling through traffic with monotonous generic music at high volume. I think thats why i like the 🚜 segments in yours so much. 👍
Absolutely love your channel..i was a carpenter for about 20years but due go ill health ive had to stop work. Your videos give me great pleasure. Thankyou
I have watched all the previous videos but it didn't stop me from enjoying this one. I talk to myself as I do jobs in the workshop and I think it helps clarify the task. Not knowing what you have done with a tool is par for the course! It gets worse as you get older! Something to look forward to! Cheers. Jim
Those wobbly horses were making me nervous especially with those runners. I'd strongly advise wearing steel toes, drop one of those oak posts on your foot and it's all over. Have you considered making an auxiliary base for that DeWalt router. It's fairly tippy doing those tenon shoulders. Top notch craftsmanship as always Sir, 👍😁🔨🇮🇪
Great video as always Ollie! One of the penalties of working on your own, as I’ve done most of my working life, is that, even with no camera, I talk to myself all day!! All my customers got used to it in the end! 😂
Really enjoying this series of videos, the farming side as well - I can really recommend the DeWalt 7035 saw horses. Very strong, stable and fold up nice and compact - Noticed you've got a bit of a wobble on at present.
Whenever I see a resin bond driveway I can't help but think in a few years it will be akin to the stone cladding Jack & Vera Duckworth put on their house in Coronation street.
Definitely the right call leaving the little step at the bottom of the tenons, looks mint ! Been thinking since I seen that mammoth chisel, how the hell does he sharpen that thing!!? 😂 Love my massive 2” incher, it’s more about how you use it obviously though…. 😜
Everytime I'm doing jobs that need a degree of concentration, I talk to myself out loud taking myself through the process, I can't help it it just happens but it certainly helps, 😂
Nice video! I'm doing an oak frame enclosed porch myself. I got quote for a tiny billy porch over £10K just to send the kit over for me to install it here in North CowBoYorkshire ( What are they drinking?!) It is beyond me three posts and couple of wall plates for that price, really, really?
Hi Ollie, the thing that doesn’t come across in the videos is if you have never worked with or handled timbers of this size is the effect that goes into every procedure, do that all day long and you are ready for fish and chips delivered 😊
Great series of videos, really enjoyed every one, thanks for sharing your knowledge. How many man hours in total do you think this will run to including the install
Another great video. When you are undercutting the shoulder at 15:00, would it be easier and more consistent to put a shim across the board near the edge of the router base to establish the angle?
Yes, absolutely, I wanted to put 3 or 4 layers.of masking tape under the one side to tilt it but haven't got there yet, while it looks dodgy the holding slightly undercut angle works reet 😂
Yes it is, amzn.to/3syS5kp the rail im using is called an FSK and is available in different lengths and is the primary use/design for that saw. Dont buy the cordless version. Its gutless.
mmmm under cut the shoulders? You basically cut the shoulder once and there you have it. Also whats the point of the jig.. I've been building oak frames fro 25 years and what you do is mark out the tenon and free hand cut the joint.. I have too much experience to even think what you are doing is the right way to do it! Sorry if a bit harsh.
By marking out the tenon each time, you've already cut it with a jig. And with better accuracy. How can you undercut all 4 sides of the post shoulders without impactinng another shoulder line? Unless you are undercutting afterwards? I'm not saying either is wrong just trying to understand. It's like folk saying it's as quicker to mortice and tenon a door by hand than do with machine... repeatable accuracy is the best way IMO
@@BradshawJoinery Don't over look 25 years of full time oak framing experience.. Looking at your new kit it's clear your new to this. The timber is un even and you cant trust the cross grain rail especially when at the end of the beam. as there's run off from the band saw. Any one can cut with a rail but if you're marking out and following the line you are in fact taking into account the shape of the beam. This way you are not making adjustments to the tenon shoulder. Your last content you made the mortise too big as in 10mm .. make the tenon first and create the motrice 1.5 mm wider. To produce a good quality frame... you put in the extra mile into setting and marking out as then you aren't adjusting the work on assembly.. last point it doesn't take naff all time to do the cuts, it's the setting out. Over my career of framing I have trained many people who have learned from my work... and can see that you have a bit more to learn! As before not being harsh but you have a very experienced framer watching what your doing!
You spent all that money on that track saw yet you have a cheap, plastic handled handsaw for working on a timber frame. I don't understand why guys don't have nice vintage handsaws
@@BradshawJoinery I was looking for the interaction with you.... of course I'm kidding! excellent execution delighted to see your videos that you post every day hello from Switzerland
The best video you’ve produced so far 😂. I’m so pleased you have decided to share your knowledge and expertise with the world and I’m loving this format. Sitting here with my feet up after a tough two hours on the poolside with a whisky once again. 🌞
I think that, after method, the most helpful element for aspiring or beginning joiners is the time a job takes. I was MD of a large main business and started a small bespoke furniture sideline really out of my hobby interest. My main job really taught me the importance of recognising all parts that go into making up a proper costing for a job. From memory, they were:
Fixed costs such as rent (if you owned the workshop, you should calculate it’s repair and rebuild costs), rates, power
Equipment costs. Tools don’t last forever; there may be repairs required for larger items and there are consumables such as blades which have to be paid for. It wasn’t a bad calculation for us to assume each tool had a life of 3 years. So, if the total cost of all of our tools was £21,000, we would calculate tools at £7,000 per year or £120 per week.
Labour. Only experience would really guide you on how long a job will take. You can watch YT for ideas (wish it was around when I started) but sometimes that can be as misleading as helpful
Ancillary labour and associated costs. By which I mean something like going to the yard to select the timber. That’s time and car costs.
Design. What a pit this could be. We did have someone who took our design and offered it to others to see who could come out cheaper ( they did come back to us, told us what they had done and said that they wanted to order with us. I asked to go forth and multiple). Our best idea/result was to offer the vaguest of design to the client for free; if they liked the overall concept of, say, a bookcase, then we would charge for the detailed design but the charge was refundable against the order. At this stage, the total cost was calculated and advised.
It’s also not a bad idea to tell the client at the first meeting about how much a piece might cost (“if you go ahead in oak, I reckon between £7000 and £10000) because so many clients think that a bespoke piece should be about the same as a piece of rubbish from Oakfurnitureland. If they accept that kind of budget price, then at least any further work on design or coatings may not be wasted.
Contract and Payment. You are not making any money until you get paid! You really should draw up a contract that your client signs. My experience with lawyers meant that it was easy for me to draw up my own contract but I appreciate this isn’t the case for many. Pay for a solicitor to draw up a boiler plate (generic) contract and then, each time, you just add in the job-specific elements such as total amount payable, stage payments and (very important) what happens if the client doesn’t pay.
As I said, we charged for design; that bill had to be paid before we scheduled the work. Depending upon the size of the job (we were making bespoke furniture and so rarely did we have to do this), you should charge in stages. Stage 1 might be the rough cost of materials; stage2 might be costs halfway through the job; stage 3 might be after delivery. Get paid before you go to the next stage and don’t hesitate to go to court if that final payment isn’t made. Unless you also want to be a bank, don’t give credit.
There is an old saying - turnover for vanity; profit for sanity. In other words, you are not working for love - make a profit on each job. The number of times that I was told “do this job cheaply and there’s a lot more work for you” believe that and you’ll never make a business!
Like everyone else, you get to learn all of this from mistakes that you’ve made. So, I hope others can learn from our painful experiences
I like this length & type of video, what i dont like is videos packed out with time lapse of vans traveling through traffic with monotonous generic music at high volume. I think thats why i like the 🚜 segments in yours so much. 👍
Absolutely love your channel..i was a carpenter for about 20years but due go ill health ive had to stop work. Your videos give me great pleasure. Thankyou
Mafells tool with the spinning head would be perfect for this. Great video mate!
Expensive stuff though!
I have watched all the previous videos but it didn't stop me from enjoying this one. I talk to myself as I do jobs in the workshop and I think it helps clarify the task. Not knowing what you have done with a tool is par for the course! It gets worse as you get older! Something to look forward to! Cheers. Jim
Never boring, even the farm stuff is interesting. Don't do your self down. 🙂🙂
Cheers mate!
Cracking job!!!!!!!
Great walk through. Thanks
Great execution as always
I learned so much in this video!
Superb video - straight to the point, clear, helpful, lovely! 🙂
cheers mate
Recommend getting some WoodOwl bits that can go right through the timber.
Just love the skills and great thinking you have ... luv the channel !
as always beautiful work.
Its why reciprocating saws are called demolition saws, its all they are good for
Those wobbly horses were making me nervous especially with those runners. I'd strongly advise wearing steel toes, drop one of those oak posts on your foot and it's all over. Have you considered making an auxiliary base for that DeWalt router. It's fairly tippy doing those tenon shoulders. Top notch craftsmanship as always Sir, 👍😁🔨🇮🇪
Great video as always Ollie! One of the penalties of working on your own, as I’ve done most of my working life, is that, even with no camera, I talk to myself all day!! All my customers got used to it in the end! 😂
Nice to see that someone else wears the same Asdadas Safety Boots as me😂
10:45 yes they are driving me mad 🤦♂️😂
I fixed them today, finally got me too hahah
@@BradshawJoinery good fella I was going to jump in the van seek you out and repair them ,o c d and all that 😳
👍👍👍.Thanks
Really enjoying this series of videos, the farming side as well - I can really recommend the DeWalt 7035 saw horses. Very strong, stable and fold up nice and compact - Noticed you've got a bit of a wobble on at present.
Ha, just heard the wobbly stools comment - Yeah I couldn't live with that.
Great job, really nice! Niek.
great video!
Excellent work! Where did you purchase that large chisel it’s great
www.intertoolsonline.co.uk/robert-sorby/hand-tools/woodworking/framing-slicks/timber-framing-slick-289
3 3/8”
Whenever I see a resin bond driveway I can't help but think in a few years it will be akin to the stone cladding Jack & Vera Duckworth put on their house in Coronation street.
👀
@@BradshawJoinery Hahaha, how strange I just left that comment on a skillbuilder video, not sure what happened🤣
@@kevocos UA-cam is probably broken. Like my internet today. what a nightmare
It was the colours that made that job but 👍🏻 good old Jack and Vera P.C and woke before it was a thing 😜😂
Definitely the right call leaving the little step at the bottom of the tenons, looks mint !
Been thinking since I seen that mammoth chisel, how the hell does he sharpen that thing!!? 😂
Love my massive 2” incher, it’s more about how you use it obviously though…. 😜
Everytime I'm doing jobs that need a degree of concentration, I talk to myself out loud taking myself through the process, I can't help it it just happens but it certainly helps, 😂
I do that, but keep repeating same word over & over! Bugger, bugger bugger 😅
Crikey you must be in my earshot!°
Hi cheeky question, where did you get the saw run guides please thanks great videos
Agree with @steveg4iwr, never boring watching a craftsman (joiner/carpenter or farmhand)
Nice video! I'm doing an oak frame enclosed porch myself. I got quote for a tiny billy porch over £10K just to send the kit over for me to install it here in North CowBoYorkshire ( What are they drinking?!) It is beyond me three posts and couple of wall plates for that price, really, really?
Hi Ollie, the thing that doesn’t come across in the videos is if you have never worked with or handled timbers of this size is the effect that goes into every procedure, do that all day long and you are ready for fish and chips delivered 😊
Haha yeah pretty much spot on there!!!
Great series of videos, really enjoyed every one, thanks for sharing your knowledge. How many man hours in total do you think this will run to including the install
probably 4 weeks to make and week to do the beam install? then plus cutting the roof on nd boarding... its all heavy as... Maybe 2 more weeks.
Another great video. When you are undercutting the shoulder at 15:00, would it be easier and more consistent to put a shim across the board near the edge of the router base to establish the angle?
Yes, absolutely, I wanted to put 3 or 4 layers.of masking tape under the one side to tilt it but haven't got there yet, while it looks dodgy the holding slightly undercut angle works reet 😂
Is the packer half thickness of the tenon ?
Hi, is that particular festool circular saw still available? Great video
Yes it is, amzn.to/3syS5kp the rail im using is called an FSK and is available in different lengths and is the primary use/design for that saw. Dont buy the cordless version. Its gutless.
Question what is the wood you working with. Fur spruce pine or ?.
Merci.
Hello, its european Oak, thankyou
mmmm under cut the shoulders? You basically cut the shoulder once and there you have it. Also whats the point of the jig.. I've been building oak frames fro 25 years and what you do is mark out the tenon and free hand cut the joint.. I have too much experience to even think what you are doing is the right way to do it! Sorry if a bit harsh.
By marking out the tenon each time, you've already cut it with a jig. And with better accuracy. How can you undercut all 4 sides of the post shoulders without impactinng another shoulder line? Unless you are undercutting afterwards? I'm not saying either is wrong just trying to understand.
It's like folk saying it's as quicker to mortice and tenon a door by hand than do with machine... repeatable accuracy is the best way IMO
@@BradshawJoinery Don't over look 25 years of full time oak framing experience.. Looking at your new kit it's clear your new to this. The timber is un even and you cant trust the cross grain rail especially when at the end of the beam. as there's run off from the band saw. Any one can cut with a rail but if you're marking out and following the line you are in fact taking into account the shape of the beam. This way you are not making adjustments to the tenon shoulder. Your last content you made the mortise too big as in 10mm .. make the tenon first and create the motrice 1.5 mm wider.
To produce a good quality frame... you put in the extra mile into setting and marking out as then you aren't adjusting the work on assembly.. last point it doesn't take naff all time to do the cuts, it's the setting out.
Over my career of framing I have trained many people who have learned from my work... and can see that you have a bit more to learn! As before not being harsh but you have a very experienced framer watching what your doing!
👊🫡
i hope that is a pile of sawdust behind you and not a food crop
yes its the green oak shavings lol. Our Crops go for animal feed also. Human consumption crops have to be in assured storage.
Im sure theres easier ways to cut a tenon
You spent all that money on that track saw yet you have a cheap, plastic handled handsaw for working on a timber frame. I don't understand why guys don't have nice vintage handsaws
there's too much play on your model, buddy
How do you mean mate?
@@BradshawJoinery I was looking for the interaction with you.... of course I'm kidding! excellent execution delighted to see your videos that you post every day hello from Switzerland
Arrrrrrg! Those bouncy saw horses. All of your wasted energy getting them to dance for you.