Lower Control Arm Replacement .Chevy Cobalt
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- Опубліковано 17 січ 2019
- On This Video We showing The Procedure How To Remove And Replace The Lower Control Arm Replacement. On A Chevy Cobalt
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This is a very good video very helpful thank you.
Wow, I thought there would be more to take apart, thanks for this video
Good video very helpful
Nice video, I was good with having to drill and grind my old video but was too lazy to have to pull the control arm, but apparently it's easy af, good job!
good video, i need to do both control arms on my gf 08 cobalt. wish me luck, its a canadian car so rust everywhere underneath the car
just like my pontiac G5 . WHen creaking sounds going over bumps - likely LCA bushing? I don't see obvious loose parts on the ground.
It don't look like you pust the bracket on correct on the front bolt that holds the control arm to the frame the bolt was not seated.
This is the most detailed video ever for replacing the lower control arm. Great work guys. I am just wondering what are the tork specifications. Please let me know.
I will have to do this on my 2008 SS they've been nocking for a long time.
what is the exact parts number of left lower arm in Adelco brand? Thanks for the answers
How would I how if my 2009 cobalt LT has control arms with the sport appearance package or not
What are the trogue specs
Hey man just wanted to say thanks for the great video this saved me a bunch of money and time since I live 2-3 hours from the closest auto garage, great video :) keep up with the great content.
Did you do both sides? I did the passenger side yesterday and it went fine, but the rear bushing on the drivers side seems completely unaccessible to the nut
Glad I could help
The busing bolt it stuck and won't come out I unscrew the bolt about 99% but it but come out.
The kit comes with a grease fitting. I'm not seeing where this should be used?
Some ball joints are sealed, so don't worry.
@@GabrielAutoTech I appreciate the feedback. Seems there was a cap on the port, but I'm glad I kept asking questions.
8:50 You can see it sticking out from under the joint. I dont know of a sealed joint on any year or make of cobalt
Ended up being a cap I didn't see. Good news when he took for inspection shortly after, they completed the job.
@@fockwulf1 that I believe is the upper
Good video,slot of commercials
Why? Did the Lower Control Arm needed to be replaced? What was the matter?
Control arm itself was probably fine. But it's usually easier than replacing the bushings or ball joint separately. Bushings need pressed in/out and the ball joint rivets need ground/drilled/chiseled out. Fully loaded control arms are cheap enough and quick.
@@bakedveal2624 Was the a steering problem? or car shaking while driving?
@@1cooksnmrcs Shaking and popping is more likely.
@@bakedveal2624 Thank you
i can tell that car is not from michigan.....you would be dropping that cradle to get that subframe bolt out....
How you not stripping bolts just ripping them out and hammering them lol
he put a new bolt in that holds the ball joint.
I was looking this up online and it says on a difficulty scale of 1-10 this is about a 7 or 8. Can anyone explain here? Looks like guy took up 4 bolts or so and the arm came out. Put the new one in and put the bolts back...im pretty amateur tbh. I’ve only ever worked on 2 cobalts and a accord. I’ve replaced a timing belt, starter, alternator, radiator. Just some basic stuff but my only guide used was UA-cam. Just trying to figure out if this is in my realm of capabilities
Pretty easy if the back bolt comes out. If you bust the cover on the capsulated nut it will just spin in the frame, not fun. Also it will sease in the bushing on the same bolt. Again not fun. If either of these things happen you go from a couple hour job to a couple days. Take your time use plenty of lube a few days before you start and pray.
Yes, pray; definitely pray!!!
I'm looking for some tips on how to take this out when every single bolt is seized (: I'm on day 1 right now
Kyle, first pray for God’s grace and guidance. Next, soak them for hours or even overnight with penetrating oil. Heat them carefully with a torch on low flame. Resoak with penetrating oil again, and then try to get a big breaker bar on them and apply pressure working it in both directions, back and forth slowly increasing force until it breaks free. Then don’t forget to thank God for answering your prayer.
I hope this helps, it worked for me.
@@shivur5073 Invest in some penetrating fluid and spray it generously on the bolts. I can do these in my driveway in 30 minutes per side with hand wrenches.
I'm working on this on a 2008 Cobalt. My problem is that the cage around the nut on top of the rear bushing is busted. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get the bolt out? I can't figure out how to get anything on that nut.
Daniel Fricke I just did this on my 2008 cobalt...my bolt was busted off in the cage..too get into the cage cut the plate off in front of the cage with a dremmel tool...it’s about the only tool that will fit in there. I didn’t cut out the whole cage plate I just took a corner off it so that I could get my hands in there. Then I cut off part of the nutt cage too get the old bolt & nut out...put new nutt, control arm & bolt in.
Daniel Fricke Mabe cut the cage plate corner off with dremmel tool then jam a flat head screw driver in there beside the nut then try un bolting the bolt.
Daniel Fricke you can get new bolt,nutt, nutt cage, at Chevrolet dealer parts department. That’s what I had too do.
You can get a wrench in from the back. Crawl under the car
Never mind, the drivers side is fucked it’s impossible to get to
Try changing one thats all rusted to hell. The bushing bolt can be a nightmare. 🤬
No me gustó que le cortaron al vídeo en varias partes
Es Donde youtube hace dinero, para no cobrarnos.