I just bought a Craiglist 1996 Wellcraft 160 CCF w/ 48 hp Evinrude which I'm restoring. I decided I should rebuild the water pump, and after watching your vid, it doesn't seem to be too difficult. Your common-sense approach and explanation makes it easy for most of us laypersons to understand what it will take and gives us the confidence to move forward! Thanks so much!
I just took it out today and the water pump worked great but we had some fuel problems. We just viewed your vid about using gravity to assist the primer bulb, which I'll be implementing tomorrow, with a new fuel line. Also, I'll be adding a clear in-line fuel filter between the bulb and fuel pump. Plz let me know about your t-shirt effort as t-shirts are standard dress here in Austin, Tx. Thanks again!
I'm glad you put these videos up! I have almost completely rebuilt a 25 seahorse that has set for 9 year from watching these videos alone. It was in really bad shape when I started but she's running like a 2019 now
Stu..thanks for your systematic, clear manners of teaching by step by step teaching. Very helpful and informative. I feel empowered by your knowkedge! Bravo..!
Water pump kits is probably the best video of all to make on different models as there are so many out there including me that need to see it done before giving it a go. Just about anyone can change a spark plug or fuel line or lower unit oil but all the different set ups (specifically the shift linkage/ or the hidden bolts under the trim tab or turning the driveshaft clockwise etc, what the best gasket sealers etc etc etc) you are providing the confidence to quite a few do it yourselfers . Thanks again Stu!!!
Fake Name Great Story. Last boat I put in new reed valves (a credit to watching this channel) only to have the lower part of the drive shaft snap later at the pinion gear. Made the decision to get another used boat . So yes I love watching Stu's channel . Some things I will back away from like the lower unit . All the gears and bearings still intimidate me which is ok because regardless I now have a better understanding of how forward and reverse is delivered.
Btw, Stu actually has a video on when it may be time to give up on an old outboard which I had to do. I had a 1987 nissan 70hp which was a great motor for a lot of years but once the driveshaft broke and I looked everywhere trying to find one, I made that decision. Parts of any significance were already hard to find for that motor,,,eg. you could get an impeller, but you couldn't get a total water pump kit,,,, etc, etc....
wanted to say thanks for a thorough lesson on changing out a water pump kit. idid it and tested it this afternoon and all was well and give you much credit. couldnt have done it without your help thankyou
Greetings from South Carolina, U.S.A. I'm an old timer and started turning wrenches a long time ago. Back then metrics were not commonly used here in the states. I know people say the metric system is easier (not for me) so a 1/4 inch by 20 T.P.I.tap is something I understand. I enjoy your videos and the easy fun way you present them ... Best of luck to you.
I find the US measurements are better for construction materials like lumber, drywall, screws, etc. but metric is easier for mechanical things. From Ontario, 🇨🇦.
Wow perfect timing! Since the last time we had talked, i just started changing the water pump on my 93 johnson 30 hp. Ive been piecing together videos from all other sources online. This means ive been kind of "wingin it." Im so glad you did this video. Thank you Stu!
One question though. Do i really need to have the drive shaft spacer? I noticed when i took of the lower unit that the drive shaft spacer had warped and melted from the over heating. I had to cut it off in order to fix the water pump.
Very good question. I don't really know the answer (others may) but most outboards don't have it so I'm not really sure that it does. If yours was running with the spacer so badly damaged then it can't be critical.
Stu,awhile back I messaged you concerning my Johnson outboard motor.your videos on that Johnson 30 you were working on helped greatly...and It took me while to fix as there was a lot wrong with it. I am happy to report that it runs like top. Thanks!!!
Thanks mate. The instructions that came with this kit were pretty good but I did notice that the bit about putting that o-ring I missed was the final sentence of a long paragraph so they do need to be read carefully. Something I never do!
Just wanted to say thank you, I changed my water pump on my 25hp Evenrude (got the same kit from Marine Engine . com) and I could never get any water out the "tell Tail", after going through the procedure 3 time I checked your old videos and you mentioned priming and none priming pumps. I took off the water ears and put the motor in a barrel of water and everything worked great. Thanks Again
Hey Stu Thanks for this video. I have been subscribed since about 6 months before Renko come along. This video really helped me out today as I couldn't workout where the gear selector was joined. Cheers.
Just finished replacing the water pump on my 1973 50hp Johnson. Was certain it was going to explode when I got it all back together but it didn't! Worked great
Thank you for this, and all the other, very educational videos. They have helped me a lot. I found in my outboard shop manual for Johnson/Evinrude that the torque on the six bolts on the pump house should be 60 - 80 lb/in or 6.8 - 9.5 Nm. I have an Evinrude Elan 1996 35 hp, 3 cyl. two stroke outboard. I have learned during my time as an technical engineer that it is not necessary to use packing cement in addition to a gasket. The shop manual tells me to use OMC Gasket Sealing Compound, and I can´t see why. Maybe it´s for keeping the gaskets in place while assembling. When I dismantled the waterpump system, there was no sign of that compound. I hope my english language is ok.
Hello Great videos. I followed your procedure. And I, like you, had to flip the impeller. I wondered which way it went in. I watched your video closely and put it in upside down as you did. Then towards the end when you were adding the keyway, I saw the it was corrected. Just thought I'd point that out. Great videos
Hi Stu. Firstly, just want to say on behalf of all amateur and wannabe boat mechanics. THANKS. You vids are informative but above all, practical. I cleaned and tuned my carbs after your video. Now. Will this video apply to my 70hp Johnston. I think it's an early 80s model. Again. Much thanks.
Make sure when you put the lower unit back on that the shift rod on the lower unit is sccrew all the way into the lower unit before you connect it back the the rod on the motor. If you don’t your linkage will be off and it won’t shift into forward gear. Learned this the hard way
Excellent video and presentation. Thanks. One general comment about some shift linkages to emphasize. When I tried removing my lower unit, it wouldn't come out until I completely removed the shift linkage bolt. This was on a Johnson 15hp. I assumed the shift rod was simply "clamped", but it is also mechanical held in place by the bolt which engages a tapered portion of the shift rod which isn't visible until disassembled.
After pump rebuild, your suggestion in another video, to test operation, don’t use earmuffs! My 25 horse was not self prime you need full immersion of the shaft.Mine would not pee out the hole otherwise.
Nice video again gearcase turned out nice from where you started. That salt water sure makes a mess of things. I just did the same water pump at the marine dealership I work at in Michigan, USA a few weeks ago, and the torque Johnson and Evinrude list for those water pump bolts in the service manual is 60 to 84 inch pounds. I do not know what that converts to in Newton Meters. That's a very common torque spec for Johnson and Evinrude outboards when I comes to the 1/4 inch X 20 T.P.I fasteners. I have never used Adhesive M Evinrude calls for on their water pumps either usually I will use bellows adhesive which works good. The main thing is to secure the O-ring in the proper location during assembly. The reason I will use Mercury bellows adhesive is it's handy because half of the stuff I do is sterndrive and I have lots of MerCruisers kicking around. Thanks again for the great video.
Thought I was on the wrong video for a few minutes in the beginning there :-). Dropped my phone in the water (second time it's happened now lol) just after the video where you cleaned up that lower unit. Good to be back and catching up on your videos.
You have helped so much befor . Had a obsolete gasket made for my 1998 johnson 9.9 four stroke outboard. Put it all back together. Still gets hot . Do you know where the timming marks line up ??? All information i can find doesn't tell me where crack mark lines up with ... put it where the info i could get said .. still hot.. put it back where it was when I took apart still hot ... everything new gaskets, thermostat, water pump impeller, and all electrics as well. Don't know what to do??
The sealant Jonson / BRP are referring to is 3M's 847 compound! Well at least nowadays it's what BRP recommends . It's a quick drying "sticky right away" sealant, very effective to hold rubber seals and o-rings to any surfaces but can quickly become a mess if you apply a slight bit too much of it lol. Sealant must resist to vibrations/water/petrol residues/big and fast temperature changes and must not disintegrate. That's why I suggest you install the housing "cup" twisting in the impeller first, then slide the housing on top afterwards, since twisting while applying pressure on the housing seal vs lower plate might overspill the sealant onto the plate which will create a friction later on between the impeller and the spilled sealant on the plate, premature failure. Just saying
I watched your video before and started to rebuild mine and wound up with a spare O ring. I'll be danged if I did the same thing you did, then I had to take it all apart and put it under the stainless steel impeller cup. LOL The instructions did not emphasize that step. Really great on the rest however. You did it better in your video. LOL
Great video! Very helpful. At 7:35 you say to rotate the impeller CCW. How important is that? I always thought that would self correct, whichever way you put it in. But after toasting a new impeller (on a Johnson 30) that I most likely rotated the wrong way I'm not so sure anymore.
Hello, Thank You for all the videos !! My question is: Do you have to remove the carburetors to access the shift linkage to change the impeller on a 1990 Johnson GT150 J150STLESB? Thank You!!
Dear what is the purpose of the keeper underneath the linkage gearbox joint. I lost the nylon tapered keeper can I replace it with a small O ring please so the linkage nut will not slip off? Thanks in advance, very informative video
Very helpful! Thank you. I'm about to change out an impeller on a 78 johnson 35hp for the first time. This is the first outboard I have worked on beyond changing spark plugs. I opened the box of replacement parts and was sure the impeller was the wrong size! Thanks for showing how it all works together. I am a little concerned about getting the gasket sealant right. Hoping a quick look around the auto parts store will sort me out. Thanks again!
Just to let you know. I found myself unsubscribed from your channel. I did not do it. I enjoy all of your videos and learn a lot. Thank you for all your hard work.
So I have just received my first boat. It is a 1976 Manatee with a 70HP Johnson. I was told the fuel pump was bad but haven't had a chance to go through it all. I knew it was a project when I got it. Should I go ahead and redo the water pump and impeller as a precaution? It has been sitting for about 18 months.
I like the how to on the thread pitch. I've been looking at getting a tap and dia set. Finished my fuel tank video. Fun project and amazing the fuel gauge works
Looks like I get to make a video on changing the impeller on my Yamaha 4hp 4 stroke tomorrow. No pee at all so took it apart. Looked like it exploded inside the housing. Rubber chunks everywhere even down in the water pickup vent holes. Inside of the housing was chewed up so replacing both.
Yes did that. Found bits down in the vent holes and ran a small wire up the tube to the motor. Then blew everything out. Test ran it and used today fishing. Ran great
Thanks for the great video and helpful instructions. Unfortunately, I have run into a problem with the reinsertion of the drive shaft into the gearbox. It feels as if there is resistance from some kind of liquid in. The gear shaft only goes in about 1/3 of the way. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks
Thanks for the video! When I just recently replaced my water pump on my 81 johnson 35hp I have been struggling with the shift rod and getting it to get the boat to go into forward. I have dropped the lower unit multiple times and put it back together sometimes it will go into forward on the first time and then no longer after that. Reverse is working great! Any advice? Thanks!
HI My friend, congratulation you have very good Videos. I have a Johnson J*RCSS 7,5hp 1980 that I have overheated. I have changed the water pump and head gasket. The water pump is working well, however, I could not improve compression (50 PSI). How hard is it to change rings in that motor? May I change rings or do I need to rectify cylinders too? DO you recommend it for a biginner?
GOT A QUESTION. With the painting of the leg and having to tap the bolt holes due to paint overspray. Why dont you just insert some bolts flush to the holes. Even if you have to make your own flush bolts. Just an idea. great vid.
Gotcha, I'm about to give it a try now. One more thing, for now...if I don't want to take out all the gears, can I remove Just the driveshaft to replace the seals? And again man thank you so much..your videos saved my ass!
I have a 1998 4 stroke 9.9 johnson outboard. It squares water out the small hose but doesn't have any water coming out the exhaust of the prop . Tested thermostat in a pot of water it opens ... what do you think is wrong ?????
I enjoy your vedios, I tried to replace the waterpump on 1993 Johnson 30hp but nothing that I tried would get the waterpump to work, I did everything that you said to do and it still will not pump. Any help would be very thankful
after following your steps the motor seems to be highly revved, and it is not the speed throtttle, and ideas what can be the issues please? also is it normal that the water pump is too tight that the blades bend when inserted?
Going to replace my johnson 35 hp water pump the older working finw but I've new kit and dont know when last tim older owner replace it so gonna replace it to make sure
great vid. I think the stumpy end of the impeller key needs to point in the direction of the impeller travel. To achieve that the impeller is removed - flipped and reinserted (while rotating anticlockwise). I'm going off memory, and could be wrong. I really don't think it'll make much diff, and to fix it would be a huge pain in the _ss now that it is assembled :)
From memory it is pretty hard to get it in the wrong way as the impeller has a wedge shaped hole for it to go in. If the wedge is around the wrong way the it wont fit under the impeller. It's a good point though that I should have mentioned. I'll take a look next time.
Painting bottom end put dab of grease at top of each bolt thread will prevent paint from sticking or thread a bolt in a few turns to prevent paint from getting in hole.
Yes every video is helpful,but just can't seem to find a video on a specific motor such as the 1992 Johnson 48spl.the bearing carrier is so much different than most and can't pull it out.iv tried everyymethod shown.i must be doing something wrong.as I am new at a boat motor,but mechanically inclined.would appreciate some ideas or even show you repairing one.thanks.the motor is a j48esenlb is mod.number.i need to see exactly how and what your doing.on this particular motor.i havnt seen any other units like mine almost similar but its just not it.thanx would greatly appreciate your input.be safe
Always interesting and I like how you make do with what you have , I realize that sometimes you have to use a factory made tool but sometimes improvising can work just as well, no fn around with you , do what it takes to get the job done right : )
I have this motor and I replaced the water pump and impeller. After the exchange, I do not run forward !! Reverse works fine. It feels high works in the water, but my forward gear does not jump. what did i do wrong and what should i check? BR Remi
I have a Johnson 35hp, to remove the lower unit, the shift rod extending up through the the exhaust housing, is there a disconnection that needs to be made under the carburetor or can the unit just slide off by only removing all the bolts as seen on this video?
Is this process similar for a Tohatsu motor? or should i check out the other videos that you mentioned? getting psyched up for doing something that i should have done like 10 times by now...
I have a slight issue, it seems I do not have a drive shaft spacer, the very last thing you installed with the small o rings. Mine is an 81 Johnson Seahorse 35 hp, am I supposed to have one?
I ordered an impeller for a 35 early 80's and it was totally wrong. Listing said 35 and higher. It looks like this with a D shaft and not a key and pump had 6 holes. Looks like they made a change in later production.
ive got a mid 80s 28hp spl johnson(model info is worn off), theres no shift linkage disconnect in the lower end. lower end also comes apart in 2 spots. one just below the exaust, and second about 10 inches lower, almost like a spacer piece. Ever seen this and know how to disconnect linkage? think it might be in the engine compartment, behind and below carb.
I got a 20hp evenruid from the mid 80's same set up as this ...I'm noticing the oil seal under the water pump needs replacing...is it just like doing it on the prop end like in one of your other videos? And do they have a specic name for that seal so I can look up part online to order...your bids are awesome thanks man, super helpfull
It's interesting to hear you say that as I was thinking of getting rid of them. My worry is that people find them first and think they all have the same audio / editing quality.
i got up to the last step, but can't get the bottom half to fully fit inside the top half.. im guessing splines arent lining up but no matter how much i wiggle it and rotate the prop the middle bolts wont meet up.. any ideas?
Love watching your videos, saves me a ton of money. I am working on a 1987 johnson 30 and I have 2 square nuts (similar to a motorcycle battery terminal nut) that have fallen out. I don't know where they go. I'm hoping you might know. Thanks for any help!
Hi, good videos! I have a minimal oil lost by the hole that is located next to the oil level screw. Do you know if it's gear oil? or if it is for something else related to a stamp? thank you very much, greetings
Hey, I took off the lower unit, and the copper water pipe fell out. Turns out it’s rubber gasket wasn’t there and it’s bent so the last guy did it wrong. I was wondering how do you get the gasket back in the water pump. Someone said you have to take off the lower head... I really don’t want to do that yet if I don’t have too...
It depends what holds it in really, I'm not sure for this motor. You may need to take the powerhead off to secure it properly unless the gasket goes around the pipe and is a press fit. If that's the case you may just be able to push it in from below if it is straight.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
4 years later and this video is still a GEM! Used it multiple times. Thanks so much for sharing
I just bought a Craiglist 1996 Wellcraft 160 CCF w/ 48 hp Evinrude which I'm restoring. I decided I should rebuild the water pump, and after watching your vid, it doesn't seem to be too difficult.
Your common-sense approach and explanation makes it easy for most of us laypersons to understand what it will take and gives us the confidence to move forward! Thanks so much!
You're welcome mate, good luck with the job. :)
I just took it out today and the water pump worked great but we had some fuel problems. We just viewed your vid about using gravity to assist the primer bulb, which I'll be implementing tomorrow, with a new fuel line. Also, I'll be adding a clear in-line fuel filter between the bulb and fuel pump. Plz let me know about your t-shirt effort as t-shirts are standard dress here in Austin, Tx. Thanks again!
I'm glad you put these videos up! I have almost completely rebuilt a 25 seahorse that has set for 9 year from watching these videos alone. It was in really bad shape when I started but she's running like a 2019 now
Stu..thanks for your systematic, clear manners of teaching by step by step teaching. Very helpful and informative. I feel empowered by your knowkedge! Bravo..!
Great to hear!
Water pump kits is probably the best video of all to make on different models as there are so many out there including me that need to see it done before giving it a go. Just about anyone can change a spark plug or fuel line or lower unit oil but all the different set ups (specifically the shift linkage/ or the hidden bolts under the trim tab or turning the driveshaft clockwise etc, what the best gasket sealers etc etc etc) you are providing the confidence to quite a few do it yourselfers .
Thanks again Stu!!!
Fake Name Great Story. Last boat I put in new reed valves (a credit to watching this channel) only to have the lower part of the drive shaft snap later at the pinion gear. Made the decision to get another used boat . So yes I love watching Stu's channel . Some things I will back away from like the lower unit . All the gears and bearings still intimidate me which is ok because regardless I now have a better understanding of how forward and reverse is delivered.
Btw, Stu actually has a video on when it may be time to give up on an old outboard which I had to do. I had a 1987 nissan 70hp which was a great motor for a lot of years but once the driveshaft broke and I looked everywhere trying to find one, I made that decision. Parts of any significance were already hard to find for that motor,,,eg. you could get an impeller, but you couldn't get a total water pump kit,,,, etc, etc....
Thanks mate, glad the vids are helping you. :)
wanted to say thanks for a thorough lesson on changing out a water pump kit. idid it and tested it this afternoon and all was well and give you much credit. couldnt have done it without your help thankyou
Greetings from South Carolina, U.S.A. I'm an old timer and started turning wrenches a long time ago. Back then metrics were not commonly used here in the states. I know people say the metric system is easier (not for me) so a 1/4 inch by 20 T.P.I.tap is something I understand.
I enjoy your videos and the easy fun way you present them ... Best of luck to you.
It's definitely a case of what you are used to.
swimmin' wit da fishes what part of SC? I'm in the same state
Hey Mark C, I'm in Beaufort County just off of Hilton Head.
I find the US measurements are better for construction materials like lumber, drywall, screws, etc. but metric is easier for mechanical things. From Ontario, 🇨🇦.
Wow perfect timing! Since the last time we had talked, i just started changing the water pump on my 93 johnson 30 hp. Ive been piecing together videos from all other sources online. This means ive been kind of "wingin it." Im so glad you did this video. Thank you Stu!
One question though. Do i really need to have the drive shaft spacer? I noticed when i took of the lower unit that the drive shaft spacer had warped and melted from the over heating. I had to cut it off in order to fix the water pump.
Very good question. I don't really know the answer (others may) but most outboards don't have it so I'm not really sure that it does. If yours was running with the spacer so badly damaged then it can't be critical.
Bin the spacer it is to stop water travelling up the shaft. Just put grease or anti seize on the shaft spline
You r the only one that show me witch way the parts impeller goes on and turns. Thank you.
Stu,awhile back I messaged you concerning my Johnson outboard motor.your videos on that Johnson 30 you were working on helped greatly...and It took me while to fix as there was a lot wrong with it. I am happy to report that it runs like top. Thanks!!!
Thanks I replaced mine after watching your video, very well done!
great video. It is always good to see the actual repair versus the written instruction.
Thanks mate. The instructions that came with this kit were pretty good but I did notice that the bit about putting that o-ring I missed was the final sentence of a long paragraph so they do need to be read carefully. Something I never do!
Rewatching the older videos and it's so impressive to see how you and the content has grown to what for me are must watch uploads
Thanks mate. :)
Just wanted to say thank you, I changed my water pump on my 25hp Evenrude (got the same kit from Marine Engine . com) and I could never get any water out the "tell Tail", after going through the procedure 3 time I checked your old videos and you mentioned priming and none priming pumps. I took off the water ears and put the motor in a barrel of water and everything worked great. Thanks Again
You're welcome. :)
@@DangarMarine water ears??
Thanks mate. Another very clear, concise and humorous video
Clear and concise instructions. Outstanding. Thanks for posting
I'm super glad you mentioned you were getting back to boat building. I was wondering about that project. :)
Awesomely done. Methodical, detailed...and love the close up views. You're a pro, mate!
Hey Stu
Thanks for this video. I have been subscribed since about 6 months before Renko come along. This video really helped me out today as I couldn't workout where the gear selector was joined. Cheers.
Just finished replacing the water pump on my 1973 50hp Johnson. Was certain it was going to explode when I got it all back together but it didn't! Worked great
Nice work Peter! :)
Thank you for this, and all the other, very educational videos. They have helped me a lot. I found in my outboard shop manual for Johnson/Evinrude that the torque on the six bolts on the pump house should be 60 - 80 lb/in or 6.8 - 9.5 Nm. I have an Evinrude Elan 1996 35 hp, 3 cyl. two stroke outboard. I have learned during my time as an technical engineer that it is not necessary to use packing cement in addition to a gasket. The shop manual tells me to use OMC Gasket Sealing Compound, and I can´t see why. Maybe it´s for keeping the gaskets in place while assembling. When I dismantled the waterpump system, there was no sign of that compound. I hope my english language is ok.
Hello Great videos. I followed your procedure. And I, like you, had to flip the impeller. I wondered which way it went in. I watched your video closely and put it in upside down as you did. Then towards the end when you were adding the keyway, I saw the it was corrected. Just thought I'd point that out. Great videos
I have a 20 horse Johnson 1989 your videos have come in very helpful I just got my parts today
Glad the vids have helped. Good luck with the job Marcus!
Stu, another great vid, really finding the series useful, much better watching someone doing rather than reading, cheers mate 👍
Great work, your style of presentation and easy structure makes your vids enjoyable and pleasurable to watch.
Thanks for this, rebuilding a water pump on an old Johnson 25, same kit and shaft setup.
"It's showing its age, this poor old outboard..... but then again, aren't we all" -I felt that
Hi Stu. Firstly, just want to say on behalf of all amateur and wannabe boat mechanics. THANKS.
You vids are informative but above all, practical. I cleaned and tuned my carbs after your video.
Now. Will this video apply to my 70hp Johnston. I think it's an early 80s model.
Again. Much thanks.
Great video mate.
Planning to do this same procedure on my Evinrude 15hp.
-Jack
Good luck with the job Jack. :)
Jack, I've got some spare 15 hp Johnson stuff if you need it. I don't need it anymore so I'd be happy to let you have it, free of charge.
Hi from Canada, thank you so much for making this video. it sure helped me out
Glad it helped!
well it almost worked. when I tried to put it back i think the splines aren't lining up. mine is 86 30hp
Make sure when you put the lower unit back on that the shift rod on the lower unit is sccrew all the way into the lower unit before you connect it back the the rod on the motor. If you don’t your linkage will be off and it won’t shift into forward gear. Learned this the hard way
Excellent video and presentation. Thanks. One general comment about some shift linkages to emphasize. When I tried removing my lower unit, it wouldn't come out until I completely removed the shift linkage bolt. This was on a Johnson 15hp. I assumed the shift rod was simply "clamped", but it is also mechanical held in place by the bolt which engages a tapered portion of the shift rod which isn't visible until disassembled.
Another well made video Stu keep up the good work. I like the old Landrover in the background
Thanks mate. The motor went back into that Land Rover last week after being off at the engineer's for a rebuild. Looking forward to firing it up!
After pump rebuild, your suggestion in another video, to test operation, don’t use earmuffs! My 25 horse was not self prime you need full immersion of the shaft.Mine would not pee out the hole otherwise.
Nice video again gearcase turned out nice from where you started. That salt water sure makes a mess of things. I just did the same water pump at the marine dealership I work at in Michigan, USA a few weeks ago, and the torque Johnson and Evinrude list for those water pump bolts in the service manual is 60 to 84 inch pounds. I do not know what that converts to in Newton Meters. That's a very common torque spec for Johnson and Evinrude outboards when I comes to the 1/4 inch X 20 T.P.I fasteners. I have never used Adhesive M Evinrude calls for on their water pumps either usually I will use bellows adhesive which works good. The main thing is to secure the O-ring in the proper location during assembly. The reason I will use Mercury bellows adhesive is it's handy because half of the stuff I do is sterndrive and I have lots of MerCruisers kicking around. Thanks again for the great video.
Thanks James, appreciate you passing on the torque specs. :)
Thanks for the video. This was a huge help doing my 35 Johnson
As always Stu, another awesome video! This motor is coming together and looking great!
Thanks Jack!
Thank you so much man! worked like a charm and this video made it easy.
Hope the new owner is enjoying this quality rebuild :)
Thought I was on the wrong video for a few minutes in the beginning there :-).
Dropped my phone in the water (second time it's happened now lol) just after the video where you cleaned up that lower unit. Good to be back and catching up on your videos.
I should have done it like a black and white flashback. ;) Sorry to hear about your phone!
Thanks
You are welcome! Thank you for your donation. :)
Bro step by step thank you your vids are helping alot
Just ordered my t shirt. Yaaaay. Thanks Stu for the instruction.
Cool! Be sure to send me a photo of you wearing it. :)
Thanks for your great videos!
I have a 1989 Johnson 40hp in decent shape that needs lower end seals and impeller.
Do you cover that one?
Thanks
You have helped so much befor . Had a obsolete gasket made for my 1998 johnson 9.9 four stroke outboard. Put it all back together. Still gets hot . Do you know where the timming marks line up ??? All information i can find doesn't tell me where crack mark lines up with ... put it where the info i could get said .. still hot.. put it back where it was when I took apart still hot ... everything new gaskets, thermostat, water pump impeller, and all electrics as well. Don't know what to do??
The sealant Jonson / BRP are referring to is 3M's 847 compound! Well at least nowadays it's what BRP recommends . It's a quick drying "sticky right away" sealant, very effective to hold rubber seals and o-rings to any surfaces but can quickly become a mess if you apply a slight bit too much of it lol. Sealant must resist to vibrations/water/petrol residues/big and fast temperature changes and must not disintegrate. That's why I suggest you install the housing "cup" twisting in the impeller first, then slide the housing on top afterwards, since twisting while applying pressure on the housing seal vs lower plate might overspill the sealant onto the plate which will create a friction later on between the impeller and the spilled sealant on the plate, premature failure. Just saying
I watched your video before and started to rebuild mine and wound up with a spare O ring. I'll be danged if I did the same thing you did, then I had to take it all apart and put it under the stainless steel impeller cup. LOL The instructions did not emphasize that step. Really great on the rest however. You did it better in your video. LOL
Nice video Stu!!!
Great video! Very helpful. At 7:35 you say to rotate the impeller CCW. How important is that? I always thought that would self correct, whichever way you put it in. But after toasting a new impeller (on a Johnson 30) that I most likely rotated the wrong way I'm not so sure anymore.
Hello, Thank You for all the videos !! My question is: Do you have to remove the carburetors to access the shift linkage to change the impeller on a 1990 Johnson GT150 J150STLESB? Thank You!!
NICE !! VERY CLEAN VIDEO TANKS . MINE 88 HP
Dear what is the purpose of the keeper underneath the linkage gearbox joint. I lost the nylon tapered keeper can I replace it with a small O ring please so the linkage nut will not slip off? Thanks in advance, very informative video
Very helpful! Thank you. I'm about to change out an impeller on a 78 johnson 35hp for the first time. This is the first outboard I have worked on beyond changing spark plugs. I opened the box of replacement parts and was sure the impeller was the wrong size! Thanks for showing how it all works together. I am a little concerned about getting the gasket sealant right. Hoping a quick look around the auto parts store will sort me out. Thanks again!
You're welcome Neal, auto parts stores will have everything you need.
Just to let you know. I found myself unsubscribed from your channel. I did not do it. I enjoy all of your videos and learn a lot. Thank you for all your hard work.
Thank Bob. :)
So I have just received my first boat. It is a 1976 Manatee with a 70HP Johnson. I was told the fuel pump was bad but haven't had a chance to go through it all. I knew it was a project when I got it. Should I go ahead and redo the water pump and impeller as a precaution? It has been sitting for about 18 months.
I like the how to on the thread pitch. I've been looking at getting a tap and dia set. Finished my fuel tank video. Fun project and amazing the fuel gauge works
They are handy little kits, that’s for sure.
Looks like I get to make a video on changing the impeller on my Yamaha 4hp 4 stroke tomorrow. No pee at all so took it apart. Looked like it exploded inside the housing. Rubber chunks everywhere even down in the water pickup vent holes. Inside of the housing was chewed up so replacing both.
Good luck with it Tim! Be careful to make sure none of the bits of impeller are stuck in the cooling system blocking it up.
Yes did that. Found bits down in the vent holes and ran a small wire up the tube to the motor. Then blew everything out. Test ran it and used today fishing. Ran great
Thanks for the great video and helpful instructions. Unfortunately, I have run into a problem with the reinsertion of the drive shaft into the gearbox. It feels as if there is resistance from some kind of liquid in. The gear shaft only goes in about 1/3 of the way. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks
Thanks for the video! When I just recently replaced my water pump on my 81 johnson 35hp I have been struggling with the shift rod and getting it to get the boat to go into forward. I have dropped the lower unit multiple times and put it back together sometimes it will go into forward on the first time and then no longer after that. Reverse is working great! Any advice? Thanks!
HI My friend, congratulation you have very good Videos. I have a Johnson J*RCSS 7,5hp 1980 that I have overheated. I have changed the water pump and head gasket. The water pump is working well, however, I could not improve compression (50 PSI). How hard is it to change rings in that motor? May I change rings or do I need to rectify cylinders too? DO you recommend it for a biginner?
Will grease damage the impeller material? is it ok to put some on to help it spin when it's dry on startup?
No, a thin wipe of grease is good for startup lubrication.
Enjoyed the video Stu! Very informative and easy to understand. How often should you change your water pump? Thanks
I would change it about every 100 hours of running.
Your a Legend mate! Another very helpful video.
GOT A QUESTION.
With the painting of the leg and having to tap the bolt holes due to paint overspray. Why dont you just insert some bolts flush to the holes. Even if you have to make your own flush bolts.
Just an idea.
great vid.
Hey, great video, you've helped so much..so did the depth of the driveshaft seals matter? Was there an issue?
To be honest I can't recall, I've only done one of these engines. I would try to get as close to the original position as you can though.
Gotcha, I'm about to give it a try now.
One more thing, for now...if I don't want to take out all the gears, can I remove Just the driveshaft to replace the seals? And again man thank you so much..your videos saved my ass!
I have a 1998 4 stroke 9.9 johnson outboard. It squares water out the small hose but doesn't have any water coming out the exhaust of the prop . Tested thermostat in a pot of water it opens ... what do you think is wrong ?????
I enjoy your vedios, I tried to replace the waterpump on 1993 Johnson 30hp but nothing that I tried would get the waterpump to work, I did everything that you said to do and it still will not pump. Any help would be very thankful
in advance Thank you your videos have helped me greatly.
after following your steps the motor seems to be highly revved, and it is not the speed throtttle, and ideas what can be the issues please? also is it normal that the water pump is too tight that the blades bend when inserted?
Mate, what could have just appeared in the sub box? Dangar!
is there any seal between the leg and lower gearbox housing? Cheers Garry
Great concise instruction. Thanks!
Going to replace my johnson 35 hp water pump the older working finw but I've new kit and dont know when last tim older owner replace it so gonna replace it to make sure
great vid. I think the stumpy end of the impeller key needs to point in the direction of the impeller travel. To achieve that the impeller is removed - flipped and reinserted (while rotating anticlockwise). I'm going off memory, and could be wrong. I really don't think it'll make much diff, and to fix it would be a huge pain in the _ss now that it is assembled :)
From memory it is pretty hard to get it in the wrong way as the impeller has a wedge shaped hole for it to go in. If the wedge is around the wrong way the it wont fit under the impeller. It's a good point though that I should have mentioned. I'll take a look next time.
Should it be in forward, neutral or reverse before I drop it.
Well done mate like always.
Be Safe great Day.
Thanks Manny!
Do the evenrudes not have that drive shaft spacer? Displayed at the end with the 2 smaller O rings?
Hello I have a 1972 Evinrude triumph outboard 65 hp motor. Do you think this would be the same as the motor you did here???
I have the 1985 Evinrude version of this motor (why I found myself here)
Just curious as to the outcome of the restoration on the motor in this video?
Painting bottom end put dab of grease at top of each bolt thread will prevent paint from sticking or thread a bolt in a few turns to prevent paint from getting in hole.
Splendid how to video Stu; Once in a while I like to ask how Eddie is doing. I'm hopping well. Thanks fer another swell video.
Eddie is in the wars at the moment too. Dave has had to spend almost $1000 on vet bills after he got a bad oyster cut on his paw. :(
Yes every video is helpful,but just can't seem to find a video on a specific motor such as the 1992 Johnson 48spl.the bearing carrier is so much different than most and can't pull it out.iv tried everyymethod shown.i must be doing something wrong.as I am new at a boat motor,but mechanically inclined.would appreciate some ideas or even show you repairing one.thanks.the motor is a j48esenlb is mod.number.i need to see exactly how and what your doing.on this particular motor.i havnt seen any other units like mine almost similar but its just not it.thanx would greatly appreciate your input.be safe
Always interesting and I like how you make do with what you have , I realize that sometimes you have to use a factory made tool but sometimes improvising can work just as well, no fn around with you , do what it takes to get the job done right : )
Thanks Adrien!
Arn would call him a wimp and not sign off his apprenticeship if Stu did every job 'by the book'.
I have this motor and I replaced the water pump and impeller. After the exchange, I do not run forward !! Reverse works fine. It feels high works in the water, but my forward gear does not jump. what did i do wrong and what should i check? BR Remi
I have a Johnson 35hp, to remove the lower unit, the shift rod extending up through the the exhaust housing, is there a disconnection that needs to be made under the carburetor or can the unit just slide off by only removing all the bolts as seen on this video?
Another Great Video! Thanks for sharing.
Is this process similar for a Tohatsu motor? or should i check out the other videos that you mentioned? getting psyched up for doing something that i should have done like 10 times by now...
I have a 1993 evinrude 140cxetf counter rotation which way does the water pump impeller should be installed ?
I have a slight issue, it seems I do not have a drive shaft spacer, the very last thing you installed with the small o rings. Mine is an 81 Johnson Seahorse 35 hp, am I supposed to have one?
I don't think it is essential, no.
Hi Stu... what does the spacer do? Is it required? I have seen a number of videos where they don't have them.
I ordered an impeller for a 35 early 80's and it was totally wrong. Listing said 35 and higher. It looks like this with a D shaft and not a key and pump had 6 holes. Looks like they made a change in later production.
ive got a mid 80s 28hp spl johnson(model info is worn off), theres no shift linkage disconnect in the lower end. lower end also comes apart in 2 spots. one just below the exaust, and second about 10 inches lower, almost like a spacer piece. Ever seen this and know how to disconnect linkage? think it might be in the engine compartment, behind and below carb.
I got a 20hp evenruid from the mid 80's same set up as this ...I'm noticing the oil seal under the water pump needs replacing...is it just like doing it on the prop end like in one of your other videos? And do they have a specic name for that seal so I can look up part online to order...your bids are awesome thanks man, super helpfull
It's the drive shaft seal ua-cam.com/video/jTT7QQsXTmA/v-deo.html
Hope you leave the old vids up as well. I believe that is why / when I found your channel.
It's interesting to hear you say that as I was thinking of getting rid of them. My worry is that people find them first and think they all have the same audio / editing quality.
Dangar Marine Maybe make note of the age and quality in the descriptions? Lot of good info and uniqueness to them.
i got up to the last step, but can't get the bottom half to fully fit inside the top half.. im guessing splines arent lining up but no matter how much i wiggle it and rotate the prop the middle bolts wont meet up.. any ideas?
Love watching your videos, saves me a ton of money. I am working on a 1987 johnson 30 and I have 2 square nuts (similar to a motorcycle battery terminal nut) that have fallen out. I don't know where they go. I'm hoping you might know. Thanks for any help!
Great video as usual thanks for the informative video
Hi, good videos! I have a minimal oil lost by the hole that is located next to the oil level screw. Do you know if it's gear oil? or if it is for something else related to a stamp? thank you very much, greetings
It is most likely just two stroke oil coming out through the exhaust. If there isn't any water in the gearbox oil I wouldn't be too worried.
Hey, I took off the lower unit, and the copper water pipe fell out. Turns out it’s rubber gasket wasn’t there and it’s bent so the last guy did it wrong.
I was wondering how do you get the gasket back in the water pump. Someone said you have to take off the lower head... I really don’t want to do that yet if I don’t have too...
It depends what holds it in really, I'm not sure for this motor. You may need to take the powerhead off to secure it properly unless the gasket goes around the pipe and is a press fit. If that's the case you may just be able to push it in from below if it is straight.
Do you have a video about taking off a powerhead?
Modle number is J30ELCDM
You’re awesome mate..cheers for this