Getting back into film after 30+ years out of it and literally starting back at the beginning again. Find your videos an excellent source of information and like your presenting style. Thanks
That f1 16 and all the rest just made everything so much clearer now. I never understood what those meant but now hopefully I can take better pictures. I already shot two rolls of film so I hope they aren’t bad or at least I get some decent ones out of it. I guess we just gotta keep experimenting with it
You just really blew my mind with all of this info. I understand this might be common knowledge but to me that was just a great thing to hear and learn. Thank you so much man, everything in my head just clicked because of this
I’m excited to go try this out. I sold my mirrorless and to get another one, and eBay is holding my funds for a month beyond the sale date for basically no reason. I don’t take returns anyway. But I bought a 35mm camera by accident looking for a Takumar 50mm lens. The cheapest one came with a camera body. So now it’s the only camera I have for a month. Just bought some Fuji Film 200 and Tri-X 400, gonna go try film photography for the first time. The body doesn’t have a light meter, so this video is clutch, thanks!
I love shooting mirrorless, because after having shot film for so long I can now guess the exposure of a scene an instanly now if I am correct. I can guess exposure and nail it about 7 out of 10 times and when I am off, it's usually within a 1/3-2/3 stop window. I really stress learning the exposure triangle to newer photograhers' because even if you have never used a specific camera before, so long as it has true manual controls you will be able to make pictures and have domain over your end result.
@@holidayof I think you should learn how to shoot in manual mode first and avoid shooting in automatic mode. Then once you have learned how to shoot in manual mode you can move over to aperture priority mode that is half automated.
I'm a bit confused. Say I'm shooting 400 speed film. Do I keep my shutter speed at 1/500 and only change aperture according to light? In the example you mention guessing your settings using f/8 @ 1/250. Is that because you are shooting 200 speed film?
Hello! Thank you for making such an informational video but I had a question. You mentioned a shutter speed of 1/250 for a 200 ISO film, but aren't we supposed to adjust the shutter speed and aperture for every shot? And if yes, then how do we adjust the shutter speed for every shot. Thanks!
Sunny 16 underexposes in my opinion. I use asa 400 (trix), 1/500, F8-1/2 for full sun. Then come down from there. Overcast is usually 3-1/2 down from full sun, or F8, 1/60, asa 400. Have used this for 15 years and can't even remember blowing a frame due to exposure.
Firstly Sunny 16 is not perfect it is just an estimate. Secondly if you follow the sunny 16 rule with b&w you shouldn't have any exposure problems due to the latitude of b&w. Thirdly according to the Sunny 16 rule during a sunny day you are overexposing your photos by 1 and 2/3rd stops (not an issue due to b&w latitude and film's tendency to like some overexposure). Fourthly to others that may read this comment: Sunny 16 is 400asa 1/400th and f16 when shooting during a bright sunny day with no clouds.
why do you need to change your shutter speed when you work with sunny 16? you say around 11:20 to look outside and guess your parameters, but the shutter speed is only used in relation to motion, so the weather forecast is not going to affect your shutter speed right? Only the elements on your foto (moving people etc).
Shutter speed also affects exposure, just like changing iso or aperture would. The Sunny 16 rule is that generally 1/100 shutter, f/16, and iso 100 would generally expose properly on a sunny day in theory. If your iso/asa is 400 then you need to increase the shutter to 400 ish as well so it isn’t 2 stops overexposed. Otherwise stop down your aperture 2 stops to f/32, but actually not all lenses can do that. So just stick to adjusting the shutter speed to compensate for faster film. Or else use ND filters. You can also open up the aperture dramatically wider and increase the shutter speed dramatically faster if your camera allows. :)
Ever since i started film photography around 2 plus years ago your videos have always helped me! Specially the camera suggestions and films! Hahha thats why my first film slr is the minolta srt 101 but now I got lucky to get my hands on a nikon f3 body for $175 and Im using the nikon lens that I have already from my nikon fe😁 I mostly still rely on the lightmeter of my nikon fe but this video will help me do it on my own without having to rely on a light meter all the time thank you!
So just to recap ( halfway through my first roll, and now im scared :D) let's say I have a 200 ISO film, so I have to set my shutter speed to the closest equelevant on my camera, which is 250. Let's imagine that I want to take a portrait with a nice bokeh, let's say f 4, but i'ts really bright outside, and my built in lightmeter tells me that the shot will be too exposed. The question is, can I compensate the exposure by increasing the shutter speed, like on a digital camera, or will that mess up the exposure on the film? Is touching the shutter speed always a big no no, and changing the aperture is the only thing I can do to get the correct exposure? Sorry for the long comment, but I'm kind of confused about this, because all the videos I have seen explaining the sunny 16 method always say to set the shutter speed that's closest to your ISO and leave it alone afterwards.
I may be wrong but I’d say f/16 is 16 times darker than f/4 Because 16/4=4 and 4*4=16 Open twice as much, get 4 times the light because the diamater of the open lens is twice as big
When I had a film camera I never heard of sunny 16 😭. Now, this week I planned on buying a notebook dedicated to just digital photography. I'm sure this will help me as well. 💜 Thanks
How do you use Sunny 16 if you are shooting a scene partially in shade and partially sunny? I keep hearing people say “meter for the shadows”, but I dont want the sunny parts to be entirely drenched in light
Sometimes you don't have a choice within the confines of the film's dynamic range. Sometimes you are forced to make artistic choices because of the circumstances. For portraiture, I would meter for the subjects eyes and treat their eyes as "middle grey" - I find that this almost always works, because our brains are wired to go immediately to the eyes and will tolerate and ignore blown-out portions of the photo so long as the subject is intelligible and well exposed. If the mixed lighting is just simply too harsh or busy, I would try to find an area with open shade or, alternatively, have the subject be out in the open with the sun behind them and let the background blow-out, but use the EV ratio to your advantage by letting any distracting background details render white (or at least not present any real midtone detail).
my dad taught me this when i was a boy, i still use it with digital! Luckily i only use old lenses on my sony a6000. camera light meters are not always reliable ! great video mate. I think all photographers should learn this regards Mick
Love your channel 👍🏼👍🏼 So, I have a situation. I have an old Voigtländer that only goes to 1/250 shutter speed, but does have iso up to 800. What do I set the shutter speed to to use use 400 film? 🤷 I should mention that I'm new to this ☺️
The only thing about this that confused me a bit is if I'm shooting 400 ISO film, 1/500 on the shutter, and it's a very sunny day, BUT I want to focus on the subject only, shallow depth. Do I adjust the lens to a 5.6 and the shutter to 1/125? Just the same amount of stops in the opposite direction?
If you open your F stop up so that you have a more shallow depth of field (let’s say F 1.8. this will make the subject and only the subject be in focus) You will want your shutter speed to be FASTER than your previous 1/500 because your aperture is now wide open and will allow in more light. If you keep it at 1/500 or slower you run the risk of overexposing the photo. You want to decrease the amount of time that the film/ digital sensor is exposed to sunlight. 👌🏾
@@DreamRoadRonny Ah I see, thank you. So if the fastest speed on my rangefinder is 1/500 then that's pretty much a limitation as far as accomplishing what I said. It just can't be done on that camera under those conditions.
So how do you pull off the sunny 16 if you have an iso 400 film and your max shutter speed is only 1/300 kinda like on my old zeiss ikon contina ? Nd filters ? If so what nd would you suggest? I ask because im a total film newby and
So you’d want to shoot at 1/250 shutter speed, but this would be a stop overexposed now, so you’d want to make it a “sunny 22” rule where the very very brightest scenes like snow are at f/22, so essentially move your aperture “scale” one across, so whenever sunny 16 says to shoot at f/8, you would go to f/11, if it said to shoot f/4, you should shoot f/5.6
This kind of scenario would require some planning beforehand, i.e. choosing a low speed film. If your goal is to shoot under clear skies with a shallow depth of field, you can try using film that is less sensitive to light. For example, according to sunny 16 a film with iso 400 would require 1/500th shutter speed at an aperture between f8-f16 (depending on how clear the skies are). If you wanted to shoot at f2.8 you would need to compensate 3 stops of light with a faster shutter speed since you’re letting in 3 stops of light with the low aperture. Since most cameras don’t go past 1/1000th or so, using film that requires 2-3 more stops of light would be the way to do this. It really all depends in what your creative goals for your exposures are.
If your question just wants to highlight shortcomings of his technique, ignore what I'm about to say. Get a variable ND filter for your lens to have the flexibility to shoot shallow depth of fields in daylight. Some go 10 stops and if you get a good size you can adapt it to all your lenses with much cheaper adapter rings.
4:34 not really a good example because all elements of this photo are infinite meters away - maybe apart from the left lower corner :) - but good video man!
Seeing that some film stocks are really susceptible to color drifts and the internal light meter of my camera ain't the best one, I spent another 20€ and bought a better film camera with much better metering abilities. I shoot film and digital because I enjoy the results I get and not the camera brand nor do I find it acceptable to struggle with mental formulas when better options exist. I want to control exposure as an artistic feature and not leave it to the dynamic range gods to bless me with good exposures when taking a shot.
Getting back into film after 30+ years out of it and literally starting back at the beginning again. Find your videos an excellent source of information and like your presenting style. Thanks
That f1 16 and all the rest just made everything so much clearer now. I never understood what those meant but now hopefully I can take better pictures. I already shot two rolls of film so I hope they aren’t bad or at least I get some decent ones out of it. I guess we just gotta keep experimenting with it
You just really blew my mind with all of this info. I understand this might be common knowledge but to me that was just a great thing to hear and learn. Thank you so much man, everything in my head just clicked because of this
I’m excited to go try this out. I sold my mirrorless and to get another one, and eBay is holding my funds for a month beyond the sale date for basically no reason. I don’t take returns anyway. But I bought a 35mm camera by accident looking for a Takumar 50mm lens. The cheapest one came with a camera body. So now it’s the only camera I have for a month. Just bought some Fuji Film 200 and Tri-X 400, gonna go try film photography for the first time. The body doesn’t have a light meter, so this video is clutch, thanks!
I love shooting mirrorless, because after having shot film for so long I can now guess the exposure of a scene an instanly now if I am correct. I can guess exposure and nail it about 7 out of 10 times and when I am off, it's usually within a 1/3-2/3 stop window. I really stress learning the exposure triangle to newer photograhers' because even if you have never used a specific camera before, so long as it has true manual controls you will be able to make pictures and have domain over your end result.
thanks man! i've got into film photography recently and i find this video really useful! gonna try out the sunny 16, so i hope it turns out great!
Tip: Don't worry about getting your exposure perfect because with Sunny 16 it is not possible. Just try to get your exposure within +1 / -1 stops.
So would you recommend just shooting on automatic & not worry about setting shutter speed?
@@holidayof I think you should learn how to shoot in manual mode first and avoid shooting in automatic mode.
Then once you have learned how to shoot in manual mode you can move over to aperture priority mode that is half automated.
got my K1000 and your video was extremely helpful!
I'm a bit confused. Say I'm shooting 400 speed film. Do I keep my shutter speed at 1/500 and only change aperture according to light? In the example you mention guessing your settings using f/8 @ 1/250. Is that because you are shooting 200 speed film?
Hello! Thank you for making such an informational video but I had a question. You mentioned a shutter speed of 1/250 for a 200 ISO film, but aren't we supposed to adjust the shutter speed and aperture for every shot? And if yes, then how do we adjust the shutter speed for every shot. Thanks!
Shoutout to the rice cooker, nice vocals
Sunny 16 underexposes in my opinion. I use asa 400 (trix), 1/500, F8-1/2 for full sun. Then come down from there. Overcast is usually 3-1/2 down from full sun, or F8, 1/60, asa 400.
Have used this for 15 years and can't even remember blowing a frame due to exposure.
Firstly Sunny 16 is not perfect it is just an estimate.
Secondly if you follow the sunny 16 rule with b&w you shouldn't have any exposure problems due to the latitude of b&w.
Thirdly according to the Sunny 16 rule during a sunny day you are overexposing your photos by 1 and 2/3rd stops (not an issue due to b&w latitude and film's tendency to like some overexposure).
Fourthly to others that may read this comment: Sunny 16 is 400asa 1/400th and f16 when shooting during a bright sunny day with no clouds.
Thanks man! Got my first analog and never been much into photography so this is valid info!!
why do you need to change your shutter speed when you work with sunny 16? you say around 11:20 to look outside and guess your parameters, but the shutter speed is only used in relation to motion, so the weather forecast is not going to affect your shutter speed right? Only the elements on your foto (moving people etc).
Shutter speed also affects exposure, just like changing iso or aperture would. The Sunny 16 rule is that generally 1/100 shutter, f/16, and iso 100 would generally expose properly on a sunny day in theory. If your iso/asa is 400 then you need to increase the shutter to 400 ish as well so it isn’t 2 stops overexposed. Otherwise stop down your aperture 2 stops to f/32, but actually not all lenses can do that. So just stick to adjusting the shutter speed to compensate for faster film. Or else use ND filters. You can also open up the aperture dramatically wider and increase the shutter speed dramatically faster if your camera allows. :)
Ever since i started film photography around 2 plus years ago your videos have always helped me! Specially the camera suggestions and films! Hahha thats why my first film slr is the minolta srt 101 but now I got lucky to get my hands on a nikon f3 body for $175 and Im using the nikon lens that I have already from my nikon fe😁 I mostly still rely on the lightmeter of my nikon fe but this video will help me do it on my own without having to rely on a light meter all the time thank you!
Your videos have helped me out with starting out film photography! Great videos and thanks for inspiring me to get into film photography!
Great video! I can't wait to put into practice your tips
I always come back to this video for a refresher. Thanks!
if the light meter suggests to put in Auto is that okay to play it safe?
So do you never change the shutter speed then? Only the aperture?
So just to recap ( halfway through my first roll, and now im scared :D) let's say I have a 200 ISO film, so I have to set my shutter speed to the closest equelevant on my camera, which is 250.
Let's imagine that I want to take a portrait with a nice bokeh, let's say f 4, but i'ts really bright outside, and my built in lightmeter tells me that the shot will be too exposed.
The question is, can I compensate the exposure by increasing the shutter speed, like on a digital camera, or will that mess up the exposure on the film? Is touching the shutter speed always a big no no, and changing the aperture is the only thing I can do to get the correct exposure?
Sorry for the long comment, but I'm kind of confused about this, because all the videos I have seen explaining the sunny 16 method always say to set the shutter speed that's closest to your ISO and leave it alone afterwards.
I may be wrong but I’d say
f/16 is 16 times darker than f/4
Because 16/4=4 and 4*4=16
Open twice as much, get 4 times the light because the diamater of the open lens is twice as big
When I had a film camera I never heard of sunny 16 😭. Now, this week I planned on buying a notebook dedicated to just digital photography. I'm sure this will help me as well. 💜 Thanks
Very helpful overview - thanks!!
Trying to learn how to shoot film on an Argus C3 and a Minolta HiMatic 7s (50’s-60’s) and oml I have so much to learn apparently lol
I’m not sure if my light meter is correct (my first roll of film) so I’m really hoping it all comes out ok.
Perfect guidance and explanation!
How do you use Sunny 16 if you are shooting a scene partially in shade and partially sunny? I keep hearing people say “meter for the shadows”, but I dont want the sunny parts to be entirely drenched in light
Sometimes you don't have a choice within the confines of the film's dynamic range. Sometimes you are forced to make artistic choices because of the circumstances. For portraiture, I would meter for the subjects eyes and treat their eyes as "middle grey" - I find that this almost always works, because our brains are wired to go immediately to the eyes and will tolerate and ignore blown-out portions of the photo so long as the subject is intelligible and well exposed. If the mixed lighting is just simply too harsh or busy, I would try to find an area with open shade or, alternatively, have the subject be out in the open with the sun behind them and let the background blow-out, but use the EV ratio to your advantage by letting any distracting background details render white (or at least not present any real midtone detail).
my dad taught me this when i was a boy, i still use it with digital! Luckily i only use old lenses on my sony a6000. camera light meters are not always reliable ! great video mate. I think all photographers should learn this regards Mick
Gr8 video - thx!!
Very well explained man, nice video.
Love your channel 👍🏼👍🏼
So, I have a situation. I have an old Voigtländer that only goes to 1/250 shutter speed, but does have iso up to 800.
What do I set the shutter speed to to use use 400 film? 🤷
I should mention that I'm new to this ☺️
1/250 ss + 800 iso equal with 1/125ss + 400 iso
Both will produce same level of exposure
Thank you this helped a lot!!!
G’day mate, is there a chance you can share some of your valuable thoughts on Ricoh KR - 10 please!
folks
The rice cooker made me think i was burning down my house
Amazing video, Thank you 🙏
So dont change the shutterspeed just keep it relative to the iso
The only thing about this that confused me a bit is if I'm shooting 400 ISO film, 1/500 on the shutter, and it's a very sunny day, BUT I want to focus on the subject only, shallow depth. Do I adjust the lens to a 5.6 and the shutter to 1/125? Just the same amount of stops in the opposite direction?
If you open your F stop up so that you have a more shallow depth of field (let’s say F 1.8. this will make the subject and only the subject be in focus)
You will want your shutter speed to be FASTER than your previous 1/500 because your aperture is now wide open and will allow in more light. If you keep it at 1/500 or slower you run the risk of overexposing the photo.
You want to decrease the amount of time that the film/ digital sensor is exposed to sunlight. 👌🏾
@@DreamRoadRonny Ah I see, thank you. So if the fastest speed on my rangefinder is 1/500 then that's pretty much a limitation as far as accomplishing what I said. It just can't be done on that camera under those conditions.
@@JaeHimselfyou could always get an ND filter too
So how do you pull off the sunny 16 if you have an iso 400 film and your max shutter speed is only 1/300 kinda like on my old zeiss ikon contina ? Nd filters ? If so what nd would you suggest? I ask because im a total film newby and
So you’d want to shoot at 1/250 shutter speed, but this would be a stop overexposed now, so you’d want to make it a “sunny 22” rule where the very very brightest scenes like snow are at f/22, so essentially move your aperture “scale” one across, so whenever sunny 16 says to shoot at f/8, you would go to f/11, if it said to shoot f/4, you should shoot f/5.6
I don't usually comment on YT, but I took the exact same photo (at 4:35) on my Nikon F3 last summer. what the heck ahah
Great video! I could not explain the exposure triangle (Sensitivity-Apperture-Shutter speed) any better. 😊👍🏻
What if you want to use sunny16 for manual exposure and say it’s clear skies but you also want a low aperture for shallow dof?
I was wondering this too haha
This kind of scenario would require some planning beforehand, i.e. choosing a low speed film. If your goal is to shoot under clear skies with a shallow depth of field, you can try using film that is less sensitive to light.
For example, according to sunny 16 a film with iso 400 would require 1/500th shutter speed at an aperture between f8-f16 (depending on how clear the skies are). If you wanted to shoot at f2.8 you would need to compensate 3 stops of light with a faster shutter speed since you’re letting in 3 stops of light with the low aperture. Since most cameras don’t go past 1/1000th or so, using film that requires 2-3 more stops of light would be the way to do this.
It really all depends in what your creative goals for your exposures are.
@@davidjauregui3569 so for example using cinestill 50D?
@@callumrobinson2258 Yup! That’s one film stock you can use.
You would need an ND filter to go down a few stops
Is it possible to shoot bokeh on film on a sunny day?
Yes, just get a low iso like a 100 or even better a 50 iso, and get that shutter speed a little faster
@@Coffee_break514 thank you!
Shot for the vid
What if you want to take a photo with a good bokeh on a sunny day?
If your question just wants to highlight shortcomings of his technique, ignore what I'm about to say.
Get a variable ND filter for your lens to have the flexibility to shoot shallow depth of fields in daylight. Some go 10 stops and if you get a good size you can adapt it to all your lenses with much cheaper adapter rings.
4:34 not really a good example because all elements of this photo are infinite meters away - maybe apart from the left lower corner :) - but good video man!
The sleepwalk guy!!! Don't You?
2:44 lol the Filipino accent came out bruh
Seeing that some film stocks are really susceptible to color drifts and the internal light meter of my camera ain't the best one, I spent another 20€ and bought a better film camera with much better metering abilities. I shoot film and digital because I enjoy the results I get and not the camera brand nor do I find it acceptable to struggle with mental formulas when better options exist. I want to control exposure as an artistic feature and not leave it to the dynamic range gods to bless me with good exposures when taking a shot.
stop saying "folks"
🥹 why you being like that
Why tho?
why
Stop being a prick
This hurt me