Sorry in advance, but this will be a long winded comment/ question. I have owned a Rinnai RL94 for 7 years. I have had issues with it not producing continuous hot water in the first year. I kept getting a Code 10 so I searched UA-cam and searched for solutions. I found many suggestions and tips(this was how I first discovered your channel. Thank you for sharing your knowledge). All the tips helped for a little while, but it would return to usual over time. . I have flushed the unit with vinegar many times. I don't think that would cause a Code 10 to be set (I could be wrong). I remove bees or wasps from the fan blades on a regular basis in the summer months. I wish there was a filter available to be installed over intake portion or outside vent. After the first year, I noticed a black cap over a small pipe at bottom of vent pipe. At the time I didn't know that this is the condensate drain. After 3 years of it constantly giving me problems I got curious about the black cap. When I removed it I saw small greyish balls of what looked like carbon/ charcoal sitting in the pipe. I am an Automotive Mechanic by trade not a plumber or HVAC expert. The installer obviously didn't read the installment instructions when he put it in. In the instructions it states to install hose from the condensate drain to a spot further down from the unit. Unfortunately I didn't fully understand this so I didn't do anything about it because I believed that the installer knew this (my mistake). Unfortunately even from the beginning the person who installed it in my newly renovated house wouldn't respond to my messages after. I live in Northern Alberta CANADA and unfortunately in the winter the temperature can drop to -30 degrees Celsius( -22 F). It can warm up to -18F (-0.4F). I finally installed a hose to drain the condensate and saw that it could almost fill a ice cream pail overnight when it was down to to -30 Celsius for a week (which can happen many times in the winter). As time went on the problem has never been fully resolved. On further inspections later I discovered that the copper fins on the evaporator had become green with corrosion and the airflow was almost completely blocked by dried/ hardened condensate. I actually removed the heat exchanger from unit then soaked it in a pail of vinegar. It partly helped, but only for a short time. I finally ordered a new heat exchanger, installed it and it was like new again. Unfortunately after about a year it started again. Recently after removing the vent pipe at top of unit for the umpteenth time I finally discovered the metal exhaust pipe was corroded so severely that it is chewed up where it sits in condensate drain. This is probably a result of sitting in wet condensate for many times throughout the years. It is so bad that I have to sit at the unit and babysit while anyone in my family has a shower. I have to shut off unit and turn it back on to clear code 10. I am at my wits end. My wife constantly reminds me that since I wanted this water heater I have to deal with it. Finally, my question. Can this cause the issues I have dealt with all this time? Thank you for any answers or suggestions in advance. Currently at this time we just received a minor bit of snow and the outside temp has reached 2 degrees Celsius(36F).
Fascinating video on venting. Thank you for the explanation - it was a lot clearer than the instructions. I had the tankless water heater replaced (with a condensing unit) & they left the metal (single) pipe for the vent. I don't mind doing the work, but now I have to buy the vent kit. Keep up the good work. You are saving a lot of people a lot of grief when installations are not done correctly.
Mike is 110% legit. His videos are so helpful. BIGGEST of all, he helped me over phone and email with some of my questions. TOP NOTCH. Dear reader, subscribe to this guy. He is amazing !!!
Thanks a lot for the video. But why it is so difficult to take the pipe apart? I need to replace them because of the corrosion. But no success. Anything between the joints to remove? Thanks.
I have an order model R94LS and it doesn't have a vent cover on the outside. (never did) Can I buy just the black cover that goes around the outside pipe? Water was blown in and shorted out the fan motor. I replaced that but concerned that it may happen again.Great videos, keep up the good work...
I am in the process of making a prop to show two tankless heaters one with concentric vent and one with PVC venting. I should have it ready within three weeks. Stay tuned 👍👍
Please add links to order vent kit for vertical non condensing v series. Also what would come off the initial elbow coming off unit (of this install) going out of roof (around 3 feet)
Great video! My question is about sizing. Are all the ubbink non-condesing termination kits a standard fit? I just purchased a v65ip. I'm having a hard time figuring out what venting kit is compatible. Seems to be several model numbers available for different rinnai non condensing series. Thanks
Is an additional wall thimble required to protect flammable surfaces or does the outside not really get hot enough to worry about that? Non condensing unit.
Amazing videos, thanks Mike! Q: Can I point the vent sideways to go on the side wall of the unit? Almost every video I saw the horizontal part of the vent goes straight backwards. Is it only and absolutely have to be installed going straight to the back wall?
Still didn’t answer the only question I have. I have a non-condensing Rinnai V65i unit for indoor application....Even with a non condensing unit, the owners manual talks about requirements for having a condensing drain installed. ( even tho you have a non condensing unit).... they sell a connector with a nipple for the drain line. (Do I need this?!? Also the unit has a capped nipple right on the side of the male connection on the unit that you would slip your elbow on to run it out the wall horizontally. Do I just hook a drain hose to this?!? Or do I need this at all if I’m going directly out a 4” stud side wall ?!? What is this so complicated. Please help.
Did you ever get a reply or find out? I am wondering the same thing. I guess my other question would be is there a problem if I use condensing vent on non condensing unit?
I'm working on a v series non condensing. Cleared the 12 code, working on error 10 now, and the venting is a major concern. The installation has plastic on metal. Hoping it hasn't melted into unit.
Hey! For a non condensing unit...what colour is the exhaust when it comes out? White or clear? Also, if someone walks by the vent outside, is the exhaust hot enough to burn them? Thanks!
It clear and only 3% is exhausted out. The reasons we recommended the condensing units is the efficiency and the RUR unit has a circulation pump built in
Hi Mike, how much condensation is generated by V75i (REV-VC2528FFU-US) running in upstate NY during winter months? I ask because, this same model newly installed in my house is working great but there is zero condensation generated even after extended shower usages. The exhaust/intake is proper, including the condensate drain pipe with loop in it. We replaced older/larger Rinnai unit that was generating tons of condensation but not this one. Thanks!
@@TheBuddylab Yes cpvc as well as centrotherm. I think the centrotherm in some cases is less expensive. Although, i have in in Ma since 1969, Ilearned the trade in NY. Worked the burroughs for 4 years. That was plumbing. What part of NY were in? Great videos.love watching them and always something to learn. And BTW. still working.
For the fresh air intake, is the inside of a garage good enough for air intake? Could I use the existing b-vent from a regular tank install for the fresh air intake?
It depends how big the garage is. No do not tie in the air intake to the B vent just cap it off and leave it there. Call me at +19042385349 tonight after 6pm eastern time and I will go over it with you Mike
Sorry in advance, but this will be a long winded comment/ question.
I have owned a Rinnai RL94 for 7 years. I have had issues with it not producing continuous hot water in the first year. I kept getting a Code 10 so I searched UA-cam and searched for solutions. I found many suggestions and tips(this was how I first discovered your channel. Thank you for sharing your knowledge). All the tips helped for a little while, but it would return to usual over time. . I have flushed the unit with vinegar many times. I don't think that would cause a Code 10 to be set (I could be wrong). I remove bees or wasps from the fan blades on a regular basis in the summer months. I wish there was a filter available to be installed over intake portion or outside vent.
After the first year, I noticed a black cap over a small pipe at bottom of vent pipe. At the time I didn't know that this is the condensate drain. After 3 years of it constantly giving me problems I got curious about the black cap. When I removed it I saw small greyish balls of what looked like carbon/ charcoal sitting in the pipe. I am an Automotive Mechanic by trade not a plumber or HVAC expert. The installer obviously didn't read the installment instructions when he put it in. In the instructions it states to install hose from the condensate drain to a spot further down from the unit. Unfortunately I didn't fully understand this so I didn't do anything about it because I believed that the installer knew this (my mistake). Unfortunately even from the beginning the person who installed it in my newly renovated house wouldn't respond to my messages after. I live in Northern Alberta CANADA and unfortunately in the winter the temperature can drop to -30 degrees Celsius( -22 F). It can warm up to -18F (-0.4F). I finally installed a hose to drain the condensate and saw that it could almost fill a ice cream pail overnight when it was down to to -30 Celsius for a week (which can happen many times in the winter).
As time went on the problem has never been fully resolved. On further inspections later I discovered that the copper fins on the evaporator had become green with corrosion and the airflow was almost completely blocked by dried/ hardened condensate. I actually removed the heat exchanger from unit then soaked it in a pail of vinegar. It partly helped, but only for a short time. I finally ordered a new heat exchanger, installed it and it was like new again. Unfortunately after about a year it started again. Recently after removing the vent pipe at top of unit for the umpteenth time I finally discovered the metal exhaust pipe was corroded so severely that it is chewed up where it sits in condensate drain. This is probably a result of sitting in wet condensate for many times throughout the years.
It is so bad that I have to sit at the unit and babysit while anyone in my family has a shower. I have to shut off unit and turn it back on to clear code 10.
I am at my wits end. My wife constantly reminds me that since I wanted this water heater I have to deal with it.
Finally, my question. Can this cause the issues I have dealt with all this time?
Thank you for any answers or suggestions in advance. Currently at this time we just received a minor bit of snow and the outside temp has reached 2 degrees Celsius(36F).
Fascinating video on venting. Thank you for the explanation - it was a lot clearer than the instructions. I had the tankless water heater replaced (with a condensing unit) & they left the metal (single) pipe for the vent. I don't mind doing the work, but now I have to buy the vent kit. Keep up the good work. You are saving a lot of people a lot of grief when installations are not done correctly.
Great video , thanks for sharing your experiences with Rinnai tankless.
Thanks for watching!
Mike is 110% legit. His videos are so helpful. BIGGEST of all, he helped me over phone and email with some of my questions. TOP NOTCH. Dear reader, subscribe to this guy. He is amazing !!!
Outstanding. I learn so much from this guy. What a pro
Very detailed... much appreciated.
Your the best I would work for you any day !
Thank you very much I appreciate your comment.
You could work for me instead.... I don’t know much, I don’t pay well, but my hours are shitty. Are you in?
amazing video, thanks
A short question. Could you share the part# for the Ubbink or Rinnai 19.5" x 3" ID x 5" non condensing vent pipe? Thank you.
Thanks a lot for the video. But why it is so difficult to take the pipe apart? I need to replace them because of the corrosion. But no success. Anything between the joints to remove? Thanks.
I have an order model R94LS and it doesn't have a vent cover on the outside. (never did) Can I buy just the black cover that goes around the outside pipe? Water was blown in and shorted out the fan motor. I replaced that but concerned that it may happen again.Great videos, keep up the good work...
Hi Mike (@The Rinnai Guy) .. Can you please make a video on using schedule-40 pvc for venting?
I am in the process of making a prop to show two tankless heaters one with concentric vent and one with PVC venting. I should have it ready within three weeks. Stay tuned 👍👍
@@TheBuddylab Thanks Mike. :)
Please add links to order vent kit for vertical non condensing v series. Also what would come off the initial elbow coming off unit (of this install) going out of roof (around 3 feet)
Great video! My question is about sizing. Are all the ubbink non-condesing termination kits a standard fit? I just purchased a v65ip. I'm having a hard time figuring out what venting kit is compatible. Seems to be several model numbers available for different rinnai non condensing series. Thanks
Would the Rinnai Condensing (RSC160iP ) have the 2 inch exhaust and intake ?
Yes it will there all the same 👍👍
Will a non-condensing unit seriously damage a double wall PVC inner exhaust system will it melt it ??
Isn't there 2 different outside diameter concentric vent kits for the RU199IN? How do you know what size to use? Thanks
Is an additional wall thimble required to protect flammable surfaces or does the outside not really get hot enough to worry about that? Non condensing unit.
They do have a thimble but the piping is fine through wood.
Amazing videos, thanks Mike! Q: Can I point the vent sideways to go on the side wall of the unit? Almost every video I saw the horizontal part of the vent goes straight backwards. Is it only and absolutely have to be installed going straight to the back wall?
No you can point it to the side wall, you may need some extension but just remember only the black shower outside. Mike
@@TheBuddylab ok only the black side of the vent should be showing on the outside of the house. Thanks 🙏🏼
Still didn’t answer the only question I have.
I have a non-condensing Rinnai V65i unit for indoor application....Even with a non condensing unit, the owners manual talks about requirements for having a condensing drain installed. ( even tho you have a non condensing unit).... they sell a connector with a nipple for the drain line. (Do I need this?!?
Also the unit has a capped nipple right on the side of the male connection on the unit that you would slip your elbow on to run it out the wall horizontally. Do I just hook a drain hose to this?!?
Or do I need this at all if I’m going directly out a 4” stud side wall ?!?
What is this so complicated. Please help.
Did you ever get a reply or find out? I am wondering the same thing. I guess my other question would be is there a problem if I use condensing vent on non condensing unit?
He explains in other videos, the non condensing unit must be metal on metal. Using the plastic condensing vent can cause irrevocable damage
I'm working on a v series non condensing. Cleared the 12 code, working on error 10 now, and the venting is a major concern. The installation has plastic on metal. Hoping it hasn't melted into unit.
Hey! For a non condensing unit...what colour is the exhaust when it comes out? White or clear?
Also, if someone walks by the vent outside, is the exhaust hot enough to burn them? Thanks!
It clear and only 3% is exhausted out. The reasons we recommended the condensing units is the efficiency and the RUR unit has a circulation pump built in
Hi Mike, how much condensation is generated by V75i (REV-VC2528FFU-US) running in upstate NY during winter months? I ask because, this same model newly installed in my house is working great but there is zero condensation generated even after extended shower usages. The exhaust/intake is proper, including the condensate drain pipe with loop in it. We replaced older/larger Rinnai unit that was generating tons of condensation but not this one. Thanks!
No longer able to use pvc for vent in Ma.
Are they allowing CPVC?
@@TheBuddylab Yes cpvc as well as centrotherm. I think the centrotherm in some cases is less expensive. Although, i have in in Ma since 1969, Ilearned the trade in NY. Worked the burroughs for 4 years. That was plumbing. What part of NY were in? Great videos.love watching them and always something to learn. And BTW. still working.
@@TheBuddylab i thought i replied but if not, yes cpvc is allowed
For the fresh air intake, is the inside of a garage good enough for air intake? Could I use the existing b-vent from a regular tank install for the fresh air intake?
It depends how big the garage is. No do not tie in the air intake to the B vent just cap it off and leave it there. Call me at +19042385349 tonight after 6pm eastern time and I will go over it with you Mike
No you cannot use b vent for any tankless water heater
better lighting pls