Rooting of Fig Cuttings
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- After trying several other methods of rooting fig cuttings, I've settled on using ProMix HP as my favorite media. This material retains adequate moisture but has good porosity and drainage. The exposed portion of cuttings are wrapped with Parafilm (or similar film) to prevent the exposed portion of cuttings from drying out. The pots I use are the TP49 Short One found at I'm using the TP49 Short One at www.stuewe.com...
You can root cuttings pretty much any month of the year if your temperatures are suitable. If rooting indoors, this is much easier to control. If cuttings are dormant at time they are pruned or purchased, they can be stores in refrigeration for several months if you wish to root outdoors and need to wait for warmer temperatures. However, if the cuttings are fresh green cuttings from trees that were not dormant, they should be rooted within a week or two.
I usually root cuttings in a room in my shop that I keep heated to about 75F. If you root in a room cooler than that, you cuttings would probably benefit from the use of a heated propagation mat with temperature set somewhere between 75-85F to speed up root development. My growing room has some exposure to daylight and typically has some grow lights running on other cuttings started earlier. Once leaves start emerging from cuttings, I will run grow lights for 10-12 hours per day with an oscillating fan running in the room to disperse heat from the grow lights.
WATERING:
When I first started rooting fig cuttings I found that many times they rotted on me. Sometimes this was because I had to water quite a bit to get water to get to the bottom of the pot where most of the roots were and I saw a lot dead cuttings had rot on the upper portion of the cutting that had been in soil. So I started bottom watering young plants. Usually I use 4" x 9.5" pots and they set in trays that hold 12 pots so I will usually water the entire tray at the same time to save time, though it's best to water each plant based on its individual needs. The added benefit of watering a pot individually is that you become accustomed to what a pot weighs when the soil is moist (not saturated), a little dry, too dry, etc.) I will dunk these pots into a tub of water that is 3-4 inches deep for anywhere from 5-10 seconds for newer cuttings to 20-30 seconds for plants that are well on their way to being ready for being up-potted. I've had much better success with this.
Just wanted to say thankyou for all you do for the fig community!!!!
Thanks Sir, not many people will dig out a cutting and show the results that's awesome, plus I'm a root addict, got to have strong roots.
You're the man, Harvey. I've read so much from you on the forums; great to see you demonstrate it on screen.
Wow, I’m impressed at how much the roots developed in such a short period of time! Thank you, Harvey!
Thank you so much! This is the best video on fig cuttings I've found on UA-cam.
I agreed with you, using deep pot and water tray at the bottom of the pot help the plant get water and moisture but prevent root rot
Thanks so much Harvey, very nice of you to share your knowledge of this wonderful Fruit Tree! .....I am Frankallen on F4F
hi harvey my name is miguel you are like so informed i have less in my collection than you but i have been into plants for about 60 years or so for the last 5 or so years into fruit trees figs are my go to thanks for all the info
Wow! Much better results than I've been seeing here on UA-cam. Now that I've seen your method, I'm better remembering my Daddys rooting method. Thanks ans I've subbed to your channel. Hoping you do more videos. Maybe follow-ups to how they're doing out in the yard. God bless you and yours!
Hello Harvey, I checked my cuttings again tonight and found I have 3 to 4 very small leaves growing on my cuttings Yayyyyy. If I figure out how to post I pick I will !!! Thanks!!!
I've struck out on all the cuttings that I've tried to propagate in the last year. This method looks hopeful. Thanks for sharing
Nice.....informative & short.....Thanks!
Thanks for taking the time to share. I've watched, learned, and enjoyed many of your videos. Blessings.
Thank you Harvey.
If a source such as yourself tells me I should do this or that with my cuttings. You bet your bottom dollar I’m for sure doing this or that!
Thank you so much for your explanation
Nice video. Thank you. This should help me return to the fig hobby.
Muchas gracias por el video lo puse en práctica y me fue muy bien. Éxito en sus futuros proyectos. Puerto Rico.
Thanks Harvey!
I'm going to try your method. Thanks!
Great 👍 video Harvey thank you 🙏
Very clear and convincing! Thanks!
Thanks
Awesome 👏 Great video! Thanks for sharing 😀
beautiful thanks so much for sharing your expertise
a good informative video
Are you planning to make more videos? I can't wait :-)
Yes, when time allows and I can think of what topics still need to be addressed. I have other farm chores that constantly get in the way of my stardom, LOL.
Lol
thanks for the video! do you find that cuttings with an apical bud intact continue to grow from the apical bud straight up or do the stop and a new apical bud forms and takes over?
Good techinique, Thanks !
Harvey, awesome!
Wow great information, thank you.
New subscriber. Millenial Gardener recommended you.
Thanks you from Indonesia
Thanks I’m going to do my first fig rooting
thanks a lots
Thank you for the great information.
Wow 😲 thanks for sharing this beautiful video I put plastic bag in top of my cutting is that okay I been doing for a long time end it works for me I learned on other way thanks
With such high humidity, risk of mold is increased. The benefit of using parafilm is that it prevents moisture escape but still allows for some air exchange. Would you put a plastic bag over your own head? ;)
Hello Harvey. Glad I found this excellent video. Can you address planting depth? At about 4:20 your cutting has a well developed root ball which is a couple of inches below the original soil level. I have found that if I transplant with the root ball right on top of the soil the little tree will grow rapidly, but if I plant at the depth at which it was rooted, growth will be delayed. I have noticed the same thing with cuttings of quite a few ornamentals.
I usually plant at the same depth it was growing originally when rooted. Some will have roots form all the way to the top, some not. I get pretty good growth almost always.
Great information ... thanks!
Thank you for an excellent tutorial. I've been looking for the tall planting vessels with no success, could you give me a hint on where I might find them. Thanks
I order from this company www.stuewe.com/products/minitreepots.php
Great video
Cảm ơn bạn. tôi rất thích cây sung nhưng ở việt nam rất hiếm loại sung này!
Hi Harvey,
You had mentioned in the comments that you put your pots under plant lights, I was curious about the model and Ks you use.
Thanks!
Dom, sorry I missed your question. I'm using T5 fixtures with 6500k bulbs. I have purchased a couple of fixtures on Amazon but had problems with poor packaging and broken bulbs but had great luck with these: www.1000bulbs.com/product/88884/SUN-960305.html
Thanks, this was useful and appreciated.
Thanks for sharing!
Interesting video. Thanks 👍
Hey Harvey! I've tried a few other ways of rooting fig cuttings and this is the only way that has produced significant roots so far, so thanks! It's been about 2 months, and I can see through the container that there is significant root growth. Should I repot, and if so, into what type of container? It's currently in a deep water bottle that has a shape similar to the container in your video.
Sorry for the slow reply, I just saw your question. I usually move from these pots into a 5 gallon pot as soon as I see significant amount of roots.
Thank you. This is so helpful!
Those are some incredible roots for 5 weeks!! I've been using 40/60 coir/perlite, and I happened to just get a bag of mycorrhizal innoculant for my tomaotes, so I'll have to try adding some to my next round of cuttings and see if I can sort of duplicate that soil you're using. Do you use rooting hormone as well? I've never tried without.
Nice video. Factual, no hype. Just a couple more close ups and it would be perfect.
What time of the year is this cutting? Was this cutting dormant or can it be taken any time, was the cutting kept inside or outside was any light or heat applied to this cutting?
Thank you.
Good video
Thanks and thanks for watching!
Good info thanks
Thank you sir
OMG, I must be getting old. Just noticed I commented last time I watched this. Lol
Sometimes going back to school is necessary for all of us! :) Happy Thanksgiving and thanks for watching again!
Thanks! Any particular time of year?
I prefer working with dormant cuttings from December through summer but have taken cuttings any time of year and root okay.
Dear Figaholics, Sir,
Nice video, thank you. 😊
I have few questions:
-What is the soil PH?
-Because I'm from Hungary (Europe), here we dont't have that Potting mix what you used. Can you tell me something about the soil? That was perlite?
-I got some cuttings, but they already have some buds, tiny leaves. There are any chances to rooting them?
-Sir, if I do everything as you did, where I have to leave them: in the light or in the dark to root them?
Please, answer me! 😊🙏
Thank you in advance! 😊
Greetings from Hungary! 😊
The potting soil I use is fairly neutral is is a blend of sphagnum moss and perlite (35%). For longer term growing, less perlite is suggested but for rooting I like this level.
thanks!
harvey, regarding the trick you learned from the long time propagator, you cutting along lower side of the cutting to expose and promote root growth. whys didn't you cut around the entire side of the circumference to expose as much as possible? what is the danger in exposing too much?
+nickka2009 The purpose of making the side cut is to expose more of the cells where root initials form. This is just outside the cambium layer so cutting around the entire circumference would remove those cells. I suppose you could cut on two or three sides but the method I used is how I was taught and appears to work well and I don't know if there would be disadvantages of doing more.
You may want to try to downloand the PowerPoint presentation at app.box.com/s/qgc4vbmxkq3j09hv52r1hhmweqfycdd9/1/3217348823/61525280541/1 and view slide 17 (right side for woody plants) that includes a diagram of the location of the cambium layer, root initials, phloem, etc. This presentation was put together by Ernesto Sandoval of the UC Davis Botanical Conservatory.
that's so funny, I've wondered these same thing and it seems totally logical. I use the side cut method because it was taught to me also. I do it when I propagate cuttings in the ground. I'm going to go for two sides and shake up the dogma! thanks for saying this...2 years ago. I wonder if you tried it?
That was a very good video, thank you very much, figs are my favorite fruits, but unfortunately every time i try to grow them i get the fig mosaic virus, 😔, any tips ?
With good plant nutrition, FMV is not a significant problem. As my trees get older, I don't see symptoms very often. Don't worry about it.
Harvey, I hope that I am not repeating a question from below. I saw where you put you cuttings under lights. I live in Louisiana. If I do not have lights. Where should I locate my cuttings in soil? Inside in a window? Can I put them outside maybe under another tree so that they do not get too hot. It gets up to about 85 degrees right now. Thank you
The cuttings don't need light at all until there are leaves and filtered light outside would be fine if temperatures are okay. Ideally, the soil would be warmer than air temperature up to 85F and that's hard to manage in outdoor conditions but you can still get good results most of the time. Good luck.
Hi , did you wrapp this container in plastic to retain moist , did you leave it only indoors or out ?
No, the container is not wrapped. Please see video description, I have usually rooted indoors.
Do you know what causes a fig tree to drop 50% of their leaves in July. Mine starting to turn yellow and now more then 1/2 of them have fallen off. Still have figs on the tree but not sure how this is going to affect the figs.
Without knowing more, I can only guess as to a couple of possible causes: 1. inadequate soil moisture during hot temperatures, 2. fungal diseases of leaves due to growing in humid conditions. I suggest you post photos and describe the situation further in a forum or Facebook group.
I have heard from a unconfirmed source that figs like their root ball to be a little on the dry side so I only water them one time a week. They are in 12-15 gallon pots. So how often do you water your potted figs. They did go thru a few weeks of mid 90's heat.
Established trees can take drier conditions but I don't think that is a good idea for potted figs at all. My trees usually go into the ground after they have filled up a 5 gallon pot. My 5 gallon potted figs get watered every 2 days. I suggest you try soaking from the bottom for at least a half hour to make sure the bottom of the pot is getting watered well.
Hi, I should have listened to you carefully before I made a cut, which is where the root supposed to come out. What I did was I cut around it instead of giving it a one cut like you did. Do you think it will still give roots? And How often do you water it? Thanks!
Most varieties of figs are amazingly forgiving and yours will probably still root okay. I prefer trying to water based on weight of pot, picking it up to get a sense of how much the soil has dried out. It's a very subjective thing but I like the soil to be moist but not wet.
Thanks I really appreciate that! I'm a work in progress, learning how to cook, gardening now, lol! We live in Washington state by the ocean and it doesn't get a lot of sun but will see. The cutting I got is a variety of green on the outside and pink on the inside when it's ripe.
Thanks for the great info Harvey! Cant wait tk try it in my HC cuttings! Btw can you share where to find that kind of pots and what type are they?
See the comments with link below the video
It was just right there! Thanks!
Would you go from a 20 oz cup to this small tree pot or direct to a gallon container?
@@roprezm probably a 1 or 2 gallon pot. I typically go from these treepots to 5 gallon pots
Figaholics Thanks a lot Harvey! I get the idea now! Makes perfect sense!
Thanks for this information! The cuttings I received from you are now at about this stage but slowing growth and I am reading what seems to be conflicting information. Should I be watering more now? Should I fertilize or repot soon, or move to my greenhouse, which is heated to 55 at night but 80-90 during the day? Anyway, thanks for the great cuttings and adding to my collection of fruit trees!
I suggest getting a sense of weight of the pots when soil is moist but not saturated and water them when they feel light. I try to do most of my watering by placing a tray of pots into a tub of water about four inches deep and waiting 15-30 seconds. I will occasionally water a bit from the top. Once they are growing well I then begin fertilizing. Good luck!
@@Figaholics thank you for the suggestions!
Hi Sir, thanks for the great information. I will sure be using this method soon. I had a question, do you know what type of fig is the one you have at the end of the video?
Thanks. the fig fruit shown at the end of all of my videos posted to date is Panache.
+Figaholics Thanks!
No rooting hormone?
Hello Harvey,Great videos you have here. Just wondering do you use lighting when you are rooting them like this ? and when the soil dries out a bit are you watering from the top or wicking from the bottom.Thanks
Thanks, Dave. I don't believe lighting is necessary until leaves form but I usually have half the lights on from the beginning and then turn on all of them when there are a lot of leaves (my light fixtures have 8 bulbs, 4' long each). In the early stages I will water lightly from the top to keep mix moist. as cuttings are growing, I check pots and guess moisture by a rough feel of weight and also looking at bottom of pot and will soak in a tub of water about 4-5" deep and then still water a little from the top.
Figaholics
Thank you for your reply.
I like the wax film use this method now
hi there I've watched some videos of fig grafts love what you do fan i grafted fig tree on skin and worked but c grafted i tried but didn't work wondering if you can give me some tips on when best time to do
It can be done anytime of year though, if you're in a non-tropical climate, it's best to graft a couple of months before the end of the growing season. Also, it's easiest to use dormant scions for grafting, though that's not necessary. Ideal grafting temperatures are 70-85F.
Hi there should i graft when the tree is starting to shoot up from dormant i have cuts in fridge so they stay asleep when i graft it and i saw you cut the the branch with a nife before you graft so to not allow scion to be pushing while graft gets done please let me know thanks we are in july month spring is around corner trees will start to awaken soon
Sorry, just saw your question. I have grafted in spring, early summer, and mid-summer with good success. The best time to graft is today! :)
Hi, I ordered some cuttings from you and am waiting for them. I've never rooted anything and I'm a little nervous! I work for a garden center and landscaping business and have transplanted things, grown from seed, etc. with no problem, but have never rooted anything. Do you find that there is no need for rooting hormone?
Rooting hormone (IBA) can inhibit bud break. Since figs usually root easily without, I rarely use it. If used, just a weak concentration.
Hi Figaholics
just wondering whats the largest cutting i can use? neighbors cutting down his tree! so was wondering if i could get a large branch and propagate that so i could get a large mature plant quicker?
thanks!
I would suggest using a smaller branch as there are usually more buds that will sprout quickly. When grafting a large branch your small graft union will struggle trying to supply the resources to a large branch. I've had small scions grow 5' or more in 4 months after grafting.
Do you put them outdoors in the sun? Indoors? In a green house? Do you use a heat mat? and do you keep it in a bucket of water always or is that just in the beginning to get the soil wet and then you remove? Thanks!
Hi there, please check out the video description for answers to most of your questions.
I never keep the pots in a bucket of water, only dip them in a tub of water for 15-60 seconds once plants are actively growing to water them. Length of time depends on how dry the soil is which one can gauge after some experience based on the weight of the pot or tray of pots.
Some daily belly dancing may also encourage faster growth, but this is not yet documented. :)
Thanks for watching.
@@Figaholics haha well if bellydancing might help ill have a magnificent orchard some day ;) thanks for your response!
After, what do you recommend for transplanting outdoors? Wait until frosts are over? Or does it not matter? How do you avoid sunburn on leaves when moving from indoors out? Do you recommend putting in larger containers to grow outside or to put directly in ground? Any help appreciated 🙏
I suggest waiting until soil is warm, I usually don't plant in the ground here in zone 9b until May. I will usually move from one of these small pots and put into a 5 gallon pot and might not plant in the ground for another 3-5 months. I will grow them outside in a shadehouse while they are in 5 gallon pots.
@@Figaholics thank you so very much for the response 🙏
Hello. You do not cover your fig cuttings for more humidity is that correct? You just leave them in the container uncovered but the soil kept moist in warm temps right?
Sorry, just saw your message. That is correct, the Parafilm prevents cuttings from drying out until they start growing.
Harvey, was the initial promix in the pot pre-moistened, or did you let it wick water up to dry promix? I am talking about the "first" watering
I moisten the ProMix before putting into the pot. I do water from the top some after placing in the cutting to help pack the soil around the cutting or I may just push the soil down by hand (depending on how many I have to take care of; watering is faster).
Hi Harvey, I’m using the HP Pro mix potting soil like you suggested in the same tall pots. Once they are rooted in those I see that you say to move them into 5 gallon containers, would you still use the same soil or would you recommend a different type after the initial rooting stage? Thanks!
I usually use ProMix in the 5 gallon pots also as they seem to let the roots fill up the pots pretty quickly and the soil is light enough that not much of it falls off when I remove plants from the pots.
Great video I have been trying to root cuttings but failed after spending hundreds of $
Sorry to hear you've had troubles. I've had failures with all methods but this works best for me. Hope it help.
Figaholics
Thank you I think this method will work.
Can you propagate fig suckers? And will they bring fruit? I have an old fig tree that was cut down to the stump and shoots are coming out. It needs a new sunnier location so was wondering if I can propagate those shoots/suckers?
Yes and yes, they will bear fruit
Hello Harvey, Newbie here. After you set your cuttings are you using a humidity bin or heat pad to warm the roots? Are you exposing the cuttings to standard room temp? Thanks for sharing. Tony
My cuttings are mostly grown in a propagation room heated to 70F or higher and I do usually use heat mats so the roots are warmer. I mention in the video I don't use humidity bins, there is no need for that with cuttings wrapped in Parafilm.
@@Figaholics thank you
since the weather is warming up can I just start the cuttings this way and leave them outside in a covered area
Sorry for the late reply, just saw this message. Yes, that would work although it would be best if temps didn't drop below 70F, I think.
What would be the minimum length of a cutting (with plenty of nodes above and below soil)? And how long can cuttings be refrigerated and still be viable for rooting?
I prefer cuttings of about 8 inches (20cm) long but they can be rooted much shorter and some people have had success experimenting with cuttings with only one node. I've had cuttings of up to 1.5 years old root fine and a friend previously reported he had some that had been in his refrigerator for 3 years and still root for him.
How often do you water? And do you let the water wick from the bottom? Thanks Harvey!! Hope to hear from you!
Depends on what stage of growth the plants are, I judge mostly by weight. I will dunk them in a tray of water for about 30 seconds and will occasionally give a little bit of water from the top if it looks dry.
I live in the NW - what is the best time of the year to start a cutting? Are your cuttings under lights after the green growth starts?
Rooting at any time of year is possible but working with dormant cuttings is a bit easier as they are less perishable and offer a greater chance of roots forming before leaves. Once leaves emerge I have my cuttings under grow lights if being rooted indoors. Sometimes I root cuttings in my greenhouse in spring.
Hello Harvey, My name is Debbie I'd like to ask a question if I may, I've roots some fig cuttings and just placed them in the Pro Mix HP, I see you wrapped plastic around the top of the cutting, when do you remove this from the cutting and do you place your cuttings a sunny window etc. Thanks so much for your information!!!
Hi Debbie, this is Parafilm that is wrapped around the cuttings which is mostly wax and I do not remove it, the buds push through the film and it breaks down over time. The benefits of this film is that it prevents moisture loss but allows some air exchange and is flexible enough to allow shoots to push through.
Thanks for your response, I don't have any parafilm on hand at the moment could I use clear plastic wrap instead until I get some? Also I have my cuttings in a dark container like you have so should I put them by a window? Thanks again so much for such a quick response!!!
does this work on moreton figs, i have 0 experience with this stuff but I'm trying to learn so I can take a cutting from my late grandmother's tree before they sell her property.
I have no experience with Morton Bay figs so do not know.
How long will a fig cutting last in a refridgerator before planting? I am in NE us. I plan to plant begining of Feb for spring in my region 6.
It really depends on the quality of the cutting to begin with and if it was properly refrigerated. We've kept some cuttings in the refrigerator for over eight months (we actually just rooted some on August 30th that were pruned in early January or late December). We have a friend who reported that he rooted cuttings that had been in the refrigerator for two or three years, but I would not count on having similar results.
What is the best way to store cuttings long term?
It is best to only use very well lignified (mature) cuttings for long term storage. Sanitize them with a something such as a 10% bleach colution by soaking for a minute or so and then allow to air dry completely before refrigeration. When first placed in the refrigerator in a Ziploc bag, leave the bag open for a day or two until condensation evaporates. If condensation reappears later, open the bag for a day or so again. I refrigerate cuttings at 35-38F.
Can you please describe how you applied rooting hormone, what kind do you recommend liquid rooting hormone or in powdered form? Thanks!
I do not use rooting hormone on fig cuttings.
Fig from cuttings
So how do you know when it is time to water the cutting? Many people report disaster after watering their cuttings. Is bottom watering in a deep-pot truly safe?
As I fill pots with damp (not wet) potting soil dozens or hundreds of times I become very accustomed to what the pot weighs and checking the weight of pots in the weeks ahead is a great way to tell if the soil is becoming too dry. Since I don't insert the cutting all the way to the bottom of my pots, bottom watering works out very well, I usually dip it into a tray of water about 3" deep (more like 6" when plants are growing vigorously) for 15-30 seconds. This has worked very well for me. I will occasionally water a very small amount from the top so it does not become too dry but it is usually a couple of months before any roots would be near the surface of the pot so heavy watering from the top just increases the risk of rot near the top during the early stages.
Thanks! So you go by weight and not by the stage of growth? I went ahead and bottom-watered mine in an inch of Gnatrol water. Fingers crossed.
Hello Harvey, What size tree pots do you use? I want to try pots of this size to see if my rooting success will increase.
Please check the link in the video description which includes my source for pots where the specific pot details are shown. Thanks for watching!
Nice..
Great video Harvey. When you move to the 5G pot do you remove the parafilm? Is there a specific potting mix you like to use for your figs when they go to 5G pots?
Thank you.
I do not remove the Parafilm, it breaks apart over time and doesn't need maintenance. I usually use ProMix HP also in a 5 gal pot size since I have a good supply on hand already, though for long term pot growth I'd probably pick something like ProMix BX or another good mix with a lower amount of perlite.
Thank you. Looking forward to placing my cuttings order in the next few days.
Even with the cuttings being dormant, do you still find the parafilm necessary? Seems that you try to maintain humidity when you have green shoots in order to stop transpiration.
Yes. I root indoors in my shop at temperatures of 75-85 and it can take several weeks at least for roots to form and this has been what has worked out well for me to prevent cuttings from drying out.
also, regarding timing, do you do all of you cuttings as hardwoods? or do you do some with leaves as well?
I only use hardwood or semi-hardwood cuttings without leaves. softwood cuttings should be possible but requires more maintenance. Typically, the softer cuttings rot more easily.
So buds need to be in dirt, it wont root when a blind stick is in the soil?
Roots form best from node areas but can also form in between. A manager at USDA told me this was because more hormones were located in the areas around nodes/buds.
Isn't promix a lot of $? I've only seen it in big bales ? Unless you know where I can buy a smaller amount of promix?
About $30 for a bale that should be enough for rooting at least 100 cuttings. It is compressed so it's equivalent to about 7 cubic feet of loose filled bags. I believe it is very well worth the cost.
Will I find ProMix HP in home improvement stores such as Lowes or Home Depot? Or more likely at nurseries ?
Perhaps in your area but not in California at the present time. I purchased a large quantity from Home Depot last year when they were eliminating it from inventory (I believe they had a hard time selling it since customers unfairly compared the 2.8CF compressed bales to 2CF loose fill bags of competing products). The easiest place to find it is in hydroponic shops.
Where I live I find it Vert expensive !!! I wish they sold smaller bags.I don't have the $ to put out nor the space to store a lg. Bag of pro mix.Dont have anyone to split it with.Wish they sold a smaller bag,I may find a few ppl to split it with but not the size they sell but would love to try it?
I find it in my area for more close to $70. A bale .NOT CHEAP OR THE SIZE I CAN USE!!!
Do I need to cover with parafilm all the top? Or I need to leave just the tip uncover to grow I’m just confuse with that
And when I remove the parafilm when I notice the roots?
Cover the entire cutting above the soil, including the top. Stretch it as you apply and emerging buds easily push through. You do not need to remove the Parafilm at all as it breaks down on its own.
Awesome thanks a lot for your answer. Great day.😍
When you wrap the cutting with parafilm do you leave a little bit exposed at top.
I wrap the entire cutting. Buds push through the Parafilm
If you bottom water the cutting when do you start watering the cuttings
I moisten the soil just moderately prior to filling the pots and find the easiest way to tell when the pot needs more water is by getting a sense of the weight. Before cuttings start growing, it should usually be about two weeks before more water is needed.
to speed up the rooting, what concentration of hormones should I use for figs? Thanks
I usually do not use any rooting hormone. If you use any IBA, I suggest a relatively weak concentration. I used hormone about five years ago on fig cuttings and got roots quickly but bud break was inhibited and most died. I have good success with out any added hormones.