I've been watching a ton of clips on fixing my water pump on my dad's old 1979 6 horse Johnson. I've had it in storage for close to 25 years and now finally I'm trying to get it ready. The motor cranked pretty easy but no water pumped out any hole. You're video shows everything up close and simple. Thanks for making it and instructing in simple terms. I've been watching tons of videos on how to change everything out and to be honest you're video has been the best. Thanks again.
i am 70 yrs old live in a rooming house i got an 1967 9.5 johnson to go over and change the water pump ,my landlord dont know i am doing it in the bedroom ,,love your vids i am a real novice and you explain the job well ,,i bought it sight unseen but it turns over lots of comperssion and i am sure it will run ,,i will look to you for knowledge and help thanks for your vids ,very well worrth the subscribe .
Very good video, it had been about 50 years since I changed a water pump impeller, but after watching the video most of it came back to me. I lived next door to a retired OMC mechanic who helped me with my outboards over the years and many other neighbors as well. Whenever I was around one of these repairs I tried to watch and learn, as we were on a lake where at that time it was at least 30 miles to go to get parts. In fact, he showed us that if we had to we could flip the impeller over to make due till we could get a new one. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for your video it was very handy to watch it before I changed my pump I had a little trouble getting the lower unit off but your comments on the roll pin where a great help !!!
Great job lining that pin up before gearcase removal! Most guys miss this, just pull the unit down and mangle/bust the pin. This pin is very important, it secures the crankcase lower seal pieces in place, so leaving it out will eventually cause water intrusion into the powerhead... And yes, someone fell asleep at the switch while installing the shift rod connector screw backwards, great way to cause clutch dog damage/shifting problems!Probably best to start the job by draining the lube first, so you know what you are dealing with before you have got it all back together again. Good idea to pull the prop off also, most time you will find fish line back there. It is best to install the impeller into the impeller housing first, to ensure all the blades are properly positioned, then lower the assembly down over the driveshaft and key. Yes, this is more difficult, but you sure don't want to mess up the blades on the new impeller during installation. In this case, you can't go too far wrong, but proper installation technique becomes real important on larger engines and ones with plastic housings/SS liners/ and large orings that seal the housing to the impeller plate. You might want to add some grease to those impeller housing and gearcase screws before installation, the next guy will thankyou...Reinstalling one of these gearcases is a magic act in itself. Having an assistant helps make up for the fact that we don't have four arms and xray vision to ensure everything is lined up. Might be easier to pull the water tube out of the impeller housing and reinstall it up in the exhaust housing prior to installation, but it looks like everything cooperated for you just fine. Proper installation of that shift rod connector screw is so important. Sometimes I spread the connector apart just slightly to ensure the shift rod with slight into it without a fight. You must check the threads on the screw and the brass housing also, these are often stripped, but yours looked fine. There is a little SS special lock washer that should be used also (do not use a plain lockwasher). Installation is a little easier if you pull the gearcase shift rod all the way up into forward gear and push the shift lever into reverse prior to assembly as well. Again, I stress the importance or proper installation, messing up this step will result is clutch dog/gear damage and poor shifting. Needless to say, it's a good idea to have a look at the exhaust housing threads prior to gearcase installation, maybe run a tap through them also. So sorry about the stripped thread, sure have "been there and done that"...Again, don't forget the grease on the gearcase mounting bolts. Your gear lube looked OK, just old and dark, but I did not see any signs of water. Gear lube is cheap, so it should be checked/changed often. I couldn't tell, but was there a sealing washer stuck in the top lube screw hole? I did not see one on the screw. I am old and can't see, so I'm sure there was one there. Nonetheless, this is a common error which results in damage. Each lube/fill screw should have one (and only one) sealing washer. It's a good idea to probe the gearcase housing while the lube is draining, sometimes they are stuck in the housing. Improper installation results in either no sealing washer on one screw or one screw with two of them....In either event, this results in lube leaking out/water leaking into the gearcase. Can't wait to hear this thing run, your efforts are indeed worthwhile...Great job with the camera up inside that housing, was very clear and easy to see, much better than my eyes could have done on their own...
You are good!! Yes you are right!! I had to order new sealing washers for the gear case those didn't have any. I thought one was stuck to the motor but I just ordered two. My OEM points are still back ordered. So I did order a set from Wholesale Marine the Sierra brand I have never used that kind before but I want to see if this motor will start. Maybe my back order will get here some day. And thank you for sharing all your years of experience with us.
I have heard complaints about the Sierra points, you might be better off waiting for the OEM stuff. I looked up the points part number: 580148, says "unavailable" which seems hard to believe. The tune up kit part number is 172522 and is probably available at most local OMC/BRP dealers. I did find some of the OMC points on ebay:www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xomc+580148.TRS0&_nkw=omc+580148&_sacat=0
So glad to find help. Thanks to both of you. I had some water in the lower unit of my 86 6hp evinrude when I drained it. Got some new seals for the drain plug and vent plug. Hoping this is the problem but as I pumped new oil in the lower unit I noticed some oil coming out of the water inlet as the oil reached the top of the lower unit. Thought that was strange and wondered if that is something either of you have experienced. Thanks a bunch.
@@bigred4802 any time you leave a question for someone hit the thumbs up for them, it sends them a notification and they may check it. I would like to know the answer to that also so I hit the thumbs up.
Excellent comment to a great series of videos. I will be ordering seals for my lower unit vent/fill plugs now, as I have water getting in. I also struggled with seating the lower unit, particularly with RE-coupling the shift linkage. Raising the lower linkage with a pair of pliers got it done for me.
Thank you very much. I learned so much from your videos. You took a lot of the fear out of taking a old motor apart. No I can try to tackle points and condenser on a 18 horse Evinrude
I try! When I am watching someone do something I want to see how they did it. Not just the finished product that does not help. That is what my videos are you can see how I repaired it.
You know your stuff! I do wish you'd think ahead about telling us what you're about to do before doing it, and using good terminology about the parts or the pieces in the unit, or that you're installing into the unit. Thanks for your videos!
Good and helpful mate pulled a fifty apart yesterday no water coming out some ones put wrong impeller in with out the key when it should have a wedge stye impeller with a wedge brought the boat for 100 dollars so I can,t complain.
Great information! You just earned a big LIKE and SUBSCRIBE for two reasons: The straightforward instructions and your kind manner. Greetings from Seward Alaska.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I let my son use the fisherman I have not seen it for about a year now. Must still be running or it would have came back. Lol
Gr8 video. I did mines a month ago. The pin on the top of the shaft took me over two dozen shakes and twists to get off. Also, my shift screw threads was stripped, so I replaced one screw. But I can't remember if I used a stainless screw or not, so I'll be taking it apart again.
Love you Buddy.....You talk, exactly as I do! LOL Having said that, did you ever do a Video on redoing your wiring? I have a New Fuse Panel for my Boat, and I was going to redo mine as well. Just wondering.....if you did yours, if you did a Video? Love your style! Cheers
Good helpful video. But always replace new nylon washers when changing gear case oil and make sure the old ones are removed, sometimes they get left behind.
What year is the motor please? It seems the 5.5's are the ones everyone else says you need to remove the powerhead? I'm hopeful the one I need to do can be done like the way you are doing this one!
What year is that 6 HP Fisherman? The 5.5 HP and early 60's required pulling the POWERHEAD to drop the lower; they didn't have the two-piece shift rod like yours. OMC Seven and a Half and Ten and bigger motors had the access cover and coupler.
Have a 76 Johnson 6hp replaced the water pump and the shift linkage keeps popping off the collor of the lower unit any information would be appreciated. videos are very informative keep em coming .
Thank you for those good videos I have a 1974 6hp evirude I changed the impeller but my dosen't have the pin on the shaft it's that normal on that year thank you for your help
On the models I have worked on they have had the impeller pin. This way when the shaft rotates the impeller turns and pumps water. Was there a pin on the shaft to make the impeller turn when the shaft rotates. If it is pumping water when the engine is running sounds like you got it. Thanks for watching and stay safe!!
Great video, thanks man. Just replaced the impeller on my 72' last night. I'm wondering what you recommend as far as winterizing. It'll be in a metal shed all winter with temps as low as 0° or lower at times. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I like to fog the cylinders and make sure all the water is out of the water pump. There are two trains of thought about running all the gas out of the carb. One you running the engine with very little oil in it when the carb is running empty. Not good running the engine so lean. I have run them till the carb run out of gas for years before I was told I am running the engine with no oil doing that. I don't do it any more.
@@galenrobinson9993 I just leave it hang straight down for a while and the water will drain out. Sometimes if you tilt the motor water will get trapped.
Evinrude follows the same design for most of the outboards. Sometimes the shift linkage unhooks a little different but the water pump is about the same design.
The engine is turning clockwise. If you oil the impeller when installing it. It will help it stay cool till the water is up into it. My opinion is the oil would let the blades change direction if it was in wrong.
I have replaced the water pump impeller twice. All seems good. water inlet screen is good. Srill no water at exhaust. No water at thermostadt. What is your suggested next step??? 1973 6 hp Johnson: 6R73S.
The first step would be does the water pump work. I have taken the lower unit off and put it in water and turned the shaft to see if the pump is pumping to start with. Can you run water from the hose in the inlet where the water pump connects to the bottom of the motor. Does the water come out then? Let me know!
The little t-shaped impeller on the key on the impeller when you put it in make sure it doesn't turn sideways on you and otherwise you won't be able to get the thing closed so look at that slid into the slot correctly it will turn sideways
The pin was only about a inch long. If you look up the motor shaft you can see the slot it goes in. If you needed the exact length I am not sure. Thanks for watching and Stay Well.
Thank you for the video, I have a Jhonson 6hp that I get for free, can you tell me how I know the year of the motor and where I can get replacement parts any info will be appreciate thank !!!
Man I just need to ask I just opened four of these same kind of water pump and every single one had the lower unit goop sealant from the factory. What I’m asking is should we be put something like 3m 847 on the under side of the impeller plate to creat the first good vacuum to get the water flowing in????
Om Fishing so I’ve talked to a couple boat mechanics and they said that as long as you lube up the inside of the rubber water pump and the top housing that even if it was pointing in the wrong Direction it should flip the little rubber ears in the right direction!
Hi there are 2 tiny holes in the water tube going up from my water pump is that to release some water pressure from the system especially when running the engine at high speeds? Can anybody reply please before I plug them up.
Love your videos, I have a question. I recently put a water pump in a 1972 Evinrude 9.5 sportwin. My question is, the little o ring on top of the drive shaft stayed in the powerhead, how do I remove it? Thanks in advance, Chuck
When I looked it up the only o ring is the one above the water pump. The o ring at the top, is the lower seal. If we are talking about the lower seal there are some videos on you tube on getting that out with out pulling off the power head. I have not tried that yet. I have only taken the power head off to remove this one. Let me Know if we are talking about the same thing. Thanks for watching.
@@OmFishing no, on the 1972 when you pull the lower unit out, there's an O ring on the drive shaft (top) the first time I pulled it, the O ring was on the shaft. Then I pulled it a second time and the O ring stayed up by the powerhead. I believe the O ring is to prevent water from rusting the drive shaft. I haven't seen any information about this anywhere.. If I find out anything I will definitely let you know....
I have a 1966 6hp 6602B Evinrude. I’m having issues with removing lower unit. I am able to loosen and lower it, however I can’t remove it. I did notice I don’t have the bolt for the linkage connector. Any other ideas would help!
hello i am once again searching for your r knowledge i recently replaced the fuel line for my 6hp johnson 1979 i noticed someone says, the fuel line, from the tank, is a different size than the one to the motor i just made it all the same ,is this ok ? also second question i mistakenly heated the coil wire on my 58 10hp from a heat gun it melted the rubber very slightly ,,it still has a spark ,,silly newbee mistake i dont have a fly wheel puller ,and is the spark plug wire seperate from the coil or not ,,i am realy enjoying my new hobbie,, at seventy ,its a great pass the time ...thank s
I think as long as it is not leaking it would be ok. The wire inside is not hurt. Just make sure you don't have something that is going to shock you on the water. Stay Safe.
I have a 70 sportwin 9.5hp evinrude when I turn the handle to give It gas it works ok then the handle hit a spot where it dose nothing I keep turning it a little more then it works ok motor speeds up everything fine is this the way it should be or is something out of wack and you have good videos thanks
When you are turning the handle to give it gas does the linkage stop moving on the motor at the same point that the motor does nothing. Then start moving again.
I would first check on the motor end of the tiller handle. The inner control shaft gear and the vertical control shaft gear. Make sure that they are tight on the shaft and not loose or damaged. Then keep following the linkage for signs of ware.
Thank you sir for sharing your knowledge new sub for sure do you happen to have a video on how I can look up info on the motor ex. How to look up to model number and where I’d go to look up the info.
The only adjustment for the 30 that I know of is make sure when the shift handle in in neutral adjust the distance between the bottom of the neutral start switch and the top of the plunger to 1/16 inch.
So far I have never run into one that I could not get out. There are a lot of videos on youtube that good ideas. I use a lot of WD140 when I am going to work on a motor. Some time when I can I start spraying a week or two before I start. I don't have a secret for a stuck shaft. Stay Safe.
@@OmFishing You are right sir ! Put the gearcase in neutral before mating back the 2 lower unit parts but lowering the shifting rod by putting the top gear selector in reverse will allow for easier access to the shiftrod connector bolts. Just dial the selector back in neutral as you are pushing the lower unit in for those last few centimeters.
I know that seem odd to fill from the bottom. All the service manuals say do it that way. I assume that it is to keep out air pockets. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I've been watching a ton of clips on fixing my water pump on my dad's old 1979 6 horse Johnson. I've had it in storage for close to 25 years and now finally I'm trying to get it ready. The motor cranked pretty easy but no water pumped out any hole. You're video shows everything up close and simple. Thanks for making it and instructing in simple terms. I've been watching tons of videos on how to change everything out and to be honest you're video has been the best. Thanks again.
That is very generous. Sharing information is a great gift. Thanks. Dandahermit. Subbed
i am 70 yrs old live in a rooming house i got an 1967 9.5 johnson to go over and change the water pump ,my landlord dont know i am doing it in the bedroom ,,love your vids i am a real novice and you explain the job well ,,i bought it sight unseen but it turns over lots of comperssion and i am sure it will run ,,i will look to you for knowledge and help thanks for your vids ,very well worrth the subscribe .
I am happy to help, good luck and I wish you well.
Very good video, it had been about 50 years since I changed a water pump impeller, but after watching the video most of it came back to me. I lived next door to a retired OMC mechanic who helped me with my outboards over the years and many other neighbors as well. Whenever I was around one of these repairs I tried to watch and learn, as we were on a lake where at that time it was at least 30 miles to go to get parts. In fact, he showed us that if we had to we could flip the impeller over to make due till we could get a new one. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching and sharing the information with all of us.
Your videos are great! Working on restoring an old 6hp Evinrude that has been in the family since the 60s. Thanks!
Those are the best kind of project. I like the fact that you can hold a memory in your hand. Best of luck bringing it back. Stay Healthy!!!
Thanks for your video it was very handy to watch it before I changed my pump I had a little trouble getting the lower unit off but your comments on the roll pin where a great help !!!
Glad it helped. Thanks for commenting.
Very concise step by step instructions that anyone can easily follow. Your videos are the best I have found. Very helpful.
Happy to help and thanks for the kind words.
i am doing this job next week. i feel confident thanks to your help i can do it. thank you very much.also great camera work
Love your videos very helpful! has given me much needed insight/confidence working on my own outboards. Keep up the great work!
Thanks! Helpful. I wish we were neighbors!
Thanks Stay safe.
I know this is older video , however lots of useful information, thanks
Glad it was helpful! Thank for commenting.
Great job lining that pin up before gearcase removal! Most guys miss this, just pull the unit down and mangle/bust the pin. This pin is very important, it secures the crankcase lower seal pieces in place, so leaving it out will eventually cause water intrusion into the powerhead... And yes, someone fell asleep at the switch while installing the shift rod connector screw backwards, great way to cause clutch dog damage/shifting problems!Probably best to start the job by draining the lube first, so you know what you are dealing with before you have got it all back together again. Good idea to pull the prop off also, most time you will find fish line back there. It is best to install the impeller into the impeller housing first, to ensure all the blades are properly positioned, then lower the assembly down over the driveshaft and key. Yes, this is more difficult, but you sure don't want to mess up the blades on the new impeller during installation. In this case, you can't go too far wrong, but proper installation technique becomes real important on larger engines and ones with plastic housings/SS liners/ and large orings that seal the housing to the impeller plate. You might want to add some grease to those impeller housing and gearcase screws before installation, the next guy will thankyou...Reinstalling one of these gearcases is a magic act in itself. Having an assistant helps make up for the fact that we don't have four arms and xray vision to ensure everything is lined up. Might be easier to pull the water tube out of the impeller housing and reinstall it up in the exhaust housing prior to installation, but it looks like everything cooperated for you just fine. Proper installation of that shift rod connector screw is so important. Sometimes I spread the connector apart just slightly to ensure the shift rod with slight into it without a fight. You must check the threads on the screw and the brass housing also, these are often stripped, but yours looked fine. There is a little SS special lock washer that should be used also (do not use a plain lockwasher). Installation is a little easier if you pull the gearcase shift rod all the way up into forward gear and push the shift lever into reverse prior to assembly as well. Again, I stress the importance or proper installation, messing up this step will result is clutch dog/gear damage and poor shifting. Needless to say, it's a good idea to have a look at the exhaust housing threads prior to gearcase installation, maybe run a tap through them also. So sorry about the stripped thread, sure have "been there and done that"...Again, don't forget the grease on the gearcase mounting bolts. Your gear lube looked OK, just old and dark, but I did not see any signs of water. Gear lube is cheap, so it should be checked/changed often. I couldn't tell, but was there a sealing washer stuck in the top lube screw hole? I did not see one on the screw. I am old and can't see, so I'm sure there was one there. Nonetheless, this is a common error which results in damage. Each lube/fill screw should have one (and only one) sealing washer. It's a good idea to probe the gearcase housing while the lube is draining, sometimes they are stuck in the housing. Improper installation results in either no sealing washer on one screw or one screw with two of them....In either event, this results in lube leaking out/water leaking into the gearcase. Can't wait to hear this thing run, your efforts are indeed worthwhile...Great job with the camera up inside that housing, was very clear and easy to see, much better than my eyes could have done on their own...
You are good!! Yes you are right!! I had to order new sealing washers for the gear case those didn't have any. I thought one was stuck to the motor but I just ordered two. My OEM points are still back ordered. So I did order a set from Wholesale Marine the Sierra brand I have never used that kind before but I want to see if this motor will start. Maybe my back order will get here some day. And thank you for sharing all your years of experience with us.
I have heard complaints about the Sierra points, you might be better off waiting for the OEM stuff. I looked up the points part number: 580148, says "unavailable" which seems hard to believe. The tune up kit part number is 172522 and is probably available at most local OMC/BRP dealers. I did find some of the OMC points on ebay:www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xomc+580148.TRS0&_nkw=omc+580148&_sacat=0
So glad to find help. Thanks to both of you. I had some water in the lower unit of my 86 6hp evinrude when I drained it. Got some new seals for the drain plug and vent plug. Hoping this is the problem but as I pumped new oil in the lower unit I noticed some oil coming out of the water inlet as the oil reached the top of the lower unit. Thought that was strange and wondered if that is something either of you have experienced. Thanks a bunch.
@@bigred4802 any time you leave a question for someone hit the thumbs up for them, it sends them a notification and they may check it. I would like to know the answer to that also so I hit the thumbs up.
Excellent comment to a great series of videos. I will be ordering seals for my lower unit vent/fill plugs now, as I have water getting in. I also struggled with seating the lower unit, particularly with RE-coupling the shift linkage. Raising the lower linkage with a pair of pliers got it done for me.
Great video........now to tackle the job.......hope all goes well........wish you were one of my river buds.......
I am only a message away. Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay Well.
Very well done Sir... THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME AND SHARING ...
Thanks for watching always happy to help.
Stay Safe.
Thank you very much. I learned so much from your videos. You took a lot of the fear out of taking a old motor apart.
No I can try to tackle points and condenser on a 18 horse Evinrude
Glad to help, Stay Safe
Thanks for the help, Paul in Maine
Great video. You make it easy to follow along as you make the repair.
I try! When I am watching someone do something I want to see how they did it. Not just the finished product that does not help. That is what my videos are you can see how I repaired it.
Hvala za poklonjeno znanje.
Thanks for free knowledge
Greetings from Serbia
Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay Safe!!
You know your stuff! I do wish you'd think ahead about telling us what you're about to do before doing it, and using good terminology about the parts or the pieces in the unit, or that you're installing into the unit. Thanks for your videos!
Will do!
This is the exact video I needed.
Thank you so much. You really helped me out. Now I can get back to fishing
Glad I could help!
Man I have to say ,you do make it look easy ,thank you very much ,
You are very welcome. Its not that bad of a job. Thanks for watching. Stay Safe.
Good and helpful mate pulled a fifty apart yesterday no water coming out some ones put wrong impeller in with out the key when it should have a wedge stye impeller with a wedge brought the boat for 100 dollars so I can,t complain.
Happy that it help and great job on the impeller.
Great information! You just earned a big LIKE and SUBSCRIBE for two reasons: The straightforward instructions and your kind manner. Greetings from Seward Alaska.
Thanks for the sub! Keep watching. Stay Safe.
Good vid. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching! Stay Safe.
Great video! I happened to pickup a 1968, 6hp Evinrude fisherman a few years ago, so I'll be putting this info to great use.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I let my son use the fisherman I have not seen it for about a year now. Must still be running or it would have came back. Lol
Where are you sourcing the vintage parts?? Thanks Dan
Thanks for the video, it was very very helpfull
Happy to help. Thanks for commenting and as always keep watching.
Cheers mate from the Tay in Scotland
Just found your channel!! Sweet videos, I too mess about with outboards in my shed!! All the best phil from the UK
Phil thanks for sharing that we have the same interest. Thanks for watching and keep bringing the old outboards back to life. Stay Safe!!!
Is there a prefered direction if rotation installing a new impeller?? Thanks. Dan Dandahermit
Gr8 video. I did mines a month ago. The pin on the top of the shaft took me over two dozen shakes and twists to get off. Also, my shift screw threads was stripped, so I replaced one screw. But I can't remember if I used a stainless screw or not, so I'll be taking it apart again.
It probably took me that many too. I just edit out the boring part of me fighting with it.
Always good, informative vids....thanks.
Happy to help, and thanks for watching and commenting. Stay Safe!!
Love you Buddy.....You talk, exactly as I do! LOL Having said that, did you ever do a Video on redoing your wiring? I have a New Fuse Panel for my Boat, and I was going to redo mine as well. Just wondering.....if you did yours, if you did a Video? Love your style! Cheers
Where does the damper gasket fit?? It a black gasket and was with my impeller kit.
Good helpful video.
But always replace new nylon washers when changing gear case oil and make sure the old ones are removed, sometimes they get left behind.
Thanks for sharing the tip. Helping each other is what it is all about.
Did you use any gasket sealant anywhere, I didn't notice? Is a gasket at the impeller not that important? Or sealing the lower unit back in place?
Wow !
Love your videos!
Thanks for commenting. Stay Healthy!!
Keep it up and keep on fixing 😎
What year is the motor please? It seems the 5.5's are the ones everyone else says you need to remove the powerhead? I'm hopeful the one I need to do can be done like the way you are doing this one!
Just got 2 for 10$ one 6 Johnston one 6 evenrude fisherman this helpful thanku 🇦🇺
Sounds like you might have found the deal of the day. Be sure and let me know how they run.
@@OmFishing yes sir thanku found them at the tip shop LOL
Super video 👍👍
Thanks for commenting.
Nice Video - thank you for making and uploading
What oil is used in the gear box and what adaptor is used to refill the gearbox ?
Best regards
They sell a pump with the lower unit oil. Walmart sells it
@@OmFishing Thank you Om Fishing , I live in Ireland and we don't have Walmart !!
Great video. Did you have to remove the power head in order to remove the lower unit?
No I did not take the power head off to replace the impeller. Thanks for watching.
Hi I live in Zimbabwe and I need an impeller for .y jhonson 40hp seahorse. Where can I order a ew one from and how much are they?
What year is that 6 HP Fisherman? The 5.5 HP and early 60's required pulling the POWERHEAD to drop the lower; they didn't have the two-piece shift rod like yours. OMC Seven and a Half and Ten and bigger motors had the access cover and coupler.
That's what I was thinking. My seloc manual says I need to pop the powerhead off. I have a 5522 (1961 5.5 Fisherman). Any advice?
Have a 76 Johnson 6hp replaced the water pump and the shift linkage keeps popping off the collor of the lower unit any information would be appreciated. videos are very informative keep em coming .
Thank you for those good videos I have a 1974 6hp evirude I changed the impeller but my dosen't have the pin on the shaft it's that normal on that year thank you for your help
On the models I have worked on they have had the impeller pin. This way when the shaft rotates the impeller turns and pumps water. Was there a pin on the shaft to make the impeller turn when the shaft rotates. If it is pumping water when the engine is running sounds like you got it. Thanks for watching and stay safe!!
keep going up man 😃 watching you from kuwait 😁
Thanks for watching and stay safe!
Great video, thanks man. Just replaced the impeller on my 72' last night.
I'm wondering what you recommend as far as winterizing. It'll be in a metal shed all winter with temps as low as 0° or lower at times. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I like to fog the cylinders and make sure all the water is out of the water pump. There are two trains of thought about running all the gas out of the carb. One you running the engine with very little oil in it when the carb is running empty. Not good running the engine so lean. I have run them till the carb run out of gas for years before I was told I am running the engine with no oil doing that. I don't do it any more.
I appreciate the reply! How do you make sure all the water is out of the pump? Do you pull it out and dry it or just run it dry for a few seconds?
@@galenrobinson9993 I just leave it hang straight down for a while and the water will drain out. Sometimes if you tilt the motor water will get trapped.
Is the Evinrude 5 horse Angler the same way to replace the water pump?
Evinrude follows the same design for most of the outboards. Sometimes the shift linkage unhooks a little different but the water pump is about the same design.
What year is this motor?
Does the impeller go in the water pump clock wise or counter clockwise? What would happen if it was in the wrong way? Thank you.
The engine is turning clockwise. If you oil the impeller when installing it. It will help it stay cool till the water is up into it. My opinion is the oil would let the blades change direction if it was in wrong.
I just a got a boat that came with a 6hp Fisherman. The previous owner said it needed a water pump.
Water pump really is not a hard job. Good luck
I have replaced the water pump impeller twice. All seems good. water inlet screen is good. Srill no water at exhaust. No water at thermostadt. What is your suggested next step??? 1973 6 hp Johnson: 6R73S.
The first step would be does the water pump work. I have taken the lower unit off and put it in water and turned the shaft to see if the pump is pumping to start with. Can you run water from the hose in the inlet where the water pump connects to the bottom of the motor. Does the water come out then? Let me know!
The little t-shaped impeller on the key on the impeller when you put it in make sure it doesn't turn sideways on you and otherwise you won't be able to get the thing closed so look at that slid into the slot correctly it will turn sideways
Thanks for sharing the tip.
What kind of gear oil type do you use in lower? Brand too?
I just use the lower unit kit from Wal mart. I change mine every spring so I don't worry about the oil that much.
Do you know what year that Fisherman was in the video please?
Great info. Thanks. Do you know if this is the same as a 85 6hp evinrude?
The assembly is the same, but when I looked up the impeller the part number is different.
@@OmFishing thanks a bunch sir. You're the best. Appreciate the videos.
What gear does it need to be in when you pull the lower unit
I pull mine with the shifter in reverse. Thanks for watching.
@@OmFishing thank uou
how long is that pin you knock out on the upper shaft thank you
The pin was only about a inch long. If you look up the motor shaft you can see the slot it goes in. If you needed the exact length I am not sure. Thanks for watching and Stay Well.
Is this the same process for the 5520 1960? Or do I have to pull the powerhead off?
You do not need to take the power head off. The lower unit comes apart, not at the gear case about a third of the way up the lower unit. Stay safe.
Thank you for the video, I have a Jhonson 6hp that I get for free, can you tell me how I know the year of the motor and where I can get replacement parts any info will be appreciate thank !!!
I buy some of my parts from boatnet.com and the best way for the year of the motor is my video.
ua-cam.com/video/vaHL-nDYgVk/v-deo.html
Man I just need to ask I just opened four of these same kind of water pump and every single one had the lower unit goop sealant from the factory. What I’m asking is should we be put something like 3m 847 on the under side of the impeller plate to creat the first good vacuum to get the water flowing in????
I don't know of any service manual that tells you to do that. I don't know if it would make it work better or not.
@@OmFishing Brandon's garage goops everything he is i am told a master outboard certified mech
When you install the new water pump if the fens are bowed the wrong direction will the water pump still pump water?
I believe it will work but will not last as long. I think that would make a good video. Keep watching and it will be coming up.
Om Fishing so I’ve talked to a couple boat mechanics and they said that as long as you lube up the inside of the rubber water pump and the top housing that even if it was pointing in the wrong Direction it should flip the little rubber ears in the right direction!
What kind of oil did you use for this motor? And what is the gas to oil ratio?
I use quick silver and mix it 50/1. Stay Safe!
Hi there are 2 tiny holes in the water tube going up from my water pump is that to release some water pressure from the system especially when running the engine at high speeds? Can anybody reply please before I plug them up.
Thanks!
is thier a rubber washer or gasket in the hole for the water pipe ?
Yes their is a grommet in the impeller housing.
Love your videos, I have a question. I recently put a water pump in a 1972 Evinrude 9.5 sportwin. My question is, the little o ring on top of the drive shaft stayed in the powerhead, how do I remove it? Thanks in advance, Chuck
When I looked it up the only o ring is the one above the water pump. The o ring at the top, is the lower seal. If we are talking about the lower seal there are some videos on you tube on getting that out with out pulling off the power head. I have not tried that yet. I have only taken the power head off to remove this one. Let me Know if we are talking about the same thing. Thanks for watching.
@@OmFishing no, on the 1972 when you pull the lower unit out, there's an O ring on the drive shaft (top) the first time I pulled it, the O ring was on the shaft. Then I pulled it a second time and the O ring stayed up by the powerhead. I believe the O ring is to prevent water from rusting the drive shaft. I haven't seen any information about this anywhere.. If I find out anything I will definitely let you know....
@@chuckcecconi4571 Check out this link.
www.boats.net/catalog/evinrude/outboard-by-year/1972/9222m/gearcase
@@OmFishing yes number one.. that's on top of the drive shaft
I have a 1966 6hp 6602B Evinrude. I’m having issues with removing lower unit. I am able to loosen and lower it, however I can’t remove it. I did notice I don’t have the bolt for the linkage connector. Any other ideas would help!
I think on that model the shift linkage is under the power head connected to the shift handle.
hello i am once again searching for your r knowledge i recently replaced the fuel line for my 6hp johnson 1979 i noticed someone says, the fuel line, from the tank, is a different size than the one to the motor i just made it all the same ,is this ok ? also second question i mistakenly heated the coil wire on my 58 10hp from a heat gun it melted the rubber very slightly ,,it still has a spark ,,silly newbee mistake i dont have a fly wheel puller ,and is the spark plug wire seperate from the coil or not ,,i am realy enjoying my new hobbie,, at seventy ,its a great pass the time ...thank s
I think as long as it is not leaking it would be ok. The wire inside is not hurt. Just make sure you don't have something that is going to shock you on the water. Stay Safe.
I have a 70 sportwin 9.5hp evinrude when I turn the handle to give It gas it works ok then the handle hit a spot where it dose nothing I keep turning it a little more then it works ok motor speeds up everything fine is this the way it should be or is something out of wack and you have good videos thanks
When you are turning the handle to give it gas does the linkage stop moving on the motor at the same point that the motor does nothing. Then start moving again.
yeah that's what its doing
I would first check on the motor end of the tiller handle. The inner control shaft gear and the vertical control shaft gear. Make sure that they are tight on the shaft and not loose or damaged. Then keep following the linkage for signs of ware.
ok I will look at that
Thank you sir for sharing your knowledge new sub for sure do you happen to have a video on how I can look up info on the motor ex. How to look up to model number and where I’d go to look up the info.
Check out my video {Evinrude year by model number.} and also you can look it up on boat net and it will show the complete engine break down.
Om Fishing thank you much not sure why you don’t have way more subs great video content thanks again
I like to use boat net. The have a good break down of all parts. Thanks for watching and stay safe.
I have a 30hp and what to adjust the linkage. Is it 13/32 just like the 9.9hp motor?
Want to adjust
The only adjustment for the 30 that I know of is make sure when the shift handle in in neutral adjust the distance between the bottom of the neutral start switch and the top of the plunger to 1/16 inch.
My shaft is stuck what do I do
So far I have never run into one that I could not get out. There are a lot of videos on youtube that good ideas. I use a lot of WD140 when I am going to work on a motor. Some time when I can I start spraying a week or two before I start. I don't have a secret for a stuck shaft. Stay Safe.
How do I know what way the motor will turn shaft, sorry I'm an old carpenter. LOL
Believe they all turn Clockwise.
Finds super big nugge
Spray it down with soapy water first goes on easier
Thanks for sharing a great tip. Stay Safe.
Yep he did it again.if you can't get it done.then you should get help.
Video is good .but you have not shown how you are pouring the oil
I did not video that part. I will be sure to include it in the next lower unit I work on. Thanks for bring that to my attention. Stay Well
The motor should be in neutral for this instal correct
You might have to move the shiftert back and forth to get the shifting linkage together. It would be better if the gear case is in neutral.
@@OmFishing You are right sir ! Put the gearcase in neutral before mating back the 2 lower unit parts but lowering the shifting rod by putting the top gear selector in reverse will allow for easier access to the shiftrod connector bolts. Just dial the selector back in neutral as you are pushing the lower unit in for those last few centimeters.
Thanks for the information, that is what it is all about helping each other. Keep watching and Stay Safe.
THE IMPELLER LOOKS TO BIG . YOU MASHED IT SIDE DOWN IN THE HOUSING !!! IT MAST OF SLIPPED IN PLACE ; I SAY GOOD VIDEO !!
It might not of been graceful but it's in there. Thanks for watching and Stay Safe!!
Did anyone see that spider?
I did not see it till you said something about it. Lol
Sorry....My comment was suppoed to have gone, to another Video, that focused on an INBOARD! LOL
Thumbs up and subscribe paid sir.
Thank you it means a lot to me.
Crazy way to fill with oil. Put bottom screw in and fill from top until it overflows! Let it drip until it stops then replace the FILLER SCREW!
I know that seem odd to fill from the bottom. All the service manuals say do it that way. I assume that it is to keep out air pockets. Thanks for watching and commenting!
quit watching...too many ads...I refuse to watch videos with ads any longer
The only way creators can keep making videos and posting free for all is to let advertisers to post on there videos. Sorry you feel that way.
@@OmFishing bullshit. There are tons of vids that have ZERO ads. It's just greed to put that many ads in.
@@froodogga7053 get adblock or quit bitchin about it ya goober