Thank you for a clear and concise video concerning the rear wheel bearing and hub. Who manufactured the device that you used to push in and pull out the bearing and hub?
Thank you for a great video!!! I recently did the Front Wheel Bearings in my 2010 GL450, removing the entire knuckle assembly and using a friend’s 20 ton shop press to press out tbe old and in the new bearings…and an angle grinder and air hammer to remove what remains on the hub, which I’d prefer to never do again…LOL!!! My rear wheel bearings just started making noise last week, so they are in cue to be replaced soon. (It’s time. I’m over 304,000 miles and I’ve only done the rear one time in the GL’s life.) Would you be opposed to sharing a link or brand/name of the specific bearing puller tool that you used…as well as the same for any of the other specialty tools that you used? I have plans to upgrade to a slightly newer GL550 in the next year and keep the GL450…and occasionally work on a friend’s ML350…so I think it would be worthwhile to invest in the tools…and what you’re using looks to be of better quality than most I’ve seen. Thank you!!! Much appreciated!!!
When the hub is pressed in, it can push the inboard race out enough to develop play. For this reason, the knuckle should be completely removed, in order to go back and snug up the inner race and eliminate all play before the axle nut is torqued down.
Good video, good to see no air tools being used. Do you have any opinion on a bearing brand called ‘ NATIONAL’. It is carried locally as a premium bearing option . Thanks
Thanks for tge comment. I usually use air tools to disassemble when I don't care about the bearing. National should be fine. I've used them before on other applications.
Did the second one survive and did you use brand other than SKF on with the second bearing? Thank you so much for this video....It was very helpful. I'm going to do one of the front bearings on my ML in the morning if I manage to get off my rump to get it done...LOL. I got NTN bearing which is supposedly the OEM part.
so far has been good and yes I used the same brand the second time. The front is similar to the rear with a pressed in wheel bearing. be sure to watch you don`t damage the speed sensor. It may come out of the knuckle if its not rusted in place and be sure the magnetic reluctor on the bearing is in the correct way towards the speed sensor or you will get to do the job a second time. Good Luck
Sir... Here is the reason your bearing failed.. When you are pressing the hub into the bearing you have to back up the center of the bearing because when youre pressing in the hub you are putting all the force of the bearing press on the center of the bearing .. Sorry to break this to you but this one will go bad just as fast as the last one you had to replace...good luck
Thanks for the comment. I have done dozens of this style bearing and this is tge first time I have had one fail that quickly. Couple weeks. I did use an adapter on tge centre of the bearing in the back. I believe there was an issue with the part. Thanks for the suggestion though.
@sebastiendossantos3829 it's an OTC hub tamer kit. Very expensive as well. I'll try to find a link...a.co/d/0tLiJHp and ATD Tools 8625 Front Wheel Drive Bearing Adapter Kit a.co/d/2fWr1P6
here you go... www.amazon.ca/OTC-6575-Hub-Grabber-Kit/dp/B004ZG69D2/ref=sr_1_4?crid=ZCNIQP5JQEPA&keywords=OTC+hub+puller+kit&qid=1649959462&s=automotive&sprefix=otc+hub+puller+kit%2Cautomotive%2C75&sr=1-4
Hi, Do you have to resent the ecu to Erase the abs eps codes after a wheel bearing change. My mechanic changed the bearing and now i have abs esp. I have changed the abs sensor and the errors still appear. I am concerned he has put the bearing the wrong way.
If everything is assembled correctly code should go to history and self erase. If not clear with a scanner. Disconnecting the battery likely won't do it. Yes if the bearing is installed backwards you will have no speed signal. If the speed sensor was damaged during bearing removal or install the code won't clear. I'd recommend to take it back to where the work was done first.
@@PhillipBailey Thanks for they reply. I changed the abs sensor so its cant be thant Im going to see another Mechanic with a merc scan tool to reset the codes if it comes back again ill take it back to the original mechanic.
Thank you for a clear and concise video concerning the rear wheel bearing and hub. Who manufactured the device that you used to push in and pull out the bearing and hub?
OTC 6575 Hub Grabber Kit a.co/d/eDYMeJm
Thank you for a great video!!! I recently did the Front Wheel Bearings in my 2010 GL450, removing the entire knuckle assembly and using a friend’s 20 ton shop press to press out tbe old and in the new bearings…and an angle grinder and air hammer to remove what remains on the hub, which I’d prefer to never do again…LOL!!! My rear wheel bearings just started making noise last week, so they are in cue to be replaced soon. (It’s time. I’m over 304,000 miles and I’ve only done the rear one time in the GL’s life.) Would you be opposed to sharing a link or brand/name of the specific bearing puller tool that you used…as well as the same for any of the other specialty tools that you used? I have plans to upgrade to a slightly newer GL550 in the next year and keep the GL450…and occasionally work on a friend’s ML350…so I think it would be worthwhile to invest in the tools…and what you’re using looks to be of better quality than most I’ve seen. Thank you!!! Much appreciated!!!
When the hub is pressed in, it can push the inboard race out enough to develop play. For this reason, the knuckle should be completely removed, in order to go back and snug up the inner race and eliminate all play before the axle nut is torqued down.
Thank you for the video , I wish you had shown how to remove the bearing
Здесь всё показал , молдчинка . Спасибо напомнил .
That seems pretty simple. Thanks for the video!
Good video, good to see no air tools being used. Do you have any opinion on a bearing brand called ‘ NATIONAL’. It is carried locally as a premium bearing option .
Thanks
Thanks for tge comment. I usually use air tools to disassemble when I don't care about the bearing. National should be fine. I've used them before on other applications.
Bonjour Mr Philip, ou vous avez trouver votre outils pour extraire le moyeu de la Mercedes ml 320 cdi ?
This looks eerily similar to the Jeep WK2 rear bearings. I'm gonna need to do this on my 2016 to replace the parking brake backing plates.
Did the second one survive and did you use brand other than SKF on with the second bearing? Thank you so much for this video....It was very helpful. I'm going to do one of the front bearings on my ML in the morning if I manage to get off my rump to get it done...LOL. I got NTN bearing which is supposedly the OEM part.
so far has been good and yes I used the same brand the second time. The front is similar to the rear with a pressed in wheel bearing. be sure to watch you don`t damage the speed sensor. It may come out of the knuckle if its not rusted in place and be sure the magnetic reluctor on the bearing is in the correct way towards the speed sensor or you will get to do the job a second time. Good Luck
Can you elaborate on how you pressed the inner race off please I don’t understand your setup on the press at the moment thank you in advance
At 8:30 in the video where the flange is in the press I'm using a split bearing puller which clamps under the outer race.
Thank you! I assume it's the same for a 2012 GL450
It is likely a different part but the repair procedure is similar.
Good Job, and thank you for the video. What Brand of bearing did you use that failed? Thank you.
I believe it was a SKF brand.
@@PhillipBailey Thank you.
What’s the equipment you used to remove the hub from the bearing? I can’t seem to find it anywhere???
OTC here's a Canadian link: OTC 6575 Hub Grabber Kit a.co/d/4104BKD
@@PhillipBailey
I Thought That Was aa Beautiful Puller..
I Didn't Realize It Was A $1500 Beauty
Just use a 5lb slide hammer
Sir... Here is the reason your bearing failed.. When you are pressing the hub into the bearing you have to back up the center of the bearing because when youre pressing in the hub you are putting all the force of the bearing press on the center of the bearing .. Sorry to break this to you but this one will go bad just as fast as the last one you had to replace...good luck
Thanks for the comment. I have done dozens of this style bearing and this is tge first time I have had one fail that quickly. Couple weeks. I did use an adapter on tge centre of the bearing in the back. I believe there was an issue with the part. Thanks for the suggestion though.
@@PhillipBailey Hello Mr Philip, Where did you find your tool to extract the wheel hub of the Mercedes Ml 320cdi? What is the name of the tool?
@sebastiendossantos3829 it's an OTC hub tamer kit. Very expensive as well. I'll try to find a link...a.co/d/0tLiJHp and ATD Tools 8625 Front Wheel Drive Bearing Adapter Kit a.co/d/2fWr1P6
Where can i find the same exact tool you used?
I'm using two kits here both purchased over 15 years ago on ebay. OTC sells a kit that incorporates both. I'll find a link and post it soon.
OTC 6575H Hydraulic Hub Grappler Kit a.co/d/22pNhBH
Not cheap by any means.
What tool have you used to pull the hub and bearings out ?? Put a link of you could please
here you go... www.amazon.ca/OTC-6575-Hub-Grabber-Kit/dp/B004ZG69D2/ref=sr_1_4?crid=ZCNIQP5JQEPA&keywords=OTC+hub+puller+kit&qid=1649959462&s=automotive&sprefix=otc+hub+puller+kit%2Cautomotive%2C75&sr=1-4
1500 Dollars for a hand press 😅what a waste of time,
@@PhillipBaileythis kit also presses the bearings in?
@@besartukaj7435 yes it does
Hi, Do you have to resent the ecu to Erase the abs eps codes after a wheel bearing change. My mechanic changed the bearing and now i have abs esp. I have changed the abs sensor and the errors still appear. I am concerned he has put the bearing the wrong way.
If everything is assembled correctly code should go to history and self erase. If not clear with a scanner. Disconnecting the battery likely won't do it. Yes if the bearing is installed backwards you will have no speed signal. If the speed sensor was damaged during bearing removal or install the code won't clear. I'd recommend to take it back to where the work was done first.
@@PhillipBailey Thanks for they reply. I changed the abs sensor so its cant be thant Im going to see another Mechanic with a merc scan tool to reset the codes if it comes back again ill take it back to the original mechanic.
Hi. When you pull the flange out what are you pushing against with the puller?
how many hours of labor? Also where are you located? Great job.
I'm just outside of Thunder Bay Ontario Canada 🇨🇦 eh. Couple hours doing it this way. Removing the entire knuckle will be 4 plus.
Where did you purchase parts
Local parts store.
Great video
Defective parts from the manufacture.....happen to me.....as well !