Canon R6 Mark II Focus Bracket Product Photography
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- Опубліковано 10 бер 2023
- How to focus bracket.
I use the Canon R6 Mark II focus bracketing feature to photograph some Funk Pop Vinyl figures of Luke Skywalker and Eddie Van Halen. I show you how to use the focus bracket feature and what settings I prefer. The Focus Bracket feature will create a focus-stacked "depth composite" for you in-camera and output a jpg of the stacked image. I used the RF 100 f/2.8 L Macro IS USM lens for these shots but a macro lens isn't required unless your subject is very small. Join me at my product photography studio!
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I was doing this with my R5C the other day. A big tip that I discovered by messing around is that rather than use AF to get my start point where I may choose wrong, or certain shots especially at an angle are very hard to get the proper start point, just switch to MF and rack your focus until you are safely in-front of your desired start point.
Then switch back to AF.
The big tip is either use BBF or disable the focus part of the shutter button so that when you go to take the shot it will not attempt to focus again with AF before starting the series of shots, but it will start where you left it with MF and then use AF to move forward for the stack.
Brilliant!! I’ve watched many other videos from other people explaining how to focus bracket Phil and never understood how to do it. Thanks to you Phil I now do. Big thanks 👍
Thank you I really appreciate this kind comment!
Excellent tutorial Phil! A superb "how to" without all of the waffle plus, you are the only content creator that was able to answer my question as to whether the R6 MK2 would make the composite .jpg after the focus bracketing process. Cheers mate, you just gained a new subscriber.
Thank you, Keith!
Great tutorial Phil. Easy to follow. Those shots turned out well after everything was done. Thanks for sharing 👍🙏
Thank you, Adrian!
Thank you for the very kind shout out. I think we’re learning from each other on this in-camera focus stacking. :)
Thank you, Tim! I hope you have a great trip with no SNAFUs.
Brilliant Video! Thank You!
Thank you!
Thanks for the demonstration! MUCH better than the old way!
Thank you, Bill! It's a really nice feature for sure.
Thanks so much for sharing another wonderful video like always Phil 👌👍
Thank you, Miguel!
Well done Phil. I learned something to experiment with. Thanks
Thank you, Angelo! Have fun with it! :)
Loved the video, thank you!
Thank you, David!
Top tutorial as always, love thos pop figures haha. The focus distance info is super useful! Thanks for sharing!👍👍
Thank you, Peter! I’m not sure if the focus distance works on adapted EF lenses, but it might!
If it bothers you that 'you think' you are starting on the nearest point or if you often see something in the composite that was nearer than your starting point, you can set the camera for back button focus so the half press does not refocus and then manually adjust thestart point just a bit closer than you would have using the default refocus on half press. Of course this also favors processing the series in DPP4 so you can toss out any images that had no worthwhile info (too close or too far) and (the big one for me!!!) also allows saving the composite as a 16 bit TIFF file for better results when you later go into postprocessing (to make the colors 'pop' as you put it). I consider the in body composite to be a trash feature only desirable if quality is on less importance than speed of operation. If I were hired to shoot records of a thousand bobble heads and had already preset my JPG characteristics for the standard best for the controlled lighting, I might use the quick and dirty feature but we don't use focus stacking at all when quality is unimportant. Canon offers such features for pros who have clients who pay and don't know the difference and realize that time is money. People who want the best and want full control of the results won't use the feature. BTW: There is a trick that will force the camera to shut off a macro series without going to infinity. Put the lens on an extension tube selected to put the plane of focus just behind the subject. Then, even if you set the thing for way more shots than needed (999? - nobody uses 999, do they) it will turn off when the lens reaches the 'new infinity' as defined by the extension tube. If you repeatedly shoot a lot of things about the same size (like a collection of bobbleheads), this will allow fewer calculations and wasted input shots.
I always use back button focus. I understand that you don't like this feature. I'm ok with that. I still like and enjoy using this feature. One man's trash is another man's treasure. I do like your idea of using an extension tube, not for more magnification but to make infinity focus impossible. In this situation, you can make extra shots with nothing in focus because the background is plain white. The camera will exclude those shots during the stack. But, if there are things in the background that you don't want to be in focus you either have to get the number of shots exactly right, or manually go through the shots and exclude the ones that focus on areas you don't want to be sharp and then stack manually as you advise.
great tutorial thank you
Thank you! I have another updated version coming out Wednesday morning!
Appreciate the demonstration. You have me thinking about focus bracketing and macro of static objects. I feel a research session coming on😂
Thank you! I think you will like it!
Thanks for this, Phil. I saw a flower today and thought, hey, what about focus bracketing? Got my R6 out and it didn't have all of the menu items that you mentioned. Mainly, it didn't have composite. So, I got the 30 - not the 31. Busted out the R3 and there was composite. Playing around with it and enjoying it. Couldn't have done it without you. Cheers.
Thank you, Bill! Have fun!
Thanks for this tutorial, Phil. I have been watching your sports videos using the R6 Mark II and will be using my R5 for landscape at Guadalupe Mountains National Park in West Texas next weekend. Coming from a first generation Canon 7D, mirrorless photography is completely foreign to me
Thank you! I hope you have a good trip to GMNP!
I joined an online group this year that has weekly challenges. Last week was macro photography and I decided to focus stack. Even though the controls look similar between Nikon and Canon I can tell there is a huge difference between the 2 systems. I found that I needed to go to a more course focus number between shots. Maybe a function of the lens I was using? I like how Canon combines the shot for you. Nikon doesn't have that option. I'm also impressed with the speed of the number of shots. The Nikon is much slower.
Thank you, Stephen! One reason it shoots so fast is when using the focus bracket feature, it makes you use the electronic shutter, and the R6 mark II shoots 40 frames per second in electronic which is crazy! LOL
Very good, practical demo. Thanks for sharing. Can I request a HDR demo shooting indoors of a room with light entering the windows. For use in indoor estate photography. Thanks again. Greetings from Per, Denmark.
Thank you very much! I’m actually not very skilled with HDR. That is something I definitely need to improve on. perhaps if I made a video about it, I could improve my skills.
This is great. I actually tried it yesterday on a spider outside with my EF 100L macro. Waiting for the clouds to pass and the slight breeze to stop was time consuming however lol. Be so cool if the meta data had a GUID for a batch of shots, since looking at time stamps might slow down work flow along with adding folders. Maybe there is an auto folder feature (didn’t see that on the R7). Keep the vids coming. I must keep this in mind for landscapes now!
I can imagine engineers are working on Focus and Exposure bracketing..
Thank you! Interesting comment. I have several videos in my "landscape and cityscape" playlist where I use this feature for landscape photography.
cool i will tey it .. i would like too see the difference between Brackering and not ... too see it
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing this Phil. Unfortunately I own the Nikon Z50 and doesn't have focus bracketing.
Thanks, Cesar!
I don’t do too much still life photography but I’d like to try this one day though I have to use Photoshop to press the images together.
Thanks, George! I don't do a lot of still life either but I usually enjoy it when I do.
@@PhilThach It is fun except the stein of beer I did when I got drunk doing several takes.
LOL
Nice vid, I tried and got it on my 2nd attempt...😅
Thank you!
Thanks for the video, just curious because I'm new to all this, why would we use focus bracketing instead of making the aperture tiny?
Thank you! Using a tiny aperture will certainly add depth of field but it will also introduce diffraction which reduces the sharpness in your images. Also, even at tiny apertures, usually you won't get your entire subject sharp at macro distances.
Great video Phil. just a question, if you put both figure in, one a bit behind the other would it also get the second figure in focus if you increased the shots used?
Thank you, Tony! Yes, it would be able to get both figures in focus, even if they were not on the same plane. I actually regret not doing that when I made this video perhaps I will make an updated version at some point!
@@PhilThach I have know idea my camera could do this itself. I thought I needed to stack the layers in P/S so I will be having a go thanks to you👍
Thank you!
Thanks for the great video! Is it combining the pictures only in JPEG? Or the RAW Option is also available?
The combined pictures will be a JPEG, even if you are shooting raw, but it also saves all of the images that it makes in raw. Thank you!
@@PhilThach Thanks for the update! On my R5c I don’t have even that option;) So it’s great 👍🏻
If you are focus bracketing raw images, and you end up with a jpeg, are the source raw images retained on the camera in case you would want to take them to a computer later and stack them using software such as Zerene Stacker or Helicon Focus?
Yes, it saves all the original files as raw.
Quick question Phil: In this instance, with the focal plane kind of being the same as opposed to say, a flower slanted away from or towards the camera, do you think f/8,9,or 10 would've given you a pretty sharp image as if you focus stacked? Probably not huh? (I pulled the trigger on upgrading from the EOS R to the R5, it should be here in about a week.)
Yes, in this example, I didn’t really present a difficult stack. And a small aperture could have gotten pretty close. I have a couple of other videos that show a much more difficult example. I think the original R5 will do focus bracketing, but it does not make a depth composite in camera. you can use the individual files to your own in third-party software.
@@PhilThach I'm relatively new to focus stacking/bracketing, what is a "depth composite in camera?" I use ACR and Photoshop for all my image editing.
Is in-camera focus image stacking available on R5 also?
I think the R5 will take the shots, but it won’t stack in camera.
How about with flash?
Does not work with flash.
@@PhilThach so in the wild, if shooting insects with flash, what can we do?