"Then we'll get started on our boring operation, but It'll be exciting it won't be boring." Cracked me up Tom. Great video as always thanks for sharing.
Hello again Tom. I took a break from watching your videos but now I feel like I missed a lot. I guess that's the beauty of UA-cam, I can always go back and watch past videos. I'm always amazed at how many tools you introduce that I have never seen before. Not that it should be a surprise, I'm not a machinist, but it's still fun to see you work.
This is the Tom Lipton that does what's written in "Sink or Swim" about passing on the knowledge to future generations, and don't laugh if I'm older than you are.... ;-) This is REALLY appreciated... Thanks, Pierre
Shifting spanner! Everybody looks at me like I'm crazy when I call them that, can't even remember now when or where I learned it either... Nice to see the progress on the etching press, thanks Tom.
Hey Tom, I enjoyed the machine shop lessons on layout, toolmakers buttons, and planer gage uses. It's always great to see those tools used in ways we never had to before. Too bad you don't have a 2" boring bar holder. I would have let you borrow he cnmg bar off the Pacemaker. A few passes and finished. The parts are looking great! Nice job. Thanks for bringing us the videos. Adam
+oxtoolco Thanks for showing us all! One of the Right ways to Set up Center had me guessing for a While when you pulled out the tool Makers buttons. End Result Perfect as usual and Simple Really, when you Know How lol Cheers from Australia.
A meaty series and thoroughly enjoyable. It was very kind of you to machine those bearing blocks for Adam's 0-8' DTI. The use of an added reference (button) to an awkward piece is useful knowledge. Thanks :)
Very nice Tom! These old school techniques you show us are always very ingenious and fun to use. Thank you for sharing all your skill and knowledge with such a good humor and zest!
Hi Tom ! Wav, back to where it all started ... some real machining videos - I like that ! And what a project I loved that balancing exercise ! Very nice - thx for sharing !
Great Video... I love the lessons on layout and measuring setup, etc ... You have so many cool little old school items for us home shop enthusiasts to learn about! Well Done!!
This was a very interesting series chock full of information. I just turned a calibration bar on my Harrison using a lathe dog and sure could have used the counterbalance pieces you had made up. I got noticeable vibration despite the size of my lathe. The tool-makers buttons demonstration gave me new knowledge. Appreciated. Great video. Thanks for sharing. Ps. The bearing housings are beautiful as well as functional. That is a lot of hand grinding! but the end result was art.
Jim Milne Hi Jim, Always nice to see a comment from the big island. I have seen some lathes walking around the shop from that kind of vibration. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Idomake Hey Make, We this is one possible use of them. I sometimes use them to tie parts back toward the chuck with them as well. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Really neat to see how those buttons were used. Don't think I would ever do this method as it seems extremely time consuming I could see that on a much more complicated feature it could have a use though. Always good to know other ways to do something.
Thanks for the lesson on the toolmakers buttons and on the balancing act. You did miss your chance to pull out your 6 inch dial indicator to indicate it, but doing it on the angle did its job, too.
Great stuff again Tom, I have acquired a really nice "Starrett" master planer gauge after seeing a video you did on them some time back. I had never heard of them, nor taken any interest in them until I watched that video. I have used mine several times in the short time I've owned it, for marking out. What you showed on this video is another way to use this amazing tool. I'm happy I have one now in my toolbox !! Pedro...
oxtoolco Tom, Yeah the "Starrett" I bought has the fine adjustment feature, I remember your commenting about that & wanted it when searching for one on eBay. I am very happy with the one I bought, it is pretty well like new with all the parts & I paid $100 US for it which I think was a good buy. Cheers - Pedro...
I never seen them buttons used . It was nice to learn about them even though I’ll never get to use them because I’m retired now . But still nice to learn something new .
Tom: Even though you tightened the snot out of the chuck, its good practice to stand behind the lathe headstock when starting the lathe. If that workpiece was coming at you rotating anywhere near 200 rpm it would be a bad day. Seeing the button setup was nice. Thanks for the videos.
Old School .love it, those old techniques reminds Me of My Dads machining, and the " Dead Nuts on" terminology. Lol Was one of his favor sayings Enjoyed Tom
I was holding my breath as you slide in the bearings to check the fit. I was waiting for a hot side plate to cool just enough to grab them! I realize for final use you will slit them to clamp the bearing, but it the fixed side to be bolted or welded in place? I guess I'll have to tune in next week to see how that goes.
Well that was boring.... lol ;) I really appreciate seeing how you located the center with the button. I learn a lot watching these, because I'm not a machinist. Making and repairing thing is fun, even if it has fallen so far out of favour in the automotive world. Automotive Service technicians have to sell new parts in order to stay in business, but when you work on your own projects there is so much that can be repaired. This may sound strange but it's not getting old watching you drill holes either. Your bits always seem to cut so well. It's not like that when I'm doing it. :D
outsidescrewball Hey Chuck, I meant to change the insert on the finish passes. The roughing insert had a large corner radius that is prone to chatter if the depth of cut is less than the nose radius. Mr Bozo distracted me with bright lights and cameras so I totally forgot to change it. All the best, Tom
Nice job Tom..Never seen the buttons before, great idea to have the counter weights, i have to think how i can attach some to my 4 jaw as it does not have T slots like yours, Cheers
Got it all buttoned up.? Cool big blocks of iron. The balance plates are a great setup for that chuck. Us little chuck guys would be resorting to some faceplate work. Style points awarded... the curves are a nice touch over square. Colin ;-)
In one of the Dan Gelbart prototype design videos, he shows to prevent insertion binding on something like this you can cut a small groove near the tip of the male cylinder that is being inserted. The grove makes it so the you can get the male part started in the hole a little crooked without binding, but the pin won't slide in past the groove unless it is perfectly aligned. I wonder if you can do the same to the female part that the bearing is being inserted into while it was in the lathe to prevent bind on assembly. Chris
shadowdog500 Hi Chris, I have used that trick for close fitting pins and other components. In this case the housing will be split which will create a large clearance. Once the bearing is positioned it will then be clamped in position. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Hi Tom, I don´t know if somebody had mentioned it, to be sure, that those balancing weights are not gonna fly out, you can easily tie them together (on excesing bolts) with some wire.. btw, this series is great.. thx..
Hi Peter, That is probably a good safety precaution. In this example I wasn't spinning very fast so I wasn't too worried. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Is it possible to drill and tap hole on the perimeter of the chuck by each of the slots? Then you could use a washer and bolt to guarantee your nuts don't escape.
***** Hey Justin, At low speeds the forces are pretty low. The stud has a pretty impressive clamping force. If I needed to spin at 2K rpm it would be a different story. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Hey Tom, And here, all this time, I thought tool-makers buttons held their aprons together! (It's too bad we don't have audio with the comments. I could add my own rim shots!) Nice work there, Thomas! Your boring wasn't! I noticed at the first part of your video that you are very organized. You have your own Calibration Lab. :-) Pretty tasty stuff there! Thanks for sharing your "boring" work and video! Have a good one! Oxen Dave
Hey Tom, What ever happened to the etching press project? I for one would love to see more of it, even see it finished and tested! All the best, Matthew
Wow, some crazy new stuff for me to absorb on this video...the things a lathe can do will never cease to amaze me. I guess I'll give the operator a little credit too, LOL!!! Nice work Tom, and I have to apologize for busting up laughing when that little 20 thou finish pass chattered on you...hard to believe after all of that you found the "chatter zone" on the last pass. I don't know why it made me laugh either, I must love irony? At least you chuckled too so I didn't feel like a monster :D Thanks for sharing all of that great info with us, Aloha...Chuck
Knolltop Farms Hey Chuck, Always nice to see a comment from out in the valley. I had planned to change the insert for a finishing geometry but plumb forgot. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Hello Tom, Great video. Question please, why is it that you Yanks never seem to use a carriage stop when boring or turning towards the chuck. Good safety feature to ensure your tool misses the chuck jaws. Other contributors such as Tom's Techniques use a Plunger type Dial Gauge to come to a set length / depth, not reliable as you can easily go past your intended setting. Here in the UK we use carriage stops, either solid or with an adjustable screw.
Dave Ticehurst Hi Dave, Well if you have done a lot of machining carriage stops are actually a pain in the neck. They always seem to be in the way and you have to use a wrench to unclamp the things and move them. With the DRO or an indicator its easy enough to stop where you want to. I don't think anybody in their right mind comes up hard against a carriage stop so functionally what is the difference. If you need the safety net of a hard stop for some special thing then fine. The other problem I have seen is when they move. You can't actually tell if they scoot along the ways by bumping them. With the DRO or indicator method you can easily see when you have moved past your set point. Hope that helps. Thanks for the comment. Good observation. Cheers, Tom
How did you go about setting and controlling the depth of travel in detail, since you were (or seemed) flush tight against the jaws on the back of the bore. I know you have a DRO, but do you set it til you start hearing the cutter rattle against the jaws? it did seem to cut the bore flush all the way without leaving the smallest lip. thanks for great show again. Cheers.
Flip de boer Hey Flip, There was a small space behind the part. It was about a millimeter beyond the back of the part. I just wanted to be sure I didn't over penetrate and bump the chuck jaw. I used the DRO to determine where I was in relation to the chuck jaw. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Nik C. Colyer Hi Nik, I switched to Power Director 12 a while back. After a little learning curve I like it. I got it on sale for $70. Its much faster than Windows live movie maker which is what I used before. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Nice job Tom, always interesting to see different work holding techniques, Would water jetting have given you the option for a larger bore cut-out without distortion? or would it have been to cost prohibitive.
rchopp Hi Randy, Waterjet on steel this thick is pretty slow. My steel supplier offers oxy fuel burning as well as material sales. Not that many WJ cutting outfits stock much material. You are correct that I could have gotten closer to final size that way. It only took a half hour or so to remove the extra material in the bores. Thanks for the comment and good question. Cheers, Tom
***** John... my son lost the bottom alternator bolt on his '93 Nissan 240SX. It showed up on my door step, 2000 miles later.... with some heavy duty zip ties hold it in place. Just amazing! He also discovered RED locktite doesn't work on exhaust flange bolts.
I am watching this one for the third time and those tool makers buttons are great. Just thinking: In case it has to be precise you have to take care that that tackwelded flatbar remains flat on the workpiece, otherwise the toolmakers button will be at an angle with the centerline of the bores you want to machine. It may even be necessary to clean machine that flatbar I suppose?
Hi Jan, You are quite right. If the button is at an angle it might give a false reading. In this case it didn't matter but if you were doing something really fussy it would affect the end result. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Hi Tom, inspite of surface plate and gauge blocks, if the surface of that little bar in center is not perp. to the rest, where is the precision then. All the best.
Your a master, and I'm certain I either saw it in one of your video's or Kieth Fenner's, maybe in your book. But I was wondering if there was a reason you didn't put a sacrificial plate behind the part to make it so you didn't need to be so accurate on boring depth and not hit your jaws? Not enough part engagement for the size remaining? Regardless, thanks for another great video.
David Finch Hi David, It was really a trivial thing to stop without hitting the jaws. I only mentioned it because I needed to pay attention to not going way past the thickness of the plate. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Tom, noob question. If it's important to have the two bored be coaxial, should you face the two plates ahead of time so the bores are perpendicular to the plate faces?
Thomas Utley Hey Tom, The outer plate was faced perp to the bore. I flipped it around and faced the opposite side parallel and then separated the two plates. Those surfaces are not a functional surface anyway. I wanted to face them so they looked better. The bearings are self aligning spherical roller bearings. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
At what point do you decided to counter-balance? And what are the negative affects of NOT running them? I'm sure the bearings in the headstock won't be too happy. Could you just run it slow enough that the off center weight wouldn't have an affect?
SuperSecretSquirell Hi Squirrel, There would be massive vibration which would make it hard to get a good finish and round bore. Running cutting tools too slowly is a problem for finishes and holding size as well. Its not difficult. It actually doesn't take long to set up unless your filming and yapping about it. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Hi Tom, your comments on the flame cutting make a lot of sense. what are your thoughts on having a piece that thick cut using a water jet? i'm tinkering with the thought of investing in one in the future, at the moment the cost is a little scary. cheers mike
HolzMichel Hi Mike, Waterjets are not that efficient on steel this thick. My supplier offers turn key material and cutting. Most WJ vendors do not stock huge amounts of material. The waterjet shines in its ability to cut nearly anything. Typically the service is sold as cutting only but some vendors offer materials as well. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
No idea how this etching press is going to look like and I'm way behind you on experience (on a different planet), but I'm curious where the load is located on the bearing? I'm asking as I assumed it's on the inner ring, which normally means press fitting the inner part (shaft) and leaving the outer race as a loose fit (or transitional). Unless I got something mixed up, which is of course possible. Also am I correct to think the housing split + bolt will have to be done with some sort of spacer so not to crush the outer race and will require a positive locking mechanism to stay put without undoing itself during work? Cheers, T.
Tom Jagiello Hey Tom, You can swap sides that are constrained. The loads are fairly light in relation to the bearing size. I think these are rated at 42,000 lbs per bearing. They will see a fraction of that load in use on the press. The main reason for the type (spherical roller) is the roll deflection and the bearings maintaining alignment with the axis of rotation. The clamping load on the bearing od in pretty minimal as well and only there to keep the bearing in position. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
MrShobar Hi Tom, It took a little over a half hour to bore the ID. I would say 10 passes plus a couple finish passes. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
It was the start of press that got me to your channel. Glad you are back on it. But could you not do those curved edges in the Autometric. Please forgive me, don't know what is is not possible with all the machines. Just thought so after seeing the teaser where you made the ball.
Andre van Wyk Hi Andre, Yes I probably could do those curves in the Autometric. They are purely decorative and the part will be powder coated to finish it. I was not too worried about having a machined surface there. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Hi Tom things are going great with my indexer a couple this slowed me down but now its on track. Can you suggest a incert for qreat surface finish as i am at a loss, and a cheap indicator that is still acurate as funds are a little low as i had to buy more materials. She came up nice are you going to paint the bearing hubs.
Hey Tom Great video, really interesting seeing how the buttons are used, Can you tell us why you used no cutting oil on this job. P.S I've no experience in machining I just find the video's fascinating.
Deepwinter Hi Winter, With many grades of carbide you don't need flood coolant. When cutting at high speeds coolant can actually damage the hot tip of the insert. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Oh! That’s “UA-cam surface finish”! Adams channel is ripe with it. The camera makes everything look perfect. Those surface finishes look so shiny and colourful, when in reality I know there are ridges from the feed rate, scratches develop quite quickly with handling, there NEVER seems to be finger prints - on anything! Oil never seems to discolour or stain! Lol. We don’t get finishes like that at home. The freshly carbide cut surfaces disappear right before your eyes! Haha.
Tom - did you account for the 0.200" CL offset when you centered the button, or am I missing something? Great upload, I've always been curious about those buttons too.
DSCKy I was wondering that too... I was hoping that Tom would say why he didn't use the mill. Could the hole be too big for the boring head(s) he has for the mill?
DSCKy Hi Dscky, The lathe has 7.5 hp and is much more rigid. The mill has 3hp and a skinny little quill. The lathe can take three to five times the depth of cut per pass over the mill. Hope this helps. Good question. Cheers, Tom
Tom, thanks for another great video! Lots to learn there. Was that chatter on the last pass from a worn tool, too light a cut for the geometry, or just Finagle's First Principle at work ("The perversity of the universe tends towards a maximum.")? If you ever run short of subject matter for a future video, "Designing with bearings" would be interesting. What types exist, what each is best used for, and how you go about using them in projects...including milling or turning where they live. The general ideas for common types are fairly obvious, but the details, like how bearings are rated, how you find the one that fits a given need, and tolerances for fit are less obvious. You, Adam, and others just seem to know what's appropriate, but it hasn't been discussed that I've seen. Thanks! -- Mike
BigMjolnir Hi Mike, The chatter on the last cut was Mr Bozo distracting me. I had intended to change the large radius insert I was roughing with to a smaller radius and finishing geometry. All the bright lights and cameras blinded me and I plumb forgot. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Hi Tom. Great pair of videos. I especially enjoy your episodes when you are utilizing your mill and lathe. These might be the best segments yet. One question. The machining you did here obviously didn't require any lube and I was wondering why not? Slow speeds and carbide? Btw, I might have become a little red faced from hearing the "s" word but I'll try to work through it. I was not accustomed to hearing such language in my old occupation. (-; Cheers! Bob
Bob Horton Hi Bob, Its actually the opposite. High speeds and carbide. For many operations coolant is actually detrimental. It can fracture the red hot tip of the insert. Dry machining is really nice if your inserts and process can handle it. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
15:22 - " Yes, we are going to tighten the $chitt out of these - 'scuse my French there." That is O.K. Mild expletives are very necessary for emphasis in crucial situations such as this. One of those counterweights going ballistic would likely provoke really profound obscenities.
Andrew G. Whitaker had a part come out of the lathe one time you should have heard the words expressed by me and the other operators when it flew by not a very pleasant day at work yes tighten the sch$$t out of it . I learned that that day
Nice work. I make my last 3 cuts identical, yeah planning, to solve for chatter before final cut. Chatter is the devil, especially behind bearings because it holds oil. Know thy boring bar. 0 dislikes, I'm amazed. 1 thumb up.
i do this shit every day. but i cant stop watching these videos :D. this is so interessting, i am from germany and we do something like that a little bit different. ^^
CNC flame-burner here. You could have easily had that hole burned to within 1/4" of its final dimension without warping the piece, especially considering you faced the part afterwards. Also, whoever you had burn those parts did a pretty poor job. Those parts should have mated together better than that.
"Then we'll get started on our boring operation, but It'll be exciting it won't be boring."
Cracked me up Tom. Great video as always thanks for sharing.
Hello again Tom. I took a break from watching your videos but now I feel like I missed a lot. I guess that's the beauty of UA-cam, I can always go back and watch past videos. I'm always amazed at how many tools you introduce that I have never seen before. Not that it should be a surprise, I'm not a machinist, but it's still fun to see you work.
This is the Tom Lipton that does what's written in "Sink or Swim" about passing on the knowledge to future generations, and don't laugh if I'm older than you are.... ;-)
This is REALLY appreciated...
Thanks, Pierre
pierre beaudry Hi Pierre,
Glad you like the video. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Shifting spanner! Everybody looks at me like I'm crazy when I call them that, can't even remember now when or where I learned it either... Nice to see the progress on the etching press, thanks Tom.
Hey Tom, I enjoyed the machine shop lessons on layout, toolmakers buttons, and planer gage uses. It's always great to see those tools used in ways we never had to before. Too bad you don't have a 2" boring bar holder. I would have let you borrow he cnmg bar off the Pacemaker. A few passes and finished. The parts are looking great! Nice job. Thanks for bringing us the videos.
Adam
Abom79 Hey Adam,
I'm shopping around for a larger boring bar. I want to be like my big brother Abom79! Thanks for stopping by.
Best,
Tom
+oxtoolco Thanks for showing us all! One of the Right ways to Set up Center had me guessing for a While when you pulled out the tool Makers buttons. End Result Perfect as usual and Simple Really, when you Know How lol Cheers from Australia.
+David Fullston Hi David,
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
A meaty series and thoroughly enjoyable. It was very kind of you to machine those bearing blocks for Adam's 0-8' DTI.
The use of an added reference (button) to an awkward piece is useful knowledge. Thanks :)
Very nice Tom! These old school techniques you show us are always very ingenious and fun to use. Thank you for sharing all your skill and knowledge with such a good humor and zest!
Hi Tom !
Wav, back to where it all started ... some real machining videos - I like that !
And what a project I loved that balancing exercise !
Very nice - thx for sharing !
Thanks Tom for the metrology lesson and showing us the toolmaker instruments in use.
You make it look so easy, you also remind me of all the tooling I don't have. Thanks for answering all my emails too, I appreciate it.
Great Video... I love the lessons on layout and measuring setup, etc ... You have so many cool little old school items for us home shop enthusiasts to learn about! Well Done!!
Hey Tom, This was a excellent video on setup with toolmakers buttons and planer gauge. Thank You,
Matt C.
Tool Maker Buttons very cool and nice to see old school methods in use.
Tom, thanks for the video.
Great job Tom. Thanks for sharing the info on the tool makers buttons. The fit on the bearings is perfect!
Herb Blair Hey Herb,
Buttons are cool. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks Tom, stuff there I hadn't seen before with the weights and the pins. Learned something new for sure. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Tom,
Excellent lesson on set up and balancing, bearing blocks are looking good buddy!
Ray
This was a very interesting series chock full of information. I just turned a calibration bar on my Harrison using a lathe dog and sure could have used the counterbalance pieces you had made up. I got noticeable vibration despite the size of my lathe. The tool-makers buttons demonstration gave me new knowledge. Appreciated. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Ps. The bearing housings are beautiful as well as functional. That is a lot of hand grinding! but the end result was art.
Jim Milne Hi Jim,
Always nice to see a comment from the big island. I have seen some lathes walking around the shop from that kind of vibration. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
HOLY COW! Ive been running big lathes for 15 years and never knew what those stupid slots were really for!
Idomake Hey Make,
We this is one possible use of them. I sometimes use them to tie parts back toward the chuck with them as well. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Really neat to see how those buttons were used. Don't think I would ever do this method as it seems extremely time consuming I could see that on a much more complicated feature it could have a use though. Always good to know other ways to do something.
Thanks for the lesson on the toolmakers buttons and on the balancing act.
You did miss your chance to pull out your 6 inch dial indicator to indicate it, but doing it on the angle did its job, too.
Great share on the button setup Tom ! We really enjoyed .. Great work ..!!
Great stuff again Tom,
I have acquired a really nice "Starrett" master planer gauge after seeing a video you did on them some time back. I had never heard of them, nor taken any interest in them until I watched that video. I have used mine several times in the short time I've owned it, for marking out. What you showed on this video is another way to use this amazing tool. I'm happy I have one now in my toolbox !!
Pedro...
Peter Spence Hey Pedro,
Does yours have the small fine adjustment knob? Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
oxtoolco Tom,
Yeah the "Starrett" I bought has the fine adjustment feature, I remember your commenting about that & wanted it when searching for one on eBay. I am very happy with the one I bought, it is pretty well like new with all the parts & I paid $100 US for it which I think was a good buy.
Cheers - Pedro...
I never seen them buttons used . It was nice to learn about them even though I’ll never get to use them because I’m retired now . But still nice to learn something new .
Thanks for excellent video and using old-school tools like buttons and planar gauge.
Tom: Even though you tightened the snot out of the chuck, its good practice to stand behind the lathe headstock when starting the lathe. If that workpiece was coming at you rotating anywhere near 200 rpm it would be a bad day. Seeing the button setup was nice. Thanks for the videos.
+arlen raasch Hi Arlen,
Thanks for your concern and comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Great video. I learned some great techniques on these two so far. Thanks for that.
Old School .love it, those old techniques reminds Me of My Dads machining, and the " Dead Nuts on" terminology. Lol Was one of his favor sayings Enjoyed Tom
More progress. Very interesting series. Nice example of using the machinist's buttons. More than one way to skin a cat.
I was holding my breath as you slide in the bearings to check the fit. I was waiting for a hot side plate to cool just enough to grab them! I realize for final use you will slit them to clamp the bearing, but it the fixed side to be bolted or welded in place? I guess I'll have to tune in next week to see how that goes.
Tom Walter Hey Tom,
All will be revealed. Just keep clicking away. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Well that was boring.... lol ;) I really appreciate seeing how you located the center with the button. I learn a lot watching these, because I'm not a machinist. Making and repairing thing is fun, even if it has fallen so far out of favour in the automotive world. Automotive Service technicians have to sell new parts in order to stay in business, but when you work on your own projects there is so much that can be repaired. This may sound strange but it's not getting old watching you drill holes either. Your bits always seem to cut so well. It's not like that when I'm doing it. :D
+Arno Dyck Hey Arno,
They are magic drill bits from Westeros..... Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Enjoyed the lesson on the layout/button! Said WTF when I heard that chatter....thought that only happens to me on a final pass!
outsidescrewball Small last passes are hell for chatter and finish....
outsidescrewball Chatter is only supposed to happen on final passes?! Dang, I get chatter before switching on the machine.
outsidescrewball Hey Chuck,
I meant to change the insert on the finish passes. The roughing insert had a large corner radius that is prone to chatter if the depth of cut is less than the nose radius. Mr Bozo distracted me with bright lights and cameras so I totally forgot to change it.
All the best,
Tom
Nice job Tom..Never seen the buttons before, great idea to have the counter weights, i have to think how i can attach some to my 4 jaw as it does not have T slots like yours, Cheers
Got it all buttoned up.? Cool big blocks of iron. The balance plates are a great setup for that chuck. Us little chuck guys would be resorting to some faceplate work.
Style points awarded... the curves are a nice touch over square.
Colin ;-)
***** Hey Colin,
What I built was basically a larger version of a commercial bearing block. Thanks for stopping by.
Best,
Tom
Well, that was boring! The bore center locating and setup was insightful. I have to go find the counter weigh thingy video, remember seeing it.
Looks like you could use the buttons and the plate as a small sine bar if you had too.
In one of the Dan Gelbart prototype design videos, he shows to prevent insertion binding on something like this you can cut a small groove near the tip of the male cylinder that is being inserted. The grove makes it so the you can get the male part started in the hole a little crooked without binding, but the pin won't slide in past the groove unless it is perfectly aligned. I wonder if you can do the same to the female part that the bearing is being inserted into while it was in the lathe to prevent bind on assembly.
Chris
shadowdog500 Hi Chris,
I have used that trick for close fitting pins and other components. In this case the housing will be split which will create a large clearance. Once the bearing is positioned it will then be clamped in position. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
great info! nice job. a project perfect size for your lathe. thanks for sharing.
great setup video Tom
Thanks
Nice fit on the bearing, you gotta hold your tongue just right...Tool maker's buttons and planer gauges cool stuff.
Good stuff and a lot of useful info on this series. Thanks
Hi Tom, I don´t know if somebody had mentioned it, to be sure, that those balancing weights are not gonna fly out, you can easily tie them together (on excesing bolts) with some wire.. btw, this series is great.. thx..
Hi Peter,
That is probably a good safety precaution. In this example I wasn't spinning very fast so I wasn't too worried. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Masterly work, I'm enjoying your videos. 'bye from Italy, Antonio
Is it possible to drill and tap hole on the perimeter of the chuck by each of the slots? Then you could use a washer and bolt to guarantee your nuts don't escape.
***** Hey Justin,
At low speeds the forces are pretty low. The stud has a pretty impressive clamping force. If I needed to spin at 2K rpm it would be a different story. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hey Tom,
And here, all this time, I thought tool-makers buttons held their aprons together! (It's too bad we don't have audio with the comments. I could add my own rim shots!) Nice work there, Thomas! Your boring wasn't! I noticed at the first part of your video that you are very organized. You have your own Calibration Lab. :-) Pretty tasty stuff there! Thanks for sharing your "boring" work and video!
Have a good one!
Oxen Dave
Swarf Rat Hey Dave,
Thanks for the dose of whit and commentary.
Best,
Tom
Hey Tom, What ever happened to the etching press project? I for one would love to see more of it, even see it finished and tested! All the best, Matthew
Hi tom,
Nice work, thanks for the video.
Jeffrey Miller
Wow, some crazy new stuff for me to absorb on this video...the things a lathe can do will never cease to amaze me. I guess I'll give the operator a little credit too, LOL!!!
Nice work Tom, and I have to apologize for busting up laughing when that little 20 thou finish pass chattered on you...hard to believe after all of that you found the "chatter zone" on the last pass. I don't know why it made me laugh either, I must love irony? At least you chuckled too so I didn't feel like a monster :D
Thanks for sharing all of that great info with us, Aloha...Chuck
Knolltop Farms Hey Chuck,
Always nice to see a comment from out in the valley. I had planned to change the insert for a finishing geometry but plumb forgot. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Love old school, mainly because of limited tooling, etc.
Hello Tom, Great video. Question please, why is it that you Yanks never seem to use a carriage stop when boring or turning towards the chuck. Good safety feature to ensure your tool misses the chuck jaws. Other contributors such as Tom's Techniques use a Plunger type Dial Gauge to come to a set length / depth, not reliable as you can easily go past your intended setting. Here in the UK we use carriage stops, either solid or with an adjustable screw.
Dave Ticehurst Hi Dave,
Well if you have done a lot of machining carriage stops are actually a pain in the neck. They always seem to be in the way and you have to use a wrench to unclamp the things and move them. With the DRO or an indicator its easy enough to stop where you want to. I don't think anybody in their right mind comes up hard against a carriage stop so functionally what is the difference. If you need the safety net of a hard stop for some special thing then fine. The other problem I have seen is when they move. You can't actually tell if they scoot along the ways by bumping them. With the DRO or indicator method you can easily see when you have moved past your set point. Hope that helps. Thanks for the comment. Good observation.
Cheers,
Tom
great work mate , enjoy your vids. thanks
How did you go about setting and controlling the depth of travel in detail, since you were (or seemed) flush tight against the jaws on the back of the bore. I know you have a DRO, but do you set it til you start hearing the cutter rattle against the jaws? it did seem to cut the bore flush all the way without leaving the smallest lip. thanks for great show again. Cheers.
Flip de boer Hey Flip,
There was a small space behind the part. It was about a millimeter beyond the back of the part. I just wanted to be sure I didn't over penetrate and bump the chuck jaw. I used the DRO to determine where I was in relation to the chuck jaw. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
love the method, nice work!
So you have to subtract the radius of the button from the dimension of your gauge pile, right?
I had to counter weight a boring job I did on a face plate. Not the pretty one did, but is sure did work on my old Atlas TH52 lathe!
Thank you Tom, machinist's button . . .
Hey Tom, good video. I'm glad you are continuing with this project. Hey, what kind of editing program do you use for your vid's?
Nik C. Colyer Hi Nik,
I switched to Power Director 12 a while back. After a little learning curve I like it. I got it on sale for $70. Its much faster than Windows live movie maker which is what I used before. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Nice job Tom, always interesting to see different work holding techniques, Would water jetting have given you the option for a larger bore cut-out without distortion? or would it have been to cost prohibitive.
rchopp Hi Randy,
Waterjet on steel this thick is pretty slow. My steel supplier offers oxy fuel burning as well as material sales. Not that many WJ cutting outfits stock much material. You are correct that I could have gotten closer to final size that way. It only took a half hour or so to remove the extra material in the bores. Thanks for the comment and good question.
Cheers,
Tom
Hey Tom.. Ya could perhaps stick a couple of huge cable ties around the chuck to help prevent any T-NUT escapage :)
***** John... my son lost the bottom alternator bolt on his '93 Nissan 240SX. It showed up on my door step, 2000 miles later.... with some heavy duty zip ties hold it in place. Just amazing! He also discovered RED locktite doesn't work on exhaust flange bolts.
I am watching this one for the third time and those tool makers buttons are great.
Just thinking: In case it has to be precise you have to take care that that tackwelded flatbar remains flat on the workpiece, otherwise the toolmakers button will be at an angle with the centerline of the bores you want to machine.
It may even be necessary to clean machine that flatbar I suppose?
Hi Jan,
You are quite right. If the button is at an angle it might give a false reading. In this case it didn't matter but if you were doing something really fussy it would affect the end result. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom, inspite of surface plate and gauge blocks, if the surface of that little bar in center is not perp. to the rest, where is the precision then. All the best.
Your a master, and I'm certain I either saw it in one of your video's or Kieth Fenner's, maybe in your book. But I was wondering if there was a reason you didn't put a sacrificial plate behind the part to make it so you didn't need to be so accurate on boring depth and not hit your jaws? Not enough part engagement for the size remaining? Regardless, thanks for another great video.
David Finch Hi David,
It was really a trivial thing to stop without hitting the jaws. I only mentioned it because I needed to pay attention to not going way past the thickness of the plate. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom, noob question. If it's important to have the two bored be coaxial, should you face the two plates ahead of time so the bores are perpendicular to the plate faces?
Thomas Utley Hey Tom,
The outer plate was faced perp to the bore. I flipped it around and faced the opposite side parallel and then separated the two plates. Those surfaces are not a functional surface anyway. I wanted to face them so they looked better. The bearings are self aligning spherical roller bearings. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
At what point do you decided to counter-balance? And what are the negative affects of NOT running them? I'm sure the bearings in the headstock won't be too happy. Could you just run it slow enough that the off center weight wouldn't have an affect?
SuperSecretSquirell Hi Squirrel,
There would be massive vibration which would make it hard to get a good finish and round bore. Running cutting tools too slowly is a problem for finishes and holding size as well. Its not difficult. It actually doesn't take long to set up unless your filming and yapping about it. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom,
your comments on the flame cutting make a lot of sense. what are your thoughts on having a piece that thick cut using a water jet?
i'm tinkering with the thought of investing in one in the future, at the moment the cost is a little scary.
cheers
mike
HolzMichel Hi Mike,
Waterjets are not that efficient on steel this thick. My supplier offers turn key material and cutting. Most WJ vendors do not stock huge amounts of material. The waterjet shines in its ability to cut nearly anything. Typically the service is sold as cutting only but some vendors offer materials as well. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
No idea how this etching press is going to look like and I'm way behind you on experience (on a different planet), but I'm curious where the load is located on the bearing? I'm asking as I assumed it's on the inner ring, which normally means press fitting the inner part (shaft) and leaving the outer race as a loose fit (or transitional). Unless I got something mixed up, which is of course possible.
Also am I correct to think the housing split + bolt will have to be done with some sort of spacer so not to crush the outer race and will require a positive locking mechanism to stay put without undoing itself during work?
Cheers,
T.
Tom Jagiello Hey Tom,
You can swap sides that are constrained. The loads are fairly light in relation to the bearing size. I think these are rated at 42,000 lbs per bearing. They will see a fraction of that load in use on the press. The main reason for the type (spherical roller) is the roll deflection and the bearings maintaining alignment with the axis of rotation. The clamping load on the bearing od in pretty minimal as well and only there to keep the bearing in position. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
thanks for sharing, Tom.
Tom, approximately how many passes were made before the final I.D. was reached?
Excellent work, as always. Regards.
MrShobar Hi Tom,
It took a little over a half hour to bore the ID. I would say 10 passes plus a couple finish passes. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
It was the start of press that got me to your channel. Glad you are back on it. But could you not do those curved edges in the Autometric. Please forgive me, don't know what is is not possible with all the machines. Just thought so after seeing the teaser where you made the ball.
Andre van Wyk Hi Andre,
Yes I probably could do those curves in the Autometric. They are purely decorative and the part will be powder coated to finish it. I was not too worried about having a machined surface there. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom things are going great with my indexer a couple this slowed me down but now its on track. Can you suggest a incert for qreat surface finish as i am at a loss, and a cheap indicator that is still acurate as funds are a little low as i had to buy more materials. She came up nice are you going to paint the bearing hubs.
***** What material are you machining? Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hey Tom are plans blueprints available for this project would love to make a smaller one for some wood block print lithography projects I’m working on
Hey Tom Great video, really interesting seeing how the buttons are used, Can you tell us why you used no cutting oil on this job. P.S I've no experience in machining I just find the video's fascinating.
Deepwinter Hi Winter,
With many grades of carbide you don't need flood coolant. When cutting at high speeds coolant can actually damage the hot tip of the insert. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
nice video tom.
great video thanks for shareing always learn lots from you.
very cool lesson there.
thanks for the video
How do you get such a good finish on that kinda steel.. Great job Tom
one4stevo Hi Steve,
At high speed with good inserts its pretty easy. Large nose radii help. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Oh! That’s “UA-cam surface finish”! Adams channel is ripe with it. The camera makes everything look perfect. Those surface finishes look so shiny and colourful, when in reality I know there are ridges from the feed rate, scratches develop quite quickly with handling, there NEVER seems to be finger prints - on anything! Oil never seems to discolour or stain! Lol. We don’t get finishes like that at home. The freshly carbide cut surfaces disappear right before your eyes! Haha.
Tom - did you account for the 0.200" CL offset when you centered the button, or am I missing something?
Great upload, I've always been curious about those buttons too.
Sander VT Hi Sander,
I sure hope so. Check out part 3. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
love the video, were can I get a K& T t shirt
Wouldn't that be easier on the mill... no jaws to worry about?
DSCKy I was wondering that too... I was hoping that Tom would say why he didn't use the mill. Could the hole be too big for the boring head(s) he has for the mill?
DSCKy Hi Dscky,
The lathe has 7.5 hp and is much more rigid. The mill has 3hp and a skinny little quill. The lathe can take three to five times the depth of cut per pass over the mill. Hope this helps. Good question.
Cheers,
Tom
That makes perfect sense... :)
Tom, thanks for another great video! Lots to learn there. Was that chatter on the last pass from a worn tool, too light a cut for the geometry, or just Finagle's First Principle at work ("The perversity of the universe tends towards a maximum.")?
If you ever run short of subject matter for a future video, "Designing with bearings" would be interesting. What types exist, what each is best used for, and how you go about using them in projects...including milling or turning where they live. The general ideas for common types are fairly obvious, but the details, like how bearings are rated, how you find the one that fits a given need, and tolerances for fit are less obvious. You, Adam, and others just seem to know what's appropriate, but it hasn't been discussed that I've seen.
Thanks!
-- Mike
BigMjolnir Hi Mike,
The chatter on the last cut was Mr Bozo distracting me. I had intended to change the large radius insert I was roughing with to a smaller radius and finishing geometry. All the bright lights and cameras blinded me and I plumb forgot. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom. Great pair of videos. I especially enjoy your episodes when you are utilizing your mill and lathe. These might be the best segments yet. One question. The machining you did here obviously didn't require any lube and I was wondering why not? Slow speeds and carbide? Btw, I might have become a little red faced from hearing the "s" word but I'll try to work through it. I was not accustomed to hearing such language in my old occupation. (-;
Cheers!
Bob
Bob Horton Hi Bob,
Its actually the opposite. High speeds and carbide. For many operations coolant is actually detrimental. It can fracture the red hot tip of the insert. Dry machining is really nice if your inserts and process can handle it. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks Tom. I learn something every video!
Cheers.
Bob
15:22 - " Yes, we are going to tighten the $chitt out of these - 'scuse my French there."
That is O.K. Mild expletives are very necessary for emphasis in crucial situations such as this. One of those counterweights going ballistic would likely provoke really profound obscenities.
Andrew G. Whitaker had a part come out of the lathe one time you should have heard the words expressed by me and the other operators when it flew by not a very pleasant day at work yes tighten the sch$$t out of it . I learned that that day
Excellence personified.
Outstanding! As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~
great job!!!
Dd
***** Hey Dale,
Always nice to see a comment from you. Thanks for stopping by.
Best,
Tom
Nice work. I make my last 3 cuts identical, yeah planning, to solve for chatter before final cut. Chatter is the devil, especially behind bearings because it holds oil. Know thy boring bar. 0 dislikes, I'm amazed. 1 thumb up.
Hi Tom.
Just thought I'd let you know you forgot this video in your etching press playlist.
Regards,
Noah
Hi tom, just letting you known is video is missing from the playlist
uao..I love see you at work.
+Magic Rojava Hi Magic,
Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Thanks ox
I can see why you done the video thanks great stuff
Fantastic.
Tom likes shiny!
Bravo, molto bravo!
Very nice.
9:43 Heawy Metal , and prise the gods :)
i do this shit every day.
but i cant stop watching these videos :D.
this is so interessting, i am from germany and we do something like that a little bit different. ^^
Why all that hot chips under the spindle ? That is not good for machine's thermal equilibrium.
I liked the process - I think I would have put a "1" and a "2" on the two referenced edges. Why not machine the outside ? Hum. Maybe not important.
yes, love it - 'yes we're gona tighten the shit out of these' :-) brill
Nice. :)
CNC flame-burner here. You could have easily had that hole burned to within 1/4" of its final dimension without warping the piece, especially considering you faced the part afterwards. Also, whoever you had burn those parts did a pretty poor job. Those parts should have mated together better than that.